The country of the Passion-play. The Highlands and Highlanders of Bavaria

Front matter

Jimlways Mountains^ R ;„rrs ~^^f*yr~ Second Edition, crown 8vo§ 7e. 6t?. RELIGIOUS LIFE IN GERMANY During iht Mm us gnbtgtnlitxtct. By WILLIAM BAUR. From " The Athenæum.' " There is hardly a sketch in the whole work but is an education to read, and the book, in short., is full of rich humanity, in which few readers will fail to take delight." From " The Spectator." ' ' Au excellent book. We wish it were possible to give extracts which would give our readers any adequate notion of its sterling worth .ind interest. We can heartily commend it to them, specially urging them to read the lives of the Princess William, of Fichte, and of John Fidk." STRAHAN & CO. LIMITED, 31, PATERNOSTER ROW. THE COUNTRY OF THE PASSION-PLAY ORER-AMMEROAL THE COUNTRY OF THE PASSION-PLAY ■Œlje H?ig:^lanD>3 ana l!?i£l)lantierss of Batiaria By L. G. SEGUIN AITHOR OF 'THE BLACK FOREST,' 'WALKS IN ALGIERS,' ETC.

Philostrate. A play there is, my lord. Theseus. What are they that do play ii ? Philostrate. Hard-handed men. Theseus I will hear that play For never anything: can be ainiss When simpleness and duty tender it. —Midsummer Night's Dre STRAHAN AND COMPANY LIMITED 34 PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON AU rights reserved

Preface

. s T is hoped that the present volume may ■*■ have the effect of inducing some few out of the great "many" who will this year be found turning their thoughts and footsteps in the direction of Ober-Ammergau, not to make that now famous village the sole goal of their pilgrimage, but persuade them rather to continue their explorations into the very attractive district of which the Ammergau is but the gate or outpost. By far the greater number of those who were present at former representations of the Passion-Play made a mere excursion of a day or more from Munich for the purpose, and

PREFACE.

. VIII returned artistically satisfied, it may be, and full of praise of the simple manners and earnest faces of the dwellers in the Highland vale, but probably without the smallest idea that some of the most beautiful scenery to be found in Europe had been within a few hours' reach of them, and that they had missed it. Ober-Ammergau is in itself not specially beautiful. The valley in which it stands would scarcely compare favourably with many a Derbyshire glade, or Welsh vale. But it is, as we have said, the gate and outpost to a region which may well claim to be classed among the better known and more appre ciated beauty-spots of the world. It is within two hours of Partenkirchen, and may be said to be within a stone's throw, metaphorically, of the Zugspitze and the Karwendel, two of the grandest mountains of the Tyrolean Alps ; yet not one in a hundred of the English who visited Ober-Ammergau on previous occasions extended their travels so far as to

PREFACE.

. IX embrace any of these points, as is sufficiently testified by the entries in the visitors' books of the village inns of Partenkirchen and Mittenwald. And it is to be feared that the terrible ten dency of the present day towards touristing arrangements, and the extraordinary desire manifested by so many persons to get over the largest possible space of distance in the smallest possible space of time, will aggravate rather than diminish this unsatisfactory state of affairs. . But if among intending visitors to the Ober- Ammergau drama there are some who can resist the prevalent return-ticket, hurry-skurry mania, it is to them that the author would dedicate this little volume, in the hope that it may prove their companion through many days of thorough enjoyment, amid scenes as beautiful as poet ever rhymed of, or artist painted. The most attractive way of reaching the

PREFACE.

. X Bavarian Highlands is the following : — From Cologne to Baden-Baden, the Rhine steamer being taken between Bonn and Bingen ; from Offenburg across the Black Forest, by the remarkably beautiful new Black- Forest Rail way to Constance ; from Constance by steamer to Lindau at the south-east corner of the lake. Our tour across the Highlands begins here. It is continued east as far as Salz burg (Ober-Ammergau being included in the places visited), and the return journey can be made by Munich and Nuremberg, two or three of the other interesting mediæval cities of Bavaria being taken by the way. ■ The whole tour may easily be accomplished in three weeks or a month. The most direct route to Ober-Ammergau is, of course, by Munich. But instead of making either Munich or Ober-Ammergau itself their headquarters, visitors are recommended to choose Partenkirchen, not only for its beauty, but also for its convenience, since

PREFACE.

