Life in Russia: or, the Discipline of Despotism

Preface

. It is a singular fact, that in the middle of the nineteenth century, there is less known of Russia than of any other country, — most certainly, than of any other country in Europe, — and yet more is said of it, more obloquy is heaped upon it, and more unjust statements made concerning it than it deserves, with all its faults. Rumours take the place of facts, and in the estimation of the world, Russia is considered as an unapproachable limit, a kind of barrier to the advances of civilised Europe. Its stormy seas and cheerless climate deterred even the enterprise of commercial adventure, till within the last two hundred years ; and a similar prestige as regards private intercourse, seems now to affect the spirit of individual curiosity and observation. The author of the following pages has not the vanity to believe that his few slight sketches will supply all that is wanting of information on the A VI

PREFACE.

. subject of Russia, nor that the mere outline of facts and description of incidental scenes, conveyed in a familiar correspondence, will represent a perfect picture of the country; but still he hopes that what he has written may assist in giving a tolerable idea of the country and its inhabitants, and in forming just opinions of the Imperial system of government. London, 1848. CONTENTS.

Letter I

Impressions on visiting a Foreign Country. — Custine and Schnitzler. — Remarks on the Emperor Paul's Death. — Effects of Espionage and of National Jealousy. — Duties of a Traveller. — Character of the Russians. — Voyage to Hamburg. — Dutch Fishing Boat becalmed. — Discomforts of an English Steam Boat. — Road from Hamburg to Lubeck. — Lubeek. — Voyage up the Baltic Exchange of Steam Boats. — Violent Tornado. — Arrival at St. Petersburg. — Prohibition to land. — Absence of Passport Passengers confined under Guard. — Bribery and Escape. — Scene with Russian Officer. — Feelings of Constraint experienced by Travellers in Russia. — Examination by the secret Police - Page 1

Letter II

, Summer Nights in Russia. — Sleeping Villagers. — First Aspect of St. Petersburg. — Tyranny and Extortion. — Law of the Censorship. — Efficacy ofa Bribe. — Demoralising Effects of Despotism. — Ruling Principle of the Russians. — Prominent Features of St. Petersburg. — Streets and Squares Houses and Furniture The Winter Palace Singular Custom in Royal Residences. — The Czarovitch and Serfdom The Admiralty Square. — Monolith ofthe Emperor Alexander. — Statue of Peter the Great. — Sailor's Frolic Hotels and Boarding Houses. — Self-importance of emancipated Serfs 16

Letter III

" Paternal Government" of Russia. — Habits of the Emperor. — Servile Subjection and universal Venality of the Russians. A CONTENTS. — Punishment of Flogging. — Arbitrary Imprisonment. — Howard and other Philanthropists. — State of Prisons in Russia. — Siberia the Doom of the Condemned. — Fatal Consequences of imprisoning Witnesses. — Tyranny of the Police Page 34

Letter IV

Universal Dread of the Police Penalty of Imperial Condescension. — Irrational Usages. — Ceremony of blessing the Waters. — Religion of Russia. — Fasting in Lent and Feasting at Easter Russian Superstition and Fatalism - - 48

Letter V

Religion of Russia. — The Marriage Ceremony. — Funeral Rites. — The Passport to Heaven! — " Recollection Monday." — National Character influenced by Religion and Superstition. — Despotism defers to popular Prejudices. — Talent and Courage of the Emperor Nicholas. — He quells the Cholera Riots with a word. — Church Architecture of Russia. — Dark Complexions of Christ and the Virgin Mother. — Costume of Priests of the Greek Church ----- 59

Letter VI

Perilous Position of St. Petersburg. — Ambitious Policy of Russia. — Frequent Rise of the Neva. — Inundation of St. Petersburg. — Canals. — Bridges over tbe Neva. — Russian Venality. — Ice Fields. — Trotting-matches on the Ice. — Ice Hills. — English Ice-boat. — Ceremony of opening the River. — Gross Instance of petty Tyranny. — Ambition and Servility of the People Example of Russian " Discipline." — The Troubetzkoi Family. — Thermometers. — Phenomena of extreme Cold. — Drying Clothes by Frost. — Ruinous Effects of want of Snow. — Preparations for Whiter. — Magical Effects of Rime Frost. — Sledges. — Equipage of the Empress. — Costume of the Coachmen ------ COIN TENTS. IX

