Travels in India and Kashmir

Chapter I

Departure from Madras — Passengers on board the ' Eliza' — Pilot-ship — The monsoon — Imminent danger — A strange cry from the sea — The Lieutenant's conduct — Fate ofthe 'Maria' — Peculiarities of our Lieutenant — Conduct of the Captain . 1

Chapter II

Calcutta — City of palaces — Fruits — Fish — Inhabitants — Annoyances from servants — Disagreement with boatmen — Boat agents- — Portuguese mixed blood — After many discussions, I proceed up the Hoogly — Serampore — Bahlpore — Chandernagur — Chinsurah — A Munschi — Nuddea — Indian children speaking English — Difficulty of inducing a boy to enter my service — Arrival in Murschedabad . . .25 CONTENTS. IV

Chapter III

Departure from Murschedabad — Gour — Rhadjmahal — Chumars — Character of the Bengalese — Exaggerated dangers of the jungle — Disappointed in my expectations of a hunt — Riding on an elephant — Reports about wild men — Their manner of hunting — Honest magistrates — English rule . . . .45

Chapter IV

Boglipore — Indian silk — Pather Gotta — Mahometan cloister — Hindoo temple — Patna — Burning the dead — Hindoo boy at his father's pyre — Burmese boats — Dynapore — Hindoo boatmen . . . .56

Chapter V

Benares — Its sanctity — Supported by Schiva's trident — The Ghats — Female bathers — The fakirs — The houses — General appearance of the citv — Aurungzib's mosque — Brahmins at the Ghats — Ablutionary rites — Situation of my house — Its interior — The Academy Vivalaya — Mr. Rivaz — The Rajah's palace at Ramnagur — Visit to the palace — Apes — Portraito f Queen Victoria in the palace — The Rajah's father — Temple at Ramnagur — Gardens . . . . .65

Chapter VI

Old Buddha temple — Architecture — Ornaments — Lacquer ware — Rahl, or resin — Saqua Daraght Dessekatel oil — Change of servants — Annoyances CONTENTS. V from my Munschi — Charges of fraud — A young Brahmin — Impertinence of my landlord — Departure from Benares — Bulba — Djnanpor — I take up my lodgings in a Serai . . . . .98

Chapter VII

Djnanpor — Inscription — Kheta Serai — Schagunj — Boy, or Bovi — Schahguno — Schilalpur — Bazaar — An armed man — Dane — Altafgunj — Sugar-baker — Bexungunj — Adjuddhya — Aurungzib — Rajah — Temple — Tolerance of the Indians — Bazaar at Adjuddhya — Metal vessels — Nuray — Ways of gaining money ........ 107

Chapter VIII

Lucknow — House — Resident — View from windows — Iman-barah — The Iman-barah at Hussynabad — Bagh dil Kusca — Sanna Kuna — Gardens — Ships — Horses — Throne-room — European lady — Royal procession — Mahometan festival — Knight in armour — Breakfast with the Resident — Breakfast with the King — Spectacle — Fencers , . . .128

Chapter IX

Rajah Saxarem's gold plates — Agra — Citadel Palace — Summer apartment for the ladies — Demolition by the English — Lord Hastings — Bishop Heber — The Taj Mahal — Description of this building ■ — Depredations committed on the Taj Mahal — The aggressors — Former splendour of Agra — Tomb of Iman Dawla VI CONTENTS.

Chapter X

Secundra— Ackbar's monument — German missionaries —Government schools — Traffic in children — Slave trade — Erroneous attempts at making converts to Christianity — Horrors of famine — Thoughts upon the duty of government to the nation in times of distress — Lord Ellenborough 191

Chapter XI

Futtehpoor— The house of Byrber's daughters — Schaykh Suleim Thchisti — Ackbar's wife — Moyen-ud-dein — Jehanghir's account of his birth — Ackbar's chess-board — Elephant gate — Elephant tower — The young archer — Bacharath Alii — Story of the brilliant — Byrber and the elephant — Jehanghir's two wives — Nurjehan — Afkan Khan — Anecdote of Yudbay — Arrival of my baggage — Departure from Futtehpoor , 197

