Walks in Algiers and its surroundings

Preface

. MANY books have been written about Algeria, but none, so far as I know, in the English language which profess to be handbooks for the use of the traveller to Algiers and its neighbourhood, with the exception of Murray's "Guide;" and this, embracing as it does a very large area, has naturally not a great deal of space to devote to one city, or even one province. To this work, to M. Piesse's excellent " Itine'raire," to a particularly well-arranged French guide by M. Edouard Dalles, and to the various authors whose works are quoted in the course of the following pages, I am indebted for much valuable information. That I have exhaustively treated all the matters of interest with which Algiers abounds I do not profess. For the antiquarian, for the archæologist, for the historian, for the naturalist, the artist, and the mere lover of the picturesque, it has endless treasures yet unrecorded * but I can, in sincerity, only wish for others as much real plea sure as I have myself derived from walks in and about Algiers.

THE AUTHOR. CONTENTS. CHAP. PAGE I. ALGIERS AS A WINTER RESIDENCE .... I II. ON THE ROAD TO ALGIERS I fa III. ARRIVAL AT ALGIERS. — DULL AND USEFUL INFORMA- TION 33 IV. THE NATIVE INHABITANTS OF ALGIERS . . -49 V. HISTORICAL NOTICE OF ALGIERS "O VI. CHRISTIAN SLAVERY IN ALGIERS 89 VII. THE FRENCH IN ALGIERS 1 13 VIII. ABD-EL-KADER 1 32 IX. AFTER ABD-EL-KADER. — THE KABYLE WAR. — THE EM- PIRE. — THE INSURRECTION OF 1871 .... I54 X. THE FRENCH TOWN. — THE MARKETS. — THE MOSQUE DE LA PECHERIE. — THE GRAND MOSQUE . . .174 XI. THE ARAB TOWN 193 XII. THE MUSEUM. — THE HARBOUR. — THE FORTIFICATIONS. — THE GATES 214 XIII. JARDIN MARENGO. — FORT DES VINGT-QUATRE HEURES. — GERONIMO THE MARTYR. — ZAOUIA OF ABD-ER- RAHMAN 229 XIV. THE JEWISH QUARTER. — THE SYNAGOGUE. — THE CATHE- DRAL. — THE GOVERNOR'S PALACE. — THE ARCH- BISHOP'S PALACE. — THE BIBLIOTHEQUE. — THE COURTS OF LAW 246 XV.

ALSSAOUI FETES. — WEDDINGS. — A NEGRO DANCE . 259 XVI. L'AGHA. — FONTAINE-BLEUE. — MUSTAPHA INFfiRIEUR. — THE ARAB CEMETERY. — THE JARDIN D'ESSAI . . 274 XVII. MUSTAPHA SUPERIEUR. — THE COLONNE VOIROL, AND WALKS FROM THENCE CONTENTS. CHAP. PAGE XVIII. BIRMANDREIS. — THE VALLEY OF THE FEMME SAUVAGE. — FROM BIRMANDREIS TO FONTAINE-BLEUE BY THE ARAB PATH. — BIRKHADEM AND TIXERAIN. — KOUBBA. — THE OSTRICH FARM 306 XIX. FORT DE L'EMPEREUR. — BOU-ZAREA. — FRAIS-VALLON. — BIRTRARIA 321 XX. ST. EUGENE 336 XXI. POINTE PESCADE. — CAPE CAXINE. — THE LIGHTHOUSE. — THE BONE-CAVE. — GUYOTVILLE. — THE DOLMENS. — SIDI FERRUCH. — STAOUELI. — THE TRAPPIST MONASTERY. — CHERAGAS 351 XXII. MAISON CARRIE. — RUSGANIA. — BOU-FARIK . . . 369 XXIII. BLIDAH 387 XXIV. LES GORGES DE LA CHIFFA. — MEDEAH. — BOKHARI. — BOGHAR 405 XXV.

