Saunterings in and about London

Preface

TO THE ENGLISH EDITION. Prefaces, generally speaking, are pleadings, in which authors, anticipating public censure, and well knowing how richly they deserve it, adduce sundry reasons why their books are not shorter or longer, and altogether different from the volumes which then and there they bring into the market. ' I need not make any such excuses, for I did not write for an English public, nor did I ever pretend to popularity in England. The " Saunterings " were intended for the prosit and amusement of my German countrymen; and I must say I was not a little pleased VI

PREFACE.

. and surprised with the very flattering reception which my book experienced at the hands of the English critics. Their favourable opinion, which they so emphatically and — I am selfish enough to go the whole length of the word — so ably expressed, has probably caused the production of the book in an English dress. The critics, therefore, must bear the responsibility, if the general public should happen to condemn these " Saunterings," as " weary, stale, flat, and unprofitable," and shelve them accordingly. Max Schlesinger. London, October, 1853. CONTENTS. THE FIRST PART- CHAP. I. in which the header is introduced to some of the author's friends. — the englishman's castle. . . . . 1 CHAP. II. StrCCt Hist. — CHARACTERISTICS OF THE MASSES.— FASHIONABLE QUARTERS. — HOW MR. FALCON SAID GOOD BYE TO HIS CUS- TOMERS. — THE CROSSING IN HOLBORN. — MOSES AND SON. — ADVERTISING VANS. — TBE PUFFING MANIA, ITS PHASES AND CAUSES. , 12 CHAP. III.

Che Squares.— Einroln's Erm. 25 CHAP. IV. Jtlp the tthamrs. — Faurfjall. — the kivee side. — views or the RIVER. — THE TIDES. — THE BRIDGES. — THE TEMPLE AND SOMERSET HOUSE. — ENTRANCE TO VAUXHALL. — BRITISH DECORATIVE GENIUS. — SOMEBODY RUNS AWAY WITH DR. ICEIF. MAGIC. NELSON AND WELLINGTON. THE CIRCUS. THE BURNING OF MOSCOW. — AN EPISODE AT THE TEA TABLE. CONTENTS. CHAP. V. 5. fj. THE LONDON POLICE. JOURNEY FROM PARIS TO LONDON. — THE POLITICS OF THE FORCE. — ITS MODE OF ACTION ILLUSTRATED. DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE POLICE IN ENGLAND AND ON THE CONTINENT. — DETECTIVES. — ROOKERIES. THE POLICEMAN AS A CITIZEN. . . .45 CHAP. VI. $ctogatc ante its flctgPourijooB. — rivers under ground. — DIVISION OF LABOUR. — EXECUTIONS. THE PEOPLE'S FESTI- VALS. PREDILECTION FOR CRIMINAL CASES. STATISTICS OF NEWGATE.

PATERNOSTER-ROW. SMITHFIELD. SELF-GO- VERNMENT, ITS BRIGHT AND DARK SIDES. . . .58 CHAP. A7II. Street llife.— CTc ISost-ofGcc.— London and the ocean. — now YOU MAY ATTACK THE REPUTATION OF EITHER. — THE METROPOLIS "EN NEGLIGEE." THE POST-OFFICE. THE MODERN LETTER-WRITER. — MONEY ORDERS. PENNY" STAMPS, THEIR USE AND ABUSE. — JOHN BULL AND THE CHANCELLOR OF THE EXCHEQUER. HOW MR. BULL IMPOSES UPON THAT RESPECTABLE FUNCTIONARY-. WHAT IS A NEWSPAPER. THE GREAT HALL OF THE POST-OFFICE AT SIX P.M. 07 CHAP. VIII. Sttnligllt. — iHocmliijfjt. — (Sasligfjt.— the sob and the Londoners. MYSTERIES OF THE FOG. HARVEST MOONS. GAS. HOW THE CLIMATE WORKS. FLANNELS. ENGLISH DINNERS AND FRENCH THEATRICALS. CURRENT PHRASES. 82 CHAP. IX. 5. Ije (E itg Capitol. — the lord mayor's retreat. — the ninth OF NOVEMBER. — CITY PROCESSIONS. — " THE TIMES" AND THE CITY". — THE STOCK EXCHANGE. — A PIECE OF SELF-GOVERN- MENT. — LLOY-D'S. — RETURN TO SIR JOHN, AND SOME OF THE OPINIONS OF THAT WORTHY". ......

