Twelve Years in China. The People, the Rebels, and the Mandarins. By a British Resident (J. Scarth) . With illustrations

Preface

. 1>j the (ibK.-ncu of public infcrms&QTi Hoarding Lite in Obins, flxcepting from pwaow whoee m aid naturally, if not. inevitably, bfi affected b idopb d i'v our Gfv U ieenw : i m the present orisia, to narrate my experience during a resfdeocg of twelve years iq that eountri tlie ojiinions I was led tui'Tm. In thp [jght in Bte appeared ta me, th.- ; a <rer} rlii colour from t.liai tti irbioh they have boou paioted by itliers Tba " Poreigu 1 ■ ■ a .mi i Srai arrival there in L847 trtM euH^Qtaed by the pi me '>t' the r.n Kips forming part of the expedition ied iiy 8ir John Qavu •■< obtain the Fulfliroeni m(' '1 iv.it) -lights. The chief results if that demoi tion were the building if .. lurch i pursooagt-, aorl 1 sag) aghfere called IIoi^ i"i Moi 1 1 ; svere hi bul ■ »it»g <<■ tin t I -> ness of Chinese o&ciali lliey retnained ducatnentAT} Phe pai was blown . the .Jesti'p-ti. i '.hi- !i was I oil© town ! I ill-. 1 Ohioasa when t\n waeuated for the better concantraiion oi the mta] under Sir Miehae] E yiooar; :m<I Hog Lane «■ VI

PREFACE.

. opened over the site of the church, forming a melancholy pathway through the scene of desolation which marked the position of our famous old residences at Canton when I left China in 1859. During the interval many interesting events occurred ; some of these will be described in the following pages. In pursuit of business and health, or impelled by curio sity, I saw more of the country and people than has fallen to the lot of most foreign residents in China. As I give some account of my experience in the following pages, the reader will be enabled to judge whether my opinion is of value. It is quite possible for a person to reside long in China, and yet know very little about it : even the best informed has much to learn. Native society is so constituted, that the people themselves are very ignorant upon many points relating to their country.

I do not consider Government interpreters the best authorities on Chinese affairs ; much of their time is taken up in studying old classics and official forms, and a great deal of their information is derived from native teachers, who are frequently spies of the mandarins. During my residence in China, the empire has been disturbed by two distinct rebellions. Too little atten tion has been paid to these ; the map which accompanies this volume will show how extensive they have been. One body of rebels proclaimed Christianity and the over throw of idolatry, but as their doctrines were mingled with much error, and they pressed their religion by the power of the sword, it is natural that, however much Christian missionaries might hope for good to arise from the movement, they could not approve the acts of

PREFACE.

. VII the insurgents. No attempt was made to remove their errors and to teach them truth ; the Bible they repub lished has therefore been left unheeded among the mass of rubbish by which it was surrounded. Neutrality during the civil war was proclaimed by the British Government, but has not been adhered to. A British plenipotentiary, it must be remembered, had to take into consideration, that anarchy might endanger the vast revenue derived from tea-duties; and that as the Insurgents at first punished opium-smoking by death, the large revenue derived from that source would have been lost had they gained the ascendency. Besides, our late plenipotentiaries have derived most of their information regarding political matters in China from one source. Mr. Wade has been their adviser and interpreter, and he cannot be considered impartial, having at one time held an appointment in the service of the Chinese Government.

Lord Elgin availed himself of the services of Mr. Lay to assist Mr. Wade, though the former held at the time the post in the Chinese service vacated by the latter. I quite approve of the appointment they held in the Chinese service, but regret that Lord Elgin had not other assistance. Our own advantage has been the regulating principle of our policy ; we make exactions when it suits us, and do not enforce them when inconvenient. Our diplomacy has resulted in confusion worse confounded ; we shall have probably now to overthrow a Government which we have been endeavouring to support. The empire is too weak to bear the double evil of foreign invasion and civil strife. Had we been more considerate in our de-

PREFACE.

