Fifteen Months' Pilgrimage through ... Khuzistan and Persia, in a journey from India to England, through parts of Turkish Arabia, Persia, Armenia, Russia, and Germany, etc

Front matter

[HAM - • :.;O::E0 ' it/ SaAU,x,de>rj $: OUey (tnaluU Sir, FIFTEEN MONTHS' PILGRIMAGE THROUGH UNTRODDEN TRACTS OF KHUZISTAN AND PERSIA, IN A JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO ENGLAND, THROUGH PARTS OF TURKISH ARABIA, PERSIA, ARMENIA, RUSSIA, AND GERMANY. PERFORMED IN THE YEARS 1831 AND 1832. BY J. H. STOCQUELER, Esq. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: SAUNDERS AND OTLEY, CONDUIT STREET 1832. LONDON: IBOTSON AND l'ALMER, PRINTERS, SAVOY STRUT, STRAND. ro HER ROYAL HIGHNESS THE DUCHESS OF CAMBRIDGE. &c. &c. &c. Madam ; If dedications have not entirely ceased to be considered the genuine offsprings of grateful hearts, I dare to hope your Royal Highness will receive the following pages in humble token of my acknowledgment of the condescen sion and favour bestowed on me during my late residence in Hanover. I have the honour to remain, Madam, Your Royal Highness's obliged and most obedient servant, J. H. STOCQUELER. London, July, 1832.

Introduction

. When the writer of the following pages left India, in February 1831, it was with the view of making an expeditious journey to England by a beaten road. He had not therefore pre pared himself by a diligent course of reading, for the composition of an " overland journey," and indeed, it is doubtful, seeing how many of those productions, added to the travels of eminent men, have issued from the press of late years, he could have brought himself to think that any addition to the public stock of knowledge regarding Persia, Asia Minor, and Europe, was a

INTRODUCTION.

. VI called for. He had not, however, got fairly upon Persian ground before he became the sport of chance, and unable to carry into effect his original plans, was thrown into parts of Khuzistan and Iran, which he found had never been trodden by Europeans. This first suggested to him the propriety of keeping a more accurate journal than would suffice for his own purpose, and of devoting some attention to the topography of the terra incognita, in view to general utility. As he advanced, his motives for close observation increased. The political condition of Persia furnished matter for thought and speculation, and the opening of trade between Great Britain and the Asiatic shores of the Black Sea likewise attracted attention. The latter object seemed to demand extended notice, for though the Earl of Aberdeen, when foreign secretary, wisely appointed a consul to Trebisond, in order to create an opening for the further consumption of British manufactured goods, yet so completely had the mercantile

INTRODUCTION.

. VII interest in England been kept in the dark on the subject, that little had been done when the writer reached Trebisond, to promote the due consummation of the views of the government. Reaching Europe at the close of the Polish war, several circumstances occurred to the writer, worthy, as it appeared to him, of record, not the least of which was his rencontre with the illustrious Skyrznecki, an event that the writer will remember to the latest moment of his life with pride and satisfaction. To this inducement to the sin of publication may be added the opportunities possessed by the writer of acquiring some knowledge of the courts of Hanover and Berlin, and of the state of feeling in Holland. These circumstances, combined with a detail of more personal adventure than falls to the lot of ordinary tourists, constitute the writer's apology for challenging public notice. He fears that great exception will be taken to the loose and hurried manner in which his thoughts

INTRODUCTION.

. and observations have been committed to paper, but he will hope for a little indulgence, when he affirms that circumstances, which call him away from his native country, have precluded his submitting his manuscript in the first instance to any literary or book-making ac quaintances. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Arab trading vessels — Arrival at Muscat — Visit to Seid Syud the Imaum — His character — His naval force — His horses — Leave Muscat — Arab seamen — Voyage up the Persian Gulph — Bushire — The Armenian school page 1

Chapter II

Sail to Grane — Description of Grane, or Koete — Vexations — Depart for, and reach Bussorah — An Armenian functionary — Court of Conscience — A bath — The Residency Garden — The French Consul — Leave for Bagdad— Mallahs, or Trackers — Voyage up the Euphrates— Gomruck— Cross the Arabian Irak— Meet the British Resident— Sad News— Beat a Retreat to Bussorah . . • CONTENTS. X

