Journal of the Discovery of the Source of the Nile ... Second edition

Front matter

Engrailed. ~by S^oZ^er -from. a. Fhotojrapl, ~by SauSuveS Brothers JOURNAL OF THE DISCOVERY OF THE SOURCE OF THE NILE BY JOHN HANNING SPEKE CAPTAIN H. M. INDIAN ARMY FELLOW AND GOLD-MEDALLIST OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY HON. CORR. MEMBER AND GOLD-MEDALLIST OF THE FRENCH GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, ETC. WITH MAP AND PORTRAITS, JIND NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS CHIEFLY EROM DRAWINGS Rr CAPTAIN GRANT SECOND EDITION- WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS EDINBURGH AND LONDON MDCCCLXIV TO THOSE KIND FRIENDS WHO THOUGHT OF US, AND RAISED AN EXPEDITION TO SUCCOUR US, WHEN WE WERE SUPPOSED TO BE IN GREAT DANGER IN THE CENTRE OF AFRICA, THIS WORK IS GRATEFULLY DEDICATED. J. H. SPEKE. Jordaxs, Decemher 1863. PAOE 1 1(5 33 55 84 CONTENTS.

Chapter I. London To Zanzibar

1859. The design — The preparations — Departure — The Cape — The ZiiHi Kafirs — Turtle-turning — Capture of a slaver — Arrive at Zanzibar — Local politics and news since last visit — Organisation of the expedition, .

Chapter II. Uzaramo

The nature of the country — The order of march — The beginning of onr taxation — Sultan Lion's Claw, and Sultan Monkey's Tail — The Kingani — Jealousies and difficulties in the camp — The murderer of M. Maizan, .

Chapter III. Usagara

Nature of the country — Resumption of the march — A hunt — Bombay and Baraka — The slave-hunters — The ivory-merchants — Collection of natural-history specimens — A frightened village — Tracking a mule,

Chapter IV. Ugogo, And The Wilderness Of Mgunda Mkhali

The lie of the country — Rhinoceros-stalking ■ — Scuffle of villagers over a carcass — Chief "Short-legs" and his successor — Buffalo-shooting — Getting lost — A troublesome sultah — Desertions from the camp — Getting plundered — Wilderness march — Diplomatic relations with the local powers — Manua Sera's story — Christmas — The relief from Kaz§, .

Chapter V. Untamuezi

The country and people of U-n-ya-mtigzi — Kaze, the capital — Old Mtisa — The naked Wakidi — The N'yanza, and the question of the river running in or out — The contest between Mohinna and " Short-legs " — Famine — The Arabs and local wars — The sOltana of Unyambewa — UngiMe " the Pig "—Pillage, ...... VI CONTENTS. PAOE 124 174 195 246 2C1

Chapter VI. Uzinza

The politics of Uzinza— The Wahiima— "The Pig's" trick— First taste of Ustii taxation— Pillaged by Mfilmbi— Pillaged by Makaka— Pillaged by LtimSresi— Grant stripped by M'yonga — Stripped again by Rtihe — Terrors and defections in the camp — Driven back to Kaze with new tribulations and impediments, ......

Chapter VII. Usui

Taxation recommenced — A great doctor — Siiwarora pillaging — The Arabs — Conference with an ambassador from Uganda — Disputes in camp — Rivalry of Bombay and Baraka — Departure from the inhospitable districts, .........

Chapter VIII. Karague

Relief from protectors and pillagers — The scenery and geology— Meeting with the friendly king Rtimanika — His hospitalities and attention — His services to the expedition — Philosophical and theological inquiries — The royal family of KaraguS — The Mftlmbiro mountain — Navigation of "the Little Windermere" — The new -moon levee — Rhinoceros and hippopotamus hunting — Measurement of a fattened queen — Political polygamy — Christmas — Rumours of Petherick's expedition — Arrangements to meet it — March to Uganda, ...

