Sketches of a Tour from Canada to Paris, by way of the British Isles, during the summer of 1867

Front matter

SKETCHES OF A TOUR FROM CANADA TO PARIS, BY WAY OF THE BRITISH ISLES, DURING THE SUMMER OF 1867. By ANDREW LEARMONT SPEDON, ~ w AUTHOR OF THE WOODLAND WARBLER,— TALES OP THE CANADIAN FOREST,— RAMBLES AMONCi THE PLUE N6SE S, —CANADIAN BUMMER EVENING TALJtfS, &C. Go where we will — whatever scene we view Th' Insatiate eye discovers something new ; people, langriage, custom Tho* old, yet new, and strange to foreign eyes ; Whilst ART unfold* Its dark mysti rioufl pages Of man': liro' a tfteysand Even mldh^lhe rains ot di : -ini, hours. The sci ■: tie very das', ne tread Enshrine the silent histories of the stead. PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR, 1868. gttoutmtl: PRINTED BY JOHN LOVELL, SX. NICHOLAS STREET. 1868. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Page Introductory Remarks— Embark on SS. Moravian at Quebec— River and Gulf of St. Lawrence— Reflections-Icebergs— My ship companions— Sea-sickness, its effects!— An unexpected interview, incidents, ke— First sight of the Irish coast, Loch Foyle— Arrival at Londonderry, &c- Description of tbe town ; its walls, historical sketch, sieges, &c— Departure— Description of, scenery, fee- Belfast; its manufactures, &c— Departure to Scotland; passengers, &c— First sight ot' the Scottish coast— F-iroth of dyde, &c. . 7 CIIAI-TEE II. Greenock, &c. — Description of scenery along the Clyde— Dunbarton Castle— Kilpatrick, originally the residence of St. Patrick— Ship-building, &c— Arrival at Glasgow; historical and topographical sketch of the city; other characteristics, &c. — Departure — Stirling Castle, &c— Falkirk ; its historical associations, &c— Linlithgow; its palace, &c— Departure for Edinburgh— Description of the country; its people, characteristics, railways, &c, &c 22

Chapter III

Edinburgh ; hotels, dieting, &c— Morning stroll— Walter Scott's monnment^-Calton hill— Arthur Seat— Working Men's Eating Rooms — Imposition of Hotel keepers — Visit to the house in which I was born— Incident at the Hotel — Visit to the Palace and Abbey of Holyrood ; its historical associations— Historical and topographical sketch of Edinburgh; characteristics of the City, Street criers. Fishwives, &c. — Visit to the dungeons of Burke and Hare, noted murderers — Hugh Millar's house — Parliament Buildings — College —Royal Museum— Castle, &c, &c 39 CHAFI'ER IV. Departure from Edinburgh to tho South of Scotland— Descriptive views of the country and its characteristics as seen from the railway — An incidental and unexpected interview — Galashields, &c. —Selkirk— Scenery of the Ettrick and Yarrow; characteristics of the people, &c— Visit to Abbotsford; its associations, &c— Mel- CONTENTS.

Page rose town and Abbey— Eildon Hills— Bowden— Dryburgh Abbey — Cowdenknowes— Earlston— Learmont's Tower— The Rhymer's Prophecies; historical associations. &c. — Earlston antiquary — Departure 57

Chapter V

Valley of the Tweed; its scenery and characteristics — Kelso— Queen Victoria's visit to Fleurs Castle; her reception, &e, at Kelso, and proceedings, incidents connected therewith — Visit to Edenham. birth-place of the poet Thomson— Sprouston— Y etholm, residence of the Border Gypsies — Linton, and its associations — Jedburgh — Queen'6 visit to that town, &c. — Historical and topographical sketch of the place— Return to Edinburgh— Departure from Leith to England, by North Berwick, Bass rock, Tamtallan Castle, St. Abb's Head, Berwick, &c. — Departure by rail from Berwick for London; characteristics of the country, &c— Newcastle — Killingworth, birth-place of Robert Stephenson ; its associations— Durham, York, &c, with their associations— Descriptive views of country, people, &c, &c. — Arrival at the cityjof London 78

