Old and New London, etc

Chapter I. Belgravia

PAGE Prefatory Remarks— The Building of the District— De Moret, and his Flying-machine— Nature of the Soil of Belgravia— " Slender Billy" —The Spanish Monkey "Mukako" and Tom Cribb's Fighting Dogs— The Grosvenor Family — Enormous Rent-rolls — Belgravia and Bethnal Green compared— Lanesborough House— St. George's Hospital— Old " Tattersall's "—St. George's Place— Liston, the Comedian —Pope's School-days— The Alexandra Hotel— The Old Toll-gate at Hyde Park Comer— Grosvenor Place— The " Feathers" Tavern, and how George Prince of Wales was made an Odd Fellow there — Arabella Row— A Witty Lord Chancellor— The " Bag o' Nails "— The "Three Compasses"— Belgrave Square— "Gentleman Jones "— Eccleston Street— Sir Francis Chantrey— St. Paul's Church. Wilton Place— The Pantechnicon— H aikin Street— Upper and Lower Belgrave Streets— Suicide of Lord Munster— Eaton Square— Chester Square— Ebury Street— Lowndes Square— Cadogan Place— William Wilberforce— The Locality in Former Times I

Chapter II. Knightsbri Dge

Derivation of the Name of Knightsbridge— Early History of the Locality— The Old Bridge— Insecurity of the Reads, and Bad Reputation of the Innkeepers— Historical Events connected with Knightsbridge — The Old "Swan" Inn— Electioneering Riots— An Eccentric Old Lady — The "Spring Garden " and the " World's End" — Knightsbridge Grove — Mrs. Cornelys as a Vendor of Asses' Milk — Albert Gate — The " Fox and Bull "—The French Embassy— George Hudson, the " Railway King " — The Cannon Brewery — Dunn's Chinese Gallery— Trinity Chapel and the Lazar House — "Irregular" Marriages — Knightsbridge Barracks — Smith and Barber's Floor-cloth Manufactory — Edward Stirling, the "Thunderei " of the Times — Kent House — Kingston House — Rutland Gate — Ennismore Place — Brompton Oratory— Brompton Church— Count Rumford and other Distinguished Residents— New " Tattersall's "—The Green — Chalker House— The " Rose and Crown " Inn— The " Rising Sun "—Knightsbridge Cattle Market .... . 15

Chapter III. The Great Exhibition Of

185 1. Previous Exhibitions of a somewhat similar Character— The Marquis d'Aveze's projected Exhibition — Various French Expositions— Competitive Exhibitions in England — Prince Albert's Proposal for holding an Industrial Exhibition of All Nations— His Royal Highness becomes Chainnan of the Royal Commission— Banquet at the Mansion House— Lecturers and Agents sent all over the Country, to Explain the Objects of the Exhibition — Reception of Plans and Designs — Mr. Paxton's Design accepted — Realisation of one of the Earliest Poeiical Dreams in the English Language— General Description of the Building — Opening of the Exhib'tion by Her Majesty — Number of Visitors— Removal of the Building— The National Albert Memorial 28

Chapter IV. Pimlico

Etymology of PJmlico— The Locality Half a Century Ago — Warwick Square— Vauxhall Bridge Road— The Army Clothing Depot— St. George's Square— The Church of St. James the Less— Victoria Railway Station— New Chelsea Bridge— The Western Pumping Station, and Metropolitan Main-Drainage Works— St. Barnabas Church— St. Barnabas Mission House and Orphanage— Bramah, the Engineer and Locksmith— Thomas Cubitt, the Builder — The " Monster" Tavern — The "Gun," the "Star and Garter," and the "Orange" Tea- Gardens — "Jenny's Whim" — Tart Hall— Stafford Row — St. Peter's Chapel and Dr. Dodd— Richard Heber and his famous Library . 39

Chapter V. Chelsea

Boundary of the Parish— Etymology of its Name — Charles II. and Colonel Blood— Chelsea Fields— The "Dwarfs Tarem "— Chapeh of French Huguenot Refugees— Gardens and Nurseries— Appearance of Chelsea from the River— Chelsea in the Last Century— A E CONTENTS. FAGS Hunt in Chelsea— History of the Manor— The Old Manor House and its Eminent Residents— Lord Cremome's Farm at Chelsea— Lady Cremorne— Lindsey House— The Moravians— The Duchess of Mazarine— Sir Robert Walpole's House— Shrewsbury House— Winchester House— Beaufort House and the " Good " Sir Thomas More— Anecdotes of Sir Thomas More— The Old and New Parish Churches . 50