Chapter IX. History Op The Wahuma

The Abyssinians and Gallas — Theory of conquest of inferior by superior races— The Wahtima and the kingdom of Kittara — Legendary history of the kingdom of Uganda — Its constitution, and the ceremonials of the court, .........

Chapter X. Karague And Uganda

Escape from protectors — Cross the Kitangtilg, the first affluent of the Nile —Enter Uddii — Uganda — A rich country — Driving away the devil — A conflict in the camp — A pretending prince — Three pages with a diplomatic message from the king of Uganda — Crime in Uganda,

Chapter XI. Palace, Uganda

Preparations for the reception at the court of Mtesa, king of Uganda The ceremonial — African diplomacy and dignity — Feats with the rifle Cruelty, and wastefulness of life — The pages— The queen-dowager of CONTENTS. VII PAGE 285 323 365 405 453 475 Uganda — Her court reception — I negotiate for a palace — Conversations with the king and queen — The queen's grand entertainment — Royal dissipation, .........

Chapter XII. Palace

UGANDA— Continued. Continued diplomatic difficulties — Negro chaffing — The king in a new costume — Adjutant and heron shooting at court— My residence changed — Scenes at court — The Kamraviona, or commander-in-chief — Quarrels — Confidential communications with the king— Court executions and executioners — Another day with the queen, .....

Chapter XIII. Palace

UGANDA— Continued. A visit to a distinguished statesman — A visit from the king — Royal sport — The queen's present of wives — The court beauties and their reverses — Judicial procedure in Uganda — Buffalo-hunting — A musical party — My medical practice — A royal excursion on the N'yanza — The canoes of Uganda — A regatta. — Rifle practice — Domestic difficulties — Interference of a magician — The king's brothers, .....

Chapter XIV. Palace

UGANDA— Continued. Reception of a victorious army at court — Royal sport — A review of the troops —Negotiations for the opening of the road along the Nile — Grant's return — Pillagings — Court marriages — The king's brothers — Divinations and sacrifices— The road granted at last — The preparations for continuing the expedition — The departure, ......

Chapter XV. March Down The Northern Slopes Op Africa

Kari — Tragic incident there — Renewal of troubles — Quarrels with the natives — Reach the Nile — Description of the scene there — Sport — Church Estate — Ascend the river to the junction with the lake — Ripon Falls — General account of the source of the Nile — Descend again to Urondogani — The truculent Sakibobo, .

Chapter XVI. Bahr El Abiad

First voyage on the Nile — The starting — Description of the river and the country— Meet a hostile vessel — A naval engagement — Difficulties and dangers — Judicial procedure — Messages from the king of Uganda — His efforts to get us back — Desertion — The Wanyoro troops — Kamrasi— Elephant-stalking — Diabolical possessions, .... CONTENTS.

Chapter XVII. Unyoro

PAGE Invitation to the palace at last— Journey to it — Bombay's visit to king Kamrasi — Our reputation as cannibals — Reception at court — Acting the physician again — Royal mendicancy, ..... 498

Chapter XVIII

UNYORO— Continued. The ceremonies of the new moon — Kamrasi's rtde and discipline — Au embassy from Uganda, and its results — The rebellious brothers — An African sorcerer and his incantations — The Kamraviona of Unyoro — Burial customs — Ethiopian legends — Complicated diplomacy for our detention — Proposal to send princes to England — We get away, 523

Chapter XIX. The March To Madi

Sail down the Kafti— The navigable Nile — Fishing and sportiDg population — The scenery on the river — An inhospitable governor — Karuma Falls — Native superstitions — Thieveries — Hospitable reception at Koki by Chongi, . . . . . . . . 559

