The Cruise of her Majesty's Ship 'Challenger.' Voyages over many seas, scenes in many lands ... With map and illustrations

Preface

. The important objects for which H.M.S. Challenger was placed at the disposal of a scientific staff under the direction of Professor Sir Charles Wyville Thomson, F.R.S., the gratifying results obtained by the full investigation of the bed of the ocean, and the vast amount of information gathered by visits to distant lands very rarely explored, render the cruise of the Challenger highly interesting and instructive to the British public. Under these circumstances, I have been induced by numerous friends to revise my daily journals, and publish in a concise and readable form a continuous narrative of this celebrated voyage. In this volume I shall not in any way interfere with the scientific results, beyond simply naming them in a cursory and general way, leaving to $ a

PREFACE.

. IV Professor Thomson the task of dealing with these subjects, and the application of the information obtained to the furtherance of physical knowledge. The description of places visited is given in the way that I have viewed them, and under the im pressions that filled my mind at the time ; but as the geographical aspects of foreign scenes must be similar by whomsoever observed, it, is scarcely possible to avoid occasionally using descriptions almost identical with those published on the subject by previous visitors. The chief interest connected with this narrative will be the vast extent traversed in the pursuit of knowledge, which admits of the combination in this volume of the general outline of the manners and customs of nations and tribes rarely visited, and descriptions of scenery under every condition of temperature, from the fiery Tropics to the ice-bound Antarctic regions : thus combining in the work a fund of information that has been brought together through special aid of the Government, granted to the Committee of the Royal Society, and now dedicated to the public use. I now respectfully present the narrative of the

PREFACE.

. V cruise of the Challenger to my readers, in the hope that, while affording information and instruction, it will prove of sufficient interest to reward its perusal with some pleasantly passed hours. WILLIAM J. J. SPEY. Devoni'ort, December 1876. CONTENTS. PAGE

Introduction

: . . 1

Chapter I

i ENGLAND TO LISBON AND GIBRALTAR. H.M.S. Uhallenijer commissioned at Sheerness — Objects of the voyage — Equipment and fittings — Leave Sheerness — The stormy passage — Arrive at Portsmouth — Commencement of the voyage — Leaving England — Weather in the Channel — Across the Bay of Biscay — First sounding and dredging — The results— Laud in sight — Enter the Tagus — Anchor off the city of Lisbon — Visit the shore — Sight-seeing — Church at Belem — Churches, gardens, and palaces — Early history of Portugal — Visit of King Luiz to the Challenger — Leave Lisbon — Dredging off Cape St. Vincent — First trial with the trawl — Veuus's flower-baskets — Description — Trawling near Gibraltar — Obtain specimens of the Umbellularia — Their description — Pass Cape Trafalgar— Rock of Gibraltar in sight — Arrive, and secure alongside the mole — Sights iu Gibraltar — Galleries through the rocks— Stalactite caves — Gibraltar as a military fortress — Ceremony of opening and closing the gates — The naval establishment — The town — Its churches— Garrison library — The Alameda — Neutral Ground — Campa and San Roque 7

Chapter II. Gibraltar To Madeira And Teneriffe

(CANARY ISLANDS). Leave Gibraltar — Daily soimding and trawling — Sight Porto Santo — Its discovery and early history — Arrive and anchor in Fimchal Bay, Madeira — Its early history — First impres- CONTENTS. VIII PAGE sions— The gardens, buildings, conveyances, dress — Leave Madeira — Pass the Desertas — Cape Anaga, Teneriffe, sighted — The Peak— Anchor off Santa Cruz— The buildings and streets — Scenery in the country — Ascent of the Peak — Cruising amongst the group — Sounding and dredging — Ball at the English Consulate — Naval incidents connected with Teneriffe 25

Chapter III. Teneriffe

(CANARY ISLANDS) TO ST. THOMAS (WEST INDIES). Leaving Teneriffe — Sight of the Peak — Commence section across the Atlantic — Daily soundings and trawlings — The results — Configuration of the bottom — In the Tropics — The officers of the ship — Life on board — Our daily doings — Description of the mode of sounding — The apparatus and appliances used — Taking serial temperatures— Dredging and trawling — Island of Sombrero in sight — Arrive and anchor at St. Thomas . . 36

