The Ficus Elastica in Burma Proper, or a narrative of my journey in search of it, etc

Front matter

THE FICUS ELVSTT C A IN BURMA PROPER OK A NABMTIfE OF MY JOUMEY IN SEARCH QF IT: BY Q. W. STRETTELL. 4 P ,t n g o o n : TAINTED AT THE GOVERNMENT PRESS. j 8;7 6, THE FICUS ELASTICA IN BURMA PROPER OB A NARRATIVE OF MY JOURNEY IN SEARCH OF IT : A DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT OF ITS HABITS OF GROWTH AND THE PROCESS FOLLOWED BY THE KAKHYENS IN THE PREPARATION OF CAOUTCHOUC. JUcompitnicb by a iftap SHEWING THE GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION OF THE TREE IN ASSAM AND BURMA PROPER. BY G. W. STRETTELL. Rangoon : PRINTED AT THE GOVERNMENT PRESS. 1876. Page 1 26 55 73 121 208 i — v i — u CONTENTS. Preface. Chapter I. — Introduction Chapter II. — Stay at Mandalay from 14th to 18th December 1873 Chapter III. — Journey between Mandalay and Bhamo, including return voyage Chapter IV. — Bhamo, including a trip to the Kachyen hills via, the Taping river Chapter V. — From Bhamo to Mun-tsoung (latitude 26°) and back via Mogoung...

Chapter VI. — General recapitulation of aU facts associated with the Ficus eiastica General Index Table of Errata MAP shewing the Geographical distribution of the tree in Assam and Burma Proper.

Preface

. The introductory chapter sufficiently accounts for the delay in the submission of my MSS. to the press in the first instance, it therefore now only remains for me to explain the reason for so many months having elapsed before the completion of the work. The nature of my official duties demanding my presence in the districts for protracted periods, it was not until my return to head quarters, after gaps of two or three months, that I was in a position to revise proofs and sanction their being finally struck off. Unfor tunately, at such intervals, it often so happened that the Government Press was over-crowded with other work, or that there was a defi ciency of the type in which this report is printed : thus, when I was in a position to push on the work, the press was not available ; or vice versa, and so on this see-saw game was maintained, until more than one " reminder" from Government brought forth an order from the Secretariat, that my report was to keep pace with other official publications, which resulted in the completion of the last four chapters within the last six months.

My inability to do justice to the valuable materials at my disposal, has ever been a source of deep regret to me, and when it is found I am the first European who has trodden portions of the country described, and that many other parts referred to still remain involved in a mystery equally attractive to the traveller and natural ist ; the most striking feature in this report will unquestionably be the absence of interest it affords, and to no one can this fact be more obvious than it is to myself ; indeed, the scant manner in which I have alluded to the affinities, languages, customs, and faiths of the different tribes met with, makes me wish I had confined myself to the details set "forth in the concluding chapter until circumstances permitted of my turning to better account the information I am in possession of ; but it is now too late for alterations, or even for a final polish to the rough and sometimes incoherent simplicity of the work, it must therefore go from me in its present unvarnished con dition, with the one redeeming clause, that, if there is an absence of interest in the narrative, accuracy has been strictly maintained, for I have carefully endeavoured to overcome all approach to exaggera tion.

Compilation, it will be admitted, is at all times an arduous under taking, but in the present case the task has become more laborious by my having had to conduct it in the midst of other business which more than absorbed the time ordinarily allotted to Office duty ; thus the few hours I could borrow from night was the only available time for this work — leisure hours, that after the business of the day, were alike ill-adapted for calm reminiscences of past impressions or the unravelling of voluminous notes. Apart from this drawback, the collation had to be carried on in the districts, where I was both debarred the use of a scientific library — which materially detracts, from the value of deductions drawn — and the assistance and advice of scientific men — a sine qua non to one so absolutely unscientific as myself.

This will amply account for the very superficial manner in which I have treated on the fauna and flora of the country traversed ; but I hope during my furlough in England, with the aid of my extensive collections and the assistance of competent authorities, to re-produce an illustrated edition of this work, that will prove of equal interest to the general reader and naturalist. Chapters I. to IV. will doubtless hang heavily on those familiar with the physical geography of the country between Ran goon and Bhamo, such parts having already been frequently written about by literary architects; but as I was accurate in my observations, and regardless of the experience of those who had gone before me, I yet hope the subject has not been entirely exhausted, and that the reader may find something new or attractive in my narrative.

