Rambles through Japan without a Guide

Preface

. What would happen to a traveller who should find himself alone in the very heart of a " heathen country " like Japan, without knowing a dozen words of the native language ? If there is any novelty in the following pages, it is the response they afford to such an inquiry. Innumerable are the volumes written about Japanese life, manners, and customs ; but, so far as the writer is aware, no other traveller has made the experiment of plunging into the interior, with no more acquaintance with the speech of the people than may be picked up during a fortnight at the capital, and journeying from one end of the empire to the other, with neither inter preter nor guide. The notes taken during a three months' ramble have been closely followed, in place of a more carefully pre- VI Preface. pared and continuous narrative.

Written by many instalments during each day, wherever a halt was made for rest — at wayside tea-houses, on the steps of a temple, or at the foot of a shrine, in the midst, oftentimes, of a multitude of eager and curious faces — such a record of experience is rather a series of mental photographs of things as they were seen, than the more carefully toned picture which unaided memory would probably have painted at a later date. It has the disadvantage not only of unavoidable egotism in expression, but also of occasional repetitions; for more than once the same peculiar incident or curious custom was seen and noted down. Some historical references here and there have been slightly amplified from the original memoranda; the last two or three chapters are condensed from the diary ; and some of the latest facts in regard to its public affairs have been added, as of value to every one interested in the gradual development of the country and its progressive transformation.

The writer confesses to regarding Japanese life and manners as a phase of a real civilization ; differing very widely indeed from that which has moulded Europe; Preface. VII doubtless, on the whole, inferior to ours, but neverthe less a civilization as distinct from semi-barbarism as it is possible to conceive. It has so effectually permeated all classes of society, that courtesy and gentle manners everywhere prevail, and a boor is unknown. If Japanese civilization has erred by inculcating an inordinate venera tion for antiquity, it has thereby inspired a reverence for authority which might well induce the envy of many a European government. Although Buddhism may be " an outworn creed," it has at least served to prepare for the reception of a better, by creating a population more considerate of each other's rights and privileges than many another even in the Christian world.

It is the ambition of Japan now to take her place free and unfettered by the side of other nations. In the end she will undoubtedly succeed. A recent English writer on Japanese affairs, well informed by long residence in the country, tells us that, in common with every Eastern nation, Japan knows well enough that "our Christian and humanitarian professions are ' nothing but bunkum ; ' " that the history of Egypt and India — and he might have added, of China — " is no secret ; " that her people would indeed be blind if they failed to see that their Preface. only safety lies in the endeavour to be strong. Well, as Japan exchanges, one by one, the old ideals for the new, let us hope she may cling still to some which are associated with all that is noble in her venerable past ; to that sense of honour and that gentle courtesy which have inspired her greatest names; and to that respect for right, founded on justice rather than force, which is the essence, not indeed of our present civilization, but of something better and far more permanent — of Chris tianity itself. Oxford, 1892. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Arrival In Japan

PAGE Off the coast — Our fellow-passengers — Yokohama — Stroll in the Japanese quarter — Bastile Day celebrated — Chinese in Yokohama — Their self-importance — The crossing of races— Honour or dishonour? ... ... ... I

Chapter II. In And About Tokio

Comparison with Rome — City of magnificent distances — The jinrikisha-man — A visit to temples — The story of the forty-nine ronins — Japanese honour satisfied — Dinner at a Tokio restaurant — Difference of tastes — The children of the country — A brave boy ... ... ... ... n

Chapter III. An Excursion In The Country

An experimental trip — A morning ride — Luncheon at Ichakawa — Wayside tea-houses — Yawata — Superstition — First night at a Japanese country inn — A bath under difficulties Contents. X

Chapter IV. Sakura

PAGE A miserable night — Midnight feasts — Arrival at Sakura — The story of Sogoro — A martyr deified — Homeward bound — Second night's experience — Entertainment at supper — Arrival at Tokio ... ... ... ... ... 29

Chapter V

A PILGRIMAGE TO NIKKO. Excursion with a guide — The flea-bag — The Mikado's soldiers — A Buddhist subscription-list — Telegraphs and idols — Oyama silk-weaving — A girl at the loom — Wonders of an opera-glass — The great avenue of trees — Arrival at Nikko 38

