The Craven and North-West Yorkshire Highlands. Being a complete account of the history, scenery, and antiquities of that ... district. ... Illustrated

Preface

. N Cox's Magna Britannia, published in 1731, the material for wliich, says the title page, was " collected and composed by an impartial Hand," there is the following rather astonishing notice of our district. " A small part of this Hundred so-called [Craven] from the Cragginess of it, in the midst of which stands Skipton, a Market-Town, from thence called Skipton-in-Craven. The exact extent of it we nowhere find, though we meet with several Towns in it ; but since we observe that the Rise of the River Are is in Craven, and that the Earl of Albemarle's Lands in Craven were in length Five Miles, we conclude that this part of the County extended from the Bounds of the Wapentake of Claro to the village of Manlam, not far from Settle, and had a proportionable Breadth." Such was the curiously indefinite manner in which this " impartial hand " was constrained to improve the public mind on the topography of Craven little more than a century and a half ago !

A description of the least known parts of Africa or Siberia could hardly have been more vague. Still, if we except a few discursive references by some other early writers, this was practically the sum and extent of public knowledge on this romantic corner of Yorkshire until the Rev. Thomas Dunham Whitaker, LL.D., F.S.A., minister of the chapel of Holme, near Whalley, set about the preparation of a History of Craven at the close of the same (last) century. His investigations, which were purely genealogical and historical, resulted in a large and costly volume, which was completed and published in 1805, and is now in the 3rd edition. Meanwhile no separate and less expensive treatise upon this highly interesting area has appeared, beyond two or three small local guide books. That some such intermediate work, dealing not only with historical subjects, but with every aspect of the country, would be useful and acceptable has long seemed likely to the present writer.

A long and close familiarity with the district, — the home of his ancestors for many centuries,— has therefore tempted him to produce a book, which will be found in great measure to supplement the writings of Whitaker, while at the same time an effort has been made to furnish in a chatty and entertaining manner, an account of everything of interest relating to the scenery, physical history, and antiquities of the area comprised. With respect to prehistoric remains, although much has been written about the cairns, barrows, earthworks, and cave-explorations in the district, yet the author is only too conscious how much remains to be done in this branch, and what investigations have yet to be made in order to arrive at the full historic value, as well as the consequent influences of the occupation of the country by Celt, Roman, Saxon, and* Dane.

So far as the scenic and physical aspects of the area are concerned, the author believes this to be the first time in any topographical work that an attempt has been made to deal with these and the civil and ecclesiastical history simultaneously, by tracing upwards the origin of a place, scientifically and historically, and recording as much as can be gathered about it, within reasonable limits. The natural phenomena of every important scene are explained as simply and concisely as possible, while a very complete notice of the numerous caverns and pot-holes, or ground-chasms, is given, as may be ascertained on turning to the index (under " Caves ") at the end of the volume. A more or less extended account has been given of the Craven and bordering parishes, while the histories of such places as Bentham, Ingleton, Horton-in-Ribblesdale, and Dent, which are but slightly touched on by Whitaker, have been dealt with at length.

A reference to the Summary of Chapters, in conjunction with the Map, will show the topographical direction and method of the two divisions of the work. Commencing with Giggleswick and Settle, the first part includes all the country extending westwards by Clapham, Bentham, and Ingleton, to Kirkby Lonsdale ; the second part begins with Skipton, and traces the country northwards to Langstrothdale and Yore Head, and westwards to Dent and Sedbergh, concluding with the environs of Sedbergh southwards to Kirkby Lonsdale, where the first part terminates. The lower, and less romantic division of Craven, lying chiefly to the south of the Craven Fault, has not been taken up. It may be noted that the term Highlands, (which the writer is not aware has ever previously been used to describe the mountainous parts of Yorkshire), has been adopted in the title of the work, as it appears both suitably and briefly descriptive of the character of the country embraced, in contradistinction to the lower and less prominent parts of the Deanery of Craven, south of the great Fault, above mentioned.

Almost every nook and corner of the district, it may again be observed, has been familiar to the author from his earliest years, yet in spite of this — a mere geographical acquaintance after all — very considerable research and enquiry have been involved in portraying and supplementing the historical associations of the places. So much so, indeed, that the author regrets exceedingly the impossibility of making here more than a general and grateful recognition of the valuable assistance wliich he has received from numerous residents in the dales, both rendered to him personally on the spot, and by material and facts furnished to him afterwards. During the actual writing of the book many hundreds of letters have been received, aud there is scarcely a village or a hamlet in the area dealt with where he is not indebted to one or other of its inhabitants for information courteously supplied.

