The East. Sketches of Travels in Egypt and the Holy Land

Preface

. The Author of the following Letters is anxious to say a word or two to his readers, before they do him the honor of venturing upon the perusal of what he has written. It is to forewarn them that they are not to expect erudite disquisitions on antiquity, history, chronology, and such like matters ; neither must they look here for critical dissertations on science in its various relations to Egyptian or Hebraistic lore. Though the Author has transgressed on one or two occasions, being led away by the deep interest of the subject, he, nevertheless, makes no pretensions to more than ordinary fitness for dealing with the vexatæ quæs tiones of scholars ; and were he able to add any of his own learned dulness, to the mass already reposing on the shelves of royal and na tional libraries, he would, under the circumstances under which he wrote, most carefully have eschewed everything of the sort.

He begs to assure his readers, that the Letters now made public, were actually written — except in a few instances— as they profess to be, and at the time when they are dated :* they were addressed to one at home, v * It is but proper, however, to state, that on revising the Letters since his return, the Author has added notes here and there from works published since the date of the Letters in the present volume. He has also in his quotations from Mr. Williams's " Holy City," made them conformable to the second and enlarged edition of that valuable work : while the Author was in the East the first and less complete edition was all that was accessible to him. He has preferred this course, wherever it seemed desirable, even at the risk of being charged with anachronisms. 17'

PREFACE.

. VI dearer to him than all else in the wide world, and had most of all in view, her interest and pleasure ; and if there be aught of hfe or value in them to readers in general, it may not improperly be attributed to the fact of the Author's writing on the spot, while the subjects were fresh in his mind and silling all his thoughts. It has been a pleasing thing to him, to hope, that many a reader will love to hear of those sacred regions, where our Lord walked in the days of His flesh, and will love to know how full of Holy Scripture is the Holy Land ; and hence, though originally he wrote for one out of the thousands and tens of thousands of Christ's soldiers and servants, he has trusted that he may be the humble instrument of adding to the knowledge, and confirming the faith, of others, among those who believe in, and adore the Divine Saviour.

Nothing doubting, on his own part, that the Word of God is sure and standeth fast forever, he has loved to speak of it, whenever he beheld its holy truths illustrated, enforced or impressed upon the mind and heart ; and he shall esteem himself happy indeed, if he has been able to make others partakers of the deep convictions, and the clearer, brighter views of the truth as it is in Jesus, which it was his privilege to enjoy in both Egypt and the Holy Land. The Author's aim has uniformly been to deal plainly, candidly, and in earnest with everything which came under his observation : he has not hesitated to express a decided opinion on some occasions, where, perhaps, modesty should have taught him to be silent; he has not scrupled to speak out what he believes respecting many of the questions relative to oriental life, manners, customs, principles, &c. ; and he would fain hope that, though the following Letters do not pretend to any original research in the great field of geography, history, and an* tiquities, the reader may, notwithstanding, obtain a tolerable idea from them, of the most important points of interest to the Christian student.

In justice to himself, the Author deems it but right to speak of a mat ter almost purely personal. When he left home early in the spring of 1848, he had no expectation whatever of proceeding beyond England

PREFACE.

. VII and the Continent ; neither his time nor his engagements admitting of any protracted absence from the United States ; but as various circum stances — which it would not, he trusts, be wrong to term providential — occurred to open the way, and as he was solicited by a dear friend to join him in a projected journey to the East, after some hesitation he yielded consent, and gladly became a pilgrim, with his face set toward the Holy City. Up to that date he had never given any special atten tion to Egyptian history and learning, and his knowledge of the Arabic was confined to the elements of the language. He felt consequently with great keenness, his own deficiencies in many points, and he well knows that his enjoyment was much marred by want of previous preparation, and his fitness so much the less for undertaking to write any thing respecting the East.

