The Great Gold Lands of South Africa ... Edited, from notes, by R. Smith. With ... illustrations

Front matter

THE GREAT GOLD LANDS OP SOUTH AFRICA THE GREAT GOLD LANDS OF SOUTH AFRICA A VACATION RUN IN CAPE COLONY, NATAL, THE ORANGE FREE STATE, AND THE TRANSVAAL VISITING THE DIAMOND MINES AND THE GOLD FIELDS; THE SCENES OF THE BOER WAR AND THE WAR IN ZULULAND j AND THE COUNTRY OF THE SWAZIES TO WHICH ARE ADDED NARRATIVE OF ADVENTURES IN MATABELELAND, AND AN ACCOUNT OF TME EXPEDITION TO MASHONALAND THE WHOLE FORMING & "S'Mhhooli imfr faxulit to xxxUxxbixxQ ©jsitos ixxxb gittkn EDITED, FROM NOTES, BY KONALD SMITH WITH MAP AND NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS WARD, LOCK, AND Co. LONDON, NEW YORK, AND MELBOURNE 1891 [All HffhU reserved]

Preface

. f I "1HE following pages have been edited from notes of a visit to South Africa, and accounts of life and work in that part of the continent. The reader will see South Africa through, as it were, the eyes of travellers, settlers, gold and diamond seekers, and others familiar with the scenes described. I have brought together the views and impressions of those only who are in the country, or who have been there some time ; and the sources from which I have gathered information may be regarded as trustworthy. LONALD SMITH. CONTENTS. CHAP. PAGE I. Going Out 1 II. The Portuguese Capital 6 III. The Run to Madeira 11 IV. On Board Ship 21 V. Gape Town 31 VI. Port Elizabeth 37 VII. Up Country to Kimberley 44 VIII. Kimberley Diamond Fields 5? IX. The Great Diamond Group 58 X. Diamond Finding on the Vaal .... 69 XI.

Illicit Diamond Buyers 76 XII. Coach to Johannesburg 87 XIII. At the Gold Diggings 99 XIV. Johannesburg 108 XV. The Gold Fields 118 XVI. Last Words about Johannesburg . . . .127 XVII. Pretoria 131 XVIII. Coach to Biggarsbueg I5u CONTENTS. CHAP. PAGE XIX. Durban, Natal ........ 1-5 XX. The Capital op Natal 173 XXI. Isandhlani and Dlundi . . . . . . 185 XXII. To the Kaap Gold Fields 194 XXIII. Eureka City— The Famous Sheba Reef . . 204 XXIV. SWAZIELAND 213 XXV. Baines' Adventures in Matabeleland . . . 219 XXVI. Old Diggings— Shooting Buffaloes . . 230 XXVII. The Mashonas 240 XXVIII. Expedition to Mashonaland 250 XXIX. Mashonaland 260 XXX. The " Gates " of St. John's River . 265 XXXI. Graham's Town . 271 XXXII. Ostrich Farming in the Karoo .... 280 XXXIII. Concluding Notes A KAFFIR KKAAI. DARTMOUTH HARBOUR. THBOUGH SOUTH AFEICA. A VACATION- BUN;

Chapter I. Going Out

Those who are looking with longing eyes to the Colonies will find much to interest them in South Africa — a land of " sunshine and of shadow," of vast extent, of illimitable resources, of striking contrasts of scene and climate, and of chequered history. Need it be said that such a land presents ample scope for the unemployed energies of the mother-country, either in adventure or in trading, in agriculture or in mining ? A vacation spent in a run through the colonies and states which compose the South African group has enabled me to offer the following pages to the reader. The voyage out is no longer the tedious and risky passage it was. In a few days the disagreeables of northern latitudes are left behind, and you soon begin to enjoy an invigorating change of climate and scene. The fine vessels — there are none better — of the Union Line steam the distance in three weeks, bearing you safely through six thousand miles of ocean, and providing handsomely for your comfort and pleasure.