Chapter VI. Chelsea

(continued). Cheyne Walk— An Eccentric Miser— Dominicetti, an Italian Quack— Don Saltero's Coffee House sud Museum— Catalogue of Rarities in the Museum— Thomas Carlyle— Chelsea Embankment— Albert Bridge— The Mulberry Garden— The " Swan" Inn— The Rowing Matches for Doggett's Coat and Badge— The Botanic Gardens— The Old Bun-house 59

Chapter VII. Chelsea

(continued).- THE HOSPITAL, &C. Foundation of the Hospital— The Story of Nell Gwynne and the Wounded Soldier— Chelsea College— .Archbishop Bancroft's Legacy— Transference of the College to the Royal Society— The Property sold to Sir Stephen Fox, and afterwards given as a Site for the Hospital- Lord Ranelagh's Mansion — Dr. Monsey— The Chudleigh Family — The Royal Hospital described — Lying in State of the Duke of Wellington — Regulations for the Admission of Pensioners — A few Veritable Centenarians — The " Snow Shoes " Tavern — The Duke of York's School— Ranelagh Gardens, and its Former Glories— The Victoria Hospital for Sick Children JO

Chapter VIII. Chelsea

(continued). —CREMORNE GARDENS, &C. Chelsea Farm, the Residence of Lord Cremorne— Cremorne Gardens— Attempts at Aerial Navigation— Ashburnham House — The .Ashburnham Tournament— The "Captive " Balloon— Turner's Last Home — Noted Residents in Lindsey Row— The King's Road — The Old Burial-ground — St. Mark's College — The "World's End" Tavern — Chelsea Common — Famous Nurseries — Chelsea Park — The "Goat in Boots " — The Queen's Elm — The Jews' Burial-ground — Shaftesbury House — The Workhouse — Sir John Cope — Robert Boyle, the Fhilosopher and Chemist— The Earl of Orrery— Mr. Adrian Haworth— Dr. Atterbury— Shadwell, the Poet— The "White Horse" Inn— Mr. H. S. Woodfall— The Original of "Strap the Barber" in "Roderick Random "—Danvers Street— Justice Walk— The Old Wes'eyan Chapel — Chelsea China — Lawrence Street — Tobias Smollett— Old Chelsea Stage-coaches — Sir Richard Steele and other Noted Residents — The Old Clock-house — The Glaciarium— Hospital for Diseases of Women — Chelsea Vestry Hall, and Literary and Scientific Institution — Congregational Church — Royal Avenue Skating-rink — Sloane Square — Bloody Bridge — Chelsea.

Brompton, and Belgrave Dispensary — Royal Court Theatre — Hans Town — Sloane Street— Trinity Church — Sloane Terrace Wesleyan Chapel — Sir G W. Dilke, Bart. — Ladies' Work Society — Hans Town School of Industry for Girls — "Count Cagliostro " — An sAnecdote of Professor Porson — Chelsea House — St. Mary's Roman Catholic Chapel — The " Marlborough Tavern " — Hans Place — Miss Letitia E. Landon — The Pavilion — St. Saviour's Church — Prince's Cricket -ground and Skating-rink — The " South Australian" 84

Chapter IX. West Brompton, South Kensington Museum

&c. Situation of Brompton— Its Nurseries and Flower-gardens — Cromwell or Hale House — Thistle Grove — The Boltons— Westminster and West London Cemetery — Brompton Hall — St. Michael's Grove — Brompton Grove — John Sidney Hawkins— Gloucester Lodge— The Hospital for Consumption — The Cancer Hospital — Pelham Crescent — Onslow Square — Eagle Lodge — Thurloe Place and Square — Cromwell Road— The International Exhibition of 1862 — Annual International Exhibitions— A School of Cookery— Exhibition of Scientific Apparatus—The National Portrait Gallery — The Meyrick Collection of Arms and Armour — The Indian Museum— South Kensington Museum —The Raphael Cartoons— The Sheepshanks, Ellison, and Vernon Galleries— Ancient and Modern Jewellery— The Museum of Patents —The Science and .Art Schools—The Royal .Albert Hall — The National Training School for Music — Royal Horticultural Gardens— The Fisheries Exhibition , 1--X-*

Chapter X

" THE OLD COURT SUBURB."— KENSINGTON. Descent of the Manor— A Parochial Enigma— Derivation of the Name of Kensington— Thackeray's " Esmond "—Leigh Hunt's Reminiscences—Gore House — Mr. WUoerforce, the Philanthropist— Lord Rodney— The Countess of Elessington and her Admirers— An Anecdote of Louis Napoleon— Count D'Orsay's Picture — A Touching Incident— Sale of the Contents of Gore House, and Death of the Countess of Blessington— M. Soyer's " Symposium "—Sale of the Gore House Estate— Park House — Hamilton Lodge, the Residence of John Wilkes — Batty's Hippodrome — St. Stephen's Church — Orford Lodge — Christ Church XI7

