Discoveries in Australia; with an account of the coasts and rivers explored and surveyed during the voyage of H.M.S. Beagle, in the years 1837-43. ... Also a narrative of Capt. Owen Stanley's visits to the Islands in the Arafūra Sea

Front matter

DISCOVERIES IN AUSTRALIA; WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE COASTS AND RIVERS EXPLORED AND SURVEYED DURING THE VOYAGE OF H. M.S. BEAGLE, In the Yeaes 1837-38-39-40-41-42-43. B .* COMMAND OF THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY ALSO A NARRATIVE OF CAPTAIN OWEN STANLEY'S VISITS TO THE ISLANDS IN THE ARAFURA SEA. His J. LORT STOKES, COMMANDER, R. N. VOL. I. LONDON: T. AND W. BOONE, 29, NEW BOND STREET. 1846. TO CAPTAIN ROBERT FITZ-ROY, R.N. THE FOLLOWING WORK IS DEDICATED AS A TRIBUTE TO HIS DISTINGUISHED MERIT, AND AS A TOKEN OF HEARTFELT GRATITUDE AND RESPECT, BY HIS OLD SHIPMATE AND FAITHFUL FRIEND, THE AUTHOR.

Introduction

. I cannot allow these volumes to go before the public, without expressing my thanks to the following gentlemen for assistance, afforded to me in the course of the composition of this work : — To Captain Beaufort, R.N., F.R.S., Hydrographer to the Admiralty, for his kindness in furnishing me with some of the accompanying charts ; to Sir John Richardson, F.R.S ; J. E. Gray, Esq., F.R.S. ; E. Doubleday, Esq., F.L.S.,andA. White, Esq.,M.E.S., for their valuable contributions on Natural Historv, ml ' to be found in the Appendix ; to J. Gould, Esq., F.R.S., for a list of birds collected during the voyage of the Beagle ; to Lieutenants Gore and Fitzmaurice, for many of the sketches which illustrate the work ; and to B. Bynoe, Esq., F.R.C.S., for several inter esting papers which will be found dispersed in the following pages.

Captain Owen Stanley, R.N., F.R.S., also merits my warmest thanks, for the important addition to the work of his visits to the Islands in the Arafura Sea. I have to explain, that when the name " Austral asia" is used in the following pages, it is intended VI

INTRODUCTION.

. to include Tasmania (Van Diemen's Land), and all the islands in the vicinity of the Australian con tinent. All bearings and courses, unless it is specified to the contrary, are magnetic, according to the varia tion during the period of the Beagle's voyage. The longitudes are generally given from meri dians in Australia, as I much question whether any portion of the continent is accurately determined with reference to Greenwich. Sydney, Port Essington, and Swan River, have been the meri dians selected ; and the respective positions of those places, within a minute of the truth, I consider to be as follows : — Swan River (Scott's Jetty, Fremantle) 1 15° 47' E. Port Essington (Government house) . 132° 13' E. Sydney (Fort Macquarie) .... 151° 16' E. CONTENTS OF VOL. I.

Chapter I. Introduction

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PAGE Objects of the Voyage — The Beagle commissioned — Her former career — Her first Commander — Instructions from the Admiralty and the Hydrngrapher — Officers and Crew — -Arrival at Plymouth — Embark Lieuts. Grey and Lushington's Exploring Party — Clironometric Departure — Farewell glance at Plymouth — Death of King William the Fourth . . . . 1

Chapter II. Plymouth To Bahia

Sail from Plymouth — The Eight Stones — Peakof Tcneri*e — Approach to Santa Cruz — " La Cueva de Los Guanches" — Trade with Mogadore — Intercourse between Mogadore and Mombas — Reason to regret Mombas having been given up— Sail from Tenerife — Search for rocks near the equator — Arrival at San Salvador — Appearance of Bahia — State of the Country — Slave Trade — And results of Slavery — Extension of the Slave Trade on the eastern coast, of Africa — Moral condition of the Negroes — Middy's Grave — Departure from Bahia— Mr. "Very Well Dice'' 31

