Precious Stones and Gems, their history and distinguishing characteristics ... Illustrated, etc

Front matter

PRECIOUS STONES AND GEMS, BY EDWIN W. STREETER. PRECIOUS STONES WIJ GE M S, Their History and distinguishing Characteristics BY EDWIN W. STREETER Illustratrti toitt COLORED PLATES, PHOTOGRAPHS, &c The Gnu: " Table" Diamonds ■! 42. carat-. LONDON CHAPMAN & HALL, 193, PICCADILLY. 1 PRINTED BY HOWLETT AND SON, 10, FRITH STREET, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON. 1, 9 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PACK The Blue Diamond Frontispiece Proper Sizes of Brilliants 31 Proper Sizes of Rose Diamonds 32 The " Colesberg Kopje " Diamond Mine 68—69 The "Stewart" Diamond 72 The "Dudley" Diamond , ... ... 71 The "Twin" Diamond 73 Transparent Stones in the Rough 138 Gems in the Rough ' CONTENTS. PAGES To the Reader v — ix

Section I

— Precious Stones in general. — Chapter I Definition of the terms "Gem" and "Precious Stone" u — 12 Chapter II Where Precious Stones are found ... ... ... ... ... 13 — 14 Chapter III. ...Precious Stones and their uses in bygone times . ... ... ... 15 — 21 Chapter IV. ...The Working of Precious Stones ... ... ... ... .... 22 — 40 Chapter V Precious Stones as Objects of Commerce ... ... ... ... 41 — 44

Section II

— Chapter I The Diamond 45 — 59 Chapter II Cape or South- African Diamonds ... ... .... ... ... 60 — 74 Chapter III. ...Australian Diamonds ... 75 — 80 Chapter IV. ...Brazilian Diamonds ... 81 — 90 Chapter V Indian Diamonds ... ... 91 — 100 Chapter VI Colored Diamonds... ... 101 — 106 Chapter VII. ...Bort and Carbonado ... 107 — no Chapter VIII.. ..Celebrated Diamonds - ... in — 129 Chapter IX. ...Rough Diamonds 130 — 131 SECTION He- Chapter I Corundum ... ' 132 — 138 Chapter II Ruby ... ... ... ...■ 139 — 144 Chapter III. ...Sapphire 145 — 148 Chapter IV. ...Emerald ... ... ... 149 — 155 Chapter V Spinel and Balas Rubies... 156 — 160 Chapter VI. ....Opal 161 — 165 Chapter VII. ...Cat's Eye 166 — 168 Chapter VIII.. ..Turquoise 169 — 172 Chapter IX. ...Star Stones or Asteria ... 173 — Ill PAGES

Section IV

— Stones of inferior value. — Chapter I Amber 175 — r77 Chapter II Amethyst 178 — 179 Chapter III Agate 180—182 Chapter IV Alexandrite 183 Chapter V Aquamarine 184 — 185 Chapter VI Bloodstone 186 — 187 Chapter VII Carnelian or Red Chalcedony ... ... ... .•• ••■ 188 — 191 Chapter VIII. ...Chrysolite of Lapidaries (ChrysoberylJ 192— 193 Chapter IX Chrysoprase 194 — J95 Chapter X Garnet, Carbuncle, Jacinth, and Cinnamon Stone 196 — x99 Chapter XI Jasper ... 200—202 Chapter XII Labrador 203—204 Chapter XIII Lapis-Lazuli 205—207 Chapter XIV Malachite 208—209 Chapter XV Selenite or Moonstone... 210— 211 Chapter XVI Oriental Onyx 212—214 Chapter XVII. ...Peridot 215—216 Chapter XVIII... . Quartz Cat's Eye ,:. 217 Chapter XIX. ...Rock Crystal 218—220 Chapter XX Topaz 221—223 Chapter XXI. ...Tourmaline ... ... 224—225 Chapter XXII. ...Zircon, Jargoon, or Hya- 226 — 228 cinth