Chapter XI. Kensington

(continued). The Old Court Suburb— Pepys at " Kingly Kensington "—The High Street— Thackeray's " Esmond "—Palace Gate— Colby House— Singular Death— Kensington House : its Early History— Famous Inhabitants— Old Kensington Bedlam— The New House Young Street— Kensington Square — Famous Inhabitants — Talleyrand— .An Aged Waltzer— Macaulay's Description of Talleyrand— The New Parish Church —The Old Building— The Monuments— The Bells— The Parish Registers— The Charity School— Campden House— "The Dogs"— Sir James South's Observatory— A Singular Sale— Other Noted Residents at Kensington— Insecurity of the Kensington Road— A Remarkable Dramatic Performance— A Ghost Story — The Crippled Boys' Home — Scarsdale House — The Roman Catholic University College — Roman Catholic Chapels — The Pro-Cathedral — The " Adam and Eva " ...... , ,-,-, CONTENTS. V

Chapter XII. Kensington Palace

pagb Situation of Kensington Palace — Houses near it — Kensington Palace Gardens— The " King's Arms "—Henry VIII. 's Conduit — Palace Green — The Kensington Volunteers— The Water Tower — Thackeray's House : his Death— Description of the Palace— The Chapel— The Principal Pictures formerly shown here — Eajly History of the Building — William III. and Dr. Radcliffe — A "Scene" in the Royal Apartments — Death of Queen Mary and William III. — Queen Anne and the Jacobites — " Scholar Dick," and his Fondness for the Bottle— Lax Manners of the Court under the Early Georges — Death of George II. — The Princess Sophia— Caroline, Princess of Wales ■--Ball*, and Parties given by her Royal Highness — An Undignified Act — The Duke of Sussex's Hospitality — Birth of the Princess Victoria — Her Baptism — Death of William IV., and Accession of Queen Victoria— Her First Council — Death ofthe Duke of Sussex — The Duchess of Inverness — Other Royal luhabitants 13$

Chapter XIII. Kensington Gardens

"Military" Appearance of the Gardens, as læd out by Wise and Loudon— Addison's Comments on the Horticultural Improvements of his Time — The Gardens as they appeared at .the Beginning of the Last Century — Queen Anne's Banqueting House — Statue of Dr. Tenner-— Bridgeman's Additions to the Gardens — The "Ha! ha!" — " Capability " Brown — The Gardens first opened to the Public — A Foreigner's Opinion of Kensington Gardens — "Tommy Hill" and John Poole — Introduction of Rare Plants and Shrubs — Scotch Pines and other Trees — A Friendly Flash of Lightning — The Reservoir and Fountains — Tickell, and his Poem on Kensington Gardens- Chateaubriand — Introduction of Hooped Petticoats — The Broad Walk becomes a Fashionable Promenade— Eccentricities in Costume— The Childhood of Queen Victoria, and her Early Intercourse with her Future Subjects — A Critical Review of the Gardens . . -152

Chapter XIV. Holland House, And Its Historical Associations

Earl's Court— John Hunter's House — Mrs. Inchbald — Edwardes Square — Warwick Road and Warwick Gardens — Addison Road — Holland House — An Antique Relic — The Pictures and Curiosities — The Library — The Rooms occupied by Addison, Charles Fox, Rogers, and Sheridan— Holland House under the Family of Rich — Theatrical Performances carried on by Stealth during the Commonwealth- Subsequent Owners of the Mansion — Oliver Goldsmith — Addison — The House purchased by Henry Fox, afterwards Lord Holland — The Story of Henry Fox's Elopement with the Daughter of the Duke of Richmond— Lady Sarah Lennox and the Private Theatricals- Charles James Fox — Henry Richard, third Lord Holland, and his Imperious Wife— Lord Macaulay, and other Distinguished Guests — "Who is Junius?"— Lord Holland and the Emperor Napoleon— Death of Lord Holland, and his Charactrr, as written by a Friend— A Curious Custom— The Duel between Lord Camelford and Captain Best— Rogers' Grotto— The Gardens and Grounds— Can ova's Bust of Napoleon — The Highland and Scottish Societies' Sports and Pastimes— A Tradition concerning Cromwell and Ireton— Little Holland House — The Residence of General Fox — The Nursery-grounds 161

