The Sacred City of the Hindus: an account of Benares in ancient and modern times ... With an introduction by F. Hall

Introduction

BY FITZEDWAED HALL, ESQ., M.A., D.C.L. OXON. LONDON: TRUBNER & CO, 60, PATERNOSTER ROW. 1868. [ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.] HERTFORD: PRINTED RY STEPHEN AUSTIN.

Preface

. The history of a country is sometimes epitomized in the history of one of its principal cities. The city of Benares represents India, religiously and intellectually, just as Paris represents the political sentiments of France. There are few cities in the world of greater antiquity, and none that have so uninterruptedly maintained their ancient celebrity and distinction. In Benares, Buddhism was first promulgated; in Benares, Hinduism has had her home in the bosom of her most impassioned votaries. This city, therefore, has given impulse and vigour to the two religions which to this day govern half the world. An account of a city of sueh remarkable associations, which has occupied such a prominent place in the annals of the human race, is not without its importance, and ought not to be devoid of interest. Having resided in it for several years, I have enjoyed peculiarly favourable opportunities for becoming acquainted with its inner life Ix- VI

PREFACE.

. and character. The task I have set myself is not that of discussing the religious systems existing there, — which would be an unnecessary undertaking, it having been so frequently accomplished by abler hands, — but of giving a representation of Benares as she was in the past, and as she is in the present. Her early condition— her connexion with ancient Buddhism — her architectural remains — her famous temples, holy wells and tanks, and numerous ghats or stairs leading down to the Ganges — the legends concerning them — the peculiar customs at the temples — the ceremonies of the idolater — the modes of worship — the religious festivals, and other topics, illustrative of the character which Benares maintains as the sacred city of India, are dwelt upon, with some amount of detail, in this volume.

I have deemed it of moment, also, in a book of this nature, to make some observations on the influence which education, European civilization, and, above all, Christianity, are now exerting upon the city. As Benares has held a foremost place in the history of India for two thousand five hundred years, at the least, so, in all likelihood, she is destined to retain that position in the new era of en lightenment which has already dawned upon the land. Portions of this work have, at various times, appeared in print, in contributions to the Calcutta Review and the Journal of the Asiatic Society of Bengal, and in a

PREFACE.

. VII Lecture delivered before the Benares Institute, published in the Transactions of that Society. I would express my warmest thanks to Charles Horne, Esq., C.S., late Judge of Benares, for his very valuable assistance in the archæological researches de scribed in this book, especially in Chapters xix. and xx. My thanks are also due to J. H. B. Ironside, Esq., C.B., Magistrate of Benares, for his kindness in placing at my disposal a paper on the Melas or Festivals of Benares, drawn up by Babu Si'tal Prasad, Deputy Inspector of Schools. I would likewise acknowledge my great ob ligations to D. Tresham, Esq., Head Master of the Government Normal School, Benares, for his excellent photographs of the city, from which the illustrations of this volume have been taken. M. A. SHEERING. July 2nd, 1868. CONTENTS. Preface v Introduction — By Fitzedward Hall, Esq., D.C.L xvii

Chapter I

Early history of Benares. — Sanctity of the city. — Mythic character of Indian history. — Ancient Buddhist records respecting Benares. — S'akya Muni, or Buddha, preached the doctrine of Buddhism first in Benares. — -Antiquity of Benares. — Hiouen Thsang's account of his visit to the city in the seventh century of the Christian era. — Macaulay's description of Benares. — Con nexion of Benares with the religious history of half the human race. — Its connexion with Buddhism. — Life and labours of Buddha. — Benares subsequent to the fall of Buddhism in India. — The Brahman. — Sons of the Ganges. — Devotees and pilgrims. — Benares, the religious centre of India . 1 CHAPTER H. No Architectural remains dating prior to the third century before Christ yet found in India. — Ancient Hindu Edifices of the primitive period, not of a rude character. — Did the Hindus borrow from the Assyrian and Persian Sculptors? — Ancient remains found chiefly in the northern quarter of the city. — Mohammedan lust for Hindu edifices. — Shifting tendency of the modern city. — Origin of the appellation " Benares." .... 19 CHAPTER HI.

Puranic form of Modern Hinduism.— Increase of Temples in Northern India. — Number of Temples in Benares. — Temple of Bisheswar, the idol-king of Benares. — Ancient Temple of CONTENTS. X S2 93 Bisheswar, now a Mohammedan Mosque.— The Well Gyan Bapi.— Temple of A'd-Bisheswar.— The Well Kasi Karwat.— Temple of Sanichar. — The goddess Annpiirna and her temple. — Temples of Ganes and S'ukreswar " '

CHAPTER IV.