Chapter III

Bussorah again — Change of scene — The " functionary" under a new aspect — Cases of Plague — The Pasha of Bagdad — His career— Political Views and Reflections — A few suggestions regarding the Steam Navigation of the Tigris and Euphrates 42

Chapter VIII

R^ach Isfahan — Julfa — The Armenians — Plans for the improvement of their condition — A Convent and a Nunnery — A vestry dinner — Depart for Tabreez — Further detention — Adventures in a tomb — Journey over untrodden ground — Castor oil and leeches — General sketch of a new route through the heart of Persia- Reach Tabreez — Kindness of the acting Envoy 125

Chapter IX

Tabreez — Costume — Distaste for manufactures — Abbas Meerza's palace— The Ark — The Russian deserters — Political condition of Persia — Measures essential to Persian strength — The Persian army . 153

Chapter X

Departure from Tabreez — My domestic — Picturesque Villages — A Barber — Khoie — Disagreeable reception — Fertility of Khoie — Persians bad marksmen — Change of scene — Turks — Mount Ararat — Gay encampment — Koords ... . CONTENTS.

Chapter XI

Bayazeed — Gloomy reflections — Departurefor Arzeroum — Ararat again — Review of Sir R. K. Porter's hypothesis regarding the Ark — The Koords — A Koordish camp — Costume — New companions — Interesting march — Singular scene — Armenian villages— Alashke — Visit to the Pacha of Bayazeed — His history . . 199

Chapter XII

Journey to Arzeroum — Dalla-Baba — Ballechoie — Hassan-Caleh — Mineral spring — Arzeroum — Turkish disciplined forces — Climate, population, productions of Arzeroum — Baiboot — Journey to Trebisond — Scenery — Trebisond . . .235

Appendix

. A PILGRIMAGE.

Chapter I

Arab trading vessels — Arrival at Muscat — Visit to Seid Syud the Imaum — His character — His naval force — His horses — Leave Muscat — Arab seamen — Voyage up the Persian gulph — Bushire — The Armenian school. Having ascertained that there was neither a merchant ship, nor a Company's cruizer in the harbour bound for the Persian Gulph, I ventured to quit Bombay on the 18th of February 1831, in an uncouth Arab trading boat bearing the appellation of a buggala. The appearance of the vessel did not offer much prospect of comfortable accommodation ; but what it want ed in luxury it seemed to supply in novelty and romance. Buggalas are large boats averaging from one to two hundred tons burthen ; they VOL. I. B A BUGGALA. have high sterns and pointed prows, one large cabin on a somewhat inclined plane, galleries and stern windows: they usually carry two large latteen sails, and occasionally a jib ; are generally built at Cochin and other places on the Malabar coast, and are employed by the Arab and Hindoo merchants on the trade between Arabia, Persia, and the Indian coast.

The Nasserie, on which I engaged a passage for the sum of one hundred and fifty rupees, was manned by about forty or fifty natives of Grane, or Koete, on the western side of the Persian Gulph, and commanded by a handsome Nacquodah in the prime of manhood. The sailors acknowledged a kind of paternal authority on the part of this commander, and mixed with their ready obedience to his mandates a familiarity quite foreign to English notions of respect, and the due maintenance of subordination. The Nacquodah took no share in the navigation of the vessel while it was crossing to Muscat, this duty being entrusted to an old Arab who understood the use of the sextant, and who was so correct in his observations that we made Ras-el-had within an hour of the time MUSCAT. 3 he had predicted we should. The voyage was, as most voyages are during a favourable season, as pleasant as gentle gales, sunny skies, and moonlight nights could make it, and at the same time as monotonous as it could be render ed in the absence of society, a clear deck, (for ours was covered with cotton bales and rice bags,) and varied scenery.