Chapter III. From The Cape To Swan River

A gale — Anchor in Simon's Bay — H. M.S. Thalia — Captain Harris, and his Adventures in Southern Africa — Proceedings of the Land Party — Leave Simon's Bay — An overloaded ship — Heavy weather and wet decks — Island of Amsterdam— Its true longitude — St. Paul's — Water — Westerly variation — Rottenest Island — Gage's Road — Swan River Settlement — Freemantle — An inland lake — Plans for the future — Illness of Captain Wickham— Tidal Phenomena — Perth — Approach to it — Narrow escape of the first settlers — The Darling Range — Abundant Harvest — Singular flight of strange birds — Curious Cliff near Swan River — Bald Head — Mr. Darwin's Theory — The Natives— Miago— Anecdotes of Natives — Their Superstitions — Barbarous traditions, their uses and their lessons . 4:3 CONTENTS. VIII

Chapter IV. From Swan River To Roebuck Bay

PAGE Sail from Gage's Road — Search for a bank — Currents and soundings — Houtmans Abrolhos — Fruitless search for Ritchie's Reef— Indications of a squall — Deep sea soundings — Atmospheric Temperature — Fish— A squall— Anchor off the mouth of Roebuck Bay— A heavy squall— Driven from our anchorage— Cape Villaret — Anchor in Roebuck Bay — Excursion on shore — Visit from the Natives — Mr. Bynoe's account of them — A stranger among them — Captain Grey's account of an " almost white" race in Australia — Birds, Snakes, and Turtle — Move the Ship — Miago, and the " Black Fellows" — The wicked men of the North — Clouds of Magellan — Face of the Country — Natives — Heat and Sickness — Miago on shore — Mr. Usborne wounded — Failure in Roebuck Bay — Native notions . . 64

Chapter V. From Roebuck Bay To Skeleton Point

Departure from Roebuck Bay — Appearance of the Country — Progress to the northward — Hills and Cliffs — French Names and French Navigators — Tasman, and his account of the Natives — "Hazejgaeys and Assagais" — His Authenticity as an Historian — Description of the Natives — Marks and mutilations — Phrenological Development — Moral condition — Proas, Canoes, and Rafts — Another squall — Anchor in Beagle Bay — Face of the Country — Palm Trees — Dew — Hauling the Seine — A meeting with Natives — Eastern Salutation — Miago's conduct towards, and opinion of, his countrymen — Mutilation of the Hand — Native " smokes" seen — Move further to the N.E. — Point Emeriau — Cape Leveque — Point Swan — Tide races — Search for water — Encountered by Natives — Return to the Ship — The attempt renewed — Conduct of the Natives — Effect of a Congreve Rocket after dark — A successful haul — More Natives — Miago's Heroism— The plague of Flies — Dampier's description of it — Native Habitations — Under weigh — Wind and weather — Tidal Phenomenon — Natural History — Singular Kangaroo — Bustard — Cinnamon Kangaroo — Quails — Guanas and Lizards — Ant Hills — Fishing over the side — A day in the Bush — A flood of fire — Soil and Productions — White Ibis — Curious Tree — Rain water — Geology of the Cliffs— Weigh, and graze a Rock, or "Touch and go" — The Twins— Sunday Strait — Roe's Group — Miago and his friends — A black dog — A day of rest— Native raft— Captain King and the Bathurst — A gale — Point Cunningham— Successful search for water— Native estimation of this fluid— Discovery of a Skeleton— And its removal- The grey Ibis- Our parting legacy hi CONTENTS. IX

Chapter VI. Point Cunningham To Fitz-roy River

PAGE Survey the Coast to Point Cunningham— Move the Ship— Musquitoes —Southern View of King's Sound— Singular vitreous Formation- Move to the south of Point Cunningham— Captain King's limit- Termination of Cliffy Range— Disaster Bay— An Exploring Party leave in the boats— The shore— A fresh water lake— Valentine Island— Native Fire and Food— A heavy squall— The wild Oat- Indications of a River — Point Torment— Gouty-stem Tree and Fruit —Limits of its growth— Another squall— Water nearly fresh alongside—The Fitz-Roy River — Tide Bore aud dangeious position of the Yawl— Ascent of the Fitz-Roy— Appearance of the adjacent land- Return on foot — Perilous situation aud providential escape — Survey the western jshore— Return to the Ship— Sporting, Quail and Emus — Natives— Ship moved to Point Torment . . .118