Chapter VI. Nikko And Its Shrines

Temple architecture compared — Mausoleums and shrines — The Buddhist saint — The Assisi of Japan — Tomb of Iye-yasu — Pilgrim devotions — Nikko's ruins — Statues of Amida — Waku's desecration — Return journey — " Foreign accommodation " — Arrival at Tokio ... ... ... 47

Chapter VII. Plans And Preparations

The route decided — The mountain road — Decision to go alone — Disadvantages of being "personally conducted " — The "squeezing" process universal — Note for suture excursionists ... ... ... ... ... ... Contents. XI

Chapter VIII. Overland Toward Kioto

PAGE A midnight start — Inquisitive fellow-passengers — Honjo — Stroll about the town — Prevalence of blindness — School children — The silk industry — Japanese bargains — Village industries — Crossing the Umezawa Pass — Arrival at Ozawa ... ... ... ... ... ... 65

Chapter IX

A CROSS-COUNTRY EXCURSION. Ironworks at Ozawa — A Japanese engineer — Exploration of a mine — First ride on native pony — Mio-gi-san — Attempts at conversation — Rustic bridges — Spiders and leeches— On the Naka-sen-do — Over Usui pass — Karuizawa — Chanting pilgrims ... ... ... ... 84

Chapter X. On The Naka-sen-do

Pilgrims and prayers — Supplications for a penny — Oiwake by coach — Provoking experiences — Apparently a mirage — Mochidzuke — Fun at my expense — The long Wada pass — New costumes — Shimo no Suwa — Japanese dogs — Inherent gentleness of the people — A pious landlord ... 100

Chapter XI. The Mountain Region

The Shiwo-jiri Pass — Peculiar house architecture — A country bridge — Visit to Matsumoto — An inhospitable town — Return to Shiwo-jiri — Walk to Niyegawa — Mysteries of Contents. PAGE a magnifying-glass — Letter of introduction given — Hiro sawa—Picturesque village— Singular female costume- Village industries — Beasts of burden... ... ... H7

Chapter XII. In The Heart Of Japan

Agematsu — Magnificent scenery — Mountain mills — Village processions and dancing dragons — The artist in dough — Call from the schoolmaster — Lightning rods upon telegraph-poles — At whose suggestion ?— Isumago — Magome Pass — On a pack-horse — A narrow bridge — Led by a woman — Oi — Comforts of Japanese inns ... ... 133

Chapter XIII. Mitake To Otsu

Across the Kisogawa — Bridge-building — Melons — Gifu and its silks — Seki-ga-hara — -Akasaka — An honest friend — Samegai— Same inventions from universal needs — Lake Biwa — Steamboat to Otsu — Mi-i-dera monastery — A Japanese Samson — Ben-kei's giant soup-kettle ... ... 157

Chapter XIV. Kioto

The ancient capital — Resemblance to Philadelphia — Deified statesmen — Temples — Nan-zen-ji monastery — The thousand images of Kwannon — The great bell — Cyclopian masonry — Temple of Kiyomidzu-dera — The sin-cleansing fountain — Nude sinners — Young Japan ... ... Contents. XIII

Chapter XV. The City Of Peace

PAGE The mikado's palace — City hospital — Shimo-gamo temple — A freak of nature — Odd ceremonies — Temple of Nishi-hon-gwan-ji — Buddhist prayer-meeting — A youthful abbot — Chi-on-in monastery — Relics of antiquity — A manuscript fifteen centuries old — Musical floor — Stone Age in Japan — Kioto by night ... ... ... ... 186

Chapter XVI. Nara And Ko-ya-san

An inland excursion — Tea plantations — A stray Chinaman — Midnight alarms — Uji — Nara — An ancient city — A pagoda older than Westminster Abbey — The Dai-Butsu — The great bell — Votive offerings — A picture of terror — Saint Ko-bo Dai-shi — The holy mountain of Ko-ya-san — Hospitable monks .. . ... ... ... ... 206