The vessel in which my passage was taken was one of the Union Line, a worthy sea-boat, and a well-appointed floating hotel. You may, if you choose, go on board in dock at Blackwall, or you may join the ship in Dartmouth Harbour, saving a day, and exchanging for the river passage a journey by rail. Be guided by the time of the year and the state of the weather. It is a pleasant sail down the Thames and round the coast in the summer months ; but in late autumn or the winter months the railway journey is obviously preferable. In Dartmouth Harbour the complement of passengers is made up, the mails are taken on board, and shore-going friends say good-bye. Then the stout ship, heading south-west, is soon rushing at full speed through the sea. Settling down on board ship takes time ; the motion of GOING OUT. 3 the vessel is new to you, you are not yet used to the construction of your bunk, and there is a squeamish feeling you must allow for ; but insensibly this wears off, you get your sea-legs, you readily fall into the ways of things, and begin to enjoy the passage.

We had a most com panionable party of passengers on board — some returning colonists in high spirits, a contingent of hard-headed Scotchmen, a few health-seekers for Madeira, and a number of ladies and children. Turning out in the morning about six, you have your cup of coffee and a batb, and then there is before you a long day of delightful idling. The pas sengers distribute themselves about the deck in little knots. The smokers gather on the lee-side of the ship and yarn; the ladies, with books or work, make themselves comfortable in ship's chairs; the children are rolling and tumbling about on the white, dry, holy-stoned deck ; and for a time all goes merrily. There is a break now and again for meals. These are the great events of the day ; and if you be fit and well, you will do justice to them and thank Heaven.

The morning sea-breeze has put a keen edge on your appetite, and there is no lingering behind when the bell rings for breakfast. The muster, of course, depends on the state of the weather, on the time that has elapsed since the ship left port, or on the ability of the passengers to get about. But assuming that the ship has been a few days at sea, and that she is steaming steadily, then there is a strong muster. Having neither newspapers nor letters to occupy your attention, ship's gossip is made much of. Other people's affairs, with which you wouldn't concern yourself on shore, interest you. Your own tongue loosens, and you too become talkative. You tell your neighbour all about yourself and your belongings, and of his belongings and CAPE FINISTERRE. himself you hear in turn. The colonists, having been "out," are of course much looked up to, and their "wrinkles " are carefully treasured.

There are always some good stories told, and with these and nautical banter the breakfast hour comes to a close. Being at sea, it is assumed that you are not able to hold out for more than three hours. For when " eight bells " GOING OUT. are struck (noon) you go below for tiffin, a substantial meal for famishing passengers to be going on with. Then at sis o'clock the dinner-bell rings ; and as though a strict fast had been kept for twenty-four hours, not a moment is lost in getting to your seat. The saloon looks at its best. The tables are gay with colour, the passengers are in good humour, and the waiting is faultless. Ee collecting that no land is in sight, and that the ship is ploughing swiftly through deep water, you marvel at the wonderful resources of the steward. Fresh fruit and flowers are on the tables before you.

The menu invites you to make an effort. Your favourite joints, dishes of tempting morsels, game, fowl, and all the et ceteras of a fashionable dinner are offered to you. One might suppose that when the cloth was drawn, and the passengers had cracked their nuts and jokes, there would be an end to the meals for one day ; but later further provision is made against starvation. You have tea in the saloon; and afterwards, if you feel again the pangs of hunger, you can have something more. The first land we sighted was Cape Finisterre. In crossing the Bay of Biscay the weather was squally, and we had a wet and uncomfortable time of it. The ship rolled and plunged a good deal, and some of us were glad enough to tuck ourselves comfortably in our berths. But the next day the weather cleared up, and we got about again.

In approaching the Portuguese coast we left the squalls behind, and lounged about under the influence of a clear sky and genial sunshine. OVEULOOKING THE TAGUS, WHICH WIDENS OUT INTO A LAKE-LIKE FORMATION.