Section V

— Animal Products used as Gems. — Chapter I Coral 229—233 Chapter II, Pearls ••• 234 246 Chapter III Colored Pearls 247—248 General remarks upon the term " Carat "... 249 ' ••• 2 Co — 264 Index - J TO THE READER. iANY pages have been written on the history of PRECIOUS STONES. Authorities on authorities, from remote antiquity to this our day, have been cited as to their value, their uses, their beauties, and their properties, and still one might venture to say that there are fewer'judges of the genuineness and real value of Precious Stones, than there are treatises to guide people to such knowledge. Would it be altogether unwarrantable to express a grave doub(: whether even in the trade there are very many skilled in detecting the real measure of difference between one stone and another, either by that most essential test, the specific gravity, or by minor tests of rarity and quality ?

Be this as it may, I have arrived at the deliberate conviction, as a merchant and dealer long versed in the purchase and sale of gems, that some practical and popular guide to those who have an interest in ascertaining and testing the genuineness and value of Precious Stones, is in demand and would be useful. A Gem should be a real possession, capable of affording VI pleasure to the wearer and the spectator, and, with fair usage, retaining an intrinsic and marketable value, undi minished by lapse of time. I have sometimes seen in wear, gems scratched so that their lustre has been seriously impaired, and a suspicion excited in the minds of both wearer and friends that there was a defect in the hardness of the stones, and consequently in their genuineness. It would be worth while to point out that a small sum expended in re-polishing such stones would restore their original lustre, revive the pleasure derived from the possession of them, and prevent them from being sold as paste or imitation jewelry.

A lady had bequeathed to her some family jewels, consisting of a Sapphire and Diamond suite. As they had passed probate several times, there was no doubt in the mind of the legatee of the genuineness of the Sapphires On being applied to in relation to their value, I had to pronounce them to be only-paste. Had they been genuine they would have realized from £30,000 to £40,000. One often sees the Spinel and the Balas — the one a lively poppy-red, and the other a violet-rose — usurping the dignity of the true Ruby, and yet the pure Ruby of ten carats is worth from £3,800 to £4,800, and the other stones, called by the same name, would 'be dear at one twentieth of the sum. The Chrysolite ofthe Ancients, though highly esteemed by them, has not retained its popular character. It is by us termed the Oriental Topaz, and is a Corundum formed of alumina, colored golden-yellow by oxide of iron.

The ordinary Topaz of commerce, composed of silica and alumina, with hydrofluoric acid (hydric-fluoride), commonly of a pale orange, toning down to a straw color, is of comparatively little value. It is quite pardonable, and of small consequence, that the characteristics of such gems should be comparatively unknown ; but there are Precious Stones about which there should be no doubt in the minds either of the purchaser or the merchant, viz., the Diamond, Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire, Opal, Cat's-eye, Peridot, and Pearls. A lady refuses to wear a gown composed of inferior material intended to represent silk, because its. color, texture, and draping indicate, to every experienced eye, the substitution of the false for the real ; but she seems to ignore the fact that the color, brilliancy, and texture of a true gem, are as distinguishable from those of the false or mere imitation, as the cotton from the silk.

We pre sume to believe that the gown, which in a few nights' wear loses its worth altogether, is of less consequence as to the genuineness of its material, than gems which should be heirlooms of value, not to be deteriorated by the lapse of years. In the division of family jewels much injustice is done by persons incompetent to form a correct opinion of their relative values. A study of this hand-book may serve to demonstrate the difficulty of an accurate discrimination. In all cases it would be wiser to submit the jewels to a practised judge, both for valuation and probate. It is not right to leave the decision to some house agent or mutual friend. Some study and attention will be required to attain a knowledge of the properties and appearance of gems, but the subject is by no means unattractive, and may be turned to good account.

The study of Pearls especially, is not so intricate as is generally believed. If a little attention be paid to the ascertained mode of their construction in fine concentric layers, this will readily supply the key to detect spurious fabrications. The peculiarities of these products of organised nature are not very difficult to understand ; but if the specimens are large, and of supposed great value, it would not be undesirable to obtain the opinion of a skilled judge in such matters, especially in relation to colored Pearls. With objects, such as those referred to above, I am publishing the present volume, the outcome of more than thirty years' experience, and of the united knowledge of many men of science, and of my contemporaries in trade. I hope that it may be of some service to iis as mer chants, to our customers, and -to the public in general.

