Zigzag Travels

Chapter I

4th November 1892. — In train; just left Reading — destination, Liverpool. Dull day ; colouring entirely " neutral tint." Leaves thick on the trees, and mostly yellow. Weather very chilly, damp, and unpleasant. I am greatly puzzled about myself. Having always been considered a coward of the most un mitigated description, now that I am starting like this to try and go round the world alone, people call me brave. My personal sensations remain as usual, so the symptoms of cowardice and courage must be strangely alike. I sketched Oxford as we passed along by the river side, and, later on, the little piece that was visible through the drifting clouds of the Wrekin, in Shropshire, and a distant peep of the Welsh hills, near Shrewsbury, also a lovely valley near Ruabon, in Denbighshire. The Black Country, near Birmingham, seemed altogether horrible — the atmosphere totally black, and thick with the discharge from innumerable huge chimneys and furnaces, with flames in many cases coming out at the top.

We reached Birkenhead at dusk, and crossed over to Liverpool in a ferry. The light of a struggling moon partly concealed by clouds, the many lamps on the ships and on the opposite banks of land, with the rippling water, VOL I. A and curious effects of shadow from clouds, smoke, and fog, made a fascinating picture. It was pleasant to arrive at the Adelphi Hotel, where my fears and loneliness found much relief in several letters there awaiting me. Next day (the 5th of November) was very trying; the weather dull, wet, and cold, which is always depressing ; and cowardice resuming its usual pro minent position in my character, I very nearly gave it all up, when, after I had said " good-bye," it suddenly occurred to me that the little steamer had only myself on board in the shape of a woman. The Costa Rican was out in the harbour, and when we reached her I asked at once, and found I was the only lady passenger.

However, the stewardess looked nice ; and I am glad now that I decided to start. It is a very odd experience, and makes one feel as if dreaming ; but one sees much more of the real sea life than I did before, on either " P. and O." or " Orient " ships. I sketched the Rock Light, New Brighton, and the Skerries as we left the river Mersey. 10th November 1892. — We passed the Azores early this morning, and, although the mists and clouds were over them, we saw a good deal of San Miguel, and I tried to sketch it from my port-hole window. It seemed quite a large island, and the mountains and vivid greens reminded me much of the view across the Lake of Geneva, from Montreux and Glion. Steep, dark, rocky cliffs, green patches, and little white houses on ledges high up above the cliffs. Deep ravines appeared, descending from the higher mountains, and streams flowed into the sea from valleys along the shore.

I see in " Whittaker's Almanack " that the Azores and Madeira together make up 1237 square miles, and their population of 401,624 is also, as well as their land, considered as part of Portugal. So my re searches after information have not told me much. We are having a delightful trip now, with lovely weather, but it was very cold for the first few days after leaving Liverpool. It is now so warm that I am in my chair on deck without any wraps over my shoulders— a jacket being sufficient. We are on the shady side of the deck, and begin to wonder when the awnings will be put up. There are forty-eight men on board and two women, and six large boats, so we shall have plenty of room in case we have to take to them. I have a nice cabin to myself, and am quite comfortable and happy. On the 8th, several whales were about the ship for some time, the first I have seen.

They did not look as large as I expected, but the captain told me he thought they were each about 50 feet long. Yesterday we saw another. As I sit writing, the back fin of a shark is per petually popping up out of the sea. It has followed since we left San Miguel, and must be a monster ; a sailor says about 9 feet in length. I never saw so large a fin before, and it is quite black. The sea is a glorious colour — cobalt and ultra marine, with darker shades ; the sky blue, with light fleecy clouds ; altogether a southern day. There is nothing whatever to see in any direction except sky and water; no ships, no birds. We seem to roll a good deal, but it is that long swell one has, when well out at sea, and hardly perceptible. The captain has just told me that on his last voyage, a few weeks ago, they had, as they steamed along the Spanish Main, a number of refugees on board, for protection.

