A Narrative of a Journey into Persia, and residence at Teheran; containing a descriptive itinerary from Constantinople to the Persian Capital, also a variety of anecdotes illustrative of the history, commerce, religion, manners, customs of the inhabitants, etc

Front matter

1.,-a.LnPub^htd by WWrufhl. tfJ-h* Stnxt.JW 11*3820. A NARRATIVE or a JOURNEY INTO PERSIA, AND RESIDENCE AT TEHERAN: CONTAINING & Uegcttptibe Ktintrarji FROM CONSTANTINOPLE TO THE PERSIAN CAPITAL ; ALSO A VARIETY OF ANECDOTES, ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE HISTORY, COMMERCE, RELIGION, MAN. NERS, CUSTOMS OF THE INHABITANTS, MILITARY POLICY OF THE GOVERNMENT, &C. FROM THE FRENCH OF M. TANCOIGNE, ATTACHED TO THE EMBASSY OF GENERAL GARDANE. EMBELLISHED WITH AN ACCURATE MiP, AND A PLATE REPRESENT/NO THE INTERIOR OF A HAREM, FROM AN ORIGINAL DRAWING BV A PERSIAN ARTIST. ♦ One line written on the spot is worth a thousand recollections. — Anon. LONDON : PRINTED FOR WILLIAM WRIGHT, Iti, FLEET STREET. 1820. W. Shackell, Printer, 11, Johnson 's-court, Fleet-street, London. TO HIS EXCELLENCY MIRZA-ABOUL-HASSAN-KHAN, cj'c. o/c. o/c. AMBASSADOR EXTRAORDINARY FROM HIS PERSIAN MAJESTY FETH-ALI-SHAH, TO THE COURT OF LONDON: Œfie follofomg Haters, IN WHICH AN IMPARTIAL, THOUGH FLATTERING PICTURE, OF THE PRESENT STATE OF PERSIA IS GIVEN, AND, ABOVE ALL, AMPLE JUSTICE HAS BEEN DONE TO THE VIRTUES AND TALENTS OF HIS ILLUSTRIOUS AND ENLIGHTENED SOVEREIGN, IS DEDICATED, BY HIS EXCELLENCY'S MOST HUMBLE AND VERY OBEDIENT SERVANT, THE EDITOR

Preface

. In givingpublicity to the following Narrative of a journey into Persia, performed in the suite of General Gardane's Embassy, I do not undertake to remind my readers either of the political object or results of that mission, as they are sufficiently known to all those who have observed the progress of events ; besides, such are the many important changes which have taken place in the aspect of European affairs since the period of our visit to the Persian capital, that the interest which might have been then attached to a detail of the diplomatic relations of France and Persia, are now almost entirely removed, while that which concerns the history, natural productions, manners, and customs of the last named country, has rather increased than diminished. This arises no less from the enlightened policy of Feth Ali Chah's government, and the progressive advances of his subjects towards

PREFACE.

. VI European civilization, than the growing cu riosity of the public for all that tends to illus trate the condition of remote nations. Hav ing thus shortly alluded to my motives for appearing before the public, it remains for me to give an outline of the plan pursued in accomplishing the proposed object. The first fourteen letters contain details of our route from Constantinople to Teheran, together with a description of the country through which we passed. The three next communications are intended to present an abridged historical view of the various dynasties that have reigned in Persia, from the re motest epochas of the monarchy, down to the reigning family. I have added some notes taken on the spot during my journey ; these contain occasional reflections, and my opinion on the origin of various customs, when it did not coincide with that of other travellers.

As to the accuracy of historical fact, we can only know what we have read ; while the science of the historian seems to consist in being able to distinguish between true or probable events, and those which are false or unworthy of belief. If I have cited the oriental writers, it was in order that their assertions might be compared with those of

PREFACE.

. VII the Greeks and Romans, who had mentioned the same nations. By taking from each all that savours of partiality or exaggeration, a fair chance is afforded of elucidating, if not the whole, at least a part of the truth. The succeeding letters contain a variety of details relative to the climate, population, and commerce of Persia ; as also on the religion, manners, and customs of the people. These are the immediate result of personal observation. I have occasionally named Chardin, the most accurate of all the French travellers who have written on this country, for an Eu ropean visitor might even at this day go all over Persia with his book as a guide, except as it regards the costume, which has under gone a total change. Although Tavernier has fallen into comparative disrepute, I do not think all our prejudices against him are equally well founded.

