Shakespeare's Land, being a description of Central and Southern Warwickshire. With ... maps and plans ... and ... original etchings by L. Hart and F. Whitehead

Front matter

Two Hundred and Fifty Copies only of this Work have been printed on Large Paper, of which this is No T>nT!\sBinoiKtr\L.youf/Ti.r/ ■ Frank Glover, B.A., "Courier" Office. 1893. SUBSCRIPTION EDITION. SHAKESPEARE'S LAM) BEING A DESCRIPTION OF CENTRAL AND Southern Warwickshire, BY C. J. RIBTON-TURNER, AUTHOR OF A HISTORY UF VAGRANTS AND VAGRANCY, &C., &C ir/2'2/ THIRTBBN MAP* AND PLANS, By John Bartholomew and Co., Edinburgh. and TWBNTY-TWO ORIGINAL ETCHINGS BY Laurepsce Hart and Fred Whitehead geamineton : "TumPiso: Naturane nobis hoc, inquit, datum dicam an errore quodam, ut, cum ea loca videamus, in quibus memoria dignos viros, acceperimus multum esse versatos, magis moveamur, quam si quando eorum ipsorum aut facta audiamus aut scriptum aliquod legamus ?" Ciceeo, Definibus ban. et mat. lib. v.,c ~, " Is it," said Piso, " by some natural instinct, or through some delusion that when we see the very spots where famous men have lived we are far more touched than when we hear of the things that they have done, or read some thing that they have written ?"

DEDICATED TO GEORGE W. CHILDS, ESQ., OF PHILADELPHIA. AS A SLIGHT RECOGNITION OP THE AFFECTION SHOWN FOR SHAKESPEARE AND HIS WORKS BY OUR COUSINS ACROSS THE SEA.

Preface

. In the following pages I have endeavoured to set out a description, not only of those sites and scenesin Warwickshire which have already excited public interest, but also of many which have hitherto remained almost undescribed and unknown, and which will, I venture to think, be found to possess unsuspected claims for examination and appreciation. My great aim has been to describe the various points of interest in as clear and succinct a manner as possible ; that I have never fallen into error is more than I can hope for, but I can, at any rate, honestly plead that I have spared no pains to make my descriptions accurate, and that everything of an historical character is based upon researches among original records and authorities. In addition to this, I have to acknowledge, with the deepest sense of gratitude, the very great aid I have received from those best qualified to further me in my work — an aid which has been enhanced in value by the courtesy by which it has been accompanied.

The descriptions of Warwick Castle and of Stoneleigh owe much to the courteous kindness of the Earl and Countf.ss of Warwick, Lord Leigh, and Al a job Fosbery. The Marquis of Hertford, Lord Dormer, and the late Major Fetherston Dilke have favoured me with information regarding Ragley, Grove Park, and Maxstoke Castle. At Compton Verney, Offchurch Bury, Walton Hall, Charlecote, and Arbury Hall, I have benetitted by the kindness of Lord and Lady Willoughby de Broke, Jane, Countess of Aylesford, Sir Charles Mordaunt, Mrs. Spencer Lucy, and General and Mrs. Newdegate. At Cough ton, Guy's Cliff, Baddesley Clinton, Wroxall Abbey, and Bilton Hall, I have received much kind help from Miss Throckmorton and Mr. E. Cope, the late Miss Percy, Lord Algernon Percy*, Mr. R. C. Heath, Mrs. Dering, and the late Mr. Dering, Mr. and Mrs. Broughton Dugdale, and the Misses Bridgeman-Simpson.

The Hon. and Rev. Walter Verney has favoured me with preface. valuable notes regarding Lighthorne and Chesterton, and the Rev. J. C. Pinney, the Rev. J. R. Radcliffe, and the Rev. Canon Evans have contributed to my information regarding Coleshill, Snitterfield, and Solihull. At Stratford-on-Avon I received most efficient aid from Sir Arthur Hodgson and the late Mr. Charles E. Flower, while Mr. Richard Savage, the able Secretary and Librarian of Shakespeare's House, has laid me under a deep obligation by the unsparing way in which he has endeavoured to meet my inquiries. At Compton Wynyates, Earl Compton, Lady Alwyne Compton, and Mr. and Mrs. Sargent have supplied me with information of the greatest interest, and at Weston House and Upton House I received effective aid from Juliana, Countess of Camperdown and Mr. W. H. P. Jenkins.