Chapter VI

Morning stroll in London— Historical and Topographical Sketch of the city— Food and Liquor Supplies — Taverns and Cosl'ee-houses— Gas and Coal Supplies — Police and Firemen — Thames, Steamers, Warehouses — Docks— Bridges— Grades of Society — Places of amusement — Post-Oflice — Scholastic and Charitable Institutions — Churches— Museums— Parks— Palaces — Monument of the " Great Fire "—Streets— Tower — St. Paul's Cathedral— Parliament Buildings — Westminster Abbey — An interview with " London Sharpers " 97 CHAPTEE VII. Visit to Spurgeon's Tabernacle— Description of Spurgeon; his style of preaching, Ac— Dr. Cumming, &c, &c,— Sail to Richmond, Kew, Chelsea ; also Greenwich and Woolwich, with description of them, &c— Visit to the Crystal Palace— Sharpers — Indians and their games, &c— Departure for France by Steamer— Passengers —Amusing incidents on board— Arrival at Boulogne— Descriptions of the town, people, &c,— Departure for Paris by rail— Sketches of scenery, &c, &c— Oriel— Amiens — Arrival at Paris 127

Chapter VIII

My first impressions of Paris— Magnificence of the city, &e— Visit the Madeline— Pantheon— Jlotre Dame and other Churches— How Sabbath is spent in PariB— Historical aud Topographical Sketch CONTENTS. V Page ol the city— Visit the Ecole Militaire— Hotel des Invalids— Tomb of Napoleon I— Place de Ia Concorde and its association^—Gar dens and palace of the Tuileries, &c— Champs ElysSes— Triumphal Arch— Museums of the Louvre, Cluny, &c— An Evening Stroll- Visit to the celebrated Gobelin Carpet manufactory— Charitable Institutions— Cemeteries— Catacombs— Theatres, &c— Characteristics of Parisian Society, &c 160

Chapter IX

Visit to the Universal Exhibition— Description of its exterior and interior—Incidents — Characteristics, &c, connected with it— My impressions of tho Canadian Department in the Exhibition — Visit to the Bois de Boulogne — Versailles, &c. — Additional Characteristics of Paris— Buildings— Shops, &c. — Water Supplies— Drainage- Food Supplies— Style of dieting, &c— Manufactories— Omnibuses —Cabs, &e— River Seine— Bridges and Quays — Administration of Municipal Affairs in Paris, &c. — Police — Politeness of the citizens —Exterior morality of the City— Remarks, &c, &c 189

Chapter X

Departure from Paris, en route for England— Rouen ; its characteristics—Havre, &c, &c— Arrival at London— Departure— Rugby- Visit to Stratford, birth-place of Shakspeare; its associations, &c. — Descriptive Views, &c, &c. — Birmingham; its manufactories— Warrington, Remarks— Arrival a' Liverpool; Sketchesofthe City and its characteristics— Departure for Home by the SS. Peruvian — The Passengers, &c. — Sea-sickness; its horrible results— Incidents connected with it — Diviue Service on board, by the Rev. Dr Wilkes of Montreal— Desecration of the Sabbath— Dieting Arrangements of the Vessel— Remarks— Steamship Companies, &c, &c— Arrival at Quebec— Contrast between Canada and the British Isles— My former and my latter impressions of Scotland- Condition of the Working Classes in Britain— Tyranny of the Aristocracy—Our condition in Canada— The "New Dominion"— Conclusion, &c 2U In Hemoriam -23° SKETCHES OF A TOUR FROM CANADA TO PARIS, &c.