Chapter XVII. Ozaka

Descent of Ko-ya-san — Travelling acrobats — Sakai — Ozaka — The " Take-shiki-ya " — The castle of Ozaka — Stones twenty feet long — A September cyclone — Hotel tied down— River scenes — American missionaries — Calling upon converts — A Christian service — Japan already more than half Christian ... ... ... ... 227

Chapter XVIII. On The Inland Sea

A native steamboat — Night voyage — Primitive accommodation — " Boy ! " — -Okayama — The American mission — Contents. XIV PAGE Call upon the governor — A Buddhist's praise of Chris tianity — A Japanese prison visited — On the Inland Sea — Islands and villages — Disembarking in darkness — A solitary sail — Unpleasant apprehensions — Night ride in a jinrikisha — Arrival at Hiroshima ... ... ... 250

Chapter XIX. Hiroshima To Nagasaki

About Hiroshima — Hospital and schools — Call from the governor — Excursion to Miyajima — Fifteen miles at a stretch — Antiquities and relics — Dinner and poetry — Longest jinrikisha journey — Shimonoseki — Scene of the bombardment — The story of a wrong — Opinion of Sir E. J. Reed, M.P. — Voyage to Nagasaki — Last day in Japan — Steamships coaled by children — Off for China ... 259

Chapter XX. The Present And Future Of Japan

Statistics of population — Comparison with England — Death-rates — Physicians and hospitals — Marriage and divorce — Foreign residents — The work of the missionary — A laudable ignorance — Commercial ideals — European policy in the Orient — Lord Elgin on the war in China — The entdhglement of Japan by treaty — Opinion of General Grant — His advice-^-The hope for the future ... ... 270 Note ... ... ... ... ... ... 2%(, LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE The Road to Nikko ... ... Frontispiece Yokohama ... ... ... ... ... 6 An Anglo-Japanese Girl ... ... ... ... 9 Tokio ... ... ... ... ... ... 17 Temple at Nikko ... ... ... ... ... 49 A Morning Call ... ... ... ... 72 The Wayside Inn ... ...• ... ... ... 98 A Japanese Peasant ... ... ... ... 114 A Buddhist Temple, Kioto ... ... ... 174 The Great Bell ... ... ... ... 179 A Winter Costume ... ... ... ... 193 A Japanese Theatre ... ... ... ... 202 A Japanese Girl ... ... ... .. ... 228 A Street in Ozaka ... ... ... ... 244 A Southern Jinrikisha ... ... ... ...

".4 perfectly paternal government, a perfectly filial people, a community entirely self-supporting, peace within and without, no want, no ill-will between classes, — this is what I find in Japan in the year 1858, after one hundred years' exclusion o/foreigners and foreign trade. Twenty years hence, what will be the contrast ? " • • " God grant that in opening their country to the West we may not be bringing upon them misery and ruin." — Letters of Lord Elgin, during his mission to Japan (1858).

Chapter I

arrival in japan. Off the coast — Our fellow-passengers — Yokohama — Stroll in the Japanese quarter — Bastile Day celebrated — Chinese in Yokohama — Their self-importance — The crossing of races — Honour or dishonour ? S.S. City of Pekin,July 10. — -We reach Japan to-morrow, the captain tells us. It has been the shortest passage on record, and with very little of interest to break the monotony of a long sea voyage. The Pacific has been worthy of its name. As we left the harbour of San Francisco the Chinese sailors climbed into the rigging and scattered bits of gilt tissue paper to the winds. We were told they were prayers to the Chinese Neptune for B a good voyage. The result has undoubtedly increased faith in the god of storms, for we have had favourable winds every day. There are only twelve first-class passengers — all men.

Three are naval officers, going out to their ships in China seas ; two are Japanese merchants established in New York, returning home to make purchases ; two or three are Americans engaged in business in Yoko hama ; one is a missionary bound for China ; and the rest of us are " globe-trotters." The principal amuse ment during the voyage has been gambling, which has gone on from 9 a.m. till midnight, Sundays not excepted. The players have settled up their accounts, and I under stand the chief winners are two young men, just graduated from Oxford, who were taught the game since coming aboard ! Great is the disgust of the Americans who invited them to take a hand, and volunteered to "teach them the game." The evening is beautiful, the air soft, balmy, and the sea stirred only enough to break into a shimmering path the reflection of the full moon in the water.