He hopes that this statement may account for various lacunæ and imperfections which will readily be discovered. So much for self; it is far more pleasing to turn to something of more consequence. The Author begs to return his sincere thanks to all the friends and brethren who have encouraged him to hope, that these Letters may be acceptable and not unuseful to the public ; he would also embrace the present opportunity to acknowledge his obli gations, in various ways, to his learned young friend and fellow-voy ager, Mr. George W. Pratt, and to give utterance to the hope that he may continue to cultivate oriental studies, for which he has peculiar aptness and capacity. To J. B. Atkinson, Esq., who, though trained to the severer studies of the law, is a devoted lover and cultivator of art, the Author would particularly express his thanks.

The reader will readily understand; how materially Mr. Atkinson's pencil has added charm and beauty to the present volume ; and he may gather from these specimens of the artist's talents, what a treat is in store for the public, when that gentleman is prevailed upon to submit his entire portfolio to the admi rers and patrons of art. A word or two in conclusion may be allowed the Author. He ven tures to offer these Letters to the public, without much apprehension as

PREFACE.

. to their fate ; for he is well convinced that they will meet with all the indulgence which they deserve ; and will speedily find their true level in the estimation of the reading community. If it be found that they contain nothing of interest or value to the Christian public in general, and that they ought never to have been dragged forth, through the un wise partiality of friends, from the privacy of their original destination, the writer of them will yield to no one in wishing that they may speedily sink into neglect and oblivion ; but if it be true, as he believes and trusts, that they are not unworthy attention, as coming from one who has spoken honestly and straight-forwardly ; as being free from exaggeration, affectation, or a captious spirit ; and as treating of matters deeply important and interesting to all ; then he will not doubt, that even a new book on the East will be received with indulgent favor ; and he will have the satisfaction of knowing, that he has not lived and written altogether in vain. New York. December 20th. 1 8-to CONTENTS. 6gwt.

Letter I. Alexandria

PAQB Voyage from Malta.— Arrival.— First Impressions.— Contrasts.— The Modern City.— Glimpses of Oriental Life.— Remnants of the Past.— Pompey's Pillar.— The Obelisks. — Recollections of by-gone Ages, 1

Letter II. The Nile And The Pyramids

Mahmudieh Canal. — Importance. — Petty Steamers. — Scenery.— Atfeh.— Discomforts. — First View of the Nile. — Scenery Peculiarly Oriental. — Arrival at Cairo in the Night.— The Metropolis. — Start for the Pyramids. — Masr el Atikeh. — Mosque of 'Amr. — Tradition. — Island of Rhoda. — Pyramids from East Bank ofthe Nile. — Gizeh. — Plain between River and Pyramids. — Effect of Gradual Approach. — Immense Masses of Stone. — Ascent.— Prospect from the Summit.— Visit to the Interior. — Narrow, Dark Passages.— "King's Chamber." — Sarcophagus. — Perhaps Discoveries yet to be made. — " Queen's Chamber." — Very Hot and Dusty inside. — Evening Walk. — Vast Necropolis of Royal Memphis, 23 LETTER HI. THE PYRAMIDS AND THEIR BUILDERS. The Second Pyramid.— The Pyramid of Mycerinus.— The Sphinx.— Its Position and Appearance. — Its Former Glory. — Mystical Import of the Sphinx. — Object of the Pyramids. —Historical Abstract.— Statements of Herodotus, Diodorus, Strabo, Pliny.— Early Christian Travellers.— Date of the Pyramids.— Who built the Pyramids ?— Intended Uses of these Structures.— Exciting Scene on Leaving the Pyramids, . . . . CONTENTS. X

Letter IV. Life On The Nile

PAOB Romance os Lise on the Nile.— Our Boat, the " Ibis."— Description of it— The Reis, Pilot and Crew.— Their Characters and Habits.— Dragoman and Servants.— A Day Described. —Adventure with Dogs on Shore— Other Adventures and Exploits.— Characteristics of this Sort of Life, 71

