Twelve Times round the World, etc

Front matter

TWELVE TIMES ROUND THE WORLD. All rights reserved twelve Uimcs IRounfc tbe Worfo BY " A GLOBE TROTTER " GEORGE CROSS SAYCE BEISTOL J. W. Akbowshith, 11 Quay Street LONDON Simpkin, Marshall, Hamilton, Kent and Co. Limited CONTENTS. Chapter Page i. early days 9 ii. australia, east indies, china and japan . 21 iii. west indies, mexico, etc, etc 41 iv. panama, australia, south sea islands, etc. 56 v. business 86 vi. "globe trotter's" days 91 vii. "globe trotter's" days 125 viii. "globe trotter's" days 153 IX. another trip to the east, yachting, and portishead ILLUSTRATIONS. Facing Page BUSH CLEARING AUSTRALIA 24 ENTRANCE TO AUCKLAND HARBOUR NEW ZEALAND . 61 AUCKLAND HARBOUR NEW ZEALAND 62 P. AND O. STEAMSHIP " ROME " PASSING THROUGH SUEZ CANAL 100 ON BOARD P. AND O. STEAMER IN THE RED SEA . 106 THE AUTHOR'S WHIST CLUB 112 WHIST DURING A SQUALL 116 GALLE FACE HOTEL, COLOMBO, CEYLON 175 NATIVE LADY OF THE HOUSE, CEYLON 176 A MAORI CHIEF AND THREE WIVES Ctoclbc Cimcs ilcmntr tbe Mtorltr.

Chapter I. Early Days

j|||i $fcg N writing a short history of the best mjji jp| part of niy life, after many years of H|jf ffUl sea service, and some at business, also several as a " Globe Trotter," I ask for the kind indulgence of my readers for a sailor's yarn. From an old family Bible, I find that I was born on the 30th November, 1842, and, curiously enough, duly christened George Cross, not from St. George's Cross of St. Andrew's Day, but from worthy relations — George, after an uncle, the Rev. George Sayce, now, I am pleased to say, well and hearty ; Cross, after my relations, who had built, in 1747, Clifton Hill House, Clifton, and lived Twelve Times there for many years, and who now rest, with others of my family, in Westbury Church vaults, near Redland, Bristol. My father ancl mother had eleven children.

My elder brothers, also sister (Henry, Emily, and Charles), were born at Racket Hall, Roscrea, County Tipperary, Ireland, my father's early residence after matrimony. I was the first born in good old England ; my seven younger brothers and sisters also joined our party in this country. My young and happy clays were enjoyed at Clifton; also at Cadbury, Yatton, and for some years at West Town House, West Town, near Bristol, Somersetshire ; so I am fairly local, and can remember with pleasure nearly every lane and stream about this part of the country. At Cadbury I was unfortunate enough to break my left arm rather severehr, ancl, strangely, the same arm has been badly smashed at sea since then. My father was mostly away during the day, and the mater let us do much as we liked, so with such a large ancl jolly family we had a good old time of it.

At West Town, at one time, we had a muster of seventeen or eighteen, including our governess and servants. I often walked, as a very small boy, to Bolton's Baths and back to learn swimming, a distance of, say, sixteen miles. Our house was first-rate for young people, with a good garden ancl lawn, excellent stables, ancl with plenty of outhouses for the youngsters to keep their animals in. We used to keep a number of birds and rabbits of all kinds, ancl had the greatest fun and excitement over our bargains with the various pets. This was doubtless our first insight into doing business. We had a pair of cobs to drive to town (Bristol) ancl back ; also a pony, ancl we once made this little animal do some splendid jumping on the lawn. Emily could ride well, having a good seat ; and it was truly laughable to watch her clear the hurdles, most of us joining in at the fun to prevent the pony sheering off.

Our gardener, strangely enough, seemed to enjoy this little joke as much as ourselves, ancl he used to laugh with right goodwill. Emily was as true as steel, ancl very fond of her brothers, so, as you may imagine, we thought no end of her. Some years after I had the pleasure of a trip to China and back with her, and since then took my sister Edith Tivelve Times (now the baby of the family) to Malta and back. I merely mention these facts to point out that I am of a family fond of, and much given to, travel. Before starting this little book I had been more than 500,000 miles over our globe, and a good 90,000 miles in command of a schooner around ancl about the South Sea Islands. This is, however, going ahead rather too fast, so I must heave round with my younger clays. At West Town I had the satisfaction of going daily to school at our vicar's, the Rev. J. Langworthy, near Backwell Church — the tower of this church is well worth seeing — about half-a-mile from the village of West Town, and only an hour's drive from Clifton.