On such occasions in the work where the opportunity has offered acknowledgment of this help has been made. For photographs and other views from which the engravings have been taken, as well as for the loan of several blocks, the author begs to express his indebtedness as follows : To Mr. A. Horner, Settle, for photographs of Giggleswick (p. 67), Catterick Force (p. 95), Settle from the West (p. 97), Entrance to the Victoria Cave (p. 120), Clapham (p. 1*45), Gaping Gill Hole (p. 159), Norber Boulder (p. 170), Otterburn (p. 308), Long Preston Church (p. 369), Penyghent from Horton Station, (p. 391), and Ling Gill (p. 405) ; to Thomas Brayshaw, Esq., Settle., for blocks of Settle in 1822 (p. 82), and Celtic Wall, near Smearside (p. 109) ; to Mr. E. Handby, Settle, for photograph of Giggleswick Scars (p. 101) ; to Robert D. Barnish, Esq., Blackburn, for photograph of Stainforth Force (p. 135) ; to the Rev. F. W. Joy, M.A., F.S.A., Bentham Rectory, for photographs of Bentham (p. 186) and Bentham Church Font (p. 193) ; to Bryan Charles Waller, Esq., Masongill, for photograph of Over Hall (p. 269) ; to Mr. R. L. Simpson, Kirkby Lonsdale, for photographs of Devil's Bridge (p. 274), the Lune in Flood at Devil's Bridge (p. 275), and Underley Hall (p. 289) ; to Mr. Lister, Malham, for photographs of Malham Tarn (p. 293), Skirethorns Cave (p. 319), and Bordley Hall (p. 322) ; to the Rev. C. J. Marsden, M.A., Gargrave Vicarage, for block of Gargrave Church ; to Mr. J. B. Smithson, Leyburn, for photographs of Kilnsey Crag (p. 330), Kettlewell (p. 333), and Hubberholme Church (p. 340) ; to the Rev. A. Cross, M.A., Giggleswick School, for drawing of plan of Rathmell Barrows (p. 379) ; to George Swift, Esq., B.A., Dent, for photographs of Dent (p. 424), and Ibby Peril (p. 423).

The views of Hardraw Scar (p. 414), Garsdale (p. 419), and On the Rawthey, Sedbergh (p. 438), are from photographs by Messrs. Frith. Many of these views represent out-of the-way places, and scenes but little known or not previously taken, and the author is particularly indebted to those gentlemen who have been at the trouble of obtaining the views specially for the work. The superior and very beautiful full-page Frontispiece to the Large Paper edition has been engraved by Messrs. Annan and Swan, London, from an original photograph supplied by Mr. A. Horner, of Settle. The author, in conclusion, may refer to the fact that as the work has been published by subscription, he has pleasure in acknowledging the liberal and influential support received from upwards of five hundred subscribers, who have thus aided him in its publication.

The names of the subscribers have been printed at the end of the volume. CONTENTS. Preface ... ... ... ... ... ... 3 Contents ... ... ... ... ... ... 7 Summary of Chapters ... ... ... ... ... 8 List of Illustrations ... ... ... ... ... 18 Population Table ... ... ... ... ... 20 Population and Inn Licenses in Craven ... ... 21 Heights of Mountains ... ... ... ... ... 22 Heights of Roads and Passes ... ... ... ... 23 Heights of Towns, Villages and Hamlets ... ... 24 Rainfall in North-west Yorkshire, &c. ... ... 25 Craven Militia during the French Wars ... ... 26 Landholders in a.d. 1086 ... ... ... ... 27 A List of the Inhabitants of Craven, and Bordering Districts, Five Centuries Ago ... ... ... 29 A List of Craven Men, who fought at Flodden Field, a.d. 1513 ... ... ... ... 61 Subscription List ... ... ••• ... ••• 451 Index of Surnames ... ... •.. -•• •■• 462 General Index ... ■•■ •■• ... •■• SUMMARY OF CHAPTERS. Part I. — Western Division.