I owe much to the pains which the late Mr. J. W. Godson took to supply me with information regarding Edge Hill, which has been supplemented at Kineton by Mr. George Lines. At Coventry, Mr. VV. G. Fretton, F.S.A., proved a kind and welcome assistant, and my researches were furthered by the courtesy of Mr. and Mrs. Wyley, of the Charterhouse. To Sir Henry Dryden I owe a debt of gratitude for his investigation of the site of Wormleighton House, and for his verification of the subjects of the windows at Compton Verney and Chadshunt Churches, as well as for other kind aid. To Mr. J. A. Cossins, the well known architect, I am greatly indebted for many valuable notes from his rich researches among the churches of Warwickshire, and to the accurate scholarship of my brother-in-law, Mr. Stephen Allen, I largely owe the correctness of the translations of the Latin epitaphs. 1 have also to thank Mr. G. K. Fortescue, of the British Museum, Sir William Flower, K.C.B., Director of the Natural History Museum, and Mr. Joseph Hill, of Birmingham, for other valuable aid.

The previous researches of Dugdale, Halliwell-Phillipps, M. H. Bloxam, and G. T. Clark have lightened my own, and necessarily proved of great service to me. My friends Mb. Edward Scbiven and Mb. T. J. Hawley have given me unsparing and valuable aid in driving me to places which it would otherwise have been difficult for me to

PREFACE.

. IX visit. To the numerous correspondents, many hundreds in number, who have favoured me with various items of information, I would here tender publicly, as I have already done privately, my cordial acknowledgments for their kindness. Last, but not least, I have to acknowledge the great aid given me by my friend Frank Gloveb in every possible form, and on every possible occasion. It only remains for me to add that I shall at all times be grateful for any additional information with which correspondents may favour me, and that the friendships I have made and the ki.id hospitality I have experienced in the course of my investigations, will always hold a cherished place in my recollections. C J. R.-T. 5, High View Road, Upper Norwood, S.E. March, 1803. CONTENTS. PAGE Introduction ■ xvn. Itinerary London to Leamington by London and North-Western Railway and by Great Western Railway xxm.

Route 1 Leamington 1 „ 2 Leamington to Guy's Cliff, and thence to Kenihvorth or Blakedown 14 „ 3 Leamington to Warwick rid Myton and iio Emscote 21 „ 4 Leamington to Long Itchington via Lillington, Cubbington, and Offclmrcli 59 „ 5 Leamington to Stratford-on-Avon via Barford, Wasperton, Hampton Lucy and Oharleeote ; via Warwick, Longbridge, and Welcombe, and rid Great Western Raihvay .... ■•■ 63 „ 6 Leamington to Kenihvorth via Chesford Bridge 107 „ 7 Kenihvorth to Coventry via Gibbet Hill 127 ,, 8 Snittertield to Alcester via Bearley and Aston Cantlow 159 „ 9 Snittertield to Stratford-on-Avon via Wilmcote and Bishopton 16.5 „ 10 Stratford-on-Avon to Cougliton via Bidford, Wixford, Arrow, and Alcester ... 167 „ 11 Alcester to Stratford-on-Avon or Wilmcote 183 „ 12 Bearley to Lapworth via Henley-in-Arden 187 „ 13 Warwick to Knowle and Solihull via Lower Norton, Claverdon, and Henley-in-Arden 193 14 Warwick to Kingswood via Hampton-on-the-Hill and Pinley 203 „ 15 Warwick to Baddesley Clinton via Rowingtou CONTENTS. page Route 16 Warwick to Temple Balsall vid Hatton and AYroxall 213 „ 17 Kenilworth to Meriden vid Berkswell ... 221 „ 18 Kenihvorth to Maxstoke via Hampton-in- Arden and Colesliill 226 „ 19 Leamington to Coventry via Ashow, Stoneleigh, and Baginton 238 „ 20 Coventry to Meriden vid Allesley 249 „ 21 Coventry to Arbury vid Corley, Fillongley, and Astley, returning by Nuneaton, Chilvers Coton, Bedworth, and Foleshill 250 „ 22 Coventry to Rugby vid Stoke, Caludon, Sowe, Binley, Bretford, King's Newnham, and Church Laws ord 264 „ 23 Leamington to Rugby vid Princethorpe and Bilton .' 267 „ 24 Rugby to Coventry vid Dunchurck and Ryton 278 „ 25 Leamington to Fenny Compton, Wormleighton, Farnborough, Avon Dassett, and Radway vid Southam 283 „ 26 Fenny Compton to Kineton ma Burton Dassett and Gaydon,rand to Radway via Old Leys 292 „ 27 Leamington to Ufton or Ladbroke via Whitnash, Chesterton and Harbury ... 300 „ 28 Leamington to Tysoe vid Tachbrook, Newbold Pacey, Moreton Morrell, Combroke, Butler's Marston, and Whatcote 308 „ 29 Leamington to Lighthorne and Kineton ... 314 „ 30 Leamington to Warmington 316 „ 31 Warwick to Radway via Wellesbourne, Compton Verney, Kineton, and Little Kineton 319 „ 32 Warmington to the Rollrich Stones vid Edge Hill, Upton, Tysoe, Compton Wynyates, Brailes, Cherington, and Long Compton ,. ...