Letter VII

Difficulties of the Russian Language. — Shop-signs and Inscriptions. — Separate Quarters assigned to particular Trades. — Chemists regulated by the Police. — Striking Instance of Russian Servility. — Banquet at a Russian Club. — Immorality of Society in Russia. — Prevalence of Gambling. — Foundling Asylum. — Boy Soldiers The Army the only Source of Honours. — Pervading Influence of Russian Despotism Page 94

Letter VIII

Different Classes of Society defined by Law. — Tiers Etat of Russia. — Their Privileges and Composition. — Native Merchants classed under three Guilds. — Foreign Merchants. — Native Peasantry and Colonists. — Discharged Soldiers. — Emancipated Serfs. — Tribes of other Nations. — Serfs of the Soil. — Condition and Treatment of Serfs. — Recklessness of the Feudal Lords. — Famine among the Serfs. — Peculation of a Minister of State. — Embezzlement of English Subscription for the Sufferers at Moscow. ■ — Insurrection of Serfs Horrible Outrages Number of Serfs in Russia. — Taxes levied on them. — Exactions of the smaller Serf Owners. — Military Levy. — Custom of presenting Bread and Salt to the Emperor. — Asiatic Character of Russian Costumes - 107

Letter IX

Fire at St. Petersburg. — Fire Police. — Destruction and Confusion at a Conflagration. — Vastness the Bane of Russia. — — Police Regulations. — Russian Fire Insurance Companies. — Foreign Insurance prohibited. — Hollow Civilisation. — Feeling of Restraint. — Rapacity, Villany, and Perverseness of Policemen. — Knavery of Officials. — Adroitness of Thieves. — Demoralising Effects of Despotism - - - 1 25

Letter X

Privileges of Russian Nobility. — Orders and Decorations : of St. Andrew ; St. Alexander Nefski ; St. Anne ; St. George ; CONTENTS. X St. Vladimir; St. Catherine Profusion of crosses and medals. — Tact ofthe Emperor in bestowing Decorations. — His Title and Power.— Titles of Count Essen.— The Russ&n Empire a vast Dionysian Ear. — System of Espionage established by Count Benckendorf. — Hollownessand Instability ofthe Russian Government ------ Page 140

Letter XI

Absence of Bustle in St. Petersburg. — No private Warehouses. — Remoteness of Government Depots Obstructions to Trade. — The " Chinovniks," or Placemen. — Their Venality. — The " Artelchiks," or Messengers Their Fidelity. — Russian Joint Stock Bank proposed Evils of Monopoly. — Suicide of a Cabin Passenger Terror of the Captain of the Russian Authorities. — Smuggling extensively carried on. — Weak Defences of St. Petersburg. — Russia an inferior Naval Power. — Naval Cadets at St. Petersburg. — Russian Seamanship. — Characteristics of Russian Government Supreme Power of the Emperor ------ 152

Letter XII

Military Mania of the Emperor. — Sham Siege of St. Petersburg. — Annual Review of the Troops. — Majestic Bearing of the Emperor Vast Encampment and Review at Krasnoe Seloe. — Russian Cruelty to Animals. — The Troops at Evening Prayer. — Artillery Practice. — Sham Fight. — Simultaneous Advance of the whole Cavalry and Artillery. — Pageant in honour of the Princess of Mecklenburgh. — Grand Illumination of St. Petersburg. — Domestic Affections of the Emperor Nicholas. — Official Programme of the Ceremonial at the Marriage ofthe Grand Duchess Marie to the Duke de Leuchtenberg - - - - - - -164