I owe my best thanks to Mr. Buchanan for the trouble he has taken in preparing proofs for me — no easy task, when dealing with the manuscript of one whose caligraphy bas often been compared to the trails of a spider after an ink bath. I would here also beg respectfully to draw attention to the very commendable manner in which my Interpreter, Moung Yan Sing, behaved throughout the journey, boldly facing every difficulty and standing by me in the thick of danger ; and I trust the local Gov ernment will see fit to recognize his good services in such manner as may be deemed adequate for work faithfully performed, even at the jeopardy of his own Use. He is not only a remarkably well educated man, but is strikingly intelligent, and I can without hesita tion strongly recommend him for promotion to the rank of Sub- Assistant Conservator — an office he is peculiarly adapted for, having a good constitution, and already acquainted with the local (and in many instances botanical) names of most of the forest trees, and their various economic uses.

It now only remains for me to add that, although, my mission was attended with privation and danger, yet I shall ever have reason to look back on this tour as a bright and merry holiday ; the work deputed me, is a life I revel in, and the fact that I have succeeded in bringing my errand to a successful end, is of itself ample compensation for the hardships encountered. Although my connection with this province is about to be severed, and it is questionable whether I shall ever see the fruits of my labour, yet I shall always feel a deep interest in this branch of forest industry — a new and important source of economic wealth, that must redound to the credit of the Chief Commissioner (the Hon' ble Ashley Eden), whose great administrative powers has rendered his name a household word in the province. G. W. STRETTELL, Rangoon ; The 11th April 1876. \ Deputy Conservator of Forests, British Burma. THE FICUS ELASTICA IN BURMA PROPER.

Introduction

.

SOME delay having occurred in the publication of this report, it is necessary that I should briefly explain the reason. It was on the 13th May 1874,1 returned to exDiainedin publication of report Rangoon from my mission in Upper p ' Burma, after an absence from British territory of nearly six months. During this time such of my divi sional duties as demanded immediate attention were either disposed of by the Conservator, or the Sub-Assistant Conservator in charge of the Government Timber Depot ; while other matters that could lie over till my return — which was, however, uncertain — were allowed to do so. All who have had work fall into arrears must well know how difficult it is to make up lost time ; and in the present instance the ordinary difficulty was materially increased from the fact that numerous references had to be made to timber contractors, and other officials in the districts, before the questions pending decision could be disposed of.

All this took time, for postal com munication in Burma is confined to the more important towns, and Forest Officers have to communicate with their subordinates and others as best they can. Thus it was the 15th of July 1874 before I found my work reduced to the ordinary daily routine of a divi sional officer's duty : just then, I had to leave for the districts, to select a suitable area for a lac preserve — a duty allotted me by the Chief Commissioner. By the 1st of August, I had completed this work, selected a suitable site for the " preserve," and prepared a system for introducing lac culture as a branch of forest industry. I now received a demi-official from the Conservator, informing me that the publication of my report — which I had already intimated was sufficiently advanced to pass through the press — would be post poned until my return to Rangoon, as the Chief Commissioner had ruled it should be curtailed, and open from date of my arrival at Mandalay.

This rather upset my original arrangements, and the hours I had spent at night, compiling my notes from Rangoon northwards, were wasted as concerns the present report. 2. It had at first been my intention, before dealing with the geographical and physical character- Present narrative to be received {i{ f COUntlT and liver north as jottings on subjects foreign to . ••■■ 1 1 i j j n -i. object of mission— a separate chapof Mandalay, to have recorded all items ter being devoted to this latter 0f interest that came under observation c jec ' from the day of embarkation at Ran goon, thus rendering my journal more complete and of greater service to future explorers of the country over which I had travelled. The present account of my tour in Upper Burma I would, however, now wish accepted merely in the light of jottings on all subjects other than those affecting the main object of my mission, to which I intend devoting a separate chapter, wherein I shall recapitulate, seriatim, all matters of interest associated with the Ficus eiastica ; finally treating briefly on the system I propose should be adopted for the introduction of the tree into the forests of British Burma, together with instructions, which may prove useful, for propagating the species, should it hereafter be found expedient to replenish our stock from Upper Burma.

