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The Island of Sardinia, including pictures of the manners and customs of the Sardinians, and notes on the antiquities and modern objects of interest in the island. To which is added some account of the House of Savoy

John William Warre Tyndale · 1849 · Scanned text

110,498 words · about 7 h 44 min to read

Period artwork: Interior of the Bodleian Library, 1845
About this edition

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Licence: PDM · British Library Digitised Books dataset db14 (doi 10.21250/db14) marks the OCR texts CC Public Domain Mark 1.0 (c. 1510-c. 1900 publications); text+metadata JSONL release doi 10.23636/r7w6-zy15 is CC0 1.0. Public Domain Mark is a status label, not a new copyright licence. · Digitised by the British Library (with Microsoft). Text: British Library Digitised Books, CC Public Domain Mark 1.0.

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About this book

Author
John William Warre Tyndale
Language
English
Published
1849
Length
110,498 words · about 7 h 44 min
Sections
17 reader sections
Text
Scanned text, read from page scans by OCR; may contain errors
Rights
Public Domain Mark 1.0

 

Contents (17)
  1. Front matter under 1 min
  2. Chapter I. Page about 1 min
  3. Chapter II about 1 min
  4. Chapter III about 1 min
  5. Chapter IV about 1 min
  6. Chapter V about 1 min
  7. Chapter VI about 1 min
  8. Chapter VII about 1 min
  9. Chapter VIII under 1 min
  10. Chapter I about 51 min
  11. Chapter II about 1 h 17 min
  12. Chapter III about 48 min
  13. Chapter IV about 1 h 19 min
  14. Chapter V about 1 h 11 min
  15. Chapter VI about 51 min
  16. Chapter VII about 48 min
  17. Chapter VIII about 33 min

Continue:

Front matter

THE ISLAND OF SARDINIA. VOL. ■ ■ THE ISLAND OF SARDINIA, INCLUDING PICTURES OF THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE SARDINIANS, AND NOTES ON THE ANTIQUITIES AND MODERN OBJECTS OF INTEREST IN THE ISLAND: TO WHICH IS ADDED SOME ACCOUNT OF THE HOUSE OF SAVOY. JOHN WARRE TYNDALE, M.A., BY BARRISTER AT LAW. IN THREE VOLUMES, LONDON: RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET guhlijfljer in ©rtfinarn to fetr |Hajf_Sti). 1849. LONDON : Printed by S. Sc J. Bentlsy, Wilson, and Flxy, Bangor House, Shoe Lane. CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME.

Chapter I. Page

From Parao to Terranova. — Wild Flowers. — The Cistus. — Cork Forests and Trade. — Arsachena. — Shepherd's Cottage. — Its Furniture and Hospitality. — Ambulatory Relics and Romiti. — Terranova, the ancient Olbia. — History. — Church. — Ancient Remains. — Excavation. — Superstition. — The Bay, Bar, Harbour, and Trade. — Population. — Unhealthiness. — Provisions. — Islands of Molara and Tavolara. — The Shepherd King. — Castle of Detres. — Monte Nieddu. — Fastnesses and Wildness. — Suspicious Friends. — Fuorusciti. — Bilchi Nieddu. — La Castania Gorge. — Sarde versus Parisian Dinner. — Mode of Cooking. — Honey, Bees, and Hives. — Bitter Honey. — Wax. — The Bee-eater. — Per secution and Adventures of the Marquis di Cea. 1

Chapter II

Village of Monti. — Wretchedness. — Beds. — Dogs. — Ber chidda. — Ruins of Noraghe. — Sepoltura de is Gigantes. — Ala. — Hospitality perplexed. — The Attitu and the Accaba dura. — Account of the Customs, Ceremonies, and ancient Origin. — Ala to Budduso. — Monte Lerno. — Osteria at Bud duso. — Courteous Stranger. — Osidda Noraghe. — Sepolture. — Festa of St. Angelo. — Description of the Ballo Tondo. — Costumes. — Musicians. — Family Toilet and Wardrobe. — Noraghe Usanis, Debidda, Barile, and Vois. — Nule Quarters. — Death of Horses. — Grief of Cavallante. — Mineral Springs of Benetutti. — The Goceano. — Villages. — Bono. — The Church. — Monte Rasu. — Forests. — Monastery. — Borgo.— Castello di Goceano. — Sporlatu, Botidda, and Illorai. — Cha racter of the Goceano Population. — History of Adelasia and King Enzio. ...... 41 vol. ii. a CONTENTS. PAGE 100