ON THE WAY TO THE DESERT. — BOKHART TO F.L- AGHOUAT 425 XXVI. KOLEAH. — MARENGO. — TIPASA. — TOMBEAU DE LA CHRETIENNE. — CHERCHEL 438 XXVII. MILIANAH. — HAMMAM RIRA. — TENIET- EL-HAD. — THE CEDAR-FOREST 460 XXVIII. KABYLIA. — FORT NATIONAL. — THE PORTES-DE-FER . LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Algiers ........ Frontispiece Plan of Algiers .... At beginning of Volume Arab 51 Moorish Woman 55 Water-carrier 65 Mosque de la Pecherie 183 Arab Street 198 Kasba 207 Mosque Sidi Abd-er-Rahman 242 Interior, Archbishop's Palace 252 Palm Grove at Jardin d'Essai 286 Oasis of Ste. Marie 2^>7 Fountain of Birkhadem 311 Bois-Sacre, Blidah 398 Gorges de la Chiffa 4°8 Cedars of Teniet 4"2 Kabyle Woman 487 Environs of Algiers . . . .At end of Volume PLAN @F ALGIERS

Chapter I. Algiers As

A WINTER RESIDENCE. " All the world is cheered by the sun." Richard HI. i. 2. THE cry is still — they go. " Have you then a climate so detestable that in your land no one can venture to remain during the months of winter ?" asks the ingenuous Frenchman, who knows so little of the world beyond his own immediate surroundings. Truth as well as patriotism leads us loudly to proclaim that this is not so ; that, in spite of the multitudes who quit it, the mother-country is not at any time altogether desolate and deserted — that a few remain behind. Yet it is certain, that year after year, vast and ever-increasing numbers of Englishmen and Englishwomen are to be found, at the first blast of chill October, or the first clinging mist of drear November, turning their backs upon their native land; making the best of their way southward, in search either of health or pleasure j content to sacrifice, for the sake of the sunny skies they hope to find, the traditional but somewhat doubtful comforts of an English winter.

They pass like a wave over Southern Europe, this migra tory horde, possessing themselves of express trains by right B of conquest, filling to overflowing the palatial hotels that look upon the Pyrenees, establishing English laws and customs on the Riviera, and crowding the quaint old Italian cities. For the time has long gone by, when a residence at Boulogne, a winter at Tours, or, at most, a few months' stay at Mont pellier, was considered all that could possibly be desired for our invalids or valetudinarians. Either climates have changed in our days, or modern ideas have made desires less easy to satisfy — at least it would seem, that for sunshine in winter we have to go farther afield than did our fathers ; nor are we altogether sure that Europe itself can satisfy all our demands. Of Italy, for our invalids especially, we are not quite certain.

We have heard of bitter weather at Rome, of snow even at Naples ; we may possibly have felt the "tramontana" at Florence, and have had some experience of marble-floored bedchambers and rooms without fire places. Scoff as we may at the notion of English comforts, we do not care to feel the need of them. Coal-fires that scorch the face while the marrow freezes, may be matter of reproach to us among foreigners, yet we may surely find a fair retort in wood-fires that refuse to give forth any heat at all, and rooms whose terrible dimensions a score of English furnaces would scarcely suffice to warm. Against the win ter climate of the Riviera we certainly cannot find much to say, but it is possible that we may think Cannes dull, pronounce Nice conventional, find Mentone melancholy, and San Remo confined.

Considerations such as these drive us still farther south ward in our " flight with the swallows," and land us in a new scene of life and manners on the edge of another con- SITUATION OF ALGIERS. 3 tinent. Shall we find in Algiers all that we have pictured to ourselves as desirable for a winter residence ? First, as regards climate, the most important of all con siderations for those whose chief object is a " search after sunshine." Algiers is situated in almost the same latitude as Cadiz and Malaga, that is to say, about a thousand miles due south of Paris, and four hundred miles south of Marseilles. It is natural, then, to expect a warmer climate and a more tropical vegetation than are obtained on the northern shores of the Mediterranean, although, indeed, degrees of latitude and longitude seem to have very little effect upon the actual temperature of a place, unless other circumstances are favourable.

For example, within a day or two's journey from Algiers, on the slopes of the Atlas, a climate more severe than any English winter is to be found. Algiers, however, is specially favoured by her position. The conformation of this part of Northern Africa is very peculiar, consisting of alternate mountain ranges and wide plains in lines parallel with the coast. From the sea-shore itself, rises a wooded range of hills, varying from 500 to 1,300 feet in height, called the Sahel. On the seaward slope of this range lie the town and suburbs of Algiers. Beyond the Sahel is the vast and curiously flat plain of the Metidja; behind this the lesser Atlas, capped with snow through some months of the year ; again desert-like plains, and then the Atlas, keeping guard over the great Sahara. Algiers then, with the sea in face of her, and the mountains at her back, has the advantage of both so far as her climate is concerned.

