England, Scotland and Ireland. A picturesque survey of the United Kingdom and its institutions. ... Translated by H. Frith. With ... illustrations

Introduction

. FROM DOVER TO LONDON. Strangers, Frenchmen in particular, experience an indefinable sensation of discomfort when they land in England. The foggy atmosphere which they have per ceived in the offing, and into which the steamer soon plunges, becomes thicker as the shore is approached. The coast line is confused, its outlines lose their distinctness in the uniform semi-tone, notwithstanding their proximity. The sun's rays do not appear to possess the same intensity — a mist envelopes us as soon as we set foot on British soil. The fog gets into our throats and tightens our heart-strings. Instinctively we look back, but there is no time for reflection ; guttural voices, in sharp and staccato accents, are heard; the railway-servants are directing us to pass right or left to the train, according to the London terminus at which we desire to alight.

Then a familiar language meets our ears ; the Interpreter is repeating in French the directions of the English employes. Silence succeeds, and is only broken by the shrill voices of the boys who are selling newspapers on the platform. The doors are shut sharply, and the whistle of the engine responds to the mute signal of the head-guard. The train starts gently, without jerking or noise. There is a striking trait in the English character which is immediately obvious to us on our arrival. We are in a country where time is money, and where speech is valuable. Minutes and words are economized. The speed of the train increases, the beautiful .Kentish meadows which we traverse at full speed, amid the dark ruddy rays of the setting sun, dissipate the feeling of sadness which had at first assailed us.

The hop-plants, trained on their high poles, rush past on both sides of the line ; pasture lands, in which numerous herds of cattle are grazing, succeed; the soil is admirably cultivated, the hedges are carefully clipped. We could almost fancy ourselves in a park. Yes ; here is a charming little house of red-brick deliriously enfolded by beautiful green trees — now two — now ten — now a hundred houses, each one prettier than the other, breathing an atmosphere of ease, good living, and even of wealth. We would like to rest here • it seems that life in such places must be calm and peaceful, and we can understand, as we admire these beautiful and picturesque scenes,

Preface

. these-graceful undulations of the ground, the name of the "Garden of England/' bestowed upon this delightful corner of the earth. Night has fallen. The train continues its course with the same rapidity; suddenly, through the window, we perceive a ruddy glare, like the reflection of an immense conflagration, piercing the gloom and extending in the distance above a great dark cloud, out of whicli arise, like the masts of ships, the spires and steeples of 300 churches. A rumbling sound of wheels, passing over an iron bridge, causes us to look out of the window ; a sudden light flashes up ; the glare of gas reflected upwards to the train shows us — as in a dream — a busy street, carriages, horses, men and women, and shops, ten yards below. We lean forward to see better. No more ! The vision has disappeared to reappear an instant afterwards, rapid as the lightning, as the train passes above the streets, or amongst the chimneys of the houses, the roofs of which are level with the permanent way.

A sensation of fresh air quickly succeeds to these phantasmagoria. The train is crossing the Thames, the dark waters of which reflect the double lines of innumerable gas lamps, which border the wharves on each side of the bridge, and which indicate without lighting the winding course of the river. On the right is London Bridge, and beyond it a forest of masts is composedly perceptible in the gloom. On the left is St. Paul's Cathedral, whose enormous bulk dominates the whole city, its immense dome and lofty towers rising high in the air. The view is effaced ; the darkness is suddenly dissipated j the train has arrived in Cannon Street Station, which the electric light illuminates with a blinding glare, in which clouds of steam are floating. Retracing its course the train repasses the bridge, runs for a few minutes amongst the house roofs, crosses the river a third time, and finally deposits us, bewildered, dazzled, and fatigued, at Charing Cross Station, an immense "tunnel" of glass and bricks, situated in the very centre of London CONTENTS.

Part I. London And Its Environs

PAGE. Chapter the First. — The Metropolis. i. London. — Its origin, general aspect, situation, climate.— Its extent, population.— The City proper.— The West End 1 n. The City of London : Its Streets — Fleet Street and the Newspapers. — The "Times," "Illustrated London News," the "Graphic." — -The Circulating Libraries ............ 5 in. The Ancient City. — Remains of Roman London. — The London Stone. — The Tower. — Queen Victoria's Keys. — St. John's Gate. — Shakespeare's House . 18 iv. Religious Edifices : St. Paul's Cathedral — The Anglican Church^Church of England — Tho Temple Church — St. Andrew's Undershaft — Stow — St. Giles' — St. Bartholomew — The Prebendaries ....... 27 v. The Civic Buildings : The Guildhall — the Mansion House — the Police Courts, " White Gloves." — The Bank of England. — Bankers. — The Clearing House. — The Royal Exchange. — "Lloyd's." — The Stock Exchange. — -Bears and Bulls. — The Monument. — The City Companies. — Commerce and the Merchants ............ 35 vi.