Chapter VII. The Fitz-roy River To Port George The Fourth, And Return

TO SWAN RIVER. Examination of the Fitz-Roy River — Excursion into the interior — Alarm of the Natives — Ascent of the River— Sufferings from Mus quitoes—Red Sandstone — Natives again surprised — Appearance of the Country— Impediments in the River — Return of the boats — An Alligator— Stokes' Bay — Narrow escape of an Officer — Change of Landscape — Pheasant-Cuckoos — A new Vine — Compass Hill — Port Usborne — Explore the eastern shore of King's Sound — Cone Bay — Native Fires — Whirlpool Channel — Group of Islands — Sterile aspect of the Coast— Visited by a Native — Bathurst Island — Native Hut and Raft — Return to Port Usborne— Native Spears — Cascade Bay — Result of Explorations in King's Sound — Interview with Natives — Coral Reefs — Discover Beagle Bank — Arrival at Port George the Fourth — Examination of Collier Bay in the boats — Brecknock Harbour — The Slate Islands — Fresh Water Cove — An Eagle shot — Its singular nest — Rock Kangaroos — A Conflagration — Sandstone Ridges — Doubtful Bay — Mouth of the Glenelg — Remarkable Tree — Fertile Country near Brecknock Harbour — Return to the Ship — Meet with Lieut. Grey — His sufferings and discoveries — Visit the Encampment — Timor Ponies —Embarkation of Lieut. Grey's Party — Sail from Fort George the Fourth — Remarks on position of Tryal Rock — Anecdotes of Miago — Arrival at Swan River — Directions for entering Owen's Anchorage . . X CONTENTS.

Chapter VIII. Swan River' To Sydney

PAGE Miago's reception by his countrymen— Whale Fishery— Strange ideas entertained by Natives respecting the first Settlers— Neglected state of the Colony— Test security of Owen's Anchorage— Weather— Celebration of the Anniversary of the Colony— Friendly meeting between different Tribes— Native beggars— Personal vanity of a Native— Visit York — Description of Country — Site of York — Scenery in its neighbourhood— Disappointment experienced— Sail from Swan River— Hospitality of Colonists during our stay— Aurora Australis— Gale off Cape Leeuwen— Stormy passage— Ship on a lee shore — South-west Cape of Tasmania— Bruny Island Lighthouse — Arrive at Hobarton— Mount Wellington— Kangaroo Hunt— White Kangaroo — Civility from the Governor — Travertine Limestone — Leave Hobarton — Singular Current— Appearance of Land in the neighbourhood of Sydney — Position of Lighthouse — Entrance and first view of Port Jackson — Scenery on passing up the Harbour- Meet the Expedition bound to Port Essington— Apparent increase of Sydney — Cause of Decline — Expedition sails for Port Essington — Illawarra— Botany Bay — La Perouse 's Monument — Aborigines — Meet Captain King— Appearance of Land near Sydney . . 226

Chapter IX. Bass Strait

Leave Sydney — Enter Bass Strait — Island at Eastern entrance — Wilson's Promontory — Cape Shanck — Enter Port Phillip — Tide Race — Commence Surveying Operations — First Settlement — Escaped Convict — His residence with the Natives — Sail for Kiug Island — Examine Coast to Cape Otway — King Island — Meet Sealers on New Year Islands — Franklin Road — Solitary Residence of Captain Smith — Soil — Advantageous position for a Penal Settlement — Leafless appearance of Trees — Examine West Coast — Fitzmaurice Bay — Stokes' Point — Seal Bay — Geological Formation — Examine Coast to Sea Elephant Rock — Brig Rock — Cross the Strait to Hunter Island— Strong Tide near Reid's Rocks — Three Hummock Island — Rats — The Black Pyramid — Point Woolnorth— Raised Beach — Coast to Circular Head — Head -quarters of the Agricultural Company Capture of a Native — Mouth of the Tamar River — Return to Port Phillip — West Channel — Yarra-yarra River — Melbourne — Custom of Natives — Manna — Visit Geelong — Station Peak — Aboriginal Names — South Channel — Examine Western Port — Adventure with a Snake — Black Swans — Cape Patterson — Deep Soundings — Revisit King and Hunter Islands — Fire — Circular Head — Gales of Wind — Reid's Rocks — Sea Elephant Rock— Wild Dogs— Navarin and Harbinger Reefs — Arrive at Port Phillip — Sail for Sydney — Pigeon House— Drought— Mr. Usborne leaves 20(1 CONTENTS. XI

