Beyond the Sierras; or, observations on the Pacific Coast

Front matter

CASON SCENE — FEATHER RIVER Beyond the Sierras; OR, OBSERVATIONS ON THE PACIFIC COAST. BY REV. A. H. TEVIS, A.M., AUTHOR OF "JESUITISM, THE BIBLE, AND THE SCHOOLS." "A wide domain of mysteries And signs that men misunderstand ! A land of space and dreams ; a land Of sea-salt lakes and dried-up seas ! A land of caves and caravans, And lonely wells and pools." — Joaquin Miller, PHILADELPHIA: J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO., 1877- Copyright, 1877, by J. B. LlPPINCOTT & Co. TO THE MEMORY OF HON. WIRT HOPKINS, LATE ASSAYER U. S. MINT, CARSON CITY, NEVADA, ONE OF THE BEST FRIENDS EARTH EVER GAVE ME, WHOSE HAND PENNED SOME OF THESE PAGES, AND WHOSE MANLY HEART, COMMON SENSE, AND PERSONAL FAVORS SHOWN ME AND MINE, WILL NEVER BE FORGOTTEN WHILE LIFE LASTS, THIS VOLUME IS FAITHFULLY DEDICATED. PREFATORY. This volume is presented to the reader, not claiming any profundity or very rare features, but as an answer, somewhat, to the numerous inquiries that have been made of me regarding the Pacific Coast.

The climate, the hard times, and the overcrowded population of the Eastern States have turned the thoughts of thousands toward this part of the United States. Here the climate is near perfection, times are easier than in the East, and the population is not crowded, hence this country may well claim the attention of the people. But California is not Paradise ; it has its delights, it is true, but it certainly has its objections, — some of which have been alluded to in the following pages. It has been my design to give such information as I have found by experience that a person wants when he arrives on these shores. Of course, this PREFA TOR Y. book does not " contain it all," but it does contain such as I could get in the time allotted. I do not beg mercy for this volume, — " what is writ is writ."

Silly critics need not be seared, and sensible ones are always charitable. I am under obligations to the late Hon. Wirt Hopkins, A.M., for many suggestions, as well as for some of the pages contained in this book. Had not death taken him away, this volume would have possessed additional interest, for he would have contributed very largely to its pages. A residence of a quarter of a century on this coast and his literary ability well fitted him for the work. Some of the accounts given of vegetable productions, etc., will seem like unfounded exaggerations. Many of them are exceptions, but they are given to show what can be done by one of the greatest countries the sun ever shone upon. There is no doubt of the wonderful features of the Pacific Coast, but whether the reader will ever see or enjoy them must depend entirely upon him self.

Chapter I

A REMOTE STATE. " You are not for obscurity designed." — Dryden. It is a common saying that this is an age of such intellectual advancement that a cosmopolitan world is made a neighborly community. That really does very well for a sentence to weave into a florid Fourth-of-July speech, but does not contain facts, nor reliable information to a reasonable de gree. Science has made such advancement that, politi cally and commercially, nations are near each other. But lightning express trains, and rapid ocean travel and even telegraphy, and daily journals, rich with news, greeting us at early breakfast, do not always bring adjoining counties into very close acquaintanceship, much less remote a* States and countries. We are blessed with much information that is quite reliable of all discovered parts of the world, while of the minutiæ of topog raphy, geography, the social and intellectual character of the people, and a thousand and one other things of a given section, we may know but little.

We study self-interest much more than history or science, hence we are much better informed in matters that pertain to our individual benefit than the general condition of the world. It is said Americans live close together in feelings and interests. This must be taken with a grain of allowance, for thousands care little or nothing and know nothing of men and things be yond their own door-yard. The maps lay down a section of country of 200,000 square miles between the 32d and 43d parallels of latitude, and 114th and 124th degrees of longitude, and label it California. The pupil at school is taught that it was and is yet, to a limited extent, " the land of gold," and that it is bounded on the west by the Pacific Ocean, and on other sides by certain States and a territory. But of the State, and the whole Pacific slope — of the topography, climatic character, mineral wealth, agricultural features and advantages, isothermal influences, etc., comparatively little is known.

Invalids come to enjoy the climate, having heard A REMOTE STATE. 11 of it as a near relation to the early character of the Garden of Eden. Tourists, many of whom come as the result of a long desire to "take a trip," irre spective of information, rush hither and thither, " doing up" the entire coast in a few brief weeks, and, having an imperfect knowledge of everything, go home with overdrawn ideas, or else have in formation short of the facts. A gentleman of New York — a lawyer of some prominence — once writing to me for information, said, " We know no more in detail of the Pacific coast than we do of some parts of Asia." It seemed hyperbolical, yet no doubt was true. A professor in one of the leading universities of the West addressed the writer a letter in which he spoke of " Nevada territory" when the State had been organized at least thirteen years.