The Thames and the Port of London. — The Custom House. — The Docks. — St. Katherine's and the London Docks. — Wapping. — The Thames Tunnel. — The Tower Subway 49 vil. The Public Offices : The Postal and Telegraph Departments. — The Mint. — The Trinity House 60 vni. The Provision Supplies. — Statistics. — The Markets : Smithfield — Billingsgate — Copenhagen Fields Market — Deptford Market — Covent Garden Market — Open-air Markets. — The Baroness Burdett-Coutts and Columbia Market . 64 Chapter the Second. — The West End. i. The Different Quarters. — The Strand, and the Actors. — Lincoln's Inn Fields, and the Lawyers. — The West End. — Industrial London . . 69 ii. The Palaces : Buckingham Palace, St. James's Palace, Marlborough House, Kensington Palace, Whitehall. — The Houses of Parliament. — Westminster Hall. — The House of Lords. — La Reyne le veult.—Loid Chatham. — The House of Commons.— The Speaker. — Her Majesty's Opposition. — The Constitution. — The Ministry. — The Navy. — The Army. — Somerset House .

CONTENTS. X TAOE. iii. The Law Courts.— Magistrates and Barristers.— The Prisons.— The Criminal Classes 97 iv. Westminster Abbey, the Pantheon of England.— St. Saviour's Church.— St. Martin's-in-the-Fields.— St. George's.— St. James's, &c. . . . 102 v. The Museums and Scientific Societies: The British Museum.— The National Gallery.— South Kensington Museum.— Bethnal Green Museum.— Tho Museum of Natural History.— The Royal Academy.— The Royal Society.— The Royal Institution, &c 1L5 vi. Public Instruction. — The Board Schools. — The Public Schools. — Tho London University ............ 125 vn The Parks.— The Squares.— The Embankments.— The Bridges . ■ . 127 viii. Domestic Architecture. — Private Mansions. — The "Home." — Family Life . 142 is. Tho Theatres : Covent Garden — Drury Lane — Her Majesty's Theatre — The Lyceum. — The English Dramatists. — French Pieces. — The Music Halls. — Madame Tussaud's Waxworks . . . . . . . . 149 x. Thc Clubs : their origin. — Clubs Ancient and Modern. — Literary Clubs. — Disraeli, Bulwer Lytton, Thackeray, Dickens . . .- . . . 150 xi.

Sport. — Race-courses. — The Derby. — Cricket and Football. — Lawn Tennis. — Bicycles and Tricycles. . . . . . . . . . . 166 xn. The Railways : Statistics — Accidents — Clapham Junction — Tho Termini — Tho Metropolitan Railway. — Omnibuses. — Tramways. — Cabs. — Steamboats . 172 xin. The Municipal Administration. — The Main Drainage. — The Water and Gas Supply. — The Police. — The Fire Brigade. — The Commissionaires . . . 1 78 xiv. The Public Charities : The Poor-Rate — The Workhouses — Private Charity. — The Hospitals: The Foundling — Chelsea Hospital . . . . . 183 xv. Funerals and Cemeteries .......... 189 Chapter the Third. — The Outskirts of London. i. The Banks of the Thames from Richmond to Great Marlow . . . . 193 ii. Greenwich and Woolwich .......... 200 in. Windsor Castle. — Eton ..... ..... 204 rv. Hampton Court, Richmond, and Kew . . . . . . . . 213 v. The Crystal Palace. — Dulwich College. — Alexandra Palace . . . . CONTENTS.