Chapter X. Sydney To Port Essington

PAGE Leave Sydney— Gale and Current— Port Stephen— Tahlee— River Karuah— Stroud— Wild Cattle— Incivility of a Settler — River Allyn — Mr. Boydell— Cultivation of Tobacco — A clearing Lease — William River — Crossing the Karuah at Night— Sail from Port Stephen — Breaksea Spit — Discover a Bank — Cape Capricorn — Northumberland Isles — Sandal Wood— Cape Dpstart — Discover a River — Raised Beach — Section of Barrier Reef — Natives— Plants and Animals — Magnetical Island — Halifax Bay — Height of Cordillera — FitzRoy Island — Hope Island— Verifying Captain King's Original Chart— Cape Bedford— New Geological Feature — Lizard Island — Captain Cook — Barrier and Reefs within — Howick Group — Noble Island— Cape Melville— Reef near Cape Flinders — Princess Charlotte's Bay— Section of a detached Reef — Tide at Claremont Isles — Restoration Island — Islands fronting Cape Grenville — Boydan Island — Correct Chart — Tides— Cairncross Island — Escape River — Correct position of Reefs — Y7ork Isles — Tides — Torres Strait — Endeavour Strait — Booby Island— Remarks on Barrier and its contiguous Islands and Reefs — Cape Croker and reef off it — Discover error in longitude of Cape — Reefs at the mouth of Port Essingten — Arrive at the latter . . . . . 31 1

Chapter XI

Port Essington — Bearings from 6hoals in the Harbour — Appearance of the Settlement — Meet Captain Stanley — Church — Point Record — Prospects of the Settlement — Buffaloes escap — Fence across neck of Peninsula — Lieut. P. B. Stewart explores the Country — Natives — Uses of Sand — Tumuli-building Birds — Beautiful Opossum — Wild Bees — Escape from an Alligator — Result of Astronomical Observations — Geological Formation — Raffles Bay — Leave Port Essington — Popham Bay — Detect error in position of Port Essington — Melville Island— Discover a Reef in Clarence Strait — Cape Hotham — Native Huts and Clothing— Geological Formation — ■ Discover the Adelaide River— Interview with Natives— Attempt to come on board — Messrs. Fitzmaurice and Keys nearly speared — Exploration of the Adelaide — Its capabilities— Wood Ducks — Vampires Another party ascends the Adelaide— Meet Natives — Canoes Alligator — Visit Melville Island — Green Ants — Thoughts of taking ship up Adelaide abandoned — Tides in Dundas Strait— Return to Port Essington— Theatricals— II. M. S. Pelorus arrives with Provisions — Further remarks on the Colony . . .381 CONTENTS.

Chapter XII. Page

Leave Port Essington — Reach Timor Laut — Meet Proas— Chief Lomba — Traces of the Crew of the Charles Eaton — Their account of the wreck and sojourn on the Island — Captain King's account of the Rescue of the Survivors — Boy Ireland's relation of the sufferings and massacre of the Crew — Appearance of the shores of Timor Laut — Description of the Inhabitants — Dress — Leprosy — Canoe9 — Village of Oliliet — Curious Houses — Remarkable Ornaments — Visit the Oran Kaya — Burial Islet — Supplies obtained — Gunpowder in request as Barter — Proceed to the Arru Islands — Dobbo Harbour — Trade- Present to Chief — Birds of Paradise — Chinaming Junks' bottoms — Character of Natives — Some of them profess Christianity — Visit the Ki Islands — Village of Ki Illi— How protected — Place of Worship — Pottery — Timber — Boat-building — Cultivation of the eastern Ki — No anchorage off it — Visit Ki Doulan — Antique Appearance of — Luxuriant Vegetation — Employment of Natives — Defences of the place — Carvings on gateway — Civility of Chief— His Dress— Population of the Ki Group — Their Religion — Trade — Place of Interment — Agility of Australian Native — Supplies — Anchorage off Ki Doulan — Island of Vordate — Visit from Chief — Excitement of Natives — Their Arms and Ornaments — Carved Horns on Houses — Alarm of the Oran Kaya— Punishment of the Natives of Laarat by the Dutch — Revisit Oliliet — Discover that Mr. Watson had rescued the European Boy — Return to Port Essington — Mr. Watson's Proceedings at Timor Laut . .... 438