Letter V

i PHILAE SYENE ELEPH. ■ESNEH. Vicinity of Philae.— The Island.— Ruins.— Extent and Character.— Egyptian Architecture. —Its Effect in General.— Large Chamber.— Used by the Early Christians.— Crosses and Inscriptions.— Greek, Italian, French, &c— The Cataracts.— Swimming Exhibition.— Syene.— The Granite Quarries.— Island of Elephantine.— Its Ruins.— Present Inhabitants.— Thoughts on their Condition.— Esneh.— Its Temple.— Ghawazy.— Disgusting Exhibitions, 89

Letter VI. Necropolis Of Thebes

Vast Variety and Extent of Ancient Thebes.— Details not Attempted. — Some Days spent in Looking over the Ground. — Difficulty of selecting Objects for Description. — Several Villages now occupy Site of Ancient Thebes. — History of its Downfall. — Outline Sketch of its Wonderful Ruins. — West Bank of the Nile. — Necropolis of Thebes. — Position of the Catacombs. — Belzoni's Tomb. — Interior. — Splendid Decorations and Sculptures. — Bruce's or the Harper's Tomb. — Deeply Interesting. — Other Tombs. — Temple at Medinet Habil. — Style and Character. — Sunrise Visit to the Vocal Memmon. — Position of the Colossi.— How was the Sound Produced ? — Present Condition of the Colossi, . . 100

Letter VII. Luxor And Karnak

Ruins at Luxor. — General Character. — View from the Propyla. — Obelisk. — Beauty and Finish.— Colossal Figures.— Sculptures on the Walls.— Ride to Karnak.— Dromos of Sphinxes.— Massive Gateways.—" Hundred-Gated Thebes."— The Great Temple.— Its Wondrous Extent and Grandeur.— Hall of Assembly.— Unequalled in Conception and Execution.— Power and Wealth of the Ancient Egyptians.— Beauty and Glory all gone. —Present Desolation.— Edifices in the Vicinity.— Magnificence and Splendor of Thebes as a Whole.— Comparative Antiquity of the Buildings.— Interesting Discovery of Champollion's.— Shishak.— Jerusalem Taken.— Hieroglyphics Explained.— Result, . . .131 CONTENTS. XI

Letter VIII. Dendera Es-siout Beni-hassan

PAGE Remains at Dendera.— Visit to the Temple.— Description.— Date.— Inferior Style of Architecture.— Interesting as a Whole.— The Zodiac— Unsounded Views once entertained.— Cleopatra.— Singular Representation.— Es-Siout.— Visit to the Coptic Bishop.— Appearance.— Conversation.— Characteristics.— Second Visit.— Coptic Churches.— Style and Arrangements.— Bishop of Esneh.— Character and Standing.— Stabl Antar.— Interesting Locality.— Beni-Hassan.— General Character of the Grottoes.— Paintings and Sculptures. —Supposed Connection with Joseph and his Brethren.— Exciting Interest ofthe Scene, 151

Letter IX. The Metropolis Of Egypt

Promise to be Fulfilled.— Scenes during a Day from the Window of our Hotel.— Variety, — Peculiarity, and StraDgeness of everything. — Noise and Confusion. — A Walk in the Streets and Lanes. — Coptic Quarter.— A Cairene House. — View from the Roof. — The Bazaars.— Process of Buying a Garment.— Cries of the Metropolis, . . . .173

Letter X. Mosks Citadel Heliopolis

Religious Edifices. — Great Number of Mosks in Cairo. — Mosk of Ahmed ibn et-Tdlun.— Oldest.— Minaret. — Anecdote.— Mosks easily visited. — Description of Interior.— Mosk of Sultan Hassan. — Finest in Cairo. — Interior. — Citadel. — Massacre of Memlooks. — Mohammed Ali's Mosk.— Splendid View from Citadel. — Adventure.— Objects of Interest in the Environs of Cairo. — Heliopolis. — Obelisk. — Sad Reflections. — Joseph and the Daughter of the Priest or Prince of On. — Sycamore of the Holy Family.— An Oriental Bath. — Description of one. — Its Peculiarities. — Great Enjoyment, 190

LETTER XL COPTIC CHUKCH PUBLIC MEN AND EVENTS.