. XI it has several good and comfortable inns, and is within two. hours' drive of the village of Ober-Ammergau. Arrangements are now made by which the journey from Munich and back, allowing time for the Passionsspiel performance, may be made in one day, but the " day " would certainly be found a very long and fatiguing one. Accommodation in Ober-Ammergau for those desiring it, had better be secured be forehand (p. 228), which may be done by letter or telegram ; and seats for the per formance, costing eight, six, or five marks, should also be engaged some days in advance. The following is the cast of the play : — Christ . . . Joseph Maier. The Virgin Mary . Anastasia Krach. yohn . . . Johann Zwink. Peter . . ■ Jacob Hett. yudas . . • Gregor Lechner. Mary Magdalene . Maria Lang.

PREFACE.

. XII Pilate . . . Thomas Rendl. CaiaphaS . ■ Johann Lang. Herod . . . Johann Rutz. Annas . . . Seb. Deschler. Nathanael . . See. Lang. yoseph of Arimathea Martin Oppenrieder. Nicodemus . . Franz Steinbacher. Rabbi . . ■ See. Bauer. Choragus ■ . Johann Diemer. The days of performance as at present arranged are : — May. June. Ju'y- August. September. 16 64 1 5 23 13 11 8 8 30 16 18 15 12 20 25 22 19 24 29 26 CONTENTS. CHAP. MtE I. historical sketch. . . . . I II. THE BAVARIAN HIGHLANDERS . . .22 III. BAVARIAN HIGHLAND CUSTOMS . . . 36 IV. THE BAVARIAN HIGHLANDS . . . 70 V. LINDAU, THE GATE OF BAVARIA — THE ALGAU— KEMPTEN— FUSSEN . . . .84 VI. FUSSEN — HOHENSCHWANGAU . . . IOO VII. FROM FUSSEN TO REUTTE — REUTTE TO NASSEREIT OVER THE FERNPASS. . . . . 115 VIII. REUTTE TO PARTENK1RCHEN . . .128 IX.

PARTENKIRCHEN . . . . . 1 38 X. THE PASSION-PLAY OF OBER-AMMERGAU . . 165 XI. OBER-AMMERGAU . . . . .207 XII. PARTENKIRCHEN TO MITTENWALD . . 229 XIII. MITTENWALD TO PENZBERG AND TOLZ — THE WALCHENSEE AND KOCHELSEE— THE JACHENAU — LANGGRIES . . . . .241 XIV. TOLZ — THE TEGERNSEE — BAD KREUTH — THE SCHLIERSEE — BAYRISCH-ZELL . . . 25 I XV. ROSENHEIM — THE CHIEMSEE — REICHENHALL— BERCHTESGADEN — THE KONIGSSEE . . 277 XVI. THE UNTERSBERG — SALZBURG . . . 303 XVII. THE CITIES OF BAVARIA .... 315 xvm. THE CITIES OF BAVARIA — continued . . ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE I. OEER-AMMERGAU .... Frontispiece 2. A SENNHUT ON THE ALP . . . . 2J 3. LIFE IN THE SENNHUT . . . . .29 4. THE KAMMERWAGEN . . . . 43 5. SALTING THE CABBAGE . . . . .46 6. LIGHTING THE BEACON . . . . -54 7. BAVARIAN DANCING . . . . . 6l 8.

A BAVARIAN INTERIOR . . . . .68 9. A MOUNTAIN PASTURE . . . . .92 10. HOHENSCHWANGAU . . . . . 107 II. IN THE FOREST . . . . . . 1 35 12. THE ZUGSPITZE FROM PARTENKIRCHEN . . 139 13. THE STAG OF PARTENKIRCHEN . . .148 14. THE PASSIONS-THEATER . . . . 1 84 15. TABLEAU FROM THE PASSION-PLAY . . . 194 16. SCENE FROM THE PASSION-PLAY . , . 196 17. ON THE WALCHENSEE . . . . .243 18. THE KOCHELSEE . . . . . .246 19. BAD KREUTH ...... 260 20. THE SCHLIERSEE ...... 265 21. THE WENDELSTEIN ..... 268 22. THE INNTHAL AT BRENNENBURG . . . 275 23. FRAUENWORTH (CHIEMSEE) .... 278 24. REICHENHALL ...... 2S2 25. BERCHTESGADEN ...... 290 26. ON THE KONIGSSEE ..... 299 27. THE KONIGSSEE . . . . . . 301 28. SALZBURG . . . . . . .307 29. BURIAL-GROUND OF ST. PETER, SALZBURG . . 31