It seems very doubtful if I shall be able to land at La Guayra, and get up to Caracas. Saturday, 12th November. — It is now 75° in the shade, and very warm and comfortable. The awnings are up, and the weather continues to be lovely. A long way off in front of us a little sail is visible — the first thing we have seen for days. Even the shark did not remain — a comfort, I fancy, to those who told me a shark only follows a ship on which there is going to be a death. The creatures in the Atlantic appear to grow to a large size. I hear of horned rays, or skates, 25 feet long and 30 feet wide; and that, near Newfoundland, cuttlefish, or octopus, are found with arms 30 feet long, so as to measure 60 feet from tip to tip. A tall giraffe stands about 20 feet to the top of its horns, I believe, and 22 feet makes a large crocodile.

How pleased I should be if a sea-serpent would appear near this steamer, or either of these marine giants. This quiet life at sea is more agreeable to me than the incessant games, dancing, theatricals, etc., we had on board the P. and O. s.s. when I went to Australia. My struggles to learn Spanish continue ; but, so far, the results are trifling. At night now the stars are very beautiful. To the north the Great Bear and North Star. Rather to the south, Mars, looking bright red. Jupiter to the south-east. A conversation on deck about the variations of the compass has greatly disturbed my ideas of " the needle still points to the north." I do not feel sure that I remember exactly what was said, but the needle appears to be affected by the magnetism of the bulk of the entire earth, not of the North Pole alone.

In some places it inclines to the west, in others to the east, in others north, and in some places towards the centre of the earth. We are now 34' 39° west longitude, 30' 340 north latitude. 16th November 1892.— We have seen nothing at all since Saturday — four days ago ; that evening we had one of the most glorious of sunsets. The sea was blue-purple all along the horizon. The sky a most vivid gold, which, higher up, became red gold ; then the red gold faded into the purest pink, and over our heads that became bright turquoise blue ; and across this blue shot long rays of the most clear pinks and whites and golds. Several thick clouds floated in the air, with bril liant edges of silver and burnt sienna, surrounding the central mass of rich purples and browns. Since this sunset we have had a good deal of rain and dull weather, and we are now in the trade winds, which seems to me much the same sort of weather as that which in the Indian Ocean they called the monsoon.

Hot and moist, and every thing is more or less sticky. We hope to get to Barbadoes in about forty-eight hours. This voyage is very pleasant — a particularly nice deck, both for chairs and walking, with a lower deck at each end, and to "finish off" the ship, another piece of the high deck at the stern and at the bow. It makes quite a picturesque appearance. I am now in my deck-chair under the awning, and see the lower deck, with sailors working among ropes, and two large, and really intelligent, sheep, walking about among the sailors — a little exercise out of their pens being considered beneficial for the mutton of the future. Shoals (or coveys, for they move like partridges) of flying fish are skimming over the white crests of the waves away from the ship, as she passes swiftly through the deep blue water.

Chapter II

i8th November 1892. — Barbadoes. A long low island, looking like the Isle of Wight as we approached it ; the hills undulating like the chalk Downs of England, which is curious, if chalk and coral are really of the same formation, for I am told Barbadoes consists of coral only. All the green being sugar-canes instead of grass, the cultivated land was a far more vivid green. The waves were dashing over the coral reefs, and clouds of spray were flying from the dangerous Cobbler's Reef. Near these rocks, on the island, a fine grove of palms waved their long fronds in the wind, and with their brown trunks, and the yellow sand, formed a beautiful frame for the emerald-green water sleeping peacefully inside the protecting arms of the coral reef. The difference of colour in the sea, inside and outside a reef, is very striking at first to a stranger.