Chapter XV. Notting Hill And Bayswater

The Old Turnpike Gate — Derivation of the Name of Notting Hill— The Manor of Notting or Nutting Barns— Present Aspect of Notting Hill—1 Old Inns and Taverns — Gallows Close — The Road where Lord Holland drew up his Forces previous to the Battle of Brentford- Kensington Gravel Pits — Tradesmen's Tokens — A Favourite Locality for Artists and Laundresses — Appearance of the District at tho Beginning of the Present Century — Reservoirs of the Grand Junction Waterworks Company — Ladbroke Square and Grove — Kensington Park Gardens — St. John's Church — Notting Hill Farm — Norland Square — Onne Square — Bayswater House, the Residence of Fauntleroy, the Forger — St. Petersburgh Place — The Hippodrome — St. Stephen's Church — Portobello Farm — The Convent of the Little Sisters of the Poor — Bayswater — The Cultivation of Watercresses — An Ancient Conduit — Public Tea Gardens — Sir John Hill, the Botanist — Craven House — Craven Road, and Craven Hill Gardens — The Pest-house Fit Ids — Upton Farm — The Toxophilite Society — Westbourne Grove and Terrace — The Residence of John Sadleir, the Fraudulent M.P. — Lancaster Gate — The Pioneer of Tramways- Queen Charlotte's Lying-in Hospital— Death of Dr, Adam Clarke— The Burial-ground of St. George's, Hanover Square . . • 177

Chapter XVI. Tyburn And Tyburnia

Derivation of the Name of Tyburn — Earliest Executions on this Spot— Sir Roger Bolinbroke, the Conjuror— Elizabeth Barton, the "Holy Maid of Kent " — Execution of Roman Catholics— Morocco Men — Mrs. Turner, the Poisoner, and Inventor of the Yellow Starched Ruffs .and Cuffs— Resuscitation of a Criminal after Execution — Colonel Blood — Jack Sheppard and Jonathan Wild — Mrs. Catherine Hayes — *■' Clever Tom Clinch " — " Execution Day " — The Execution of Lord Ferrers — The Rev. Mr. Hackman — Dr. Dodd — The Last Act of a Highwayman's Life — " Sixteen-string Jack " — McLean, the " Fashionable Highwayman '' — Claude Duval — John Twyn, an Offending Printer — John Haynes, and his Resuscitation after Hanging — Ryland, the Forger — An Unlucky Jest — "Jack Ketch" — Tyburn Tickets —Hogarth's "Tom Idle" — The Gallows and its Surroundings — The Story ofthe Penance of Queen Henrietta Maria — An Anecdote about George III.— The Site of Tyburn Tree— The Tyburn Pew-opener — Tyburnia— Connaught Place — The Princess Charlotte and the Prince of Orange — The Residence of Mr. T. A^heton-Smith, and of Haydon the Painter lS8

Chapter XVII. Paddington

Rustic Appearance of Paddington at the Commencement of this Century— Intellectual Condition of the Inhabitants — Gradual Increase of the Population — The Manor of Paddington — The Feast of Abbot Walter, of Westminster — The Prior of St Bartholomew's and his Brethren-— Dr. Steldon's Claim of the Manor— The Old Parish Church — Hogarth's Marriage — Building of the New Parish Church— A CONTENTS. VI PACE Curious Custom— Poorness of the Living— The Burial-ground— Noted Persons buried here— Life of Haydon, the Painter— Dr. Geddes — The New Church of St. James— Holy Trinity Church— All Saints' Church— The House of the Notorious Richard Brothers— Old Public houses—Old Paddmgton Green— The Vestry Hall— The Residences of Thomas Uwins, R. A. , and Wyatt, the Sculptor— Eminent Residents — The Princess Charlotte and her Governess— Paddington House — " Jack-in-the-Green " — Westbourne Place — Westbourne Green — Des borough Place— Westbourne Farm, the Residence of Mrs. Siddons— The Lock Hospital and Asylum— St. Mary's Hospital— Paddington Provident Dispensary— The Dudley-Stuart Home—" The Boatman's Chapel "—Queen's Park— Old Almshouses— Grand Junction Canal — The Western Water- Works— Imperial Gas Company — Kensal Green Cemetery— Eminent Persons buried here— Great Western Railway Terminus • 20^