Appendix

. List of Birds, collected by the Officers of H. M. S. Beagle . . 479 Descriptions of Six Fish. By Sir John Richardson. M.D., F.R.S. &c. 484 Descriptions of some New Australian Reptiles. By J. E. Gray, Esq. F.R.S. &c. .... 498 Descriptions of new or unfigured Species of Coleoptera from Australia. By Adam White, Esq. M.E.S. . . . gQ5 Descriptions of some new or imperfectly characterized Lepidoptera from Australia. By E. Doubleday, Esq. F.L.S. . . LIST OF CHARTS. VOL. I. General Chart of Australia. Bass Strait. Arafuka Sea. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. VOL. I. Natives of Western Australia . . frontispiece. South branch of the Albert . . . facing page 1 Native habitation . . . . • 101 Singular tail of Kangaroo .... 103 Rocks on Roe's Group .... 109 Native raft . . . . . .112 Kileys of King Sound and Swan River . . . 117 Substantial native hut . . . . .172 Spears of King Sound and Swan River . . . 177 Monument of La Perouse .... 249 Circular Head ...... 274 Reid's Rocks and the Black Pyramid . . . 298 Section of the N.E. Coast of Australia, and Great Barrier Reef 333 Magnetical Island .... facing p. 338 Mount Hinchinbroke .... 339 Section of a detached Coral Reef .... 353 Rush shoulder-covering of natives . . • 406 Victoria, from the Anchorage .... 436 Native Town of Oliliet . . . facing p. 458 FISHES.

Balistes phaleratus . • • Plate 1 484 Cristiceps axillaris . ■ ■ . " 1 486 Scorpæna Stokesii . . • • 2 487 Smaris porosus . • • • "-* 4*-*9 Chelmon margiDalis ... 4 491 Assiculus punctatus . . ■ ■ 2 494 REPTILES. Silubosaurus Stokesii • • • Plate 1 498 Egernia Cunninghami . • • . " 2 499 Hydrus Stokesii . • • • " 3 502 Gonionotus plumbeus * 503 INSECTS. Platb 1 . • • • 505 "2 . ■ • • • 509 " 3 . . . . . ERRATA. Vol. I. Page 298, 1. 15, /or" outline" read il outer line.'' Page 313, 1. 28, for " sprung1' read "spring." Page 426, 1. 28, for " a guide from" read <c a guide for." Page 459, for " Oran Kega" read " Oran Kaya.'* A'OL. II. Page 5, 1. 28, for u cross to" read ll cross to the." Page 46, I. 15,_/or " shore" read "banks." Page 62, 1. 5, for " of the way" read " across tlie way.'' Page 68, 1. 2,far " and had" read (< and we had."

Page 125, 1. 28, for " definable1' read ll definite." Page 204, 1. 25 for " the winds" read " these winds." Page 327, 1. 6, j or "lower'' read " lowest." Page 362, note, I. 5, for " sixty" read " six." Page 375, 1. \2,for " breakers" read " beaches " Page 404, I. 7, for " north-eastern'' read " south-eastern Page 422, 1. 23, for " easterly" read " westerly." fe/j AiTowsmhh.,10 Sohc Squ, S&uMy fs£a>ncAs M^z-v JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY.

