How I Shot my Bears; or, Two Years' Tent Life in Kullu and Lahoul. ... With illustrations and map

Front matter

I I ■ I ■ I ■ I I ■ LotxAotx, ■ Sampson. Low , Marsttnx, Ji Coinpajty Lutulu cl . J a w ft 2 3 D HOW I SHOT MY BEARS; OR, TWO YEARS' TENT LIFE IN KULLU AND LAHOUL. BY MRS. R. H. TYACKE. WITH ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAP. LONDON: SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON & COMPANY LIMITED, jfct. _3im. tan's ?t?ou. e, Fetter Lane, Fleet Street, E.C. 1893. [All rights reserve!.'} LONDON : l'BINTED BT WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS. PAGE 3 10 1( CONTENTS.

Chapter I

, Introductory — " Fresh fields and pastures new " — Where and what Kullu is — How we got there — The march — The glory of Kullu — A sad waste — A timber shoot in Chumbra — A new cooking vehicle — A novel drawing-room ornament — The ubiquitous tree-devil

Chapter II

The topography of Kullu — The villages— Domestic life — " Distance leuds enchantment," etc. — The men's costume — The Kullu ladies' one dress — Smothered with jewellery — Marriage— Kullu social amenities — My housekeeping difficulties

Chapter III

Tho variety of game in Kullu— Our bag for one year- Small game scarce — The reasons why — Kullu's reputation as a woodcock ground-Why the cock diminish — How they could be preserved — Few snipe or duck — A suggestion for the Kullu duck-shooters CONTENTS. TAGE 22 31 41

Chapter IV

The sad fate of our dogs — Panthers the pest of Kullu — Bold and wary — Nell's narrow escape — D.'s chance at a stalking panther — An unexpected rencontre — A forest-officer's adventure with Spots — Box traps — A most difficult shot — Panthers induced to commit suicide — A lucky chance — The rare snow-leopard ...

Chapter V

Hank-ing or game-driving in Kullu — The beaters cowards — We participate in a perfect farce — Shirking coolies — I bag my first goral — Hank-ing Kurt or Jahr — Hank-ing a bear — I miss — We get three "barking deer"

Chapter VI

We move into camp — The etiquette of Himalayan shooting — Racing for nalas — Our tents — My costume — The chaussure of the Himalayas — Wretched shikaris — We do shikari ourselves — I ride astride — A Thibetan saddle described — Road-mending in Kullu — Begar — I have a narrow escape — D. and his pony go over the khud — Our lively but only camping-grounds — Thaches — The sheep — A nuisance in more ways than one — Their nomad shepherds — A remedy for the ravages of ticks — They drink loogri, and arc well cared for in their cups — Their costume and habits

Chapter VII

April souls — We cainp in snow — How tu wurm tents — Avalanches — An unpleasantly close shave — The times and seasons for bear-shooting — D. spots the first bear — And bags him — I shoot my first bear — We lose her — Such luck ! — Up the Solung nala — I bag a big bear — A glorious time CONTENTS. V 70

Chapter VIII. Page

We attend a native fair — Kullu ornaments — Tlie Kullu intoxicant — Tlie first red or snow-bear of the season — D. makes a mess of it— I get another shot— How we crossed the river — Snow-bridges— Tree-bridges — A spell of bad weather again — A broken ridge-pole — Commissariat difficulties — The rough part of Himalayan shooting-trips— A day's work 65

Chapter IX

Queen's weather! — D 's record — We are obliged to cure skins ourselves — How to do it — We slnlk a musk-deer — Jniake a mess of it myself — An odd incident — The disadvantage of being only five foot one — D. gets the shot — My chance at last— I sleal a march on D. — A hard climb— How I cross the streams — A difficult stalk — I follow up a wounded bear — Triumph — The largest bear of the season

Chapter X

Up Look-out Hill again — Variety of colour in bears — Lost in the jungle — A crockery smash — We send our linen to the wasli — The flocks of sheep appear — D.'s second miss at the bear aud cubs — A charmed lile 83

Chapter XI

An addition to our camp-followers — Our beautiful camp at Dhundi — A dillicult snow-stalk — D. makes a lucky sliot — Another musk-deer — I knock up— We invariably return to our mutton — The bagging of the "mad" bear — The largest bag ever made in Knllu— Up the Pindaree nnla — The invulnerable old lady again — A muddle — Lost— We make a late niglt of it in tlie jungle — But only lose a hat — A welcome present — How we cooked it — Adieu to the plucky old bear*— We descend to lower regions 93 a VI CONTENTS.