Part II. The Provinces

PAOE. Chapter the First. — Provincial Administration. — The Aristocracy. — Country Seats. I. Administrative Divisions. — Lords Lieutenant. — High Sheriffs and Coroners. — Local Government. — Parishes and Boroughs. — Parliamentary Elections. — Partition of the Soil. — Territorial Fortunes. — Farmers. — Importation of Cereals. — Influence of the Landlords ....... 3 ii. The Aristocracy : Elder and Younger Sons. — Ten Minutes Too Late ! — The Country Gentleman. — How Large Fortunes are Managed. — Agents and Secretaries : A Gilded Existence ........ 8 in. Domestic Architecture and the Celebrated Country Seats. — Alnwick Castle, Hatfield House, Chatsworth, Blenheim, Woburn Abbey . . . . 16 Chapter the Second. — The Coal and Iron Districts. i. The Coal Districts. — Production. — Are the Mines Inexhaustible ? — Northumberland. — The Roman Wall. — The County of Durham. — Durham. — The Cathedral.— The Castle.— Raby Castle.— Selby and Noah.— The Coal-Basin of Northumberland and Durham. — The Mines. — Female Workers in Mines. — The Pitmen. — The Coal-Measures of Yorkshire 32 h. Wales and the Welsh — The Coal Basin. — South Wales. — Raglan Castle. — Monmouth and the Valley of the Wye. — Ross. — Hereford : The Cathedral. —Ludlow : The Castle.— Shrewsbury : The Old Streets.— Chester : The Ramparts, the Rows, the Cathedral. — Eaton Hall. — Hawarden Castle. — North Wales. — St. Asaph. — Conway. — Anglesey. — Bangor. — Penrhyn. — The Menai Bridge. — Carnarvon Castle. — Llanberis and the Lakes. — Snowdon. — Beddgelert. — Aberglaslyn ....... 45 in.

The Iron Districts.- — Exportation of Iron. — The Cleveland District. — Middlesbrough. — The Blast Furnaces of Eston. — Barrow-in-Furness. — Furness Abbey. — The Lake Districts.— Coniston, Windermere, Grasmere, Derwentwater, and Ullswater .......... 67 Chapter the Third. — The Hive. I. The two great Industries (Cotton and Wool). — Lancashire. — Manchester, or " Cottonopolis," and Salford. — The Monuments. — The Cathedral. — The Town CONTENTS. PAOE. Hall. — The Warehouses. — The Manchester School of Politics. — Statistics of the Cotton Trade.— Oldham.— The Mills, Blackburn, and Preston, St. Helen's, and Widnes ........-■ 80 ii. Yorkshire : The Ridings. — York : The Gates, the Cathedral, the Castle, Castle Howard. — The Woollen Trade. — Historical Recollections. — Statistics . 92 in. Leeds : Its general aspect ; its Monuments and Factories. — Ripon Cathedral. — Studley Royal and Fountains Abbey ....... 98 iv.

Bradford: The Working Population.— The Monuments. — The Legend of tho Wild Boar. — The Factories. — Saltaire and its Founder. — S. Lister and Manningham Mills 105 v. Sheffield. — Its Aspect. — Its Monuments. — The Cutlery Trade. — The Workshops. — Forgers and Grinders. — American Competition and the Trades' Unions. — The VaUey of the Dove.— The Potteries 114 vi. Birmingham. — Its Monuments and its Industries. — Steel Pens. — Arms. — Glass-works. — Jewellery. — Art Industries and French artists . . . . 126 vn. An Excursion in Warwickshire. — Coventry. — Kenilworth. — Warwick Castle. — Shakespeare's Country .......... 133 Chapter the Fourth. — Oxford and Cambridge. Oxford and its Monuments. — The University. — The Students and their Habits. — Cambridge — The Banks of the Cam.— The Colleges. . . 148 Chapter the Fifth. — The Sea Coast and the Sea Ports. i. Maritime Commerce. — Liverpool : Civil and Religious Monuments. — The Mersey, the Port, the Docks. — Birkenhead. — New Brighton. — The Isle of Man 173 ii.

Bristol : The Docks, Commerce, Industry. — Gloucester. — Chepstow Castle. — Tintern Abbey. — Cardiff. — Swansea. — Tenby. — Pembroke. — Milford Haven 195 in. Newcastle. — Commerce and Animation of the Port. — The Yorkshire Coast. — Watering-Places.— "Whitby.— Scarborough.— Hull.— The Third Port of England. — The Docks .......... 207 iv. The Commerce of the Southern Ports. — The Dockyards. — Rochester, Canterbury, Dover, Hastings, Brighton, Chichester. — Portsmouth, and its Dockyard. — The Isle of Wight 225 v. Southampton. — SaUsbury. — The Channel Islands. — Jersey. — Guernsey. — Bournemouth. — Weymouth. — Devonshire. — Exeter. — Torquay. — Dartmoor. — Exmoor. — The Duchy of Cornwall. — Penzance. — St. Michael's Mount. — The Land's End CONTENTS.