The North-West Coast; or, three years' residence in Washington Territory. ... With ... illustrations

Front matter

I__t-.Ui.Ml 'MEN T OF L1BDTENA-NT PUGBT ON PUGET BOUND. THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, THREE YEARS' RESIDENCE IN WASHINGTON TERRITORY. By JAMES G. SWAN. with numerous illustrations. NEW YORK : HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE. 1857. Entered, according to Act oreSiliJfes; in the year one thousand eight hundred and fifty-seven, by Harper & Brothers, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Southern District of New York. TO THE HON. J. PATTON ANDERSON, THE FIRST UNITED STATES MARSHAL AND SECOND DELEGATE TO CONGRESS FROM WASHINGTON TEREITORY, ®hig tiOork is JiespectfnUrj Jnscribeb BY HIS FRIEND, JAMES G. SWAN.

Introduction

. The intention of this volume is to give a general and concise account of that portion of the Northwest Coast lying between the Straits of Fuca and the Columbia River — a region which has never attracted the explorers and navigators of the Northwest, since the times of Meares and Vancouver, sufficiently for them to give it more than a passing remark. The fine bay north of the Columbia (Shoalwater Bay), which was discovered and named by Meares in 1789, and surveyed by Lieutenant Alden, of the United States Coast Survey, in 1852, was actually passed through by the boats of Wilkes's Exploring Expedition, who merely mentions the fact, without considering the bay of suffi cient importance either to give it a passing notice or even place it on his chart. At the present time, when every thing relating to the Northwest frontier is looked upon with interest, and par ticularly the country around the Columbia River, Gray's Harbor, and Puget Sound, it was thought that some later information than can be found in the works of Ross Cox, Lewis and Clarke, and Irving, would be acceptable, both to those persons desirous of emigration to the region west of the Rocky Mountains, as well as those who already have friends in the Territory.

INTRODUCTION.

. VI To make the work of interest to the general reader, I have been obliged, while endeavoring to bring forward each subject worthy of interest, to condense and confine myself within certain limits, so as not to elaborate too much any one topic. I have, so far as possible, only related such circum stances as have come under my immediate observation ; and, whenever I have been obliged to deviate from this rule, I have invariably given credit to the proper source, and have been particularly careful to endeavor to be ac curate as to date in matters of historical information, nar rating all facts, whether as regards my own personal ad ventures, or tales of the Indians, or anecdotes of the settlers, in a simple manner, and in the order of their occurrence ; consequently, most of the narrative will be confined to the immediate Pacific coast, and to descrip tions of Shoal-water Bay during my residence of three years.

In all matters relating to the Indians, I only give an account of those T have lived with, the Chenooks, Che halis, and one or two tribes north of Gray's Harbor. Having lost a valuable collection of notes, made dur ing my residence among the Coast tribes, I am unable to give the interesting legends and mythological tales I should have done, and which might have been of interest to many persons ; still, enough has been written to give a general idea of facts concerning the Indians of the Bay which have not before been mentioned, with vocabularies of their language and specimens of their music. I take this opportunity to acknowledge my obliga tions to the Hon. J. Patton Anderson, Delegate to Con gress from Washington Territory ; Henry R. Schoolcraft, LL.D., of Washington City ; J. Carson Brevoort, Esq.,

INTRODUCTION.

. VII and Professor W. Gibbs, of New York ; John M'Mullen, Esq., Librarian of New York Society Library ; Dr. J. G. Cogswell, Librarian of the Astor Library, and Mr. Poole, Librarian of the Boston Athenæum ; also, Hon. William Sturgis, and William Tufts, Esq., of Boston, for valuable information, and assistance in enabling me to refer to such works of history, voyages, or statistics as were nec essary while writing. A2 CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Voyage from San Francisco to Shoal-water Bay.— Brig Oriental.— Passengers on board the Brig.— Ship a heavy Sea.— Mouth of the Columbia.— Quantities of Drift-wood.— Cross the Bar at Shoalwater Bay.— Heavy Sea Page 17 CHAPTER H. Discovery of Shoal-water Bay by Meares in 1788.— His Description of it.— Indians come out of the Bay in a Canoe.— Thick Fog.— Meares's Long-boat Expedition to the Bay.— Attack by Indians.— Vancouver's Description.— Alden's Survey.— First Settlers.— Description of Shoal-water Bay 20 CHAPTER IH. Russell's House.— Description of Toke and Suis.— Russell tells the Indians I am a Doctor. — Style of Medicine. — Salmon Fishing on the Palux. — Old Cartumhays. — Our Reception at his Lodge. — Camp on the Palux.— Duck Shootings-Great Quantities of Salmon.— Falls of the Palux. — The Devil's Walking-stick. — Singular Superstition of the Indians 33 CHAPTER rV.