Chapter I

I was born in the good old classic city of Edinburgh, Scotland ; but when a child, emigrated with my par ents to America. We sailed from Leith, in the brig Wellington, bound for Quebec. Rough seas and con trary winds rendered our voyage long and disagreeable ; but worse than all, the vessel became wrecked upon the ledges of Cape Rosier on the northern coast of Gaspe", 400 miles eastward of Quebec, and thereby 150 passengers were thrown upon a barren strand, homeless and destitute — the ship a total wreck, our selves narrowly escaping death. In this miserable condition, amidst dangers and privations, and subsist ing chiefly upon fish, one month passed before all of the passengers were removed ; my parents with their two children, the youngest an infant, were among the last number. Arriving at Quebec, we immediately proceeded to Montreal ; three months then having SKETCHES Ot A TOtTR elapsed from the day of our departure from Scotland.

We had intended to settle in Western Canada ; but being deprived of the means of proceeding thither, and my father procuring immediate employment, we remained in the city of Montreal. Four years after wards, my father purchased a farm in the vicinity of Beechridge, County of Chateauguay, C. E., and with his wife and family removed thither. In this and the adjoining neighborhood I have resid ed ever since. Notwithstanding my first unfavorable voyage and the unfortunate events attending it, I have cherished from my early boyhood a desire to revisit my native land. Hoping to find a more favorable op portunity of doing so, I postponed from one season to another until the summer of 1867, when I had the pleasurable gratification of accomplishing my purpose, and also in paying a visit to the Gkeat Exhibition of Paris.

Having recently returned home, I purpose giving in the following pages a brief sketch of the principal towns I visited on my tour, and of the country through which I passed, with a few of their historical associations, the chief characteristics of the people, in cidents of travel, &c. But owing to the small com pass to which I design limiting this work much will have to be left oat that otherwise might have been in teresting to many of my readers. In the latter part of July last, I left home, and at Quebec embarked on the S.S. Moravian, destined for Liverpool. The weather being mild, rendered the sail along the river and gulf of St. Lawrence, exceedingly pleasant. While passing through the straits of Belle- *"R0M CANADA TO PARIS. 9 Isle, there being no fog ac the time, we had an excel lent view of the barren and rugged coasts of New foundland and Labrador, on either side.

At length, we bade farewell to the receding hills, and entered upon the high-seas. The feelings of a person at such a moment, particularly for the first time, are in general of a somewhat peculiar nature. Behind him he sees, perhaps for the last time, the shadowy glimpses of the distant and disappearing land. Before him in immeasurable expanse arises a world of undulating waters peopled by a strange variety of innumerable creatures : he feels, as it were, isolated from the earth — his life, perchance, measured by only a few inches of oak or iron — subject to the waves and winds, and no solid chance of running from danger. Once more he stretches forth his dim vision over the vast expanse, and conjures up the dreary shadows of his soul, which awaken kindred feelings within his heart ; he finds himself but a stranger among many ; he draws more closely to his ship-companions, and strives to glean from those most congenial to himself, a substitute for home-happiness to refill the vacuum of his heart, and relieve the tedium of the passing hours.

Immediately after leaving the straits the air became intensely cold, produced by the number of ice-bergs floating around. During the two days that we saw them, I counted no less than sixty, only one-third of them is above water. Some of them were exceedingly large, and seemed like the hoary monsters of the antedeluvian age. While gazing upon one of them that covered an extensive area, the following ice-olated ideas dripped out of my poetic but almost frozen fancy : — Hail arctic stranger from thy kindred North ; Land of deep snows and icy pyramid ; Like Noah's dove thou strangely wanderest forth Above a solid world by waters hid. And yet no spot of earth hast thou discover'd, But further venturest from thy native home, Like some lost isle that from its base is sev?r'd, Or huge sea-monster mid the realms of foam.

