A Modern Pilgrim in Jerusalem. With ... illustrations

Preface

. The few sketches here offered represent the chief visits paid in and round the Holy City during the "Ten Days' Tour to Jerusalem and the Jordan." This tour was made by the writer and a friend in the Spring of 1893. Necessarily many places of interest are not touched upon, but only some of the most noteworthy for an ordinary pilgrim. I am indebted to my friend, Rev. Brent Neville, for several of the pictures which were taken on the tour, and also to Mr. Reynolds, for the view from Howard's Hotel. The chapters on " A First Sight of Palestine," "Bethlehem" and "Jericho" appeared originally in The Family Churchman. The chapter entitled " Ascension Day on Olivet," was written for Church Bells. I have to thank the editors of these papers for their courtesy in allowing me to reprint the articles.

J. ROOKER. CONTENTS. CHAP. PAGE I. INTRODUCTORY ... ... ... ... i II. FIRST SIGHT OF PALESTINE ... ... n III. GOING UP TO JERUSALEM... ... ... 18 IV. ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM ... ... 27 V. A VISIT TO BETHANY ... ... ... 37 VI. THE TEMPLE COURTS ... ... ... 47 VII. A VISIT TO BETHLEHEM ... ... ... 59 VIII. GETHSEMANE ... ... ... ... ... 68 IX. GOOD FRIDAY IN JERUSALEM ... ... 79 X. GOING DOWN TO JERICHO ... ... 89 XI. THE DEAD SEA AND THE JORDAN ... 97 XII. ASCENSION DAY ON OLIVET ... ... 108 XIII. FAREWELL ... ... ... ... ... LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. JERUSALEM FROM HOWARD'S HOTEL. ATAL, OR PORTER, OF JERUSALEM. DAVID'S WELL AT BETHLEHEM GATE THE DAMASCUS GATE. VIEW FROM THE SKULL HILL ACROSS THE CITY TO OLIVET. OUR PARTY BY THE BROOK CHERITH " They went forth to go into the land of Canaan : and into the land of canaan they came." A MODERN PILGRIM IN JERUSALEM.

Chapter I

Introductory. |ET thee out of thine own country, and from thy father's house .... unto the land that I will show thee." Such was the message in which the Divine Call came to Abraham to visit Palestine. I had my call. It was not by a vision, but through the voice of a friend. I never doubted though that the call came from God. In the January of 1893 — it was the eleventh day of the month — I was sitting with a friend, and discussing the weather. It was a cold day. Snow was lying on the ground, and the clouds seemed to promise another carpet of the same texture before long. Now snow is very pretty in a picture, but I dislike it in real life. Just then I had good reason for my dislike. A wearying illness had driven me from my beautiful parish on the Surrey hills, and I was seeking sun and warmth at a southern A Introductory. watering place, where (the guide books say) the sun always shines, and the thermometer keeps a respectable level.

The mercury was not behaving properly, in spite of the guide books, and the sun was sulky and would not show himself. Consequently I was in a bad temper. I felt I had been deceived. Still, in this pleasant drawing-room, full of flowers that seemed to laugh at winter, and with a cheery fire before which the cold fled, it was possible to forget the snow outside. Moreover, the warm welcome and friendly talk sent bad temper to the right about at once. " What you want," said my friend, "is a trip to the East. Visit the land of the sun. I wonder you don't go there." "You would cease to wonder," was my answer, "if you had five pairs of shoes to provide for, though they are quite small. But small shoes require constant attention." " Do you mean that ? " said the friendly voice. " Certainly." " Do you mean that expense alone keeps you from going to Egypt or Palestine ?

" I did mean it. " Then," said my friend, " it shall keep you no longer. Go to the East. I will give you the trip." Now I put it to a candid reader whether that was not a call to go. I had no more idea of such an offer when I entered that drawing-room than you have, as you read Introductory. 3 this page, of going to visit Saturn to examine his rings. Suddenly the astounding proposition was made to me that I should go to the East and realize one of the dreams of life. To hesitate seemed to refuse a divine calf. I resolved to go. I don't know what I said, but I know what I did, — I went to the East. Some of my experiences I put down here. The visit was " a crowded hour of glorious life." I wish to try and impart some of my happiness to you. There are so many books on Palestine that one needs to offer an apology for adding another. tBut most of the books seem to me either guide books, or diaries, or else learned works on the history of the land.

