A Geological reconnoissance of the State of Tennessee; being the Author's first Biennial Report presented to the ... General Assembly of Tennesse. ... By J. M. Safford

Preface

. For a series of years, previous to the organization of the present Survey, the late Dr. Gerard Troost, a gentleman of high scientific attainments, occupied the position of State Geologist. We had in tended to give an outline of the results of his observations, but we are reluctantly compelled to defer it to a future occasion. ILs reports, however, have been published, and can be referred to if necessary. In February, 1854, the General Assembly passed an Act creating again "the office of Geologist and Mineralogist of the State," " said office to be filled by the joint vote of both houses of the General As sembly." It was made "the duty of said Geologist and Mineralogist to commence and carry on a geological and mineralogical survey," " with a view to discover the order, relative position, and comparative magnitude ofthe several strata or geological formations within the State, and to discover, analyze, and assay all beds of deposits of ores, coals, clays, marls, and such other mineral substances as may be deemed use ful or valuable, together with such other duties as may be necessary to make a full and complete geological and mineralogical survey;" "and to make a report to the Legislature which shall meet next after his election or appointment, of the progress of such survey, accompanied with such maps, drawings, and specimens as may be necessary," etc.

Soon after the passage of this Act, we were selected to fill the office thus created, and immediately upon the reception of our commission from his Excellency the Governor, entered upon the task assigned us. At the time of our election, we were prosecuting our professional du ties in Cumberland University ; these, however, being temporarily

PREFACE.

. placed in the hands of Professor B. C. Jillson, our whole attention has been devoted to the Survey. Including excursions made during several years previous to our election, the results of which are freely given to the State, we have visited every county, and some of them two or three times. Our object has been to make out first a satisfactory reconnoissance. The following Report is but an outline of the facts collected and the work accomplished. Our limits have compelled us to postpone for a final report many things which we desired to introduce. We offer no apology for any defects that may be detected. Our task has been an arduous one, and the means placed at our disposal for prosecuting it very limited. We have been compelled to work without assistance, except where it has been gratuitously afforded us.

We take this occasion to add, with reference to the future, that it is very desirable that at least a small appropriation should be made, to enable us to employ some one to assist and accompany us in our ex cursions. It would greatly facilitate and hasten the work. We shall, however, in any event, though it may be under difficulties, faithfully carry on the Survey as far as the means given us will justify. The map which accompanies the Report has cost us much labor. We trust that it will be found both useful and, under the circumstances, satisfactory. Its general features wdl be found to be correct, though we by no means present it as a perfect or final Geological Map of Tennessee ; this would imply the completion of the Survey. Here after, in other editions, we shall aim to add to it, make such changes as may be found necessary, and in every way render it more complete and worthy of the rich geological and mineralogical field we occupy.

We are under especial obligations to Dr. C. A. Proctor, State Assayer, for data used in the construction of the Map of the Copper Mines. Mr. T. H. Callaway assisted us also in making out the pro- ' babie continuity and range of the veins ; the courses, etc., givSn, must however, for the present, be taken as approximations. Our thanks are due to Professors B. C. Jillson and A. H. Buchanan, of Cumberland University, as well as to Mr. D. Cook, Jr., of Lebanon, .

PREFACE.

. for assistance rendered in the construction of the map. To Prof. Jill son we are, in addition, under great obligations for kindly accompany ing and assisting us during a long excursion through East Tennessee. The wood-cuts in the Report were executed by H. Bosse, a skilful artist of Nashville. In conclusion, it affords us much pleasure to acknowledge the hospitality that we have universally met with, and often the valuable assistance that we have received from our fellow-citizens throughout the State. We hesitate to mention names, for fear we may omit some whose kind attentions we have experienced. We must be permitted, however, to acknowledge the kindness of the following gentlemen, in addition to those of whom we have spoken in the body of the Report : for especial favors our thanks are due to Mr. William Allen, of Smith.