Thou hast a history — for all things have — A life — perchance a thousand years are thine ; And now thou wanderest forth towards thy grave, Where hotter suns on milder waters shine. Perhaps on thee the Lapland maids have courted, Or some old Greenlahder has train'd his deer, Or Iceland hunters in their furs have sported, Or Esquimaux have thrown the fatal spear. And yet perchance thou know'st some sadder tales : Of Franklin's fate thou may'st th' inscription bear ; Perchance thou heard'st his death-distracted wails, Amid the storm that mocked his dying prayer. Perhaps his blood bestain'd thy marble dome, When gushing from the wounds by savage foes ; He may have found in thee an arctic tomb, But southern suns may yet his fate disclose. Like some wing'd insect to the taper's breath Thou flyest southward to the realms of light, Emblem that life is but continued death, A wasting downward to the grave's deep night.

My ship companions consisted chiefly of British Canadians. Several of them were wealthy fanners PROM CANADA TO PARIS. 11 going to purchase cattle fov the improvement of their stock : — others, simply on a visit to their native country ; some for the rennovation of their health ; and a few to see the Paris exhibition ; also two or three English families homeward bound after a few months sojourn in Canada, perfectly disgusted with the country and its people. In reference to the latter, I may add that instead of months it generally requires years to test the merits of our country and become acquainted with its excellent institutions and developments. There were also a few elderly virgins who had emigrated from Scotland a few years before, for the benefit of a change, and to show their good graces to the Canadian youths ; but were also returning disaffected with the country — its bachelors in particular.

On the whole, my companions of the voyage were a very orderly, sociable, and intelligent class. Shortly after entering upon the ocean, the sea being somewhat rough, — the signs of a sudden convulsion in human nature became visible, and ere long a number of volcanoes began to belch forth lava, exhibiting a really terrific aspect ; but after all, it was only an eruption common to such places, and designated by nautical philosophers as " Sea Sickness." Fortunately I was not affected by its spasms, but I really pitied many of those who were ; while, in looking upon others I could scarcely refrain from indulging in a smile ; still it is not a pleasing sight to the beholder to witness everywhere around him the groaning outbursts of poor suffering humanity : he feels a qualmish effervescence arise within himself, and turns hastily away with disgusted feelings, to preserve an equilibrium within his stomach by inhaling a salutary puff of air from the passing gale.

One of our number was a sea captain who had recently lost his ship on a voyage to Quebec ; and was then re turning homewards. He was a Northern Irelander, a widower, of about 50 years of age, and possessed of an agreeable appearance and manner. During the season of sea-sickness he was attentively kind to the ladies, — but more especially to one whom he had in cidentally recognized as a familiar acquaintance of his younger years ; and on whom he had bestowed a considerable share of his first love. Some 18 years ago, and shortly after getting married to another, she had emigrated with her husband to Canada, and never afterwards had seen the captain until they met to gether on board the Moravian. Her husband had recently died, leaving her a sufficient competency for life. -She was at this time returning to pay a visit to her native isle.

The captain paid his addresses to her faithfully ; and their familiar intercourse elicited re marks from their fellow passengers, — but neither of them appeared to show any uneasiness whatever. During each favorable opportunity they were to be seen, arm in arm together pacing the deck, or sitting closely by each other, whispering their loving joys. This occurrence produced a magical effect upon the captain's appearance. Every morning he devoted two hours to the duties of the toilette, so that he might thereby produce a good impression upon the affections of the widow. All went on swimmingly beautiful until the morning of the day we entered Loch Foyle on the Northern Coast of Ireland. It appears that they had previously agreed to arise at an ' early hour so as to have sufficient time to adjust their articles and arrange affairs for their projected marriage.

At early dawn I heard the captain astir as usual, but earlier. Having performed his morning oblations he sprucely walked forth, like aman of dignity, to meet his graceful paramour. Having waited a short time at the place appointed, and she not having appeared, he walked down into the ladies' apartment and quietly entered the room in which she slept. She and her companions, each in separate berths, were still soundly asleep. He stepped forward softly to awaken her, but either through the excitement of his feelings or his ignorance of the topography of the room, he committed a serious blunder by seizing hold of another lady's foot, and shaking it. The woman imagining that some rat was tugging and gnawing at her extremities, instantly started up, and seeing the figure of a man before her, she wildly vented a terrific screech which was followed by a series of appalling screams.