We do not say that persons are to be severely censured for the want of this knowledge, because it is impossible for any but an idiot to know every thing, but it plainly indicates the lack of informa tion concerning the Pacific coast. Though it be professors and professional men that so greatly err, we must not so much blame as assist, considering the subject. The history of the entire extent of country west of the Rocky Mountains is a very interesting one. The Great Salt Lake is to-day no doubt the remnant of one vast inland sea that originally covered thousands upon thousands of square miles. The geological evidences in the ranges of mountains are of the most indubitable character, sub stantiating the theory of a sea once covering the waste lowlands of Utah and Eastern Nevada. In the highlands of the latter State there are evidences almost everywhere of volcanic action, which was no doubt the prime agent in shaping its present physical aspect.

Of California even stranger theories have been held. How curious that this State, with its mountains and fertile valleys, should ever have been called an island, whereas to-day there is but a poor evidence of it ever having been even a first-class peninsula ! There are evidences that the ocean once covered many places that are inland to-day, yet to our thinking there are poor indications that the State was entirely isolated by the waters of the sea. But such was the fact two hundred years ago, or at any rate such was the idea held at that not very remote period. About two centuries ago, a history of America was written by one John Ogilby, in which he says, "We shall close up our discourse of these islands that lie north of the Equinoctial Line, with a dis course of California, especially so-called, which was by many thought and described to be a peninsula, A REMOTE STATE. 13 or half island, by reason of the bay which divides it from Quivivian and New Gallacia towards the north, runneth much narrower than it doth south erly, which made them think that somewhere or other at the north it was joined to the main land of America.

But later discoveries have found it to be a perfect island, and altogether separate from the continent. . . ." This is a fact in connection with the history of California, if fact it is, that sounds strangely to many students of the geography of this coast. California was of no special interest to the United States till after the close of the Mexican War, when it was ceded to our government by the terms of the treaty of peace. Even then by many states men it was thought to be of little value, save as a coast defence. Gold had not been discovered, the vast and incomparable resources of these rich plains had not been developed, and the beneficial effects of the climate had not been thought of. But succeeding events, with which the reader is familiar, brought the .coast prominently before the eye of the world, and in comparatively close relationship with the other territories and States.

But the attention given has been mainly towards the leading features of the coast, rather than the mi nutiæ of the State. It is but little known that in almost every sense there is an essential difference between this and the other States of the Union, — that in many of the habits and customs the people are unlike, while in the natural characteristics there is as great or greater dissimilarity. How few, aside from those that have lived or visited here, have a proper idea of the natural advantages, climate, soil, and the artificial develop ments that are enjoyed in this land of bright sun shine and gold. It is not known by the masses that here can be found all the climates of the known world, while almost everything the world produces can be found within the limits of the State. California is "part and parcel" of the great sisterhood of States ; but it is not felt and realized like in the States of the East, unless it be by the politicians of the coast, whose philanthropy makes them desire to " serve" the country for their country's good.

And we doubt if they feel any very great amount of patriotism prompting them at times. It is so far away from the seat of government in the East, and from the various matters that stir and interest the people of other States, that the feelings of relationship and sympathy are comparatively weakened. As much of the spirit of loyalty, perhaps, prevails here as in the average State if it were aroused. But distance and relative isolation have dulled the keen interest that is felt in the various localities of the East. Business, aims, ambition, feelings, sympathies, thoughts are A REMOTE STATE. 15 greatly localized in this country, and are directed to developments that pertain alone to this coast. Hundreds of miles intervene between the great family of the body politic in the Atlantic States and the relatively small branch on the Pacific ; and the pulsations of sympathetic life are kept in motion by a few telegraph wires and a single rail road, which public highway has no more feelings in common with the interests of the East or West, aside from the aggrandizement of their own "ring," than they have with the development of the sugar plantations of Eouisiana.

And then, geographical lines and topographical features add to the felt idea, so to speak, of the remoteness. Does not this State lie on a far-off and relatively unknown coast? And does it not retain yet in the hearts of its native population a feeling of at least interest in the land where it used to belong — Mexico? And are there not great mountain chains, whose summits reach into the everlasting snows, that lie between this State and the interests and associations of the East ? And do not these add to the idea of remoteness that is felt by all ? These are the very barriers that prevent many from moving to this coast, whose greatest desire is to find a land of such delightful climate and incomparable resources as California.