It must be borne in mind that this book is not in tended to be a scientific treatise, but a practical work for those who, whether in the trade or among the public at large, desire to obtain some knowledge of the general characteristics of Precious Stones. In conclusion, I trust that the Goldsmiths' Company, as fathers of the trade, will ere long throw open their fine suite of rooms in Foster Lane. To them we must look for aids to the more general appreciation of fine art jewelry, by affording favorable opportunities for exhi bitions and prizes, together with gratuitous lectures, and the free use of their reading-room to members of the trade. This would give an impetus to study to those engaged in jewelry-work, and enable the public to obtain a more accurate knowledge of, and a deeper interest in, a subject which has hitherto remained the property of an exclusive few.

The legacies bequeathed to the Goldsmiths' Company by the famous jewellers of the 15th, 16th, and 17th cen turies, which have since increased in value to an extent almost inconceivable, without doubt were intended for some such purposes as those to which we have referred. I am in an especial manner indebted for the subject matter which forms the basis of this work, to the works of Professor Kluge, translated by Mrs. Brewer ; and also to Major Beaumont, M.P., and Mr. James A. Forster. These contributors are authorities in the departments of science in which they have conceded me their invaluable assistance. EDWIN W. STREETER. 1 8, New Bond Street, London. The " Shah " Diamond, weight, 86 carats. B ERRATA. Page 30, tine 9, for keeping it read keeping them. „ 36, ,, 8, ,, was seen , were seen. 37, „ 21, „ Barotsch , Baroche ,, 42, „ 14, ,.

Candia . . Galla... ,. Kandy . . Galle ,, 43, „ 10, „ mulattos and negros ... ,, mulattoes and negroes. » 43* » 33- n Leipsic Leipzig „ 57, „ 6. „ Silicon iron ,, Silicon and iron 1. 57, ,, 27, ,, hydro-carhons, was ... ,, hydro-carbons, it was ; 58. „ 1, „ Wohler „ Wohler. ,, 59, ,, 28, ,, Pagen „ Payen. ,, 71, ,, 17, ,, hypothesis „ hypotheses 71, „ 19, „ „ 92, ,, 12, ,, track „ tract 94, „ 17, „ Nalla Nalla „ Nalla Malla. . ,, ' 95, ,, 8, ,, them so obsol.te ,, them have become *o, &c. ,', ioo, ,, 18, ,, Diamonds „ Diamond. ., Ill, .,, 5, ,, signallized ,, signalized ,. Iiz, ,, 26, ,, Schah Jihan „ Shah Jahan „ 113, ,. 9, 12, 16 Schah „ Shah „ 117, ,. 8, ,, specimen ,. as a specimen 119, .. 20, ., guilden ,, gulden ,, 127, ,, I, ,, adaption „ adaptation ,, 127, __ 15, „ reliques „ reliquaries „ 135, „ 16, „ near the Oxus, „ On the slopes of the O mi - 135, ,, 18, „ always near together : „ always lie together „ I39>' n 4> >i is embedded ,, is found embedded ._ 152, „ 3, „ in Algiers, ,, in Algeria, 167, „ 24, ,, crystalization „ crystallization __ 189, „ 2, „ Barotsch ,, Baroche „ 197. » 19. » Aug!t> » Au-7itl;> „ 209, „ 1, „ head „ bead

Section I Precious Stones In General, Chapter

I. DEFINITION OF THE TERMS GEM AND PRECIOUS STONE. GEM or Precious Stone, in its widest sense, is a mineral ; hard, of beautiful color, or absolutely colorless ; usually transparent, of great rarity, and of value in the manufacture of jewelry. Generally, minerals with these characteristics are divided into two classes: (i) Jewels, or Gems proper, perfectly pure. (2) half-pure Precious Stones, colored or tinted. Included in the first class are those, rarer minerals, distinguished by colors, at once bright and sparkling, soft and tender ; distinguished also by transparency, high lustre, great density, and capability of polish. The so-called half-pure Precious Stones of the second class have all the above peculiarities, but in a much less degree. They are found more frequently, and in greater abundance.