Temple of Bhaironath, the god-magistrate of Benares.— Dandpan, or the Deified Staff.— Temple of the Planet.—Kal kup, or Well of Fate.— Image of Mahakal, or Great Fate.— The Manikarnika Well and Ghat. — Legends respecting the Well. — Temple of Tarake*4war.— Sindhia Ghat, and the Raja of Nag pore's Ghat.— Temple of Briddhkal.— Shrines of Markandeswar and Daksheswar. — Legend of Raja Daksh. — Temples of Alpmriteswar and Ratneswar 61

CHAPTER V.

Legend respecting Divodas. — Temple of Divodaseswar. — The Well Dharm-kup.— Radha-Krishna.— The Nag-Kuan, or Serpent's Well. — Old Images. — Temples of Bageswari, Jwara hareswar, and Siddheswar

CHAPTER VI.

Benares, Kasi, and Kedar, the three Grand Divisions of the city. — No old Hindu Temples in Benares. — Puranic character of the Kasi Division of the City. — No trustworthy information concerning Ancient Buildings to be obtained either from Hindus or from their sacred writings. — Preference of the Old Fanes by Pilgrims. — Trilochan Temple. — Legends respecting Trilochan. — The Idolater's idea of the benefit resulting from Worshipping in this Temple. — Kot Lingeswar. — Nanak Shah, the Sikh Guru. — Painting in the Trilochan Temple, depicting the Punishments of Hell. — Trilochan Ghat. — Gae Ghat. — Temples of Nirbud dheswar and A'd Mahadeva. — Gor Ji, the Gujarati Brahman. .

CHAPTER VII.

Panchganga Ghat. — Legends respecting it. — Lakskmanh-'il-i Temple. — The Minarets. — Temple of Kameswar. — The Machaudari Tilth or Place of Pilgrimage CONTENTS. XI

CHAPTER VIII.

Temple of Jageswar, a Resort of the Native Aristocracy of Benares. — Kasi-Devf, Goddess of the City of Benares. — Karn ghanta Talao or Tank.— Temple of the Demon Bhut-Bhairo. — Temple of Bara Ganes. — Jagannath. — Satis 116

CHAPTER IX.

The Pisach-Mochan Tank. — Legend of the Goblin Pisach. — The Festival of Lota-Bhanta, or the Egg-plant. — The Ghats and Temple of Pisach-Mochan. — Suraj-Kund or Tank of the Sun. — The Horn or Burnt Sacrifice. — The god Ashtang-Bhairo. — Temple of Dhruveswar or the Pole Star 123

CHAPTER X.

The Man-Mandil Ghat. — Temple of Dalbhyeswar.— Temple of the Moon . or Someswar. — The Man-Mandil Observatory, erected by Raja Jay Sinh. — Description of its Instruments. — The Nepalese Temple 129

CHAPTER XI.

Dasasamedh Ghat and Temple. — Legend of Dasasamedh. — Siddheswar! Temple. — Chandra Kiip, or Well of the Moon. — Temple of the goddess S'ankata Devi. — S'ankata Ghat. — Ram Ghat 139

CHAPTER XII.

The Bengali population of Benares. — The popular Temple of Kedareswar. — Legend of Kedar. — Mansarwar Tank and sur rounding Temples. — Bal-Kriskna and Chaturbhuj Idols. — ■ Maneswar Temple. — The great Image of Tilubhandeswar. — Ancient mutilated Statue. — Temple of Dulareswar. — Peepul tree at Chauki Ghat. — Swinging gods 146 CHAPTER XHI. Durga Kund Temple. — Bloody Sacrifices ; their meaning. — Sacred Monkeys. — Legend of Durg and Durga. — Durga Kund or Tank. — Kurukshetr Talao or Tank. — The Lolarik Kuan or Well. — Ancient Sculptures CONTENTS. 169

CHAPTER XIV.

Temple of the Maharaja of Benares at Ramnagar. — Raja Cheit Singh's Tank. — Virtue of Pilgrimage to the Ramnagar side of Benares. — Temple of Vedavyas. — Panch-kosi Road, or Sacred Boundary of Benares. — Pilgrimage of the Panoh-kosi. — Sanitary condition of Benares. — Improvements suggested . .

CHAPTER XV.