From the tone of per suasion which runs through this traveller's work, it would appear that his errors were by no means intentional, but rather those of the head than the heart : on the other hand, many of his descriptions are remarkable for their truth and fidelity. The works of our learned orientalists ren-

PREFACE.

dered the attempt, were I even equal to it, of composing a treatise on the language and literature of Persia unnecessary ; but I thought it might be agreeable to my readers to see a few extracts from the celebrated Gulistan of Saadi. The sentiments and maxims contained in that singular production, are not destitute of interest or merit, nor can it be denied that all the poets of Europe have been more or less indebted to the eastern wri ters for allegorical illustration and poetical imagery. The Itinerary, or table of distances from Constantinople to Teheran, through Asia Minor and Armenia, is calculated by hours of march, according to the established custom in Turkey ; that of my journey from Erzerum to Trebizond, and my return by the Black Sea, is upon a similar principle. After having appropriated a few pages to a description of the Turkish capital, and an account of the revolutions which occurred there in 1807 and the following year, the volume ter minates with some desultory remarks made on my route to the frontiers of Poland , through Romelia, Bulgaria, Wallachia, and Moldavia. CONTENTS.

Letter IV

Road from Nicea to Angora, or Engurie— The Sacharia, or Sangaris River— Ak Serai— Balaban Zade, Dere Bey, a Prince tributary to the Grand Signor— Gheive— Teraklu— Torbalu— Kiostebek— Nalikhan— Sivri Hisar— Bey Bazar— Aias— River Aias— Description of Angora, its commerce, manufactures, Angora goats, its antiquities, distrust of the Turks of strangers who visit them, &c. 14

Letter V

Road from Angora to Josgatt — Hairi Keui — Kilislar Keui — Kouroudjilik Soui, a stream— The Iris, or Kizil Irmak (the red river) — States of Tchapan Oglou— Aksakhan— Baltchuk Kiatib Ounou, a rivulet of salt water —Wandering Turcomans— Description of Josgatt, its commerce— Tchapan Oglou — Visit to that Dere Bey— His good administration and power. X CONTENTS. PACK

Letter VI

Road from Josgatt to Tocat — Dichlidge — Sourkoun — Hadji Keui — Kizeldik — Zib — Bazar Keui — The river Tosanlu — Description of Tocat, its commerce, castle, &c. 29

Letter VII

Road from Tocat to Kara Hisar — Ford of the Tosanlu — Rock which seems to have contained a tomb — Neo Cesarea, or Niksar — Ermeni Keui, the first village of the Pachalik of Erzerum — Fiobbers — Kizil Geurluk — Melleum — Janizaries — Koule Hisar — Endres — Tchifflit, or farm of the Pacha of Erzerum — Description of Kara Hisar — Good reception by an old Armenian — Jealousy of the men. 35

Letter VIII

Road from Kara Hisar to Erzerum— Zile — Sabuhktan — Kerkif — Adventure of the Persian ambassador — Lory — Tolos — Pekerik — Ford of the Euphrates, called Trat by the Turks — Achkala — Delis, a kind of light cavalry — Elidja, a fountain of hot water — Anxieties relative to the plague — Description of Erzerum ; its position and commerce, productions of its territory, wines — Yousouf Pacha — Festival given by that governor — Game of the Djerid, a sham fight — Second festival outside the town. 43

Letter IX

Road from Erzerum to Baiazid, the last frontier town of Turkey in Armenian Asia — Alvare — Hassan Kale — The river Araxes — A spring of hot water — Jaian — Alarms relative to the plague in that village — Deli Baba — Tomb of aPascha — Toprak Kale — Mala Suleiman — Armenians, Catholics — Kara Kilisia, or the black Church — Jandjalu — Curdes, origin of that wanderingpeople, their strolling and vagabond life — Arms and dress of the Curdes — Robberies committed by them — Utch Kilisia,, or the three churches — Description of that convent, and of the village of the same name — Mount Ararat, or Agri Danh Diadin — Description of Baiazid — Visit to Ibrahim Pacha, governor of that city . 52