Reaching Muscat on the 3rd of March, after an absence from Bombay of eleven days, I took up my quarters at the house of Reuben Asian, a Jew agent for the Bombay Government, and was treated with as much cordiality as if I had been "one of the tribe of Israel." Conformably to custom, I intimated to his highness the Imaum my desire to pay my respects in person, and was soon afterwards informed that his highness was prepared to receive me. The visit was one of considerable interest. The Imaum's palace was close to the water's edge in front of the town, and his highness received Reuben and myself in an arbour or veranda open to the sea. At the entrance to the veranda stood several well dressed Arabs armed with b THE IMAUM. sword, spear, and dagger, and half a dozen dirty looking Abyssinians clothed somewhat like the sepoys of our Indian army, and equip ped much after the same fashion.

These latter, as I understood, were paraded in honour of my visit ; and indeed generally form the garde du corps on occasions of an Englishman's present ation at the Court of Muscat. The Imaum rose on our entrance and accommodated us with chairs, and after we had been served with some insipid sherbet, addressed himself to me on the subject of my journey, its object and direction; and then touched on the politics of Europe. He had heard of the French revolution in 1830, and was anxious to know if the king of Eng land had consented to recognize Louis-Phillipe, and whether the revolution had spread itself into neighbouring countries. I gave his highness, through the interpretation of a young Arab naval officer, who spoke English with uncom mon fluency, an account of the Belgium and Brunswick insurrections, (of which alone we had received any intimation when I left India,) and finished by congratulating him on the THE IMAUM. 5 happy contrast furnished by the peaceable and healthy condition of his own possessions.

Our interview closed by his highness offering me the use of his horses, his houses, and his ships of war, the cabins of which afforded excellent accommodation, and which were generally occupied by English visitors. I thanked his highness and retired. Seid Syud, the Imaum of Muscat, has often been noticed by travellers from India, and in deed it would be uncourteous at any time to pass over all mention of a prince who seems to take so much real pleasure in contributing to the comfort and convenience of his European guests. He is a mild, gentlemanly looking man of about forty years of age, — a warrior and a trader, a just governor and a chivalric lover : I believe his present wife is a Persian lady of noble birth, the possession of whom cost him an expedition against the Sheikh of Bushire. The people of Muscat, if not all the Arabs of the Persian gulph, hold the Imaum in great esteem.

They affirm that he is just in his dealings and decisions, liberal of reward, anxious for im- HIS NAVY. provement, and tolerant of the religions of other nations. They believe him to be invincible, and perhaps, in relation to the force of other Mahomedan chiefs, he may deserve the title. In time of war 10,000 men readily flock to his standard, and prove by their zeal, their regard for his interests. His naval strength consists of twelve large vessels, including a 74 gun ship, and a frigate of 44 guns, both of which have had the honour of spending their best days in the British service, and are now reposing within the cove of Muscat. Colonel Macdonald Kinneir, in his travels through Asia Minor, expresses his fears that " the rising naval power" of this prince may be a subject of serious inconveni ence to us, in the event of any European power invading India; but, independent of the con sideration, that on the occurrence of such a calamity the Imaum would in all probability support our interests, it should be borne in mind that he has neither pecuniary means, nor a naval population sufficiently ample to enable him at once to man and equip a force of sufficient extent, to justify any alarm on that head.

HIS STUD. 7 The Imaum of Muscat is passionately fond of horses, and devotes considerable time and attention to their breeding. I visited his stables, and there saw about forty sleek, symmetrical, high-blooded, unshod stallions, twenty mares from Cutch and Bahrein, four mules, and a few milch camels; some of the horses were however suffering much from the diseases horseflesh " is heir to," and the man entrusted with their care and cure, appeared to possess little essential veterinary knowledge. Besides which, there are no means of exercising the animals at Muscat, and of thus contributing to their restoration to health when once afflicted. Of some of the finest horses in his stud, the Imaum makes presents to the governors of the Indian presidencies, and deserving officers in his own service.

Horses likewise form an arti cle of trade between Muscat and India, and yield, as I have been told, a considerable profit. During my stay his highness sent me one of his stud, with a guide, to enable me to thread the mazes of the town and examine the environs. Good feeding and little exertion had rendered the animal rather unruly ; and as I had only a ARAB SAILORS. snaffle I found it no easy matter to curb him. With the blessing of God, however, I tore through narrow alleys, nicknamed streets, bob bed my head every twenty yards rather than kiss the projecting beams and roofs of houses ; scam pered over two miles of stones and rocks, and returned safely ; more gratified with my own skill in equitation, than with any thing I had seen. I left Muscat* after a week's stay, and we proceeded with a cargo of hides and matting on our voyage to Bushire.