. mands upon the Government, and tried to do some good to the people, we should now have less to deplore. Little can be said in favour of the mandarius ; the people deserve better rulers. When I first thought of publishing my views on China, shunning notoriety, I intended to let them go forth anonymously ; but I find that there are various matters on which I differ from other writers on recent events, — and that regarding events of such importance, that if any additional consideration can be obtained for my remarks by adopting a different course, it is only right that I should make them openly. I am confident in my own opinion ; and though I have such distinguished men as Sir John Bowring and Lawrence Oliphant as my opponents, I cast these notes upon the general current of public opinion, hoping that if there is truth in them, it may drift into some powerful channel, and lead to greater results than my efforts single-handed are likely to attain.

As it is yet possible that the threatened war with China may be averted, this does not appear to be the time for discussing future operations should they ultimately be necessary. Publicity in such matters should be avoided. When it was considered necessary that Canton should be taken, as I was well -acquainted with the neighbourhood of the city, and knew the style of defence adopted by Yeh when the rebels attacked the place, I made out a plan of the environs, giving roads, elevations, &c, on a large 6cale, described the whole, and the best point of attack to two of the principal officers, and placed the plan in the hands of the authorities,

PREFACE.

. IX taking care to mention nothing of the affair to any one else. The attack was conducted almost in exact accord ance with the plan, and the loss of life, numerically, was very small. A different result might have ensued had the plan been publicly discussed. These frequent wars in China are dangerous ; the Chinese learn the art of warfare by experience. Every succeeding quarrel with them is likely to be more serious than its predecessor, and it must always be borne in mind that their climate is as powerful an enemy as their soldiers. John Scarth Edinburgh, February 18C0. Costumes, Mainland near Hong-Kong " THE PLAN TO PURSUE IN CHINA IS THIS : DARE TO ACT HONESTLY, AND DARE TO TELL THEM TRUTH." Wingrove Cooke. CONTENTS. PAGE INTRODUCTORY NOTICE, .... 1

Chapter I. Silk Districts Of China

Departure from Shanghai—A metamorphosis— Province of Che-Kiang —Variety of boats— Peculiar mode of catching fish— Pro.! population— A hint to high farmers at home— City of Kia-Hing Mulberry leaves— Large factories rare in China — Distrust of assemblages of men— Chinese gambling— The author roughly handled— Reeling of silk — Various kinds — Large exportation — Native manufacture defective — Its antiquity— The wild worm A French sai ant I Ihinese children precociously sedate, 5

Chapter II. Journeys In The Country

Meeting with Mr. Fortune, the Chinese traveller, at Theen-Tung— His good humour and curiosity — Insect-hunting— Promise and disappointment — A priest and pale ale — The Temple in decay — Petty pilgrimages— A laughing devotee— Silk-throwing in the Temple, It;

Chapter III. Journeys In The Country

' lhapoo — Trade with Japan — A mandarin "know-nothing" — A beautiful hawk— The sporting gentleman — Kite-flying — An empty shut. — Adventure with a pirate-junk — Treacherous steersman — Trick with the compass The soup drugged — Aroused to danger — Presence of mind — Danger averted by knowledge of the language — Necessity of encouraging its study, . . . .20 CONTENTS.

Chapter IV. Pagk

. its forbidding aspect— The home of the missionary— Tradition of the Rock— Relish for traditions- Ride by the gun ba1 Marks left bj H. M. ship Corn wallis Temple of Xampooto — Hos pitalities Dislike of cold drinks-Rough riding White grai Temple of the White Stag— Pony race upstairs Pine view- Ruined villages — A washerman in petticoats - Koolangsoo — Sad effects of civil war— Early deaths of British chaplains Trade of Amoy- Frequent disturbances— Aborigines ol Formosa ferocity — A Yankee exhibited by a Chine I*, u 28