Mr. Nepean, the Assistant Conservator, under whose management I had placed the propagation of lac, being new to the work, it was necessary I remained in his sub-division for a time, to start the project ; and, while instructing him in the system, I also completed the necessary arrangements for the supply of sleepers in my division for the Rangoon and Irrawaddy Valley (State) Railway, and inspected the Kyatsoo Creek, with a view to establishing an unimpeded through traffic during the cold season. It was the 10th September ere I returned to Rangoon. The Government Press was now overstocked with work, and unable to take up my report ; and as the map that accompanies it had not been received from Calcutta, where it was lithographed, there was no immediate hurry for the work being taken in hand.

I again left for the district, where my services were urgently required, on the 6th October, and did not return to Rangoon for two months. On the 10th of December 1874, I solicited permission to print my report, and on the 3rd of January 1875, sanction was accorded. 3. Having explained the cause of delay in the publication of my travels, and accounted for the incom v°^™°^r**i0n t0 V^te form in which my journal is now presented, it is only left for me to say a few words as to the origin of my mission to Upper Burma, con cluding this introductory chapter with a brief notice of Prome and Thayetmyo, — both places being in a measure associated with the duty deputed to me. I shall also notice a few of the more interesting places passed en route, and describe the process of box-making at Nyoun-goo, the general impression being at present that the articles are lacquer-ware, which is erroneous. 4.

It was in July 1873 I first heard through the Conservator that the Chief Commissioner had conferred on me the honour of carrying out the wishes of the Government of India, regarding the formation of Ficus eiastica plantations, and ascertaining the best method for working them in British territory. To facilitate this object, Mr. Eden directed that I should at once proceed to Upper Burma, and examine the forests there, making myself familiar with the general habits of the tree, the soil and locality best suited to it, the different methods of tapping, and the various systems pursued, in order to bring about the coalescence of the caoutchouc. The unhealthiness of the forests and difficulty of travelling during the rainy season, however, proved a barrier to my starting at once, and it was considered expedient to postpone my visit till November.

Accordingly, I started on my mission from Rangoon, on the 22nd of that month, in the steamer Ashley Eden, this being her maiden voyage. The strength of my party consisted of one Burman inter preter and seven Burman peons, three of whom were armed each with an old Brown Bess and half a dozen rounds of ammunition. 5. The voyage between Rangoon and Mandalay occupied a fortnight, which I believe is a little over Time occupied in voyage from the average run at this Season ; the Rangoon to Mandalay. , , ° . , , . . , ' , delay was partly brought about by accidents that occurred at different times, and partly by the low state of the river and shifting nature of its channels, which more than once necessitated the anchor being cast and soundings taken before the navigable channel could be decided on.

Each day, as we progressed onwards, fresh charms presented themselves — scenes of interest, not only to the pleasure-seeking excursionist, but equally so to one in search of wealth and knowledge. The scenery becomes bolder and more diversified the further we recede from British territory, until, a few miles south of the Golden City, we unexpectedly find ourselves entering what nearer resembles the Bay of Naples than any other place still fresh in my memory. Just here the river takes an almost right-angular bend, and it is not until the elbow is rounded that the beauty of the scenery is fully apparent. Now we find ourselves steaming beneath the picturesque range of the Sagain hills, studded with Buddhistic buildings, of all forms and sizes. The pagodas, but lately white washed, and capped with htees recently gilded, and the dark tripledroofed monasteries,* set in clumps of palms and other arborescent vegetation— all illuminated by the glorious lights of an eastern sunset— serve, with Mandalay hill as a back-ground, to complete a picture that cannot fail to impress itself on the memories of all who have been fortunate enough to view it. 6.