Chapter XII

Bhurtpoor — The Lord Sahab's Son — The Rajah — The Emperor of Delhi — Lord Ellenborough — Plundering of Bhurtpoor— Mathura — Krischna — Mosque built by a parasite of Aurungzib — Bindraband Gundsche — Govenda — Ridge of rock supported by Krischna — Badschapur — Robbery in Kotilla — My purse stolen ........ CONTENTS. VII

Chapter XIII

Delhi — Early recollections — The public buildings — Sad story . 226

Chapter XIV

Women — Affianced brides — Early marriages — Immorality — Kozumpur, or Kajikapur — Thanahdar — Complaints against the English Government — Hartwar — Tiger hunt — Bravery of my attendants — We abandon the chase — Tiri — Rajah — Presents — Musk-sack — Inhabitants of the mountain districts — Bears — Musk-deer '.229

Chapter XV

Traces of a bear — Preparations for a huDt — We discover the game — Comical ideas associated with bears — A fresh expedition in search of game — Encounter — Apparent death of the bear — Fresh attack — Pretty maiden on her way to the Madjuli Baman — The village mohna — The rivulet Dhebern — Baudrali — Opium — Tikkery — Terrible affray with the natives 248

Chapter XVI

Arrival in Simla — Communication with the police — Mr. Clerk — Letter from the Maha-rajah — I set out for Lahore — Arrival in Ludiana — I cross the Sutlej — Falour — Phaguara — The Sikh Sawars — Kapurdala — CONTENTS. The Rajah Nehal Singh— Audience costume of the Rajah — Natsch girls — Costume of the military officers — A repast — A draught of brandy — Kapurdala — Gagriwalla — Djundiala — A few words about presents in the East — The rain sets in — I proceed to Amrit Sir 278

Chapter XVII

Amrit Sir — Visit from the Kharidar — Disappointment about an elephant — Visit to Generals AvitabeUi and Court — Present from Scheer Singh — Visit from Fakir Nureddin — Accident to the Fakir — Audience with the Maha-rajah — Costume of«the Sikhs — Hera Singh — Scheer Singh's predilection for watches — The gold sprinkling — Strange occurrence at leaving the Durbar — Evening amusements at General Ventura's and at General Avitabelli's — Hunt with Scheer Singh — Audience at the palace — Kindness of the Maha-rajah — Departure from Lahore . . . .294

Chapter XVIII

General Court — His taste for antiquities — The Kalsas — General Avitabelli's treatment of one — Schaderah — Number of my suite — Beauty of the mountaineers — Rajauri — The Nabob — Site of his castle — Appeals to my medical skill — Bharamgalla — Black bear — Khur, or Mar Khur, the serpent devourer — Strange custom of the village women — My feelings on approaching Kashmir — Appearance of the valley — Resemblance to Dresden ....... INDIA AND KASHMIR.

Chapter I

Departure from Madras — Passengers on board the 'Eliza' — Pilot-ship — The monsoon — Imminent danger — A strange cry from the sea — The Lieutenant's conduct— Fate ofthe 'Maria' — Peculiarities of our Lieutenant — Conduct of the Captain. I embarked from Madras on board the good ship ' Eliza,' which had left England with pas sengers, bound for Calcutta, and stopped on her way at Madras. The monsoon had not yet set in, the weather was beautiful, and the first days vol. I. B of our voyage were delightful. The company on board was numerous, and, excepting myself, consisted exclusively of ladies and gentlemen all fresh from England. Six days passed pleasantly away. Favoured by the wind we made rapid progress, and were already advancing to the mouth of the Ganges, when we became conscious of some atmospheric changes.

The air was dark, and though no heavy clouds were to be seen, the sun was no longer visible, the whole aspect of the heavens was of a sombre hue. Experienced seamen might have divined that these appearances foreboded a change in the weather, perhaps the approach of the monsoon ; but the captain and officers of the ' Eliza ' entertained no such apprehensions. Not only were they undisturbed, but seemed glad to be relieved from the inconvenience created by the rays of an almost vertical sun. A large pilot-ship is constantly cruizing off Sandheads, at a considerable distance out at sea, within sight of the mouth of the Hoogly, in order to furnish ships, bound on that course, with pilots. These ships are appointed by the East India Company, and are provided with experienced seamen. We had met one from which we had taken a midshipman and pilot.