Chapter III

The Goceano Range.— Nomad Shepherds.— Dogs.— Pigs. — Bristles. — Ozieri Province. — Agriculture. — Ancient Ferti lity of the Island. — Causes of Decrease. — Tenure of Land. — Tanche. — Vidazzone. — Restrictions on Cultivation. — Capabilities. — Produce. — " Mercuriale " Sliding-scale of Ex port and Import of Grain. — Tax for the Virgin Mary. — Pastori. — Rights. — Sarde Plough. — Waggons. — Monte di Soccorso. — Monte Granatico. — Monte Nummario. — Roadia. — General Remarks. — City of Ozieri. — Description. — Com petence. — A Shepherd's Baptismal Feast. — Bonbons. — Ca thedral. — Pictures. — Churches. — Monasteries. — Ecclesias tical Statistics. — The King and the Bishop. — Character of People. — Osteria. — Impromptu Hospitality. — Bisarcio. — Church and Village. — Ardara. — History. — Remains. — Vil lage. — Church and Paintings. — Noraghe de tres Noraghes. — Treasures. — Anecdote. — Descent into Noraghe. — Bones. — Ploaghe. — Costumes. — Codrongianus. — Costumes. — Churches. — Pictures. — Saints, Prayers, and Promenades. — The Abbey of Saccargia.— Story of its Foundation. — San Martino Mineral Springs. — Shepherd Guide. — S'Abbaudi Spring. — Return to Sassari. ....

Chapter IV

The Scala di Ciocca. — Villages. — Poverty. — Schools. — Employment. — Volcanic Soil. — General Geological Forma tion of the Island. — Bannari Forest. — Monte Santu. — Bes sude. — Francesco Carbone. — His Epigrams and Poetry. — Buonanoro — Monte Arana. — Costumes. — Stalactitic Grotto near Ticsi. — Keremule. — San Pietro di Sorres. — Digging for Treasures. — Ancient Coins. — Mores. — Festa of St. John. — Customs and Superstitions. — Caverns. — Fertility. — Tuvura Hunting. — Giave. — The Noraghe. — Santinu and Oes. — Bonorva District. — Character of the People. — Ancient Re mains. — St. Andrea di Priu Monastery. — Aidu di Turdu. — The Campeda and Regia Tanca. — Timber Contracts. — Damage to Roads and Forests.— Macomer.— Roman Re- CONTENTS. V PAGE 137 201 mains. — Noraghe Santa Barbara. — Tamuli. — Sepolture and Conical Stones. — Their supposed Origin. — Castle of Ma comer. — The Marghine District. — Villages. — Education. — River Tirso. — Forests and Fuorusciti. — Noraghe. — Birori Idleness. — Silanus. — Soap and Water Nymphs. — Lei and Bolothana. — Churches and Monastery. — Customs of Su Nen nere. — The Sponsors of St. John. — A Novena ; Anecdotes of one, and of Fuorusciti. — Noraghe. — Anecdotes. — Customs of the "Paci"and "Ragionatori." — City of Nuoro. — Old and the New Model Prison. — Cathedral. — Monasteries. — La Pietra Balariana. — Orosei. — Trade. — Calagone Cavern.

Chapter V

The Barbagia Province. — Character of Population. — Fuorusciti. — Ancient and Modern History. • — The Perda Lunga. — Mamojada. — Manufacture of Torroni. — Town of Fonni. — Festa of La Madonna dei Martiri. — Franciscan Monastery and Relics. — Superstitions. — legend of the In visible Picture. — Education and Priesthood. — Fuorusciti and Bardane. — The Fair and Festa. — Genoese Activity and Sarde Nonchalance. — Costumes. — Amusements. — Roman Road and the Sa Sacchedda yoke. — Sarovile. — Desulo. — Interior of a Barbagia Cottage. — Furniture and Stores. — Bread. — Provisions. — Aranciato. — Snow Trade at Aritzu. — Fruit. — Character of the Barbaracini. — Pastori and Vendetta. — Shepherds' Dogs. — Predatory Habits, and Loss of Cattle. — Custom of La Ponitura. — Dress of Shepherds. — Cures of Timoria, the Scanto of Sicily. — Customs of tbe Dance, the Operarie del Santo, the Corriolu, and the Sa Var dia. — The Monte Argentu Forests. — The Mufflone, the Martin, the Boccamele, the Eagles and Vultures.— Su Spegu and Is Pillanadoris. . . . . .