Chapter XVIII. Underground London

: ITS RAILWAYS, SUBWAYS, AND SEWERS. Proposal of a Scheme for Underground Railways — Difficulties and Oppositions it had to encounter— Commencement of the Undertaking — Irruption of the Fleet Ditch — Opening of the Metropolitan Railway— Influx of Bills to Parliament for the Formation of other Underground Lines— Adoption of the " Inner Circle" Plan — Description of the Metropolitsan Railway and its Stations— The " Nursery-maids' Wall:" — A Great Triumph of Engineering Skill — Extension of the Line from Moorgate Street— The East London Railway — Engines and Carriages, and Mode of Lighting— Signalling— Ventilation of the Tunnel— Description of the Metropolitan District Railway- Workmen's Trains— The Water Supply and Drainage of London— Subways for Gas, Sewage, and other Purposes ..... 224

Chapter XIX. Kilburn And St

JOHN'S WOOD. Rural Aspect of Kilburn in Former Times— Maida Vale— Derivation of the Name of Kilburn— The Old Road to Kilburn— Godwin, the Hermit of Kilburn— The Priory— Extracts from the Inventory of the Priory— The Sisterhood of St. Peter's— St. Augustine's Church— Kilburn Wells and Tea-gardens— The " Bell " Tavern— A Legend of Kilburn— The Roman Catholic Chapel— George Ernmmell's liking for Plum Cake— Olives* Goldsmith': Suburban Quarters— Lausanne Cottage— St. John's Wood— Babington, the Conspirator— Sir Edwin Landseer —Thomas Landseer— George Osbaldiston and other Residents in St. John's Wood— Lord's Cricket Ground— The " Eyre Arms" Tavern —Charitable Institutions— Roman Catholic Chapel of Our Lady— St. Mark's Church— St. John's Wood Chapel and Burial-ground- Richard Brothers and Joanna Southcott 243

Chapter XX. Marylebone, North

: ITS HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS. North Bankand South Bank— Rural Aspect of the Neighbourhood Haifa Century Ago— Marylebone Park— Taverns and Tea-gardens— The " Queen's Head and Artichoke " — The " Harp" — The " Farthing Pie House" — The " Yorkshire Stingo" — The Introduction of Loudon Omnibuses by Mr. Shillibeer — Marylebone Baths and Washhouses— Queen Charlotte's Lying-in Hospital — The New Road— The Paddington Stage-Coach — A Proposed Boulevard round the Outskirts of London — Dangers of the Road — Lisson Grove— The Philological School— A Favourite Locality for Artists— John Martin, R.A.— Chapel Street— Leigh Hunt— Church Street— The Royal Alfred Theatre — Metropolitan Music- Hall— Port man Market — Blandford Square — The Convent of the Sisters of Mercy — Michael Faraday as a Bookbinder — Harewood Square — Dorset Square— The Original " Lord's " Cricket-Ground — Upper Baker Street— Mrs. Siddons' Residence — The Notorious Richard Brothers— Invention of the " Tilbury " 2CI

Chapter XXI. The Regent's Park

: THE ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS, &c. Rural Character of the Site in Former Times — A Royal Hunting-ground — The Original Estate disparked— Purchased from the Property of the Duke of Portland — Commencement of the Present Park — The Park thrown open to the Public —Proposed Palace for the Prince Regent— Description of the Grounds and Ornamental Waters— The Broad Walk— Italian Gardens and Lady Burdett-Coutts' Drinking- Fountain— The Sunday Afternoon Band — Terraces and Villas — Lord Hertford and the Giants from St. Dunstan's Church — Mr. Bishop's Observatory— Explosion on the Regent's Canal— The Baptist College— Mr James Silk Buckingham— Ugo Foscolo— Park Square — Sir Peter Laurie a Resident here— The Diorama— The Building turned into a Baptist Chapel— The Colosseum— The Great Panorama of London— The " Glaciarium "— The Cyclorama of Lisbon— St. Katharine's College— The Adult Orphan Institution-Æhester Terrace and Chester Place— Mrs. Fitzherbert's Villa— The Grounds of the Toxophilite Society— The Royal Botanical Society— The Zoological Gardens pfe

Chapter XXII. Primrose Hill And Chalk Farm

Situation of Primrose Hill, and its Appearance in Bygone Times— Barrow Hill and the West Middlesex Waterworks— The Manor of Chalcot— Murder of Si.- Edmund Berry Godfrey— Duel between Ugo Foscolo and Graham— Primrose Hill purchsased by the Crown, and made a Park for the People— The Tunnel through the Hill— Fireworks in Celebration of the Peace in 1856 — The Shakespeare Oak— Lady Byron's Residence— Chalk Farm— Duels sought there— The Wrestling Club of Cumberland and Westmoreland— The Eccentric Lord Coleraine — The Old Chalk Farm Tavern— The Railway Station— Pickford's Goods Depdt— The Boys' Home— The " York and.Alb.any" Tavern— Gloucester Gate — Albany Street— The Guards' Barracks — Park Village East— Cumberland Market Munster Square— Osnaburgh Street— Sir Goldsworthy Gumey — The " Queen's Head and Artichoke " — Trinity Church . 28*f