Chapter V

F00CH0W-F00. Foochow-foo — Its important foreign trade — Chinese honesty — Beauty of the city — A quaint old chronicle — Taking portraits— Good female sitters— Small feet not general — Tartar women— Tartar soldiers inferior to .'Innes. — Bow ami an-nv pi ' of strength -Fishing with cormorants — Its dangers — Poetical names of places — Britisli consulate — Obstacles to foreigners obtaining land — A mandarin and his tail — Processions shabby and grand — Places worth visiting — Hot springs and tea-houses — Hot, baths — Scanty ablutions, . . . ... .37

Chapter VI. Swatow

Swatow — Its late rise into importance — Numerous wells - Primitive ■ i -making — Waste and loss, yet extraordinary cheapness of production— Rival elans and predatory expeditions— Excess of males over females— Fine appearance of the men Eating mandarins—A sketch— Shaking hands— A little rebellion and a great tragedy — Differences in manners and customs — Theatrical entertainment—A peep behind the scenes— Second visit to the theatre — The audience and the actors — An agreeable family— A Catholic missionary, ... . . . . .47

Chapter VII. North-east Part Of Kwang-tuno

North-east part of Kwang-Tung— Chaou-Chaou-Foo, a Quixotic expedition— Stuck fast in mud— Mocking Birds— Eel-fishers — Sledge- CONTENTS. XIII PAGZ racing over mud— Launched again — Disturbed appearance of the country — Fighting preparations — Hoong-lo-Chee — Poultice versus Precipitate— Young Braves and ladies — Opium-smoking — Civility of the people — Their surprise at first seeing foreigners — Pre dominance of males — A beauty — Uses of a sketch-book — Mountain view — Opium-dealers, . . . . . .63

Chapter VIII. Religion In China

Religion in China — Statements of Hue and Meadows — Enlightened Chinese not idolaters — Taouist traditions regarding the Messiah- Rise of Buddhism — Belief in Supreme Being — Religion founded in fear — Injudicious proceedings of missionaries — Buddhist priests — Three classes of Buddhists — Idols — No State religion under existing dynasty— Supremacy of the Emperor — Taouist priests — Pretty temple — Religious offering — An emperor's definition of worship, . 7i

Chapter X. Character Of The Chinese

First impressions corrected — Chinese character opposite to that of Europeans — Chinese school-book — The new religion taught by the Rebels — Fundamental principles of the old faith contrary to that of Christianity — Official rank open to all — Rule regarding mandarins — Indifference to circumstances — Potted ancestors — Coffins for the living — Hired mourners— The famine at Shanghai — Stories of infanticide exaggerated — A tower full of bodies — Disreputable nuns —Canton fire-brigade— Stoicism of Chinese undergoing sentence of death — Suicide by order — Strange mixture of qualities, 95

Chapter XI. Trustworthiness Of The Chinese

Cheating honestly— The compradore — Honesty of servants— Mercantile integrity— Chops of tea— Coolies, their fidelity— Open exposure of property— A pickpocket— Pawnbroking— No native gold or silver coin — Unwritten agreements faithfully observed — Rarity of drunkenness—Eyes and tails— Costumes— Chinese cotton goods— Dress of coolies— Fishermen— Perfection in matters of utility— Cooking by steam— Healthiness of the people— Medical treatment— Monkey-soup, .....•* CONTENTS. XIV

Chapter XII. Page

Chinese character— Chinese witness— Value of knowing the language —Great want of interpreters— Chinese employed by Euro] Their satisfactory conduct— Chinese "Sepoys"— Growing I of communication with Europe, . 124

Chapter XIII. The Mandarins

Emperor's description of his officers — Wickedness and baseness of the mandarins — Ho-Kwan's prodigious gains— Other degraded mandarins—The Foochow bank failure — Wholesale execution of angry creditors — Murder of Englishmen — Attack on missionaries — Resolute conduct of the British Consul — Supported by a British naval captain — The offenders delivered up — Accounts of mandarins punished—The conduct of soldiery at Shanghai — A Chinese admiral pockets pay and avoids fighting — A Chinese battle a bice — Missionary hospitals, ; . 131