Chapter VI

The Ogliastra District. — Forests. — Rivers. — Port of Por toli. — Watch Towers. — Productions. — History. — An Endow ment to a Church, in 1163. — Sarde Language. — Peculiarities and Dialects. — Population and Morals. — Anecdote. — Habits. VI CONTENTS. PAGE 254 293 331 — Law. — Physic and Divinity. — Schools. — Festa of San Priamo. — Amusements. — Indelicacy of Costume mentioned by Dante. — Practice of sleeping without Clothing. — Early Marriages. — Villages and Noraghe between Aritzu and Macomer. — Gavoi Employments and Manufactures. — Gup punia Fountain. — Sarule. — Le M6decm malgre Lui. — The Altare di Logula. — Shepherd Guest. — Ottana. — Priest's House. — Festa at Noragugume. — Noraghe and Perda S'Al tare. — Return to Macomer. — Story of II Rosario e la Palla.

Chapter VII

The Province of Cuglieri. — Forests. — Settling a Sarde Quarrel. — Town of Bosa. — Castle of Serravalle. — Cathedral. — Population and Clergy. — Unhealthiness. — River Temo. — The Port. — Fisheries. — Ancient Remains. — Produce. — Wines. — Ruins and History of the Ancient Cornus. — Lus surgiu. — Borore. — The Perda di San Biangiu. —Sepoltura di Losa. — Paulo Latino. — Milis. — Dance at the Palace of the Marchese di Boyl. — Employments and Habits of the People. — Orange and Lemon Groves. — Price, Quantity, and Details. — Stag Hunting. — Capriolo. — General Remarks on the Population of the Island. — Number. — Decrease. — In temperie. — Mancanza di Braccia. — Viandanti — Nobility. — Cavalieri. — Privileges. — The Lower Classes. — General Characteristics. — Effects of foreign Dominion. — Ignorance, Schools, Education. — Colleges. — Scuole Pie. — Jesuits' and Monastic Orders. — Statistics of Education. — Reforms.

Chapter VIII

Approach to Oristano, over the Devil's Bridge. — Title of Marchese di Oristano. — The City. — Prison. — Palazzo di Eleonora. — Cathedral. — Clergy. — Pottery. — Fuller's Earth. — Narratives of the Giudici of Arborea. — Barisone and Fre deric Barbarossa. — The Giudicessa Eleonora and her Father, Mariano IV. — The Carta di Logu. — The Embassy of the Duke of Anjou to the Giudice Ugone. TRAVELS IN THE ISLAND OF SARDINIA.

Chapter I

From Parao to Terranova. — Wild Flowers. — The Cistus.— Cork Forests and Trade. — Arsachena. — Shepherd's Cottage. — Its Furniture and Hospitality. — Ambulatory Relics and Romiti. — Terranova, the ancient Olbia. — History. — Church. — Ancient Remains. — Excavation. — Superstition. — The Bay, Bar, Harbour, and Trade. — Population. — Unhealthiness. — Provisions. — Islands of Molara and Tavolara. — The Shepherd King. — Castle of Detres. — Monte Nieddu. — Fastnesses and Wildness. — Suspicious Friends. — Fuorusciti. — Bilchi Nieddu. — La Castania Gorge. — Sarde versus Parisian Dinner. — Mode of Cooking. — Honey, Bees, and Hives.— Bitter Honey. — Wax. — The Bee-eater. — Persecution and Adventures of the Marquis di Cea. Ox returning from the island of La Madalena to Sar dinia, my route over the mountains and valleys from Parao to Terranova was through a continuous wilder ness of forests and flowers, with the exception of a few " tanche " and occasional patches of pasture.