Chapter I. Historical Sketch

There is no part of the far - reaching Fatherland — perhaps it would not be too much to say there are few districts of Central Europe — which to lovers of the picturesque in all its forms present attractions of a more varied kind than does the little forestand mountain-girt kingdom of Bavaria ; a region including within its borders at once the quaintest and most interesting cities of mediæval Germany, the art-treasures of modern palatial Munich, and the gloriously romantic scenery of the Northern Tyrol. It is through these secluded mountain-valleys, and amid the mazes of these old-world Bavarian cities, that we would now invite our readers' com pany; but before setting out upon our travels it will be well perhaps to consider what manner of people they are among whom we propose to wander. A brief glance first at the history of Bavaria.

We first hear of Southern Germany from the Romans, who overran it, and subduing a Celtic race of people whom they found there, and who were known by the name of Boii, parcelled it out into provinces of their all-absorbing empire. The Tyrol became Rhætia ; the country between the Iller and the Inn, Vindelicia ; and the land lying wiat of both, Noricum. In these provinces the Romans erected strong holds, which they connected with one another, and with Italy, by stone high-roads. Among the chief camps, or stations which they established, were Augs burg in Vindelicia, and Salzburg in Noricum. They protected the shores of the Danube against the incursions of the German barbarian-tribes by a series of fortifications, each one of which was to form the nucleus of a new town : such, for instance, were Regensburg and Passau.

During the reign of the Emperor Trajan, a wall was built along the course of the Rhine, from the Lake of Constance to Mayence ; while his successor Hadrian built another wall from Mayence to Kel heim on the Danube, thus setting up a complete line of defence between the two rivers. In spite of all these precautions, however, the irrepressible barbarians broke through, and overleapt the barriers thus arbitrarily laid down to arrest their progress ; and at the time of the dissolution of the Roman Empire we find four great Teutonic tribes spread over the country which extends from the Danube to the Alps, and from Vienna to Augsburg. These four tribes came to be known collectively as the Bajuzvarians, and from this stock the Bavarians of the present day claim a direct descent, — there being with the Teuton element a considerable admix ture both of Celtic and Italian blood ; a fact which is constantly forcing itself on our notice in the southern portion of the country, amongst the rugged Alpine valleys, where, no doubt, the original possessors of the plains were driven by their northern invaders ; a fact whicli physically and mentally distinguishes the Bavarian from the German proper, and marks him as of a distinct and separate nationality.

A stout and sturdy race were the settlers in the fruitful plains and mountain-valleys of Southern Germany ; a people apparently well satisfied with the lot which had fallen to them, well determined to hold their own in it, and well able so to hold it. The mighty Franks who subdued so many tribes and assimilated so many races, found themselves opposed to no mean foe in the Bavarians, — a people as proud and as independent as they. From time immemorial the Bavarian tribes had been governed by their own chiefs, or, as they afterwards came to be called, Dukes, elected in the first instance by vote from amongst themselves, but whose office subse quently became hereditary. Several of these made their mark on the early history of Europe. The first of whom we know much was Garibald I. (554 — 595), who formed an alliance with Autharis, King of Lombardy, against his powerful neighbours the Franks, and the romantic story of the heroic young king's marriage with Duke Garibald's daughter, whom he wooed and won in disguise, forms a favourable subject for early German verse and legend.

The period of these early Bavarian princes, who are known under the dynastic name of the Agilol fingers, was chiefly marked by the introduction of Christianity into Southern Germany, or rather by its revival, for in the days of the Romans St. Seve rinus had planted the Cross on the banks of the Danube, and sat in judgment, like a second Jonah, on the vices of the effete Empire. But during the troublous times of the barbarian invasions, the light of Christianity had become extinguished here as elsewhere throughout Europe, the vigorous Teutonic tribes bringing with them a religion which, if some what less debasing and sensual than the old idolatry of Greece and Rome, was fierce, and wild, and dark enough to suit the fierce times in which they lived, and the dark deeds with which their paths of conquest were for the most part stained.