Mr. Langworthy was all that could be desired, and Mrs. L. a first-rate manageress, with three charming and pretty daughters. I was at other schools as a boarder, and for over two years at Mr. Elwell's at Weston super-Mare — a healthy spot, and a capital school for those days. Weston was quite a small watering-place, with a population of 0,000, and with wild sand - hills extending from our school to the mouth of a small river. Weston, how you are changed, with your splendid esplanade ancl about 18,000 inhabitants ! Mr. Elwell was a just and good head master, and, I am glad to write, lived to a ripe old age. Several of his sons were great friends with the boys. One son, by name Taff, was extremely good to me, no doubt because I was such a small youngster at this my first boarding-school. Henry ancl Charles were also at this school, but they did not remain so long as myself.

I had, like many others, several fights, and feel sure that we were all the better friends after wards. Youngsters' schooldays so cmickly pass away that I contend all young people should be made as happy as possible ; and I give this as my tip to small boys at school, or other wise : If you have a bully, never mind his size — provided, of course, he is about the same age — await your chance ; then let him have it straight from the shoulder : watch the coward's eyes, ancl black them well. I have seen a big boy show considerable respect to a small one after a dose of physic of this kind ; and as this is the only advice I intend giving my young friends ; I trust they may remember an old bov's and an old salt's words. From school at Weston I once " ran away," as it is termed — my people living at that time in Clifton — so must have walked, as I did the entire distance on foot, over twenty miles, at the age of ten, and without a sixpence in my pocket.

Fortunately for me, we had a charming governess for the younger ones, whom I called " the clipper," not because she was fast, but because we all liked her, ancl she was young and pretty. Well, this clear girl took me back to school the very next day, but, strange to relate, I had not been missed. So pretty governess, with the diplomacy of a politician, enters first ; explains my jaunt to the head-master, who welcomes truant back with a " Come in, George, ancl have a glass of wine ! " Richard feels himself once more ; but has to part with sweet diplomatist, ancl over this I drop a veil. I do not mention her name, notwithstanding it is on the tip of my tongue, so only hope this good fair one may live to read my remarks and scant praise. No doubt, had my head-master given me more stick, I might have lived to be a better, if not a wiser, man.

At times I must have been a troublesome lad, as it is still in my memory, on a festive occasion during our holidays, at which it took four servants to carry me upstairs, also nails of no ordinary size to fasten the door, and thus try to cage me in. This reminds me of a jolly old cook we had, who one day, during a fit of temper that I was in, tried her very best to soft-soap me, but at last gave up in despair, and finished by saying : " Well, Master George, you be cross by name ancl nature too ! " Just about this time Henry and another set out one night to shoot a red-deer that had escaped from the Park, Brockley ; ancl after waiting long ancl weary hours under a hedge, they at last heard what they thought must be the big game, breaking its way through the hedge, just a few yards beyond them.

Bang ! bang ! go their rifles, ancl " Oh dear, such a deer ! " Why, they shot Farmer Hardwick's donkey ! This is no doubt in the memory of many locals, ancl is a good joke. I did a little in the poaching way, but, as far as I remember, kept on good terms with the keepers. My mother Avas delighted for us to have any and every enjoyment, and used to sit up waiting our return after dances and other amusements. Long, long hours they must have seemed, but I never remember her com plaining. I have been most fortunate in having such a clever and good mater, so have " much to be thankful for." This may make her laugh, as it has been her favourite saying. Anyway, I take the liberty of dedicating this, my little work, to the best friend I have ever had — my mother ; and should it please her, am more than satisfied.

Henry had, at this time, become quite a naturalist, ancl took the keenest interest in all birds, fish, and animals ; could stuff well, and handle the rod and gun better than any of us. At West Town he made a canoe, ancl he and I steered it down a stream towards Clevedon ; slept out all night under a blanket tent, and enjoyed this outing to a considerable extent. The pater and mater did not trouble about our movements of this kind ; of course, they could not know all our "goings on." Near Nailsea Station there was a lartre pond, called the Backcutting, and here young ladies ancl gentlemen of our party used to bathe ; but let not this be mentioned, as the trains passed quite close, and most of us being but lightly clad jumped into the water as the train came by, ancl thus became partly ob scured, at any rate, all but our heads.