The cold drying north winds, which are so great a scourge of Southern France, are converted by their journey over four hundred miles of sunny sea into a cool refreshing breeze. On the other hand, the burning desert wind, the Sirocco, when it reaches Algiers, which is not often, is cooled and tamed by its transit over the icy summits of the Atlas. In spite of this, during the summer months, it is still trying enough both to animal and vegetable life, but in winter it is rarely felt, and then only in a very limited degree. The winter climate of Algiers is moderate. Dr. A. Mitchell, of Edinburgh, who wrote some interesting papers on the subject in the British and Foreign Medico- Chirurgical Review, gives the mean temperature from obser vations extending through a period of thirteen years to be— For November . . . 66-40° December . . . 60-82 January . . . 59" 18 February . . . 59*01 March .... 60-15 April .... 64-06 May 69-75 He says — " The mean annual temperature more nearly approaches that of Malta than that of any of the more ordinary winter resorts.

It exceeds it, however, by 2°, Malaga by 3°, Madeira by 4°, Rome by 9°, Nice by 10°, and Pau by 13°. The mean annual temperature of Cairo is higher, but its winter is colder than that of Algiers. The excess of the annual mean over that of Madeira depends upon the greater summer heat of Algiers, since, as regards winter and spring, the two places are almost identical. It follows, therefore, that the difference between the coldest and hottest months, and between spring and summer, will be less in the case of Madeira, but the difference between TEMPERATURE OF ALGIERS. 5 winter and spring is less at Algiers, and is indeed less than in any place with the meteorology of which I am acquainted." The temperature steadily rises for one half the year, viz. from February to August, and steadily declines during the other half, from August to February.

There is in Algiers no sudden chill at sundown, such as is always experienced at Nice, and other winter stations on the Riviera — a certain change, of course, there must be, but it is so gentle that even invalids are not in this country afraid of extending their afternoon rambles, or seen hurry ing home, like slipperless Cinderella, if the clock has already struck the hour of return. " It is the evenness of the temperature even more than its mildness which makes its charm. Eight months of the year — from the beginning of October to the end of May — the weather is delightful, being neither too hot nor too cold. There is no necessity for fires, although every room has a fireplace, which people of European parentage, but who are bom here, sometimes make use of. The country is green, flowers bloom, birds sing, all nature rejoices in life and colour, whilst frost and snow being never seen, it is scarcely possible to believe that it is winter." — Algeria as It Is.

The following is the account of " Days in December," written by M. Fromentin, whose works on Algeria have earned him the title among French people, of the " Poet of the Sahara : " — "Itis almost impossible to believe that the year is dying— for us who are out of doors from morning till nightfall. Day follows day, but the impression created by the one so exactly repeats that of the preceding, that I am unable to distinguish between them. I lose count of time. It is a long drawn-out state of happiness, unknown to those who live in the agitation of our variable climates. Not a cloud — not a breath to disturb the peace of the heavens. From six in the morning to six in the evening, the sun travels calmly across a spotless space whose colour is true azure. He drops into a clear heaven and dis appears, leaving behind him, at the door of his bedchamber, a crimson point like a dropped rose leaf.

Then a light mist covers the foot of the hills as if to hide the transition from day to night, accustoming the eyes to darkness by a tender veil of soft grey. The stars light one by one in the heavens. At first one can count them. Then suddenly the sky is ablaze with them. The night grows luminous as the sunset-glow departs ; and when day is fully ended it is replaced but by a solemn chiaro-oscuro. Meanwhile the sea sleeps in a sleep which for a month has been untroubled, save now and then by the keel of a passing ship. Calm and limpid it lies with the transparency, the immobility, the brilliancy of a mirror. Can this in truth be winter?" — Une Annee dans le Sahel. People learned in such matters prove that a great deal of rain falls in Algiers, that the actual quantity, in fact, exceeds the rainfall of London.