In the afternoon of the day foUowing that on which we took the pilot on board, a steamer bound for Calcutta passed close to Sandheads. The captain and several of the passengers, wishing to shorten the voyage, stepped into the steamer. The ship was now making very little way. The first lieutenant was appointed to take the captain's place, and under the direction of the pdot, to manage the ship. The strangely sombre aspect of the heavens had been dady increasing, and we were at length convinced beyond all doubt that the trade winds had set in, and were likely to be more violent than usual. The weather was growing hourly worse, the sea was in wild commotion, the ship was kept close to the wind, everything indicated an approaching storm, and the monotonous tone in which the midshipman, who was throw ing out the lead, declared the result of his observations, was listened to with momentardy increasing attention.

We were now above Sandheads, near Kedgeree, when the clouds, bursting asunder, descended in angry showers. Many of the passengers who had remained on deck hastened below, resolved to await the event in the cabin. I have been often on shipboard in similar cir cumstances, and am convinced that the seamen need less moral courage in the midst of a storm than do the passengers. The sense of danger is lessened by active occupation ; and the man who feels he can do something, is not whoUy void of hope even in the most imminent peril. It is, in my opinion, always preferable to stare danger boldly in the face ; and I have ever considered the position of theatrical heroines unnatural, who, stationary in a chamber, are informed by somebody looking over a battlement, or through a window, of terrified scenes passing without, of lances glancing, axes striking, heads knocked off, and blood flowing.

A feeling of terror may be awakened by these descriptions ; but looking on the reality calls forth an excite ment in which the sense of danger is lost. Acting on this principle, I remained on deck, feeling some curiosity to know whether it was on the right or the left, head foremost or heels uppermost, that we were to sink into the deep. There are moments in life in which we seem to touch that dark bourne which hems in our mortal existence, and as I stood upon the poop with the pilot and first lieutenant, I felt that such a moment was come for me. The storm was raging violently, the rain poured in torrents, as the pilot, with a serious and almost solemn aspect, turning to the first lieutenant, asked him if he were certain that the depth of water re ported to him was correct, when the last sound ing had been taken, and whether there was more water in the pumps.

Though the answers to these questions were satisfactory, the carpenter offered to ascertain once more the exact depth of the water. The result was soon known, the exact depth was estimated, and the pdot informed the first lieutenant that two courses remained, either of which they could fodow. One was to pro ceed farther on to a place where the river took an easterly direction, and there to anchor ; but to go farther would be impossible. This course however presented some difficulties. We should pass, at a spot that lay within view, over a sandbank, where the water at that time was of a certain depth, but which was every moment decreasing in consequence of the ebb which had set in, so that if we did not get over the sand bank within a few minutes, it would be useless to attempt the passage.

But to reach the spot indicated, working against the stream, it would be necessary to set ad our sad, and the question now was whether the ship could bear so great a press of canvas under such a sky. If the lieutenant would undertake to answer for the ship's capability the pilot was certain of bringing her safely through, but a fadure in the attempt, the straining or breaking of a mast, would be the ship's death-knell. This was one of the chances that remained to us. The other which the pilot proposed was to cast anchor at the left bank of the river, but there we would be exposed to the frdl fury of the approaching storm, nor was it certain that the ship could hold her mooring under such circumstances ; so that, however unpromising the first project appeared, it was still the most feasible, provided that the ship could bear the necessary canvas.

Our first lieutenant was such a man as Marryat describes an English seaman of the genuine old stamp. Thoroughly wed informed about everything connected with the service in which he was engaged, and so absorbed therein that he seemed to be unconscious of any other kind of existence, which was doubtless the reason why his knowledge in ad matters unconnected with his professional duties was much inferior to that of the second lieutenant and the mates — with a liveliness of manner and a warmth of feeling that the English seldom display, the first lieutenant answered the inquiries of the pilot. He was certain of the capabdity of his ship. With tears in his eyes, he exclaimed : " Believe me, my ' Eliza ' wdl carry her sails ; I depend upon her ; she'd do it, she'll do it ; I depend upon her, she has proved through many a blast what she can do."