We also fished here for roach, with average catches ; ancl enjoyed ourselves in this charm ing country spot in every conceivable way. On Sundays all had to go to church, and we marched like animals going into the ark — two and two — and during Sunday afternoon, after early dinner, we used to read in turns till pater fell asleep, then a general stampede took place. In fine weather we came to an anchor on the lawn, and Emily became our reader, ancl very well she read. I consider that the " boys," as we used to be called, behaved well, as perfect order was the rule. Sunday nights, early to roost. Weekdays, up early ancl out in the open. In those clays croquet was the great outdoor game for many to join in, and we kept it going for hours. Lawn Tennis was not in vogue at that time. Charles ancl myself, being nearly the same age, took long walks together, the Clifton Zoological Gardens coming in for a considerable share of our patronage, and first-rate they were, having nearly, if not quite, the best show of lions in England.

One day out shooting, as quite a small boy, with a friend, by name Captain Bisdee, I shot a large hare, and held it up for Bisdee to see. He at once shouted out : " Hide it away quickly, George, or you will catch it ! " Yes, it Avas out of season ; and the said hare was in an interesting condition. Captain B. and family lived close to us, so we frequently met ; in fact, there were many jolly friends living near. I am sorry to say very many of these good country people, then living, have ere this joined the great majority. However, as nearly forty years have since flown, I must expect such to be the case. Several deaths having taken place in our family since those bright ancl happy clays, I purpose only introducing the younger mem bers of the Sayces living in 1892. They are four, as follow : Polly, next younger than myself, ancl now a grandmother, wife of the Rev. Stafford Tordiffe, of Staplegrove Rectory, Taunton ; Arthur, vicar of Locking, near Weston-super-Mare ; ancl Betton, my youngest brother, now living, Commander of the Bristol Royal Naval Artillery Volunteers ; and Edith, my youngest sister, now wife of the Rev. T. G. Luckock, first vicar of Emmanuel Church, Clifton.

My good and much-beloved sister Emily, also brother Charles, I deeply regret to say, have gone before ; so in future write as of a family of six, all that are left, including myself, at the present time. However, to make this clear, I will call my two sisters by their names as of old. Polly, as we ahvays called her — a name I am very fond of, as it sounds like a pirate craft of good old days, wliich are for ever gone. Many sailors spin yarns of a brig of the same name. Our Polly was — Fair to see, Full of fun, And full of spree ; ' And had yet another name, as I can remember long years ago, during a visit at our grand mother Sayce's, at Cote Lodge, Durdham Down. Polly was called " Tomboy," simply because she used to copy her elder brother George in climbing trees, &c. But our old grandmother had very correct notions, having been educated by Hannah More.

One of my grandfathers built the iron seat with the sun- 2 * dial on the top at Penpole Point, Shirehamp ton, which may be seen even now standing in fairly good condition. I sometimes visit this pretty spot, ancl enjoy a most charming view across the Severn, ancl it is well worth a visit from anyone staying in the neighbourhood of Bristol. It is only about four miles' walk, the field way, from Clifton. My mother lived her young clays at Shire hampton ; father his at Cote Lodge, Durdham Down. He has been a good wdiip in his time, and a clever judge of horses ; ancl before my clays, in Ireland, drove a four-in-hand, but in these degenerate clays had to drive a lively lot of twTo-legged animals. He had certainly steered us well, and we must foiever owe him a debt of gratitude. It was now about time for some of us to start in life, so I, having read Robinson Crusoe, chose the life of a sailor.

Shortly afterwards my two elder brothers joined the Army — Henry the 99th Regiment, ancl Charles also joined the service in the 2nd Battalion of the 4th King's Own Regiment, Very shortly after this I made my first trip round the world, and in my next chapter will take you to Australia, the East Indies, China, ancl Japan.

Chapter II. Australia, East Indies, China And Japan

Sp?S?^j] N a fine September morning 1 bade I mM J my relations adieu, and started l^^!M away to join my ship for a turn round "our Planet." 1 was soon on board and weighed anchor for Australian waters. We had as fine a lot of youngsters as you might wish to see— thirteen — in our mid shipmen's mess. I was a junior midshipman, and had two others in my watch, one senior and one of the same grade as myself. I naturally looked at the last speck of land until lost sight of, and then felt for the first time that I was fairly away. It is astonishing how soon wre all tumbled into the regular routine of work, and I learnt to furl the royal in a very few clays. Reefing the topsails requires some little seamanship. In fine weather this is no great hardship, but in cold dirty weather it is anything but pleasant, more especially on a dark night, and this was my experience after a few days at sea.