We had parted with our scientific navigator, for, as the rest of the voyage lay along the coast, with every point and head-land of which the Arabs are well acquainted, no further guide was necessary. There were two seacunnies, or quarter masters, on board, who steered by an English compass, but in every other respect things were con ducted in a most unseamanlike manner. The Arabs, though hardy and muscular, are very inexpert sailors, and so tardy in their move ments that they occupy as much time in furling * See Appendix A. ARAB SAILORS. 9 the main sail and hoisting the main yard, as it would take an English crew of a quarter the extent, to reef the whole canvas and put the vessel about. Every occupation of the Islamite seamen, however trifling it may be, is invariably accompanied by the drowsy carol of some su perannuated calassee, kept expressly for the purpose, while, on important occasions, a whole band of drum, tambourine, and cymbal-beaters, is called into requisition, and setting the heels, hands, and tongues of the ship's company in motion, produces a picture of merry labour that must be seen to be adequately understood.

In person, the Arab sailors are extremely filthy. The coarse shirt with which their per sons are invested, is rarely, I may say never, taken off during the whole voyage, and the only ablutions in which they indulge, are those trifling lavements of the hands, feet, and face, which precede and follow the evening meal of boiled rice and dates. I found the Arabs ex tremely willing to render me any little service of which I stood in need, but I never knew them return thanks for any kindness or attenb VOYAGE TO BUSHIRE. tion bestowed on them. They prefer recipro cating good offices, to an indulgence in superfluous acknowledgments. The voyage to Bushire offered very little of novelty or entertainment — at any rate, little worth recording. We proceeded cautiously along the coast, running into different little bays, and dropping anchor when furious shu mauls, or north-westers, interrupted our course, and occasionally supplying ourselves with fish and fresh water.* Navigators and travellers * An extract from my journal of the 21st of March will convey a notion of the character of the places visited. 21st. The N. W. wind continuing, we went about and took refuge in the little harbour of Th' arree.

The town, situated at the foot of a range of sandy hills, and composed of low, flat-roofed dwellings of the same materials as the hills, would to any but the eye of a sea voyager, wearied with the monotony of sea and sky, present an uninteresting appearance, being only diversified with a few date and other trees. To me, however, it was inexpressibly grateful. In order to procure a supply of fresh water, the nacquodah proposed going on shore and taking one of the water tanks in the mutchwah, or jolly boat. I accompanied him. On reaching shore the surf wasfound to be running so high that we were compelled to jump into the water, and wade up to our breasts, before we could reach the beach. Our men immediately pro- VOYAGE TO BUSHIRE. have already sufficiently described the scenery and natural productions of the Persian gulph; it is not necessary, therefore, to say more than that I saw enough of sand and rock to confirm ceeded to fill their goat skins (jerrbhas) with water from a neighbouring well ; and I wandered about, taking a Seedy as my guide to inspect the town.

The houses are built of stone and sand, with a cement compounded of mud and straw. They appear to be thickly inhabited, but the inhabitants are very poor. They are principally fishermen. I visited a pottery, and found the manufacturers (Persians) engaged in making hookah bottles and chillums, chattahs, jars, and water bottles. Inquiring for some fish, the guide and I were directed to a spot half a mile distant, where fifty men were engaged in hauling their nets on shore. They had a famous draught of large fish about the size of salmon, but coloured like the mackerel. I purchased thirty or forty for half a dollar. These fish are called by the natives goobabs. They gave me four or five of a different quality, resembling the cod in flavour, but spotted red on the belly ; these they called sodes ; the flesh of the former is red, that of the latter, white, and deliciously flavoured.