Letter XIII

Palace of Peterhof. — Fete Day of the Empress Beauty of the Imperial Family. — • Levee of the People in the Palace. — Striking contrasts of Condition and Costume. — Nicholas CONTENTS. XI and Napoleon. — Festivities in the Gardens of Peterhof. — Aqueous Tree. — Imperial Promenade en voiture. — Russian mode of greeting the Sovereign Splendid Illumination of the Gardens. — Awful Hurricane and Catastrophe. — Sup pression of Facts by the Police. — Universal Duplicity and Faithlessness of the Russians. — Aristocratic and Autocratic Despotism Scrutinizing Suspicion in Society. — Depressing Influence of continual dread. — Fear the ruling Power in Russia Gloom and Mistrust prevalent - - Page 1 88

Letter XIV

Russia and Asia compared. — Sudden Rise of Russia. — Slow Growth of National Institutions. — Despotic and Republican Governments. — Russian Revolutions Policy ofthe Nobles. — Condition and Sufferings of the Serfs. — Despotism of the Landlords. — Premature Civilisation of Peter the Great. — Russian Prevarication on Capital Punishments. — The Knout. — "Running the Gauntlet," — Russian Inquisitiveness and Treachery. — Accidental Rencontre with the Emperor. — Gardens of Tsarskoe Selo. — Old Palace of the Empress Catherine Imperial Collections of Works of Art. — The Fine Arts in Russia. — Diplomatic Tact of the Russians. 202

Letter XV

Centralisation of Russia. — Supplies for the Capital. — Oxen of the Ukraine. — Frozen Market of St. Petersburg. — Loss from a Thaw. — Pyramids of frozen Grouse Division of Labour and Benefit. — Shipping Trade of Cronstadt Heavy Duties on Exports. — Railroads and Steam Communication introduced into Russia. — Exportation of Corn from Russia. — Prohibitory Duties on Imports Duties paid on Russian Produce by England. — Smuggling. — Barriers. — Influx of Adventurers to Russia. — Imperial Encouragement of Warlike Implements. — Bribery essential to Success. — Fraudulent Appropriation of the Ideas of Projectors. — Population of the Russian Empire. — Proportion of Serfs. — Standing Army. — Discipline of Despotism - - "219 CONTENTS.

Letter XVI

Russian Field Sports. — Wolf- Shooting. — Bear-Hunting. — Narrow Escape of a Sportsman. — An English " Leather- Stocking."— Elk Hunting— The Lynx.— The White Fox.— Common Foxes. — White and other Hares Grouse, Water- Fowl. — Russia a rich Field for the Naturalist. — Furs. — In-door Dress Marriage Mart on Whit-Monday. — An- Dual Promenade Days - Page 232

Letter XVII

Journey to Moscow. — Travelling in Russia. — Extortions of Postmasters. — Rugged Roads. — Government Couriers. — Introduction of Railways into Russia premature. — A Measure of Imperial Policy. — Moscow nationally the Capital of the Empire. — Its striking Aspect and historical Importance.— Burning of Moscow not premeditated. — Disclaimer ofthe Emperor Alexander. — Rostopchin's Denial of Complicity. — Road to Moscow. — Parallel Road to Novgorod. — Rate and Mode of Travelling. — Melancholy Aspect of the Country. — Stunted Trees and Cattle. — Absence of Scenery. — Scanty Population. — Log Houses. — Sleeping on Stoves, or in the Open Air. — Monotonous Aspect of the Villages. — Gipsies. — Dress of the Female Peasants. — Waist above the Bosom. — Novgorod, — Tver. — Torjok. — Skill of Russian Drivers.