This arrangement, however, is artificial. Many stones belong sometimes to one, sometimes to the other class. Again, the money value does not allow of an infallible line being drawn between the two classes, as that depends Definition of the terms Gem 'and Precious Stones. very much upon accidental circumstances, such as peculiar beauty, rarity of color, perfection, and the demands of fashion. Hence it often happens the semi-precious Stones are preferred to the Gems or pure stones of the first class. The Science of Precious Stones, taken in a wide sense, is a knowledge of them, and all their peculiarities and relationships. In a more limited sense, it is only the scientific knowledge of the stones. It is a department of Applied Mineralogy or Lithurgics. The properties of Precious Stones are morphological (referring to their shapes), physical, and chemical.

The science depends, therefore, materially upon Geometry, Physics, and Chemistry. As the science has for its object to show the appli cation of these minerals to the Arts and every-day life, Technology, or the explanation of terms used in the Arts, is essential in this field of study. As aids to the study of gems, besides literary works and collections of jewels, several chemical and physical instruments are required, such as a blow-pipe and spirit lamp, a goniometer or instrument for measuring angles, scales to determine specific gravity, and files for testing the hardness of stones.

Chapter II. Where Precious Stones Are Found

fflOHE habitat, or native home of Precious Stones, will s$ vO specially indicated in the description of each individual Gem, or the class to which it belongs ; we shall, therefore, content ourselves with a very few general remarks upon the subject. Precious Stones are found in the same perfection, as far as their quality is concerned, in very different parts of the world, although they do not all choose similar chains of mountains for their home. Diamonds, however, in the rough state from India, are readily distinguished from the Brazilian, South- African, or Australian stones ; but the difference is only superficial, for, when polished, it has been found impossible to dis criminate between the Indian, Brazilian, and South-African productions. Good and bad come from all these localities; and the terms "Old Mine Stones" and "New Mine Stones" are rather trade phrases than the expressions of actual facts.

The Emerald of Peru is much the same as that from the Red Sea. The Beryl appears in equal beauty in Siberia and in Brazil; and the Amethysts ofthe Palatinate fairly rival in beauty those found in Ceylon or Brazil. It is not the geographical position which determines the difference, although it is acknowledged that India, Brazil and Ceylon have produced larger Precious Stones, and in greater abundance, than other lands. The Ancients were Where Precious Stones are found. 14 wont to ascribe this pre-eminence to evaporation from the earth where Precious Stones are found — an evaporation obviously more intense in tropical countries. ' It is as if the sunburnt tropics were more favorable to the blossoms of the inorganic world, than the dark skies of the north. But although Precious Stones are not limited to any defined geographical area, their distribution is in a measure circumscribed.

They are not met with in all mountain ranges, nor in all formations of mountains. The most valuable are found in such ranges as are considered the oldest in the world ; such as are composed of granite, porphyry, and mica-slate. Sometimes they occur imbedded in the -mass of the rock ; at other times, growing, as it were, on the surface. When they are thus found, in the very rocks where they were originally formed, they are said to be in their primeval bed. Many, however, are found far from their primal home, in a derivative or secondary bed, in diluvial or alluvial soils, and in the gravels " and sands of river-beds. This last mode of occurrence is the most frequent for the finer Precious Stones. Far removed from their native home by the force of heavy rains and rushing torrents, they have been loosened and carried onwards, rounded by friction against the debris with which they have been accompanied in their course.

It is by their hardness and density that they are preserved, and many even retain traces of their original crystalline form. In Ceylon, India, Brazil, Australia, California, the Ural, Siberia and South Africa — from which countries the •great majority of our Precious Stones are obtained — the most usual way in which they occur is in these derivative beds ; and it is interesting to notice how various kinds of Precious Stones are found in the same locality, forming as it were a noble society of Gems, still more illustrious by their association with gold and platinum.