Col. Wheeler and Mr. Robert Morrow, of Campbell, many gentlemen of Knox, Gen. Sam Millegan, of Greene, Dr. John P. Chester. Hon. John Blair, Messrs. A. J. and R. L. Blair, Dr. A. N. Harris. Mr. C. Meek, and Mr. I. Murray, of Washington, C. W. Nelson, Esq.. the Messrs. Carter, Messrs. L. W. Hampton and Elijah Simerley, of Carter, Mr. G. Moore, of Taylorsville, several gentlemen of Sevierville, Dr. Gillespie, of Maryville, Col. Asa Watson, of Montvale. Messrs. Welch and Harris, of Tellico, Dr. W. W. Morris, of Jasper. Mr. McNealy and Dr. J. M. Larkins, of Charlotte, Dr. E. B. Haskins. President W. M. Stewart, and other gentlemen of Clarksville, Senator A. P. Hall, of Benton, Dr. John S. Pearson and other gentlemen of Memphis, Professor H. A. Gwyn, of Hardeman, Mr. Thomas Combs. of McNairy, etc.

Most of these gentlemen accompanied us on local ex cursions, travelling with us often twenty, thirty, and even sixty miles. To all our iron-masters with whom we came in contact, we are much indebted for valuable information, and for the characteristic hospitality we always met with at their hands. There are many others from whom we received favors, and to whom we are deeply grateful. J. M. SAFFORD. Lebanon, Teim., } February 1st, 1856. j CONTENTS.

Chapter II

Introductory. — The Great Natural Divisions of Tennessee 19 1st. The Unaka Bed of Mountains, 19; Id. The Valley of East Tennessee, 21 ; Sd. The Cumberland Table-land, 23; \th. The Highland Rim of Middle Tennessee, 26 ; 5th. The Central Basin of Middle Tennessee, 27 ; 6th. The Slopes of West Tennessee, 28 ; 7th. Tho Mississippi Bottoms, 30.

Chapter III

The Mineral Wealth or Tennessee : The Ores and Metals. — Developments of the Survey: Details of Work to be done 31

Section I

Iron, 31-57 : The Eastern Iron Region, 32 ; The Dyestone Iron Region, 39 ; The Cumberland Iron Region, 44 ; The Western Iron Region, 47 ; Table of the Tennessee Furnaces, Including their Products in 1854, Ores Used, etc., 51 ; Table of the Bloomaries, etc., 54; Table of the Refineries, etc., 55; Tennessee Rolling-Mills, 56.

Chapter IV

The Mineral Wealth or Tennessee, continued. — Geological Products not used as Ores, etc 91

SECTION L

Stone Coal, 91-100: Extent and Quantity, 92; Quality of, 95; Production, etc., in 1854, 96; Production of in 1855, 98; Consumption of Kentucky Coal, etc., 98.

SECTION IL

Lignite, 100-103: Occurrence of in Tennessee, etc., 101.

SECTION IIL

Marble, 103-112: Variegated Fossiliferous Marble, Production of, etc., 104; Grayish-White Marble, 109; Magnesian Marble, 110; Black Marble, 110; Breccia and Conglomerate Marble, 110.

SECTION IV.

Green-sand or Marl, 112-116: Appearance and Composition of, 113; Its Value and Use, etc., 114.

SECTION V.

Salt-like Products, etc., 116-121: Salt, 116; Nitre, 117; Alum, 118; Epsom- Salts, 119; Gypsum, 119; Manganese, 120; Native Sulphur, 120; Mineral Waters, 120.

SECTION VI.

Rocky Products, etc, 121-125: Hydraulic Limestone, 121; Buhrstone and Millstone Grit, 122; Roofing Slate, 123; Flagging-Stones, 124; Other Products, 125.

Section VII

Meteorites, 125-128: The Lincoln Meteorite, 125; Tennessee Meteorites in General, 127. CONTENTS.

CHAPTER V. The Geological Structure of Tennessee 129

SECTION L

The Stratified Condition of the Rocks, and the Grouping of them in Formations, 129-132.

SECTION II.

The Origin of the Formations, 132-135. SECTION in. The Denudation of the Formations in Middle and West Tennessee, 135-137.

SECTION IV.

The Folding, Dislocation, Denudation, aud Metamorphism of the Formations in East Tennessee: Table of the Formations, 137-149.