Chapter II. The Portuguese Capital

All hands were aroused at midnight as the steamer slowed and stopped at the mouth of the Tagus ; and, on coming on deck in the morning, the magnificent panorama of Lisbon was coming in sight. For beauty of situation, as approached from the sea, the Portuguese capital is scarcely surpassed among European cities. It is on the north and west bank of the river, which widens out into a lake-like formation ; and from almost the water's edge to the summit of the rising ground the city is built. There was not much time for sight-seeing ; but it is something to stretch one's legs on shore, so a small party of us landed. It is somewhere said that Lisbon was THE PORTUGUESE CAPITAL. built on seven hills. It would, perhaps, be difficult to make this quite clear, so indistinct are the outlines ; but if one may judge by the number of steep streets, and the ascents it is necessary to make to see objects of interest, there can be no doubt but that the city spreads over many hills.

We clambered up some quaint old streets to the cathedral, Basilica de Santa Maria. Though in some respects modernized — disfigured one should perhaps say — it is still the most interesting church in Lisbon. It is in the eastern part of the city, below the Castle of St. George, and is a moderate-sized building, with two low western towers. As seen from without, the shafts to the openings in the towers, the windows of the tall ruined transept, and the round western doorway are fine relics of the ancient building, on the site of which the present edifice was reared. There are two ravens — discreditably thin and starved-looking — kept in a court-yard, originally part of the cloister, the object of keeping them being to acknowledge the good offices of the ravens said to have protected the relics of St. Vincent during their transportation from the Cape.

But why starve them ? Our guide conducted us through the principal streets. The best shops are in the Rua Aurea Augusta Garrett, popularly called the Chiado, and the Praco do Rocio. Each trade occupies its own street in the lower part of the city; consequently the goldsmiths will be found in the Rua Aurea or Golden Street, the silversmiths in the Rua da Prata, the booksellers in Rua Augusta, and so on. This arrangement was planned at the re-building of Lisbon after the great earthquake. In the market one notices an abundance of fruit — apples, pears, grapes, bananas, and oranges. The Portuguese are fond of decorating their house-fronts with blue, white, and coloured tiles, imparting a gaiety of aspect novel and pleasing. Of churches and palaces there seem no end. From the quarries of Peropinheiro and Extremoz a cretaceous marble is got, which is exceedingly effective in decorative work.

In the rough it is white, but when polished shows a pinky hue. The temptation to use this marble is no doubt very great, and probably this accounts for the number of churches. One of these — the church and monastery of Belem — shows the last struggle of Gothic against Renais sance art in Portugal. It is certainly the most curious of the Lisbon churches, and visitors make a point of seeing it if they see nothing else. On the site of this church once stood a small chapel, in which Vasco da Gama and his companions passed the night in prayer previous to their embarkation for India. And in gratitude for the success of that expedition it was determined by the king to erect a magnificent church. This was designed by an Italian, and the works were carried out with great rapidity. It is related that when the scaffolding of the nave was struck, the vaulted roof gave way and destroyed a number of the workmen.

When the roof was re-erected, the architect became so THE PORTUGUESE CAPITAL. much alarmed lest a similar accident occur again that he decamped. The king then gave orders that the scaffolding should be removed by malefactors under sentence of death, with a promise of free pardon if they escaped. The building stood firm, and the workmen built them- LISBON. selves homes with the lumber which they removed, and became honest and useful members of society. So at any rate goes the story, and more unlikely conversions have taken place in the world. A noteworthy object is the Aqueduct, an evidence of enterprise one hardly expected to see in Portugal. It serves to convey the water from springs situated more than six miles from the north-west side of Lisbon, and pours it into a large reservoir, thus providing a fine water supply.

A square which will bear comparison with any other in Europe is the Praca do Commercio. On three sides are lofty regular buildings, with spacious arcades below, terminating next the river in a square tower, on each side of which are the Government offices. Being now hungry, the guide led the way to the Universal, a hotel in the Rua Nova do Carmo, facing the Chiado, where six of us and the guide lunched to our satisfaction. Lisbon is said to be an expensive place to live in; but the charge— 9,000 reis — for seven famishing persons, in a hotel with a marble staircase, did not strike me as very high, being under six shillings per head in English money. Having seen all that the limit of our stay would allow, we returned to our vessel, saw the mails brought on board, and the moorings cast off. And as the vessel steamed down the Tagus we saw the Palace of the Ajuda, one of the royal residences — a vast structure in white marble, over looking the suburb of Belem.