Trains of Telegas. — Flocks of Ravens. — Abundance of Game. — Superstitious Prejudices against eating Hares and Pigeons. — Food of Tartars and Russians. — Edible Toadstools. — Distant View of Moscow - 244

Letter XVIII

Moscow. — The Kremlin. — Reflections. — Difference of Manners between Moscow and St. Petersburg. — Miraculous Picture. — Holy Gate of the Kremlin. — View of Moscow from the Terrace. — Bizarre Architecture of the Churches. — Cathedral of St. Basil. — The Kremlin the Heart of Moscow. — Tower of Ivan Veliki Ancient Palace of the Czars. — An- CONTENTS. XIII cient Military Accoutrements. — Costumes and Equipages of the Czars. — Thrones, Crowns, and Sceptres of conquered Monarchs. — Church ofthe Assumption. — Canonized Pictures. — Image Worship. — Ludicrous Paintings of Scripture Sub jects. — Political Use of Superstition by Peter the Great. — Childlike Treatment of Patron Saints - - Page 261

Letter XIX

Fascination of the Kremlin. — Windsor Castle and the Kremlin compared. — The Mart of Moscow. — Bargaining. — The Tchot, or Calculating Machine. — Recreation of Shopkeepers in Moscow. — Tea-drinking in Russia. — Diet of the Common People. — Oriental Aspect of Moscow. — Gipsy Singers. — Foundling Asylum. — Immense Riding Schools. — Russian Roofe. — Newness of the City. — Burning of Moscow described. — Attempt to blow up the Kremlin by the French. — Horrors ofthe Retreat from Moscow. — Treatment of French Prisoners. — Banishment to Siberia. — Russian Exile and English Transportation compared. — Prison of sentenced Exiles. — Prison Visitors. — Departure of Prisoners for Siberia. — Effects of the Knout. — Dr. Haas, the Russian Howard. — Persecutions ofthe Jews, — Affecting Scene of a Jewish Family in Prison. — Arbitrary Power of the Officials. — Departure from Moscow - 276

Letter XX

Return to St. Petersburg. — Overflowing of the Volga. — Travelling at Speed. — Mosquitoes. — Scenery round St. Petersburg. — Russian Love of Flowers. — Botanical Gardens on Apothecary's Island. — Rigours of the Climate. — Rise of the Neva. — Official Treatment of Inventors. — The Emperor, the Centre of the Industrial System. — His Liberality. — Extortion by the Authorities. — The Russian Senate. — Government Monopoly of Spirits. — Russian Drunkards. — Incessant Salutes ofthe Guard on Duty. — The Almaek's of St. Petersburg. — Dangerous Masquerade Frolic. — Imperial Practical CONTENTS. XIV Joke. — Female Flattery of the Emperor — Wit and Bonhommie of the Grand Duke Michael - - - Page 298

Letter XXI

Voyage to Revel. — Russian Ladies in search of Sea Air. — Exclusiveness on Board the Steamer. — Obsequious Intruder. — The Russian Fleet. — Situation of Revel. — Unburied Corpse of a Ducal Debtor. — Scenery of Helsingfors. — Passage to Abo. — Tranquil Scene. — Home Associations. — A Night on a Garden Bench. — Views from the Observatory of Abo. — Labyrinth of Islets. — Aland. — Ceremonious Reception. — Russian Possession of Aland. — Vicissitudes ofthe Seasons. — Arrival at Stockholm. — Paper Currency of Stockholm. — Twopence-halfpenny Notes. — Pouches for Paper-money. — Palace at Stockholm. — Island Suburbs. — Scenery. — Appearance of Stockholm. — The Ridderholm. — Tombs of Gustavus Adolphus and Charles the Twelfth. — Clothes of Charles the Twelfth. — Opinions as to his Death. — Character and Career of Bernadotte. — ■ His Person and Mode of Life. — Policy of the Russian Emperor. — Romance of Regality. — Dronningholm. — Veneration for Linnæus. — Decorations of the Palace 311

Letter XXII

„ Inducements to visit Sweden. — Character of the Swedes. — Similarity of Swedish and Scotch Accent. — Laborious Occupations ofthe Women. — Andrew Bergland, the Valet-de place. — Fine View of Stockholm. — The Park. — Market-people. — Fishing-boats.— Swedish Viands. — A Gale on the Wener Lake. — The Gotha Canal. — Falls of Trolhatten. — Salmon of the Lake and the River. — Scenery along the Canal. — Mr. Lloyd's Residence. — Gottenburg. — Russian Travellers ------- LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Plate I. Eussian Ice Hills - - Frontispiece. Vignette. Droshky Drivers - - Titlepage. Guiding the Sledge - - page 83 Sledge used on Ice-hills - - 93 Police Station, or Siege - - 126 Policeman's House - - 139 Plate II. Russian Military Encamp ment ... - to face page 170 Vignette. Illumination Device - - page 187 Plate ELL Sledge passing a Barrier - to face page 228 Plate IV. Perilous Situation of a Russian Sportsman ... to face page LIFE IN RUSSIA.