Scientific research is also largely represented. What I wish to attempt is the account of an ordinary tour by an ordinary traveller. I have attempted also to put down some of the thoughts that came across me as I trod " those holy fields, Over whose acres walked those blessed Feet, Which (eighteen) hundred years ago Were nailed for our advantage to the bitter Cross." I have tried to conjure up some of the scenes which took place round about Jerusalem, and to make them as vivid to my readers as they became to me. I have selected only a few of such spots, for otherwise my book would have grown into a pretentious volume. Such as it is I offer it to you, my reader, beseeching you to Introductory. remember that it is only the record of " an ordinary tour by a very ordinary traveller." I may as well take the advantage, that an introduction gives, of answering two questions often put to me since my return.

The most common question is, " Were you disap pointed ? " Another question is, " If you were in ill health how did you manage to travel so far ? " In answer to the first question I can truly say I was not disappointed. I was surprised if you like, but surprise is not necessarily, disappointment. Eastern life is utterly different to Western. There is a considerable gap between the two — more than mere mileage represents. When you find yourself in the East you have a good deal to see you have never seen before, and much to learn. Surprise is therefore natural. Of the advantage to a clergyman from a visit to Jerusalem I have no doubt. Every minister ought to go. A visit to the East is worth a hundred com mentaries. " I'll tell you what ought to be done," said a lecturer on Palestine a little while ago.

" Every congregation in the United Kingdom should send their minister once in his life for a good tour through Palestine. It would pay them well." I heartily agree with this gentleman, and venture to commend his proposal to the thoughtful consideration of all those Churches and Chapels in Great Britain which Introductory. 5 have a pastor who, as yet, has not visited the East. Personally, that visit was to me one of the dividing lines in life. An American gentleman up the Nile solemnly assured me that a visit to Jerusalem would shake my faith in Christianity. I try to think he was a man of humour, but I am afraid he meant what he said. Apparently he had little faith to lose. Imagine a visit to the field of Waterloo shaking your belief in the reality of the battle ! Does it follow of necessity that when you have a wrong impression corrected about a person or a place that the person or place cease to exist ?

If the East is so different to what you expected must your Bible be a forgery ? The fact is — as Mr. James Neil, a prince of writers on Palestine, forcibly puts it — the Bible is an Eastern book written by Easterns, about Eastern people, largely in an Eastern tongue, and coloured throughout by the habits and customs of the East. Understand the East and you will understand your Bible the better. Half the cheap objections against the Bible, common among the working-classes, spring out of an ignorance of Eastern life. The wonderful and intimate correspondence between Eastern life depicted in the Bible and Eastern life as it always has been, is one of the strongest proofs for the authenticity of the Sacred Books. The message of the Bible is for all. The Divine voice speaks to every heart in a tongue each heart can understand.

Introductory. But our Lord chose to come among men as an Eastern, and therefore a knowledge of the East surely helps us to (I do not say love Him more) but understand Him more. That is a great matter. My advice is to visit Jerusalem if you get the chance, and though you may be surprised at many things, yet you need not be disappointed. Certainly you will be instructed. As to the other question, I must honestly say I was astonished at the ease with which the tour was made. So many take the trip in these days that travellers' comforts are multiplied. There was no "roughing it" from start to finish. Moreover, with agents like Mr. Cook, or Mr. Gaze, who will take charge of you wherever you go, there need be no anxiety of any kind. You can give yourself over to one or other of these firms as you leave London, and they will pass you on from country to country, from pier to steamer, from steamer to rail, till your feet stand within the gates of Jerusalem.

As to food, it seemed to me you could get any thing you wanted. You are not very strong, perhaps, and cannot eat meat ? Well, never mind, you can get pigeon, or chicken, or turkey. I lived on such myself. You do not care for wine, and yet you are a little afraid of water ? Appollinaris water, or soda water, may always be had. If you are obliged to be more particular than this you can get beef tea or chicken broth, milk Introductory. 7 puddings or rice, rusks or toast, good tea or cocoa. An invalid can manage on these surely, and will probably find that the tour will strengthen a weak digestion to take the ordinary food of other travellers. If a person is well and strong there is a varied choice. Even Bass' pale ale can be obtained in Jerusalem. If you can get that you can get anything, I think.

" Ah, my young friend," said a clergyman to me the other day (he was about 60 years of age), "it is all very well for people under 40 to go to Jerusalem, but when you get to my time of life it is too late." "Sir," I replied, "at the table in Howard's Hotel at Jerusalem there sat next to me an English gentleman aged 80. He had been up the Nile, and come on to Jerusalem afterwards. He enjoyed himself thoroughly, and returned to England none the worse for his trip. "Opposite me sat an American lady, aged 81. She had come from the West to interview the East, and she did it thoroughly. Everything that was to be seen she saw, and everything that was told her she believed. Her powers of body and mind were matters of wonder to all in the hotel. " I may also say that the liveliest member of our party was an English gentleman of 70 !