The Necessidades we were told was a less pretentious palace ; but it is in the extreme west of the city, and we saw it not, nor the extinct convent of Sao Bento, in which the sittings of the Cortes are held. It would no doubt have been very enjoyable if we could have spent a few days driving in the neighbour hood of Lisbon ; but our destination was Cape Town, and our stay in the Tagus was consequently short. FUNCHAL, ISLE OF MADE1II V.

Chapter III. The Run To Madeira

There was a good deal of rough water when we cleared the mouth of the river and stood out to sea ; but we were becoming, if not experienced mariners, at any rate fitted to accommodate ourselves to the motion of the ship. And this is something to be thankful for. To be able to hold on or keep on one's legs as the vessel suddenly rolls to leeward, and as suddenly rights and rolls away again in the bed of a heavy sea, is an accomplishment it takes time to acquire. And, therefore, it was all the more creditable that we passengers were not found strewn about the saloon in pieces before we got into smooth water. At dinner the " fiddles " were out. These are trays without bottoms, to keep the plates and glasses from tumbling about in rough weather. But even with these safeguards there is now and again a great crash of glass and crockery.

The weather moderating, we had a pool on the ship's run — 248 miles. It is a never-failing source of amusement. You pay a shilling, and get a ticket, numbered. This is sold by auction to the highest bidder. Whoever buys pays double the price bid, of which one half goes to the owner, and the other half to the pool. You can of course bid for your own ticket, if you wish to keep it. After the run the ticket numbered nearest the actual figures of the distance wins the prize, while ten above and ten below get second and third prizes, ten per cent, going to Sailors' Home or charities. The thing was new to me; but I managed to get one-and-three back for my shilling, my ticket being supposed to have a fairly good chance. We are steering a south-westerly course direct for the Madeiras. The sea is still rough, but there is a good wind, and with all sails set the good ship is ploughing along at a great rate of speed.

The increasing heat has brought out the awning, and there is an electric lamp fitted up on deck for use in the evening. After dinner the steward's band plays, some of the passengers sing, and for an hour or so we have a capital vocal and instrumental concert. Then we gather in little parties for a last pipe and a chat before turning in for the night. At eleven lights are put out, at which hour most of the passengers are asleep in their bunks. The next morning Madeira is in sight. The eastern point first presents itself to view, jutting out into the narrow and jagged promontory of St. Lorenzo, upon an islet of which point is erected the Pharol, or lighthouse. Madeira lies on the right. Away on the left, at a distance of some twelve miles, are the Desertas, three islands whose precipitous rocks and sterile ridges prevent habita tion and have led to their name.

As first seen Madeira seems to offer but a rugged welcome. Innumerable hills, lofty and peaked, and deeply pierced by ravines, form the prospect, and visual evidence of the volcanic nature of the mass is everywhere afforded. As the steamer passes swiftly along, however, the view loses its sterility. The green valley of Machio, with the townlet near its mouth, comes into sight ; and soon after follows Santa Cruz, the most important place in the island after Funchal, the capital : the latter lies a dozen miles farther on. And as the steamer passes close to shore, the richly wooded slopes now to be seen, which contrast finely with the vivid colouring of the exposed rocks facing the sea, begin to give an idea of the true beauties of the island. The view of Funchal itself, its white-walled and red tiled houses lying in a close cluster near the bay, and becoming more scattered and interspersed with foliage as the eye takes in the range of the surrounding hills, is a sight not to be forgotten.

It is truly a little paradise we have come to. The water is of brilliant ultra-marine. There is not a cloud in the sky, and the sunshine pervades THROUGH SOUTH AFRICA. the whole place. Many hired boats put off from the shore ; the first to come alongside being the awning covered gig of the port sanitary official, who is charged to see that we have a clean bill of health. Next we have the custom-house officers ; then the agents of the steamer; and after them the seafaring population. A flotilla of small craft containing traders or touts makes for the gangway ; and the air is filled with a babel of sound as the boats bob up and down with the waves, and struggle for a place at the ship's ladder. Cross over to the other side of the deck, and you will find the water alive with copper-coloured youngsters, diving like fishes for small coins flung to them, and shrieking for more in a strange compound of English and Portuguese.