Christian Privileges of Travellers. — Rev. Mr. Lieder and Family. — Missionary Operations in the East.— Visit to the Coptic Patriarch. — His Character and Position.— Church Services in the Patriarch's Church in Cairo. — Arrangements Internally.— Robes of the Priests. — Customs of the Worshippers. — Coptic and Arabic used in the Services. — Communion Service. — Consecration of the Elements.— Peculiarities of Administration. — Public Men in Cairo. — Mohammed Ali.— Ibrahim Pasha. — Abbas Pasha.— His Character and Course.— Presentation of Mr. Macauley, the American Consul-General.— Description of the Scene.— Did not go off Well.— Mr. Lane and Family.— Conclusion Respecting Egypt, <KJIJ Imlt] Iflnii.

Letter XII. Life In The Desert

PAOB Delights of a Lazaretto.— Oar Original Plan determined on.— The Short Route.— Number of our Party.— The Camel.— How arranged for Riding.— Peculiarities of this Sort of Locomotion.— Its Pleasures and Pains.— A Day's Scenes and Occurrences described. —The Punishment of the Rebellious Jews.— What is Seen and Felt in the Desert.— Our Route by el Arish.— Land of Goshen— Locusts.— El Kanka, Tel Jehudieh, Belbeis, Salahieh, &c— Arrival at El Arish.— Enter Asia.— Route to Gaza.— Quarantine.— The Town or City.— No Opportunity to Visit it.— Vexatious Loss of Time, . . . . 227

Letter XIII. Palestina The Hill Country

Peculiar Emotions excited by Visiting Jerusalem. — Not easily Explicable. — Our Route from Gaza. — Our Wish to be in the Holy City before Good Friday. — Horses and Mules. — Weather. — Contrast. — Immense Olive Groves. — Fertility and Beauty of the Land of the Philistines. — Commands of God with Respect to the Canaanites. — Conduct of the Jews. — Mode of Computing Distances in Syria. — Villages and Towns on the Road. — Dwellings of the People. — Emmaus or Nicopolis. — Latrun. — "Gate of the Valley." — Terrible Road upwards to Jerusalem. — Toil and Fatigue. — Time Occupied. — Abu Gosh. — Story.— First View of the Holy City. — Feelings of Disappointment. — Entered Jaffa Gate. — Hotel. — Severe Illness. — Confinement for Several Days. — Deprivation of Precious Privileges, 248

Letter XIV. The Holy City

Extent of the Topics Involved.— A few Points only Attempted.— The Streets, General Appearance, First Impressions, &c— Houses.— Stone and well Built.— Peculiarity.— Population of Jerusalem.— Probable Amount of.— Character and Condition.— Jews.— Depressed Condition.— Jewish Quarter.— Visit to it.— Sr-ies there.— English Mission CONTENTS, XIII PA»K to the Jews.— Its Foundation and Objects. — Converts.— Jews' Place of Wailing.—Mas sive Masonry. — Ruined Arch. — Lepers' Huts. — Scene of Misery and Woe. — Mohammedan Population. — Their Character. — The Christians in Jerusalem. — Deplorable and Disgraceful Hatred and Dissensions. — Social State and Condition on the Whole.— Hope for the Future, 267