Judging from the great number of sparrows, swallows, butterflies, wasps, beetles and ants, which I saw during an hour's stay at this place, I should imagine the climate to be extremely temperate and salubrious. The thermometer, in the morning, was 68°. The water from the wells is sweet and clear. Ophthal mia appeared to be as prevalent here as at Muscat or on board. The men dress like the better kind of Arabs; BUSHIRE. the representations of my predecessors, and was as much delighted with the luminous aspect of the medusœ as a perusal of Moore's Lalla Rookh led me to expect I should be. On the 25th of March we reached Bushire, where the Hon. Company's frigate Clive was lying at anchor. I accepted an invitation to dine with the captain, and as he was to sail the next morning I took the opportunity of writing to Bombay.

March 26. — This morning, on the invitation of Captain Hennell, the acting political resident, I went on shore and took up my quarters in an apartment politely assigned me in the British residency. Bushire, or Abusheer, or Bender Busheer, as it is variously called, has lost a considerable portion of its commercial importance of late years. It still, however, continues a useful channel of communication between the British the women, in blue chadres with masks and a strip of silver or gold down the centre. The coins, in currency here are the Persian karoon, three and a half of which are equivalent to a dollar, and the gaz, a copper coin used at Muscat. THE REV. JOSEPH WOLFF. 13 authorities in India and their delegates in Persia, at the same time that it furnishes a con venient resort to the vessels of war, constantly cruising about the gulph to prevent the regene ration of piracy.

The climate of Bushire, though tolerably salubrious during the winter months, is insufferably hot at other seasons, and has proved the grave of many estimable Euro peans. They repose, for the most part, in the veranda of the Armenian church ; and flat, reddish stones, brought from Shiraz, indicate their ages, name, and qualities. In the cemetery attached to this tabernacle, is a small school kept up by the Armenians. It was founded by the famous Joseph Wolff, the converted Israelite, and its objects having appeared to be of extensive utility, the British residents in Persia, with Sir John Macdonald at their head, subscribed the sum of 700/. in view to their attainment. Mr. Wolff's interest in the insti tution ceased, however, with his brief stay ; for though some years have elapsed since his de parture, none of the fair promises he made have ARMENIAN SCHOOL. yet been realized.

The school possessed, while I was at Bushire, no more than thirteen pupils, who were struggling through the rudiments of the Persian and Armenian languages, under the guidance of a sleepy old Armenian.

Chapter II

Sail to Grane — Description of Grane, or Koete — Vexations — Depart for, and reach Bussorah — An Armenian functionary — Court of Conscience — A bath — The Residency Garden — The French Consul — Leave for Bagdad — Mallahs, or Trackers — Voyage up the Euphrates — Gomruck — Cross the Arabian Irak — Meet the British Resident — Sad News — Beat a Retreat to Bussorah. April 1 . — The buggala having discharged the greater part of her cargo, we again set sail this morning. The immediate and final des tination of the buggala was Grane or Koete, at the extremity of the west coast of the Per sian Gulph, but as I had bargained for a pas sage to Bussorah, I refused, through Captain Hennell's obliging agency, to go to Grane, un- SIGNALS. less the owners undertook subsequently to send me on to Bussorah. To this they consented, and we accordingly departed.

The wind being contrary, it took us three days to reach our destination. Our arrival was announced from the vessel by numerous dis charges from a rusty old six-pounder, mounted on a decayed wooden carriage. The first dis charge knocked off one wheel, the second carried off two others, the third split the carriage in twain, and for the rest the gun was coolly laid upon the bare deck and suffered to caper a discretion. It was fine sport to the sailors, who certainly are not deficient in courage and daring, however indifferently they may serve artillery. April 4. — It blew a hard gale all day. The town appeared completely enveloped in the dust of the surrounding desert ; and the motion of the buggala, though at anchor, was most unpleasant. 5th.— The gale having been followed by a calm, I sent my servant on shore.

He returned about 9 a. m. with milk, butter, &c. ; and the GO ON SHORE. intelligence that it was the wish of the owner of the buggala that we should go on shore and stay a few days, until a vessel could be got ready for Bussorah. Hearing this, I determined to proceed at once, and expressed my resolu tion not to be detained on any pretext. After breakfast I went on shore, and was conducted to the owner's house. Passing through two or three courtyards, I reached an apartment arched in the centre, where the owner and his two brothers were seated smoking. They were all dressed alike, and so much resembling each other in feature, and in the total loss of the left eye, that it was difficult to discover my friend the supracargo, who had accompanied us from Bombay. After the usual salutations, I ex pressed my wish to proceed the following day to Bussorah, and found that the determined tone in which I spoke had the desired effect.