Chapter I. Introductory

THE GEOLOGICAL SURVEY. 1. Its objects and utility. — As some of our friends may be unin formed in regard to the nature of the survey, we think, perhaps, it will be acceptable to give, at the outset, an outline of the objects pro posed, and the practical benefits aimed at. We have, therefore, specified several considerations, to which we invite attention. Among them, the two following are eminently practical and important, and are leading objects in the survey. First. The development and the elucidation of the mineral wealth of the State. Secondly. The development of the agricultural resources of the State; the thorough examination and classification of its soils, ivith reference to their improvement and greatest production. 2. In regard to the first, the great points are : to discover and develop mineral resources, that are, as yet, unknown; to trace out, through their length and breadth, valuable beds, strata, and veins of all sorts, now, in many cases, known only at single points, and thus to extend the resources of these single points over a long line of country, reaching, it may be, through half a dozen counties ; — for example, starting from an isolated opening of coal, or marble, or galena, or iron ore, to trace the stratum or vein that affords it, through its entire extent, and thus to lay the way for a long line of such openings. 3.

Another point is, to indicate the best methods for making practi cally available all these geological and mineral products in contributing to the interests of our citizens, and the wealth of the State ; this we do, by pointing out sites suitable for furnaces and forges, localities favorable for economic mining, points for the opening of coal-banks, of millstone and marble quarries ; by indicating the utility and market value of this product, and the mode of using that ; by determining the relative worth and the qualities of the different coals, ores, mineral manures, building materials, etc., through the means of chemical analyses and experiments, thus enabling us to select the best, and to assign each to its specific use. All these the survey has done, and is capable of doing far more extensively. 4.

Another collateral and important point is, to make out and present, in a satisfactory form, a full account of what we already know and are doing with reference to our mineral wealth, in order, thereby, that capitalists, abroad and at home, may become informed and assured of its real value. Statistical information has a great influence, not only upon the credit of the State, but in giving direction to capital unemployed and seeking investment. Such information is a great index, marking the road to the regions that promise most. How is it with reference to Tennessee ? Are her columns in the mineral statistical tables of the country a fair representation of her actual resources, or are they vague and worthless ? Let us see. 5. The author of the only standard work on the coal and coal-trade of the United States,* complains greatly of the meagre statistical information he has with reference to Tennessee, and excuses his short * Statistics of Coal.

By R. C. Taylor. Second edition : revised, and brought down to 1854, by Prof. S. S. Haldeman. THE SURVEY. notice by saying that, "It is evident that much remains to be done in Tennessee, in the way of geological elucidation, and the development of the coal and iron of the State." We met lately with an article from a distant State, in which the author thought it necessary to prove laboriously — as if there could be doubt about it — that coal does really occur in our Cumberland table land, which "will pay" to work ! These are not isolated examples. Books and papers on the metallic wealth,* and the mineral productions of the country generally, pass us by, or give us, at most, a humiliating notice. 6. Now what is the effect of all this? Most surely, to throw a damper upon the prospects of those who turn their attention to Tennessee — to keep, perhaps to drive, enterprise and capital out of the State — to permit the resources of other regions, not as promising but better known, to attract the money and men seeking employment.

If t the survey, then, should do nothing more than to place our productive mineral wealth, by means of statistical tables, etc., in the proper light before the world, it will be of great service to the State. 7. But, again, in regard to our agricultural resources. To know what our soils consist of ; what they lack ; how they can be improved ; how many varieties they present ; to what each is best adapted ; and how we can attain to their maximum production, are certainly points of great interest. To determine these is among the objects proposed. But, it may be asked, how are these connected with the Geological Survey ? We will endeavor to show. The soil may, properly, be regarded as a geological product ; for it is generally the result of the disintegration or crumbling of the rock or formation upon which it rests, and always varies, more or less, as this varies.

Hence we have limestone, sandstone, slate, and granite soils. The connection is even more intimate than this : the soil of limestone, for instance, varies with the impurities of the limestone, and * See, especially, Whitney's elegant and valuable work on the Metallic Wealth of the United States, p. 475. may be mellow or stiff, sandy or argillaceous, red or yellow, according to these impurities. Now, did we but know the characters, range, and extent of each of the geological formations, or, in other words, of each of the great rocky layers, the outcrops of which make up, something like mosaic-work, the surface of the State, the labor would be, at least, half done toward the systematic investigation and classification of our soils. 8. To illustrate, we will briefly refer to the limestones and soils of central Middle Tennessee.