Theocritus may proclaim his native country to have been Flora's peculiar garden ; and our early ideas are by his idyls and the praises of other poets, prejudiced in favor of Sicily ; but any traveller who has visited both islands, would decidedly give a preference to Sardinia. VOL. II. B FROM PARAO TO TERRANOVA. The perfume of the cistus, with which the country for miles around was covered, was so overpowering as to be positively obnoxious, and this species of the cistaciæ, as well as the helianthemum, being remarkable for the early shedding of its petals, the beautiful and delicately white blossoms gave an appearance of snow or a heavy hoarfrost. No extracts or essences are made from the resinous secretion of the plant, as is the case with the cistus Creticus, from which the gum Lab danum is obtained; and, in gazing on the country blanched by these exquisite flowers, one is reminded of the extravagant price given, in the winter season, at Paris, for a single bouquet of this plant — nearly as many francs as would purchase an entire acre of land in this district of Gallura.

Though many of the wild flowers which shed their perfumes in every direction have been previously mentioned by name, a catalogue of some of them is given, not as a piece of botanical information, but as a specimen of the dreadful sufferings Latin words undergo in being squeezed, rolled out, and fitted, as occasion requires, into hexameters and penta meters, by Sarde verse mechanism. It is the only ex pression : for the author, Vitale, when speaking of the floral treasures of his natal soil, could never have in tended it, and certainly no one can mistake it, for Latin poetry. " Lilia, Caltha, rosæ Baccar, Lotos, Hyacinthus, Combretum, Polion, Thimus, Anetha, Crocus, Liria, Vacinium, Convolvolus, Althea, Menta, Phirema, Ciclaminus, Timbra, Ligustra, Coris, Nardus, Anemona, Epithimon, Narcissus, Acanthus, Chrisitis et Cyamon, et Saluina virens, Cythemis, Œnanthe, Holochrysos atque Cherinto, Lichnis, Amarantus, Casia, Melitolos, Purpureique tori Setureta, et Origana et Alga," &c. CORK TRADE. 3 Ascending from these parterres, the path winds over hills covered with oak and cork forests, from which, together with the districts of Luras and Logu Santu, the finest cork is collected.

Owing to their extent, the want of paths through them, and difficulty of com munication with the shore, cork cutting is a much more expensive operation than in Valencia and Catalonia. Seven or eight contractors have at present a monopoly of the trade, but the abundance of untouched forest would yield a good profit to other speculators. A French gentleman in this district, who for many years had been engaged in the trade, and had superintended it himself, was anxious to sell his business and return to his native country ; and from what I heard indirectly of his labors, and ascertained from him personally, he had found the Gallura cork to be a successful speculation. According to his statement he had a lease terminable in twenty-one years, of forests containing 85,000 corktrees, during which period there will be two cuttings ; and on the calculation that each tree produces 75 pounds of cork, there will be a total of 127,500 quintals, or about 6375 tons.

As the average price of the best cork at Marseilles is 20 francs per quintal (about 220|lbs), the entire value of the cork would be 2,550,000 frs. The expenses were thus estimated : — The lease of woods for 21 years at 5000 francs per annum would be 105,000 francs ; the cork cutting in the woods, 12 quintals per day, at 1 fr. 25 cts., per la borer, 13,281frs.; transport to the shore for shipping, at Ifr. 50cts. per 10 quintals, 19,125frs. ; export duty from Sardinia, at lfr. 20cts. per quintal, uncut, 153,000frs. ; freight to ports in the Mediterranean at 3frs. 50cts. the quintal, 446,250frs. ; import duty in France, at 2frs. b2 CORK TRADE. 50cts. the quintal, 318,750frs. ; making a total of l,055,406frs. According to the calculation of the re ceipts, 127,500 quintals, at 20frs. the quintal, will give 2,550,000frs., from which, if the various expenses above mentioned are deducted, namely l,055,406frs., there would be a profit of l,494,594frs., which, at 25frs. to the £ will be about 59,783/. 15s. 2\d., or about 2,846.?. 16s. lid. per annum.

The foregoing plausible statement must, of course, be taken with the quantum valeat of a seller, and met by the caveat emptor of the purchaser ; and not having been able to elicit from him the sum he would take for his enterprise, no further calculation can be made as to the real profit. He states that he did not cut any cork less than 1^ inch thick ; that the contract and rental of the woods are guaranteed, and registered at Tempio ; and that in case of theft or destruction, the district is obliged to pay the amount of the loss. Cork in its rough un cut state pays an export duty of Ifr. 20cts., or ll\d. per quintal, as mentioned in the calculation ; if " lavo rato" or cut into squares 50cts or 4|rf., and when made into the tappi, or corks for bottles, lOcts or nearly Id. ; the object of the reduced duty being to encourage the employment of cutting it in the island.