Chapter I

, Giggleswick 67 Introduction — Character of Craven and the North-Western Dales — Land of mountain and cataract — A paradise of wild flowers and ferns — History and Antiquities — Hotel and house accommodation — Craven diet — Longevity — Unrivalled Air-Cures — Comparison with the Black Forest and Switzerland — Giggleswick — An old British town — Domesday — Author's correspondence with Continental authorities — A reference to German charters of the 8th century, shewing the origin and meaning of Giggleswick — The lost Tarn Ebbing and Flowing Well — Other English "tidal" wells — The British canoe — First mention of the church — Some early charters — Old families — Archdeacon Paley — Amusing Anecdotes — Recent discoveries in the church — " Strainge Parsons " — Account of the Market Cross — The Grammar School — The Museum and its contents.

CHAPTER IL

, Settle 81 Old Settle — The post-town of the parish — Unique sun-dial — Castleberg and its watch-tower— Charter of market — Visits of old topographers — Coiners and filers — Craven Bank— Mediæval aspects of Settle — Saxon medal found within the market-cross — The church — Old inns — Trade-tokens — Settle during the Civil Wars -Letter from General Lambert — The "Folly" — Proctor, the sculptor — Some men of note — Longevity at Settle — Quality of the land — Rainfall — Snow Castle — Modern institutions — Farms and gardens — Statistics of trade.

Chapter III

, Giggleswick, Stackhouse, Locks 95 Giggleswick — The Mid Craven Fault — Plague Stone — Bell Hill and Pagan Fires — Settle Bridge and Penyghent— Stackhouse — Lovely Residence — Brayshaw and Carr Families — Locks— Return Walk.

Chapter IV

, Giggleswick Scars 100 Giggleswick Scars — The Tarn — Ancient Canoe — Staircase and Dangerous Caves — Ebbing and Flowing Well — Its construction and action explained — A laughable incident — An old custom—A legend of the Well — Miraculous appearance of a lake — Feizor — Its curious name — Clapham family — Splendid echoes — Scar top — The Schoolboys' Tower.

Chapter V

, Around Smearside 107 An archæological ramble — Ancient barrow with skeleton — Dead Man's Cave — Remains of Celtic Walls— Smearside— Splendid prospect — Roman Watch-tower — Boman Camp — Ice-travelled stones.

Chapter VI

, Langcliffe. Catterick Glen 113 A trip to Catterick— Langcliffe Hall — The Dawsons — Memorials of Sir Isaac Newton — Langcliffe Village — Its former site — The Naked Woman Inn — Winskill — "Lang Tom," the poet — The open Moor — Catterick Force and Glen — Lovely Scenery.

CHAPTER VIL

, All about the Victoria Cave 118 Up in the hills again — " Samson's Toe " — The Scars and their primitive inhabitants All about the Victoria Cave — Its treasures and what they tell — Its curious discovery and history of the exploration — Night incident — A hyæna den — Pre-glacial remains — Sketch of mammoth by pre-glacial man — Age of deposits — Other local caves and discoveries — Attermire. not the outer water — Its meaning explained — Historic deductions — Old lake — Rare plants— The cave and its remains — Occupation of caves during recent war-panics — Roman Camp at High Hill — Scaleber Force.

CHAPTER VIIL

, Up Ribblesdale from Settle 128 Up the Ribble — The Settle and Carlisle raihvay — Some interesting features of its construction — Particulars of viaducts and tunnels — Enormous difficulties- Longest tunnels in England — Winskill Rock — Tremendous blast — Stainforth — Its former importance— The old Knights of Stainforth — A horse's skull found buried in Giggleswick church — Early property transactions — Stainforth Force — A wild walk — The oldest rocks in Yorkshire — Scientific aspects of the scenery — Glacial drift and boulders— Some remarkable examples.

CHAPTER IX.

, Lawkland and the Scar Caves 138 A lovely walk — Lanes of wild flowers — Lawkland — The Old Hall of the Inglebys — The smallest church in Yorkshire — Cross Streets and the Roman highway — Buckhaw Brow — Kelcowe Cave — Buckhaw Brow Cave — Cave Ha', an old bear den — Interesting discoveries — Austwick Beck — A story of the coaching days.

CHAPTER X.