Those who know the climate would scarcely be persuaded that there was not some illusion in the matter, were it not for the long array of figures brought up against them. The notion, in truth, appears perfectly ridiculous, especially when it is remembered that drought invariably prevails in Algiers during the summer months, and that the winter is known as the rainy season. But it must be remembered that the quantity of rain which falls, bears no proportion to the number of days on which it falls, " a fact which has a very direct bearing on the interests of the invalid," says Dr. Mitchell ; and for two hundred and sixty-nine rainy days in London, there would be but ninety-five in Algiers, all days being accounted as rainy on which a few drops fall, and the day considered to consist of twenty-four hours.

The experience of the present writer is, that during January and February of the year 1877, there was one showery day, the rest being all brilliant sunshine. It often rains very heavily at night, coming down like a torrent, or an overturned bucket. But even after this, the earth next CLIMATE OF ALGIERS. 7 morning will be found dry, and the pavements perfectly white. In truth, Algiers, in spite of statistics, must be considered to possess an especially dry climate, and the absence of mosquitoes is a sufficiently good proof of this. " A climate which is at the same time moist and warm, being con sidered more beneficial for a particular class of invalids, there may be a wish to accommodate matters when that of Algiers is called damp. Whether it be favourable or prejudicial to consumptive subjects, winter in Algiers is generally dry and bracing." — Algeria as It Is.

Dr. Mitchell also says — " The climate of Algiers must be considered dry and bracing.' Dr. Shaw, who was chaplain to the English factory in Algiers from 1720 — 30, writes in his travels — "The Tell, or cultivated parts of this kingdom, lying between 340 and 37° N. lat., enjoy a very wholesome and temperate air, neither too hot and sultry in summer, nor too sharp and cold in winter. During the space of ten years that I attended the factory of Algiers, I found the thermometer only twice contracted to freezing point — then the whole country, which was very unusual, was covered with snow ; nor ever knew it rise to sultry weather, unless the wind blew from the Sahara." The class of invalids, or rather of constitutions, to which the climate of Algiers may be considered suitable, are categorized by Dr. Bodichon as follows : — "Algiers possesses a climate favourable — "1.

To persons of a dry temperament. It is found that such are easily naturalised. " 2. It is good for old persons, who are much less liable to pulmonary diseases and catarrhs there than in Europe. " 3. For rheumatic subjects. They are much benefited, if not cured, by a residence of some years here. "4. For lymphatic temperaments. The excess of heat and light 19 advantageous to them, giving them the tone they require. "5. For subjects disposed to phthisis, since disorders of the lungs occur much less frequently than in Europe." Dr. Bodichon, it may be remarked, is looking at the matter rather from the point of view of a French colonizer than an English visitor ; that is to say, he contemplates a residence throughout the year, and not a stay of only a few months. He also gives a list of persons to whom he considers the climate will be prejudicial: — " I. To very corpulent persons.

" 2. To persons affected with hypertrophy of the heart or large vessels. " 3. To those suffering from dysentery and organic diseases gene rally, and especially for all having any malady of the nerves — since the climate increases nervous irritability. "4. To drunkards, who will pay their penalty in sanguineous con gestion and fevers, and for all subject to derangement of their mental faculties." Dr. Bodichon has also an alarming list of the evil effects of the climate, which, it is to be hoped, may only be applicable to residents of long standing, and are not likely to influence winter visitors, for he assures us that — "I. The climate inclines to idleness, and to physical and also moral torpor. " 2. That it incites to violence and ferocity — the wind of the desert, every time that it blows with any force, causing an increase of crime, and leaving behind it a trail of murder and suicide.

" 3. That it produces selfishness by augmenting the personality." This climatic action, according to Dr. Bodichon, is felt by Europeans as well as natives. He says — "It results from an over-excitement of the nervous system and an increase of sensibility to the detriment of reason. The general action of the Sirocco both on vegetation and animal life is parching. It is therefore, the enemy most to be feared for civilization in Algeria. It brings with it the sand which destroys the fruits of industry, and that irritation of the nervous system which is so pernicious to morality." INFLUENCES OF CLIMATE. 9 Dr. Bodichon lays the wild and naturally lawless disposition of the Arabs entirely to the blame of the climate, and is altogether as hard upon the Sirocco, as English philoso phers are apt to be on our own pet evil — the East wind.