The Franks were, as we know, Christianized so early as the days of Clovis, but it is not until the end of the seventh century that we hear of any light breaking in upon Southern Germany. Then Rupert, Bishop of Worms, being persecuted by his own people, on account of his piety and the severity of his life, was invited by Theodo, Duke of Bavaria, to his court. He was received at Ratisbon, the chief town of the country, with all honour, and in the year 697, Theodo was baptized, together with all his family and many of his followers. Rupert was made Bishop of Salzburg, a city which had already, under its Roman name of Juvavia, contributed to the noble army of Christian martyrs, and which was at this time being raised from the ruins into which it had fallen. Theodo enriched the see of Salzburg with many splendid donations, built churches and endowed monasteries there, and laid the founda tion of the first of those ecclesiastical principalities which were afterwards to grow up rankly all over the soil of Southern Germany.

But the greatest and most successful evangelizer of Germany was undoubtedly the Englishman Wini fred, known as St. Boniface, who having obtained a special permission from the Pope to go out among the barbarous heathen to convert them, devoted and finally sacrificed his life to this end. He established the bishoprics of Regensburg, Freising, Passau, Wurz burg, and Eichstadt, over the whole of which, as well as over Salzburg, he held rule in his office of Arch bishop of Mayence. He was a devoted Papal servant, and did more to raise the ecclesiastical power in-' Germany, and to bring that country under Papal dominion, than any other person ; but he was himself a man of simple mind and conscientious piety, as was evi denced by his voluntary abandonment of power and place, to engage in a fresh mission among the heathen Frisians, at whose hands he met his death.

This was in the year 75<l For a space of over two hundred years the Bavarians maintained a somewhat unequal struggle against the ever-growing power of the Frankish kings, until at length, in the days of Charlemagne, — the great Charles, as the Germans have it, — the then reigning Duke, after a stubborn resistance, was deposed and shut up in a monastery for life, while Bavaria became merged in the mighty Empire which Pepin had founded. Was it as some consolation to the injured feelings of the Bavarian people, one wonders, that the legend of Charlemagne's birth on Bavarian soil was so widely circulated and so freely accepted in Southern Germany ? Various places claim the honour of having given the first welcome to the great Frankish conqueror, but the following is the received Bavarian version.

Pepin the Little, the Frankish king, having heard of the beauty of Bertha, daughter of the Duke of Bavaria, desired his chamberlain to ask her for him in marriage, and to bring the maiden forthwith to his court, which he was holding at Wiehenstephan, near Freising. The chamberlain, however, possessed a daughter not unlike, it was said, in face to the renowned Bertha, for whom he coveted the position of queen ; and he craftily sub stituted her for the betrothed maiden, causing the king's marriage with his own daughter to be cele brated with great pomp and rejoicing at Wiehen stephan, while the hapless Bertha was committed to the care of a certain miller, a creature of the false chamberlain's, whose lonely cottage lay buried in the midst of a dense forest, which at that time stretched southwards from Munich to the snow range of the Alps.

Here the chamberlain thought to put the beautiful Bertha to death ; but either he grew confident as to the certainty of her complete concealment, or else her youth and gentle ways won the hearts of those whose task it should have been to complete the wicked scheme. In whichever case, Bertha was suffered to live on, and a few months later met her fate, or rather King Pepin, who had come on a hunting expedition into Bavaria, and losing him self in the forest, had sought and obtained shelter, during a storm, in the miller's hut, the Reismiihle, as it, or rather the hamlet that has risen about the spot, is called to this day. In the miller's cottage, then, the king for the first time came face to face with his betrothed wife, the beautiful Bertha, whom he recognised at once by the marriage ring which he had sent by the hand of the false chamberlain, and which this un principled person, by one of those curious oversights common to criminals, had omitted to take possession of.

King Pepin was not long in claiming his bride, nor in taking vengeance on those who had so cruelly deceived him. He at once applied to the Pope for a divorce from the wife thus uncere moniously thrust upon him, while he, in the mean time, banished that unfortunate lady to a convent, and put her father to death. During all these proceedings, however, the king, for some scarcely discovered reason, allowed the beautiful Bertha, his true wife, to remain at the humble shelter of the miller's cottage, and thus it came to pass that the future conqueror of a new empire — the great Charlemagne — was born at the Reismiihle, in the little Bavarian village, on the banks of the Wurm ; now a favourite holiday resort of the townsfolk of Munich, and a station on the little line of railway which leads from that capital to Lake Starnberg (page 208).