, Clapham 145 Charming Clapham— Former aspects — Flying Horse Shoe Hotel— Its meaning explained — Ancient state of the manor — Old families — The Church and Market Cross — Old Manor House— Sir Michael Faraday, son of a Clapham blacksmith — Ingleborough Hall — Romantic cascades— Old coaching days.

CHAPTER XL

, Ingleborough Cave and Gaping Gill ... 153 Clapdale Castle— The Ingleborough Cave— Its discovery and history— Description of the interior — Age of the stalactites — Floods in the cave — Extent of the Excavations — Measurements — Clapdale Pass and Cave — Trow Gill — An extinct waterfall — Gaping Gill — Flood scene — Descent of the Gill — A wild prospect — Ascent of Ingleborough.

CHAPTER XII.

, Austwick. The Norber Boulders 161 Walk to Austwick — Peculiar examples of "glaciation" — Former importance cf Austwick — Old landed families — Austwick Hall — The Church, Cross, &c. — Some strange tales — Wild flowers — The Holly Fern here yet — Seventy kinds of ferns collected — The famous Norber boulders — Their history and wonderful aspects described — Nature's oldest cathedral — Effects of the Ice Age — Ancient dried-up lakes — Robin Procter's Scar — Lovely view.

CHAPTER XIII.

, Cave Hunting on Ingleborough 173 A land of caves, gulfs, and swallow-holes — Their origin and aspects scientifically explained — Cave hunting on Ingleborough — A wild tramp — Long Kin holes and cave — Marble Pot — Juniper Gulf — Simon Fell Caves — Alum Pot — Ascent of Simon Fell — The Druids — An ancient forest — Local place names.

CHAPTER XIV.

, Clapham to Ingleton 17S The old road from Clapham to Ingleton — Newby and Furness Abbey — Local properties of the Abbey— Deer park at Ribblehead — Newby Cote — Ascent of the Scars — Caves and pot-holes — A tremendous abyss— The Craven Fault; — Rantry Hole — Cold Cotes— The Tow Scar Fault— High Leys and Holly Plat House— Glorious prospect— Yarlsber and the Danish Camp — Ease Gill Glen and Waterfall — Beautiful scenery, geologically explained.

CHAPTER XV.

, Over the Moors to Bentham 183 Walks between Clapham and Bentham — Newby Moor — Bolland Moor — Mewith Head— Clapham Wood Hall and the Faradays— The Glasites — Keasden — Lumb- Falls— Queen of Fairies Chair— A tramp over Burn Moor — Four Stones, &c.

CHAPTER XVI.

, Bentham 185 Bentham — Roman and Saxon remains — The church in Domesday — Ancient families — History of the manor - Gibson's Green and Dr. John Gibson — Curious will — Stones fired by the Scots — A model church — Some rare relics — Fine old bell — A watch-tower in the Wars of the Roses — Bentham Registers — Burial in woollen — List of Rectors — Public institutions — Old Grammar School — Fox, the Quaker, at Bentham — Trade tokens— Ancient market-cross — The Black Hole — "Tweed Dobbie " and Barguest — Beautiful scenery — Four Stones — Waterscale Wood and Cave.

CHAPTER XVII.

, Walks about Bentham 201 Bentham Plague Stone — Mortality from the Plague — Interesting Justice's Warrant to keep " watche and warde " on the roads — Cessation of the Parish Registers in 1665 — Bentham Bridge — Three days in the Wenning — Wonderful instance of re-animation — A walk into the next county — Robert Hall and Catherine Parr — Lovely scenery — Wennington — Waterscale.

CHAPTER XVIII.

, Ingleton 205 History of Ingleton — Another Ingleton — Both held by the house of Neville — What does Ingleton mean? — Celt and Roman— The Danish Conquest— The Scandinavian Inglingians — Camp at Yarlsber — Ancient local fire customs— Ingleton in Domesday — " White " towns — Ingleton in a.d. 1290 — Story of the Manor — Mediæval tenant rights— Customs in Elizabethan times — Ingleton Hall and the Lowthers — Residence of a Lord High Chancellor — The poet Gray at Ingleton — Twisleton and Ellerbeck disputes — The church — Old houses — Local worthies.

CHAPTER XIX.