Chapter I. Introduction

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OBJECTS OF THE VOYAGE — THE BEAGLE COMMISSIONED HER FORMER CAREER HER FIRST COMMANDER — INSTRUC- TIONS FROM THE ADMIRALTY AND THE HYDROGRAPHER OFFICERS AND CREW — ARRIVAL AT PLYMOUTH — EMBARK LIF.UTS. GREY AND LUSHINGTON's EXPLORING PARTY CHRONOMETRIC DEPARTURE FAREWELL GLANCE AT PLY- MOUTH — DEATH OF KING WILLIAM THE FOURTH. For more than half a century, the connection be tween Great Britain and her Australian possessions has been one of growing interest ; and men of the highest eminence have foreseen and foretold the ultimate importance of that vast continent, o'er which, within the memory of living man, the roving savage held precarious though unquestioned empire. Of the Australian shores, the North-western was the least known, and became, towards the close of the year 1836, a subject of much geographical spe- VOL. i. b H. M. SLOOP 'BEAGLE.' 2 culation.

Former navigators were almost unani mous in believing that the deep bays known to indent a large portion of this coast, received the waters of extensive rivers, the discovery of which would not only open a route to the interior, but afford facilities for colonizing a part of Australia, so near our East Indian territories, as to render its occupation an object of evident importance. His Majesty's Government therefore determined to send out an expedition to explore and survey such portions of the Australian coasts, as were wholly or in part unknown to Captains Flinders and King. For this service H. M. Sloop, ' Beagle,' was commissioned at Woolwich, in the second week of February, 1837, by Commander Wickham, who had already twice accompanied her in her wanderings over the least known and most boisterous waters of the globe ; first, in her sister ship of discovery, the ' Adventure,' Captain King, and afterwards as first lieutenant of the sloop now intrusted to his command.

Under Captain Wickham some of the most important objects of the voyage were achieved, but in consequence of his retirement in March 1841, owing to ill health, the command of the ' Beagle' was entrusted to the author of the follow ing pages ; and as, by a singular combination of circumstances, no less than three long and hazardous voyages of discovery have been successfully completed in this vessel, some account of her here may not be VOYAGES OF THE 'BEAGLE.' 3 wholly uninteresting. The reader will be surprised to learn that she belongs to that much-abused class, the " 10-gun brigs," — coffins, as they are not unfrequently designated in the service ; notwithstanding which, she has proved herself, under every possible variety of trial, in all kinds of weather, an excel lent sea hoat. She was built at Woolwich in 1819, and her first exploit was the novel and unprece dented one of passing through old London bridge — (the first rigged man-of-war that had ever floated so high upon the waters of the Thames) — in order to salute at the coronation of King George the Fourth.

Towards the close of the year 1825 she was first commissioned by Commander Pringle Stokes,* as second officer of the expedition which sailed from Plymouth on the 22nd of May, 1826, under the command of Captain Philip Parker King; an account of which voyage, published by Captain R. Fitz-Roy, — who ultimately succeeded to the vacancy occasioned bv the lamented death of Captain Stokes, and who subsequently commanded the ' Beagle,' during her second solitary, but most interesting expedition, — has added to the well earned reputation of the seaman, the more enduring laurels which literature and science can alone supply. Though painful recollections surround the sub ject, it would be hardly possible to offer an account of the earlier history of the Beagle, and yet make no * Not related to the author.

DEATH OF CAPTAIN STOKES. allusion to the fate of her first commander, in whom the service lost, upon the testimony of one well qualified to judge, " an active, intelligent, and most energetic officer;" and well has it been remarked by the same high authority, " that those who have been exposed to one of such trials as his, upon an unknown lee shore, during the worst description of weather, will understand and appreciate some of those feelings which wrought too powerfully upon his excitable iqind." The constant and pressing cares connected with his responsible command — the hardships and the dangers to which his crew were of necessity exposed during the survey of Tierra del Fuego — and in some degree the awful gloom which rests for ever on that storm-swept coast, — finally destroyed the equilibrium of a mind dis tracted with anxiety and shattered by disease.