Chapter XX. Madi

Junction of the two hemispheres — The first contact with persons acquainted with European habits — Interruptions and plots — The mysterious Mahamed — Native revelries — The plundering and tyranny of the Turks — The rascalities of the ivory trade — Feeling for the Nile — Taken to see a mark left by a European — Buffalo, eland, and rhinoceros stalking — Meet Baker — Petherick's arrival at Gondokoro, 578 Conclusion, . 609 Appendix — A. Native Establishment of the Expedition, .... 613 List of Men engaged at Zanzibar — theirPay, their Appointments, &c. , 614 List of Men engaged in the Interior, ..... 616 B. List of Property sent forward to KazS, .... 617 List of Property taken with the Expedition, .... 618 C. List of Large Game bagged, ...... 619 D. List of astronomically-fixed Stations, ..... 620 List of Magnetic Variation Results, ..... 622 E. Heights of Stations determined by Observations of Boiling-point of Water between Zanzibar and Gondokoro, .... 623 F. Climate of Victoria N'yanza, ...... 624 G. List of Plants collected by Captain Grant between Zanzibar and Cairo, 625 Note on Captain Grant's CoUection of Plants, by Dr T. Thomson F.R.S '657 ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE Portrait op Captain Speke in Dress worn in Africa, {Frontispiece), . from Photograph by Southivell Brothers 420. Portrait of Captain Grant in Dress worn in Africa, from Photograph by Urquhart, Dingwall 6. Zulu Kapir, Delagoa Bay, Grant 9. Banyan contemplating his Account-Book, . Lieut. Suther 10. Sacd Majid, Sultan op Zanzibar, from Photo, by Col. Plays air 16. Mzaramo, or Native op Uzaramo, Grant 17. Wazaramo, People op Uzaramo, do. 33. Msagara, or Native of Usagara, do. 40. Mkambaku Hill, viewed from Zungomero, . . . Speke 45. Hili View prom Eastern Mbuiga, do. 52. Bugtj, Calabash, or Gouty-limbed Trees, do. 55. Mgogo, or Native of Ugogo, Grant 56. View op East Coast Range from Marenga Mkhali, . Speke 59. Our Camp in Ugogo, Grant 61. New Antelope — Ugogo, .... from Specimen, Wolff 66.

Three Buffalo-Charges in one Day — Mgunda Mkhali, Zwecker, from Sketch by Speke 75. The Tembe, or Mud Village, at Jiwa la Mkoa, . . Speke 83. View in Eastern Unyanyembe, do. 85. Myamuezi, or Native of Unyamuezi, .... Grant 86. Wanyamuezi Ornaments, &c, do. 86. Do. Implements, do. 87. Front View of Musa's Tembe at Kaze, . • . . . do. 102. Sirboko's Slaves carrying Fuel and cutting Rice, Zwecker, from Sketch by do. 115. Unyamuezi Harvest, Grant 117. Ukulima's Village, do. X ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE 125. Mzinza, or Native 'of Uzinza, Grant 138. Grant Dancing with Ukulima, do. 144. Lumeresi's Residence, «"■ 163. Blacksmith's Shop, do- 182. Uthungu Valley, do. 183. Our Camp in the Uthungu Valley— The Wasui bringing Provisions for Sale, . Zwecker, from Sketch by do. 196. One of the Wahuma, Grant 204.

Our Camp Outside the Palace, Karague, Zivecker, from Sketch by do. 212. Musicians — Karague, . . . Zwecker, from Sketch by do. 214. View op Mount Mfumbiro, and Drainage System op the Lunæ Montes, Speke 223. Nzoe Antelopes — Little Windermere, Karague, Wolff, from Sketch by do. 224. The King's New Moon Levee, Grant 229. Presenting my Hunting Spoils to Rumanika, Zwecker, from Sketches by Speke <b Grant 253. Waganda War-Instruments, Grant 263. Ferry on the Kitangule River, do. 266. Baraza and Residence op King Kamrasi's Uncle — Ngambezi, do. 276. Waganda Brewing Pombe, do. 283. View op King Mtesa's Palace from my Hut — Uganda, do. 286. Mganda, or Native of Uganda, do. 292. King of Uganda Retiring, do. 307. Kambari Fish, Speke 359. A Queen dragged to Execution — Uganda, . . . Grant 390. View op the Murchison Creek, do. 391.