These limestones, differing in the kind and relative quantity of the impurities they contain, such as sand, clay, oxide of iron, etc., can be easily separated into at least three distinct groups, one after the other forming the surface rock. Ranges of these are passed over in going from Murfreesboro' to Nashville. Each one affords, coextensive with itself, a specific soil : the reddish chocolate cotton lands about Murfreesboro' are characteristic of one, group ; the thin soil of the cedar glades, which surround the last in a great circle, mark the range of another; the mellow "mulatto" and excellent lands of the greater part of Davidson, that of the third — all differing, as the rocks upon which they rest differ. In each case, a knowledge of the characters of the limestone enables us to anticipate the characters of the soil, and to account for its peculiarities.

Such, in general, being the connection, it is easy to see how the Geological Survey will contribute to a knowledge of our soils — in fact, how it affords the only practicable basis for a systematic description of them. The general characters, together with the range and extent of each kind, having been made out by the survey, it will be a comparatively easy task, by mean3 of practical experiments, observations, etc., to complete the work. So much for the leading objects of the survey. 9. We will add three other important considerations. First. Whde it is essential to know what useful products particular regions can furnish, it is, in many cases, equally as essential to know what they cannot furnish ; for, otherwise, capital and a laudable enter prise may take the wrong direction. In fact, there has been, in Ten nessee, enough time, money, and labor squandered in searching for THE SURVEY.

"metals," coal, etc., in places where they cannot possibly be found, to pay for half a dozen practical geological surveys. Such operations would continue, without a survey, to the end of time. We will give but one example out of very many known to us. There is, in Middle Tennessee, a great layer of black slate, occurring, more or less, in every county. This slate — simply because it is slate, and black — has been dug into for stone-coal in at least two hundred places. It is, in fact, no more indicative of coal, in the position it occupies, than is the blue limestone below it. The labor and money thus expended have all been thrown away. The proper statement of the geological relations of this formation would have prevented it, and, what is more, it would have made known, to those interested, a real product, which it can be made to afford, and upon which their enterprise might have been profitably expended.

I allude to alum, for the manufacture of which this slate, in many places, is well adapted. Other examples of like nature will occur, no doubt, to many of my readers within the range of their own observation, and perhaps experience. We have enough of real value in Tennessee for the employ ment of our capital and enterprise, without wasting them in misdirected speculations. The practical utility of the survey, in this matter, must be apparent. 10. Secondly. There is a large class of our citizens who are inter ested in geology as a science. . Their claims must not be overlooked. All our colleges, seminaries, and schools of any pretensions, teach it. The geology they teach, however, borrows its illustrations and facts from abroad — the results of the labors of others mostly in foreign countries.

It thus loses half its interest, and half its practical value. This necessity is humiliating, especially as we have around us a most fertile field, a vast treasury, almost unopened, of facts unsurpassed in interest, and highly illustrative of the principles of the science. Let us open this treasury — let us make the geological phenomena of Tennessee accessible to the teacher, so that he may draw his illus trations from the rocks, the minerals, the mines, the fossils, etc., around him, and thus bring the subject home to his pupils. 11. Finally. In thus securing all these practical objects, we have besides the pleasure to know that we are contributing our mite to the cause of general science. In this day of telegraphs, of steam and electricity, of railroads and steamships, it would be ungrateful to over look her claims.

She is the basis of a thousand arts, and the prime agent in the perfection of a thousand more. All that is contributed to her will be repaid a hundred-fold. 12. Plan and progress of the survey. — The plan pursued has been, first, to make out a General Survey or Reconnoissance of the whole State. In fact, the wishes of our citizens required this course, and left us no alternative. Nothing, however, has been lost, for it is, perhaps, the most efficient method that could have been adopted. It gives an outline of the geological character and mineral products of the whole field ; enables us to designate points of especial interest, and such as are worthy of a detailed examination ; makes known the cha racters common to distinct regions, and thus uniting them, shortens the work. It lays before the geologist his entire field, determines his routes, economizes his time, and, in all respects, clears the way for the successful and rapid prosecution of what follows next in order, a de tailed survey. 13.