Talk of 60 being too old for Jerusalem. After these examples of age that I have given one looks on a man or woman of 60 as a mere chicken." My friend said he would think the matter over. Introductory. A few ordinary precautions are necessary for every one, whether they be 80 or 40, and if people are so foolish as to neglect them they must run the risk of trouble. I suppose most trouble comes from chill. You can avoid chill by clothing in flannel, which is the coolest as well as the warmest material to wear ; by taking care just at sunset to throw on an extra wrap ; and by not allowing yourself to be over-fatigued. t I confess I avoided water for drinking purposes, except when I was in mid-stream on the Nile. At Jerusalem I became a total abstainer — from water. A young lady once laughed unmercifully at me for this precaution, and said she had been everywhere, and never drunk anything but water.

I found out afterwards that two of her family had been caught withtyphoid fever in the East, but whether it was from drinking water I do not venture to say. " It is the easiest thing in the world to give advice," a philosopher remarked one day. He did not add that it is pleasant to do so ; but it is. I suppose the pleasure has led me to add one other piece of advice. A tin of Keating's insect powder is useful. Be careful how you pack it. My friend, being susceptible, had brought a tin, and on unpacking his portmanteau in the Bay of Biscay he found Keating's tin had unpacked itself. We gathered together what we could of the powder, and he found it useful. Fortunately for me I was impervious to all attacks, but a certain night at Jericho was a painful Introductory. 9 time for my friend, even with Keating's powder to guard him.

In order that grateful travellers may bless us, I add a cure for sea-sickness. The passage from Naples to Port Said, or from Brindisi to Alexandria is a very short one, a few days only. It is long enough, however, to make some people hesitate. But try this cure and hesitate no more. When my friend came on board at Tilbury (we went by the " Orient " across the Bay of Biscay and down the Mediterranean) he had a packet of powders. He hated the sea, and his experience of voyages across the Irish channel had been a cruel one. But a voyage down the Mediterranean was advised for him, and it did him a great deal of good. His preventive against sea-sickness was bromide of sodium. For three days before sailing he took one gramme of bromide of sodium in water, three times a day. The first day on board he took three more doses and then stopped.

In the Bay of Biscay, when only seventeen first-class passengers out of forty five sat down to dinner, he was one of the seventeen. He had never been able to take a meal in his life before on board ship. Bromide of sodium for him was a specific against sea-sickness. I scorned his remedy, flattering myself I was a good sailor. It is enough to remark that I had a painful time. One other article we took, which proved of much comfort. I recommended it to my friend before starting Introductory. because an old traveller had strongly advised its pur chase. My friend laughed at me, but when we were unpacking he disclosed one. He had thought better of the old traveller's advice. O blessed comforter in hours of sea-sickness and pain ! I refer to the india-rubber hot water bottle. Enough of introduction.

As for advice on the travellers' outfit, together with words of sound wisdom on travel in general, are they not to be found in Mr. Cook's handbook on Palestine, or in other volumes of the same kind ? I invite you now to start for Palestine.

Chapter II

First Sight of Palestine. " ITALIAM PRIMUS CONCLAMAT ACHATES, ITALIAM LÆTO SOCII CLAMORE SALUTANT. " . (TtT^II S Pat ' pitter, patter ! went the rain. All the . fcK"5J . -.H^l nig^t through as I woke at intervals I heard r __________| that dreary sound on the courtyard outside. I was to sail to-morrow for Jaffa, and I had reached Alexandria, in expectation of a brilliant sun and unclouded skies. Instead of that I found a state of weather one would look for in England ! Splash ! splash ! went the rain on the window. The persistent drip disturbed me. The only comfort I could give myself was that " the rain would calm the sea." The morning broke dull and grey, the rain falling heavily. The hotel entrance was choked with luggage, and a row of carriages stood at the door. Gloom was on our faces though the cheery proprietor assured us all would soon be fair.

Along the streets we met Egyptians soaked to the skin, and in a far worse plight than our selves, for we had at least the cover of the omnibus. But at the harbour gates there was no help for it, out we must get and make the best of our way to the boats. Having shown our passports — or rather I think we were allowed to present our cards — we jumped over various puddles and reached the side of the quay. Various boats were waiting just like enormous tubs, into which we and our portmanteaux were bundled, and then rowed out to the steamer. Our steamer was called the Rahmanieh of the Khedivial line. She was a vessel of about 1,200 tons, and her engines equal to 400 horse power — making about ten knots an hour. The crew were foreigners, the engineers English. I felt more cheerful as I got on deck, for I remembered that when I left this ship, if all went well, I should step on the shores of Palestine.