Chapter XIV

Our camp at Ligin — In the odour of sanctity — Our Yarkundi pony — Chikor shooting — After autumn bears — An unorthodox Mussulman — After manal — False news — We employ a native horse-doctor — But not his remedies — Native superstitions— We flush a bear when after partridge — An anecdote about Kullu heroes 119

Chapter XV

The march down the Beas— Sungha bridges and jhula bridges — An odd way of crossing a stream— Our winter quarters at Raison — Chang — Loogri — Native dentistry J32

Chapter XVI

Our Christmas at Bajaora — A native gentleman en voyage — An English gentleman's country-house in Kullu — The "hill of lightning " — The royal burning CONTENTS. VII PACE 139 ghaut— A rajah's tragic fate — The pieseDt ruler of Kullu— Magically made wealth — " Blue flints " — Lost opportunities— A bitter wail from Kullu

Chapter XVII

Off to our happy hunting-grounds — Abnormal weather — How do bears hibernate? — The Solung nala again — The largest deodar in India— Readings of the thermometer — A variation of 45° in an hour and a half — Tent-life in bad weather — The gods get abused — Our pony-shelters 149

Chapter XVIII

We lose a cow— How justice is administered in Kullu — The trial by goat-test — Chestnut flour — Great hpat down country — A new nala — A forest in ruins — A plague of insects — Our new post-office — Its vagaries — A postmaster asks for a present of a dog child — The vagaries of the Indian Postal Telegraph Department — A true tale 155

Chapter XIX

Bears afoLt at last— Just our luck — How they calculate distance in Kullu — An uncomforlable camping-ground — "Set a thief to catch a thief" — Up the Chenag nala — D. makes a shameful miss — Benighted on a bad path 162

Chapter XX

The finest view in Kullu— A Spartan sportsman— Can natives whisper? — How they keep Lent in Kullu — A coolie loses his corals — Why he did not lose his life — Iu a snowstorm — " Polaky " requisitioned again ... ... ... ... ... ... ... CONTENTS. VIII PACK

Chapter XXI

A bear at last ! — The man who hesitates — Sunrise in the Himalayas — An Asian river-mole — What be irs and natives will eat — A three days' dust-storm— Housekeeping difficulties — A plague of locusts — The worst plague of all — We decide to bolt 175

Chapter XXII

Where Lahoul is— Over the Rotang again — Fellow-travellers — The pa*s — The life of Lahouli sheep — The scene of a terrible disaster — Women as baggage-coolies— Lahouli women — Mn — Weather-bound — Lahouli pasture — Spiti — Horse-dealers — Wanted, a serai — From Kokser to Sisu — The cruelty of natives — Yak-cows — A nasty bridge — Difficulty of keeping up bridges — Cheap living — We pass a mani pane'— Arrive at Kailing 185

Chapter XXIII

Kailing — Its surroundings — Additions to my coin collection — The origin of an inscription — Our beds missing — Children as baggage-coolies — The Moravian mission station— Its inhabitants — A visit from the Thakur — I purchase Polly — Tlie hardships of begar in l.ahoul— A preventive for snow-blindness — Agriculture — Food and drink of Lahoulis — Forage — Villages — Domestic life — Polyandry — Nuns of Liihoul— Up ihe Bailing nala—An aqueduct — We spot ibex— Difficulty of breathing — The dwarf rhododendron CONTENTS. IX PAGE 212 223

Chapter XXIV

Lahouli religion — Devil-worship — Saints — Manis, chortens — Missionary efforts — The schools closed — Service on Sunday — Native Christians — Delicious bread and butter — The Lahouli head-dress — Turquoises — Ducks unknown in Lahoul — How epidemics are spread — The " mausoleums " of Thibet — Death of the Rajah of Kullu — His wife's suicide— A futile attempt to get over into Leh by the Bara-Lacha Pass — In want of money — A confiding jeweller

Chapter XXV

We visit the Kailing monastery — The dancing-green — The temple— The library — A nun — The lamas life and teaching — The flags of the wind-horse — Prayer-wheels — The procession of the god chamba— Origin and work of the mission — A lifelong exile — The severe winter — Isolation— The missionary also doctor