Chapter III. Precious Stones And Their Uses In Bygone Times

RECIOUS Stones were valued and preserved by the Ancients thousands of years ago. In India, where the most costly were abundantly found, this was especially the case. Other Eastern lands, on the contrary, possessed Precious Stones, and handed them down from generation to generation without knowing anything of their worth or nature, valuing them simply for their transparency, their dazzling beauty, their hard ness, their crystalline forms, all of which excited their wonder, and induced them to preserve them as amulets, or to use them as personal ornaments. We know that in the time of Solomon, the love of grace and luxury induced the rich to desire the possession of Precious Stones, and even to seek for them in foreign lands. In Egypt, in ancient times, many half-precious Stones and scarabæan Gems were worked ; and we learn from the Septuagint, and from Philo, that the robes of the High Priest were set with Precious Stones.

The names the Hebrews gave these stones indicate that they derived their knowledge of them from the Egyptians, who un doubtedly, in common with other ancient races, knew little of what we understand by Mineralogy. As regards India, Strabo and Pliny tell us that gold and Precious Stones were used for personal adornment, and that drinking cups were formed of precious metals set with Emeralds, Beryls, and Rubies. . From the East the Phœnicians, in their universal traffic, exported costly stones as well as ivory, with Syrian purple and 6ther stuffs, which were known as early as the Homeric period. The songs of Homer contain references to valuable bright stuffs and stones which served for ornament, without mentioning their special names or qualities. For instance — " the witch puts on her costly robe and brilliant earrings," but their nature is not defined.

Eurymachus gives to Penelope an exquisitely worked neck lace of gold, ornamented with light, amber, bright as the sun. Eurydamas gives magnificent earrings, such as must have been worn by high-born ladies and princesses in Homeric times. But the precious Onyx and the Sapphire are mentioned by Job, with the Coral, Pearls, Rubies, and Topaz of Ethiopia ; and the place in which some were found appears to have been known by that patriarch of \3z : " He putteth forth His hand upon the rock : He cutteth out rivers among the rocks, and His eye seeth every precious thing." Six or seven hundred years B.C. the Greeks knew of many Precious Stones, and the rulers in Greece and neighbouring lands wore ornamental and signet rings made with cut stones. The famous ring of Polycrates (died B.C. 522) was doubtless as valuable to him for its costly stones and workmanship, as for any supernatural power which it is said to have possessed.

Herodotus, and some later Greek authors, mention Theodoras of Samos, the first engraver of stones, as the maker of that ring. In the beginning ofthe 5th century, B.C., we find among the Greeks, a didactic History of Precious Stones ; an indication that they had long had knowledge of them. . Onomacritus, a Priest and Founder of Hellenic mysteries, 500 years B.C., treated of Precious Stones and their mysterious power. Commencing with the bright trans parent crystal, he says, " Whoso goes into the Temple with this in his hand may be quite sure of having his prayer granted ; as the gods cannot withstand its power." Further, he states, " that when this stone is laid upon dry wood, so that the sun's rays may shine upon it, there will soon be seen smoke, then fire,- then a bright flame." This flame was known among the Ancients as holy fire, and they believed that no sacrifice was so acceptable to the gods as when offered through its agency.

In like manner, Onomacritus sang the praises and supernatural power of the Agate, the Topaz, the spring green Jasper, Amber, Chrysolite, Coral, and Opal. The superstitions attached to these and other stones were not confined to the Ancients. Even in this enlightened age, the Empress Eugenie of France, would not wear a precious Opal because it was said to bring ill luck to the wearer. Queen Victoria, on the contrary, having no such super stition, has presented each of her daughters, on their marriage, with a parure of Opals and Diamonds. After the early Greek period the knowledge of Precious Stones advanced. Herodotus must have had accurate acquaintance with many of them. He mentions, besides the Emerald in Polycrates' ring, signet rings, such as that of Darius; and speaks of the so-called Emerald column in the Temple of Hercules at Tyre, which at night gave out a wonderful light. .