, Scientific Aspects of the Ingleton Scenery 216 Causes of the scenery about Ingleton — The various rock formations — The Ingleton Coalfield — The great Craven Fault — Sub-divisions of the Fault — Their several directions explained — Immensity of the downthrow— Analysis of the Ingleton Faults — The age of the Craven Fault — Igneous Dykes — Effects of the Ice Age at Ingleton— Glacial drift and boulders — An extraordinary fragment— Ancient lake — Examples of ice-borne boulders.

CHAPTER XX.

, The Ingleton Glens and Waterfalls ... 223 Gray, Southey, " Barry Cornwall," and Adelaide Anne Procter at Ingleton — Turner, the painter, at Weathercote Cave, &c. — Recent " discovery " of the Ingleton glens — Formation of an Improvement Committee — Confusion in local nomenclature — Place-names explained — The glens and scenery described- Rare plants— Beautiful views— Scientific peculiarities of Thornton Force- Raven Ray— An ancient lake— Keld Head- Beasley Glen- Geological aspects — Backstone Gill Gorge— Glorious prospect— Silurian Slate quarries— Return to Ingleton.

CHAPTER XXL

, Ingleborough : Its Origin, History, and Scenery 233 Up Ingleborough — Its extent and character — The oldest mountain in Yorkshire — Comparison with Snowdon— Physical structure explained— Sectional details Botanical aspects— List of native flowers and ferns— The creeping things — Advent of Man — Ancient beacon — Celtic huts on the summit — Roman. occupation of Ingleborough— Analysis of the prospect—" Jubilee " fires.

CHAPTER XXII.

, In Chapel-le-Dale 243 A remarkable dale— A Yorkshire Wonderland — Storrs Caves— Erratic Boulders — Ingleton " granite "—God's Bridge— The capital of Ingleton Fells -Interesting little chapel— Hurtle and Gingle Pots— Weathercote Cave— Turner and Westall —Douk Caves— Barefoot Wives' Hole— Mere Gill— Tatham Wife Hole— Up Whernside— Extraordinary caverns — Gatekirk. Bruntscar, Homeshaw, and Ivescar Caves— Scar Fall— Irruptions of the Scots— Discovery of coins — Rare plants— The Ice Age in Yorkshire — Stone circle— Sepulchral cairns.

CHAPTER XXIIL

, Through Kingsdale to Dent 257 Character of Kingsdale — Danish occupation — Keld Head — Braida Garth — Greygarth Boulders — Various Pot-Holes — Rowten Cave ; a tremendous chasm — Other" Pots" — Yordas Cave -Braida Garth " Pots "— Pre-historic cairn — Kingsdale Head — Grand view — The Dent Fault, and glacial evidence.

CHAPTER XXIV.

, Between Ingleton and Kirkby Lonsdale 264 Thornton-in-Lonsdale— Site of the village — The church — Ancient burial custom — Masongill and the Wallers — Edmund Waller, the Court poet — " Barry Cornwall " and Adelaide Anne Procter — Doyle family — Ireby — Over Hall, and the Tathams — Leek Hall and its pleasant surroundings — Cowan Bridge and the Brontes — Coaching days — Among the Leek Fell caves — Ease Gill — Roman road— The Devil's Bridge — When was it built ?— Recent flood — Legend of the Bridge.

CHAPTER XXV

, In the Vale of Lune 278 From Ingleton to Burton — Halsteads— Lund Holme Spa-well — Burton-in-Lonsdale — A Saxon fortress— Castle of the Mowbrays — The manor — Past and present aspects of Burton —Low Field — Cantsfield — Thurland Castle — Tunstall Church, and Charlotte Bronte — Pretty village of Burrow — A pre-historic station — Roman camp — Rauthmel's account— Roman military roads — Ancient bridge — Remarkable discoveries — Description of camp — Recovery of a Roman altar, &c— Lunefield — Kirkby Lonsdale.

CHAPTER XXVI.

, Kirkby Lonsdale and Neighbourhood. 287 Earthworks and tumulus — Kirkby Lonsdale a Danish town — Past and present aspects — Old inns — Origin of market — The parish church — Underley Hall — The celebrated view from the churchyard — Lovely scenery — Casterton Woods — Old corn-mill — Casterton village and church — Roman highway. Part IL— Eastern Division.

CHAPTER XXVII.