The maiden of his choice could not desire a warmer tribute of love and tenderness than the worthy lieutenant poured forth in praise of his ship. " If you are certain of this, Mr. ," answered the pilot, " trim your ship, cover her with canvas to the topmost spar ; we have no time to lose, every second is precious." The " ad hands up" of the first lieutenant, caded into action every sailor on board. The boatswain blew his whistle, pulleys darted along the ropes, and every sail was unfurled. The wind whistled through the rigging and blustered in the sweding canvas, the masts bent almost to the deck, and the ship, like some great bird of prey, with outstretched wings, dashed through the foaming bdlows. At every rope stood a man ; a deathlike stdlness reigned throughout the ship ; but distinctly amidst the loud roaring of the storm, the pilot's voice was heard as he gave directions to the helmsman, or the com mand of the first lieutenant as he ordered a rope to be tightened, whilst the monotonous voice in which he who was casting the lead announced the sounding, toned ominously along the decks.

It was easy to read upon each seaman's countenance, that the danger became every moment more imminent, and as we approached the post where the water was shallowest, many a one on board fancied that he saw the sandy bottom of the deep smiling treacherously at arm's length. We had three fathoms and one foot of water under the keel. Success depended upon promp titude and skdl, and scarcely had we reached the spot which we most feared when the peril was already behind us. Every sad and every rope was strained to bursting, and in a few minutes we were again in deep water, and favoured by a sweep in the bank, found ourselves somewhat sheltered from the weather. Indeed, in comparison with the danger which we had already passed, we could almost fancy ourselves in a commodious haven, and as orders were given to cast anchor, a feeling of security and thankfulness pervaded every bosom on board.

This occurred on Sunday, the eighth day after our departure from Madras. The weather became calmer, and continued so during some hours, but a thick falling rain pre vented our seeing a ship's length before us, though from time to time a momentary clearing of this rain-fog, permitted us to look around. The prospect, however, was far from being consoling to persons in our position. We had thrown out but one anchor. It was a heavy and a good one. Our very lives depended upon that anchor's taking hold, and upon the strength of the chain cable. We began to fancy that the ship was drifting, but of this we could not be sure. Some additional fathoms of cable were thrown out, and every preparation made on board that the circumstances required. It is not my intention to narrate the events of each day, but to make a record of circumstances where truth needs not the embedishment of fancy's fairy pencil.

Our position became every hour more critical. On the third day we were of opinion that the anchor had not taken hold, and that we had moved from our first position. The question now arose what was to be done, and here I must remark that the opinion of the pilot, though differing from that of all the others, was correct, as the event proved. Every one else on board believed that the first anchor had not taken hold, and that a second ought to be thrown out. In the ship were two large anchors and three smad ones. The latter could be of no service in our present circumstances. The officers of the ship, as well as the passengers and the crew, wished that a second anchor sould be thrown out ; but the pilot took a different view of the matter, and said that, admitting that the ship drifted a little, stdl as the anchor had now lain three days it must have taken hold.

As to the second anchor, he was of opinion that if the first had not taken hold neither would the second, in which case it would be useless ; but that if the first were firm , there was danger that the second might come in contact with and shake it from its place. Besides straining the cable of the second was not to be thought of, so that in any case we were dependant on the first. As terror wdl not listen to reason, the pilot was obliged to yield, however wed-grounded his opinion might be. He did so with a very good grace, and aUowed the anchor to be lowered on the windward side. The first anchor had been lowered wdth sixty-four fathoms of chain cable, the second with fifty-two fathoms which with the anchor was a very great weight. About eight o'clock on Wednesday, the car penter announced that the cable threatened to snap.

The weather was this day exceedingly bad, and as aU our hopes of security rested on the first anchor, every link of the cable had been examined with the greatest care, and those which did not appear quite trustworthy had been replaced by others. It might be looked upon as an interposition of Heaven, that upon one link, the strength of which was considered doubtful, a rope cable and patent stopper had been fixed, though sailors place little faith in the latter, and generaUy consider it useless. During the night we began to suspect that the ' Lord Western,' the ship lying nearest to us, was drifting, and about eleven o'clock next day our suspicions were confirmed. The cables had given way, and the ship drifted past us, amidst violent rain and a furious storm. In a little time, the ship, stdl within sight of us, presented the appearance of a wreck, but it was whoUy out of our power to think of rendering assistance.