Plato mentions the Sard, Jasper and Emerald. The Adamant, — possibly our modern Diamond — Amber and Loadstone were not unknown to him ; and he shows some knowledge of the origin of both common and c Precious Stones, and of their natural hexagonal, octagonal and prismatic forms. It is certain that Aristotle had a knowledge of a still larger number of Precious Stones, and that he was acquainted with some of their special properties. His scholar, Theophrastus, has left us a small work on this subject. Diodorus mentions the Topaz found in the Serpent Island of the Arabian Sea ; this is probably what we now call Chrysolite. Dionysius Periegetes mentions the clear and brilliant Diamond, the beautiful Astrios that glitters like a star, the Lychnis, with the color of fire, the blue Beryl, the dull Jasper, the pure bluish or greenish Topaz, and the lovely Amethyst with its soft, purple sheen.

In the time of Alexander the Great, and still more in the time of the luxurious Diadocheus, there was a great increase in the use of Precious Stones as articles of luxury. They were not only used for signet rings, but also in ornamenting many articles of use and luxury, particularly drinking vessels and candelabra. After the Romans became possessed of the treasures of Asia and Africa, they probably gained a much fuller knowledge of Precious Stones. Pliny must have been better informed than his predecessors as to the places where gems were found. From him also we gain most of our knowledge of the views of the Ancients as to Precious Stones. During this period the luxury of Rome in respect to Precious Stones was enormous. The Emperors adorned their robes with jewels of immense value. Paulina, the wife of Caligula, covered her dress entirely with Emeralds and Pearls of untold worth.

Pliny says "we drink out of a mass of gems, and our drinking vessels are formed of Emeralds." A little later they began to set their sacred pictures in frames adorned with gems. Constantine entered Rome in a chariot of gold, adorned with Precious Stones which sent forth brilliant rays of light, and in his time the royal crown was first set about with Precious Stones. This ornamenting crowns with gems has been a general custom to this day. Passing on to the Christian Era, among writers upon Precious Stones, Sidorus, Bishop of Seville, in the year 630 A.D., takes a prominent place. He divided gems according to their color. The number of properties attributed to Precious Stones at this time is wonderful. They were said to have the power of conferring health, beauty, riches, honor, good fortune and influence.

Men and women carried them about their persons, and. called them Amulets. They were thought also to have some connection with the planets and seasons. A special gem was worn for each month : thus — In January The Hyacinth. „ February „ Amethyst. „ M-trch ... • „ Jasper. „ April ' „ Sapphire. „ May ... „ Agate. „ June „ Emerald. „ July Onyx. „ August „ Carnelian. „ September I | ... „ Chrysolite. „ October ... „ Beryl. „ November -. Topaz. „ December ... „ Ruby. The Twelve Apostles, also, were represented by gems, called Apostle-stones, viz : — I. — The hard and solid Jasper, representing the rock of the Church, was the emblem of Peter. 2. The bright-blue Sapphire was emblematic of the heavenly faith of Andrew. 3. — The Emerald, of the pure and gentle John. 4. — The white Chalcedony, of the loving James. 5. — The friendly Sardonyx, of Philip. 6. — The red Carnelian, of the martyr Bartholomew. 7. — The Chrysolite, pure as sunlight, of Matthias. 8. — The indefinite Beryl, of the doubting Thomas. 9. — The Topaz, of the delicate James the younger. 10. — The Chrysoprase, of the serene and trustful Thaddeus. 11. — The Amethyst, of Matthew the Apostle. . 12. — -The pink Hyacinth, of the sweet-tempered Simeon. of Cana.