Letter X

Road from Baiazid to Khoi, the first frontier town in Persia, in that part of the province of Azerbaidjan — Entry into Persia Kilisia Kindi, or Havadjik — Curdes, more cautious in Persia than in Turkey— The Curdes do not acknowledge the authority CONTENTS. XI PACE of the Grand Signor, but pay a tribute to the king of Persia Arab Dilesi — Kara Ini — Zorava — Death of Mr. Bernard, aid de-camp to General Gardane — Description of Khoi — Burial of Mr. Bernard — Festival given by Hadji Muhammed Khan, governor of Khoi — Persian dancers. 64

Letter XI

Road from Khoi to Tauris — The lake Ouromie, or Mouraga, called by the Persians Deriai Chahi, or the Royal Sea — Islands — Tesouch — New alarms relative to the plague — Chebister — Maian, a salt desert and small river — Description of Tauris, capital of the province of Azerbaidjan — The river Spingteha — The Adji, a salt rivulet — Audience of the Chah Zade Abbas Mirza, presumptive heir to the throne of Persia — Festival given by that prince — Presents — Kizil Bach .signification of that word — Commerce and climate of Tauris — Bazars — Ruins — Ahmed Khan, beylerbey of the city — His attachment to the French — Theriaki, signification of that word. 69

Letter XII

Road from Tauris to Zenghan — New caravan formed at Tauris — Horses unshod in Persia — Seid Abad — Tikme Tash — Turkmann — Ruined villages and caravanseries — Miana, Miana flies — Bridge over the river of Miana — Kaplan Kouli, or mountain of tygers — The Kixil Ozzan, bridge on that river — Maiden's castle — Akkend — Herman Khane — Description of Zenghan, capital of Hamre, its population — River of Zenghan. 79

Letter XIII

Road from Zenghan to Kasbinn — Village of Sultanie, built on the ruins of a large city, formerly the capital of Persia — Large mosques — The king of Persia goes every year to pass the summer, with several of his women, on the plains of Sultanie — Amusements of the monarch in his camp — Splendor of the Persian tents — Sankala — Ebher — Sia Dehen — Vines and fruit trees in the plain of Kasbinn — Manner in which the Persians make wine — Description of Kasbinn, its commerce, and manufactures, illumination with coloured paper lantherns, fire-works and puppet-shew at the house ofMehrab Khan, governor of that city — The king of Persia's predilection for astrology. 84

Letter XIV

Road from Kasbinn to Teheran — Hassan Abad — Kichla, a pleasure house of the king of Persia — Kerbous Abad — Ali CONTENTS. PAGK Chah Abbas — Entry of the French embassy into Teheran — Description of that city, now capital of Irak Adjemi, and of all Persia, its position — Mount Elvend — the Demavend, its summit almost always covered with snow — Internal distribution of a Persian house — Portrait of Feth Ali Chah. 91

Letter XV

Historical summary of the various dynasties that have reigned in Persia since the year 2400 before the vulgar era, down to our time — Dynasties of the Pichdadians, or Elamites, the Kaianiles, or Median kings, the Achkanians and Achganians, or sviccessors of Alexander. 102 PICHDADIAN KINGS. Hoshing, or Hosheing Pichdad ; Djemchid ; Piurach; Dehbahkt; Feridoun; Manoudjeher; Nodar; Afrasiab; Zab; Kichtab ; Kersoman, Siamek, &c. KAIANITE KINGS. Keikobad ; Kaikaus ; Kai Khousrew ; Lohorasp ; Gustup ; Ardechir; Homai, or Khemani (a queen): Dara I. (Darius I.); Dara II. (Darius II.) dethroned by Iskender, or Alexander. THE SUCCESSORS OF ALEXANDER. This dynasty is divided into two branches : 1st. The Achkanians, or Parthians . . 12 kings 3d. The Achganians, or Seleucidæ . . 8