Their dexterity is amazing. The only chance of their missing the coin is when two or more of the lads collide under water and fight for its possession. From the bumboats swarthy fellows, clad in white shirt and trousers, scramble up by ropes, boathooks, or any other means at hand, and take the deck by storm. In a twinkling you have specimens of Madeira needlework spread invitingly before your eyes ; bananas, oranges, and other fruits dandled temptingly below your nose ; views of the island thrust upon you; and your patronage be sought for the famous basket-work chairs and couches made in the island. If one were returning, it would be as well to make some purchases ; but passengers outward bound keep their money in their pockets, We were ready of course for a run on shore. There was a good deal said before we started in regard to the predatory and grasping habits of the natives ; but, to do them justice, I must say that I have been as badly fleeced at many an English watering-place.

The noise and tenacity are perhaps greater in Madeira, but the barefaced fleecing is not much worse. Getting ashore, we set out to see about us. And rejecting bullock-waggons as a means of getting over the ground quickly, we selected and mounted some likely looking ponies, and in single file wound our way up the main streets. These are narrow and sloping, and the pavements are made of slippery round stones. Having only a few hours' stay in the island, we could spare no time for long excursions, of which there are many, and we were told delightful. Making for the highlands, on which are the Mount Church and the Quinta da Vigia, we got a good view of the country around, and the sea stretching far into the ocean's solitude. At their moorings in the roadstead are the good ship in which we arrived, one of the Union Line boats, and a French gunboat.

The Quinta da Vigia is a beautiful garden of tropical shrubs and flowers, in which it would be a pleasure to remain. But, then, the vegetation of the whole island is luxuriant, In addition to such delicious tropical fruit as the mango, the banana, and the guava, peas and beans and potatoes are plentiful. The strawberry is also in abundance, but it was too late in the season to get any. THROUGH SOUTH AFRICA. The island ponies are very sure-footed, and in this lies your safety and comfort. Down we rode the precipitous streets, or rather steep lanes, without a spill or even a slip, and, clattering into the town again, made noise enough for a company of cavalry. Some of our fellows galloped rather sharply in some of the principal thoroughfares, and this seemed so scandalous to the Portuguese mind that I saw hands thrown up in horror.

It struck me, and so it did others, that the Delagoa Bay dispute was still rankling, and that it would have given them the greatest possible satisfaction had they been able to kick us off the island. But inasmuch as visitors, in particular English visitors, are their haystack, they very judiciously keep their hands and feet to them selves. Some of the passengers went up in bullock-carts, and returned at the risk of their necks in sledges ; but to those who, like myself, saw no advantage in risking neck or limbs, the ponies seemed more attractive. I should add, however, that the danger in the short rush of the sledge is to some a pleasure. When the two men get fair play to jump on behind, the greatest pace acquired at parts down the steep is about twenty-five miles an hour, and the under-sledging of the basket is often greased at starting to secure the highest speed.

How the people manage to get out of the way, especially with their bullock-carts, and how the skill of the propellers, who keep madly rushing you on by their movements, can manage to pull up for a curve or guide you between laden animals is a subject for wonder. The climate is undoubtedly wonderfully curative. " No European climate," says Mr. Crawford, " has so mild and equable a winter, is so free from chilling winds, sudden and excessive cold ; in no European station are the nights so warm, the noonday sun so little scorching. At no European town is vegetation of all kinds so luxuriant and so lovely ; in no other health resort is such varied scenery to be enjoyed ; and in no climate probably in the whole world is it possible for an invalid to take so much out-door exercise in the course of the year ; in none is dust on the roads so absolutely unknown ; and what is perhaps of more importance than anything else, in none is locomotion, by means of ponies, palanquins, and sleighs, so easy and so suitable to sick persons."