After leaving Rangoon, the first place we remained at sufficiently long to admit of a ramble Particulars of visit to Donabyoo. Qn wag neat -q^ vulage 0f Donabyoo, which is celebrated for the manufacture of mats made from the Morantha dichotoma. The pagoda here is also celebrated, I believe, and at certain seasons attracts thousands of people from great distances to witness the peculiar light sometimes to be seen encircling the htee. Like many other phenomena, various fanatic traditions are attached to this light ; it is supposed to have some thing ominous in its nature, and that success will attend all who have the good fortune to witness it. It is not improbable that the halo is nothing more than what is to be seen round mast-heads in northern and southern latitudes, or, perhaps, proceeds from a decomposition of animal or vegetable matter, or it may be brought about by the evolution of gases, which spontaneously ignite in the atmosphere.

But I must not give more time to a description of this station : our stock of fuel has been replenished, and we are off, so I proceed with my jottings further north. 7. Between Rangoon and Zaloon the scenery is uninteresting Descriptionof scenery andobser- |n the extreme, though not SO, per vasions made between Rangoon and haps, historically. Ihe features ot Zaloonthe'country are in general paludosal, and the banks lined with tall Saccharum and Arundo grasses ; but arborescent vegetation is markedly sparse. Zaloon is the northern hnlit of tidal influence, and also that of the Pantlanus odoratis. * The origin of these tripled-roofed monasteries will be readily understood by the following quotation from the Mahawanso, on the dedication by the Rajah Dutthaga nimni, of the Maha Thapo, in Ceylon, and which words manifest the deep signification of the umbrella as a symbol of Buddha.

He said : — Thrice over do I dedicate my kingdom to the Redeemer of the World, the Divine Teacher, the Bearer of the Triple Canopy — the canopy of the heavenly host, the canopy of mortals, and the canopy of eternal emancipation." Yule, in his Ava, seems to coincide with Burney as to the origin of the peculiar class of architecture one of the pagodas at Mengoon presents ; and the interpretation of the seven-roofed Miyoungs may be traced to the same source I have no doubt. Referring to the pagoda at Mengoon, Burney writes : — " Perhaps this structure is symbolical of the great conical mountain Myen-mo (Maha-mera), surrounded by its seven concentric and graduated ranges, in the centre of this sakwala or mundane system, which again is encompassed by a circular wall of rock, called the sakwala-gala — (see Hardy's Manual of Buddhism, chapter I.).

One of the Burmese feasts at the termination of their Wa, or lent, is called Tsee-me-my en-mo, or Myenmo lamp-lights. The streets are illuminated, and in them are exhibited high, round structures : to represent Mount Myen-mo covered with little figures of its spiritual inhabitants." simus, though this tree is met with occasionally the whole way up the river, the natives cultivating it for its fragrant flowers, with which the young women adorn their hair ; and also for its fruit, which is used for hackling thread. A Burman's love for flowers is remarkable : where circumstances admit, each house is fronted with a few roses, hibiscus, or a gorgeous creeper ; and few dwell ings will be found without their flower-pots filled with some favourite plant ; boatmen even delight in decorating their craft with these embellishments of nature, while the gentle sex do not consider their toilets complete unless a tastefully-arranged wreath of flowers entwines their hair ; and yet, perhaps, there is no country in which its gardens serve as a worse guide — chronologically, politically, or geographically — than those of Burma. 8.

The Rhizophora mangle is, of course, the staple shrub of the delta, where also varieties of J^r^lf!liZOph°ramangle tke. Acanthacece are observed. The fruit of Rhizophora mangle is edible, and attention might be turned with profit to the tanning properties of its bark. Nothing is more desired in England than a substitute for oak-bark; but the bark of this shrub could not be exported with profit, owing to its bulk, though extracts might be made in the country, and shipped with ease. It would be well worth a trial, as an extract of this tree is said to perform its office in half the time of oak-bark. The tannin would have to be made in an earthenware vessel, as iron communicates a principle which causes the leather to become brittle and discoloured. 9. We are now well out of tidal influence, and I was told would bid adieu to our candle-light Jisitation of insects by candlepests— but not SO ; for no SOOner do we make fast for the night, and the head-wind dies away, than we are tormented by small flies, of innumerable species, mosquitoes, and that most odious of insects, the flying bug,* all of which, attracted by the light, swarm round the lamps in such numbers as often to extinguish them, even at the peril of their own lives.