Chapter XXIII. Euston Road, Hampstead Road, And The Adjacent Neighbourhood

Pastoral Character of the Locality in the Lsast Century — The Euston Road— Statuary-yards — The "Adam and Eve" Tavern Its Tea-gardens and its Cakes and Creams— A "Strange and Wonderful Fruit "—Hogarth's Picture of the "March of the Guards to Finchley"— The "Paddington Drag"- A Miniature Menagerie— A Spring-water Bath— Eden Street— Hampstead Road— The " Sol's CONTENTS. VII PASS Arms "Tavern— David Wilkie's Residence — Granby Street— Momington Crescent— Charles Dickens' School-days— Cl arks on Stanfield— George Cruikshank — The "Old King's Head" Tavern— Tolmer's Square— Drum mond Street— St. James'-; Church — St. Pancras Female Charity School— The Original Distillery of " Old Tom " — Bedford New Town— Ampthill Square — The " Infant Roscius " — Harrington Square 30 1

Chapter XXIV. Camden Town And Kentish Town

Camden Town— Statue of Richard Cobden— Oakley Square— The " Bedford Arms "—The Royal Park Theatre— The "Mother Red Cap"— The "Mother Shipton" — The Alderney Dairy — The Grand Junction Canal — Bayham Street, and its Former Inhabitants — Camden Road— Camden Town Railway Station— The Tailors' Almshouses — St Pancras Almshouses — Maitland Park — The Orphan Working School— The Dominican Monastery— Gospel Oak— St. Martin's Church— Kentish Town : its Buildings and its Residents— Great College Street— The Royal Veterinai^ College — Pratt Street— St. Stephen's Church— Sir Henry Bishop — Agar Town 309

Chapter XXV. St

PANCRAS. Biographical Sketch of St. Pancras — Churches bearing his Name — Corruption of the Name— The Neighbourhood of St. Pancras in Former Times— Population of the Parish — Ancient Manors — Desolate Condition of the Locality in the Sixteenth Century — Notices of the Manors in Domesday Book and Early Surveys — The Fleet River and its Occasional Floods — The " Elephant and Castle" Tavern — The Workhouse — The Vestry — Old St. Pancras Church and its Antiquarian Associations — Celebrated Persons interred in the Churchyard — Ned Ward's Will— Father O'Leary— Chatterton's Visit tc the Churchyard— Mary Wollstoncroft Godwin — Roman Catholic Burials— St. Giles's Burial-ground and the Midland Railway — Wholesale Desecration of the Graveyards— The "Adam and Eve" Tavern and Tea-gardens — St. Pancras Wells — Antiquities of the Parish — Extensive Demolition of Houses for the Midland Railway 324

Chapter XXVI. Somer'

S TOWN AND EUSTON SQUARE. Gradual Rise and Decline of Somers Town— The Tlace largely Colonised by Foreigners— A Modern Miracle — Skinner Street— The Brill— A Wholesale Clearance 'of Dwelling-houses — Ossulston Street— Charlton Street — The " Coffee House "—Clarendon Square and the Polygon— Mary Wollstoncraft Godwin— The Chapel of St. s\loysius— The Abb** Carron— The Rev. John Nerinckx— Seymour Street— The Railway Clearing House — The Euston Day Schools— St. Mary's Episcopal Chapel — Drummond Street— The Railway Benevolent Institution— The London and North-Westem Railway Terminus— Euston Square— Dr. Wolcot (Peter Pindar)— The Euston Road— Gower Street— Sir George Rose and Jack Bannister— New St. Pancras Church— The Rev. Thomas Dale— Woburn Place . . . 340

Chapter XXVII. The Foundling Hospital And Neighbourhood

Establishment of the Hospital by Captain Coram in Hatton Garden— Its Removal to Lamb's Conduit Fields— Parliamentary Grant to the Hospital— Wholesale Admission of Children— Tokens for the Identification of Children deposited in the Hospital— Withdrawal of the Parliamentary Grant— Rules and Regulations— Form of Petition for the Admission of Children— Baptism of the Infants— Wet-nurses —Education of the Children— Expenditure of the Establishment— Extracts from the Report of the Royal Commission— Origin of the Royal Academy of Arts— Hogarth's Liberality to the Institution— His "March of the Guards to Finchley Common"— The Picture Gallery— The Chapel— Handel's Benefactions to the Hospital— Lamb's Conduit Fields— Biographical Notice of Captain Coram— Hunter Street— A Domestic Episode in High Life— Tonbridge Chapel— The British College of Health 356