About twelve o'clock, a violent shock an nounced that our cable had given way. The chain was broken, but the patent stopper had kept its hold. A new chain was attached, and many voiceless apologies were made to the patent stopper for previous disrespect. The sea was stdl in wild commotion, and planks and spars, scattered far and wide, bore evidence of the desolation it had caused. On Thursday afternoon, during a short clear ing-up of the skies, a ship passed us so closely that we could recognise the people on board, and by means of speaking-trumpets a communication was estabUshed. The ship was the ' Maria,' coming from Calcutta with a cargo for England. The captain, whose name I forget, had just got married and the bride was on board. The ship was gaily decorated in honour of the new-married pair, and the poop, covered with flowers and odoriferous shrubs, gave to the quarter-deck the appearance of a pleasure-garden.

What a mournful contrast were these nuptial ornaments to the perdous condition in which we saw the ship. And the poor bride ! What were her feelings ? The ' Maria ' had broken from her moorings, had lost three anchors, and the fourth, a smaU one, was stdl on board. Her only hope in such circumstances was to stand out to sea. On her way she passed us very close. We had now been five days at anchor, and during that time had heard many signals of distress, though the weather was such that we could seldom see whence they came. When a short gleam of fair weather allowed us a wider prospect, we had a sad vision of ships stranded or lying at anchor stdl battling with the waves. These bursts of brightness were of short duration ; they sometimes lasted a quarter, sometimes half an hour, after which our view was again circumscribed by a thickened atmosphere.

When once more the lifting of that dark veil permitted us to look around, the fragments of ships thrown on every side spoke but too plainly of the ruin that had prevailed. Masts and spars, chests, utensds of various kinds, beams and planks, were floating in every direction. How natural was it to inquire : " Where are those who embarked with these lifeless things?" Attached to one of the floating masts, I saw a sailor's blue wooUen cap. On the evening of the day that the ' Maria ' passed us, I was sitting with the first lieutenant at a side-table in the great cabin directly before a large oval window. It was past eleven o'clock. AU had retired to rest, except the man who kept watch on deck; the lamps burned clearly, and the storm seemed to have abated somewhat. The conversation between the lieu tenant and myself was carried on by fits and starts, and we had gradually sunk into sdence, each absorbed in his own thoughts.

Suddenly I thought I heard a sound rising from the waters, and a simdar sound immediately follow ing, confirmed me in my beUef. The first lieutenant, who was sitting at the opposite side of the table, and as near to the window as I, seemed not to have heard anything. I told him that I thought I heard a voice amid the roaring of the waves. He said that he had not heard it, that I might be deceived by the varying sound of the wind. We again relapsed into thought, when once more the same tone coming from the sea towards the ship, struck my ear, and I now felt convinced that it was a human voice. I said so to the first lieutenant, and that the cry seemed to become weaker. Anybody who has been on board a ship beaten by the waves, with the wind whistling through the rigging, wdl admit that the human voice. amid such uproar, is scarcely audible.

The lieutenant was positive that I was in error, and that the voice, if one I had heard, must have come from deck. Though convinced of my being deceived, he went on deck, saying that he would order a Bengal-light to be kindled, and a sharp look-out to be kept. When I now look back to this event, it seems to me incomprehensible that I did not accompany the Ueutenant in order to witness the search ; but the events of the last five days had rendered me indifferent to things which at another time would have awakened my warmest interest. The mind after great excitement, suffers a reaction, which often induces a kind of lethargy, and to a feeling of this kind must I ascribe my remaining in the cabin whdst the lieutenant went on deck. I heard the voice of the man on watch answering his commander's inquiries.