I was promised that a buggara* should instantly be prepared. After taking coffee, milk, bread, and hulwah, I left Abdul Assan's (the owner's) house to take a stroll about the town. * A smaller class of vessel. KOETE OR GRANE. Koete, or Grane as it is called in the maps, is in extent about a mile long, and a quarter of a mile broad. It consists of houses built of mud and stone, occasionally faced with coarse chunam, and may contain about four thousand inhabitants. The houses being for the most part square in form, with a courtyard in the centre, (having the windows looking into the yard,) present but a very bare and uniform ex terior, like, indeed, all the houses in the Persian Gulph. They have flat roofs, composed of the trunk of the date tree. The streets of Koete are wider than those of Muscat or Bushire, with a gutter running down the centre.

A wall surrounds the town on the desert face, but it is more for show than protection, as it is not a foot thick. To keep up the farce, however, a trench has been dug around the wall, and two honeycombed pieces of ordnance protect each of the three gates. Beyond the wall nothing is to be seen but a vast sandy plain, extending to a distance of more than sixty miles. Not a tree, not a shrub affords the eye a momentary relief. SPECULATION. Koete within the walls is equally sterile, it literally yields nothing ; and when to this is added the fact of the water being far from sweet, it is difficult to conjecture how such a site could have been chosen for the establish ment of four hundred families. I was informed that the Arabs had only been in possession of the place about one hundred and fifty years, and that previously to that period it was occupied by Englishmen and their forces, who received or conquered it from the Portu guese, in whose hands it enjoyed some noto riety during the plenitude of their importance in India.

It certainly is a commodious harbour for small craft, and may probably have been occu pied by the Portuguese, (the English could have had nothing to do with it,) on account of the command it gives over the mouth of the river of the Arabs, and the power it thus con fen-ed of interrupting the Turkish and Vene tian trade with India. Koete is governed by a sheikh, who keeps up WAHABEES. no armed force. He levies a duty of two per cent, upon all imports. While I was at Koete a body of Wahabee Arabs, with their black tents, camels, and white asses, were encamped without the walls. The men appeared to have good-natured faces, mixed with a little cunning ; and many wore their hair arranged in small plaits, and falling about the face. Their women seemed fair and tall. The circumstance which struck me as most singular in Koete was the exact uniformity of costume amongst all ranks and ages, and the fact of there being no natives of any other country >resident in the place.

I left the shore at three p. m., and returned on board, after having afforded as much amuse ment by my singular appearance in the Euro pean costume as I had derived from my visit. Hundreds followed me to the shore, gazing at every part of my dress with the utmost as tonishment. This arose, I understood, from my having been almost the only European who has visited the place for many years. A DISPUTE. 6th. — Soon after breakfast I received a visit from the owner of the buggala, for whom I prescribed a blister. The buggara, a smaller kind of vessel than the buggala, and which was intended to convey us to Bussorah, came off about noon, and all my things were packed up to be put on board, when a furious alterca tion arose between Abdul Assan and the nacquodah of the buggara regarding the amount of passage money, which ended in the buggara going off without us.

I was greatly incensed, but the owner of the buggala solemnly avowed his intention to go on shore and send a vessel instantly for our accommodation. After a time he went off, and I then learnt from one of my fellow passengers, a Persian, that the ground of dispute between the two boat owners was the refusal of the buggara owner to take cargo to Bussorah in addition to passengers, and not his refusal to carry us for the stipulated sum. This added to my vexation, but I resolved to wait the night through before taking any steps. Night came on, and no buggara — patience ! 7th. — At daylight I roused my servant, DEPARTURE. and ordered him to go on shore in the jolly boat, and hire a vessel on my own account. The people on board refused to accompany him. I then dressed and declared my resolution to go myself; on which two of them stepped forward and offered to go.