Chapter IV. St

THOMAS (WEST INDIES) TO BERMUDA AND HALIFAX (NOVA SCOTIA), AND BACK TO BERMUDA. At St. Thomas — The town of Charlotte Amalia — Importance of the island— English vessel in distress — Tow her into port — Leave St. Thomas — The first death on board — Soundings — Burial at sea — Bermuda in sight — Sounding round the reefs — St. George's — The Narrows — Pretty scenery — Reach the anchorage in Grassy Bay — The naval yard — Historical sketch of the Bermudas — Geological and botanical researches — Leave Bermuda — Soundings — The Gulf Stream — Long Island to Nova Scotia — In Halifax Harbour — The city and its suburbs — Gold and coal mines — Halifax to Bermuda — In the Camber — The sand glacier — The caves 59

Chapter V. Bermuda To The Azores, Cape De Verde, St

PAUL'S ROCKS, FERNANDO NORONHA, BAHIA, TRISTAN D'ACUNHA, AND THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. Leave Bermuda— Sounding round the reefs — Commence another section across the Atlantic to the Azores — Anchor off Horta, CONTENTS. IX PAGE Fayal— Fayal to St. Michael's — The gardens — Foliage — Scenery— Lake of the Seven Cities — Public buildings and streets — Leave the Azores — Arrive at Madeira — Short stay there in consequence of epidemic — Section commenced across the Atlantic to the Coast of Africa — Palma, one of the Canary Islands, in sight — Sounding and dredging — Cape de Verde Islands in sight— Anchor off Porto Grande — Survey the anchorage — The town and adjacent scenery — Leave for Santiago — Anchor off Porto Praya — The town — Its natives — Dredging for pink coral — Proceed towards the African coast — Course altered for St. Paul's Rocks — The rocks in sight — Made fast by a hawser — Crossing the Line — The old customs — The southern constellations — Arrive at Fernando Noronha — Disappointment at not being able to land for collecting specimens — Sounding and dredging — Cape Antonio in sight — Anchor off Bahia — The city — Excursions in the country — Brazilian scenery — Foliage and vegetable products — Case of yellow fever — Leave Bahia — Section commenced to Cape of Good Hope — Island of Trinidad — Passage across the South Atlantic — The drift nets — Incidents of the voyage — Sea-birds — The soundings — Pick up the westerlies — Tristan d'Acunha in sight — The settlement of Edinburgh — Squally weather — Visit the Inaccessible Island — The Brothers Stoltenhoff : their story — Table Mountain, Cape of Good Hope, in sigh! — Anchor in Simon's Bay — Placed in quarantine .... 78

Chapter VI

simon's bay (cape of good hope) To marion and crozet islands, to kerguelen land and the heard islands, the antarctic regions, and to melbourne (australia). Simon's Town — Visit to Cape Town— Discovery of diamonds— From Simon's Bay to Table Bay, round the Cape of Storms — Anchor in Table Bay— The Challenger's ball— Return ball by the residents— Return to Simon's Bay— Leave the Cape— The Agulhas current— The "roaring forties "—Christmas Day 1873— Sight and land on Marion Island— Vast numbers of albatross and other sea-birds— Prince Edward's Island— Sight the Crozet Islands— Passage to Kerguelen Land— Arrival at and description of the island— Leave Christmas Harbour— The scenery— Anchor in Betsy Cove— From thence 'to Royal Sound— Three Island Bay— Greenland Harbour— Cascade CONTENTS. X FACE Reach— Hopeful Bay— Rhodes Harbour— The seal fisheries- Return to Christmas Harbour— Penguin rookeries— The Arch Rock— Leaving Kerguelen for the south— The Heard Islands —Description of the land— Leave the Heard Islands— The first Antarctic iceberg— In the icy regions— The icebergs and pack-ice— Birds— Cross the Antarctic Circle— Early explorers of these inhospitable regions— Wilkes' Termination Land— The Aurora Australis— An Antarctic gale— Enter the pack — No signs of land — Leave the pack — Dredging— A second gale— Shape our course for Australia — Trawling — The weather —The last iceberg— Passage to Australia — Land in sights — Arrive aud anchor in Hobson's Bay, Victoria 111