Chapter XIV. Prisons And Punishment

Horrors of a Chinese prison — Prisoners nailed together — Prisoner in a cage — Starving to death — An address to the throne — Salutary interference of Lord Elgin — Instances of fatal effects of ill-usage — Various kinds of torture — Imitation of official cruelty — A poor wretch saved — Curious customs regarding wives — Deliberate act of vengeance — Other instances of the like kind — Flogging big boys — A servant flogging his master — More cruelties — Life for life — Gods in the rain, ...... 145

Chapter XV. The Insurrection

Frequency of former revolutions — Peculiar character of the actual insurrection— New kind of Christianity — Scepticism of foreigners regarding the religious character of the movement— Same feeling on the part of officials exposed and condemned — Difficulty of arriving at truth— Two distinct rebellions— The Triads — The Dagger-men- Mode of recognition — Secret societies dreaded by CONTENTS. XV PAGE the mandarins — The English war and the internal troubles- Forces on paper — Volunteers— Amour not love — Origin of insur rection — The first converts — Effect of a missionary's tract — Preaching of Hung-siu-tsuen — Fung-yun-san's first congregation — Religious belief— Yang, the eastern king — Obligation on Chris tians to consider the religious movement in China — Unjust interference of foreigners, . . . . . .151

Chapter XVI. Tai-ping-wang And The Insurrection

Tai-ping-wang and the progress of the insurrection — Who was the first rebel chief? — Teen-teh's execution — Connexion of the Tai-ping movement with secret societies — The different leaders — Dead alive — Repression of vice in the rebel camp — Christian doctrines —Blasphemous assumptions of titles by rebel chiefs, and other anomalies, explained — Exaggerated accusations — Expected results of the movement, ...... 162

Chapter XVII. The March On Pekin

The march on Pekin — Scarcity of grain excites anxiety in the capital — First success of the insurgents — Favourable disposition of the people— Several towns captured — Jews of Kai-Fung— Panic in Pekin — Siege of Hwui-king— A descendant of Confucius slain by the insurgents — This event serves the Imperialists— Frequent defeats of the latter— Movements of the insurgents — Curious exposure of the state of the empire by a Chinese official— Anger of the Government— Difficulty of obtaining contributions — Odd expedients to raise money — Poverty of the Government, and its possible results, . . . . • • .170

Chapter XVIII. The Amoy Rebels

Movement not connected with Tai-ping-wang— Admiral Ma-gay ; his history— Cruelties of the Imperialists —Humane interference of English officers— A Chinese trial— Au affecting incident— Battles arranged beforehand— Death of Ma-gay— The innocent and guilty punished alike— Rebels saved by a British ship, . . -181 CONTENTS. XVI

Chapter XIX. The Rebels At Shanghai

PARE Shanghai seized by a secret society — Docile character of the citizens — Tai-ping-wang acknowledged — Foreign property respected — A heroine — The siege operations — Singular details — A conchologist — Two marine deserters — Curious contrivances — Conspiracies in the city — Picturesque costumes — Rebels' penal code — Motley arms — Silk armour — Desire for rank — Bribery — The leaders described, 187

Chapter XX. The French Attack On Shanghai

Proposals to the rebels by Admiral Stirling and Sir John Bowring— Their unfortunate failure — The French resolve on picking a quarrel with the rebels — Hostilities commence — Imperialists attack at -, the same time — The author ventures into the beleaguered city- Preliminary politeness under difficulties — State of affairs within — Resolution to resist the French — Interview with the chief — Harmless shells — Return with answers — Objections on points of form — Another visit to the city — Camp-bearers of the chiefs — Dresses worse for wear and warfare — Wadded armour — The chiefs changed appearance — Diplomacy nearly baffled by a green-tea broker — Agreement at length signed — Foreigners in rebel pay — The French Admiral implacable — A skirmish — Another venture into the city, and offer of submission to the three Treaty powers brought back — French proclaim a strict blockade — Firing at an old woman — City bombarded — The great assault — The Imperialist assault — The Imperialists repulsed — French retreat — Boldness of the rebels— Attempt to starve the city— Fair treatment of prisoners by the rebels — Visit to the wounded Chinese — Further and more fortunate communications with the rebel chief — Agreement to surrender made nugatory by the perverseuess of the French admiral— Last efforts of the rebels — Entry of the Imperialists, who set fire to the city — Horrible atrocities — Thejinale, . 197