We were to start about eleven o'clock. It was now ten o'clock. By the time we had settled our traps in a tiny cabin completely filled by three berths, our portmanteaux, and ourselves, we were ready for a sort of lunch. As we sat down to the meal we expected every moment to hear the engine's throb. I determined to get one good meal before we were out at sea. But twelve o'clock came and we were still in the harbour. Then one o'clock, and no sign of moving. The captain sat in the dining saloon and looked fierce. What was the matter ? At last the truth came out, or as much as an Eastern chooses to tell of the truth. The wind was blowing in our teeth, and we could not " cross the bar." For twenty-four hours we lay in the harbour fretting and fuming. It was no good. There was no chance of moving.

" 'Tis an ill wind blows nobody any good." One gentleman got twelve hours more in Alexandria, which he wanted, and I had a quiet night, which I had not expected. The next morning was bright, and about ten o'clock we began to move. We were soon over " the bar," and after having slowed down to let our pilot swing himself off by a rope into a little boat alongside — which he did cleverly enough — we put out for the open sea. I said to my friend as we leaned over the ship's side : " Those waves out there are not pleasant." "Oh! bless you, Sir," said an English voice, "they arn't anything ! " It was one of the engineers come up for a breather. I was not quite so sure of the " white horses." After an hour I retired from a view of the ocean to a view of my cabin, and murmured to myself in the intervals of sea-sickness, " Well, it won't be for long."

My friend, usually a wretched sailor, was as steady as a rock. He had taken some more of the wonderful powders, bomide of sodium, and they kept him straight. About four o'clock the engine's stopped. I wondered at the cause — we were not at Jaffa ? — no, a pipe had burst in the boiler. This was pleasant news ! Suppose we all blew up ! For an hour we lay tossing about in the trough of the sea while the engineers repaired the boiler. It was a great comfort to have English engineers on board, I can tell you. At last the screw began again, and though the noise of the screw is not a joyous sound when your head is splitting yet I hailed its return with secret delight. Others seemed to be upset by the journey, for our boat was not like the splendid steamers of the " Orient " or " Peninsular and Oriental " lines, and we went up and down like a cork.

" How are you, my dear girl," said a voice to one in the next cabin. A groan was the expressive answer. " Try a teaspoonful of brandy," said the voice. " I have found it a great service." " Steward," shouted a hearty voice in the saloon, " What is there to eat ? " " Soup, Sir," cried the Steward, " beef, chicken, and sweets." " I should like some chops and tomatoes," said the voice. It sounded really brutal. Chops and tomato sauce ! The man had no feeling to order such things when some of his fellow-travellers were in such despair. However, he didn't get them. Night came on. There were no lights in the cabins. Fortunately, I found a piece of candle in my bag, and by that we managed to get some degree of comfort. Still things were not pleasant, but, as a Canadian Bishop on board humorously remarked, " Pilgrims to Palestine ought to have a few discomforts."

Dozing and waking — pitching and tossing — tired and weary — at last I wore the night through, and from the port-hole of the cabin I saw the morning breaking. " More than they that watch for the morning ! " How eager that soul must be — how in earnest — which thus looks out to its God in its weary night watches. I felt the force of that cxxxth Psalm more than once in my travels. My companions were up early and on deck. They came down with the news that we should be at Jaffa shortly after ten. It was eight o'clock now. I sat up at that piece of news. Sea-sick or not I must get on deck. " Breakfast, Sir ! " said a steward. " No, thank you, my friend," was my answer, " my breakfast is to be a sight of land ! " At last I got on deck. The wind had gone down, and the sea was quieter. A thin line could be seen on the horizon.

Glasses were brought out, and excited faces peered eagerly in front. Not much to be seen yet, the only thing was to wait in patience. So an hour went by. At last I heard a voice call out, " There they are ! " I started to my feet. " What ? What do you mean ? Where ? " One doesn't always talk grammar at such times. The gentleman turned to me and said, " The mountains of Judæa ! " Yes, there they were, stretching in front of us at a distance of what seemed ten or fifteen miles. The shore could not be distinguished, but the hills of Palestine stood up distinctly, grey and grand, and behind them I knew was — Jerusalem ! I felt unutterable things, and half expected everybody on deck to be waving their hats or shouting. No, they took it very coolly. The most imperturbable of all were the pilgrims.