Somehow every one seems more quiet than usual ; thoughts stray homeward. " I would give almost anything to have my wife with me such an evening as this," said the naval captain. He has left his family in San Francisco — four little children, and no chance or hope of seeing them for three years to come. " I don't think of it ; I can't think of it ; I must think only of each day's duties as they A rrival in Japan. 3 come to me. We understood what it was to be when we entered the service, or," he added, after a pause, " at least we thought we understood it." Our Japanese passengers are very pleasant, and have told me a great deal about the customs of the people. There is no difficulty whatever, they say, in travelling alone about the country, except ignorance ofthe language. I have already learned from them how to count — the first lesson of civilization.

Yokohama, July n. — The firing of a cannon over my head at three o'clock this morning announced to the inhabitants the arrival of our steamer. At break of day I went on deck to get that first view of Japan which so charms and surprises all who see it for the first time. All about the ship were little unpainted boats, whose owners were eager to land passengers for a sixpence; but with the ignorance of a stranger I preferred awaiting the arrival of the steam-launch sent out by the different hotels. On reaching shore, found good quarters at the Grand Hotel ; and have spent the day in obtaining impressions and mental photographs. One cannot readily forget the first day in a new land. Everything is strange ; trifles are amusing. Leaving the principal street and eluding jinrikisha-men — more per sistent even than Neapolitan hackmen — I found my way on foot to the Japanese town.

In Asia at last ! Everything is new, strange, different. All the houses are unpainted ; storm and sunshine have given them a rich greyish-brown tint, the natural hue of unstained wood. The ground-floor, a shop usually, is sometimes open to the street, sometimes half-shaded by a bamboo screen. Every device seems to have the purpose of letting in the air and keeping out the sun light. A bookseller's shop was the scene of my first purchase. One sits down on the doorstep, or the counter, or the floor — they are much the same. The proprietor leaves his work at the back of the shop, and, coming forward, drops on his knees and bows profoundly. I return the salute after the manner of my people. A pause ensues. There is difficulty in beginning a conversation. Opening a book, I point to the pictures ; he comprehends, and brings me a selection of his wares.

After choosing a few, I spring upon him one of the very few Japanese words I picked up on the voyage — " Ikura ? " or " How much is this ? " He answers in one of the tongues of Babel ! Somehow I do not catch his meaning as well as he understands mine ; and yet I thought I knew how to count in Japanese. " Ikura ? " I say again. A pro found bow, and the same unmeaning words. How stupid a strange language sounds ! I look reflective, as if studying the question from a mercenary standpoint, and slowly shake my head. He is respectful, but firm. Over the face of his wife I fancy a smile crept, as if she penetrated my absolute ignorance. Finally I take a bit of paper and make signs for him to write down the price, Arrival in Japan. 5 which he does — in Chinese ! However, I give him a bit of [money, out of which he returns such a surprisingly large amount of change that I fear he has made a mistake in calculating. 'Tis no time for explanations.

We part with distinguished salutations. Across the street is a photographer. His negatives in frames lean against the steps outside, or wherever a bit of sunlight can be had. Here I am more fortunate as to conversation ; his replies to my " Ikura ? " I really understand. Photographs are always of interest, and his are surprisingly cheap — a penny each. As my purchase seems likely to be considerable for him, he determines to treat, and sending out a servant, she returns with two glasses of iced-water, which we drink to our better acquaintance. A crowd gathers about the door, the eager jinrikisha-man, idle apprentices, young girls with babies strapped on their backs. It would seem that even in Yokohama the stray foreigner is some thing of a curiosity. How courteous and polite these shopkeepers are !

Paris even is outdone. But, then, it is never very difficult to spend money, whether or not one knows the language. Yokohama, July 14. — This appears to be a general holiday. Flags everywhere are flying, the banks are closed, and business generally suspended. Why ? Simply because a hundred years ago a people, rising en masse, attacked a fortress ; that, and the events that followed, make the day memorable. Is anything more singular YOKOHAMA, Arrival in Japan. 7 than the importance which history, looking backward, assigns to events that seemed even to observers of but transitory significance? Of that patriotic mob which poured into the Bastile when at last it surrendered, was there one who could have dreamed that a century afterwards, on shores where the very name of France was then unknown, that deed and that day would be remembered with honour and pride ?