Wreck of the Willemantic. — Joe the Steward and his curry Stews. — Climate of the Pacific. — Causes of the Mildness of Temperature. — Quantities of Rain. — Early Spring. — Method of learning the Indian Language. — Captain Purrington clearing Land. — Immense Trees. — Indians' Small-pox. — Indians die. — Russell sick. — Tomhays sick. — Queaquim dies. — Solemn Scene 43

CHAPTER V.

Arrival of Indians from the North. — Description of the Oysters and Oyster-fishers of Shoal-water Bay. — Hospitality of early Settlers. — Joel L. Brown. — Captain Weldon. — Winter in Oregon 59

CHAPTER VI.

Stony Point. — Visit of Walter and myself to the Memelose Tillicums, or Dead People. — Basaltic Boulders. — Indian Tradition respecting them. CONTENTS. X —Legend of the Doctor and his Brother.— The Giants build a great Fire to heat Stones—They boil out the Bay .-The Doctor finds his Brother in a Fish's Bellv.— Bear-hunt on Stony Point.— Bartlett kills the Bear.— Method of burying the Dead.— We find a Mummy.—Rus sell sends the Mummy to San Francisco.— Opinions of scientific Per sons respecting the Mummy.— An instance of another Body being preserved.— I get capsized at Stony Point.— Take a Claim on the Querquelin River.— Description of the Claim and our mode of Liv ing.—Method of Canoe-making.— Seal-catching.— Method of catch ing Fish.— Indian Food.— Description of the Roots and Berries.— Sea Otter.— River Otter.— Beaver.— Furs Page 67

CHAPTER VII.

Visit to the Columbia River.— Our Troubles while crossing the Portage.— Description of the Beach around Baker's Bay to Chenook.— Scarborough's Hill.— Captain Scarborough.— The Priest's House at Chenook.— Bill M'Carty or Brandywine.— Salmon-fishing at Chenook.— Splendid View of Mount Saint Helen's.— Description of the Salmon and of the Fishery.— Indian Customs on the first Appearance of Salmon.— The present Remnant of the Chenook Tribe. — Description of Chenook Village. — Its favorable Location. — Washington Hall, Esq., the Postmaster. — Indian Lodges.— A Description of the method of building them. — Our Return home, and the funny Scenes we passed through. — Old Champ and his Fish 97 CHAPTER vrn. The Country of the Columbia. — Discovery of the Columbia. — Gray's Harbor. — The Coast north of the Columbia. — Fuca Strait. — Puget Sound. — Geographical Errors in naming Places. — Excellent Harbors. — Mount Olympus. — Separation of Washington from Oregon. — The Columbia and its Tributaries. — The Dalles. — Wappatoo Island. — Heceta's Voyage. — Attack by Savages. — Point Grenville and Destruction Island. — River St. Roc. — Vancouver. — Sloop Washington and Ship Columbia. — Captain Gray. — Lieutenant Broughton and the Brig Chatham. — Account of the Outfit of the Ship Columbia in 1787. — Captain John Kendrick. — Gray discovers the Columbia. — Building of the Adventure at Clyoquot 117 CHAPTER TX.