Chapter VII. Melbourne

(VICTORIA) TO SYDNEY (NEW SOUTH WALES) AND WELIXGTON (NEW ZEALAND). Melbourne— The city and suburbs — Visit to Ballarat— The city — Its gold mines — Melbourne to Sydney — First sight of Sydney Heads — Arrive at Sydney, New South Wales — Anchor in Farm Cove — Sydney Harbour — Picnic on Mount Victoria — Zigzag on the Great Western Railway — The Blue Mountains, and Valley of the Nepean — The city — Paramatta River — Rhodes — The dredging picnic — Entertainments during our stay — Early history of the colony — Leave Sydney — The stormy weather— Keturn and anchor in Watson's Bay — Sydney to New Zealand — Daily soundings — Rough weather — Anchor for shelter in Port Hardy and Queen Charlotte Sound — Man washed overboard and drowned— Sight Palliser Heads — Anchor off Wellington— Port Nicholson. 147

Chapter VIII. Wellington

(NEW ZEALAND) TO FRIENDLY AND FIJI ISLANDS, TO THE NEW HEBRIDES GROUP, AND TO SOMERSET, CAPE YORK (QUEENS- LAND, AUSTRALIA). At Wellington — Results of the soundings — Formation of the bottom — Description of the city— Australia and New Zealand — Leave Wellington — Squally weather — Sight the Kermadec Islands— Sounding and trawling — The Friendly Islands — Eoa — Tongatabu — Anchor off Nukalofa — Tonga — The village : its natives — Tapa : its manufacture — Captain Croker's attack on Bea, and the result — Foliage and scenery— Leave Tonga- CONTENTS. XI PAGE tabu— Passage to Fiji — Off Matuki — Anchor in Ngola Bay, Kandavu — Kandavu to Levuka— Anchor off Levuka— Return to Kandavu — Natives of the New Hebrides on board for passage to Api — Survey Ngola Bay — The scenery — Tattooing — Meke Meke— Leave Fiji for the New Hebrides — Off Api — The natives land — The landing, and what was seen — Sounding and dredging — On our way again— In the Coral Sea — Off the Louisiade Archipelago — Raine Island — The Barrier Reefs — Anchor off Bird Island — Arrive at Somerset, Cape York, Queensland 178

Chapter IX. Cape York

(AUSTRALIA) TO THE ARRU AND KII ISLANDS, TO BANDA, AMBOYNA, AND TERNATE (MOLUCCA ISLANDS). The settlement at Cape York — The aboriginal Australians — Foliage aud birds— Leave Somerset — Pass through Endeavour Straits — Off Hammond Island — Ceremonies relating to the dead — Australian graves — Off Booby Island — The post-office — Passage to the Arru Islands — Anchor off Dobbo — Visit of the Dutch officials — The settlement — Its natives — Forest scenery — Birds of paradise — Leave Dobbo— Passage to the Kii Islands — AnchGr off Kii Doulan — The forests — Beautiful birds and insects— Boat-building — The village and natives — Leave the Kii Islands — Pretty scenery— The Molucca Islands — Anchor off Banda — Gunong Api — Banda Neira — Nutmeg plantation — Animals and birds found — Banda to Amboyna — At Amboyna — The city — Get a supply of coal —Chinese burial-places — The harbour — Arrival of the mail steamer — Leave Amboyna — Cross the Equator (second time) — Pass the islands of Bachian and Tawali — Tidore and Ternate in sight — The charming scenery — Anchor off Ternate — The village — Club-house—Sultan's palace — Mohammedan mosque — Visit the spice plantations — Trees and fruits — Ball at Government House 202

Chapter X. Ternate

(MOLUCCA ISLANDS) TO SAMBOANGA, ILOILO, AND MANILLA (PHILIPPINE ISLANDS), AND TO HONG KONG (CHINA). Leave Ternate— Mindanao, Philippine Islands, in sight— Anchor off Samboanga— The village — Hospitality of the Spanish officials CONTENTS. XII PAGE — Dance of the Malagahi Indians — Leave Mindanao, and anchor off Panay— The town of Iloilo— Leave for Luzon— Anchor in Manilla Harbour— The city— Cigar factories, &c— Leave Manilla — Passage to Hong Kong, China — Arrive and anchor in Hong Kong Harbour — The city — Its residents, shops, theatres— Their temples and religion — Joss, the mystery — Captain Nares leaves for England to take the Arctic com mand — Loss to the expedition by his leaving— Arrival of the English mail 228