These little pests seem to find a pleasure in worrying all who are within the influence of the hght. The bugs insinuate themselves between one's skin and clothes, diffusing a most disagreeable scent, which is only intensified by any attempt to release them ; saucy crickets, too, swarm and spring up at one's face, whilst the mosquitoes maintain a constant guerilla warfare, trying no less to the patience than * The disagreeable scent at all times exhaled by the bug tribe (Oeo corisœ) is no doubt the insect's only means of defence and guard against extermination. to the nerves. None but those who have been assailed by these most insatiable of bloodsuckers can really understand the injury and discomfort they cause to man and beast. 10. Shortly after leaving Myanoung, the river becomes more defined in its course, and, even here Description of country from d there, the erosion of its high banks north of Myanoung to Prome. . . ' ;, . , S , is observable, though not, perhaps, to such an extent as marks the characteristic features of the Indus.

The surrounding landscape, as we steam onward, becomes more and more engaging — in a word, we are leaving the low, flat country of the delta, and entering the region of mountains and woodlands, with a foreground of richly-cultivated plains. The Arakan range, with its prettily-wooded slopes, here sends out an eccentric spur to the water's edge, whose face is decorated with carvings of a Bhuddhistic type, many of which are of very recent date. This forms the civil boundary of the Thayetmyo and Tharrawaddy Districts, and here the river becomes more tortuous in its course, and the current increases in strength. Proceeding onwards, the hills are sufficiently neared to distinguish the class of arborescent vegetation now fast falling before the ruthless hand of man, to make room for culture yielding a more speedy return. 11.

I was not a little surprised to hear from Mr. Hough, late Sub-Assistant Conservator of Forests, JTS* SSSftoSÆoS: a large proportion of these clearmgs had been effected withm the last three years ; and even still may be seen large areas covered with felled trees ready for burning — a process of agriculture familiarly known as toungya in Burma, and corresponding with the dyah of India. If clearing continues at the same ratio in this vicinity, we may expect to see, at no distant date, the whole of this range denuded of its timber. In this instance less harm is being done, perhaps, than generally results from this barbarous method of culture, for the trees felled are, as a rule, useless timber, and are replaced by fruit trees; nevertheless, in estimating the benefit of forests, it is necessary to consider the value of trees, both in dividually and collectively — that is, as furnishing the every-day necessaries of life, and influencing surrounding objects ; but the evil effect of robbing hill-sides and tops of their trees is too well known to be dilated on here.

This system of cultivation is, and I fear always will be, a bone of contention between the Revenue Officials and Forest Officers. The latter, alive to the interests of their own department, point to the calamities brought on other nations by similar wasteful and destructive practices which have been permitted to continue unchecked ; while the former support their views, which are opposed to the summary ejectment of these tribes by the undeniable argument that it is always necessary to sacrifice revenue to the suppression of crime. They very rightly point out that the principal tribes, who are dependent on this rude mode of culture, are a qudsi-barbarons lot, who shun the civilized world ; but that, though rude and ignorant, they are not destitute of spirit, and that to attempt summarily to deprive them of this their only mode of livelihood, would simply drive them to despair, and act as a stimulus to cattle-lifting and. other crime, if not to open rebellion; — while, if they fled the country, the last state of the forests would be worse than the first.

There is no doubt but the arguments advanced on both sides are sound, and deserving of consideration. The system, then, that suggests itself to me as one most likely to meet the requirements of both departments, is to teach these predatory tribes, by example, to appre ciate a higher class of agriculture. This is not, of course, the work of a day, or even a year, but it is to be accomplished by a little per severance and kindness ; and the first move towards working the reform will be to secure the services of these hill tribes, in considera tion of free grants of land and other privileges they are known to appreciate. This is the system I have often followed, and found to answer admirably well. 12. We have now reached a part of the Irrawaddy that requires no great stretch of imagination to recall orchards118 ™™ *** extensive to memory some of the more charming views on the Rhine — near the castle of Drachenfels ; — the orchards of carica, papaya, custard apples, and pomegranates, forming a substitute for the artistically grown vineyards that yield the well-known " Drachen-blut" or Dragon's-blood wine.