The Oystermen celebrate the 4th of July. — A Speech and a great Bonfire. — Arrival of Emigrants. — Colonel H. K. Stevens. — Fishing-party on the Nasal River. — We go up the River to an Indian Camp. — Method of catching Salmon. — We catch rotten Logs. — The Colonel falls overboard. — A Chase after a Salmon. — Indian Style of catching Trout. — Their Medicine to allure Fish. — Immense Quantities of Salmon in Shoal-water Bay. — Wreck of Brig Palos. — Description of my CONTENTS. XI House. — High Tides. — Quantities of Wild-fowl. — A Gale of Wind. — Heavy Rain. — The Gale increases, and blows down our Chimney. — Damage done by the Storm. — Narrow Escape from being killed by a falling Precipice. — Arrival of Indians. — Pepper Coffee.— Ludicrous Plight of the Natives. — Their Superstition. — They try to shoot a Ghost. — They are scared by a Pumpkin Lantern. — Poisoning Crows. — Method of preserving Cabbages from the Indians Page 133

CHAPTER X.

Old Suis relates about the Indians of the Bay. — A Description of the Coast Indians. — Writers apt to confuse the Reader in Accounts of Indians. — General Appearance. — Dress of Women. — Dress of Men. — Smoking. — Fondness for Ardent Spirits. — Whom they received the first from. — Gambling. — A Description of gambling Games. — Ornaments. — Description of the Howqua or Wampum. — Method of obtaining the Shells. — Evidences of Wealth. — Great Weight of Ear Ornaments. — Position of Females among the Coast Tribes. — Duties of Women. — Various Manufactures. — Lodge Furniture. — Ancient Method of Cooking. — Bread-making. — Peter's Method of making Bread. — Time of Eating. — Slaves. — Fondness of Indians for their Children. — Method of flattening the Head. — Flat Head a mark of Aristocracy. — Reception of Strangers. — Reception of Friends. — Singular Custom. — Great Newsmongers. — Polygamy. — Customs toward young Girls. — Singular Superstition. — Fasts. — Religion. — Heathenism 151

CHAPTER XI.

Doctors, or Medicine-men. — Simples used as Medicine. — Polypodium. — Wild-cat Hair. — An excellent Salve. — Disinclination of Indians to impart Information in regard to their Medicines. — Necromancy of the Doctors. — Sickness of Suis. — Sacodlye, the Doctor, and his Magic. — Old John, the Doctor, and his Method. — John removes the Devil and Suis recovers. — Old Sal-tsi-mar's Sickness and Death. — Description of the Burial. — Funeral Ceremonies. — Death Songs. — Change of Names on the Death of a Friend. — Meaning of Indian Names. — Superstitions and Ceremonies. — Effects of Christianity. — Missionaries. — The Indian Idea of the Christian Religion 176

CHAPTER XII.

Amusements. — Games. — Children's Amusements.— Imitate the Priest. — Readily learn Needle-work. — Fond of Singing. — Songs. — History of the Chenooks and Chehalis. — Difficulty of understanding the Legends. — Creation of Man. — Origin of Coast Tribes. — Evidences of Emigration. — Tradition of a Junk wrecked at Clatsop Beach. — Beeswax found on the Beach. — Remarks on the various Theories respect- CONTENTS. XII ing the Origin of the Indians. — Lewis and Clarke's Names of Tribes. — The correct Names of the Tribes. — Former Tribes of Shoal-water Bay. — Evidences of great Mortality among the Coast Tribes. — The Feeling of the Indians respecting the Dead. — Meares's Account of the Nootkans being Cannibals. — Vancouver doubts the Truth of Meares. — Indian Dread of Skulls. — Anecdote respecting their Fears Page 197 CHAPTER XHL Trip to San Francisco. — Captain Smith and his Goggles. — We get nearly wrecked by reason of the Fog on Captain Smith's " Specks." — Arrive safe at last. — Return to the Columbia in Steamer Peytona. — Port Orford.— Captain Tichenor. — Cedar of Port Orford.— Mouth of the Columbia. — Not so terrible as generally represented. — Arrival at Astoria. — History of Astoria. — Captain Smith, of the Ship Albatross. — John Jacob Astor. — Ship Tonquin, Captain Thome. — Ship Beaver, Captain Sowles. — Ross Cox's Description of Astoria. — Loss of the Tonquin. — Ship Lark. — Astoria sold to the Northwest Company. — The Raccoon Sloop-of-war. — Brig Peddler. — Ship Isaac Todd and her Passengers. — First white Woman. — Death of Mr. M'Tavish. — Restoration of Astoria to the Americans. — H. B. M. Frigate Blossom salutes the Flag. — Various Expeditions, &e. — First Emigration. — Jesuits. — Present Appearance of Astoria. — Military Road, &c 215

CHAPTER XIV.