CHAPTER XL HONG KONG

(CHINA) TO MANILLA, ZEBU, CAMIGUIN, AND SAMBOANGA (PHILIPPINE ISLANDS), AND TO HUMBOLDT BAY (NEW GUINEA). Leave Hong Kong— Passage to Manilla— Sight a derelict — Tow her into Manilla — Scenery on the road and river — Leave Manilla — Passage through San Bernadino Straits — Numerous islands in sight — Arrive at Zebu — The town — Dredging for Euplectellas off the Island of Matan — Our success — Leave Zebu — Passage to Camiguin— The new volcano — Its effect on the surrounding country — Anchor off the village of Abajo — Proceed along the West Coast — Anchor off Samboanga — The scenery — Visit the Island of Basilan — Get a supply of coal — Leave the Philippine Islands — A course shaped for Greenwich Island — New route to and from Australia to China — Unfavourable weather — Sounding and dredging — Cross the Equator (third time) — Course altered for New Guinea — Land in sight — The scenery and prospects of exploration— Anchor in Humboldt Bay, New Guinea 216

Chapter XII. Humboldt Bay

(NEW GUINEA) TO NARES HARBOUR (ADMIRALTY ISLANDS), AND TO YOKOHAMA (JAPAN). In Humboldt Bay— Natives alongside — Impressive appearance of the savages— Attempted landing frustrated — Hostility of the natives— Their villages, canoes, &c. — Leave the coast of New Guinea — Admiralty Islands in sight— Anchor in Nares Harbour — Natives alongside— Bartering — Landing at Wild Island — The natives at home— Description of the islands- Survey of the group— -Leave the Admiralty Islands— Coursi CONTENTS. XIII PAGE shaped for the Ladrone Islands— Deepest sounding for the cruise— Unsuccessful in reaching either Ladrone or Caroline Islands— The Japan Islands in sight— Enter the Bay of Yedo —Beautiful scenes— Anchor off Yokohama 261

Chapter XIII. Japan

Yokohama— The cemetery— Walks in the environs— Visit Tokio (or Yedo), the eastern capital— Railway from Yokohama to Yedo— Jinirikisha— Sojourn at Shiba— The suburbs of Yedo — The streets and people—" Curio " shops— Lacquer-ware— Street scenes— The great temple of Asakusa— Japanese wrestlers — Leave Yokohama for Yokosuka — The Imperial Arsenal — Chalh nger in dock— Secluded temple near Yokosuka — Will Adams and wife's tomb— Visit Kainakura— The shrine of Daibutsu, the great god of Japan— The tea-houses — Leave for Yokohama — Yokohama to Kobe — The rough passage — Take shelter in Oosima — Arrive at Kobe — Anchor in Osaka Bay — Hiogo, Kobe, and Osaka— Railway to Osaka— Its people and streets— The great temple of Tonagee — Cruise in the inland sea — The fine and picturesque scenery — Return to Kobe — Passage to Yokohama— Dredging picnic in Yedo Bay — The results 27G

Chapter XIV. Japan To The Sandwich Islands

Leave Yokohama — Soundings of the U.S. ship Tusmrora — Our course — Passing the meridian of 180° — Two Sundays in one week — Sandwich Islands in sight — Anchor in Honolulu Harbour — The city — Its streets — Business habits — American influence — The King — Hawaiian Government — Parliament- Taxation — The Nuanu Valley — Pretty scenes— Villa and other residences — The Pali — Horsemanship — Visit to the fish-market — The natives— Public buildings — Parliament House — Hawaiian Hotel — The churches — Queen's Hospital— Court-house— Iolani Palace — Levee at the Palace — King Kalakua and suite visit the Challenger — Leave the Island of Oahu — Squally passage to Hawaii — Arrive and anchor in Hilo Bay — Volcanoes of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa — The charming scenery — The Rainbow Falls — Bathing-places — Visit to CONTENTS.

XIV I'AGF 301 the crater of Kilauea— Scenes on the road— The Halfway House — Reach the crater — The first sight of the great cauldron — The Volcano Hotel — Mauna Loa — Return to Hilo .