We passed the South Point Lighthouse, and soon saw the village or suburb of Hastings, with irregu larly-built houses along the low rocky shore. The south coast was well wooded, and many palms and trees, unknown to me, grew thickly along the picturesque slopes. As we entered the harbour of Bridgetown, an English man-of-war was departing, with a regiment on board, and so long a pennant hanging from the mast, that the end of it, far behind in the water, looked like some marine curiosity. They tell me this pennant shows the length of the regiment's foreign service. The glare of the sun, so hot, so bright, and so tropical ; the rowing-boats, with negroes clothed in brilliant colours or in snow-white garments, all dashing about and gesticulating ; other boats with white people more quiet in their movements ; the sea fresh and blue; the white buildings of the town, among which appeared tall palm-trees, and in the distance the blue hills — all this made my first impression of the West Indies a very pleasing one.

We landed on a long paved wharf, and I was taken into a large building opposite the landing steps, where I sent off a telegram. Then we walked on into the town and explored. Bridgetown is quite a large place, with a population of 21,000 people; and in the island the in habitants average 1098 to the square mile, of which square miles there are 166. Everything is white, dusty, and untidy. Very narrow side-walks edge the streets, with the deepest of gutters — absolute pitfalls for the unwary — between them and the road. A mixed multitude, of black, and white, and every other possible tint, filled the streets, laughing and talking, and, I suppose, working. The negresses, many of them extremely good looking, were almost always in white dresses of muslin or lawn, with white headgear or hats — the handkerchief turban being by far the most be coming.

I saw several women holding up really good white muslin skirts, and under petticoats with lace, to avoid the thick mud, and showing bare brown legs and feet. The buildings, the roads, and all things, are constructed of coral ; and no one, seeing the exact resemblance of the wet mud in the well-watered streets of Bridgetown to any muddy chalk lane in England, could doubt that chalk and coral are nearly related. Everyone was most civil and kind. If we hesitated about the route some passer-by always came to our rescue, and guided us to wherever we were going, even if their immediate object in life lay in another direction. Some of the party wanted to buy Christmas cards, and found very good ones at a huge shop, five stories in height. I saw several shops that looked excellent. In some they told me the clothing came from England, the furniture from the United States.

There has been no hurricane since this five storied building was erected, and it is thought it will certainly be destroyed should such a storm arise. A picturesque building of grey stone, with cloisters, and beautiful trees, was the Government offices. We saw two Council Chambers, fine painted glass windows, a handsome gold mace, and some portraits, but the sun was low in the west, and the light too dim, to distinguish any thing properly. Barbadoes seems an important place, and has its own governor ; and large quantities of sugar, rum, aloes, etc., are exported. I asked about the original inhabitants — the Caribs and the Arrowauks — but they appear to be almost all extinct. We went to the " Ice House " — a sort of club upstairs, over stalls and shops below, and had green oranges, and bananas, and iced water; and I told them to take some oranges to meet us at the boat, for the benefit of the sailors and those who had had to remain on board the steamer.

Then we went to a curiosity shop, and I bought a dried flying-fish, a globe-fish, a cow-fish, some things made of fish-scales, etc. We made an expedition by tram to Hastings, an interesting little trip for strangers. You cross a bridge over part of the harbour, or a river, and then go along narrow roads between small houses in habited by the dark population. Among the strange sights were several black negroes with bright blue eyes ; and three children with black eyes and skins, and negro features, and light golden wool. The Savannah, a large grass field, with fine trees, and a distant view of blue mountains, was very pretty ; and the barracks near it looked airy and cool. The vegetation was very fascinating — bread-fruit trees, palms, trees with red flowers, others with large yellow jasmine flowers, creepers with purple blossoms, etc.

All the poor animals were totally miserable ; donkeys, mules, ponies, dogs, and cats, all looked terribly neglected and out of condition. Some of the donkeys and mules wrere being fed with bunches of the green flat leaves of the sugar-cane, called here cane-wheat. We returned to the ship in time for dinner, and I was quite glad to be again out at sea ; the rest and fresh air were most refreshing after a tiring, but very enjoyable, day. The following day (the 19th of November) we reached Trinidad, and I was much disappointed to find we saw nothing of Tobago. However, the wonderful beauty of the north coast of the Island of Trinidad made all regrets cease. The long range of mountains is very picturesque, with lofty peaks, and precipitous rocky sides clear down into the sea below. Evidently they are a continuation of the mountains of the Spanish Main that we saw like pink clouds away to our right.