Barna Sangam, or Confluence of the Barna and Ganges. — A'd-kesav Temple. — Barna Ghat. — Raj Ghat Fort ; its use in 1857. — Remains of Buddhist Monastery. — Tank of Bhairo. — Lat or Pillar of S'iva. — Ancient Pillar. — Account of Dis turbance in Benares when the Pillar was thrown down. — The Ghazeepore Road.— Ancient Bridge over the Barna .... 184

CHAPTER XVI.

S'ivala Ghat. — The Old Fort. — Raja Cheit Singh; History of his Insurrection and of the proceedings of Warren Hastings in connexion therewith 197 CHAPTER XVH. Hindu and Mohammedan Melas or Religious Festivals, held periodically, in Benares 213 CHAPTER XVIH. The Buddhist Ruins at Sarnath — Their Antiquity. — Sum mary of the Narratives of Fa Hian and Hiouen Thsang, respecting the buildings formerly existing at Sarnath and in its neighbourhood. — Points of agreement in the Narratives. — Modern Explorers of the Rums. — Extent and Nature of the Remains. — The Great Tower : Description of it by Major- General Cunningham, and account of his Excavations. — Age of Buddhist Topes or Towers. — Remains of a Buddhist Mon astery — Mr. Thomas's Account of them. — Discovery of laro-e numbers of Statues and Bass-reliefs.— Excavated Chamber.

Foundation of an Ancient Tower — Major-General Cunning ham's Description of it. — The Chaukandi Tower. — The Tiipat tana Hall, or abode of Buddhist Devotees. — Remains of Vihdra CONTENTS. XIII 328 or Temple-monastery. — Small Building, containing Sixty Sculp tures.—The Seal Chaityas.— The Buddhist Formula.— S'akya Muni, the historical Buddha — His visit to Benares. — Spread of Buddhism from Benares. — Decline of Buddhism in India. — Destruction of Buddhist Structures at Sarnath, by fire.— Fall of Buddhism 230

CHAPTER XIX.

Ancient Buddhist Ruins at Bakariya Kund. — Remains of old Wall. — Carved Stones and Ancient Pillars. — Remains of small Buddhist Temple. — Remains of larger Temple. — Traces of Buddhist Monastery 271

CHAPTER XX.

Further Account of Ancient Remains recently discovered in Benares and its vicinity. — Meaning of the epithets 'ancient' and ' old ' in relation to Benares. — Ancient Remains, No. I., in Raj Ghat Fort. — Ancient Remains, No. H., near Raj Ghat Fort. — Ancient Remains, No. HI., Small Mosque in the Budaoh Mahalla. — Ancient Mound or Ridge. — Ancient Remains, No. TV., Tiliya Nala and Maqdam Sahib. — Ancient Remains, No. V., Lat Bhairo. — Ancient Remains, No. VI., Battis Khambha. — Ancient Remains, No. VH., Arhai Kangura Mosque; Hindu Temple of Kirtti Bisheswar. — Ancient Remains, No. VIII., Chaukhambha Mosque. — Ancient Remains, No. IX., Aurung zeb's Mosque, near Bisheswar Temple. — Ancient Remains, No. X., Ad-Bisheswar Temple and neighbouring Mosque. — Ancient Remains, No. XL, Stone Pillar standing in Sone ka Talao. — Note • 288

CHAPTER XXI.

Source of the great wealth of Benares — Its chief Articles of Commerce — Its Native Bankers — Its Poor — Increased desire for Education. — The Government or Queen's College. — Monolith in the College Grounds. — The Normal School. — The Church of England Mission. — The London Society's Mission. — The Baptist Society's Mission. — Native Schools of various*! classes. — The Benares Institute. — Public Buildings in the suburbs. — Monu ment to Mr. Cherry. — Influential Native Gentlemen of Benares. CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXH. Sentiments engendered by the contemplation of the city of Benares— Its history, the history of India.— Principles of pro gress at work in the city. — Changes visible in native society.— The Brahmo Samaj.— Diminished study of Sanskrit. —Diminished faith in Idolatry in Benares and Northern India generally. — Influence of education on Hindu youths. — A Martin Luther for India. — Influence and spread of Christianity. — Gunga-putras, or sons of the Ganges. — Literary and Religious Societies amongst the natives. — The Benares Institute — Nature of its discussions. — Lecture of Pandit Lakshmaji — His account of the consequences of Hinduism. — Effect of Missions and Education on Benares and on India. — Religious agitation in India. — What is the destiny of Idolatry and of Christianity in India ? — The Future in respect of Benares. — Remarks of the Rev. Dr. Thomson, a Bishop of the Methodist Episcopal Church of the United States, on the religious and social condition and future prospects of India 341