CONTENTS. IX CHAP. X. I&goe — pilgrimage to the far west. — oxford-street. — HYDE-PARK IN THE SEASON. — ROTTEN ROW. — THE DUKE AND THE QUEEN. — THE FRONT OF THE CRY'STAL PALACE. — DR. KEIF ENTERS, MAKES A SPEECH ON BRITISH LOYALTY, AND EXIT. — THE IRON SHUTIERS OF APSLEY HOUSE. — THE BRITISH GENERAL AND THE RIOTERS 103 CHAP. XI. 2. lie ©uartets of JFasljion. — the beauties of nature. — fashionable QUARTERS. — LONDON IN 1 752.— ST. JAMES'S PALACE. — PAST AND PRESENT. — PALL MALL. — THE LAND OF CLUBS. — MRS. GRUNDY ON THE CLUBS. — ST. JAMES'S PARK. — BUCK- INGHAM PALACE. — WATERLOO PLACE. — TRAFALGAR-SQUARE. 112 CHAP. XII. Gentlemen an! JFotcigncvs. — one of dr. keif's adventures. — MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF OLD, ENGLAND. —A NEW AC- QUAINTANCE. — English glegcljatjr... — the ordinances of FASHION.

OUR FRIEND'S AUTOBIOGRAPHY. THE GENTLE- MAN'S OCCUPATIONS AND ECCENTRICITIES. — FOREIGNERS. — JOHN BULL ON FOREIGNERS GENERALLY'. STRIFE AND TEACE. 121 THE SECOND PART- CHAP. I. Boiun tfjc Oiames. — river scene at London bridge. — colliers FROM NEWCASTLE. — THE CUSTOM-HOUSE. — THE POOL. — THE DANGERS OF THE THAMES.— AN ENGLISHMAN AFLOAT. RE-APPEARANCE OF DR. KEIF AND MR. BAXTER. BOATING SCENES. — THE THAMES TUNNEL. PRIVATE DOCKS. — HOW ENGLISHMEN BUILD SHIPS FOR FOREIGNERS. — GREENWICH. — OLD SOLDIERS IN ENGLAND AND GERMANY. — HOTELS AND POT-HOUSES. — GREENWICH PARK. ..... X CONTENTS. CHAP. II. 3. fje 3. fjcorg os -Locomotion. — when doctors disagree, etc. — CLIMATE VARIETIES OF LONDON. — LOCOMOTION. — ITS MODES AND DIFFICULTIES. RULES AND REGULATIONS FOR PEDES- TRIANS. — CARRIAGES. — CAB-LAW AND LAWLESSNESS.

CAB- MEN AND WATERMEN. — NOTES OF AN OMNIBUS PASSENGER. DRIVERS AND CONDUCTORS. STAGE-COACHES. METROPOLI- TAN RAILWAYS 154 CHAP. III. Cijc Quarters of Knualtg an U 6o ocrnmcnt. — Whitehall, past AND PRESENT. — DOWNING STREET. — PARIS AND LONDON. ENGLISH AND FRENCH STATESMEN.— -THE DIFFERENCE. — THE ADMIRERS OF FRANCE. — ENGLISH RESPECT FOE THE ARIS- TOCRACY- 171 CHAP. IV. SJHfstminstcr.— JEfje -the abbey.— the hall.— an M.P'S LIFE. — THE NEW HOUSES. THEIR STYLE, CORRIDORS, AND LIBRARIES. — THE SUFFERINGS OF THE PUBLIC. — THE SPEAKER. SIR JOHN AND DR. KEIF IN THE GALLERY. LADIES AND REPORTERS. THE TABLE OF THE HOUSE. THE SERGEANT-AT-ARMS. — PARLIAMENTARY ETIQUETTE. THE TWO HOUSES. DISRAELI. — TALMERSTON. SIR JOHN PRAISETH THE LATTER. — COLONEL SIBTHORP. — LORD JOHN RUSSELL — PUBLIC SPEAKING IN ENGLAND 181 CHAP. V. 3. ijc |3criooicaI Iprrss.— Ets fHceljanism ann Distribution..— the ENGLISH PRESS GENERALLY.