Cross the Columbia to Chenook. — Meet Fiddler Smith. — We start for Shoal-water Bay with Captain Johnson. — Johnson falls overboard. — John Edmands. — Ox-team Express. — Get stuck in the Swamp. — Captain Nichols and his Whale-boat. — The Fiddler and myself take Passage. — Safe Arrival. — Another Start for Astoria. — Detention by Storm. — General Adair, of Astoria. — Canoe Adventure with Peter. — Sturgeon-fishing. — Salleel and his Sturgeons' Heads. — Johnson's Lake. — A hard Walk. — Toke in the Mud. — Brook Navigation. — Indian Method of making Fire. — Rate of Speed home. — Strawberry Expedition 239

CHAPTER XV.

Visit to the Queniult Indians with Winant and Roberts. — Cross the Bay and camp with the Indians. — Carcowan and Tleyuk. — Trouble on starting. — Arrival at Gray's Harbor. — Armstrong's Point. — Difficulty with Caslahhan. — Sam fires at Caslahhan. — A Settlement. — Swarms of Fleas. — Our Camp. — We proceed up the Beach. — Adventure with a Bear. — Reach the Copalis River. — Wreck of the Steamer General Warren. — The Current north of the Columbia. — Appearance of the Coast. — Point Grenville. — Arrive at Queniult. — Peculiar Variety of Salmon. — Indian Tricks. — I am taken sick. — Old Carcowan wishes CONTENTS. XIII to have me killed. — Description of the Queniults. — Start for Shoal water Bay. — Indian Hospitality. — Bird Feast at Point Grenville. — Style of Cooking. — Heavy Surf and a Capsize. — We proceed through the Breakers. — Arrive at Gray's Harbor. — A Feast. — Fine View. Reach Home Page 250

CHAPTER XVI.

Arrival of Winant and Roberts. — An Election. — Our first Justice, Squire Champ. — Big Charley. — First Court in the Bay. — Constable Charley makes an Arrest. — A Trial, and a celebrated Verdict. — Another Arrest and Trial.— Joe locked up in a Hen-house.— First Vessel built in the Bay. — Bruce Company. — Uncle Ned. — Captain John Morgan. — Monument of Oyster Shells to Russell. — Hay-e-mar. — A Trip up the Whil-a-pah for Salmon. — Walter's Point. — Sam Woodward's Claim. — Roaring Bill. — Ancient Mariners. — Old Chillewit. — Night Fishing. — Lively Time. — Start for Home. — Shoot a Lynx. — Otter Shooting. — Charley sees the Memelose or dead Folks. — Singular Occurrence. — We get rid of Charley. — First Trail from the Cowlitz. — Lime-kiln for burning Shells 277 CHAPTER XVH. County Line. — Jury Duty. — United States Court at Chenook. — The Court-house. — Grand Jury. — Trial of Lamley for killing an Indian. — Grand Jury Room very Fishy. — Witnesses. — Captain Johnson. — His funny Address to the Court. — He throws himself on the Mercy of the Court. — Captain Scarborough. — Bill Martindill. — The Captain's Advice to Bill. — The District Attorney and his Address. — The Counsel for the Defense quotes from the " Arabian Nights." — He gains the Case. — Captain Johnson's Vinegar Speculation. — Johnson's Death. — Death of Captain Scarborough. — Fidelity of an Indian Squaw. — Return home. — Sharp Work in a Canoe. — Adventure with Caslahhan 292 CHAPTER XVIH.