For the comfort of winter visitors to Algiers, and the consolation of their anxious friends, it will be well to remember that this pernicious breeze is almost unknown during the colder months. Also it may be some relief to their feelings to hear, on Dr. Bodichon's authority, that " Calvinists and Puritans will be found to resist the baleful effects of this wind better than persons of other persuasions," and therefore advises, " If your colonists cannot be induced to become one or the other, at least try and make them reasonable, and inculcate in them some ideas of moral duty." With reference to consumptive persons — " It is admitted by nearly all French physicians who know the Algerian climate, that a residence in Algeria can ameliorate and even cure consumptive patients. Consumption is a disease belonging chiefly to fair races and to cold countries.

It is best treated by a residence in a warm country, and by means that tend to give the constitution of the dark race." — Considerations sur VAlgerie. Dr. Bodichon. " Of all the means employed to cure pulmonary consumption, the influence of climate is, without doubt, that which has the largest measure of success. With regard to Algiers we would place it in the first rank, both from the mildness of its climate and the beauty of its site. In a northern climate the deadness of nature and damp fogs produce depression. This moral state does not allow of a sufficient reparation of the vital energies, and assists the development of the tubercles." — Bulletin de la Societe de Climatologie Algerienne. Dr. Puzin. Dr. Puzin also says — "The winds of the S., S.E. and S.W. are refreshed by traversing the mountains, and rarely reach us charged with dust.

The Sirocco only blows at rare intervals, seldom lasts more than a day, and is not specially bad for persons with weak chests." He also states — " That the water of Algiers, which is clear, limpid, and very agreeable in taste, is strongly impregnated with carbonate of lime, which is a notably remedial agent in phthisis. Indeed, it is to be remarked that consumption is very little known in countries whose water-supply is strongly charged with this substance." Dr. Mitchell, after patient investigation of the matter, comes to the conclusion that phthisis is a disease con siderably rarer in Algiers than in Europe or North America ; also that other diseases of the respiratory organs are much less frequent. And Dr. Jackson, in his " Medical Climato logy," remarks — "As a resort from the inclement season of northern Europe for persons threatened with pulmonary consumption, Algiers is deservedly in good reputation.

The climate is far from being of a relaxing character : on the contrary, it combines with its usual mildness and equability, a decidedly bracing and tonic influence. Consumptive patients in whom there is a well-marked deposit of crude tubercle may pass one or more winters in Algiers with advantage, under circum stances which afford nature the most ample leisure for repairing the disorganized structure. The sooner the patient is placed under its influence, the more likely is the result to be beneficial. But when the disease has gone beyond what I have mentioned, Algiers is not to be recommended." Indeed, in cases where the disease is approaching its fatal termination, it seems simple cruelty on the part of medical men, to drive the patient away from the loving care of his own family circle, to die in a strange land !

Happily, Algiers has not yet become the resort of this hopeless class of invalid, and the winter-visitor is spared MEDICAL OPINIONS. 11 the sad sights and harrowing scenes which he so often encounters at Mentone, and other health-stations of the Riviera. The class of invalids who chiefly frequent Algiers are persons affected by asthma, bronchial affections, and rheumatism, and these, who would be sufferers in their own land of fogs and damp, can, in the pure sunny climate of Algiers, scarcely be classed under that heading. " There is a health-giving influence in a bright atmosphere and cloudless sky which is not fully appreciated. Light has a higher power in the functions of the animal economy than we are apt to think, and proofs are not wanting. Deprive the tadpole of its influence, nourish it as you will, and it will remain a tadpole still.

But it is in the vegetable kingdom that we have the clearest manifestation of its working. In plants we find the secretions developed in greater per fection according to its intensity. Deprived of it, we find them flowerless, fruitless, and with small and stunted leaves. Had we no other proof, we should be authorised in inferring that that which is so potent on vegetable life, is not inert on animal life. The physiology of the two kingdoms is ever more or less closely associated, and that which stimulates the flower to expand its petals, giving as it were a welcome to the vivifying influence, is also, though perhaps more obscurely, a stimulus to man. " Every man has experienced the gayness and brightness of spirits which a clear sunny day produces, and no man who has known the horrors of a London fog will be unable to paint the reverse of the picture, but it is a question if this bright, mental atmosphere which comes from a bright physical one, is not the direct result of its stimu lating action on us simply as animals.