Chapter II

"SHALL I GO TO THE PACIFIC COAST?" " Let the end try the man." — SHAKSPEARE. In answering this oft-repeated question, I shall endeavor to be concise, and at the same time definite. First, if a poor man, and you can make a living at home, stay there. The reasons for this are many, all of which need not be mentioned to reveal the philosophy of the advice given. The immense mineral resources of the coast are mostly in the hands of the moneyed few, and nearly nothing is left for individual exertion, as in the palmy days of the " gold excitement." It is somewhat so with agriculture. Although there are immense tracts of government land un occupied, the scarcity of water, difficulty of access, and other causes, render not a small amount of capital absolutely necessary to enable a man to bring such land under cultivation.

The same is true in very many branches of business to a degree. The expenses of living in certain remote sections are much greater than in SHALL I GO TO THE PACIFIC COAST? Xj the East; and, by the way, in some places not very remote, too. And although the major part of our population to-day earn their living by their daily toil, it is very frequently next to impossible for a stranger from east of the Rocky Mountains, unless he have friends to help him, to obtain employment of any kind immediately. The reason for this is plain. The methods of doing business are so entirely different, and the kinds of work so new, that a new-comer can hardly earn his board for his employer. Consequently, it is best not to hastily, nor unthoughtedly, follow the advice of the late Horace Greeley, and " go west."

It is a long ways from the East to Cali fornia, and many things are met that are not pleasant or lucrative. If you are determined, and have will sufficient to stem the tide of the various op posing elements that will meet you, you will be safe in coming to the Pacific. There is no doubt that if, with these qualities, a man have a small amount of ready money, and goes into any branch of business with which he is acquainted and to which he is adapted, and will keep a modicum of the frugality and economy supposed to have been taught him in his youth, a reasonable success is about as certain as taxation. In all lines of trade on this coast the old prov erb, " He who by the plough would thrive," etc., holds true in every instance. A man must work, 2* either with hands or brain, and if with both, so much the better.

Drones never thrive in the West. Instances by the thousand could be given to the point where men, with very little money, have in a few years accumulated a competency, if not wealth, and I cannot recall a single instance of a failure unless there were good causes, such as drunkenness, laziness, or a propensity for some species of gambling. This does not apply to any one branch of business alone, but to all alike; pre-supposing, of course, that a man will not undertake or engage in anything of which he has not at least a little knowledge, if not experience. And here it is well to state that a cause of serious trouble to many has been a desire to engage in some line of business of which they knew nothing whatever. A personal friend of the writer, who was a fine mechanic, and who had capital enough to have given him a good start in his legitimate business, after arriving, said he " did not come to California to work at the bench or retail his merchandise."

He went into the drug business, and at the end of the first year he was able to sell out his stock with the loss of half his capital. He then went into the manufacture of matches, which in less than a year brought him to the position meant by that significant word SHALL I GO TO THE PACIFIC COAST f ICj "broke." With no money, he came down to first principles, went to work at his trade, and is now a wealthy wholesale dealer in New York City. Whatever talent Providence may have endowed you with, it is best to cultivate that, and not rush after the impossible until you can financially afford it, for education, even that of experience, costs money here. For instance, if you were of the farm " to the manor born," it is best to remain one until independence shall have been achieved in that vocation.

Every one in starting for the Pacific coast should make certain resolutions that are as unalterable as the laws of the Medes and Persians. First, never touch spirituous liquors. Leave drinking to the pioneers of '49, many of whose throats have be come case-hardened. Remember the bane of Cal ifornia is wineand brandy-drinking. Millions of gallons of intoxicating liquors are manufactured every year, and millions and millions of money are squandered by drink. You cannot compromise with th:s habit here and remain temperate and fortunate. Do not try to beat a professional gambler out of his coin. You will not succeed, even if he seem to be drunk, for he never is. Live by all means economically, and whatever may be your receipts, try to save part of them. Fully make up your mind before starting what you intend to engage in, and then do that and nothing else.

Vacillation is ex pensive. This work is intended to afford reliable information, sufficient for your direction, in selecting a location for a home. Above all, unless wealthy, let mining enterprises of all kinds alone, for it is far better to let millionaires draw the blanks, and they are legion in comparison with the prizes. One great cause of disappointment to the immigrant is a wrong idea, fostered by articles written by land-sharks and others who are financially interested in encouraging immigration, giving false, or at least overdrawn accounts of the chances and facilities for making money enjoyed by residents of the Pacific coast. We would not, upon the other hand, discourage any one, nor depreciate the facilities and chances in this country. There are good opportunities, and very much that is charming, but each man, as a rule, should be his own adviser and agent in all financial matters, so far as financial speculations are concerned.