, Around Skipton 293 Up Dales— Thorpe-sub-Montem— Threapland— Old houses— Threapland Gill and Cave — Elbolton — Curious knoll-reefs — Knave Knoll Hole — Discovery of human skeletons— Beautiful view— Walk to Barden— Simon Seat — Who was Simon ? — Other Simon Hills and their pre-historic remains — The School of Simon Druid — Ascent of Simon Seat — Marked stones - Beltane feasts — A Sunset on Midsummer Day.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

, Gargrave ... 300 Walk to Gargrave— Flasby Fell— Sharp Haw, a beacon during the Spanish Armada — Red deer— A wonderful fox-hunt— Robert Stor}' — His life at Gargrave — Poetry and Politics — Removal to London — Gargrave Church — Description of the village — The Meets of the Craven Hunt — Some private mansions.

CHAPTER XXIX.

, Relic Hunting in Malhamdale 305 Otterburn — Gomersall family — A local poet — Otterburn Hall — Monastic cell at Otterburn— Drift hills— Post-glacial lake -Opening of pre-historic barrow — Description of contents — Remains of ancient ring-dwellings — Traces of Open Field cultivation — Ancient name of Ryeloaf Hill — Danish Camp — Roman villa at Gargrave — Effect of anticlinals on landscape — Kirkby Malham — * Stocks and Ducking Stool — Last use of Ducking Stool in Craven — Calton, and General Lambert — Calton in old times — Hanlith Hall — Hanlith Moor — Ancient barrow — Unique glacial boulder — Malham.

CHAPTER XXX.

, Malham and the Moors 317 Physical and medical aspects of Malham — Family of Malham — Ancient homestead — Inns — Unexplored caves — Skirethorns bone cave — Plants — Additions to British lichens — Birds of Malham Moor — Bordley— An old grange of the Fountains monks — Bordley Hall and the Procters — Ancient chapel and burial ground — Confiscation of estates for murder — Ancient stone circle — Walk to Grassington — Pre-historic camp and tumuli.

CHAPTER XXXI.

, Round about Kilnsey 325 Malham to Kilnsey — Arncliffe Clowder — Dowkabottom Cave — Its exploration and interesting discoveries — A Celtic habitation — A baby's tomb — Roman coins — Sleets cavern — KilnFey Hall — Wade family — Manor of Kilnsey after the Dissolution— Sheep-washings of the monks— Kilnsey Crag — Supposed ancient coast line — Glacial aspects — What does Kilnsey mean ?— Dr. Whitaker's opinion— The Spurn Head Kilnsea — Comparative deductions— Discovery of coins — Coniston Church, the oldest in Craven — Tennant's Arms, Kilnsey— Sulphur Spring — Glacial mounds— Great Scar Limestone round Kettlewell — Lead mines.

CHAPTER XXXII.

, Kettlewell and Arncliffe 333 The farthest place in England from a railway — Aspects of Kettlewell — Memorable flood — Ancient church — Curious font — Extinct wild animals in Craven — Remains of early occupation by Man — Douk Cave — Ascent of Great Whernside — By the " Slit " to Arncliffe — Arncliffe, supposed eagle's cliff — Another meaning — The old church at Arncliffe.

CHAPTER XXXIII.

, At the Head of the Wharfe 338 Starbottom — Walk to Buckden — Romantic prospects — Beautiful wood scenery — Situation of Buckden — The meaning of Buckden — Wild deer — Buckden Hall — The Heber family — A memorable journey— The Stake Pass, a Roman road — Hubberholme and its ancient church — Pleasing custom — Great snow-drifts — Why does snow remain longer in Upper Wharfedale than elsewhere ? — Over Birks Fell — Ascent of Buckden Pike — Walden — ■ Aysgarth — Cray Gill — Semerwater — Langstrothdale and Chaucer — Population of the dale in a.d. 1379 and A.D. 1499 — Oughtershaw — Raysgill — Over the Horse Head into Littondale — Wonderful prospect.

CHAPTER XXXIV.

, Littondale. A Wild Walk 346 Lonely Littondale — Grant of the valley to the Monks of Fountains — Halton Gill — Chapel — Names of tenants at the Dissolution — Wild Plants — A walk between Penyghent and Fountains Fell — Hesleden in a.d. 1510 — A Monks' courier — Giants' Graves — Are they Danish ? — Tree-burials in Denmark and in Craven — Scottish raids after Bannockburn — Rainscar, the summit of the English watershed — Fountains Fell — Highest cart road in Yorkshire — A wild pass — Winter experiences.