Perhaps no circumstance could prove more strongly the peculiar difficulties connected with a service of this nature, nor could any more clearly testify that in this melancholy instance every thought of self-preservation was absorbed by a zeal to pro mote the objects of the expedition, which neither danger, disappointment, anxiety, nor disease could render less earnest, or less vigilant, even to the last ! The two vessels returned to England in October, 1830, when the Adventure was paid off at Wool wich, and the Beagle at Plymouth ; she was re commissioned by Captain Fitz-Roy — to whose de- THIRD VOYAGE OF THE ' BEAGLE.' 5 lightful narrative allusion has been already made — on the 4th July, 1831,* and continued under his command till her return to Woolwich in November, 1836 ; where, after undergoing some slight repairs, she was a third time put in commission for the purposes of discovery, under Commander Wickham, her former first lieutenant ; and shortly afterwards commenced that third voyage, of the toils and suc cesses of which, as an humble contribution to the stores of geographical knowledge, I have attempted in the following pages to convey as faithful and complete an account as the circumstances under which the materials have been prepared will allow.

Nor will the subject less interest myself, when I call to mind, that for eighteen years the Beagle has been to me a home upon the wave — that my first cruize as a Middy was made in her ; that serving in her alone 1 have passed through every grade in my profession to the rank I have now the honour to hold — that in her I have known the excitements of imminent danger, and the delights of long antici pated success ; and that with her perils and her name are connected those recollections of early and familiar friendship, to which even memory herself fails to do full justice! * The Beagle was stripped to her timbers, and rebuilt under this able officer's own inspection : and among other improve ments, she had the lightning conductors of the well-known Snow Harris, Esq., F.R.S. fitted to her masts ; a circumstance to which she has more than once been indebted for her safety.

The following instructions were received by Cap tain Wickham, previous to our departure from Woolwich, and under them I subsequently acted. " By the Commissioners for executing the office of Lord High Admiral of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, Sfc. "Whereas his Majesty's surveying vessel, 'Beagle,' under your command, has been fitted out for the purpose of exploring certain parts of the north-west coast of New Holland, and of surveying the best channels in the straits of Bass and Torres, you are hereby required and directed, as soon as she shall be in all respects ready, to repair to Plymouth Sound, in order to obtain a chronometric departure from the west end of the breakwater, and then to proceed, with all convenient expedition, to Santa Cruz, in Teneriffe. " In the voyage there, you are to endeavour to pass over the reputed site of the Eight Stones, within the limits pointed out by our Hydrographer ; but keeping a strict look out for any appearance of discoloured water, and getting a few deep casts of the lead.

" At Teneriffe you are to remain three days, for the purpose of rating the chronometers, when you are to make the best of your way to Bahia, in order to replenish your water, and from thence to Simon's Bay, at the Cape of Good Hope ; where, having without loss of time obtained the necessary refreshments, you will proceed direct to Swan River ; but as the severe gales which are sometimes felt at that settlement may not have entirely ceased, you will approach that coast with due caution. " At Swan River, you are to land Lieutenants Grey and Lushington, as well as to refit and water with all convenient despatch ; and you are then to proceed immediately to the north-west coast of New Holland, making the coast in the vicinity of Dampier Land. The leading objects of your examination there will be, the extent of the two deep inlets connected with Roebuck Bay and Cygnet Bay, where the strength and elevation of the tides m! * O have led to the supposition that Dampier Land is an island, and that the above openings unite in the mouth of a river, or that they branch off from a wide and deep gulf.

Moderate and regular soundings extend far out from Cape Villaret: you will, therefore, in the first instance, make that head land ; and, keeping along the southern shore of Roebuck Bay, penetrate at once as far as the ' Beagle' and her boats can find sufficient depth of water ; but you must, however, take care not too precipitately to commit his Majesty's ship among these rapid tides, nor to entangle her among the numerous rocks with which all this part of the coast seems to abound ; but by a cautious advance of your boats, for the double purpose of feeling your way, and at the same time of surveying, you will establish her in a judicious series of stations, equally beneficial to the progress of the survey, and to the support of your detached people. " Prince Regent River appears to have been fully examined by Captain King up to its fresh water rapids, but as the adjacent ridges of rocky land which were seen on both sides of Collier Bay, were only laid down from their distant appearance, it is probable that they will resolve themselves into a collection of islands in the rear of Dampier Land ; and it is possible that they may form avenues to some wide expanse of water, or to the mouth of some large river, the discovery of which would be highly interesting.