Chapter XXI. Siege Of Canton By The Triads

Heads and ears — A walk round Canton — Miserable appearance of the place — The braves — Author visits head-quarters — The commander and his crew — Appearance of the rebel army — The combat — Imperialists retreat — Lies of the Pekin Gazette — Extraordinary cow- CONTENTS. XVII FA.E A charge with an umbrella— Mandarins' fear of the people retaliating the iniquities of their rulers— Closeness of the blockade — Ingeniously-conveyed despatches from the rebels — Executions— Attempts at visiting the rebels' camp-Odd artillery practice— The soldiers destroy what the rebels spare— Popularity of the rebel cause— Partial proceedings of the English in support of the governing powers— No means of opening communication with the rebels— Wide spread of the insurrection— The " Avenger of Sorrow"- Fearful scenes— Rising en masse— Defeat and reaction - A million perish in the province of Canton within a year, 220

Chapter XXII. Events On The Coast Op China

e at the Chinese naval history— Marauding bands stop supplies to Canton, and cause deep distress The < Ihinese admiral ordered to break the blockade— His imbecility— Rebels' blockade extended — Rebel fleet never molested foreign vessels— Proof to the o never shown— Vessels unjustly declared piratical— Install i i foreign vessels set tree after seizure— British ships chartered to protect junks- Questionable attack by British ships— Destruction el ships— An awkward error— Homicide by misadventure— Curious artifice— Heads and cocoa-nuts— Instances of unfair treat meat of Chinese vessels— Question of the right of a Foregn Govern ment to destroy the fleets of the Insurgents— Defence set up ex amined A claim for British law against British might— Great strength of the Insurgents— Author's motives for urging inq Supported by instances of inconsiderate condemnation, . • 241

CHAPTER XXII

I. CHINESE EMIOBATIO-t. Chinese in California and Australia— Travelling corrects prejudices — Hard usage of Chinese insurgents — Cheerfulness at sea— Horror of burial at sea— Sharp dealing of a Yankee captain— Unfair treatmen, of coolies- Difficulty of procuring them at present —Description of coolies on board— Effect of good and of ill treatment upon them —Traits of character — Chinese prejudices not 'corrected by what they see abroad, ..... 25 i

Chapter XXIV

7 OF THE INSURRECTION. Leaning of the English authorities to the mandarins, and to the maintenance of the Imperial government— Gross error of -the English b CONTENTS PAOE in not recognising the Christian element that animated the Cl rebellion — Lord Elgin's pa ided view of his interpreters— Sir J.|Bowriii:'s policy determined by the belief that*' British commerce with China depends upon the maintenance of the present dynasty — Difficulty of promulgating Christianity M i . Wade's animosity to the rebels contrasted with the opinions Oi others Improbability of Lord Elgin's expedition up the Yang tsze-Kiang being useful at present— A convincing proof given of the non-existence of the neutrality which had been proclaimed, . 261

Chapter XXV. The Dispute With Yeh

What lorchas are — Affair of the "Arrow" — Misunderstanding occa stoned by want of interpreters — Stubbornness of Yeh Sir Michael Seymour insists on au interview — Forces his way to Yell's ri — The latter not at home— Yeh quarrels with the American Com modore, who retaliates by destroying some Ions Author's Canton — The people not against us— All against Yeh— Fort captured by the British— Goodwill of the people— Burning of the Factories— Great efforts to subdue the fire— Burning of the Bank- Mr. Lane of the consulate killed — One house escaped being burnt A friendly community broken up — War confined to the Canton waters — Honest conduct of Chinese merchants — The poisoned bread— Exaggeration on the subject corrected, 280