CONTENTS. XIII. PAGE Route 33 Fenny Compton to Sulgrave vid Wormleighton and Cuhvorth, and Banbury to Sulgrave vid Thorpe Mande ville 367 Addendum and Corrigenda 374 List op Painters and Sculptors with the Localities in the County in which their Works are to be found 375 Table op Distances by Road prom Leamington 391 Table op Distances by Road from Coventry ... 394 Table of Fares from Leamington by London and North-Western Railway 395 Table of Fares from Leamington by Great Western IIailway 396 Tablk of Fares prom Stratford-on-Avon by the East and West Junction Railway... 397 Table of Fares from Stratford-on-Ayon by Great Western Railway 398 General Index MAPS AND PLANS. Paeje. 1. MAP OF WARWICKSHIRE XVII. 2. PLAN OF LEAMINGTON ■* 3. GROUND PLAN OF WARWICK CASTLE ' 23 4. PLAN OF WARWICK 39 5.

GROUND PLAN OF SHAKESPEARE'S BIRTHPLACE ... 74 62 PLAN OF STRATFORD-ON-AVON ... ... .. ... 84 7. GROUND PLAN OF KENILWORTH CASTLE 10S S. PLAN OF COVENTRY 128 9. GROUND PLAN OF MAXSTOKE PRIORY 2S5 10. GROUND PLAN OF STONELEIGH ABBEY 21,0 11. BATTLEFIELD OF EDGE HILL SSO 13. PANORAMA OF EDGE HILL FROM SUN RISING ShO 13. GROUND PLAN OF COMPTON WYNYATES 340 ETCHINGS. Paeje. 1. THE MEMORIAL FOUNTAIN, STRATFORD-ON-AVON Facing Title. 2. ALL SAINT'S CHURCH, LEAMINGTON 8 3. THE PARADE, LEAMINGTON 6 U. GUTS CLIFF ... 24 5. WARWICK CASTLE SI 6. THE GATE HOUSE, WARWICK CASTLE. Sit 7. WEST GATE AND LEICESTER'S HOSPITAL, WARWICK 53 8. CHARLECOTE 06 9. SHAKESPEARE'S BIRTHPLACE 76 10. STRATFORD-ON-AVON CHURCH 92 11. ANNE HATHAWATS COTTAGE .' ... 10k 13. KEN IL WORTH CASTLE from the Road 107 13. LEICESTER'S BUILDING, KENILWORTH CASTLE ... 113 24.

ST. MICHAEL'S CHURCH, COVENTRY 185 15. FALCON INN, BIDFORD j?fl 10 TEMPLE GRAFTON OLD CHURCH 184 17. BADDESLEY CLINTON 210 18. MAXSTOKE CASTLE 2S2 19. MAXSTOKE PRIORY g$5 20. THE GATE HOUSE, STONELEIGII ABBEY 239 21. WORMLEIGHTON MANOR HOUSE 286 22. COMPTON WYNYATES sUh TABLE OF DERIVATIONS AND EXPLANATIONS OF TERMS. PAGE. Arbour 183 Arden xvn, 176 Bancroft 92 Bice 109 Bowels, Separate burial of 227 Brays 108 Blinker's Hill .. .. 306 Burrow Hill .. .. 252 Chesford 107 Collar of SS 256 Corley 250 Coventry (name of) ... 155 Coventry (to send to) .. 157 Crab Mill 195 Dun Cow 270 Feldon xvn, 176 Gospel Oak .. .. 20 Guns used at the Battle of Edge Hill 331, 341 Guth 18 Headland 299 Heart Shrine 227 Hip-knob 129 Holy Sepulchre 42 Imp 52 PAGE. Kenilworth 118 Leamington 12 Leek Wootton 19 Longbridge 71 Miserere 140 Mona .. 365 Plaisance 115 River names xvn Rollrich 364 Rollswood 184 Rother 102 Eugby 273 Sanctus Bell 355 Stratford 74 Swathing bands 94 Tantara 126 Vossioner 283 Warwick 37 Watergall 286 Whispering Knights ... 366 Wootton Wawen .. 187 An asterisk (*) is used as sign of distinctive commendation.