It is from here, we are told at page 9 of Yule's Ava, that the vegetation begins to lose its tropical character — a conclusion apparently arrived at by the sparse and stunted habits of its growth. I am not prepared, however, to endorse this opinion, but attribute the parched, unhealthy character of the trees to geological causes, rather than to climatic influence. Groves of palms may still be seen growing in luxuriant profusion, while the cocoanut also thrives. 13. Besidesthese were noted the following trees : — Shorearobusta, _ , . , Urtica fructibus, teak, tamarind, Ficus, Trees and grasses noted. -n-in-i-an ? i Bombax,Gardeniajlonbunda; and, among the more common species, Stravadium, Arostichum difforme, and Epiphytical orchiden; while by far the greater portion of the short turf grass, is formed of Andropogon acicularis, Cynodon Dactyton, and, in sandy places, Imperata cylindrica.

Where the soil is wetter, Ameletia Indica is abundant, giving a heath-like colour to the turf with its pale purple flowers. Wherever there is" standing water, its surface is reddened by the Azolla : Salvinia is also common. 14. At Shoaydoung Myomat, which is on the east bank of the river, eight miles below Prome, rocks Rocks first observed. were for g^ j^ noiiœA aboye water, and a few miles further north may be seen the teak planta tion of the Forest Department; but as there was no time for inspect ing it, I refrain from passing an opinion.* At a quarter to four p.m. on the 27th, we anchored abreast of Prome, having accom plished this portion of our voyage in 124 hours. 15. There is nothing sufficiently attractive in this town to engage the attention of voyagers, beyond, per- The town of Prome; its popuiahaps,its having a more civilized appear tion and manufactures reviewed. r 7 ., °. i-n , -t ance than any place hitherto passed.

To a resident, no doubt, the case is different, though we are not told so — the result of a press of work probably preventing officers devoting their time to anything beyond the usual daily routine of business. Running parallel with the river is a row of European houses, fronted by a strand nicely avenued with trees, valuable both as shelter and ornament. In the background is the town, studded with pagodas and other Buddhistic buildings, set in groves of palms and plantains, all of which combine to make a charming picture as viewed from the river. The population within the municipal town of Prome is 25,631, and in the district, 266,067, the increase within the last five years having been, respectively, 536 and 23,291. This of itself speaks for the growing prosperity of the district and the contentedness of the people.

Prome, I am told, is noted principally for silk-weaving ; but amongst its other manufactures are the following, which are arranged according to their relative importance : — 1st. — Gold-smiths. 2nd. — Silk-weavers. 3rd. — Carvers. 4th. — Workers in lacquer-ware. 5th. — Copper-smiths. ■ 6th. — Gilders. 7th. — Gold-leaf manufacturers. 16. There are 1,651 silk-weavers in the town of Prome, and 6,139 in the district. The raw silk, I believe, is chiefly obtained from the * Please, future excursionists, do not, however, note this plantation as one of the engaging sights on the river ; nor be too severe with the " critic's lash ;" for, remember, all things must have a beginning, and this plantation, I am told, ranks among the first of arboricultural experiments in Burma. Shoaylay, Myodoung, and Yuabein Circles of the Prome District : a small amount comparatively is obtained from the Kyoongone, Mahathaman, Poungday, and Padoung Districts, the latter place being on the west bank of the river.

There are no factories for the manufacture of raw silk in the town of Prome or its immediate vicinity ; but a large proportion of the silk goods exposed for sale in the bazaar are manufactured at Shoaydoung and Mandalay. The Shoay Sandaw Pagoda, which was so shaken by the earthquake of 1858 as to bring down the htee and portion of the superstructure, is, of course, one of the sights to be seen, while the nicely-designed market also repays the trouble of a visit. About midday is the time to see this latter place to advantage ; then the different stalls, generally kept by women, are tastefully arranged with gaudy Man chester piece-goods, and other foreign and indigenous tawdry, which sell at fabulous prices. The beau monde of the place are now to be seen promenading the arcade in crowds, dressed in their gayest attire, which rivals even the colours of the rainbow, and add materially to the gaiety of the scene. 17.