Chapter XXVI

lord Elgin's mission and its results. Troops of the Chinese expedition required for India— French Alliance — Instructions to Lord Elgin— The opium trade — Proper course to pursue in China- Lord Elgin disregards instructions, and Mr. Laygets promotion— Correspondence with Chinese officials— Al I ordered— Successful capture of the Takoo forts— The treaty signed —Unjust attack on Sir M. Seymour by Lord Elgin's secretary Opinion of the foreign community in China— The expedition up the Yang-tsze-kiang— Remarks upon it— Conclusion, . . LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Lithographs. page Title-page — Our Enemies in China. Silk-reeling, Che-kiang, . . . . . * 11 Foochow, Fokien, ....... 37 Tartars, ....... -*1 Foochow Women, Fokien, ...... 46 Costumes— Swatow, Kwang-Tung, ... 60 Macao, ..... 1°" Chair Coolies, . . • .117 Children, ...... 124 Rebels at Shanghai, ... 187 Soldiers at Canton, ..... 224 The Dutch Folly, .... • "283 Map of the Chinese Rebellion.

Wood Engravings. Costumes, Mainland near Hong-Kong, Cotton Weeder, Kiangsoo, ...■•■ Woosung River, ,, Female Labourers, „.-•■■• Amoy, from White Stag Temple, Fokien, . Theatricals at Masoo, Kwang-Tung, Baby Tower, Shanghai, Kiangsoo, it Napping, Kwang-Tung, ... 118 A Chinese Scull, Kiangsoo, .... Budge at the Hills, Kiangsoo, . ■ ■ Bridge near Shanghai, Kiangsoo, . ° ooo War Charger, ..••••• — Slow but Sure. . ■ OQQ Chinese Plough, . .... 303 Chinese Warrior, . . * * * TWELVE YEARS IN CHINA. INTRODUCTORY NOTICE. Though there have been many works published regarding China, very little has been told compared with what may yet be related concerning this extraordinary portion of the globe, and its still more extraordinary people. The writings of Davis, Williams, Meadows, Fortune, Cooke, &c, have done much to bring the Chinese into notice, and the peculiar character of the principal insur rection has also attracted attention to the country.

The dispute with Yeh brought Chinese affairs prominently forward, but public attention was still more strongly directed to China when the disastrous news arrived of the unfortunate defeat at Takoo. War with China, upon a more extended scale than was ever before con templated, appears inevitable. As the subject is there fore likely to be interesting to many, and as I am not aware of any mercantile man having published any narrative of Chinese affairs, perhaps the views of such a one may, from this different light, form almost a new picture. Most of the books upon China have been written by men of official position — by missionaries and by persons who have seen but little of the natives in A INTRODUCTORY NOTICE. daily general intercourse : the official stands upon his dignity and goes through the tedious forms of stiff diplomatic visits now aud then ; most of his information is derived from people who are devoted to the manda rins ; the missionary has better opportunities, mixes more with the people, and his informants are less con nected with the ruling authorities, but, from his position, he sees the Chinese in a different light to most other observers.

He endeavours to impress upon his Chinese hearers, in language which they often do not clearly understand, maxims they care little for, and gospel truths which they do not believe. Time, however, is improving these things, and ere long, we may look for some very interesting work from one or other of the intelligent missionaries who have lately done much to open up the country around Shanghai. There is a great portion of the veil which envelops China still unrent, and there is much to be said to the good people of England regarding the position of foreigners in China. In treating of the Chinese people, I have been guided chiefly by my own experience during a residence of more than twelve years. In commenting upon public affairs, I have endeavoured to make use of the most reliable sources of information.