Language of the Indians. — The Jargon. — Different Methods of spelling Words by Writers. — Difficulty of rightly understanding the Jargon. — How a Language can be formed.— Origin of the Indian Language. — Remarks of Mr. Squier. — Irish-sounding Words in the Chehalis Tongue. — An amusing Parable. — Views of Mr. Duponceau. — Remarks of Gliddon. — Resemblance between Chehalis and Aztec Words. — Facts relative of Indian Journeys south. — Mrs. Ducheney's Narrative. — Difficulty of Indians in pronouncing certain Letters. — Cause of the chuckling Sound of the Northwest Languages. — Persons apt to misunderstand Indian Words. — Dislike of Indians to learn English. — Winter Amusements. — Tomhays and the Geese. — Arrival of Settlers. — Doctor Johnson. — The Doctor and myself act CONTENTS. XIV as Lawyers in Champ's Court. — Strong Medicine. — Kohpoh mistaken for a 'Coon.— Visit of the Klickatats.— Christmas Dinner on Crow. — Baked Skunk.— Fisherman's Pudding Page 306

CHAPTER XIX.

Indian Treaties. — Invitation to be present at a Treaty on the Chehalis River. — Journey to the Chehalis. — Various Adventures. — We reach the River and encamp. — A lively Scene going up to the Treaty-ground. — Description of the Encampment. — Governor Stevens. — Whites present. — Indians. — Uniform of the Governor. — Colonel Simmons. — Story-telling. — The Governor backs up my Stories. — Judge Ford. — Commissary Cushman. — The Treaty. — Indians will not agree to it. — Number of Indians in the Coast Tribes. — Tleyuk.— Governor takes away Tleyuk's "Paper." — Indians have no Faith in the Americans. — The Conduct of the Hudson Bay Company contrasted with that of the Americans. — We start for Home and encounter a Storm. — Chehalis River. — Adventures on our Journey home. — Colonel Anderson's Adventures 327

CHAPTER XX.

The Whale.— Toke in the Whale's Belly.— Blubber Feast.— Doctor Johnson and myself as Counsel. — Higher Law. — Champ's Decision. — Loss of Schooner Empire. — Captain Davis. — Captain Eben P. Baker. — M'Carty's Child among the Indians. — Her Rescue. — Feelings of the Indians toward Whites. — Remarks on the Indian Character. — They can live peaceably with Whites. — Course adopted by the Hudson Bay Company toward Indians. — Suggestions about a System of Sub-agencies. — Correct Views of the Hudson Bay Company respecting Indians. — The Conduct of the Company toward Americans. — They do not wish Americans among them. — History of the Hudson Bay Company and their Proceedings toward Americans. — Cause of the Outbreak among the Indians.— Gold Mines.— General Palmer. — General Wool. — Remarks, &c 360

CHAPTER XXI.

Description of Washington Territory.— Face of the Country.— Mountains, Minerals, Rivers, Bays, and Lakes.— Objects of Interest to the Tourist.— Falls of the Snoqualmie.— Colonel Anderson's Description. —Anecdote of Patkanim.— He forms an Alliance with Colonel Mike Simmons.— Constructive Presence of Colonel Simmons at a Fight.— Productions of the Territory.— Governor Stevens's Remarks.— Northern Pacific Rail-road.— Military Roads.— Public Spirit.— Appropriations by Congress.— Judge Lancaster.— Population.— Advantages to Emigrants.— Whale Fishery.— Russian Trade.— Amoor River.— Vancouver's Views on Climate.— Winter of 1 806 in Latitude 56° North.— Salmon, 1807.— Closing Remarks.— Letter from Colonel Anderson. — Advice to Emigrants LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 1. Map of the Western Part of Washington Territory, compiled by the Author from the U. S. Coast Survey Charts, and from the Map of the Surveyor General at Washington. 2.

Frontispiece. An Encampment of Lieutenant Peter Puget, while making his Exploration of Puget Sound. From an original Sketch by John Sykes, one of Vancouver's Draughtsmen. 3. Vignette on Title-page. Territorial Seal. The Motto, Al-kij is an Indian word, meaning hereafter, or by-and-by. 4. C. J. W. Russell's House and Indian Lodge. From an original Sketch by the Author Page 32 5. Camp on the Palux. From an original Sketch by the Author 37 6. Indian Implements. " " " " " 39 7 and 8. Flowers. These are drawn one third their natural size 47, 48 9. Forests in Oregon 52 10. Oystermen waiting for the Tide 61 11. Bear-fight on Stony Point. Sketch by Author 71 12. Querquelin River, and Residence of J. G. Swan. Sketch by Author. Toke's Lodge on the right of the Cut 75 13 and 14. Canoes. From the Original in Possession of the Author.