It was really perfectly lovely : the sky a glow of the brightest pink and gold, and, as the sun rose, a creamy mist floated upwards from the sea, and hovered above the rocky shores. Other mists moved gently from the ravines and valleys till, as one stood on deck, it seemed a vision of rainbows over the bright blue waves. Three wide gaps in this mountain chain permit the sea to flow south. These are the Bocas, re joicing respectively in the names of Boca de Huevos, Boca de Navios, and Boca de Mona ; and through the Boca de Huevos we passed into the Gulf of Paria. The Bocas all resembled each other in rocks, in danger, and in beauty of rocky shores, rich vegetation, lovely little bays, with creepers hanging down over the white waves, and brilliant blue and emerald-green water. As I stood about on the deck looking at it all, I felt very glad that the cold, and neutral tints, of England were far away, and wondered when I should really wish to return to my native land.

Chapter III

Port of Spain looked very lovely as we steamed towards it : the mountain peaks rising boldly against the sky, and the valleys, behind the town, in shadow of deepest blue. Along the shore the low white houses appeared among the palms and immense clumps of bamboos. On a slightly rising ground behind the town the Savannah and Govern ment House could be faintly seen. Several vessels were at anchor, and among them some American yachts, with masts slanting forwards at the top — about the advantages of which such different opinions exist. 19th November 1892. — Haley's Family Hotel is considered the best, and its situation is capital — near the landing-place, and overlooking a wide avenue, with roads and houses on each side. To the west one saw the sea glittering in the sunshine, between the leaves of the trees, and looking to the left, the view ended with the Roman Catholic Cathedral, placed in the middle of the avenue, which continues beyond the building.

All this open space is much frequented, and it was interesting having five o'clock tea at a small table in the balcony under the immense wooden roofs, and watching those most extraordinary birds — scavenger vultures — a rusty black colour, with dirty white tips to their wings, who seemed equally un gainly, whether trying to walk, to hop, or to fly. On the grass, under the trees, wonderfully graceful and dignified Indian coolies were standing about, in bright-coloured draperies, and wearing silver bangles, and other ornaments, while most of the noise from below seemed to proceed from the powerful-looking negroes and negresses, many of them with particularly nice expressions on their faces. The lower part of this hotel is shops. In the centre is a courtyard full of poultry and ducks, with one goose, whose voice is always to be heard, and, fastened to a beam supporting the balcony surrounding this courtyard, is a large grey monkey.

The bed-rooms have a sort of frieze, a yard in width, of open woodwork, all round the top of the walls. This is of course for ventilation, but it also allows a free passage to sound, which is not so pleasant. I heard some Venezuelan Spaniards abusing the nice negress who waited on me for not understanding what they said. Her reply of " Sah, my native language, sah, of course is English," electrified me, for till then I had not realised that these Africans have lost all trace of their own. After the five o'clock tea in the balcony, I was taken for my first West Indian drive — one always to be remembered by me with great pleasure. We went up the strange streets towards the Savannah, then off to the left, by great groves of gigantic bamboos, and immense trees, and strange-looking Indian cattle ; then, after passing a coolie village, with little brown naked children playing near the small huts, that frequently had large blue and yellow macaws tethered to the roofs, we crossed a bridge and found ourselves at the entrance of a valley.

Up this Marival Valley we drove, between fields of sugar-cane, the grass by the side of the road being covered with pretty flowers like a white star. The road continued to ascend in what appeared to me the wildest of forests, but which I was told was a cocoa plantation, and certainly we saw plenty of the huge red and gold pods, hanging from the boughs and trunks of the beautiful shrubs, or short trees, with leaves of rich dark green and tints of red. The large straggly trees towering above the cocoa are called " Bois Imortelle," or " Madre di Cacao," without whose protection the cocoa bushes will not grow. When these large trees are in flower they are beautiful, having masses of golden pink blossom. The water-works to supply the town of Port of Spain are up this valley. The stream providing the water is charming, rushing rapidly over rocks and stones, under Gothic arches formed by bamboos, averaging ioo feet in length.