This book is not written in the inter est of any speculator or real estate manipulator. We have, in some instances, given statements that seem to be highly colored, if not incredible. But we have given them because they are facts, and show what the country is capable of doing. The truth is, that here the same energy is required, and the same industry essential, as in other SHALL I GO TO THE PACIFIC COAST? 2I parts of the world. And, indeed, I am inclined to think it requires more, for here it is either success or failure financially. This portion of the world has steep hills, and a man on the down track moves very rapidly. A medium in prosperity or adversity is not the rule, we are inclined to think. A strong point in favor of California is, that a competency is gained, if gained at all, before old age has destroyed the faculty for enjoying the fruits of one's labor.

I have not yet heard of a case of any man who understood the business in which he was engaged, and followed it for five or six years, starting free from debt, who did not become independent in all cases except mining, which is an exceedingly ille gitimate legitimate business. Debts are ruinous, particularly from the high rate of interest, which, with the best security (real estate), ranges, according to the locality, from one to three per cent, per month. No map should entertain the thought for a moment of starting in business on borrowed cap ital, unless he entertains the unfortunate idea that " he has nothing to lose and all to gain." It may at least prove very unfortunate to the person of whom he borrows the capital. Better, by far, for his own personal feelings, his credit, his family, his all, to start in some humble business, and work his way up on capital that he knows is his oivn.

It may be said to all in general, but agricultur ists in particular, that there is plenty of room, as may be seen by reference to the account given of San Bernardino County alone. Land monopolists are in the way of immigration, but these will of necessity yield to the pressure as time rolls on, and their vast possessions will be subdivided. Land is abundant and of the best quality. There are a limited number of machine-shops and factories for the mechanic, rivers and bays for the sailor, and unlimited underground workings for the miner. There is also a laborious and ripe field for the minister, and unlimited number of children for the teacher, and quibblings and crime to be settled by the lawyer, and sickness, notwithstanding the wonderful climate, to be cured or increased by the physician.

Chapter III. Loss Or Gain, Why

? " No help nor hope nor view had I, nor person to befriend me, So I must toil and sweat and broil and labor to sustain me ; To plough and sow, to reap and mow, my father bred me early ; For one, he said, to labor bred, was a match for fortune fairly." We have our adaptations in mental ballast, physical strength, moral force, financial ability, etc. By these is the determination to triumph made absolutely successful. Success in the broad est acceptation of the term depends upon these possessions. Laws of adaptation run through all the woof and web of human experience. You may denominate it a divine " call," as that held by the orthodox ministry. Why not ? It does no injus tice to man or dishonor to God, surely. The min istry, doubtless, saves more souls, but certainly does not fill a greater area in "God's plan than the conscientious farmer or honest laborer.

Adapta tion is the great desideratum after all, and the really successful man cannot eliminate any of the elements mentioned in the beginning of this chap ter. The Rothschilds have been but partially successful, because they have succeeded only in finances. But they have grandly succeeded there, because adapted to financial manipulations. A. T. Stewart made a successful merchant, but mayhap he would have failed as a farmer. This is a di versified world. Various temperaments, various climates, various causes, having their various effects, are observed everywhere, and wise is he who joins affinities. Thousands have been lured to these shores by the glowing accounts given of this country, while thousands of others, because of adverse circum stances rendering it impossible for them to come, have "Sat and gazed and wondered" in a spirit of bitter disappointment, because they, too, could not come.

Many have been fortunate in not being able to come, and many unfortunate because they are here. All changes should be made with reference to some legitimate end ; never change for change sake. True, it is said that " change of pasture fattens cattle," but 4J is the pasture that gives the increase, and not the mere change. Change some times takes from close provender to no provender at all. Thousands utterly fail in this country, and go back eastward breathing out anathemas against the country and people, not because there was nothing worth gaining, but because they never had a well-defined idea of what they wanted to gain, or any adaptation for the special means of livelihood that chance to be open. We have already intimated that under certain conditions some need hardly expect success on the Pacific coast until there shall have been a radical change in the ways of business and rules of society.