Letter XV. Gethsemane The Mount Of Olives

Necessity of omitting many Things for Want of Room. — A Walk outside of the City. — Via Dolorosa. — Pass out of St. Stephen's Gate. — Scene from this Point. — Descend into the Valley of Jehoshaphat. — Cross the Kedron. — Garden of Gethsemane. — Deep and Solemn Feelings. — Our Lord's Agony. — Thoughts respecting the Last Days of His Passion. — Ascent of the Mount of Olives. — An Incident. — Desolateness of the Scene. — Ruins on the Summit. — The Foot-print in the Rock. — Pilgrim Devotion. — Question as to the Place of our Lord's Ascension. — View Adopted. — Panorama from the Minaret near by. — Musings on the Mount of Olives. — David and his Rebellious Son. — Our Loru Jesus Christ. — Wept over Jerusalem. — His Solemn Words. — Return to the City.— jjTalk with Tommaso. — Sadness of the Scene at Evening. — A Walk around the Walls Outside. — The Citadel, Pool of Gihon, Mount Zion, Valley of Hinnom.— The Pool of Siloam, Fountain of the Virgin. — Some General Remarks in Conclusion. — Striking Natural Features of Jerusalem Anciently. — Question as to the Population it was Capable of Containing.— Probable Result, 286

Letter XVI. Calvary And The Holy Sepulchre

Avowal of Preference for the Opinions of Antiquity.— Bearing on the Questions Proposed. —Is tbe Holy Sepulchre rightly placed by Tradition, or not ?— Description of the Present Church. — Where Situate. — The Court. — The Interior. — Traditionary Localities.— Effect Produced on the Mind. — The Sepulchre. — Present Appearance. — Mount Calvary. — Tombs underneath. — Examination of the Question at Issue. — Scriptural Statement. — What is Certain.— Present Church is within the Walls, Calvary was without.— Difficulty in Consequence.— Topographical Argument.— Josephus's Statements.— Points to be determined.— Tower of Hippicus, where situate.— Position of the Gate Gennath.— Course of the Second Wall.— Akra and the Tyropoeon.— Result of the Examination.— Argument from History and Tradition.— Its Value.— Knowledge, Sentiments, Position, Character, etc., of the first Christians.— Reign of Hadrian— What was done in Jerusalem.— Constantine and the Bishop of Jerusalem.— Recovery of the Holy Sepulchre.— Invention of the Cross.— Basilica of Constantine— Why should we not believe in the Verity of the Holy Sepulchre ?— Evil Characteristics of the Present Age.— Claims of the Early Christians upon our Sympathy and Candor.— Dr. Robinson's Strictures on Macarius and his Clergy censured.— Conclusion.— Passages quoted from Bartlett, Fergusson .■■ud Wilson, CONTENTS.

LETTER XVH. HETHLEHEM AND ITS VICINITY. PAGK Environsof Jerusalem.— Attractions.— Excursion to Bethlehem, Frank Mountain, fee- Prospect from near the City.— Plain of Rephaim — View of a Part of the Dead Sea.— Characteristics of the Hills and Vales seen on our Way.— Illustrations of Holy Scripture. —Musings upon David's Eventful Career.— Picturesque Situation of Bethlehem.— Arrival at the Frank Mountain.— Herodium.— Ascent of the Hill.— View from the Summit — Ruins there— Thence to Solomon's Pools.— Value of Water in the East.— The Pools.— Massive Masonry.— Position.— Route to Bethlehem.— Convent and Church.— Place of the Nativity.— Is the Tradition Reliable ?— The Town.— Reflections upon the History and Events connected with Bethlehem.— Jacob, Rachel, Naomi, Ruth.— The Blessed Virgin, the Holy Child, the Shepherds, the Magi, &c— Rachel's Tomb.— Reach Jerusalem at Sunset.— Extract from Mr. Pratt's Journal, relative to Hebron and its Vicinity, 348 LETTER XVHI.