In carrying out the reconnoissance, the first consideration has been to trace out the great geological formations ;* for these constitute, as we have already said in regard to the soils, the basis of all future operations, and without them there can be no systematic survey ; they are the great storehouses, each of which contains its own mineral trea sures ; nor need we think of easily securing these treasures, complete and entire, without a knowledge of the position and extent of their great repositories. This part of the survey has, in a general way, been accomplished. The formations, with but few exceptions, from the Mississippi River to the North Carolina line, have been traced out, and their general range and limits ascertained and given upon the map accompanying the * For the meaning we attach to formation, see Chapter V. THE SURVEY. report.

In the sixth chapter they are enumerated, and their characters and products noticed. 14. Another consideration has been, while at work in the field, to make out, as far as time would permit, the useful mineral contents of each formation. This, as we have already intimated, is the second step in our progress, and properly follows the making out of the formations. It must become the leading feature in the survey. Much already has been done. Dr. Troost's researches, although he never had the means to give them that scope and utility desirable, have nevertheless accomplished much toward this end ; and, by the way, we could easily now point out how his labors have already paid the State, in actual capital, three-fold more than they cost it. Again, the enterprise of many of our fellow-citizens has contri buted largely to a knowledge of our mineral wealth.

We would be pleased to enumerate the contributions of each one, and shall do so as far as it is in our power. Finally, our own labors in this matter have, we trust, not been fruit less. The pleasure has often been afforded us of pointing out valuable beds, minerals, etc., before unknown, and of calling attention to other useful products hitherto little regarded. These will be spoken of here after. In the third and fourth chapters we have endeavored to give, among other things, a general account of what has been accomplished for this feature of the survey. 15. Attention also has been given, in a general way, to agricultural characters, and the description of each formation will be followed by a notice of its soil. This feature of our work is perhaps equal to the last in importance. Much remains to be done in this interesting field ; in fact, we have but just entered it.

We desire to have it in our power to analyze a great number of soils, and to institute a series of experiments upon certain mineral manures found within the State. Hitherto our constant labor in the field has not allowed us much time for system atic analyses. 16. We have also made it a point, in our travels over the State, to gather all the statistical information we could in regard to our mineral production. The results are given in chapters third and fourth, and I trust may prove acceptable, at least as far as they go. Finally, in the midst of our regular labors, we have at all times endeavored to accommodate our fellow-citizens as far as possible, by visiting localities of real or imaginary interest, and by testing and analyzing the specimens brought to us, hundreds of which we have examined.

Chapter II. Introductory

— THE GREAT NATURAL DIVISIONS OF TENNESSEE. 17. The seven divisions.* — As it will frequently be necessary to refer, specifically, to those great regions of the State, each of which has physical characters of its own, we think it best, before proceeding farther, to enumerate and describe them. They are peculiarly distinct, not only topographically, but with reference to their rocks, minerals, and soils. Upon them are based, in part, the three political divisions of East, Middle, and West Tennessee. The following notices will relate mostly to their extent, limits, relief, and general aspects, with occasional references to their soils and agricultural features. We enumerate seven of them. The first three, running through the eastern part of the State, belong to the great Alleghany or Appala chian system of mountains and valleys.

Commencing with the most eastern, they are as follows : 1st. The Unaka Bed of Mountains ; 2d. The Valley of East Tennessee ; 3d. The Cumberland Table-land ; 4th. The Highland Rim of Middle Tennessee, encircling 5th. The Central Limestone Basin ; 6th. The Slopes of West Tennessee ; and 1th. The Mississippi Bottoms. 18. 1st. The Unaka Bed of Mountains. — This name we give to the whole group of great and wild mountain ridges which run through the * See also, in connection with this chapter, the map and the section at its base. State along its eastern boundary, and which occupy a strip of its area, on an average, about eight or ten miles wide. The highest of these constitute, for the most part, the line separating us from North Carolina. This great bed is cut through by the Watauga, the Nolichucky, the French Broad, the Big Pigeon, the Tennessee, the Hiwassee and Ocoee.