Chapter XV. Sandwich Islands To Society Islands

Leave Hawaii, Sandwich Islands — Passage to the Society Islands — Sounding and trawling — Cross the Equator (fourth time) — Death of Dr. von Willemoes-Suhm — Biographical sketch — Burial at sea — Tahiti in sight — Sounding and dredging outside the reefs — Anchor in Papeite Harbour — The town and country — Streets and natives — Challenger's band on shore — Queen Pomare and suite's visit to the Challenger — Afternoon dance — Ride to Point Venus — The Broom Road — Charming scenes — Natives met ou the road — Tamarind-tree at Point Venus — Waterfall— Hill fort of Fautana— Fruits and plants— Alongside Fare Ute — Coaling from the French depot — A day outside the reefs — Dredging — The company on board— Swing ship 326

Chapter XVI. Society Islands To Juan Fernandez And Valparaiso

(CHILI) Leave Tahiti — Parting scenes — Westerly winds— Sounding and trawling — Juan Fernandez in sight — Picturesque scenery — Robinson Crusoe — Anchor in Cumberland Bay — The tablet at Crusoe's look-out— The settlement, past and present — Leave Juan Fernandez — The run to Valparaiso — Arrival, and anchor off the city — The city and harbour — Swinging ship for magnetic corrections 336

Chapter XVII. Valparaiso, Through The Straits Of Magellan

Leave Valparaiso — Sight Juan Fernandez — Sounding and dredging — Strong head-winds — Fall in with the westerlies — Sight Cape Gallagos and Cape Tres Montes — Anchor in Port < »t way — The Entrance Islands— Last day of 1875 — Leave Port Otway — Passing through the Messier Channel — Anchor in Hale Cove — The scenery— Foliage — Leave Hale Cove — Con- CONTENTS.

XV PAO 316 tinuance of passage through the Messier Channel — Stop and trawl off Middle Island — The pretty scenery — Anchor in Gray Harbour— The excursions — Grass and trees on fire — The grand effect at night — Leave Gray Harbour — Messier Channel and Indian Reach— The English Narrows — Mid-Channel Island— The fine scenery — Dredging off Saumaurez Island — Anchor in Port Grappler — The derelict Earnack— Weather during our stay — Leave Port Grappler — Pass through Wide Channel — Dredging, &c. — Anchor in Tom Bay — The excursionists — Squally weather— Drag our anchors — Leave Tom Bay — Conception Channel — Proposed survey in the Trinidad Channel frustrated through the weather — Pass through the Conception Channel — Soundings, &c, in the Innocent Channel — The fine scenery — Anchor in Puerto Bueno Bay — Pretty scenes — The weather — Leaving Puerto Bueno Bay — The scenery and weather in passing through Sarmiento Channel— Sounding and dredging — The Zach Peninsula — Anchor in Isthmus Bay — Leave Isthmus Bay — Passing through Mayne Channel and Smyth's Channel — The fine scenery — Enter the Straits of Magellan — Cape Pillar in sight — Enter the picturesque port of Churruca — The Glaciers — Leave Port Churruca — Pass through Crooked and English Reaches — Off Fortescue Bay — The Fuegians — Off Capo Fro ward — Anchor in Port Famine — The old Spanish settlement in 1581 — The Chilian settlement of 1843— Leave Port Famine and arrive at Sandy Point— The Chilian settlement- Coal mines and gold workings — Leave Sandy Point and reach the anchorage off Elizabeth Island — Exploring parties — Finding fossil bones — Leave Elizabeth Island — Passing through the Second and First Narrows— Off Gregory Bay — Pass the Meridian of Cape Horn — Again in the Atlantic — Pass Cape Virgin —Sounding and trawling

Chapter XVIII. Cape Virgin To Falkland Islands And Monte Video

Our first haul in the Atlantic— The Jason Islands — Eddystono Rock - Cape Pembroke, Falkland Islands, in sight — Enter Port William— Anchor off Stanley — The settlement— Climate — Death of an able seaman by drowning — Leave for Port Louis — Anchor in Berkley Bay— Funeral of our late shipmate- Return to Stanley — The stream of stones— Leaving the CONTENTS. PAGE Falklands — Stormy weather — Sounding and trawling — Sight the land — Off Lobos Island— Pass Maldanado Point — Steam ing up the Rio de la Plata — Anchor off Monte Video — The city and suburbs 364