Chapter XXVI

Captain M has another try at the Bara-Lacha — The bridge difficulty — Bad news from Kullu — We move up to the mission cottage — Surrounded by glaciers and snow-peaks — A call from Thakur Hari Chand — Absurd prejudices — A rainless land — How irrigated — Under snow again, June 5th — Worse news from Kullu — Mr. H 's reservoir — His aqueduct — How cheaply built 231

Chapter XXVII

A wife-beater — Lahouli superstitions — Children of the serpent — A visit from a Zanskari pony-dealer — Sad news from Kullu — Desecration in Kullu— A cruel advantage taken of a cholera-stricken people — The dark side of European life in that happy valley — The library of the monastery goes a-visiting — The evil influence of the lamas X CONTENTS. TAGE

Chapter XXVIII

To the Shakur glacier— The home of the snow-leopard— The reason why we cannot kill one — The rain comes up — Above a rainbow — Mouse-hares — The colour of water in Lahoul — Why no goitre — A Lahoul interior — Lovely roses — Snow again — More Lahouli superstition — After ibex — A mud avalanche 252

Chapter XXIX

The arrival of the gaddis — A public pipe — Their horrible habits —Priestcraft — Movable feasts — Agaddi at the post-office — Thibetan wool-traders — A horrible tea concoction — Sheep-shearing 260

Chapter XXX

A cltdm — Bouquet de lama — Great preparations — A concourse — The Nono calls — He presents me with a snow-leopard cub — A tiresome pet — The overture to the chain — The orchestra — An explanation of the mystery-play — The legend of its origin — The play — The mis en scene — The audience — The women's costumes — A beauty from Busahir — I turn a prayer-wheel the wroDg way — The orgie 265

Chapter XXXI

The start for the Bara-Lacha Pass — A visit to a Thakur's "castlo" — The private chapel — A huge prayer-wheel — The Queen of Lahoul — Her jewels — A dubious happiness — A travelled Thakur — His experiences 28 1

Chapter XXXII

We march to Darcha — Misery — We reach a desert — A fair-ground — A wretched camping-ground at Zingzingbar — Such beautiful earrings! — An easy pass — Tho lovely Sun Lake — The summit— Traders' hard- CONTENTS. XI PAGE ships — Their ghastly fate— A haunted spot— ■- An instance of native gratitude — A fellow-sportsman— Snow — A forced march — Cheated of our meat — An overwhelmed village — Wilful waste — Abnormal weather 292

Chapter XXXIII

Return to Kailing — A visit to the Thakur of Gumrang — The difficulties of succession in Lahoul — Homeward bound — A drunken lama — Agricultural mismanagement — I purchase akirkitzee — Back to Kullu and the world— Farewell, Lahoul ! 305 Index LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Panther Cub 23 Dilaram, Kullu, in Mid-wintek 34 "On the War-path " 44 My Trophies 99 Manikuru Kullu, with Parbatti River frozen over 1 13 Treading the Corn 133 A "Jhula" Bridge in Lahoul 135 Ploughing, Lower Kullu 141 The "Gonpa," or Lama Monastery at Railing ... 224 My Pet Snow-leopard Cub 271 The Last Rest-house in Lahoul 293 The " Suraj Dal," or Sun Lake, at the Top of the Bara-Lacha Pass, 16,060 feet 297 Gumrang Castle, the Residence of Thakur Dtvi Chand

Chapter I

Introductory — " Fresh fields and pastures new " — Where and what Kullu is — How we got there — The inarch — The glory of Kullu — A sad waste— A timber shoot in Chumbra — A new cooking vehicle — A novel drawing-room ornament — The ubiquitous tree-devil. At a time when women have been busy ex ploring Central Africa and the North Pole, it needs some courage to put on paper a record of wanderings and doings, the only merit of which lies in the fact that their scene was somewhat off the beaten track. Fellow-sportsmen, however, who have tasted the joys of Indian shikar, will fully sympathize with me in my desire to recall to them such delights, as well as to place before the less fortunate some pictures of the lights and shades of sport and camp-life in the Central Himalayas. Various considerations led us to pitch upon Kullu and Lahoul as a "fresh field and pasture new."