Letter XVI

Continuation of the same subject — Dynasty of the Sassanians, or Sussanidæ, otherwise called Artaxerzidæ. 103 Ardchir Budegan, or Artaxerxes. Schapour I. (Sapor I.) ; Hormouz I ; Bairam I. ; Bairam II. ; Bairam III. ; Narsi; Hormouz H. ; Schapour II. ; Ardchir II. ; Schapour III. ; Bairam IV. ; Yezdgerd el Essim; Bairam V. ; Yezdgerd II. ; Hormouz III. ; Firouz ; Cobad ; Khousrew Nouchirewan (Kosroes the Great); Hormouz IV.; Khousrew Perwitz; Cobad Chirouie ; Ardchir HI. ; Cheriar; Touran Douhkt (a queen) ; Azurmi (a queen) ; Ferohk Zab ; Yezdgerd III, 118

Letter XVII

Sequel and conclusion of the same subject — Empire of the caliphs, from the year 632 of Jesus Christ, to the year 820, other Mahometan dynasties — Taherites — Soffarites, or tinkers Sacontents. xiii PAGE manides — Gazuevides — Gaurides — Dilemites — Beuides, or Bovides — Seldjeucides — Seldjeucides of Iran, or Persia — Seld jeucides ofKerman — Seldjeucides of Iconium, or Asia Minor — Seldjeucides of Aleppo — Seldjeucidesof Damascus — Atabeks of Syria ; Kharismians, or Kowarismians — Mogols, or Moguls — Turkomans divided into Kara Kouiounlu (the black sheep), and Ak Kouiounlu (the white sheep) — Mouhafferians — Mulouk Couroches, or Curdes — Sephewies, or Sephies — Cheik Sephi — Ismael — Chah Abbas, first, surnamed the Great — Anecdotes of the Kalioun — Sephi Mirza— Chah Abbas II Chah Sephi II — Chah Hussein — Chah Tahmas — Thamas Kouli Khan, or Nadir Chah — AH Kouli Khan, or Adil Chah — Ibrahim — Chuh Roulik — Chuh Ismael — Kerim Khan — Vekil, or regent — Ali Murad — Djaffer Khan — Louft Ali Khan — The eunuch Aga Muhammed Khan, vekil or regent — Baba Khan, or Feth Ali Chah, the reigning king. 134

Letter XVIII

Extent of modern Persia, or Irani — Its boundaries, provinces, climate, productions, commerce, cultivation of flowers, waters, game, fish, butcher's meat, bread, population — Warlike tribes — Eiat, or Tadjik — Armenians, Jews, Guebrœ, or Parsees — Government of Persia — Titles of Mirza, Khan, &c. &c. — Chah Zades — Selam of the king — Daily duties of the ministers and the nobility to the king. 147

Letter XIX

Character of the Persians — their politeness to foreigners — their religious toleration — their cunning and propensity to falsehood — their avarice — their sagacity — facility with which they adopt foreign customs that seem superior to their own — Nuneddjims, or astrologers — Persian physicians — Musselmen casuists — Manners of the Persians — their indifference to the fair sex — Depravity — Marriage — Filthiness — Employment of time — Cookery — Feasts — Solibets, or assemblies — Amusements — Exercise of the Djerid — Cock and ram fight — Sportsmen. 169

Letter XX

Description of the palace of Nighiaristan, and of Kasri Kadjar — Harem of the king of Persia — Ruins of Rhages — Village of Rey — Holy village of Chah Abdul Azim — Religion of the Persians — Their funerals — Cemeteries — Mosques — General toleration of the Persians — Intolerance of the Mollahs — Dervishes — Fakirs — Emirs — Public schools. CONTENTS. PACK

Letter XXI

Ramazan— Bairam— Courban Bairam— Sacrifice of the Camel; Tazies, religious festivals in commemoration of the martyrdom of the Imans Hassan and Hussein. 175

Letter XXII

Shape and physiognomy of the Persians, their dress— Persian women, their dress— Baths— Occupations in the harems- Dancing and music— State of the arts amongst the Persianspainters, engravers, enamellers, goldsmiths, &c. &c. 202

Letter XXIII

Festivals of Newrouz, or of the new year— Persian kalendar — Khalats, or dresses of honour— Selam of the king— Ceremonies with which it is accompanied at Newrouz — Offering of the Chah Zades and governors of provinces — fire-works — Horse-races — the king's elephants. 217