Chapter XIX. Monte Video To Ascension And The Cape De Verde Islands

Leave Monte Video — Swinging ship — Sounding and dredging in the River La Plata— A Pampara off the coast— Enter the cold current — Its course — Completion of the voyage round the world — What has been accomplished— Course shaped for Ascension — South-east trades — Arrive at Ascension — The garrison — George Town — Scenery — The Green Mountain — Ascension turtle — Leave Ascension — Sounding — Cross the Equator for the sixth time — The oppressive region of equatorial calms — Steaming through the Tropics — Sight the Cape de Verde Islands- -Arrive at Santiago — Anchor off Porto Praya — Leave for St. Vincent — Anchor in Porto Grande — Strong trade-winds 372 CHAPTER NX. HOMEWARD BOUND. Leave St. Vincent— Head-winds and disagreeable weather — Sight the coast of Spain — Anchor in Vigo Bay — The city— Channel fleet — Leave for England — Off Cape Finisterre — Favourable run across the Bay of Biscay — The English Channel— The coast of England — Anchor at Spithead (Portsmouth) — Arrive at Sheerness— Retrospect — Pay off at Chatham— Parting — At home— The end 381

Appendix

ILLUSTRATIONS. PACE The King of Portugal on Board the Challenger Frontispiece Captain George S. Nares, R.N., F.R.S Title-page The City of Lisbon, from the Tagus 7 Chemical Laboratory on Board the Challenger . . 9 Naturalists' Work-room on Board the Challenger . . 10 Sounding and Dredging Apparatus 12 Plaza Constitucion, Santa Cruz, Teneriffe .... 25 Sounding Accumulator 43 "Hydra" Sounding Machine 44 "Bailey" Sounding Machine 45 Valve Sounding Lead 46 Slip Water Bottle 47 " Buchanan's " Deep-sea Water Bottle 49 " Miller-Casella " Deep-sea Thermometer .... 50 Cup-lead 53 Deep-sea Dredge 54 Dredging Accumulator 55 Camber and Floating Dock, Bermuda 59 View of St. Thomas, West Indies . . . . To/ace 60 Oceanic Sections (St. Thomas to Bermuda — Bermuda \ to New York — Halifax to Bermuda) . j J Natives of Santiago, Cape de Verde Islands ... 78 St. Paul's Rocks, North Atlantic 85 St. Paul's Rocks, from the East ....

To face 86 Peak of Fernando Noronha, South Atlantic . . „ 88 View of Tristan d'Acunha 110 Table Mountain, Cape of Good Hope Ill b ILLUSTRATIONS. XVIII l'AM Christmas Harbour, Kerguelen Land . . . To/act 121 The Challenger amongst the Ice in the Antarctic | , ,,. Regions [ ' Dredging on the Paramatta River, Sydney .... 147 Sydney, from Pyrmont, Darling Harbour . . To face 160 Natives of Tongatabu, Friendly Islands .... 178 Street Architecture, Dobbo, Arru Islands .... 202 Natives of the Philippine Islands 228 Indian Village on the Banks of the River Pasig, | Manilla f' ~il' The Landing-place on Wild Island (Admiralty | Islands) { ' Village in Humboldt Bay, New Guinea . . . To face 262 Village in Wild Island, Nares Harbour, Admiralty i _ . Islands I 2bJ Ornaments of Dress, and Weapons, used by the j Natives of New Guinea and the Admiralty > „ 271 Islands.

Tomb of Will Adams and his Wife, near Yoko- | 07„ suka, Japan ( ' Women on Horseback, Honolulu, Sandwich Islands . . 304 Native Bamboo House, Tahiti, Society Islands . . . 326 Tamarind Tree at Point Venus, Tahiti, Society ) __, , „_.. Islands \r°Sace 33S Customs Guard House, Valparaiso, Chili . ... 336 The Challenger in Cumberland Bay, Juan Fer- ,_, „ „„„ > To face 339 nandez I Mountains and Glaciers in Magellan Straits . 346 Cape Froward, Straits of Magellan 364 The City of Monte Video, looking towards the | Harbour | '

INTRODUCTION.

. Not many years ago, in fact within the memory of the present generation, our knowledge of anything below the ocean's surface was extremely indefinite and obscure. It was even asserted that the specific gravity of the water at considerable depths would be so great that any heavy weight thrown into the sea must be arrested, and remain suspended for ever. It was argued that no animal life could possibly exist in the great depths of the ocean ; and only some fifteen years ago doubts were entertained whether some star fish brought up by a line from 1200 fathoms had not attached themselves to the line on its downward or upward course, and the very nature and habits of the animal were so modified as to suit this view. There can be no doubt that the invention of ocean telegraphy first stimulated the great desire as well as the necessity for a knowledge of the contour of the bed of the ocean.