We had well-worked that Switzerland, that preserve of India, the delight at once of the traveller, the artist, and the sportsman — Kashmir ; we had sought both sport and a genial climate by wintering among the snipe and woodcock in Albania, and with fair results. Now we turned our eyes towards Kullu, as a country little dis turbed by sportsmen from India, and where we could combine a not too rigorous climate, fair shooting, and some chance of obtaining the neces saries of life — a consideration indeed, when the nearest railway is two hundred miles distant. Kullu is situated in 32° N. lat., and 77° to 80° W. long. It is bounded on the north and east by Lahoul and Spiti; on the north-west by Bara Bhagal, on the west by the native states of Mandi and Suket, and on the south by the Sutlej, one of the rivers of the Punjaub.

The river Beas, another of the five rivers of the Punjaub, rises at the top of the Eotang Pass, 13,200 feet, and runs the entire length of Kullu. A mile below the source but a small torrent, across which one can jump, it becomes at Sultan pore, a turbulent river, used, when in flood, for conveying the Government timber from the forests of Kullu to the plains below, where it is sold for sleepers. Unfortunately the water of the Beas, in its passage through Kullu, is so cold that there is not a decent fish to be found in it. It is said to be good for drinking purposes, and is so used by the natives, but as many of the dead of the country are thrown, half-burned into the stream, we did not affect it ! Three routes lead into Kullu. One is from Simla over the Jalaori Pass, 10,000 feet ; one from Patbankote, and thence by the Kangra Valley, of tea fame, and over the Bahu Pass, 10,000 feet ; and another from Jullundhur, through the native state of Mandi and over the Dolchi Pass, 6000 feet, to Sultanpore, the capital.

We choose the second mentioned. The distance, about 150 miles, is divided into eleven marches of very unequal length. We rode, and our baggage was carried by mules and coolies. We put up at the government dak bungalows, or rest-houses, which are provided at every stage. Anything more discreditable than their condition, however, cannot well be imagined. Furniture and crockery are conspicuous by their absence, and they are all in a bad state of repair, that at Sultanpore, the capital, being the worst ; where it should be the best.* Yet a fee of one rupee for every twenty-four hours' stay is levied on each traveller. The first part of the route is not very interest ing, though the tea-estates through the Kangra * I must say, however, that a great improvement has taken place in 1892. valley are worth seeing.

Not until we reached Dehlu did we get any sport. But there we made a bag of chikor partridge. At Jatingri, 7500 feet, we found plenty of pheasants, and there are some gooral, and generally bears. From this onward pheasants abounded, but the kalig pheasant only. When we reached the top of the Bahu Pass, however, we found koklas, cheer, ami maual pheasants. The great attraction of the route we had chosen was the beautiful march down the Bahu Pass to Karaon, through a superb forest. Kullu is famous for its forests. The largest deodar in India is to be found in the Solung nala. Oak, thorny oak, alder ; three kinds of fir (called, locally, tosh, rai, and kyle) ; chestnut, wild pear, mulberry, elm, poplar, fig, birch, and rhododendron (which here grows to a big tree), abound everywhere. Besides these, there are five trees called royal trees, which are under the protection of the Forest Department.

These, the deodar, the walnut, the box, the ash, and the elm, may not be cut down or even lopped without leave. Could but the difficulties of transport be overcome, what an enormous income the Kullu forest might yield ! Government charges on the spot but three rupees for a magnificent deodar. But, unfortunately, the river Beas does not flood so heavily as the Chenaab, the Sutlej, and Bavee. Consequently the difficulty of floating timber down to the plains is far greater than from forests bordering those rivers. Could the deodar, sold in Kullu for some three rupees, but be felled and cut up into railway sleepers on the spot, and floated down the stream, the sleepers alone would fetch from three to three and a half rupees each. In Chumbra there is a great industry in railway sleepers, and some years ago we paid an interest ing visit to the Chatri forest, on a tributary of the Bavee.

The trees are felled and cut up into sleepers, and then dragged to the edge of the high cliffs overhanging the stream. Formerly they used to be thrown over into it, but the process resulted in an enormous loss of timber. To over come this difficulty, the Forest Department, a most valuable service, have made a sleeper shoot, some half a mile in length, zigzagging down the face of the cliff, and along which the sleepers travel by their own weight. At the end of each zigzag they are brought to a standstill by a mound of soft earth. At each corner a man is stationed, who instantly releases them, and starts them off down the next zigzag. The latter part of the shoot is made nearly level, so that the speed is decreased, and the sleepers fall quietly into the river, where they are collected and floated down till they meet the railway, and are there sold.