I saw the flare of the Bengal-light gleaming through the windows, and I remained tranqudly in the cabin. When the lieutenant returned, he said in reply to my inquiries that I had been mistaken, that if I had heard a voice it must have come from deck. This explanation satisfied me fuUy, and the thing was soon forgotten. The next morning came, but the weather was not better, indeed it seemed worse, ex cept that the moments of clearness were of longer duration, and permitted us to take a steadier view of our companions in misfortune. We saw further down the river, the masts of many ships, of which the position was as perilous as our own. Some were lying on the side, others appeared to be drifting away. The ship ' Lord Western,' which lay nearest to us, made repeated signals of distress, but it was not in our power to go to her aid.

Her masts were washed away, she seemed every moment on the point of going to pieces, and her deck was crowded with people, ad waiting with longing, though almost despairing hearts for relief. On this very day, a steamer appeared in sight. She had been sent from Calcutta, to make a report of the state of the vessels, and to offer help where it was most needed. The ' Lord Western ' lay near us in momentarily vol. I. c increasingdistress. The steamer endeavoured to get near her, but failed. Something in her own machinery gave way, and she was obliged to return and cast anchor. The weather, though' still stormy, was become milder, and on Saturday afternoon an attempt was made to send boats to the nearest wrecks. To the honour of English seamen it must be said, that none are so ready as they to risk their lives for the safety of their feUow men.

So many had offered to go, that when the boats were ready, the lieutenant was obliged to compel some to remain behind. The second lieutenant had the command of the boat, and managed to reach the ship through a heavy sea. When our boat had returned successfuUy from her trip, another ship, the ' Union,' ventured to put out her boats, and even the ' Lord Western ' imitated the example, so that on Saturday evening many of the crew were brought on board the 'Eliza,' and on Sunday the work was completed, the crew and passengers being aU safely removed from the wreck. Who does not raise his heart with thank fulness to Heaven, when, after having lived through the perils of a sea-storm, he finds himself again enjoying the sunshine of a calm summer day. Never did Sunday morning appear to me so lovely ; and before noon our deck was thronged with a busy multitude, aU anxious to find a spot on which to fix a Hindoo kitchen.

The greater number of the soldiers belonged to that sect. Their religious code commands them to eat their meals off the earth, and in order to comply with this injunction, two sacks of clay had been pro cured, that they might be able to fulfil literaUy their religious obligations. The removal of the persons from the ' Lord Western ' afforded me an explanation of the sounds I had heard from the cabin of our ship a few nights previously, and to which I have already aUuded. The cry which I had supposed to be that of a human being, was ready such, and proceeded from the mate of the ship ' Maria,' which had passed us in the forenoon bedecked with flowers. In a few hours that ship became the prey of the waves, and the mate, laying hold of a plank, was the only one of the crew who survived. Beaten about during some time by the waves, he at length reached our ship.

The Bengal-fire was lighted, his cry was responded to ; but when, whilst trying to clamber into the vessel, he told that he was a shipwrecked mariner, he was rudely repulsed, and betaking himself again to his plank, he happily reached the ship 'Union.' Instructed by a bitter experience, he no longer announced himself as shipwrecked, but said that he had fallen overboard, upon which a rope was thrown him, and his life was saved. Once on deck, he avowed who he was, and related how he had been thrust away from the ' Eliza.' If I had not been witness of the fact, I never could have believed that superstition was able to blind men to such a degree. Our first lieutenant and his crew believed that no one could take from the sea that which the sea had once received without bringing misfortune on himself and his ship.

In the course of this day our exceUent lieutenant gave another proof of his extreme narrow-mindedness. Yet I must say the man was not hard-hearted, nor did he appear unfeeling, but he was wrapped in the darkest superstition. Amongst the sailors who came on board our ship from the ' Lord Western,' was one who had an ape. When the lieutenant saw the poor animal, he uttered an exclamation, and declared that it should be sent back to the wreck, that he wished to save human beings and not beasts. It was in vain that the second Ueutenant assured him that there were no more human beings to be saved, our enlightened commander raved, would not listen to any explanation, declaring that the beast, as he caUed the ape, should be sent back at any risk. The ape seemed to be aware that he was a subject of contention, and as the sailors showed no inclination to interfere, the lieu tenant resolved to put his own hand to the work ; but as he made a step towards his chattering enemy, the monkey sprang upon the mast, and mounted nimbly into the rigging.