Letter XXIV

Of justice in Persia — Punishment — Police — Rahdars, or guards of the roads — Daroga — Mir Ahdas — Mouhtesib, &c. 233

Letter XXV

Diseases peculiar to the climate of Persia — Army, cavalry — Review of the troops — Tufenktchis, or infantry — Artillery — Zembourks — Military household of the king of Persia, goulams, nasaktchis, chatirs and ferruchs — The king's eunuchs. 243

Letter XXVI

Persian language and literature — Translation of the first book of the Gulistan of Saadi. 258

Letter XXVII

Departure from Teheran — Second passage by Kasbinn — Interior of a harem — Return to Tauris — Stay at the camp of the Chah Zade Abbas Mirza — French officers in the service of the king of Persia — New Persian troops disciplined in the French manner Audience of the prince — Presents. 311

Letter XXVIII

Road from Tauris to Erzerum— Entry into Turkey— Siege of Baiazid — Timur Bey — Stay at the Camp of the Curdes — Meeting of two Caravans — Conduct of a Persian named Souhan CONTENTS. XV PAGE Kouli Khan — Fresh violences of the Curdes — Visit to Osman Pacha, the new governor of Erzerum, &c, 319

Letter XXIX

Road from Erzerum to Trebizond — Elidja — Kotchik — Baiboud — Chebin Khane — Jaila — Mountain of the Ten Thousand — Description of Trebizond — Lazes — Roadstead of Platana, &c. 332

Letter XXX

Passage by the Black Sea from Trebizond to Samsoun — Description of Samsoun, Greek village called Cadi Keui, &c. 343

Letter XXXI

Passage from Samsoun to Sinope — Arrival at Sinope — Description of that town — Guerz^ — Ruins of a gymnasium and of the palace of Mithridates — Ak Liman, a little port at two leagues from Sinope — Departure from that town, and return, &c. 344

Letter XXXII

Passage from Sinope to Constantinople — Arrival at Constantinople — Revolutions of 1807 and 1808 — Deposition of Sultan fcelim III. — Succession to the Throne of Sultan Moustapha IV. — Entry of Sultan Moustapha Bairaktar into Constantinople — Violent Death of sultan Selim — Deposition of Moustapha IV. — Elevation of Sultan Mahmoud II. 350

Letter XXXIII

New revolution of the month of November, 1808 — Death of Moustapha Bairaktar and of Sultan Moustapha IV. — Destruction of the Seimens, troops of the Nizami Djedid. 358

Letter XXXIV

Constantinople — Positition of this city — Environs— Shores of the Bosphorus — Population — Turks — Raias — Armenians — Jews — Europeans, or Franks — Hamals, or porters — Sakkas, or water-carriers — Boatmen — Seraglio of the Grand Signor — Imperial mosques of Santa Sophia and of Sultan Ahmed — Square of the Hippodromus, or At Meidan — Obelisks and other monuments — Imperial castle of the Seven Towers, or Jed Koule, Sec. &c. 363

Letter XXXV

Excursion to Scutari, and the Grand Signor' s Paper manufactory (Hounkia Iskelesi) established by Sultan Selim, &c. &c. CONTENTS. PAGB

Letter XXXVI

Journey from Constantinople to Lemberg, or Leopold, in Austrian Gallicia — Aiolou Bourgas — Choumba — Roustchouk — Camp of the Grand Vizir on the banks of the Danube — Chistow — Rhova — Lom — Widdin — Entry into Wallachia — Kalafut — Russian outposts — Craiova — Bucharest — Rimnick — Entry into Moldavia — Fokchan — Galatz — Yassy — Balabut — Chotzim — Entry into Poland — Okop— Tarnopol — Zatchow — Arrival at Lemberg, capital of Austrian Gallicia — Description of that city. 386 Itinerary calculated by Hours of March from Constantinople to Teheran, &c. 395 Biographical Sketches of his Excellency Mirza Aboul Hassan Khan. 399 The Plate should be bound in at page 202. LETTERS, §sC