A quintal of cork makes from 4500 to 5000 corks for bottles. It is only since the contracts have been undertaken by intelligent and careful parties that any regard has been paid to the mode of cutting, for pre viously an indiscriminate slaughter did irreparable damage to the trees. The external cuticle called the "male" bark, only used for the fishermen's nets and tonnare in the island, is not considered of sufficient value to pay the expense of exportation ; and the brick colored cellular tissue SHEPHERD'S COTTAGE. 5 covering the good or "female" cork, is called "la camisa" — the shift. Many of the trees are said to have attained their 4th century ; and an immense quan tity of young ones are coming forward, to be barked when eight or ten years old. In this wild region is an exquisite spot called St. Maria di Santa Arsachena, a concentration of all that is romantic and pastoral.

Several streamlets descend ing from the mountains join and empty themselves in the gulf of Arsachena, forming by their union a deep and rapid stream, in which the quantity of fish was almost incredible. " Our plenteous streams a various race supply : The bright-eyed perch with fins of Tyrian dye, The silver eel, in shining volumes rolled, The yellow carp, in scales bedropped with gold ; Swift trouts, diversified with crimson stains, And pikes, the tyrants of the watery plains." In passing over the mountain I stopped at a shepherd's hut, situated on a small mound backed by woods and overhanging a glen, and accepted the proffered hospitality of the family, as a refusal would not only be painful on such occasions, but have a suspicious appearance. This habitation — a specimen of those made of dried mud, turf and straw, where granite or some other material is not more easily and cheaply obtained — was about twenty feet square, by ten feet high ; had no window except a small aperture about a foot square, and the roof consisted of large pieces of cork laid loosely on each other, with heavy stones placed on them to prevent their being blown away.

The natural soil formed the floor ; in the furthest corner was a bed appropriated to the parents, and opposite, a bundle SHEPHERD'S COTTAGE. of reeds, mats, skins, and old clothes, which at night are laid near the live embers of the fire, and form the joint stock sleeping place of the rest of the family. In the corner opposite the door was a flour-mill, worked with a short horizontal shaft by a miserable donkey, smothered up in a sheepskin cap over his head and eyes. Whether it was in tender consideration for any giddiness he might feel in revolving in his small circle, or that he might more fully appreciate the " grata superveniet quæ non sperabitur" blow of a thick stick, is immaterial ; but the head-dress, if it had not a useful, had certainly a very grotesque appearance. In the centre of the room was the fireplace, a square excavation ill the ground about six inches deep, in which the embers are seldom allowed to be extinguished, but are nourished by a large smouldering log ; and in default of chimney, the smoke having duly blackened the whole of the interior of the cottage, escapes either at the door or the small aperture before mentioned.

Above the fire, on two rafters crossing the roof, was a reed lattice-work, on which were cheeses placed to dry and get a smoky flavor — a peculiar but highly esteemed quality; against the wall were hollowed trunks of trees filled with corn and other stores, some of them literally family trunks, being used as such for their clothes ; and in smaller hollowed stems were cheeses steeped in salted water, while other kinds were on shelves or heaped upon the ground. The household utensils, made of cork, bark, and split reed, were of a similarly rude construction, and shewed not the remotest attempt at comfort or cleanliness. The only two stools, instead of their ordinary -purpose, were used as stands for milkbowls, and the custom of sitting on the ground is necessary, as the inhabitants thereby are less exposed to the smoky atmosphere of the room.

Outside the door were two upright poles supporting a horizontal one, from which were suspended buckets of water, to be softened by exposure to the night air. The shepherd and two sons were at their out-door employment ; and the mother and three daughters were making cheese and other preparations of milk. Their dress was a light green cloth bodice fitting closely to the figure, with a narrow red edging ; and the petticoat, of a coarse dark purple cloth, had a broad red border of the same material. Shoes, stockings, and under-petticoats were^ things quite unknown to them ; but their very absence shewed the grace and elegance of their figures. Having ascertained that I was from Terra ferma, they commenced, while laying out their stores for a repast, a series of questions as to what part I belonged, what it was like, and, as the climax of their inquiries, if they knew how to make cheeses in that country.