To insure success it was essential to know the configuration and the soundings of B the sea, the shape and character of its bed, the nature of the creatures and plants that haunt its depths, the force and set of its currents, the figure and dimensions of the great ocean basins, and the temperature of the water at various depths. Interesting as were the results of the various early sounding expeditions, it was not until 1868 that any thing like a systematic examination of the ocean's bed was undertaken in connection with natural history and physical geography. In that year the Royal Society succeeded in getting H.M.S. Lightning placed at their disposal for some six weeks ; and though for so brief a period, the results were such as to give great encouragement for further investiga tion. Although no great depth of water was obtained in sounding, dredging was effected in 650 fathoms, a greater depth than had hitherto been attempted.

The next year (1869) the Council of the Royal Society were successful in securing H.M.S. Porcupine, which was fitted out for a more extended exploration of the deep sea ; and the experience of the pre vious year was brought to bear on the improvement of the means for the purpose in view. The first cruise was between the latitudes of Cape Clear and Gralway, on the west coast of Ireland, where a series of soundings and dredgings were effected in L500 fathoms (more than double that of the previous year), and many creatures of great interest obtained. The second part of this cruise extended to the

INTRODUCTION.

. 3 south and west coast of Ireland, where a depth of 2400 fathoms was reached with successful results ; and the third part extended over some portion of the survey of the previous year (between the coast of Scotland and the Faroe Islands). On the termination of this voyage (taking into account the time occupied and the extent of the investigations), the cruise of the Porcupine was considered to have clone more to advance our knowledge of the physical condition of the ocean than had been achieved by any former expedition that ever left our shores. In 1870 the Porcupine was again engaged in the service of the Council of the Royal Society, and pro ceeded at first in a south-westerly direction towards the farthest point to which the survey extended the year before, and afterwards to the coast of Portugal, and to Gibraltar, where a vast quantity of interesting and important data was obtained.

In addition to the sounding and dredging, thermometric observa tions were constantly taken, proving even more successful than those obtained during the previous voyages. The results showed unsuspected variations in the deep-sea temperature, the existence of a general oceanic circulation, and the presence of life at the greatest depths. The scientific and practical importance of the facts revealed by these short and imperfect inquiries was such as to render their con tinuance a matter of national concern : so much so that the Council of the Royal Society brought before b the Government a project for extended investigation, which was eventually approved of, and a committee appointed to prepare the plans of operation. It was suggested that a vessel should be fitted out for a three or four years' cruise, during which time sounding, dredging, thermometric observation, and chemical examination of sea-water should be carried on continuously, with a view to a more perfect knowledge of the physical and biological conditions of the great ocean basins, of the direction and velocity of the great drifts and currents, of the faunæ of the deep water, and of the zoology and botany of those portions of the globe which are at present comparatively unknown.

H.M.S. Challenger, a spar-decked corvette of 2000 tons displacement and 400 horse-power, was se lected to carry out these recommendations ; and the necessary alterations to fit her for the service on which she was to be employed were made in the dockyard at Sheerness. With the exception of two 64-pounders, all the guns on the main deck were removed, so as to obtain the required accommodation. In addition to cabins for the Captain, Commander, and Director of the Scientific Staff, there were spacious compartments for surveying operations and analysing purposes, a laboratory for the chemist, and a studio for the photographer, all fitted with every appliance which skill and science could suggest. On the upper deck stood an 18-horsc double-cylinder

INTRODUCTION.

. 5 engine, with shafting and drums for heaving in the dredging and sounding-lines, extending entirely across the ship ; and on the after-part of the deck, be sides the usual standard and other compasses, was the Fox dipping-circle, with which it was intended to make an extensive daily series of magnetic observations. From the Hydrographic Department at the Ad miralty a code of instructions was issued, regulating the daily routine to be carried out whenever the weather and other circumstances permitted. The Challenger, after visiting Lisbon, Gibraltar, and Madeira, was to proceed across the Atlantic, through the trade-wind region, to the Virgin Islands ; thence to Bermuda, onward to the coast of North America ; and eastward again to the Azores, and thence to the Canaries, Cape de Verde, and to the equatorial regions — which were to be thoroughly investigated — westward to St. Paul's Rocks, Fernando de No ronha, and to the coast of Brazil.