Charlemagne, wherever born, proved himself a wise and beneficent ruler in Bavaria, as elsewhere. He made roads and encouraged commerce ; he built bridges and endowed schools. The schools and monasteries of Chiemsee (page 280) and Tegern see (page 258) owe their origin to him, and many churches in different parts of Bavaria date from his time. After the death of Charlemagne, Bavaria was governed by one of his grandsons, whose successors bore the title of Markgraf, or knight of the border, and found their office no sinecure, in pro tecting their country from the constant incursions of the Huns and Bohemians, and other unruly peoples on the eastern frontier. In 920 the ruling Margrave was made Duke by the Emperor, and in 955 the Duke of Bavaria joined with the Emperor Otho I. and the Duke of Franconia, and gained near Augsburg the great victory over the Huns which finally saved Germany from the inroads of that barbarous people.

But the history of Bavaria during the Middle Ages is chiefly occupied by the quarrels of its rulers with their liege lords the emperors, and with their various schemes and intrigues to obtain independence, or even the supreme power. In 13 1 3, Lewis, Duke of Bavaria, was elected to the imperial crown, and held it through a troublous reign of thirty-four years ; at one time, however, being compelled to share his honours with a rival, and at another being excommuni cated by the Pope, whom he in his turn deposed, elevating a creature of his own to the Papal dignity (Nicholas V.), by whom he was solemnly crowned with the iron crown of Lombardy at Rome. Lewis was at length set aside by the electors, and died, not without suspicion of poison. He aided the French in their war against Edward III. of England.

In the meantime, however, through all the intrigues and disputes of her princes, the people of Southern Germany throve and multiplied. It was the policy of the early German emperors to encourage the building of towns, and to foster the independence of the people as a balance to the power and arro gance of the higher nobility ; and nothing is more remarkable as a result of the activity of the Middle Ages in Germany, than the growth of the civic power. The cities were of two kinds, the ecclesiastical and the free or imperial ; the former growing up about some famous church or monastery, and becom ing the actual inheritance of the reigning Prince- Bishop ; the latter being self-contained common wealths of free and independent burghers, protected by charters and decrees, and owning no allegiance save to the Emperor himself.

Of the former class, the ecclesiastical, we have, in Bavaria, Wurzburg, Bamberg, Passau, Eichstadt, etc. ; of the latter, Nurn berg, Augsburg, and others. In addition to these, certain other towns, or small tracts of land, were the private property of independent princelings ; such, for example, were the towns of Baireuth and Ansbach. In short, when all deductions are made, and all private and public rights considered, it seems difficult for us to understand what remained to the ruler of the country, except the name of Duke. Yet some power and some certain means of aggrandizement surely were left to him, for the dukedom of Bavaria had always a felt weight in the Empire. Also we might be led to wonder how, amid conflicting interests and jarring elements, the country prospered, as during the later Middle Ages it did, were it not for one circumstance, viz., the peculiar advantage of its posi tion.

It was the high-road from Italy to Germany and the north of Europe, the channel by which, during the time of the great Italian republics, the commerce, the art, and the civilization of the south found their way, so far as they did find it, to the world north of the Alps. And as the com merce of the world travelled slowly northward, along the roads which the old Romans had made, it left some portion, at least, of its wealth at the roadside stations through which it passed. This is the actual history of the cities of Central Germany. When maritime enterprise developed, and com merce took to waterrather than to land travelling, the power of these cities declined, their glory faded, and no royal road to wealth has in these modern days been discovered for them. In common with other States of Europe during the Middle Ages, the confines of Bavaria were always shifting; now extending over Suabia and advancing westward to the Rhine, now stretching over the Tyrol to the borders of Italy, now including the duchy of Austria, now trenching on Hungary; but during all this time it never included territory north of the Danube ; Regensburg, on that river, being at once its chief town and northernmost boundary.

And this portion of the kingdom ex tending from the Danube to the Alps, is still known by the title of Old Bavaria, and in many ways — in purity of race, in religious and political views, and in conservation of old forms and modes of thought — its people still form a distinct and separate community. It was not until the early part of the seventeenth century that the northern half of modern Bavaria was added to the Duchy. This was in the time of Maximilian I., a prince who raised his Duchy to a higher position among the States of Germany than it had ever previously occupied. Maximilian had as his general the renowned Tilly, who had been a page at his court, and whose merits he early recognised. In the religious wars of these times he threw himself warmly into the Catholic cause, and it was for the important victory which he and his successful general won over the Protestant army of the Elector Palatine, that Maxi milian received the increase of territory and the honour of being made one of the seven Electors of the Empire.