Letter I

Preliminary Explanations, ke. Constantinople, Sept. 8, 180T. A iiesidence of three years in this capital having enabled me to collect various observations on the country, its manners and customs, I was preparing to put a finishing hand to the work in order to forward it to you, when an event, which I consider fortunate because it will permit me to make new and still more curious researches, has occurred to retard the execution of my pro ject. General Gardane, minister plenipotentiary from France to the king of Persia, arrived at Constantinople a month ago, and I have this moment received an order to prepare for accom panying him to Teheran. I had for a long time past been desirous of performing this journey, and I have more than once missed the opportunity. B EXPLANATIONS. but I shall no longer have reason to regret that circumstance, as it would have been extremely difficult to undertake it under more favourable auspices than the present.

Determined that you shall not lose by the change, I intend to communicate all the circumstances which appear worthy of notice, according as they present themselves in the course of our journey. We are going to traverse Turkey in Asia, Armenia, and Persia. I need scarcely add that these interesting countries are fertile mines for the observations of the European traveller. My principal object is to depict the actual state of the various countries which we visit, having always considered this plan as the most likely to excite interest : I shall touch very lightly on the history of wars and revolutions, leaving a more detailed account of these to other writers, We travel in company with Mirza Muhammed Riza, minister plenipotentiary from the court of Persia to the French government. He comes from Warsaw, at which place he found Napo leon, and where his mission terminated, for the events of the war did not admit of his proceed ing to Paris.

He is a fine-looking man ; wears his beard long, and a very rich dress ; his whole discourse with us is on the magnificence of his sovereign, and the wonders which we are going to see in Persia. In adopting the unfavourable ideas of the Turks on that nation, I should most probably imbibe some of their prejudices ; THE CARAVAN. but this would have destroyed the agreeable illusion which enables one to support the fatigues of long and painful journies. Our ambassador has already ordered a considerable number of horses to be engaged for those who accompany him, and a proportionate sup ply of mules for our baggage. We shall form a caravan of about one hundred persons, including the Turkish muleteers and their kervandii baschi, or chief of the caravan. A mehmandar, an officer of the Porte, is appointed to conduct the embassy to the frontiers of Persia, and to take care that it shall be properly supplied with provi sions.

Finally, a konaktchi-bachi, under the orders of the former, will precede us, one day's journey in advance, to prepare accommodations, &c. The General, finding so numerous a company sufficiently formidable in itself, has not considered it necessary to demand an escort ; we are, in fact, all armed, as if we were going on a military expe dition. These precautions should not surprise you in a country where the roads are often infested with robbers, and in which the very shepherds guard their flocks with pistols, a poignard in their belts, and a gun on the shoulder. u DEPARTURE.

Letter II

Departure from Constantinople. — Scutari ; Journey from that Town to Nicomedia, or Ismith. — Kartal. — Pentik. — Gheibize. — Herekia. — Description of Nicomedia. — Visit to the Pacha. Nicomedia, Sept. 13, 1807. We left Constantinople three days ago. On the 10th, in the morning, we crossed the Bos phorus, and landed at Scutari, a town situated on the coast of Asia, opposite the capital : it is the Chrysopolis, or golden city, of the ancients ; so named, no doubt, from the magical effect pro duced on it by the setting sun. We all assembled at the house of Mirza Muhammed Riza, the Persian ambassador mentioned in my last. He inhabited Scutari, according to the usual custom of his countrymen who come to Constantinople ; and his konak, or hotel, was the general place of meeting for the two embassies.

At half past four in the afternoon we caused our baggage to be laden, mounted our horses, and the caravan commenced its march to Kartal, a large town five hours* distance from Scutari, in a rich country, well cultivated and full of beauti ful gardens. * Distances are counted in Turkey by saat, or hours of march of a horse or a caravan. GULF OF NICOMEDIA. 5 Our second day's journey was terminated at Gheibize, a handsome little town, where there is a bazar, and square ornamented with a neat foun tain. During those two days we coasted along the shores of the gulf of Nicomedia, and if we suffered excessively from the heat, we were amply compensated by the charming landscapes which have been almost constantly in view. On leaving the village of Pentik, the ancient Panticapea, which is now inhabited only by Greek fishermen, a large vine full of excellent grapes, and completely ripe, seemed to invite us to take some refreshment, and accordingly several of our party did not fail to allay their thirst there.