CHAPTER XXXV.

, Malham Moors and Fountains Fell... 352 Grant of Malham Water in A.D. 1150 — Some old houses on the moors — Capon Hall, anciently Copmanhowe — Middle House and Oliver Cromwell — Other ancient tenements — Local possessions of Fountains Abbey — Particulars of them at the Dissolution — Malham Tarn — A vast prospect — Tarn House Experiences of planting — Malham Moors in the Ice Age — Tennant Gill Up Fountains Fell — The View, &c. — Descent into Ribblesdale.

CHAPTER XXXVI.

, About Hellifield 360 Malham to Hellifield— Domesday record — Meaning of Hellifield — The Ings — Anciently an arm of the sea — Discovery of whale bones — History of the manor —Hamerton family — Hellifield Peel — Swinden — Disused coach-road — Old corn-mill — Walk to Gargrave.

CHAPTER XXXVII.

, Long Preston 365 Old coach-road — Well-to-do aspects of Long Preston — The late Mr. John Thompson — Saxon Church — Domesday record — The manor — History of the Parish Church — Ancient rectory house — Description of interior of church — Interesting memorials — Early font — Marks of fire — Cromwell House — The parish registers — Plague at Long Preston — Local tradition — Churchwardens' accounts — Ancient sun-dial — Beacon Coppy — Charity Hospital — School — Old mills- Local possessions of the monks — Citation of charters— Lambert family- Curious discovery of gold — Long Preston Peggy — The story of her adventures — Fragments of old ballad.

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

, Wigglesworth and Rathmell 375 Wigglesworth— Old Hall— Soke mill— Wigglesworth Tarn— Clark's Free School- Spa Well — Longevity — Some local characters — Walk t^o Rathmell — Capelside — Discovery of bronze celt, &c. — More ring-dwellings — Rathmell, a Celtic station — The name explained — Recent use of Celtic numerals — Pre-historic barrows — Rathmell church — The manor — Ancient mills— Tithe-barns— The oldest Nonconformist College in England at Rathmell — Rev. Richard Frankland — Remarkable flood scenes — Cleatops — Stone circle— Anley — The late Mr. John Birkbeck.

CHAPTER XXXIX.

, Horton-in-Ribblesdale 383 Extent and situation of Horton parish — Meaning of Horton— Domesday notice — Grants of lands to the monasteries — Dispute in 1224 between the Abbot of , Fountains and Jervaux — History of the manor— The church — Bone-house — Curious discovery — Interior of church — Ancient glass— Supposed dedication of church to Thomas a Beckett — Another version — Kent families manor-lords of Horton — Dr. Holden— Ancient bells — Plague at Horton — The parish registers— Interesting Terrier — Old Free School— Football Field.

CHAPTER XL.

, All about Penyghent 390 Flood-rakes on Penyghent — A " smoking " beck — Douk Gill— Geological aspects — A lovely nook — Thirl Pot — Mineral deposits — Thund Pot — An unexplored rift— Ascent of Penyghent — Enormous snow-drifts — Sixty sheep perished — Sequence of strata on Penyghent — Wild flowers and ferns — Prof. J. G. Baker, F.R.S., and Yorkshire botany — Observations on some Penyghent plants — From Penyghent to the moon — Ancient deer forest — Curious indictment — The Penyghent Beagles — The prospect from Penyghent — Horton trout-hatchery.

CHAPTER XLL

, On the Scars of the Upper Ribble 399 Horton Moor edge — Sell Gill chasm — Jackdaw Hole— Horton Tarn and its origin — Turn Dub and the water from Alumn Pot— Birkwith farms — A lodge of the monks— Park Fell— Birkwith Cave —Nanny Carr Hole.

CHAPTER XLII.

, Moughton Fell and Alumn Pot 401 Beecroft Hall and the Wilsons— Moughton Fell -Erratic boulders — Interesting geological sight— Moughton Fell Cave — Selside— Alumn or Helln Pot — A stupendous chasm— What means Alumn or Allan ? — The Celtic river Allan, and local family Aleman, a suggested explanation— Immense size of the rift — ■ First descent of the Pot— Subsequent descents and explorations — Professor Dawkin's description.