Her companions were also suddenly aroused, and simultaneously, joined in chorus, awakening every sleeper in the other apartments. The captain, on discovering his error, leaped out of the room, and in his hurry, bump ed his head against the upper part of the door, — es caping himself, but leaving his castor behind him as a memorial of the event. At the breakfast-table, one of the under stewards exhibited the hat on the end of a stick, announcing his desire to discover the owner — which brought forth a series of cheers and wit, without any person attempting to lay claim to the head-piece. The captain had concealed himself ; but, a few hours afterwards was seen with his fair lady making a hurried exit from the steamer into a smaller one that lay ready to convey them and others up Loch Foyle, to the city of Londonderry.

Little incidents were daily occurring which served as food for gossip, and rendered the time on board less monotonous. One, however, of a more serious nature is deserving of special notice. About 4 in the morning, of the first Monday, after our leaving Quebec, a number of us were awakened by a tremendous knocking against the door of the steward's room, and several voices demanding him to arise and give them more liquor. He ordered them to go off, where upon they retired, belching against him a tirade of abuse. Desirous of ascertaining who they were, a few of us followed them up stairs, and on reaching the upper deck, beheld five of the cabinites in glorious intoxication, chasing and hauling each other around the deck. One of them was dragging another in wheel-barrow fashion — the legs serving as handles- The rest were endeavoring to appropriate each other, in turn, to a similar purpose, — and this was the novel method of sobering off.

A number of the crew and passengers were looking on, laughing and cheering lustily. Suddenly the performance was brought to a close by the appearance of the captain, who reprimand ed them severely, and ordered them down stairs imme diately. The floor of the smoking-room, wherein they had carried on their lunatic revelry all night, was covered with broken bottles and tumblers; its windows, seats, table and lamp were shattered, — the whole presenting a spectacle of the farcical and closing scene of the Bacchanalian drama. This disgraceful affair was soon quashed. Money will do much to cover the follies of the sons of rich men ; nor were they alone guilty. The steward who had sold them the five bottles of ardent spirits, especially on Sabbath night, was even more sinful than they. The only radical preventive of such evil is to give no liquor, whatever, to any passenger, unless pre scribed by the doctor on board, and that, too, irrespec tive of grade, wealth, or distinction.

As we approximated the Irish coast the air became warmer, and sea-birds were hovering around in large numbers. On the morning of the 10th day of our voyage, the mountains appeared in view, and before noon the steamer was plying along the silvery waters of Loch Foyle, which separates the counties of Derry and Donegal. When within 25 miles of Londonderry, those passengers wishing to land in Ireland, were passed into a ferry-boat, waiting there for the purpose. The Moravian then wheeled about and proceeded on her journey to Liverpool. I was one of the number who disembarked, on account of it being the shorter route to Scotland, by crossing thither from Londonderry or Belfast. On gazing upon the green hills that receded gently from the shores of the Loch, I was wonderfully impressed with a curiosity of feelings.

There was a richness of verdure, and a softness in the expression of the soil, even upon the rocks, that out rivaled anything I had previously seen. The landscape presented a variety of small fields of grain, &c, of different shades, hedged in ; the whole resembling a coverlet of fantastic patchwork. Adjacent to the roads, at short distances were to be seen comfortable looking farm-houses, each sheltered by a clump of trees. As we neared Londonderry, the scenery assumed a more pleasant and variegated aspect, occasioned by the greater number of trees interspersed over the surface. At length the ancient city appeared in view, its spires and high buildings standing forth in bold re lief ; we soon neared its wharves. Our baggage wa3 inspected by the Custom-house officers ; then with joyous gratitude for my safe journey over the deep, I stepped upon shore, and for the first time had the honor of placing my foot upon the soil of old Ireland.