I notice quite a colony of Chinese here in Yokohama, and of a type decidedly different from those one sees in California, where for the most part they are servants and labourers, " hewers of wood and drawers of water." Here many of them seem to be fairly well-to-do merchants and money-changers. Clothed in silk and fine linen, they are of a higher caste every way than the Hongkong or Canton coolie who finds his way to the States. One gets accustomed to the supercilious, half concealed contempt of a San Francisco laundry-man, who condescends to do up the barbarian's linen; but the national satisfaction with themselves seems infinitely more marked in these sleek, smooth-faced Tartars who change your money. Their position in the bank seems to be fairly secure. I was told the other day, that not long ago one of these compradores, or money-changers, attached to one of the principal banks, insulted the manager, and was bundled off the premises.

The next day their bills were refused at every money-changer's office in the city ; the day after, every merchant begged his customer to pay some other currency ; and the third day the bank surrendered, and reinstated their compra dore. Evidently they are strong in their position here. Out of his own country the Chinaman is like the Jew. You may dislike him, but you cannot dispense with his services. He returns scorn for scorn, and our Western pride with unspeakable contempt. It is always unsafe to draw one's conclusions re specting a country from the character of a seaport population. The "globe-trotter" who judges Japan from Yokohama is as wise as the Oriental pilgrim who should picture English society from his chance experience in Glasgow or Liverpool, or judge American morality solely by rambles in New York and New Orleans.

The intermingling in commercial relations of Occidental and Oriental races seems everywhere in Asia to create a new theory of morals. What would be regarded decidedly wrong at home looks right enough in Asia. One gentleman, for many years a resident in Yokohama, told me that in every one of the new treaty ports a new race is growing up, corresponding with the Eurasian of British India. Every foreigner engaged in commercial pursuits, is expected, if he has no family at home, to take a Japanese wife. I say " wife," because, as in the State of New York, no re ligious ceremony is necessary to make the relation quite legal, according to Japanese law. But supposing the merchant retires from business? Then he "divorces" Arrival in Japan. 9 his wife; provides for her future, and that of her children, if she has any ; and sails away to European respectability.

Sometimes he departs without making any provision for his offspring, and leaving their mother to poverty. Still, as the relation, in Japanese eyes, is a sort of wedlock, her reputation is in no way injured, nor her chances diminished of making another marriage. Everywhere in and about the European quarter I came upon children of the mixed race, some of them ex ceedingly good-looking. About one I was told a little history that per haps points a moral, unforeseen by im- AN anglo-japanese girl. petuous youth. Some years ago a young man came to Japan to seek his fortune, and in a short time had followed the example of his friends and compatriots in setting up his household gods. Two children were born to him — "the handsomest children in Yoko hama," said his friend, who told me the story. Fortune favoured, and the young adventurer was taken into partnership, and rapidly acquired a fortune.

At last he returns for a visit to his native land. " Why doesn't he marry and take his wife back to Japan ? " is the general inquiry of intimate friends. It would seem to be a very natural proceeding. He can divorce his Japanese wife, according to Jewish customs, by simply sending her home to her parents. But the children ? He loves them ; he is proud of them. How shall he introduce them to his new wife ? Life goes well enough as it is. The mother of his children is gentle, obedient, faithful, although she will never be seen or heard of outside Japan. He will not marry. He returns to Japan, uncertain, perhaps, whether to be discontented or satis fied, and life goes on as before. Some day he will die. She will be provided for ; and his children, receiving a European education, will inherit a good share of what he leaves behind.

Outside Asia, no one will guess what mingled currents of blood course through their veins. I am far from being certain that his decision is to be condemned. He might have acted with meanness and dishonour, retaining nevertheless the good opinion of the world — satisfied to be ignorant. For I am told that cases have been known where men, who have acquired a fortune on these shores, have returned home to Europe and America, leaving even daughters behind them, without the least provision for their education or future support. And to what a fate !