Chapter XXVIII. Agar Town And The Midland Railway

Origin of the Midland Railway— Agar Town as it was — A Good Clearance — Underground Operation** for the Construction of the Midland Railway and Terminus — Re-interment of a Roman Catholic Dignitary — The Midland Railway — Mr. William Agar — Tom Sayers, the Pugilist — The English " Connemara" — A Monster Hotel — The Midland Terminus : Vast Size of the Roof of the Station— A Railway Goods Bank— The Imperial Gas Works— York Road 368

Chapter XXIX Holloway

The Work of an Amiable Hermit— Copenhagen Fields— The New Cattle Market — Our Meat Supply — The "Brecknock Arms" Tavern — Duel between Colonel Fawcett and Lieutenant Munro — The City Prison — The Camden Town Athenæum — The New Jerusalem Church — Holloway Congregational Chapel — Seven Sisters' Road— Holloway Hall — The Old " Half Moon " and " Mother Red Cap " Taverns — St. Saviour's Hospital and Refuge for Women and Children — St. John's Church — The ".\rchway" Tavern — Dangers of the Roads — Descendants of the Poet Milton— The Lazar House — The Small-pox Hospital — Whittington's Stone — Whittington's -Almshouses- Benefactions of Sir Richard Whittington 373

Chapter XXX. Highgate

Population of Highgate at the Commencement of the Century— The Heights of Highgate — The Old Roadway — Erection of the Gate- Healthiness of the Locality — Growth of London Northwards — Highgate Hill — Roman Catholic Schools — St. Joseph's Retreat — " Father Ignatius" — The "Black Dog" Tavern — K'.ghgate Infirmary — The " Old Crown" Tavern and Tea-gardens — Winchester Hall — Horasey Lane — Highgate Archway — The Archway Road — The "Woodman" Tavern — The Alexandra Orphanage for Infaats — .Asylum of the CONTENTS. IAOE Aged Pilgrims' Friend Society— Lauderdale House— Anecdote of Nell Gwynne— The Duchess of St. Albans— Andrew Marvell's Cottage— Cromwell House— Convalescent Hospital for Sick Children— Arundell Hous^— The Flight of Arabella Stuart— Death of Lord Cacon — Fairseat, the Residence of Sir Sydney Waterlow 3"9

Chapter XXXI. Highgate

(continued). Swaine's Lane— Traitors' Hill, or Parliament Hill- St. Anne's Church, Brookfield-Dr. Coysh— Highgate Cemetery— Arrangement of the Ground— The Catacombs— A Stroll among the Tombs— Eminent Persons buried here— Stray Notes on Cemeteries— Sir William -4shursCs Mansion— Charles Mathews, the Actor— Anecdotes of Mathews— Ivy Cottage— Holly Lodge, the Residence of Lady Burdett-Coutts— Holly Village— Highgate Ponds— The "Fox and Crown" Public-house— West Hill Lodge— The Hermitage 405

Chapter XXXII. Highgate

(continued). Charles Knight— Sir John Wollaston— The Custom of" Swearing on the Horns"— Mr. Mark Boyd's Reminiscence of this Curious Ceremonial— A Poetical Version of the Proceedings— Old Taverns at Highgate— The " Angel Inn"— The Sunday Ordinary— A Touching Story— The Chapel and School of Highgate— Tomb of Coleridge, the Poet— Sir Roger Choimeley, the Founder of the Grammar School— Southwood Lane— The Almshouses— Park House— St. Michael's Church-Tablet erected to Coleridge— Fitzroy House— Mrs. Caroline Chisholm— Dr. Sacheverel— Dorchester House— Coleridge's Residence— The Grove— Anecdote of Hogarth— Sir John Hawkins' House— A Proclamation in the Time of Henry VIII.— North Hill— The "Bull Inn" 413

Chapter XXXIII. Hornsey

Etymology of Homsey — Its Situation and Gradual Growth — The Manor of Hornsey — Lodge Hill — The Bishops' Park — Historical Memorabilia — The New River — Homsey Wood and " Homsey Wood House " — .An Incident in the Life of Crabbe — Finsbury Park — Appearance of this District at the Commencement of the Present Century — Mount Pleasant — Hornsey Church — The Grave of Samuel Rogers, Author of " The Pleasures of Memory " — A Nervous Man — Lalla Rookh Cottage — Thomas Moore — Muswell Hill — The Alexandra Palace and Park — Neighbourhood of Muswell Hill, as seen from its Summit — Noted Residents at Homsey — Crouch End ..... 428