Being quite satisfied in her own mind that Gallura supplied all Terra ferma with those articles, she began explaining her modes of making them, and their peculiar merits ; but this initiation into milky mysteries was interrupted by the arrival of a man on horseback, who immediately dismounted, entered the room, and after some conversation with the family, brought in a parcel about eighteen inches square. Having crossed himself, he began to unpack it, and seeing the mother and daughters place themselves on their knees before him, and my cavallante as well as my guide take off their caps, I imagined some holy rite was to be per formed, and accordingly I likewise uncovered. The man, having no ecclesiastical, but only the common costume of the country, increased the enigma of what was to take place ; but standing by his side, his movements, and those of the family kneeling opposite me, soon explained themselves.

Having drawn a slide from the front of the box, at which they immediately crossed themselves most devoutly, bent their heads to the ground, and uttered something, which might have been a prayer, no doubt remained but that it was some patent portable miracle or relic, and my curiosity almost in duced me to join the family party on their knees. After a minute's suspense, he held the box forward to the members of the household ; each of them affectionately embraced it, and this holy kiss was repeated two or three times ; but when it came to my turn, and I refused to follow their example, their dismayed looks shewed the doubt which they subsequently expressed of my belief in Christianity. The object of all this wonder was a small wooden doll's head, the eyes and nose of which were just distinguish able ; the rest of the figure was covered with a brocaded silk petticoat, and around the head was a gilt and silver tinsel glory, with the usual appendages of such images.

The ceremony being over, I inquired the name and history of the tawdry puppet, and could only obtain the highly authentic and satisfactory information that it was the relic of a Gallura saint ; but all endeavors to elicit from the saint's carrier and guardian, who she was, and when and where she lived, met with the invariable answer, " Senza dubbio la reliquia d'una Santa del Paese, — ben conosciuta da per tutto." Perhaps my heretical ignorance had the effect of driving her and him out of the cottage sooner than they otherwise would have gone, for they certainly prepared to start immediately ; but while the box was being carefully packed up, the mother and children were put ting cheeses of different kinds and sizes into the panniers on the horse, which being done, and the usual benediction given and responded to, the man proceeded on his journey.

I found subsequently that it is a prevalent custom for some of the religious orders, especially the Mendi cant Friars,* to send any relic they possess to the different districts ; and that the exhibition and privilege of worshipping and kissing it, are paid for by the contri butions in kind of whatever eatables the worshippers may chance to possess. The persons employed in this occupation, called Romiti or Eremiti, are generally a set of vagabonds, too idle to get a livelihood by a more honest and laborious employment, and consequently not half of the offerings made to the saints ever reach their intended destination. They are sometimes accompanied by a " Zampagnatore " or bagpiper, who makes a most outrageous sonata first in honor of the saint, and then in praise of the almsgivers. With the diminished receipts of this holy trading voyage, the collector returns home ; and the saint then goes into his or her rest in the sacristy until the victualing department of the church or monastery requires another expedition.

According to the expression of the family, " the Virgin Mary would hear their prayers for having given cheeses to the saint;" — a belief not surprising; for their extreme ignorance of everything, religious as well as worldly, their rare intercourse with their fellow-creatures, and having neither instruction nor church within reach, * The opinion of Hallam, when speaking of them in compari son with the rest of the monastic orders in the eleventh century, is almost applicable to them in the present day : — " The swarms of worse vermin, the mendicant friars, who filled Europe with stupid superstition." — Introd. to the Liter, of Europe, chap. i. p. 60, b make them a connecting link between civilised man and the animals in their " cussorgie." In mentioning this circumstance to a village priest in another part of the island, he not only defended his fellow-idlers in the Lord's vineyard, for not visiting the peasants, but attempted to demonstrate that religious instruction was positively conveyed by sending the image and obtaining contributions by its means.

If the ignorance and superstitious credulity of my present hostess were great, her hospitality and generosity were noless ; she soon recovered from her momentary horror of my heretical irreverence, and, though not the bearer of a holy relic, it was with some difficulty I could get away without having several cheeses put into my saddle-bags ; and when my repeated assurances that I was not partial to them at length induced her to desist, she wanted to send to her husband to bring me home a kid or a lamb. She would have considered it an insult to have been offered any payment for her gifts, had they even been accepted ; and, after repeated expressions of her wishes to supply me from her humble store, we parted with a shower of mutual benedictions. " Shepherd, I take thy word, And trust thy honest offered courtesy, Which oft is sooner found in lowly sheds With smoky rafters, than in tap'stry halls And courts of princes, where it first w_s named And yet is most pretended."