Thus far nothing remarkable occurred ; we em ployed the afternoon in walking about Gheibize, and passed the night in a large khan or caravan sery, in a ruinous state. Our baggage remained at the entrance of the town, under the care of the muleteers of the caravan. Previous to entering Nicomedia, where we slept last night, the landscape was changed for a few moments, but without being the less pictu resque. A road cut into the solid rock rendered the beginning of our journey more painful than that of the preceding day, but we were soon agreeably surprised to find, at the foot of a sterile and parched declivity, the ruins of an ancient town called Heraclea, on which is built the village of Herekia. This place is not large, but its position on the banks of a stream shaded with beauti- TURKISH TYRANNY. ful fig and other fruit trees, rendered it very agreeable, and induced us to halt there to break fast.

Here we saw the ruins of a castle which belongs to more modern times, and is said to have been built by the Genoese. All the country which separates Heraclea from Nicomedia, in a space of about six leagues, is covered with wood. Nicomedia, or Ismith as the Turks now call it, was the extent of this day's journey; we arrived there in the afternoon, and were lodged in a handsome house belonging to one of the principal Greeks : I should add, that our mehmandar caused the doors to be broken open, on the refusal of the proprietor to receive us ! We could not have found any place to lodge in, if abandoned to ourselves in a country desti tute of inns and lodgings for travellers ; and were therefore obliged to confide in our Mahometan conductors, merely endeavouring to mitigate as much as possible the tyranny they exercise on those poor people in the name of the Grand Sig nor.

The ambassador was received on his arrival by the Tersana-emini, superintendant of the arse nal of this city, who presented us, according to custom, with pipes and coffee in a kiosk on the sea shore. A bin-bachi, or colonel of the Nizami Djedid, new troops trained in the European mode, came this morning to conduct us to the Pacha, who had taken the precaution of ordering the dead bodies of a man that was hanged, and another beheaded, NICOMEDIA. 7 which had been exposed in front of his palace, to be removed previous to the General's visit. The Pacha received the ambassador with all the honours due to his rank : he informed us that he was preparing to march against the rebel Kara Osman, who occupies Sabandje, a neighbouring district to the eastward. In fact, the city is full of his troops, and what is more ex traordinary in these countries, the inhabitants have not much reason to complain of their indiscipline.

Sabandje being in our road, the Pacha has deemed it his duty to recommend our taking another direction, which will lead us some leagues out of our way, in order to avoid meeting the rebels. Nicomedia is eighteen leagues east of Constan tinople, at the extremity of a gulf, to which it has given its name. This city, the residence of a Pacha, contains about twenty thousand inhabitants, Greeks, Armenians, and Turks, the latter forming the chief part of the inhabitants. The Armenians have their houses on a hill which commands the town, and whence some ruins are perceived. Its inclosure is full of the remains of ancient monuments, which we had not time to visit, and its environs pestiferous on the side of the sea, from the stench of some salt pans, are on the opposite side covered with fruitful gardens of all kinds, the produce of which is transported to Constantinople. The forests in the vicinity contain excellent timber for ship building. ROUTE CONTINUED.

Letter III

Road from Nicomedia to Nicea, or Isnick. — Karamousal. — Kiz Dervend. — Lake Ascanius. — Poialidja. — Description of Nice, its Antiquities, &c. Nicea, Sept. 15, 1807. Two days have passed since our departure from Nicomedia, and no disagreeable accident has yet happened to disturb the gaiety which animates our caravan : I consider this as a good omen, and if we have not hitherto experienced many priva tions, we shall have need of it when the hardships usually incidental to travelling in those countries commence. We left the walls of Nicomedia the day before yesterday, at seven in the morning, escorted by some horsemen of the Pacha. The first object that presented itself to our notice on quitting the city, was a permanent gibbet, which seemed to await some new victim. Having deviated from the usual road, to avoid meeting the rebels, I do not think we lost by the change, as it obliged us to coast the oppo site shore of the gulf ; it is impossible to witness a more beautiful country : this was still more rich than the one we followed in going to Nicomedia.