Letter I

Impressions on visiting a Foreign Country. — Custine and Schnitzler. — Remarks on the Emperor Paul's Death. — Effects of Espionage and of National Jealousy. — Duties ofa Traveller. — Character ofthe Russians. — Voyage to Hamburg. — Dutch Fishing Boat becalmed. — Discomforts of an English Steam Boat. — Road from Hamburg to Lubeck. — Lubeck. — Voyage up the Baltic. — Exchange of Steam Boats. — Violent Tornado. — Arrival at St. Petersburg. — Prohibition to land. — Absence of Passport. — Passengers confined under Guard. — Bribery and Escape. — Scene with Russian Officer. — Feelings of Constraint experienced by Travellers in Russia. — Examination by the secret Police. Our first impressions on visiting a foreign country are generally vague and unsettled ; an indefinable kind of excitement, in fact, prevents our seeing things in their true light, and with that distinct ness which custom alone can produce.

Habit, perhaps, blunts the keenness of our observation, and familiarity may blind us to many singularities of manners and customs ; yet if less be told in consequence, that little is at all events divested of exaggeration, and of all false tone and colouring. B CUSTINE AND SCHNITZLER. After several visits to the north, therefore, I ought to be in a position to give a correct idea of the country and its inhabitants, without treading in the steps of my predecessors, whose descriptions we have read together, or running the risk of repetition. Le Marquis de Custine is, perhaps, the only author who has treated of Russia en vrai phi losophe; and his work, although tinged with too much of the amour propre peculiar to his nation, (to say nothing of a foolish fear for his personal safety, which possessed him,) may be pronounced the most able critique of the Russian system that has appeared.

Schnitzler is the only other writer who can be quoted as an authority ; and the ample opportunities he enjoyed, enabled him to furnish as perfect a statistical history as the re strictive operation of the most vigilant censor ship would allow. A remarkable instance of the power of suppressing the details of notorious events which the Russian Government exercises upon occasion, is afforded by the fact, that in an affair so comparatively recent as the assassination of the Emperor Paul, and even while some of the chief actors in the scene still survive, so many versions of the deed should be afloat ; and that history (that is, Russian history) does not breathe a syllable on the subject, beyond stating with Jesuitical refinement, that he " ceased to live." The human mind in Russia may be compared EFFECTS OF ESPIONAGE. 3 to a filtering funnel, in the broad capacity of which, natural ideas and opinions find ample space, but are so strained off and frittered away in passing through the narrow aperture, that the original ingredients are not even recognisable.

From the reserve habitually inculcated by des potism, and the discipline to which the tongue has been brought by the terrors of a most subtle and ubiquitous system of espionage, it is impossible for the mere transient visitor to arrive at just conclusions or to ascertain real facts : the face of society, trained and disciplined, is like the mirror, which, reflecting only the external aspects of things, must be divested of its opaque lining if we wish to extend our vision. The difference in manners and customs is obvious to the idle tourist who travels only for the ex citement of change ; but as these tend materially to form the character of the people, they are not to be characterised truly according to first im pressions. Hence the difficulty of writing at all about Russia ; and hence the many false deduc tions that have been drawn from appearances by those who have ventured on this theme.

The first duty of a traveller is, I conceive, to gain some insight into the character and habits of the people he is about to visit, by making himself master of the best writers on the subject : not to depend entirely upon them, as if they were merely showmen at an exhibition, nor to allow his b CHARACTER OP THE RUSSIANS. opinions to be formed by others, as is the case with pseudo-politicians in reading the leading article of a newspaper; but to prepare himself, in some measure, against the effects of surprise, and those errors of judgment which ensue from the novelty of position and circumstances. Habit has neutralised these effects in me ; and the doubt only remains whether I have not become so familiarised with the change of character, usages, and manners, as to cease to observe those dif ferences which no longer startle.