Uganda Boat, Speke 401. Captain Grant leaving Karague, Grant 415. King of Uganda Reviewing Colonel Congo's Regiment, Zwecker, from Sketch by Speke 421. King Mtesa holding a Levee, Zwecker, from Sketch by Grant 424. Speke introduces Grant to the Queen-Dowager of Uganda, Grant 433. Palace Guards at Dinner — Uganda, ■ ... do. 442. Waganda Officers drinking Pombe, ■ ... do. 462. Goatsucker (Cosmetornis Spekii), . . from Specimen, Wolff The Ripon Falls — the Nile flowing out of Victoria N'yanza, Speke 466. 471. Nsamma Antelope— Uganda, . . Wolff, from Sketch by do. 494. The Elephants' Charge, . . Zwecker, from Sketch by do. ILLUSTRATIONS. XI PAGE 499. King Kamrasi's Palace from my Hut — Unyoro, . . Grant 533. Speke's Men killing a Cow, Kamrasi's Officers, Magician, and Dwarf looking on, Zwecker, from Sketch by Grant 546.

Kamrasi's First Lesson in the Bible, .... Grant 550. Kimenya the Dwarf, do. 566. Group of Kidi Men on a Visit to King Kamrasi, . do. 568. The Karuma Falls — Kidi, do. 574. Group of Gani Men, do. 581. Turks' Wives and Children, do. 588. Removing a Village — Madi, do. 589. Tying up Ivories por the March, do. 590. Mahamed's Party on the March, do. 592. The Nile and Jbl Kuku, do. 602. Mission-House, Gondokoro, . ... . . . do. 609. The Nile below Junction op the Asua River, . . do. 611. Speke's " Faithfuls," . . from Photograph by Royer of Cairo 612. Women of the Expedition, from Photograph by do. Map of Eastern Equatorial Africa {in Pocket at end of the Volume), Speke

Introduction

. In the following pages I have endeavoured to describe all that appeared to me most important and interesting among the events and the scenes that came under my notice during my sojourn in the interior of Africa. If my account should not entirely harmonise with preconceived notions as to primitive races, I cannot help it. I profess accurately to describe naked Africa — Africa in those places where it has not received the slightest impulse, whether for good or for evil, from European civilisation. If the picture be a dark one, we should, when contemplat ing these sons of Noah, try and carry our mind back to that time when our poor elder brother Ham was cursed by his father, and condemned to be the slave of both Shem and Japheth ; for as they were then, so they appear to be now — a strikingly existing proof of the Holy Scriptures.

But one thing must be remembered : Whilst the people of Europe and Asia were blessed by communion with God through the medium of His prophets, and obtained divine laws to regulate their ways and keep them in mind of Him who made them, the Africans were ex cluded from this dispensation, and consequently have no idea of an overruling Providence or a future state ; they therefore trust to luck and to charms, and think only of self-preservation in this world. Whatever, then,

INTRODUCTION.

. XIV may be said against them for being too avaricious or too destitute of fellow-feeling, should rather reflect on our selves, who have been so much better favoured, yet have neglected to teach them, than on those who, whilst they are sinning, know not what they are doing. To say a negro is incapable of instruction, is a mere absurdity ; for those few boys who have been educated in our schools have proved themselves even quicker than our own at learning; whilst, amongst themselves, the deepness of their cunning and their power of repartee are quite surprising, and are especially shown in their proficiency for telling lies most appropriately in preference to truth, and with an off-handed manner that makes them most amusing. With these remarks, I now give, as an appropriate introduction to my narrative — (1.)