Chapter II. In And About Tokio

Comparison with Rome — City of magnificent distances — The jinrikisha-man — A visit to temples — The story of the forty-nine ronins — Japanese honour satisfied — Dinner at a Tokio restaurant — Difference of tastes — The children of the country — A brave boy. Tokio, July 19. — It is a little singular that to me Tokio constantly suggests a comparison with modern Rome. The differences are great, but so are the similitudes. The same brown skins, and variegated costumes of country folk; the same love of sunshine and half-nudity; the narrow streets ; the careless poverty that sleeps by the wayside at midday ; the shorn and shaven priests ; the crowded temples ; the heights and intervening valleys — all these bring to mind the ancient capital of the world. Then, too, Rome is here suggested by the same desire of the inhabitants for new buildings, and by the intermingling of town and country within the city limits.

Fifteen years ago one could start from the Colosseum and wander for hours through by-paths and vineyards with nothing to suggest that he was bounded by the walls of imperial Rome. So with Tokio. Outside the centre and business part of the capital the greater portion seems to consist of villages, quite distinct from one another, yet together constituting one metropolis, much perhaps as if London, a century ago, had then embraced the town it now includes. Tokio is a city of magnificent distances, and the jinrikisha has been in great request. Of all methods of conveyance this is the most convenient. Riding at full speed, you can draw up in an instant, and that by a word. My karuma-man is a stout, comical-looking fellow, good natured and willing, and as strong as a horse. Besides a blue shirt, he wears only a pair of cotton drawers ending above the knee, and a blue hand kerchief twisted or knotted round his head.

Turning corners, his deep guttural " hei ! hei ! " sends all foot passengers scattering to the side of the road, along which he rushes at full speed. We seem constantly in danger of collision with other jinrikishas of the same kind, but nothing of the sort happens; perhaps even horses would be careful if they owned the carriages to which they are attached. These jinrikishas or karumas appear to be used by all classes. Sometimes one would imagine that even beggars are riding, only in this country bare legs are no certain sign of poverty. In and about Tokio. 13 I have visited the temples : all interesting, but chiefly for the crowds which frequent them. Mothers bring their little ones, and put their tiny palms together in the attitude of reverence or prayer, as they face the image of the merciful goddess, Kwan-non.

Before each temple or shrine is the inevitable money-box ; here often a huge wooden chest, into which, through oblique slits, the grateful worshipper throws his coppers. One of these chests was at least six or eight feet in length. At the temple of Sen-gaku-ji are to be seen the graves of the forty-nine ronins, the story of whose vengeance and voluntary death is one, not only of great dramatic interest, but most significant of Japanese character. It seems that in the year 1701 a certain nobleman of high rank, being grossly insulted by another, drew his sword with the purpose of avenging the indignity offered him. Unfortunately for him, this outburst of passion happened within the very palace of the Shogun, where to unsheathe a weapon in anger was a capital offence. No palliation was possible, and it was hinted to the offender that he was expected with as little delay as possible to perform hara-kiri, which he accordingly did.

But this by no means accorded with the ideas of justice held by his retainers. Their master was dead; the man who insulted him lived. They plotted to obtain revenge ; even though each one of them knew that his own death would immediately follow. After more than a year spent in absence from the capital, and in allaying all suspicion of danger, on the night of January 30, 1703, the conspirators made their attack on the house of their lord's foe. Dragging him from his hiding-place, they informed him that his last hour had come ; giving him, however, the opportunity of dying honourably by " happy despatch." Their courtesy does not appear to have been duly appreciated, for in the end they were obliged to cut off his head. Leaving the house, they made their way to their master's grave, and kneeling about.it, deposited thereon the head of his foe.

Not one of them seems to have thought of personal safety or of possible escape. But if honour must be satisfied, crime must also be punished, and each man suffered the penalty of death. Here, in a little cemetery in suburban Tokio, I visited their graves. Each has its own head-stone ; they are grouped about the tomb of their lord and master, to revenge whose untimely death each man gave up his life. A like history I do not believe is to be found in the records of any other nation. While I was there more than one pilgrim, foot-sore and travel-stained, entered the enclosure and knelt for a moment of prayer or invocation before each grave. For nearly two hundred years, then, this has been sacred to memory of men who loved the honour of their lord better than their own lives. At such a shrine, for what, I wonder, do these pilgrims pray ?