On the wharf were a number of men and boys, ready to convey baggage, &c. Their vehicles were simply hand-carts. How unlike the convenient system of our Canadian conveyance. Numbers of destitute looking women and children were supplicating alms, or selling eatables, &c, and on every occasion expressing their gratefulness for favors received, with the hearty ejaculation of " God bless yer sowl, and may ye never want," &c. The city, particularly the part within the walls, presents a very ancient appearance.. It is, how ever, pleasantly situated upon an eminence arising from a bend of the beautiful Loch Foyle. On the summit, is the old cathedral, with its burying-ground. Within its walls are preserved many of the relics and memor ials of the seige of 1688-9. The walls that enclose the ancient part of the city are of considerable height, and in some places sufficiently wide for two carriages rROM CANADA TO PARIS. 17 to pass.

On their western extremity stands ' Walker's' monument, — plain, but graceful — and bearing an in scription appropriated to him. Several cannon were lying upon the ramparts, among which was the celebrated ' Roaring Mag.' Memorable as the seige of 1688-9, has rendered the name of Londonderry, it does not constitute her only claim to distinction. Many circumstances of a much earlier date distinguish her among the interesting spots of that lovely and in teresting country. The extreme beauty of the situation, added to its peculiar value as a sea-port, seems to have recommended it from the earliest times as a desirable post. The name by which it was first designed was Derry-Calgah, which signifies "T/te oak-wood of the fierce warrior. " In former days the slopes that extend down to the Loch were covered with oaks, and upon the summit of the hill stood the castle of Calgah, bid ding defiance to the rival clans around, and to the hostile invaders who might approach him from the fieighbor ing coasts.

In the 6th century the celebrated Columbs kill a native of Donegal, selected this tempting site, and erected a monastery thereon, as a house of prayer and devotional retirement for men of piety, who were zealous in the study and propogation of Divine truth. Thus, in the course of years did the warlike castle of Calgah give place to the temple of the Christian patriot which formed the nucleus of the " oak-girt-city." In 1566 the garrison of the city passed into the hands of the English. Up to that period the native race had held possession, defeating all who had hitherto attempt* B ed to dislodge them. In 1600, the work of regular fortification was commenced, enclosing the town with walls, and placing it upon the defensive. In 1649 it stood the seige of 4 months ; and during three fourths of a year withstood the terrible seige of 1688-9.

The garrison of the town amounted to 7,343, and the inhabitants to above 30,000, all of whom were confined to a very limited space. During the first three and a half months of the siege no less than 9000 corpses were interred. The receptacles of the dead being filled, there was a want of earth to cover the putrefying bodies, and the shells aimed at the living frequently fell among the dead, producing sights and exhumations, the most hideous and revolting. The scenes and sufferings of the people are described as horrible, and the reality, so overpowering, as scarcely to leave room for the wildest fancy to present an exaggerated picture of the scene. On the following day I proceeded by rail to Bel fast, a distance of nearly 80 miles. The parts of country through which I passed appeared beautiful and in many places delightfully romantic, affording a number of excellent landscapes, worthy of the painter's pencil or the poet's pen.

The land in general is of an undulating character, arising in places to high eminences, again descending into fertile vales,intersected by silvery streams ; and everywhere exhibiting the freshness of verdure, rarely to be seen in other countries. The air, which had been comparatively warm during the morn ing and the previous day, became raw and foggy, and before I had reached the city of Belfast, the clouds were FR0JI CANADA TO PARIS. 19 descending in a drizzling shower. This city is conve niently situated to the river Lagan ; and is much larger, and has a more modern appearance than Lon donderry. During the last few years it has made rapid progress in prosperity and improvements ; nor has its population hesitated to keep pace therewith, it being at present 160,000, having an increase of 40,000 in 6 years.