An account of the general geographical features of the countries we are about to travel in, leaving the details to be treated under each as we successively pass through them ; (2.) A general view of the atmospheric agents which wear down and so continually help to reduce the continent, yet at the same time assist to clothe it with vegetation ; (3.) A general view of the Flora ; and, lastly, that which con sumes it, (4.) Its Fauna ; ending with a few special remarks on the Wangtiana, or men freed from slavery. ■ GEOGRAPHY. The continent of Africa is something like a dish turned upside down, having a high and flat central plateau, with a higher rim of hills surrounding it ; from below which, exterially, it suddenly slopes down to the flat strip of land bordering on the sea. A dish, however, is generally uniform in shape — Africa is not. For instance, we find in its centre a high group of hills surrounding the head of the Tanganyika Lake, composed chiefly of argillaceous

INTRODUCTION.

. XV sandstones, which I suppose to be the Lunæ Montes of Ptolemy, or the Soma Giri of the ancient Hindus. Fur ther, instead of a rim at the northern end, the country shelves down from the equator to the Mediterranean Sea ; and on the general surface of the interior plateau there are basins full of water (lakes), from which, when rains over flow them, rivers are formed, that, cutting through the flanking rim of hills, find their way to the sea. ATMOSPHERIC AGENTS. On the east coast, near Zanzibar, we find the rains following the track of the sun, and lasting not more than forty days on any part that the sun crosses ; whilst the winds blow from south-west or north-east, towards the regions heated by its vertical position. But in the centre of the continent, within 5° of the equator, we find the rains much more lasting.

For instance, at 5° south lati tude, for the whole six months tha^t the sun is in the south, rain continues to fall, and I have heard that the same takes place at 5° north ; whilst on the equator, or rather a trifle to northward of it, it rains more or less the whole year round, but most at the equinoxes, as shown in the table on the following page. The winds, though some what less steady, are still very determinable. With an easterly tending, they deflect north and south, following the sun. In the drier season they blow so cold that the sun's heat is not distressing ; and in consequence of this, and the average altitude of the plateau, which is 3000 feet, the general temperature of the atmosphere is very pleasant, as I found from experience ; for I walked every inch of the journey dressed in thick woollen clothes, and slept every night between blankets.* * See climate for one year bordering on the Victoria N'yanza, deduced from the observations of Captain Grant by Francis Galton, F.R.S., in Appendix.

INTRODUCTION, XVI The Number op Days on which Rain fell (more or less) during the March of the East African Expedition from Zanzibar to Gondokoro. The equator was crossed on the 8th February 1802. FLORA. From what has been said regarding the condition of the atmosphere, it may readily be imagined that Africa, in those parts, after all, is not so bad as people supposed it was ; for, when so much moisture falls under a vertical sun, all vegetable life must grow up almost spontaneously. It does so on the equator in the most profuse manner ; but down at 5° south, where there are six months' drought, the case is somewhat different ; and the people would be subject to famines if they did not take advantage of their rainy season to lay in sufficient stores for the fine : and here we touch on the misfortune of the country ; for the negro is too lazy to do so effectively, owing chiefly, as we shall see presently, to want of a strong protecting government.

One substantial fact has been established, owing to our having crossed over ten degrees of latitude in the centre of the continent, or from 5° south to 5° north latitude, which is this : There exists a regular gradation of fertility, surprisingly rich on the equator, but decreasing systematically from it ; and the reason 1860. Days on which rain fell. 1861. Days on which rain fell. 1862. Days on which rain fell. January February March April May June July August September October November December 19 21 17 17 3 0 1 1 9 11 17 16 January February* March April May June July August September October November December 14 12 21 27 21 i 20 ■22 20 18 27 20 c October November December 2 0

INTRODUCTION.

. XVII why this great fertile zone is confined to the equatorial regions, is the same as that which has constituted it the great focus of water or lake supply, whence issue the principal rivers of Africa. On the equator lie the rain bearing influences of the Mountains of the Moon. The equatorial line is, in fact, the centre of atmospheric motion.* FAUNA. In treating of this branch of natural history, we will first take man — the true curly-head, flab-nosed, pouch mouthed negro — not the Wahtima. t They are well dis tributed all over these latitudes, but are not found anywhere in dense communities. Their system of government is mostly of the patriarchal character. Some are pastorals, but most are agriculturists ; and this difference, I believe, originates solely from want of a stable govern ment, to enable them to reap what they produce ; for where the negro can save his cattle, which is his wealth, by eating grain, he will do it.