THE " TIMES" AND THE OTHER JOURNALS. — THE EVENING PAPERS. — THE PUBLICATION OF THE MORNING PAPERS. — ANTICIPATION OF NEWS. — SPECIAL TRAINS. — PUBLICATION OF WEEKLY PAPERS. — THE READING PUBLIC. — ADVANTAGES OF WEEKLY PAFERS. — THE PRO- VINCIAL PRESS. — WHY IT CANNOT FLOURISH. — TRANSMISSION CONTENTS. XI OF NEWSPAPERS. THE NEWSVENDERS. — A SCENE IN THE "GLOBE" OFFICE. — YOUNG HOPEFUL, THE NEWSBOY-. — MR. SMIRKINS, THE PARTY-MAN — THE NEWSVENDElt's EXCHANGE. 203 CHAP. VI. ml\)C Sank. — APPEARANCE OF THE BANK. — WANT OF RESPECT IN THE PRESENCE OF PUBLIC FUNCTIONARIES. — THE PUBLIC AT THE BANK. — MYSTERIOUS COMFORTS. — ENGLISH TASTE. — THE WONDERS OF MACHINERY'. A STRANGE LIBRARY. PRINTING THE NOTES. — HIDDEN PALACES. — THE TREASURY. — BAD SOVEREIGNS— DR. KEIF, AND WHY THE ENGLISH KNOW NOTHING WHATEVER OF THE AFFAIRS OF GERMANY'. 217 CHAP. VII.

JFour-anli-t tocntu ©ours at tljc [Times ©slice.— crossing the road. — THE OWNERS OFTHE "TIMES." — ITS SOUL; ITS EDITORS. — DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE " TIMES," EDITORS AND THE " REDACTEURS " OF GERMAN NEWSPAPERS. — THE POLITICS OF THE "TIMES." HOW THEY WRITE THE "LEADERS." SECRETS. — LETTERS TO THE EDITOR. — THE MANAGER'S DEPARTMENT. — -WHAT THE EDITORS DO. — THE PARLIA- MENTARY CORPS. — THE REPORTER'S GALLERY AND RE- FECTORY. — DIVISION, DISCIPLINE, AND OCCUPATION OF THE REPORTERS. — MR. DOD. — THE SUMMARY-MAN. — THE STAFF. — THE PENNY-A-LINERS. — SOCIAL POSITION OF ENGLISH JOURNALISM. 231 CHAP. VIII. 3 jFrmcrjman's potions. — dr. keif at dinner with a FRENCHMAN. MONS. GUERONNAY. — GRAND INTERNATIONAL CONTEST. — AN ARMISTICE. — SIR JOHN SERMONISES.— THE GLORY OF FRANCE AND THE DOWNFALL OF ENGLAND. — SUNDRY REMARKS ON THE OPERA AND THE BRITISH FEMALE; ON ENGLISH MUSIC AND FRENCH POLITICS. — SIR JOHN A TRUE JOHN BULL.— A CONTROVERSY ON THE STAIRS.

CONTENTS. CHAP. IX. ST (je 371)catrical ©uarters. — the theatres. — the poor man's SUNDAY. GROUPS FOR HOGARTH. DR. KEIF AND MR. BAX- TER AT THE OLTMP1C. — TRAGEDY AND COMEDY IN ENGLAND. — MR. AND MRS. KEELEY. — MR. WIGAN. — MR. KEAN AND THE BRIMLEY'S. — METHODISM. A PENNY THEATRE. — THE PANTO- MIMES. THE BALLET. THE STAGE- IN ENGLAND AND GER- MANY. MATERIALISM. DRURY-LANE AT 11-45 P.M. MERRY- OLD ENGLAND. — DRURY-LANE AT 1 A.M 265

Appendix

. CO R RESPONDENCE. Letter I. — sir John to dr. keif ...... 287 Letter II. — dr. keif to sir john THE FIRST PART.