Chapter XXXIV. Hampstead

— CAEN WOOD AND NORTH END. The Etymology and Early Hi-story of Hampstead—" Hot Gospellers "—The Hollow Tree— An Inland Watering-place — Caen Wood Towers — Dufferin Lodge — Origin of the Name of Caen (or Ken) Wood — Thomas Venner and the Fifth Monarchy Men — Caen Wood House and Grounds— Lord Mansfield— The House saved from a Riotous Attack by a Clever Ruse— Visit of William IV. — Highgate and Hampstead Ponds — The Fleet River — Bishop's Wood — The " Spaniards" — New Georgia— Erskine House — The Great Lord Erskine — Heath House — The Firs — North End — Lord Chatham's Gloomy Retirement— Wildwood House — Jackson, the Highwayman— Akenside— William Blake, the Artist and Poet— Coventry Patmore— Miss Meteyard— Sir T. Fowell Buxton— The " Bull and Bush" . . . 438

Chapter XXXV. Hampstead

{continued).— THE HEATH AND THE "UPPER FLASK". The View from the Heath— Attempted Encroachments by the Lord of the Manor — His Examination before a Committee of the House of Commons — Purchase of the Heath by the Metropolitan Board of Works as a Public Recreation-ground — The Donkeys and Donkey-drivers — Historic Memorabilia— Mr. Hoare's House, and Crabbe's Visits there — The Hampstead Coaches in Former Times — Dickens's Partiality for Hampstead Heath— Jack Straw's Castle— The Race-course — Suicide of John Sadleir, M.P. —The Vale of Health— John Keats, Leigh Hunt, .and Shelley — Hampstead Heath a Favourite Resort for Artists — Judge's Walk, or King's Bench Avenue — The " Upper Flask" — Sir Richard Steele -and the Kit-Kat Club — " Clarissa Harlowe" aaq

Chapter XXXVI. Hampstead

(continued).— THE TOWN. Description of the Town — Heath Street— The Baptist Chapel— White field's Preaching at Hampstead — The Public Library — Romney, the Painter — The " Hollybush"— The -Assembly Rooms— Agnes and Joanna Baillie — The Clock House — Branch Hill Lodge— The Fire Brigade Station— The " Lower Flask Inn"— Fhsk Walk— Fairs held there — The Militia Barracks— Mrs. Tennyson— Christ Church— The Wells— Concerts and Balls— Irregular Marriages— The Raffling Shops— Well Walk— John Constable — John Keats— Geological Formation of the Northern Heights a fe CH.<\PTER XXXVII. HAMPSTEAD (continued).— ITS LITERARY ASSOCIATIONS, &c. Church Row— Fashionable Frequenters ofthe Row '* in the Last Century — Dr. Sherlock — Dr. John Arbuthnot — Dr. Anthony Askew Dr. George Sewell— The Rev, Rochmont Barbauld— Mr. J. Park— Miss Lucy Aikin— Reformatory Schools— John Rogers Herbert Henry Fuseli— Hannah Lightfoot— Charles Dickens— Charles Knight— An Artistic Gift rejected by Hampstead— The Parish Church Repairs and Alterations in the Building — Eminent Incumbents— The Graves of Joanna Baillie, Si: T .

Mackintosh, John Constable Lord Erskine, and Others— St. Mary's Roman Catholic Chapel — Grove Lodge and Montagu Grove — -.. . Old Workhouse . a1\ CONTENTS. IX

Chapter Xxxviii. Hampstead

(continued) .—ROSSLYN HILL, &c. page Sailors' Orphan Girls' School and Home— Clarkson Stanfield— The Residence of the Longmans— Vane House, now the Soldiers' Daughters' Home — Bishop Butler — The "Red Lion" Inn— The Chicken House— Queen Elizabeth's House— Carlisle House— The Presbyterian Chapel— Mr. and Mrs. Barbauld— Rosslyn House — Lord Loughborough— Belsize Lane — Downshire Hill— Hampstead Green— Sir Rowland Hill— Sir Francis Palgrave— Kenmore House and the Rev. Edward Irving— St. Stephen's Church— The "George" Inn— The Hampstead Waterworks— Pond Street— The New Spa— The Small-pox Hospital— The Hampstead Town Hall— The " Load of Hay" —Sir Richard Steele's Cottage— Nancy Dawson— Moll King's House— Tunnels made under Rosslyn and Haverstock Hills . , . 483