Indeed, I could so readily naturalise myself in Russia, that I am more likely to fall into the other extreme, and describe those things as natural and habitual which, in fact, form the very contrasts that dis tinguish one nation from another. As regards the character of the Russians, I have read much, and observed more, and incline to the belief that Schnitzler's account of them is just and correct : at all events, it tallies so exactly with my own impressions, that I shall use his words in describing it. " The Russian nation has preserved to a great extent the qualities and defects of a people not yet civilised ; but it by no means deserves to be described as a race of slaves, bowed down by the rod, and incapable of generous feelings. " The Russian is good, obliging, officious, and remarkably hospitable : his natural politeness, though flowing from the immense distance be- CHARACTER OF THE RUSSIANS. 5 tween him and the aristocracy, and the humility which that rank imposes on him, gives him a certain style, which sits well upon him : he is gay, active, jolly, and even gaillard, and his phy siognomy betokens intelligence.

He is daring even to rashness, and passive to the last degree. If he possesses but little perseverance, still his firmness in moments of need is equal to any trial. Insensible to fear, he is rarely embarrassed : quick at repartee, and with abundant common sense, his fertile genius never leaves him at a loss for resources ; and with a thousand expedients at his command, his dexterity in employing them is astonishing. Obedient to the laws of his country, however oppressive they may be, he is faithful to his sovereign and devoted to his country, which he is proud of, and, in his ignorance, considers superior to all others on the globe. Religious and exact in his devotions, and in the duties prescribed by the church, he is liberal in his gifts to the poor, and honours the memory of the dead with the most scrupulous regard.

He addresses his seigneur without fear or intimida tion, and even with a degree of boldness. He is eloquent, and his language, metaphorical and winning, approaches even to the poetical, while his familiar allocutions of " little father," " charming little nurse," molitvenna'ia Karmilitsa, breathe the kindest feeling. On the other hand, it must be confessed that his heart conceals the most violent ii CHARACTER OF THE RUSSIANS. passions, which, fearful when they burst forth, destroy every feature of that goodness of heart which is so characteristic of the Russian. His natural politeness and superiority of manner yield to a brutality which betrays itself by the most coarse and vulgar language : in this paroxysm of rage the barbarian stands confessed in full force. His oaths excel in coarseness those of other nations, and, fruitful in invective, each one more disgusting than the last, he vomits them forth with the more intensity that violence or blows are seldom had recourse to.

With his face flushed, and his gesticulation animated by a brutal energy, no consideration can stop the fearful and entire display of the uncivilised savage. " Nevertheless his apparent pride humbles itself at the least prospect of profit : he kisses the skirts of the coat, or the arms of those he supplicates ; he touches the earth with his hands as a proof of his submission, and will not hesitate to pro sternate himself at the feet of those who have any authority over him. The love of gain is his god; his activity is boundless, and to satisfy it at the least possible cost, he will sacrifice his natural pride, his good faith, and even his mo rality, if his ignorance permits him to know the meaning of the word." Madame de Stael, in her work, " Dix Annees d'Exil," says with great truth, that theft is as much to be looked for as hospitality : " Us vous donnent comme ils vous VOYAGE TO HAMBURG. prennent, selon que la ruse ou la generosite parle a leur imagination."

They are thus the more dangerous, because, inexhaustible in artifice, they conceal their cunning under the mask of honesty and good humour, which easily deceives. In a word, the character of the Russians is that of a people energetic and gifted by nature, but on whom instruction has not yet exercised her sway, and to whom an enlightened philosophy has not yet given an elevated feeling. It is easy to fore see the position they will one day hold, for they possess all the qualities necessary to make a great people, with the exception, perhaps, of that depth of feeling, to which a mind too devoted to traffic, and of too speculative a turn, can seldom attain. But here I am in " the bowels of the land," and writing you a long essay on the people before I tell you how I got here. I shall therefore resume the subject in a future letter.