THE DEAD SEA AND THE JORDAN. t Early Start for the Dead Sea.— Path or Road over the Mount of Olives.— Bethany.— Its Present Position.— Traditionary Sites. — Our Saviour's Divine Compassion.— Fountain of the Apostles. — Contrast. — Gloomy and Cheerless Road. — Character of the Scenery. — Road by Neby Musa. — Our Sheikh and his Men. — Picturesque Costume. — Parable of the Good Samaritan. — Truthfulness and Force. — First View of the Dead Sea. — Reputed Tomb of the Prophet Moses. — Sanctity in the Eyes of the Mohammedans. — An Incident. —Approach to the Dead Sea.— Saltish Plain.— The Water.— Took a Bath in it. — Character ofthe Water.— The Plain or Valley of the Jordan.— Banks of the River.— Bathing-place of the Pilgrims. — Strong Current. — A Bath in the Jordan. — Ride to Jericho. — Wretched Village.— Ain es-SuItan.— Lovely Fountain.— Return to Jerusalem. — The English Church and Services.— Preparations for Departure, ....... 373

LETTER XIX.

JUDEA— SAMARIA — JACOB'S WELL NABULUS. Preparations for Departure. — Leave the City. — Last View of Jerusalem. — Character ofthe Road as we proceed Northwardly. — Ruins by Roadside. — Anathoth. — Er-Ram or Ramah of Benjamin. — Gibeon, Beth-horon, &c. — The Miracle wrought by Joshua. — Beeroth, Place of Encampment. — Pleasantness of the Scene. — Tradition relating to the Virgin and Child. — Next Morning's Experience. — Delays.— Beitin or Bethel. — Hilly Road. — Picturesqueness. — Yebrud. — Mountains of Ephraim. — Khan Lubban. — Shiloh. — Plain of El-Mukhna. — Extent and Fertility. — A Gallop.— Jacob's Well.— Its Touching Interest. — Our Lord and the Woman of Samaria. — Arrival at Nablus. — Adventure. — Were Stoned. — Beauty of the Valley between Mount Gerizim and Mount Ebal. — Musings on the Past. — Visit to the Synagogue of the Samaritans.— Had a Sight of the Pentateuch. — Its Age and Value.— Tischendorff's Opinion. — The Lepers.— Population, Name, &c, of the City) - CONTENTS. XV

LETTER XX. SEBASTE TABOR

— TIBERIAS NAZARETH. PAGE Departure from Nablus.— Lovely Valley between Gerizim and Ebal.— Well-watered.— Lawless Character of the People. — Arrival at Sebaste. — Beautiful Situation on a Conical Hill. — Remains of a Grand Colonnade. — Church of St. John the Baptist.— Difficulty of getting Admission. — Insults offered to Travellers.— Road after leaving Sebaste.— Sanur, a Strong Place naturally. — Reached Jenin. — Story of our Dragoman's Adventure here. — The Town. — The Great Plain of Esdraelon. — Its Fertility, Extent, and Beauty. — Zerin, or Ancient Jezreel. — Solam, or Shunem.— Nain.— Kleber's Battle.— Little Hermon.— Arrival at Mount Tabor.— Make the Ascent.— Ruins on the Summit. — Magnificent View from the Summit.— Question as to the Place of our Lord's Transfiguration.— Reflections on the History and Associations of Tabor.— Leave for Sea of Tiberias. — The Route. — Jebel Hattin.— Tubarieh.— Its present Degraded Condition.— Beauty ofthe Lake. — Our Lord's Frequent Presence here. — Desolation of the Cities and Towns around it. — Departure for Nazareth. — Lubieh. — Kefr Kenna. — Beautiful Situation of Nazareth.— Its Traditionary Localities. — The Mount of Precipitation. — The Panorama from the Summit of the Hill on which Nazareth stands. — Reflections on our Lord's Early Days, and the Years spent in Nazareth, 422

LETTER XXI. MOUNT CARMEL ST.