Each sleeper is marked with a Government mark, and the penalty for stealing one is very severe. Difficulty of transport also leads to an enormous waste of walnuts in Kullu. The natives, indeed, gather large quantities and grind them up for oil. But, as is the case in Kashmir with thousands of tons of delicious wild plums, apricots, apples, and pears, so in Kullu with the walnuts. There is no means of transporting them to India, where there would be a ready sale for them. The walnut oil is used for cooking purposes, and some of the European residents in Kullu assured us it was delicious, imparting a peculiar flavour to be got by no other means. Experience, however, of the odd dishes which old Indians have educated them selves into liking, made us somewhat shy of trying it. We noticed on some of the walnut trees which were beginning to decay, an extraordinary natural ornament, which, later on, we discovered actually used to adorn European rooms in Kullu.

The trees were covered with enormous fungi of a creamy French grey colour, flat at the top and with a wavy exterior, about fourteen inches wide by eight deep. They grow upside down on the trees, whence they are easily removed, and if placed against a wall form handsome natural brackets. The Kullu natives, as indeed they ought to be, are well versed in tree-lore, and can name without any hesitation almost any species. But their supei'stitions are extraordinary. We noticed that they never passed under a tree which had fallen across the road without first placing a piece of wood or a stone on the trunk above them. I inquired into the meaning of this performance, and elicited the following explanation. There is a devil at the top of every tree. When it falls, he falls with it, and is therefore in unpleasant proximity to those who pass beneath it.

In order to conciliate this wood-demon, an offering is placed on the tree before walking under it. After all, are there no people in London who decline to walk under a ladder ? CHAPTEE II. The topography of Kullu— The villages— Domestic life—" Distance lends enchantment," etc. — The men's costume — The Kullu ladies' one dress — Smothered with jewellery — Marriage — Kullu social amenities — My housekeeping difficulties. We reached Kullu on November 28th. As it was then too late for big game shooting, we rented a small house in the centre of the valley and went in for small game. The country is but the spurs and offohoots of the great range of perpetual snow which surrounds it on three sides. There are no low hills, and it is in these spurs above the narrow gorges and valleys which intersect them that the villages stand.

It is a peculiarity of the Himalayas, the youngest of mountain ranges, that they rise so sheer and so abruptly, the valleys being mere ravines. All the villages are built after the same pattern, and laid out on the same plan, and the houses stand as close together as the nature of the ground will admit. Men and cattle herd together, and the filth of the surroundings is indescribable. But for the pure, crisp mountain air, and the delicious iced water everywhere abounding, surely it would bring a pestilence upon the inhabitants. The fields which surround the villages are terraced on the mountain sides, the terraces being five, ten, twenty feet above each other, according to the steepness of the slope; and the principal crops are barley, maize, pulse, and millet on the higher, and wheat, tobacco, poppy, and rice on the lower ground.

There are two crops in the year, one in the spring and the other in the autumn. The houses have three or four stories of one room each, and, as each story, except the lower, is surrounded by a verandah, they present a rather top-heavy appearance. The roofs, of slate slabs, or of split wood, slope slightly, and project beyond the verandahs considerably, giving the house a chalet-like look. The cattle live in the lower story, the family in the higher, and the verandahs are piled with crops of hay, rice, and straw, and of leaves on which the cattle live in the winter when the grass runs short. Though picturesque enough at a distance, dotted here and there on the mountain slope, surrounded by green fields, or embosomed in forests of deodar and pine, and hemmed in by lofty snow-clad mountains, the villages do not bear too close an inspection.

The people are as filthy in their habits as in their domestic arrangements, and seldom, if ever, wash. HOW I SHOT MY BEARS. The men's costume in winter is a coat of homespun wool, called puttoo, reaching to within three inches of the knee ; continuations of the same material tight below the knee ; a round flat cap of black wool turned up all around, in the shape of a pork-pie, and grass shoes, covering the front part of the foot only. In summer they discard everything except the hat and the coat, and when they wish, for courting purposes, to look par ticularly fascinating, add to the former a bunch of the lovely wild flowers with which the country abounds. The Kullu ladies wear but one garment, and have no " fashions." It consists of a gray puttoo blanket. One end of this is brought over the left shoulder, passed behind the back, under the right arm, across the bosom, under the left arm, over the back again, with the end brought over the left shoulder.