In the same way, as all animals, whether wild or tame, require a guide to lead their flocks, so do the negroes find it necessary to have chiefs over their villages and little communities, who are their referees on all domestic or political questions. They have both their district and their village chiefs, but, in the countries we are about to travel over, no kings such as we shall find that the Wahtima have. The district chief is absolute, though guided in great measure by his "grey -beards," who constantly attend his residence, and talk over their affairs of state. These commonly con cern petty internal matters ; for they are too selfish and too narrow-minded to care for anything but their own * Captain Grant's collection of the flora of Africa will be found in Appendix. t The Wahtima are treated of in Chapter IX.

INTRODUCTION.

. XVIII private concerns. The grey-beards circulate the orders of the chief amongst the village chiefs, who are fined when they do not comply with them ; and hence all orders are pretty well obeyed. One thing only tends to disorganise the country, and that is war, caused, in the first instance, by polygamy, producing a family of half-brothers, who, all aspiring to succeed their father, fight continually with one another, and make their chief aim slaves and cattle ; whilst, in the second instance, slavery keeps them ever fighting and reducing1 their numbers. The government revenues are levied, on a very small scale, exclusively for the benefit of the chief and his grey-beards. For instance, as a sort of land-tax, the chief has a right to drink free from the village brews of pombe" (a kind of beer made by fer mentation), which are made in turn by all the villagers successively.

In case of an elephant being killed, he also takes a share of the meat, and claims one of its tusks as his right ; further, all leopard, lion, or zebra skins are his by right. On merchandise brought into the country by traders, he has a general right to make any exactions he thinks he has the power of enforcing, without any regard to justice or a regulated tariff. This right is called Hongo, in the plural Mahongo. Another source of revenue is in the effects of all people condemned for sorcery, who are either burnt, or speared and cast into the jungles, and their property seized by the grey -beards for their chief. As to punishments, all irreclaimable thieves or murderers are killed and disposed of in the same manner as these sorcerers ; whilst on minor thieves a penalty equivalent to the extent of the depredation is levied.

Illicit intercourse being treated as petty larceny, a value is fixed according to the value of the woman — for it must be remembered all women are property. Indeed, marriages are considered a very profitable speculation, the girl's hand being in the

INTRODUCTION.

. XIX father's gift, who marries her to any one who will pay her price. This arrangement, however, is not considered a simple matter of buying and selling, but delights in the high-sounding title of " dowry." Slaves, cows, goats, fowls, brass wire, or beads, are the usual things given for this species of dowry. The marriage-knot, however, is never irretrievably tied ; for if the wife finds a defect in her husband, she can return to her father by refunding the dowry ; whilst the husband, if he objects to his wife, can claim half-price on sending her home again, which is con sidered fair, because as a second-hand article her future value would be diminished by half. By this system, it must be observed, polygamy is a source of wealth, since a man's means are measured by the number of his progeny ; but it has other advantages besides the dowry, for the women work more than the men do, both in and out of doors ; and, in addition to the females, the sons work for the household until they marry, and in after life take care of their parents in the same way as in the first instance the parents took care of them.

Twins are usually hailed with delight, because they swell the power of the family, though in some in stances they are put to death. Albinos are valued, though their colour is not admired. If death occurs in a natural manner, the body is usually either buried in the village or outside. A large portion of the negro races affect nudity, despising clothing as effem inate ; but these are chiefly the more boisterous, roving pastorals, who are too lazy either to grow cotton or strip the trees of their bark. Their young women go naked ; but the mothers suspend a little tad both be fore and behind. As the hair of the negro will not grow long, a barber might be dispensed with, were it not that they delight in odd fashions, and are therefore con tinually either shaving it off altogether, or else fashion ing it after the most whimsical designs. No people in XX

INTRODUCTION.