The Head or Bows of all these Canoes are to the lest hand on the Cuts 79, 80 15. Otter Hunt 93 16. Salmon Fishing at Chenook. Sketch by Author 106 17. Medal of Ship Columbia 131 18. Indian Cradle. The Child in this Cut is elevated from the cradle, so as to show the method of compressing the Head, which would not be seen in its real Position, where nothing of the Infant is visible but its Face 163 19. Method of Burial. Sketch by Author 187 20. Port Orford Rock 218 21. Fight on Battle Rock 221 22. Queniult Village. Sketch by Author 262 23. Point Grenville. " " " 269 it 24. Inside of Indian Lodge. " " 331 a 25. Camp on the Treaty Ground. Sketch by Author 336 26. Outside of Indian Lodge. ' 339 27. Blubber Feast 361 28. Medal of Lewis and Clarke &G

CHAPTER I.

Voyage from San Francisco to Shoal-water Bay. — Brig Oriental. — Passengers on board the Brig. — Ship a heavy Sea. — Mouth of the Columbia. — Quantities of Drift-wood. — Cross the Bar at Shoal-water Bay. — Heavy Sea. During the fall of 1852, having received an invitation from my friend, Mr. Charles J. W. Russell, of Shoal water Bay, to make him a visit, I determined to accept his kind offer, and accordingly secured a passage on board the brig Oriental, Captain Hill, which was bound up the Bay for a cargo of piles and spruce timber. I had always, from my earliest recollections, a strong de sire to see the great River Columbia, and to learn some thing of the habits and customs of the tribes of the Northwest. This desire had been increased by the visit of a chief of the Clalam tribe of Indians from Puget Sound, who arrived at San Francisco, where I was then residing, and who received a great deal of attention from me during his visit of two or three weeks.

This chief, whose name was Chetzamokha, and who is known by the whites as the Duke of York, was very urgent to have me visit his people. Subsequently, on his return home, he sent me a present of a beautiful ca noe, and a bag containing a quantity of cornelians, which are found along the shores of the bays and rivers of "Washington and Oregon Territories. I found, on joining the brig, that there were several passengers bound to the Bay, and I concluded, as they were all captains of vessels, we should have a very pleas ant time. There was Captain Hill, the master, Captain Pratt, the mate, and Captain Baker, Captain Weldon, Captain Swain, Captain Russell, and myself for passen gers. I bebeve, with the exception of myself and the cook, who was called Doctor, every one on board the brig had held some office.

I was the only one addressed as Mister, and, as Captain Baker remarked, it was quite re freshing to have one person on board without a title. We left the harbor of San Francisco about noon on the 20th of November, and the old brig being very light, we were tumbled about in a lively manner while cross ing the bar, where there was a tremendous swell running in from the southwest. However, we suffered no dam age, and soon found ourselves on our course with a fair wind. We continued on in this manner for three days, without any thing occurring of interest, and the monot ony of the scene only broken by the stories of the com pany of captains, who, sailor-like, never let slip an op portunity of relating a jest or an anecdote. On the fourth day, being in the latitude of the Columbia River, the wind came out ahead, and blew with violence from the northwest.

This soon raised a heavy sea, and the brig could make but little progress. On the evening of the 24th, while standing by the cabin table with the captain, looking over the chart, we shipped a sea which stove in the window of the cabin (which looked out on deck), knocked me clear over the table, drenched the captain, put out the lights, and set the whole cabin afloat. The other passengers had turned into their berths, where they lay telling stories, and they were most in tensely delighted with the adventure. The steward soon came, who lighted the lamp, swabbed up the floor, and set us to rights. The next morning we found ourselves about thirty miles to the westward of the Columbia Riv er, from which a huge volume of water was running, carrying in its course great quantities of drift-logs, boards, chips, and saw-dust, with which the whole water around us was covered.