These rivers, in their courses from the western slopes of the Blue Ridge, in North Carolina and Georgia, break through in narrow, deep, and, in some cases, almost inaccessible gorges, within which their waters are tossed, in rapids, over the rocks for miles. The water-power afforded by these streams, as they issue from among the mountains, is immense, and at numerous points available. East Tennessee has much to gain from the effective natural power thus given her. 19. Many of the mountain ridges are continuous for long distances, while others are short and interrupted. The greatest local bed — called the Great Smoky — occurs along the line in Cocke, Sevier, and Blount. In Washington and Carter, there is another series nearly as great and even greater in altitude, including the lofty and beautiful mountains, the Bald and the Roan.

All along, from Virginia to Georgia, the great ridges trend to the south-east and north-west, mar shalling themselves in parallel or nearly parallel ranges, occasionally united by great arms, which run across. Sometimes, however, oblique to the general direction, they converge, run up, and culminate in some lofty peak. Many interrupted outlying ranges, such as the Stone, in Carter, the Buffalo, the Meadow Creek, the Chilhowee, and Star's Mountains, start up suddenly, just within the edge of the valley below, and cut off long, narrow coves, overlooked on both sides by mountains, and rich in iron ores. 20. Occasionally, we find the ridges exceedingly rough, and spread over with heavy evergreen thickets, but more frequently covered with open woods, through which it is not difficult to ride for miles.

On many of them the soil affords a fine growth, and an abundance of wild grass and vines, upon which droves of stock are kept and fattened. These, at present, wild regions are well suited for excellent high land pasture-grounds, and ought, some day, to be covered with culti vated grasses. The height of these mountains is from two thousand to six thousand feet. Many of the highest points are destitute of trees, but, prairie like, abound in ferns and wild grass. Such points are called " bald places," or simply the "balds." We have seen them, in the summer season, alive with stock of all kinds, literally feeding and fattening among the clouds. 21. The views obtained from these "balds," when the sky is cloud less, are really magnificent. Eastward a vast bed of mountains appears ; but westward the valley of East Tennessee far below can be seen, spreading out like a rich and variegated carpet ; its rolling sur face becomes a plain, spotted all over with evidences of activity and life.

When, at first, we turn from the wild peaks immediately around, it indeed looks like a "land of promise." From some of these points the eye reaches entirely across the valley. The table-land of the Cumberland can be seen, far to the west, rising up dimly, and termi nating the view. The geological structure and mineral products of the Unaka group will be spoken of hereafter. 22. 2d. The Valley of East Tennessee. — This populous and beautiful portion of the State is flanked on the south-east by the great bed of mountains just spoken of, and on the north-west and west by the Cumberland table-land. The valley is thus limited and overlooked on both sides by mountains ; but opens out north-eastward into Vir ginia, and south-westward into Georgia — widening as it approaches the former, but narrowed as it enters the latter.

It is mostly a great group of small troughs, or narrow straight valleys, separated by long parallel ridges, all trending, as a general thing, to the north-east and south-west. This parallelism of ridges and valleys is one of the characteristics of East Tennessee, and results entirely from its geological structure. Owing to it the surface of the country is often rolling. "Across the country" is here a very significant phrase. The luckless traveller whose route lies in that direction understands it, and, unless happily favored with breaks and "gaps" in the ridges, prepares for "Wave on wave succeeding!" On the other hand, "up" or "down" the country is as equally signifi cant of good level roads, and enables the tardy driver "to make time." 23. We cannot here enumerate the numerous valleys that this Division includes.

Many of them are noted for their great beauty and fertility. There are several, more or less cut off from the main group by arms and outliers of the Cumberland and Unaka, which, in all their physical characters, belong to this Division. Such are the interesting valley of Sequatchee, that of the Elk Fork, and the coves (§ 19) included in the mountain ranges of the Unaka. 24. The valley ridges are important features in the topography of the country.' Some of them, steep and roof-like, run for more than a hundred miles in a straight or gently curving line. Several are entitled to the name of mountains. In the northern part of the State, especially, there are three groups, which ought to be mentioned. First, the Bay's Mountain group, an interesting bed of half a dozen parallel, straight and crowded ridges, lying mostly in and between the counties of Jefferson and Hawkins on the one hand, and Sullivan and Greene on the other.* This is exclusively a Tennessee series.