In later times, an Alphabet was formed of Precious Stones and Half-precious Stones. TRANSPARENT. OPAQUE. A. Amethyst. Agate. B. Beryl. Basalt. C. Chrysoberyl. Cacholong. D. Diamond. Diaspore. E. Emerald. Egyptian Pebble. F. Felspar. Fire-stone. G. Garnet. Granite. H. Hyacinth. Heliotrope. I. Idocrase. Jasper. K. Kyanite. Krokidolite. L. Lynx-sapphire. Lapis-lazuli. M. Milk-opal. Malachite. N. Natrolite. Nephrite. O. Opal. Onyx. P. Pyrope. Porphyry. Q. Quartz. Quartz-agate. R. Ruby. Rose-quartz. S. Sapphire. Sardonyx. T. Topaz. Turquoise. TRANSPARENT. OPAQUE. U. Uranite. Ultra-marine. Verd-antique. Wood-opal. Xylotile. V. Vesuvianite. W. Water-sapphire. X. Xanthite. Xanthite. Z. Zircon. Zurlite. If, for instance, you wanted the word Alice represented in a ring, you would choose Amethyst, Lynx-sapphire, Idocrase, Chrysoberyl and Emerald ; or any other group of stones whose initial letters spell the name.

Chapter IV

, THE WORKING OF PRECIOUS STONES. A.— GENERAL. HE qualities for which Precious Stones are most prized, viz., lustre, transparency, refraction, and dispersion of light, are to some extent visible even in their rough state ; but in order to bring out these advantages to perfection, and make them objects of attractive ornament, the stones must be subjected to artistic cutting, slicing, and polishing. The Art whereby this is accomplished is divided into two parts. i. The Lapidary's Art, that is, the grinding, polishing, and manipulation of the rough stone, so as to produce regular and smooth surfaces, or facets. 2. The Engraver's Art consists in stone cutting, engraving and the working of the polished stone into certain designs. B.— HISTORICAL The art of cutting and polishing stones for ornaments into shapes with many surfaces or facets, so as to develope all their valuable qualities, as it is understood by us, was unknown to the Ancients.

They were content with rubbing down the angles, polishing the natural surfaces, and arranging them fancifully. The clasp of the royal mantle of Charlemagne (in the National Collection of France) was set with Diamonds, but the natural planes of the octahedron were only partially polished. In the year 1290, a corporate body of gem-polishers and cutters was formed in Paris; and in 1373 there were Diamond-polishers in Niirnberg : but we do not know their method of polishing. A little later, the so-called "table-cutters" at Niirnberg, and all other stone-engravers, formed themselves into a guild. So difficult was the acquisition of their Art, that one of their rules was that apprentices must serve for five or six years before they could be allowed to start in business for themselves. In 1434, Guttenberg learnt gem-cutting and polishing of Andreas Drytzehen of Strasbourg.

In the year 1590, a Frenchman, Claudius de la Croix, went to Niirnberg, and carried on the cutting of Rose garnets. As we have already seen, there were Diamond cutters and polishers in Niirnberg in 1373. On very old church ornaments have been found, from time to time, Diamonds having upper table-like surfaces with four polished borders, and the lower sides cut as four-sided prisms or pyramids. In the inventory of the jewels of Louis, Duke of Anjou, exhibited in the years 1360 — 1368, the following cut Diamonds are mentioned. (1) a Diamond, of a shield shape, from a reliquary : (2) two small Diamonds, from the same reliquary with three flat-cut, four-cornered facets on both sides : (3) a small Diamond, in the form of a round mirror, set in a salt-cellar: (4) a thick Diamond, with four facets : (5) a Diamond, in the form of a lozenge : (6) an eight-sided, and (7) a six-sided plain Diamond.

In the beginning of the 15th century, there are traces of the art of Diamond-polishing in Paris. There still exists in Paris a cross-way called La Courarie, where the Diamond - workers lived two hundred and fifty years ago. In 1407, Diamond-cutting made great strides under Hermann, a clever workman. The Duke of Burgundy gave a magnificent dinner at the Louvre to the King of France and his Court, and the noble guests received eleven Diamonds set in gold. Their value would be £117 18s. sterling. It is said that these Diamonds were cut, imperfectly perhaps, but still, enough to increase their play of color, and make them more worthy of presentation to such noble guests. It was in Bruges, in 1456, that Louis de Berquem, who had lived long in Paris, made known his discovery of cutting the Diamond into regular facets.