The plain of Terranova, about thirty miles square, approached by a gradual and beautiful descent, is enclosed by mountains on every side, except where it is open to the spacious harbour on the east. The Monte Congianus to the north, the Monte Pino and Monte Santo to the north-west, the distant ragged TERRANOVA. 11 peaks of Limbara to the south-west, and a confused undulating mass of hills, to the south, form a fine panoramic horizon. Wherever cultivated, the plain is excessively fertile, and the shrubs and underwood, which thrive beautifully on the neglected parts, attest the natural richness of the soil. The history of Terranova is involved in obscurity, and its origin has been variously attributed to Siculian, Greek, and Gaulic colonies. Its ancient name, Olbia, — meaning " happy," — as given by Claudian * and other writers, would imply a Greek origin ; but a more perfect misnomer, in the present condition of the town, could not be found.

Olbia does not appear authentically mentioned till the year 259, b. c., when Lucius Cornelius Scipio at tacked Corsica and Sardinia, to dispossess the Cartha ginians of these islands. Having taken Aleria in Cor sica, he proceeded to Olbia, and besieged it with a numerous land and sea force. -f- The Carthaginian general, Hanno, having distin guished himself with the greatest bravery, and having here fallen in the foremost ranks, Scipio rendered a just and generous homage to his valor by having the body of his vanquished enemy carried from his own tent, and buried with great pomp and ceremony.^ Valerius Maximus, in a chapter on humanity and clemency, makes the following remarks regarding Sci pio's conduct on this occasion : — " Nor did he hesitate to celebrate in person the obsequies of a foe, thinking that that victory which exhibits the greatest humanity would be the least invidious in the eyesof gods and men."- * Vide De Bello Gildon, v. 519. t Vide Floras, lib. ii. ch. 2.

X Vide Silius Ital. lib. vi. v. 670. TERRANOVA. After the conquest of Olbia, Scipio laid waste the whole of the surrounding country, expelling the Car thaginians and defeating the Sardes, thousands of whom, as captives, adorned the triumph decreed to him on his return to Rome.* The indirect mention made of Olbia during the next 600 years, is such that we may believe it flourished and prospered under the Roman sway, as its proximity to the mouth of the Tiber made it the principal export town of the north of Sardinia. It appears that, about the year 54, b. c, Quintus Tullius, brother of Marcus Tullius Cicero, was residing here — for what purpose is not positively known, though conjectured to have been for the purchase ofgrain ; but the letters between the brothers contain nothing of importance.

It was about b. c. 52 that Cicero made his celebrated defence at Rome, of Marcus Seaurus, the Prætor, against the charge of peculation in the island. The town existed a. u. 397, and its destruction may, with probability, be attributed to Genseric, in his invasion in 462, a. d. ; after which a village was raised on or near its ruins, called Fausania, evidently very insignificant, for Gregory the Great, a. d. 594, in a charge to the ecclesiastical authorities of Sardinia to put an end to the heathen worship then existing in Gallura, designates it as merely a " luo<*o," — a place. In 893, having become a bishopric, it was styled Civita, by which name it is still known in ecclesiastical mat ters ; and in 1198 was assigned over by Innocent III. to the Pisans, during whose conflict with the Genoese the town was destroyed, and rebuilt with its last and present name of Terranova.

It suffered also during the * Vide the inscription on the Capitoline tables, anno ccccxciv Mart. v. id. v. TERRANOVA. 13 wars between the Genoese and Aragonese, from the Moorish corsairs ; and in 1553, when the French and Turkish fleets, in their alliance against Charles V., after subduing the greater part of Corsica, proceeded to at tack Sardinia. Dragute, the Turkish admiral, entered the port of Terranova, and completely sacked and burned the town, seized a large number of the inhabitants while at mass, and carried them off from the church in chains. It was known to the English in 1711, during the contest between the houses of Spain and Austria, when the Bourbon party had several points in Gallura, and among others Terranova. The English fleet was at that time cruising off" Sardinia to intercept the Spanish vessels, and Admiral Norris, on hearing of the seizure of the town by Count de Castiglione, landed 1000 men, who, after a short contest near the church of St. Sim plicius, forced the Count to surrender.

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