Life within us is intensified, and the mens sana is tinged with the impressions of the corpus sanum." — On the Curative Value of the Algerian Climate. Dr. A. Mitchell. There can be no doubt that the first, the chief, the ever present charm of Algiers is its beautiful climate. At the same time, again to quote Dr. Mitchell's pamphlet — "No climate is perfect, and the invalid who seeks Algiers expect ing to find nothing but uninterrupted serenity will be disappointed. Bad weather occurs there as elsewhere ; but, on the whole, figures and experience justify me in saying, that few climates are superior, and more likely to benefit that class of patients who seek for health in a more genial temperature, and a less cloudy atmosphere than our own.' Before quitting the medical atmosphere it would perhaps not be out of place to mention some small matters of hygiene, which are recommended by physicians to travellers in this as in other warm countries.

It seems perhaps superfluous to say, Do not walk out in the burning sun without an umbrella; but it would be well for English travellers to remember, that an um brella cannot be spared them as an article of dress in Algiers any more than in their own country, though its use is somewhat different, and to observe how thoroughly the natives, who understand these matters, shelter their heads from the fierce African sun. Smoked glasses, but not blue, are also recommended for the eyes. " The diet of the European in Algiers," says Dr. Bodichon, " should be tonic." For persons disposed to consumption he advises plentiful feeding on meat, fish, oysters, lobsters, and other substances containing iodine, and the use of port-wine or claret as a beverage — tea being avoided, " since it increases perspiration."

Time to be spent in Algiers from the end of October to the first days of June. This, with a general recommendation of air, regular gentle exercise, and sun-baths, he believes would in most cases be found efficacious. For he says, in conclusion " Cure should be sought by hygiene rather than by physic. Con sumption is a constitutional disease, and constitutions cannot be changed by physic, though they may be modified by hygiene." HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 13 As a pleasure resort — as opposed to a health resort — Algiers can certainly not presume to rival her opposite neighbour, Nice. For those who are lovers of nature, who drink in the beauty of a glorious landscape with delight, and find a charm in the quiet pleasures of the fields and lanes, Algiers has, indeed, an exhaustless store of attractions.

In the ever-changing yet changeless beauty that meets him on every side, in the glowing colours of sea and sky, in the luxuriant wealth of wild-flowers that grow in his path, in the interest and mystery that cling about the Eastern people among whom he is suddenly plunged, the traveller who is a lover of the picturesque, who has anything of an artist's eye — though he, maybe, lack the artist's hand — must surely rest content. He can scarcely be able to regret the promenade — which is not ; the shabby little Hyde Park in miniature — which is not ; the Parisian toilettes — which are not — and other de lights which Nice offers to the votaries of fashion. Perhaps it would not be too much to say that at Algiers, fashion is not. There are wonderfully few French visitors at Algiers ; those who come, invariably pronounce the place to be triste, and complain that there are no distractions.

There is a fairly good opera given three times a week during winter, but the absence of the promenade and the toilettes is an insuperable objection to French enjoyment. In truth, Algiers is being gradually taken possession of by the English ; the hotels are filled with English to the exclusion of other nationalities; the pretty villas of the suburbs are during the winter months occupied entirely by English. Several English families have residences to which they return year after year for their winter season, forming what is beginning to be known as the English colony. There is, therefore, a certain amount of quiet gaiety always accessible to English visitors, for the national colony of Algiers seems to be possessed with a more sociable and friendly spirit towards strangers, than is usually put to the credit of English people, and Lieutenant-Colonel Playfair, the English consul, sets the example of geniality and kindness.

It may be as well to state, for the sake of those visitors who wish to enter into society in Algiers, that the foreign custom prevails, of new arrivals being expected to call on the older inhabitants. General Chanzy, the Governor, following the example of his predecessor Marshal MacMahon, distinguishes himself by his hospitality towards English winter visitors. The Pr.fet of Algiers has lately married an English lady. Small subscription balls are not infrequent among the visitors at the Hotel d'Orient, and, although unmarried ladies under thirty, and gentlemen whose dancing powers are not impeded by asthma, are at a premium, the English colony, and the English birds of passage manage to keep themselves tole rably well amused. Perhaps among the attractions of Algiers it would be a mistake to omit that which fills so large a place in the Englishman's beau-ide"al — sport.