These poor creatures — steerage passengers — were bound for the Easter Feast. They had no place on the ship but the forward deck, and on that they lived, took their meals, said their prayers, and slept. They lay in groups of six and seven huddled under a big blanket. They were not excited at all. Occasionally a head would appear, take a look round, and retire. I never saw such calmness. " And now we shall be in Jaffa in an hour," I said. The gentleman I addressed had been here before. "How far do you think those hills are from us ? " he asked. " Fifteen miles," I said. " Fifty," he laughed, " and Jaffa is a good three hours even yet." He was right. We did not get to Jaffa till nearly one o'clock. But gradually we came up. The coast grew clear. Then we saw the town built on a hill close to the water's edge.

Then the rocks appeared which make the landing so ticklish a matter. And then at last, a mile out, we cast anchor, and our voyage was over. It was a pretty sight. The long low stretch of yellow sand, the quaint Eastern town rising up the hill, the blue sea, the numerous boats, the colours of the dresses, and the grey rocks between us and it all. There might be worse sights from an artistic point of view than Jaffa. A boat puts off from our steamer to certify we have a clean bill of health. Then a crowd of boats rush out from the shore, the red vests of the boatmen belonging to Mr. Cook being conspicuous. Up they come. They rush on deck. Your baggage is seized and tossed into a boat, you descend the ladder and embark yourself. A few strokes and we are clear of the Rahmanieh. On over the waves towards the rocks, round the corner, and then on the crest of a wave we swing through them, and floating in still water find ourselves alongside a quay.

On to this we leap with a sort of frenzy, for our voyage is over, the sea is behind us, and our feet stand on the shore where Jonah and Peter, and many a name of lesser note and renown have stood. We are standing on the shore of the Holy Land ! 1-:

Chapter III

Going up to Jerusalem. "Our feet shall stand within thy gates, O Jerusalem." I » Tffe^INE hundred and ninety years before our fiRSOSri Christian era, if one had been travelling in I rgyjKJll Palestine, the lord of the country would have been Solomon. In the year 1893, A-D-> tne l°rd of the country was Mr. Cook. At least, that was the con clusion to which I was led by my experiences. He can and will arrange to take you anywhere in Palestine, and with great comfort. Put yourself in his hands, tell his agents what you want, and you need not have an anxiety for the rest of the tour. You can join one of his large parties, or you can make up a small party of your own friends ; but he will arrange all for you — feed you, house you, guide you, protect you, just as long as you like. For the ordinary tourist there is no one like Mr. Cook.

When I saw the red vests of Mr. Cook's boatmen coming over the waves at Jaffa, I felt satisfied, and when the agent stepped on board our steamer and handed me over to the boatmen below, I knew all was right. Going xxp to Jerusalem. 19 Moreover, when we reached the shore, and there was a demand for "baksheesh" from some of the oarsmen, we only replied " Cook," and at once we were left in peace. It was Saturday afternoon, and we hasted, if it were possible, to reach the holy city for Palm Sunday. There fore, we made our way to the " Jerusalem Hotel " (as it is called), a very good hotel by the way, and got hold of Mr. Howard, the proprietor, who is also Cook's agent, and laid our affairs before him. The steamer was late, so the train had gone. We could not travel by rail to Jerusalem that day.

There is one train up each day, and one train down. I was not very sorry to miss the train, though it has been unnecessarily abused. But what then ? Mr. Howard advised our taking a carriage on to Ramleh at once, and, after sleeping at the hotel there, going on early next morning so as to reach Jerusalem on Sunday by mid-day. We agreed. A carriage was sent for. Meanwhile nature came in with imperious demands for food. On board the steamer I had of necessity fasted. The moment my feet were on the shores of Palestine the fast was at an end. Into the hotel we went and ordered tea. It was a delicious meal. Never have I tasted such a meal as that. There was tea equal to Mazzawattee, though people said you couldn't get tea in Judæa, and I took two pounds out for a lady in Jerusalem. Rubbish ! you get anything you want in Judæa.

With the tea there was milk, bread, butter, and honey, all of the best. Literally we were in a land of milk and honey. Our appetites no doubt had something to do with our appreciation. But how can I excuse ourselves for what followed ? Tea was not finished when we ordered dinner, and a good dinner we had. I don't think such a capacity for food was exhibited again on the tour. I explain this behaviour by remarking we were in high spirits at actually being in Palestine, and about to start for Jerusalem. At 4.30 our carriage was ready. It was an old fashioned barouche — but of small make — and drawn by three mules. Our dragoman, or guide, was a handsome young fellow named Michael Cattan. He was to take us to Jerusalem and look after us while we were there. The arrangement was a very simple one.