It is a city of commerce and manufacture ; and in the export of cattle carries on an extensive trade. During the week previous to my arrival, 4,358 horned cattle were exported, 2788 for Scotland, and the remainder for England. It has an excellent harbor and spacious docks. Nearly 12,000 vessels enter yearly. The exports of 1866 were 11,900,000 tons; and in the articles of linens and yarns, which may be said to constitute its special industry, it was enormous, there being of the former, 102,000,000 yds. exported, and of the latter, the amount was of a corresponding ratio. The afternoon that I landed in Belfast being dis agreeably wet, and feeling somewhat unwilling to pro tract a stay, I embarked on steamer that evening for Glasgow, and therefore had not the opportunity of making a tour throughout the city.

What little I saw of Belfast, or even of Ireland, I had formed a some what favorable opinion, particularly of the appearance of the country ; but taking circumstances into conside ration I must give the preference to Canada, for where the privileges are equal and universal the greater must be the prosperity of the people. I may here remark that the horses I saw in Ireland appeared in general to be similar to our Canadian ponies, but taller, they were lively in appearance, and trotted nimbly. The Irish jaunting car was quite a novelty to me, it is side-seated, without either railing or cover, and contains two passengers on either side, placed back to back, while the driver sits in front, his back to their sides. Another person can also be accommo dated with a seat at the rear, and placed so that his face is looking behind him.

Had such vehicles to pass over some of the jagged roads of our country at the same ratio of speed, in less than five minutes not a vestige of the riders would be seen on board. They may be agreeable to ride upon, but they looked sus piciously dangerous ; however, they had a light and airy appearance, and presented a striking contrast with the other class of Irish carts to be seen rolling heavily along. With the anticipation of again visiting Ireland, on my return voyage, I bade farewell to it for the time being. The steamer contained a mixed cargo of freight and cattle, — also crowded with pas sengers, so densely, that there was scarcely a place to sit comfortably in. There were a number of good Irish singers on board ; and these were the boys and girls who knew how to sing with pathetic glee, throwing, as' it were, their whole soul into the chorus; and had there been sufficient room, no doubt there would have been also a good Irish jig.

Nearly all of them had a noggin of the real potheen with them, so as to prevent sea-sickness, and preserve their spirits in excellent humour. Nothing of an indecent or jarring nature occurred, and the whole scene passed off pleasantly, with a good sprinkling of mother-wit, for which the Irish are distinguished. Next morning, at dawn, I had the pleasure of seeing, in the distance, the western coast of my native isle, and ere long the steamer was forcing its way towards the Clyde, among some of the lofty isles of the Western Hebrides. The morning was indeed mild and lovely, and the sun arose in majestic splendor, causing the fog that mantled the summit of the isles to disappear, and showing forth, in romantic loveliness, the twin Cum braes, and their sister islands. Numbers of fisher men, in their little boats, were gliding over the smooth surface of the Forth, and the sea-birds were sporting, on joyous wing, over the tidal waters.

In the dis tance, on the isle of Bute, Rothsay appeared, and showed itself as a beautifully-situated and lovely place. This town has become of late years a very fashionable resort ; and during summer, numerous pleasure-boats are daily plying between it and Glas gow, a distance of over 40 miles. At length, we arrived at the quay of Greenock. The wharf was crowded by men and women and children, all staring as eagerly as if they were trying to make the most use of their eye-sight. Several of the women came on board to sell milk, pies, cakes, &c. A sturdy little fellow was yelling aloud, in the broad Scottish dialect, " Aipples for sale — whaul by aipples ; twa for a hapney," &c. ; whilst another dirty, tattered urchin was selling newspapers, and, with a coarse, husky voice, shouting out — " Glasgah Her-rald" — " Edin burrah Scoats-mun ;" thus giving good emphasis the whole, but prolonging the last syllable, ending with a sort of tip-up of his voice.