JEAN d'aCRE TYRE. The Value of the Hospices at Nazareth and other Points in the Holy Land. — Country between Nazareth and Carmel. — Cross the Kishon. — Not Large River. — Haifa. — In Depressed Condition. — Ascent of Mount Carmel. — Two Days Sojourn at the Hospice. — Excellence of the Accommodations. — Brother Clement. — Brief Notice of Giovanni Battista, the Architect and Founder ofthe Present Edifice. — His Labors and Success. — Exploration of the Building. — The Chapel, Library, &.c. — Scriptural Recollections of Carmel.— Departure on the 25th inst.— Cross the Kishon.— Amusing Scene. — The River Belus . — Akka as it now is. — Excursion through the Town. — Mosk of the Butcher Pasha. — Recollections ofthe Past connected with Akka.— Departure. — Ez-Zib.— Plain to the North.— Ras en-Nakura.— Encamp on the Hill.— Ruins of Scandalium. — Promontorium Album.— The " Ladder of Tyre." — Picturesque View. — Ras el-Ain. — Description ofthe Reservoirs from Maundrell. — Approach to Sur or Tyre. — Its Desolate Appearance.— Striking Fulfilment of Prophecy.— Present Condition of the Town. — The Ruins of the Cathedral of Paulinus. — Ichnography ofthe Ancient Church. — Description.— Abstract of the History of Tyre.— The Certainty of Retribution, . . . .450

LETTER XXII. SIDON BEIRUT AND ITS VICINITY.

Uncertainty of our Future Plans.— Route from Sur.— Leontes Flumen.— Adlan or Ornlthoripolis. — St. George's Khan.— Mound and Ruins of Zarephath.— Village of Surafend. —Passed the Night on the Mound.— Scriptural Recollections.— Heavy Rain Storm.— CONTENTS. PACK Cloudy, Damp, Wet Weather.— Columns and Roman Mile-stones. — Syrian Sheep. — Saida as one approaches it. — Its Situation.— Place of rather more Consequence than Tyre.— Excursion through the Town. — Its History. — Vicinity. — Road Northwardly not of much Interest. — Cross the Bostrenus. — Khan Neby Yunas. — The River Tamyras. — Mountains and Villages.— Sandy Cape of Beirut.— Enter it Late in the Afternoon.— Pleasant Envi rons. — What we have been Doing.— The Mission of Americans here for Syria. — Their Press.— Sentiments as to their Course and Probable Success. — Avowal of Opinion on this Point.— Who only can meet with Success among Eastern Christians. — Concluding Remarks on the Holy Land in General. — Hope for the Future.— A Word or Two to the Reader, 473 Appendix, Notes, &c., LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Street and Fountain in Cairo ....

Frontispiece. A Section of the Great Pyramid ..... 43 The " Ibis," our Boat on the Nile . . . . .74 An Arab Village on the Nile . .... 82 Grand Court in the Temple at Medinet Habu, Thebes . .125 Sculpture on the Walls of the Temple of Karnak : " Kingdom of Judah" ........ 147 Figure of Cleopatra ....... 157 Plan of Jerusalem, from Dr. Schultz .... 268 Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives ..... 298 Plan of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre . . . 320 The Town and Hills of Bethlehem . . . . .355 Sketch Map of the Dead Sea, from that of Lieut. Lynch . 385 The Town and Lake of Tiberias ..... 443 The Port of Tyre and Mount Lebanon . . . .467 ichnography of the ancient cathedral at tyre . . .

Letter I

aieyanttrfa. Voyage from Malta.— Arrival.— First Impressions.— Contrasts.— The Modern City.— Glimpses of Oriental Life. — Remnants of the Past. — Pompey's Pillar. — The Obelisks. — Recollections of by-gone Ages. Alexandria, Dec. 18th, 1848. My Dear S., We are at last in the land of Egypt. Our journeyings thus far have been prospered, and we have been brought in safety to a point in our wanderings to which we had looked forward with intense interest. You may recollect that in my last letter I informed you of the arrival of Mr. P. and myself at Valetta, in the island of Malta. We spent about a week there very pleasantly, and not unprofitably, in exam ining the numerous objects of interest which this noted isle contains, and particularly in visiting the inlet or cove on the north-westerly shore, known as St. Paul's Bay, and most firmly believed by the Maltese to be the very locality of the Apostle's shipwreck and preservation.