Tilly brought the Bavarian army to a great pitch of excellence, and at their head gained victory after victory over the most renowned generals of Europe. He was destined, however, to succumb before the irresistible power of the young Swedish King, Gustavus Adolphus, who as the champion of Protestantism, invaded Germany and made Ca tholic Bavaria one of his chief points of attack. Tilly met his death in front of the Swedish army, and Gustavus shortly afterwards made a triumphal entry into Munich. In the beginning of the eighteenth century, Bavaria joined cause with France against Germany and England, and shared in the defeat which Marlborough inflicted upon the Allies at Blenheim. From that time down to the present, Bavaria has oscillated between her two powerful neighbours ; now leaning to one side, now to the other, as interest seemed to dictate, and suffering all the horrors of war, in turn, at the hands of each.

For ten years after the battle of Blenheim, the Elector and the remnant of his forces served in the French army, until the Duke was reinstated by the Peace of Utrecht in 17 14. In 1796, Bavaria was invaded by the French under General Moreau, who occupied her capital. In the next war, however, between France and Austria, Bavaria sided with the former power, and continued the firm ally of Napoleon — the Duke being by him raised to the Royal dignity — until 181 3, when, Napoleon's star being on the wane, and all her late acquisitions assured her by the Allies, she joined their cause, and considerably aided in the fall of her late patron. In 1803, Bavaria had acquired a considerable ac cession of territory and wealth by the abolition of the Prince-Bishops and the confiscation of the eccle siastical property.

In 1S18, Maximilian I. granted a somewhat re stricted constitution to Bavaria ; while at the same time serfdom was abolished, and religious liberty secured to all denominations of Christians. Maximilian was a prince of amiable disposition and refined tastes ; and under his rule, not only were the foun dations of political and religious liberty established, but schools and universities, arts and manufactures were encouraged, and the country generally raised to a more flourishing condition than it had enjoyed for many years past. But the most remarkable Sovereign that Bavaria has known, was the son and successor of Maximilian, Ludwig I. (1825 — 1848). Ludwig, following in his father's footsteps, set himself to raise the mental tone of his countrymen, and especially to counter act, and, if possible, efface, all traces of the French influence which had so long weighed upon the Bavarian modes of thought and social life.

He exerted himself to the utmost to restore to the Bavarian people the traditions of their almost lost or forgotten nationality. He expended considerable sums of money in restoring national monuments, such as the cathedrals of Bamberg and Regensburg. He erected, at enormous outlay, a magnificent Walhalla (page 333), or Pantheon, to German celebrities, and raised monuments to various German or Bavarian men of note, in different parts of the country. But the great work of his life was the embellishment, or indeed, we might say, the creation, of the city of Munich, which he found a dull, plain, and unimportant provincial city, and which he trans formed into a city of palaces, and a museum of the world's art-treasures. Of this, more in our notice of the Bavarian capital. Ludwig's artistic and classical tastes, as well as his genuine patriotism, led him to sympathize very strongly — with other noble spirits of his day — in the patriotic efforts of the Greek nation to throw off the crushing tyranny of their Turkish conquerors.

The King of Bavaria threw himself so heartily into this cause, that when Greek in dependence was finally secured, it was upon the head of his son Otho that the crown of the new kingdom was first placed. The choice might not have been altogether happy, yet at the time it certainly seemed a fitting one. But Ludwig, who was a man of benevolent character, and of high mental attainments, was, after all, more of a savant or a dilettante, at heart, than a king ; and in the latter part of his reign, the cares of govern ment amid the march of modern ideas, and the influx of burning social and political questions, weighed upon him and saddened him. As a consequence of the French Revolution of 1848, a current of strong political agitation ran through Germany, and engulfed in its eddying circles the learned, gentle-hearted king, then grow ing old, who could but look out in amazement from the heights of his intellectual seclusion upon the scene of wild uproar which the country pre sented, and wonder what his people wanted more than he had given them — the means of the highest artistic training, and the best affections of his heart.