As we returned, the sunset hour was approaching, and it was absolutely glorious. We drove slowly along the upper road of the Savannah, while floods of gold and rose light filled the air. The sun, like a ball of fire, sank into the purple sea, the light seemed to quiver, then great distinct rays of white, of pink, and of blue, shot up from the western horizon, like a fan, till over our heads they disappeared in the silvery blue of the fast-coming night. It remained thus a few moments, then all was dark — the stars shone brightly, innumerable fire-flies appeared, and the strong scents of the night-blooming flowers filled the air. We drove on, meeting carriages filled with languid, dark-eyed women — many of them with flowers in their hair — and equally exhausted-looking men, all trying to profit by the only hour of healthy cool air.

In the evenings mists arise, and dews fall, so that, from sunset till well after sunrise, there is much to give the dreaded malaria fever. Indeed, many places, swamps, and localities of that sort, are dangerous at all times, and people passing, in a carriage, or train, frequently suffer. One is not allowed to sit beyond the shelter of a verandah after dinner, or to walk in the gardens, for fear of fever. The grass is peculiar, a wide, coarse-looking leaf, and grows luxuriantly on the Savannah, and in the Botanical Gardens. This Savannah at Trinidad, like that at Barbadoes, is a large field or park, with grass and trees, fine palms, and saman trees, and many others whose names I do not know, and it is surrounded by a wide road — the fashionable drive of Port of Spain. In the centre of the Savannah is an old Spanish cemetery.

Originally it was all a sugar plantation, and when the owners sold it they reserved their cemetery. The race-course and the grand stand are also in this centre part. It is all quite small, but extremely pretty, and the villas surrounding this open space have magnificent scarlet pointsettias in their gardens, and hibiscus with large flowers of every shade, from cream to crimson. Government House, or, as it is also called here St Anne's, is a very fine building — one of the best of its species belonging to England, I am told. It is situated in the delightful Botanical Gardens. From the house you see the sea, across the gardens and the Savannah, and in the distance the south point of the Island of Trinidad, where the pitch lake exists, and the curious hill above San Fernando. The house is charming, so open and airy, evidently not built with any fear of earthquakes, for the entire ground floor seems barely to contain walls sufficient to support the upper rooms, and the slightest jar would probably send the four bed rooms and the bath-room, now over the ball-room, down on to that excellent floor below.

Everything is arranged for air and space. Yet one always feels here as in a stifling orchid-house, and that if only one could get outside the door, and shut it for a few moments, one would enjoy its contents all the better for an interval of fresh air. Never in all my life have I been so hot ; it makes me feel absolutely faint and ill. The many treasures in these Botanical Gardens are explained in the kindest way by its learned Director. It is a surprise to me to find how few of the plants and trees actually belong to Trinidad. Many of the seeds and little plants come from collectors and seedsmen in London. All thrive wonderfully in this steamy heat. Among the largest trees are those called Saman, that have leaves rather like the Acacia. Their immense branches and trunks are covered with large plants of growing parasites, orchids, a sort of hanging mistletoe, a species of vine with large leaves like arum lilies, pines (bromelia), that look to me like wild pineapples, lovely ferns and cacti, and many other plants ; the long air-roots hanging down look like ropes.

A strange tree is called Bohinia, from twin French brothers, because of its double leaf. It comes from the Sandwich Isles, I believe ; so later on I may see it again. It is one of those that flower at night, and then it is covered with bats. The papaw tree, alias papaine, is curious and pretty. A slender trunk crowned by large-pointed drooping leaves, below which, on the trunk, are insignificant white flowers, and oval green fruit that eventually becomes an orange colour, in some varieties. It seems a remedy for everything — a natural "patent medicine." You constantly see trees of it near kitchens, for meat wrapped up in a leaf soon becomes tender. The trees I admire most are the royal palms and the bread-fruit trees — the palms for their perfect grace and height, the bread-fruit for the rich green of the beautiful leaves.