Two brass pins, connected with a coloured string, secure these ends, the pins passing through the strings and joining them to the main portion of the blanket in front. Their arms and legs are bare, and they wear absolutely no other article of clothing. For mclas or other festive occasions, they make no addition to their dress — or should I say, undress ? — but that of extensive gold and silver ornaments, only the rich however, affecting gold. This jewellery consists of bangles, armlets, ear and nose rings, fingerrings, necklets, and bands of silver across the head. They prefer silver enamel to plain silver jewellery, and certainly their taste is to be commended, for it suits their colouring admir ably. This enamel is made largely in the neighbouring district of Kangra, and though the work is coarse, the effect at a distance is very good.

The women's poor ears are pierced all round the edges, and are simply loaded with rings, becoming an absolute disfigurement by being forced down by the weight of their orna ments. But what will women not endure for the sake of custom ? — fashion I cannot call it, for it is unchangeable ! Their head-dress is their prettiest adornment. It consists of a band of silver filigree work, with a fringe, and in front over the forehead, hangs a crescent-shaped ornament of enamel work also edged with a fringe. One of their many finger rings is almost invariably fitted with a piece of looking-glass the size of a shilling piece, and they pay particular attention to it, especially if they are at all endowed with good looks, as many of them undoubtedly are. As in many foreign countries, the women are treated little better than beasts of burden.

It is they who carry the loads, they who work in the fields, while their lords and masters sit about in groups chatting and smoking their hookahs. Along the roads the men ride the ponies, while HOW I SHOT MY BEARS. the women trudge along with a baby slung across their shoulders and a huge load upon their heads. There is practically no marriage ceremony. The men barter with the parents of the girl they wish to make their wife, and thirty to forty rupees is the average value of a woman as a worker in the fields. These marriages, if you can call them by such a name, rarely turn out happily. The people are naturally immoral ; it is not unusual for a woman to leave her husband for days or weeks at a time, and when she returns, or is brought back, she remains unpunished. The husband is only too glad to regain her services, and fears if he were to punish her she would run away again.

The number of wives a Kullu man takes to himself depends practically on the amount of land he has under cultivation. The Kullu servants we engaged were frequently requesting leave to go in search of an errant wife, and many visits were made to them by others on a similar errand. The remedy appears to rest with themselves, but they do not mind ; it is the custom of the country. Housekeeping in Kullu was not an easy matter, as I very soon discovered. The people are a truculent race, who will neither work for you, carry loads, nor bring in supplies without pressure. The latter were by no means easy to procure. By the folly of the deputy-commissioner of the district of which Kullu forms a part, the tariff for charcoal, wood, grass, milk, etc., has been fixed higher than at Simla, itself the hill capital of India ; and this in a country where the above mentioned commodities simply abound.

Eggs and fowls, however, were especially hard to get, for the natives are a mongrel race of Hindoos, who think it against their caste to keep hens. In the way of drinking, however, we found no difficulty. Nature had provided an unlimited supply of the brightest, coolest, best water we had ever tasted, mixed with whisky or not.

Chapter III

The variety of game in Kullu — Our bag for one year — -Small game scarce — The reasons why — Kullu's reputation as a ■woodcock ground — Why the cock diminish — How they could be preserved — Few snipe or duck — A suggestion for the Kullu duck-shooters. As may well be imagined in a country of alti tudes varying from two thousand to twenty-two thousand feet above the sea, and uninhabited above nine thousand feet, there is plenty of room for sport. The game to be found in Kullu is as follows : Panther, bear (both red and black), ibex, serow, burrhel, barking deer, gooral, ounce or snow-leopard, oorial and musk-deer ; of pheasants, the cheer, kalij, koklas, argus, manal ; of partridge, the black, wood and chikor; also, duck, snipe, and woodcock. Our bag for one year was as follows : pheasants, 137 ; chikor, 321 ; cock, 49 ; snipe, 9 ; duck, 3 ; barking deer, 7 ; goral, 3 ; black bears, 6 ; red bears, 8 ; and musk-deer, 3 ; and this might have been considerably increased, had we cared to go in for slaughter.