A portion of our time was occupied in making preparations for Oriental travel, and in procuring various articles which it is needful to get before passing away entirely from European comforts and civilization. Our multifarious arrangements having been effected, and an active Maltese servant secured, we bade adieu to Malta and its hospitalities on the 9th inst., and turned our thoughts and wishes towards Egypt and its mysterious won ders. We embarked in a French government steamer, the Ægyptus, a large and well-furnished vessel, the captain of which spoke English with fluency, and was very attentive to the wants of his passengers. We were favored with beau tiful weather, though rather a rough sea and its usual disa greeable consequences. Among our fellow-voyagers were Ahmed Bey and Ismael Bey, two sons of Ibrahim Pasha, whose recent death had obliged them to leave the military schools in Paris, in order to be present at the settlement of their father's affairs.

They were young men of about twenty and twenty-two years of age; short, and almost squat fig ures, small, inexpressive eyes, and altogether as unintelleotual looking persons as one could well imagine : their costume, too, half French half Turkish, was in the worst possible taste. Certainly this would hardly be worth mentioning, had not Ibrahim Pasha's name led us to expect something at least tolerably respectable ; and their connection with the family of Mohammed Ali induced us to suppose that there might be some sparks of that genius which has given the late Pasha of Egypt a position of no mean importance in history. But there was nothing of the sort in their manners, speech, or personal appearance ; and though I would not deny the possi bility of their possessing abilities of a high order, I am sorry to say that there was not the slightest indication of such being the case in anything which transpired on board the Ægyptus.

Towards evening, on the 13th, we were off our destined port, but, in the judgment of one of the lank-looking Arab pilots who here hold sway, we were too late to enter. Our captain, however, was a spirited fellow, and being intimately acquainted with the navigation of the Mediterranean m general, and the entrance to Alexandria in particular, he FIRST VIEW OF ALEXANDRIA. very coolly left the pilots to their peculiar notions on nautical subjects, and carried the Ægyptus into the harbor without molestation or difficulty, and anchored in his usual place, not far from several other large steamvessels, both English and Turkish. The next morning, our eyes were for the first time greeted with a distant view of what remains of the once great and splendid city founded by the Macedonian conqueror, and rendered renowned by the earlier Ptolemies.

From the water there is not much to strike the attention of the traveller. The pasha's showy but useless men-of-war lying in the harbor, the lofty pharos, the windmills on the neighboring hills, the large white palace and harim, the few minarets in the city, and the singular mixture of European and Egyptian style, if so it may be termed, of the edifices in sight, do not impress one much with either the greatness or attractiveness of Alexandria ; nor indeed does an actual acquaintance with the city, as it now exists, give one a more favorable or pleasing opinion of its real state and condition. On the contrary, I think, whether it be that the imagination becomes too much excited, or whether the policy of Mohammed Ali has been productive of more injury than advantage, it cannot well be denied that the present city, which bears the name of one of this world's mighty heroes, disappoints, annoys, and almost disgusts the traveller.

Such at least is the general impression which some days' residence in Alexandria is apt to produce upon the mind ; an impression which, I am sorry to say, in my own case, nothing that occurred tended materially to alter, notwithstanding the many acts of kindness shown us by individuals who, though Alexandrines, I am proud to call my friends. The scene at landing was unique to a European or Amer ican eye. Hardly had the steamer obtained pratique before we were surrounded by fifty or a hundred boats, containing a motley collection of dark-skinned, turbaned, half-naked, and half-savage looking fellows, each one shouting and gesticulating with all his might, and calling aloud to any one and every one in a medley of tongues, partly in English, a little in French, with a few words of Italian, or German, or some thing else.