The musa ensete, from Jamaica, about 40 feet high, is handsome, and mountain pride, from the same island, is very pretty, in shape like a palm but with leaves like an exaggerated vetch. A roncon annato tree has pods full of orange seeds, which are used for colouring butter. Another large tree is the choi mugra, considered to be an antidote for leprosy. The cassia laburnum is like our laburnums, only in every respect about ten times larger. When in flower it must be quite glorious. The palms are most beautiful, of all sorts and sizes. One variety, with quite a short trunk and a huge white flower, is used for making bone buttons, instead of ivory or bones. Pineapples grow like artichokes (not Jerusalem artichokes). Flower-pots are pieces of bamboo, the joints forming the bottom of the pot. No things here are more lovely than the clumps of bamboos, generally about ioo feet high.

A tree near the drive up has an immense liane on it, which is a sort of vegetable octopus. It has no leaves, and exactly resembles large ropes. It is most frightful and curious, and makes an excellent swing. A tree close by has been killed by it, and the one it now has hold of is certain to have the same fate. Port of Spain is considered the best town in the West Indies, and contains 33,273 inhabitants. The island consists of 1754 square miles, and it has a population of 205,753. It was discovered by Columbus in 1498, and has belonged to us since 1797. The town is the oddest place possible. The principal feature is the gutters. They are wide, deep, and rough, so that whenever streets cross there is literally a sort of island. Over, and into, these gutters you drive, and the unhappy horses struggle along through a wilderness of large and small loose stones, and cocks and hens, and little chickens, and children of all sizes and every shade of colour, dogs, and horribly dirty scavenger birds.

In walking, the ascents, and descents, of the pavements, are found to be positively mountainous. But what makes up for all discomforts in the way of smells, and dirt, are the wonderful shadows, and lights, and the brightness of the colouring. Women, with perfectly-formed dark brown arms, with bangles, and red scarfs over their heads, large dark eyes, bangles on their ankles, and rings in their noses and ears ; little naked brown children ; tall, thin, fierce-looking dark men, with turbans and picturesque drapery, and astoundingly thin bare legs. All these are Indians from India. The negroes are fat and black, and are either very jolly-looking, or extremely dignified. I saw several Africans wearing " widows' weeds," and they really looked most distressingly black. Many of the women are quite ladies in their movements and manners, and many of the men are equally like gentlemen.

The ordinary negress is comical. They have a habit of taking a handful of the fullness of their skirts, on each side at the back, and bringing it to the front, and there tucking it into their waistband, leaving it to hang in front, rather like drapery over a window. The inhabitants form wonderfully picturesque groups, but among them the saddest sights are visible, in the form of suffering poultry, and donkeys, and horses ; birds all tied together in the most cruel manner, and roughly carried ; donkeys, and horses like skeletons, and with fearfully sore places on their poor bodies, the result possibly of the bites of vampire bats. In all good stables lights burn all night to protect the horses from these bats, as they suck the blood. Heat that is absolutely overpowering seems even more exhausting from the dreadful flies, and noisy, rough negroes.

I was fortunate in being at Government House for a race meeting, which was both pretty and pleasant. There is such a lovely view of the mountains from the stand, that, fond as I am of seeing horses, I was perpetually looking from them to the wonderful tints of blue in the valleys, and of pink and gold on the higher points, as the evening lights came over the sky. Then all became a perfect glory of gold and crimson, and the long rays of blue and pink, like a fan, shot up from the setting sun. Never have I seen anything so splen did as these West Indian sunsets ; so beautiful, they almost make one cry ! It is strange that great pleasure, great pain, and great sorrow should each cause tears. The horses looked to me "weedy" and weak; and no wonder, poor things, for the heat, sitting still in the shade, was fearful, and to race in the sun must be truly awful.