Neptune was propitious, and we crossed the North Sea in an uninterrupted calm, making the passage to Hamburg in fifty-four hours. A Dutch fishing smack lay becalmed direct in our course, broiling under an intense heat, and unable to display a signal from the perfect stillness of the air. The shouting of the crew for assistance induced our skipper to slacken his speed and to send a boat to board them. It turned out that they had been thus becalmed for the two days previous, and had expended all their water and bread. b ROAD FROM HAMBURG TO LUBECK. A supply was of course despatched to them, and they in return loaded us with turbots and dorees, which during the remainder of the voyage formed an epicurean treat for dinner and breakfast. The perfection in these fish consists in boiling them in sea water.

There is a coarseness at the tables of English steamboats which is extremely disagreeable : it partakes too much of the mode of living habitual to the captain, who furnishes the table, and who believes that massive joints and plenty of them are the perfection of good taste. The representation of an eighteenpenny ordinary is misplaced on board ship, where delicacy and cleanliness alone should be found. In foreign steamboats, it is perfectly possible to forget for the moment that you are not seated at a well-appointed table d'hote. The Baltic steamers leave Lubeck, or rather Travcmunde, on every Saturday afternoon precisely at three o'clock ; there is consequently but just sufficient time before you to traverse the distance between that place and Hamburg, and, till lately, the road was so disgracefully bad that even that was barely possible.

A new and shorter road has, however, been constructed, but too late to benefit the now ruined fortunes of Lubeck, for, in order to divert the trade from the Elbe to his own ports, the King of Denmark has laid down a railroad from Altona to Kiel. The bed of the LUBECK. 9 Trave is filling up, the trade of the city is de clining, and thus " Troja suit " would be a more becoming motto over its gates th.an the bombastic one which still exists, as if in mockery. History, however, will record the name of Lubeck for the valiant defence of its citizens against the attack of the French, and for the last stand made there by Blucher after his masterly retreat in 1806. Lubeck is a striking instance of the effect of social and elemental revolutions on local prosperity. She was undoubtedly at one period the queen of the Baltic — the Venice of the north — and the aisles of the Marie Kirche chronicle her sway on the tablets, or rather monuments, erected to the memory of her departed admirals.

These memorials are piled high against the pillars in all the pride of carved emblazonry, surrounding mostly a portrait of the hero himself, and nar rating a fulsome catalogue of deeds, important only in the estimation of the man who performed them. One, however, is remarkably significant, and strangely imagined. At its base — as if having partially clambered up the pillar, on part of which it rests — a skeleton, with outstretched arm, and holding a sponge, is in the act of blotting out the recorded inscription. I forget the date, but a few short years have already as much erased the name from the page of history as if the allegory itself had been fulfilled. In a side chapel is the celebrated picture of the VOYAGE UP THE BALTIC. Dance of Death, by Albrecht Diirer. It is the singularity of the idea rather than the execution which stamps it as a work of genius : but though it occupies three sides of the chapel, yet, being in a bad light, and obscured with dirt, it loses its real importance.

The steeples of all the churches — and they are mostly lofty, pointed, slated, twin structures — lean at an angle of many feet : I think in one instance of eight, and another of thirteen. Whe ther this was caused by a sinking of the soil, or whether they were originally built at an inclina tion, like the falling tower of Pisa, I know not. Lubeck is the abode of dulness ; the cause of which I have already explained. In a few years it will resemble those ancient sea-ports, since become inland towns, which we have in England, par ticularly on the coast of Kent. Favoured by the same serenity of weather, we made a quick run up the Baltic, and reached Cronstadt in eighty-four hours ; and not one hour too soon. I have been on the Baltic when its surface was so glassy smooth that the ripple caused by the settling of a bird on its surface could be seen ; I have been on it in snow and frost, in fog and in storm; but I never had witnessed such a tornado as that which swept over us shortly after we anchored.