The Cathedral is well worth a visit. It is a cruciform church of flamboyant date, with painted, grained roof, slender pillars, round-headed clerestory, carved stalls, and deeply-recessed western porch with good doorway. The English club is in the Rua dos Inglezes, and is fairly well supplied with books and papers. There are three English hotels, one of which — the Santa Clara — is situated half-a-mile from the beach, and is at an elevation of several hundred feet, from which a splendid view of the town and harbour of P'unchal is obtained. Notwithstand ing, however, its beauty and fertility, there is something of a depressing effect everywhere in Madeira. Movement is so confined, life seems so lifeless, poverty appears normal, and begging whines at every street corner. Perhaps the beauties of the island entail its difficulties.

But the stranger in a passing visit may well leave Madeira with the impression that the gifts of both those islands are in far too great a measure thrown away. TENERIFFE. After a most agreeable run on shore, in really delightful weather, we all returned to the ship, and in high spirits at dinner discussed the incidents of the day. Tourists in these latitudes usually pay a visit to Santa Cruz, Teneriffe, a distance of about two hundred and fifty miles from Funchal. The famous Peak, which rises to a height of 12,180 feet, becomes visible about ninety miles off. When first seen, it looks like a deep bank of haze or cloud in the sky. The outline grows stronger and more defined as you approach, and the slowly moving clouds that hang round the giant mountain may chance to roll away sufficiently to enable you to obtain a view of the shoulder.

It is rare, however, that the whole extent of the Peak is visible, and the probability is that when the lofty ridges of the island itself show up above the horizon a portion of the Peak will be again hidden by cloud. The steamer being a mail-carrier, every minute counts; consequently time did not permit of our visiting Tene riffe or any of the Canary Islands. But to some of our passengers these were familiar enough, and what we could not see ourselves was described to us with much graphic force. With that, needless to say, we had to be content ; but were I going to the Cape again, I would be inclined to spend a week in Teneriffe and the Canaries. They are, perhaps, the most remarkable group of health resorts in the world. At Orotava the scenery is magni ficent. On the east and west it is encircled by ranges of picturesque mountains, descending from the great chain which culminates in the great Peak.

And in the vale there are the relics of a splendid prosperity long since vanished. You see the decaying walls of old palaces which architects and antiquarians have made pilgrimages to gaze upon. They are of wood — the native pine, a tree of such extraordinary durability, that the balconies, although in some cases two centuries old, are in a condition of almost perfect repair. The wood is unpainted, its highly resinous nature serving to render artificial coating unnecessary. Carved in designs partly Italian and partly Mauresque, the balconies are works of singular beauty, the intricacy of their pattern being as notable as the delicacy of their workmanship. The Peak of Teneriffe is ascended from Orotava. The ascent occupies two days, and cannot be made with safety later than September, owing to the mists which surround the shoulder of the mountain in the winter months. But I am wandering from our course. We are now at sea, and the land which seemed but an hour or two ago so lovely is sinking out of sight.

Chapter IV. On Board Ship

We were not to touch at St. Helena or Ascension ; consequently there was no chance of another turn on shore till we reached Cape Town. Being now thrown on our own resources for amusements, we appointed a committee to entertain us. And as there were several old hands on the committee, they made a very good playground of the ship's deck. We had cricket and quoits in the morning and afternoon, and concerts in the evening. The quoits, I should perhaps explain, are thick rings of rope, and they are either thrown on to a peg, or on numbered squares chalked out on deck. It looks an easy game; but try it on board ship in a heavy sea. The " tug of war " is always great fun ; and the " sweep " on the distance sailed excites much interest. The concerts, need I say, are highly popular. What, indeed, in the form of entertainment would not be popular with not a sail in sight, or a peak to break the complete circle of the horizon ?

The steward's band played capital dance music. And to it ladies and gentlemen merrily footed in waltz and polka. One evening the band would play " aft," and the next evening "for'a'd," so that all classes of passengers came in for a share of enjoyment. The electric lamp lighted up the deck brilliantly ; the nights were warm ; and the good ship was speeding swiftly on her voyage. All this put the passengers in gay humour, and there was much laughing and joking at the figures some of us cut in the dance. Those who could, sang — and there were some excellent voices amongst us — or recited, doing anything to amuse ; and one wondered how it had come about that we should be singing in a ship's saloon outward bound for Africa. With songs and dance music the time passed very pleasantly, and we were all loth to separate when the hour came to turn in.