That there is a great deal of quasi honesty no one will deny. And to intensify the idea, and say that there is a great deal of first-class stealing, yet under legitimate names, is but stating a well-known fact. Yet notwithstanding this, it is entirely safe to say that business principles more strictly govern commercial transactions here than anywhere else in the United States. Promptness, energy, economy, and frankness are essential characteristics in successful, legitimate business. And this is the only kind of business that should be desired. This part of the great sisterhood of States is to a degree isolated from the rest of the country, so that California is an imperium in imperio. This very fact of isolation by a great distance from "the States" has been a means of selecting those that have sought the Pacific coast as a per manent home or field for business.

A peculiar class of people are here, and have been from the discovery of gold in 1848. The Mexican War had B taken from their homes in the East men of all classes and grades, but men of strong physique and nerve, having metal of which heroes are made, for war calls out the nation's most valorous men, albeit they are sometimes men of bad hearts and abandoned lives. Such was the character of many of the men that rushed against the land of Monte zuma in 1846. The treaty of peace with Mexico threw upon the country a band of men made ad venturers by nature or their experience in the war. They were without employment, and many had no desire to return to their native country. Hence, attracted by the new country that had just been ceded to the government, many drifted to Cali fornia to be participants in the exciting scenes that followed.

Adventurers are made of good material ; they may sometimes be warped and angular in character, but, if properly controlled, make the best of citizens. The influx of immigration from '48 to '52, and to a great degree in succeeding years, was composed of this class of men. Drones, as a rule, are not the stirring, go-ahead, valorous men that conquer and utilize the world's outposts. This adventurous class of men have given a character to the whole Pacific coast that is world-wide, and that will continue through many decades. Who does not know that Cali fornians are noted for their energy and enterprise ? Foss's celebrated stage-drives to the Geysers, whose break-neck speed hundreds will remember, was in a staging way what the whole population do Jn a commercial line. Fortunes have been made and squandered, leaving the possessor pen niless, in a week.

The great distance of California from the East ern States, where the controlling men were to come from, the hazardous journey, and the great dangers attending it, were barriers against all except such as had strong mental and physical endowments. And the very same, to a slight degree, yet culls the class that comes to this coast. It is not making an overdrawn statement to say that the highest order of intelligence is to be found on the Pacific coast. There is more universality of education among the people than in any con siderable part of the United States. Hence the success that is seen everywhere. Money, as we have already indicated, is not picked up anywhere, but is secured by intelligent efforts. It is readily seen why many succeed and many fail in this country. The faint-hearted young man, whose idea of happiness is to be found in the im mediate neighborhood that gave him birth, will soon learn that he is ill-adapted to the hurly-burly of California.

Mother's affection should ever be cherished ; she is the best and dearest one on earth. But it must be remembered that if the extreme West is sought as a future home, her apron-strings do not span the mountains and plains that intervene. Many a man, good and true, to my knowledge, has most signally failed because he could not practically sever himself from home, and leap strong and unfettered upon the stage of success. Will and spirit are worth more than money here. With them you may be penniless and acquire a fortune, but without them your wealth goes, never to return. If men lack success here, in nine cases out of ten it is because they lack adaptation. Positiveness is among the first necessary articles, then, if you haven't money ; but little matter, if you have will and energy. Money is here in suf ficient abundance for every one that comes, if he but seek it properly.

There is great diversity in California; this has reference to the gifts of Nature as well as human character. Hence success depends largely upon manipulations with reference to these diversities. Even energy and brains ad libitum will not extract a fortune from a barren desert. A clearly defined idea of the end to be gained should always lie at the very beginning of the journey to this coast. " Never go it blind," if you would succeed, is an old adage, and never LOSS OR CAIN, WHY? 29 had more force than here. Make up your mind distinctly what you expect to do when you shall have arrived, then be governed only by the circumstances that bear upon your desired occu pation. The nature of the climate must be considered, for climate is as varied almost as landscapes or a native's word. If you be, or intend to be, a farmer, the soil must be your temporary theme at least.

Nature has thrown a goodly garb over all the land, but, " mark well," do not trust to appearances. Invest cautiously ; a thousand will entice you ; prospects the most inviting will unfold before you ; and if you have been a matter-of-fact, domestic kind of a man, the tendency will be to invest, and " make a corner" on all the opportunities, or a sufficient number of them to entirely "corner" you. Perhaps, of all places, more calm, steady thought is required here. No land, to a given number of acres, produces more abundantly than California. But agricultural pursuits require more thoughtfulness here than anywhere else. A successful farmer in this country would, if he were to farm on the same principles he does in the States, make a lamentable failure. The proper time, if used, and the right kind and amount of labor, are sure to bloom out in an abundant harvest.