During the freshets in this river, the force of the current of fresh water discharged from it is sufficient to discolor the ocean for sixty miles from the coast. The wind continuing to blow from the northwest, we beat about till the 28th, when, running in-shore, we made Cape Shoal-water, the northern point at the entrance to Shoal-water Bay. A heavy sea was breaking on the bar, and no opening presented itself to us. Russell, who was acting pilot, felt afraid to venture, and wished to stand off; but, by the time he had made up his mind, we had neared the entrance, so that it was impossible for us to turn to windward, and the only alternative was to go ashore or go into the harbor. Every man was stationed at his post — Captain Hill and one man at the wheel, Captains Swain and Russell on the fore-yard, looking out, Captain Weldon heaving the lead, the sailors at the braces, and Captain Baker and myself watching to see the fun.

The breakers were very high, and foamed, and roared, and dashed around us in the most terrific manner ; but the old brig was as light on them as a gull, and, without shipping a drop of water, passed over and through them all ; and after running up the channel about two miles, we came to an chor in smooth water, and found ourselves safe and sound in Shoal-water Bay.

Chapter II

Discovery of Shoal-water Bay by Meares in 1788.— His Description of it.— Indians come out of the Bay in a Canoe.— Thick Fog.— Meares's Long-boat Expedition to the Bay.— Attack by Indians.— Vancouver's Description.— Alden's Survey.— First Settlers.— Description of Shoal-water Bay. Shoal-water Bay lies north of the Columbia River, between Capes Shoal-water and Disappointment. Cape Disappointment is in latitude 46° 16' north, and longi tude 124° 01' west from Greenwich. And Toke's Point, or the extreme northwest point of Cape Shoal-water, and the northern shore at the entrance of Shoal-water Bay, is in latitude 46° 43' north, and longitude 124° 02' west, making the distance from the entrance of the Co lumbia River to that of Shoal-water Bay twenty-seven miles. Cape Shoal-water and Shoal-water Bay were discov ered by Lieutenant John Meares, commanding the East India Company's Ship Felice, of London, on Saturday, July 5th, 1788.

Meares, who had been to Nootka, and other trading-posts north, for the purpose of collecting furs, had left a part of his company to build a small schooner, and was proceeding to the south to explore the great river discovered by the Spanish navigator Heceta on the 15th of August, 1775, and named by him Rio de San Roque, or River of St. Roc, and which was after ward entered by Captain Robert Gray, in the ship Co lumbia, of Boston, in 1792, and named by him the Co lumbia. Meares writes, "At noon our latitude was 47° 01' north, and the lofty mountains seen the preceding day bore east-northeast distant seven leagues. Our distance might be four leagues from the shore, which ap peared to run in the direction of east-southeast and west northwest, and there appeared to be a large sound or open ing in that direction.

By two o'clock we were within two miles of the shore, along which we sailed, which ap peared to be a perfect forest, without the vestige of a habitation. The land was low and flat, and our sound ings were from fifteen to twenty fathoms, over a hard sand. As we were steering for the low point which formed part of the entrance into the bay or sound, we shoaled our water gradually to six fathoms, when break ers were seen to extend quite across it, so that it ap peared to be quite inaccessible to ships. We immediately hauled off the shore till we deepened our water to sixteen fathoms. " This point obtained the name of Low Point (now Leadbetter Point), and the bay that of Shoal-water Bay, and a headland that was high and bluff, which formed the other entrance, was also named Cape Shoal-water. The latitude of the headland we judged to be 46° 47' north, and the longitude 235° 11' east of Greenwich."

(Vancouver makes the latitude of Cape Shoal-water 46° 40' north, and longitude 236° east, while Captain Al den, of the United States Coast Survey, makes the latitude 46° 43' minutes north, a mean which is most probable to be correct.) " The distance from Low Point to Cape Shoal-water was too great to admit of an observation in our present situation. The shoals still appeared to run from shore to shore, but when about midway we bore up near them in order to discover if there be not a channel near the cape. We accordingly steered for the mouth of the bay, when we shoaled our water to eight fathoms. At this time the breakers were not more than three miles from us, when it was thought prudent to again haul off. From the mast-head it was observed that this bay extended a considerable way inland, spread ing into several arms or branches to the northward and eastward.