. the world are so proud and headstrong as the negroes, whether they be pastoral or agriculturists. With them, as with the rest of the world, " famfliarity breeds con tempt;" hospitality lives only one day; for though proud of a rich or white visitor — and they implore him to stop, that they may keep feeding their eyes on his curiosities — they seldom give more than a cow or a goat, though professing to supply a whole camp with provi sions. Taking the negroes as a whole, one does not find very marked or much difference in them. Each tribe has its characteristics, it is true. For instance, one cuts his teeth or tattoos his face in a different manner from the others ; but by the constant intermarriage with slaves, much of this effect is lost, and it is further lost sight of owing to the prevalence of migrations caused by wars and the division of governments.

As with the tribal marks so with their weapons ; those most commonly in use are the spear, assage-, shield, bow and arrow. It is true some affect one, some the other ; but in no way do we see that the courage of tribes can be determined by the use of any particular weapon : for the bravest use the arrow, which is the more dreaded ; whflst the weakest confine them selves to the spear. Lines of traffic are the worst tracks (there are no roads in the districts here referred to) for a traveller to go upon, not only because the hospitality of the people has been damped by frequent communication with travellers, but, by intercourse with the serhi-civdised merchant, their natural honour and honesty are corrupted, their cupidity is increased, and the show of firearms ceases to frighten them. Of paramount consideration is the power held by the magician (Mganga), who rules the minds of the kings as did the old popes of Europe. They, indeed, are a curse to the traveller ; for if it suits their inclinations to keep him out of the country, they have merely to prognosticate all

INTRODUCTION.

. XXI sorts of calamities — as droughts, famines, or wars — in the event of his setting eyes on the soil, and the chiefs, people, and all, would believe them ; for, as may be imagined, with men unenlightened, supernatural and imaginary pre dictions work with more force than substantial reasons. Their implement of divination, simple as it may appear, is a cow's or antelope's horn (Uganga), which they stuff with magic powder, also called Uganga. Stuck into the ground in front of the vdlage, it is supposed to have sufficient power to ward off the attacks of an enemy. By simply holding it in the hand, the magician pretends he can discover anything that has been stolen or lost ; and instances have been told of its dragging four men after it with irresistible impetus up to a thief, when it be laboured the culprit and drove him out of his senses.

So imbued are the natives' minds with belief in the power of charms, that they pay the magician for sticks, stones, or mud, which he has doctored for them. They believe certain flowers held in the hand will conduct them to anything lost ; as also that the voice of certain wild animals, birds, or beasts, wdl insure them good-luck, or warn them of danger. With the utmost complacency our sable brother budds a dwarf hut in his fields, and places some grain on it to propitiate the evfl spirit, and suffer him to reap the fruits of his labour, and this too they call their Uganga or church. These are a few of the more innocent alternatives the poor negroes resort to in place of a " Saviour." They have also many other and more horrible devices. For instance, in times of tribulation, the magician, if he ascertains a war is projected by inspecting the blood and bones of a fowl which he has flayed for that purpose, flays a young chfld, and, having laid it lengthwise on a path, directs all the warriors, on proceeding to battle, to step over his sacrifice and insure themselves victory. Another of these extra barbarous devices takes place when a chief wishes

INTRODUCTION.

. to make war on his neighbour, by his calling in a magician to discover a propitious time for commencing. The doctor places a large earthen vessel, half full of water, over a fire, and over its mouth a grating of sticks, whereon he lays a small chdd and a fowl side by side, and covers them over with a second large earthen vessel, just like the first, only inverted, to keep the steam in, when he sets fire below, cooks for a certain period of time, and then looks to see if his victims are still living or dead — when, should they be dead, the war must be deferred, but, otherwise, commenced at once. These extremes, however, are not often resorted to, for the natives are usually content with simpler means, such as flaying a goat, instead of a chdd, to be walked over ; whde, to prevent any evil approaching their dwellings, a squashed frog, or any other such absurdity, when placed on the track, is considered a specific.