We always had a tot of rum after reefing, as did also the crew — and good old Jamaica stuff it was. The next morning the wind moderated, we shook out reefs and made all sail. A large full-rigged ship under canvas is an extremely pretty sight, ancl I could not but feel glad that I was on the briny. One of my watch-mates was a very amusing Irishman, by name Moore. He was a splendid hand at growling — not so much on deck, in fact more in his hammock, which was swinging next to mine ; consequently out of hearing of his seniors. I fancy that I can hear him now, bringing out a perfect string of epithets, call ing someone an "up-and-down-main-hatchway peasoup - scoffing - lumped - up-bumped - up - hay - making -double - quintessence-of-a-bunghole ! " And I am afraid a few adjectives were also thrown in ; all as it were in one word — you must say it very fast to do it anything like Moore.

Anyway, he was a good sailor; so growl he may, but go he must. The living was not quite so good as that which you get at the Grand Hotel, London, of the present clay ; for at sea it was one clay pea soup ancl salt pork, and the next — a grand change — salt horse and duff, which in plain English means salt beef and plum pudding. About thirty-five years have elapsed since then, ancl things have improved vastly : for instance, you can now get good vegetables, etc. Growing youngsters in my time had but a poor chance beyond plenty of fresh air, and this of course we had ad lib. We constantly sighted other vessels, and for the first time in my life I saw flying-fish. However, we soon work on towards the equator. In the tropics, in calm weather, many on board amused themselves catching sharks. It is a curious fact that after a shark is killed and you cut out his heart, it will beat for a long time in the palm of your hand.

They seem, like cats, to have nine lives. With a regular routine of ship's duties, punctuality and discipline, time seems to pass away quickly. Crossing the line of course Father Neptune came on board, ancl those who had not crossed before must expect to be tarred and feathered ; but as it was all fun it was taken in good] part, and one could look forward to doing the same to others hereafter. We soon reach the south-east trade winds, which are simply lovely. Many years of my Round the World, life have been enjoyed in the same trade winds in the South Pacific, wliich, to my way of thinking, is the best place for yachting in the world. We called at the Cape, having seen but little land on our way out thus far. This part of Africa has a good climate, suited to the most delicate. I landed with others, and we drove to the vineyards at Constantia ; we tasted the wine, which put us in a glow at once.

The next day, up anchor and sail away with a splendid westerly breeze to the antipodes. We had good fair winds nearly all the time until we made the land of Australia. Here the climate changed, and was quite cold. In a few clays we made Port Philip Heads, and shortly afterwards let go om1 anchor in the harbour of Hobson's Bay, a few miles from Melbourne. I was fortunate enough to have a letter of introduction to Dr. Livingstone, who lived on the banks of the river Yarra Yarra, near Melbourne ; I therefore asked, ancl managed to obtain, leave of absence for a month, during which time I stayed with this kind gentleman and his niece. We called him the " Doctor," BUSH CLEARING — AUSTRALIA. Round the World. 27 ancl the good man left his niece (who was about my own age) ancl myself to amuse our selves as we best could ; ancl we had a great time, thoroughly exploring Melbourne and its suburbs — also the country around.

St. Kilda, a small village near, was a charming watering place, with very pretty villas in every direction ; ancl here we often spent an enjoyable day. I must say I was agreeably surprised by my first impressions of Australia. The only complaint I could make was, that it was too much like England, with the exception of the houses being mostly built of wood, and that one meets with the same kind of tree in every direction — the blue gum or eucalyptus, as it is called. I also noticed that instead of liedges they use rails to divide their paddocks. The climate is good, being about the same latitude as the Cape ; but the hot winds are a great drawback, and are much more prevalent in Melbourne than Sidney. This was about the time Of the great ex citement of the gold-diggings, and ships lost most of their crews by desertion.

Ballarat was the spot for all. Melbourne was now in its zenith, I should say, of prosperity. If I had only had enough to invest it in an allot ment, in or near the city, at that time, I might now have been a very rich man. No one, who has not experienced it, knows the real jileasure of enjoying oneself on leave after a sea voyage, and I can only say that I found it " real strawberry jam," as the people in Melbourne were kindness itself. Miss Livingstone amused us for several days by painting a "likeness" of myself, and she certainly gave me plenty of colour. No doubt I was bronzed by the trip ; but on looking at this little picture, I seemed to sink into in significance by the side of the imposing array of brass buttons which she had given me : however, it pleased the girl ancl was an amuse ment to me.