The sketches in the following pages are gathered from a host of drawings made in different excursions ; their only recommendation is that they are tolerably faithful, though the costumes may often differ from pre-conceived notions of the Chinese. It is with much diffidence I place before the public my personal adventures, in the hope that the book may lead some to think better of the Chinese as a people, and less highly of the mandarins and officials than they did befor*.*. INTRODUCTORY NOTICE. In iny tours I confine myself chiefly to what 1 saw of the people, and purposely have not given descriptions of places which have already been visited and described by foreigners. In such scenes as have not been previously described by others, I have given notes of what I saw. Cotton Weeder

Chapter I. Silk Districts Of China

Departure from Shanghai — A metamorphosis — Province of Che-Kiang Variety of boats — Peculiar mode of catching fish— Prodigious population A hint to high farmers at home — City of Kia-Hin*. Mulberry leaves- Large factories rare in China — Distrust of assemblages of men -Chinese The author roughly handled Keeling of silk — Various kinds — Lai. ion — Native manufacture defective — Its antiquity— The wild worm — A French savant —Chinese children precociously sedate. In the spring of 1848, when few had extended their journeys to any great distance, I set off from Shanghai, accompanied by my Chinese teacher, a Singapore Chinese, as interpreter in case of difficulty, and a barber, who also acted as cook. My object being to see the country as well as could be without interruption, and to penetrate as far as possible into the silk districts, 1 adopted the Chinese dress, aud after getting fairly under way, metamorphosed myself into a Chinaman, set the barber to work to make a clean sweep of my hair, and, at tached to my cap, wore a thorough-bred tail of some son of Han, shaded the natural colour of my barbarian eyes by a huge pair of tea-stone spectacles, and marched forth without fear of recognition.

On entering the province of Che-Kiang, we came upon the first line of mulberry trees. The leaves of many had been partially stripped, and the stunted branches bore a strong resemblance to leper's fingers. It was here the tide appeared to end. The banks of the canal were not much above the level of the water, ex cept where mulberry plantations lined the margin of the stream. Wild strawberries were just beginning to bud, and the rich yellow of the vast fields of a species of pea enriched the view to a grand extent. The people used a different build of boat to what I had been accustomed to see ; and I have since noticed that in the various provinces there is a great dissimilarity in the craft employed on the water. In Kiang-soo, which is inter laced by a complete network of large canals, the boats are broad and roomy, most comfortable for travelling in, perfectly 'snug ; and the better kinds make capital places of residence for a long trip, — it is like taking your house with you.

I had two with me, that in case one were stopped I might get off in the other. In Che-Kiang the boats are built narrow and flat sided, to go through the sluices that are frequent in that province. The wide streams of Canton boast of many descriptions, admirably adapted for all purposes. In Fokien we get out of the cotton region, and find mat sails in general use. The rapid streams in the north of STRANGE MODE OF FISHING. 7 that part of China require the boats to be made of a peculiar form, and an immense plank is placed far out of the stern of each, to act as a powerful rudder to aid the helmsman to twist the boat quickly from threatened dangers in the noisy rapids. It requires no small nerve to steer them evenly through the gaps in the far-famed bridge of Foo-chow-fou, where the tide runs like a mill race, and has often a drop perpendicularly of several feet.

The Kwangsi boats that come to Canton have to pass sluices which must be very steep, for the bows are made long and flat, at an angle of 45° from the floor, so as to form a guard to the boats rushing bodily under the water when launched down the sluice. Before reaching the city of Kia-Ching the first bridge is passed since we left Shanghai, — a fine granite arch rising boldly far above the plain. The canal then takes a direct line to the city, the long perspective view being ended by a beautiful pagoda rising up at the termination of a long vista of mulberry plantations which line the water high way on each side. In walking along the banks we came upon a man fishing in a most peculiar way. He was perched on a low bridge leading over a stream that joined the canal. At first I thought he had hooked an enormous fish, but on closer inspection found that it was merely a live decoy.

Its dorsal fin was laced to two small sticks, one on each side ; from these it was tethered to what I first took to be his rod. The poor fish sported about in the water, apparently doing its best to attract the attention of its finny fellows. The man held a small arrow pointed trident, with which he dexterously struck any large fish that came wondering at the antics of the tethered decoy. The whole apparatus was so simple, that I wonder the same system is not applied elsewhere. It would be a splendid thing for salmon in some of the clear streams in Scotland, and would give all the plea sure of leistering without the confusion attending torches and night-work. Let any one sceptical of the immense population of China, pass between the towns of Kia-Ching and Kia- Hing, some eight miles apart, and his unbelief will be driven to the winds.