It was with much regret that I left these and many other kind friends and joined my ship, wliich shortly afterwards sailed for the old country. Since that time I have made many voyages to Australia, so will not give a detailed ac count of this colony during my early days, but hope in future chapters to speak more of the place and its people. After leaving Australia we had a good deal of bad weather, and reefing seemed to be the order of the clay. As soon as you get fairly south, say about forty degrees, westerly gales prevail, ancl you run your easting clown in no time. Off Cape Horn it invariably blows hard and cold. One morning it seemed as if we wrere surrounded by icebergs, and found it no joke shortening sail and steering clear of them, especially as it was nearly dark all clay. How ever, we cleared the ice in safety and rounded the Cape with a splendid fair wind, which took us nearly to the trades.

Touched at St. Helena, This was a real treat. You can make the island on a clear clay at ninety miles distance. We landed shortly after we brought up, ancl some of us drove to Napoleon's tomb; of course I secured some of the willow. Drove back to James Town in a tumble-down conveyance and put up at a rustic hotel, the verandas of which were nearly eaten away by ants. This place seems to be infested by ants, which destroy the woodwork in a marvellous way. The next day we get under way ancl soon after sight Ascension Island, which, at a distance, looks like an island of ashes ; but you can get turtles here which might please the eyes of an alderman. We used to play chess a great deal, also many other games, ancl in this way varied the monotony of the voyage. Getting near home we sighted several vessels, and signalling be came the order of the clay.

In a few clays' time I awake one morning to find myself in my own four-poster, and can hardly realise that I am safely housed at West Town. I had many yarns to spin to them all at home after this trip, and a very enjoyable time it wras. Within a little time after this I go for another turn round the globe, but will not worry my readers with details of same beyond stating that in rounding Cape Horn I was washed out of the rigging and broke my left arm very badly. Troubles never come singly, and the day after I arrived home (from my second voyage) my youngest brother, I regret to state, was drowned. He was but three years and seven months of age, ancl left his nurse without her knowing it, I found him in a pond, and very quickly brought him into the house. The doctor ancl my mother continued trying during the entire clay to resuscitate life, but without avail.

This cast a gloom on the family, and I was pleased to obtain an appointment on board a trooper — a fine ship of good old clays. I will call her No. 17, as that was our Government number during the time of the China War, 1859-60. I was right glad to find myself on board and bound to Calcutta with a goodly number of red-coats. The trip to the Cape was simply delightful ; after which we had to encounter the monsoons, and shortly after took a pilot on board and were towed up the Hoogley — the pilots here are great swells. This river is a small branch of the Ganges, many parts of which are extremely beautiful, more especially about Garden Reach. We were moored near Fort William, the celebrated star fort of this port. This was of considerable delight to all ; ancl after disembarking the troops, wre often left our ship early in the morning and went sight seeing.

We started in palanquins, and, I am ashamed to say, made the natives trot us to Wilson's Hotel (quite a long distance) : we entered at the front door, leaving these poor fellows awaiting us; but we took good care not to return, consequently we got our ride for nothing. At that time this was thought quite the correct thing to do. Calcutta is a magnificent city, ancl the palaces ancl large buildings are worthy of a visit. The banyan trees ancl other lovely vegetation of the surrounding country are a truly pleasing sight, especially after a sea voyage. We now had orders to proceed to China, in consequence of the war breaking out there ; and I was delighted to find, within but a short space of time, we were to sail for Hong Kong vid the Straits of Malacca. At the end of this chapter I propose giving the names of some of the regiments we had on board during this twenty-two months' cruise with troops.

I am glad to say we left Calcutta in good health ancl made a quick run to the Straits. Off Malacca the land breezes are simply per fect : the aroma from the spice-trees are pleasing in the extreme, and you sight many small craft of all descriptions. The lovely sunsets and enjoyable climate make this one of the most charming places one can imagine. We bring up at Singapore. This spot is almost on the equator, and here we get abundance of fruit and vegetables : pineapples we can buy thirteen for a shilling, and we pitch into these with great gusto. I landed with others ancl heard the stories of the tigers, which had been known to enter the town and carry people off. Hotels at Singapore are not very good, but there are delightful drives about the country. We proceed on our way to Hong Kong, and have plenty of light and adverse winds during our trip.

We arrived at this out-of-the way port and anchored near the sliore, so that we were enabled to make many excursions. There is not much verdure here : the only spot that seemed green was called "Happy Valley," where they bury our English soldiers ; under one tombstone, I noticed that about five hundred had been buried from the same regiment ! The shooting about Hong Kong is fairly good ; the society agreeable, except that they have so few ladies. The town is interesting, the shops being full of curiosities. Chinese work of every description may be bought here: they are extremely clever at all fancy work. I spent most of my time with the officers at the barracks, who were polite and hospit able to a degree. The Chinese junks are curious, nearly every boat and junk having two eyes — one on each side of the bow.