A Pilgrimage to the Temples and Tombs of Egypt, Nubia and Palestine in 1845-6

Front matter

A PILGRIMAGE TO THE TEMPLES AND TOMBS OF EGYPT, NUBIA, AND PALESTINE, IN 1845-6. VOL. I. . .. de| H-ulL-nanY1 S* "Walton L1O10 graphws S.DE OF THE G-R«EAT ROCK TEMPLE Or IB SAMP 0X1 ley New FWliiiglrm Street A PILGRIMAGE TO THE TEMPLES AND TOMBS or EGYPT, NUBIA, AND PALESTINE, IN 1845-6. BY MRS. ROMER, AUTHOR OF "THE RHONE, THE DARRO, AND THE GUADALQUIVIR," &c. " Tout est tombeau chcz un peuple qui n'est plus," — Chateaubriand. " Nilus heareth strange voices." — Sir Thomas Browne. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LOND O N : RICHAltD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, iSublifiljn* hi #iohian* to fetr Jlbijt-Sty. 1846. LONDON' : Printed by S. & J. Bentlet, Wilson, and Pley, Bangor House, Shoe Lane. A WORD TO THE PUBLIC. " Rien n'appartient a rien, tout appartient a tous, II faut etre ignorant comme un maitre d'ecole, Pour se flatter de dire une seule parole Que personne ici bas n'ait pu dire avant vous."

Alfred de Musset. Since the facilities of steam-navigation have brought the Nile within the scope of everybody's possibility, and rendered Constantinople an easier undertaking than the Giants' CausevA'ay formerly was, so much has been published upon the East, that the subject has been completely exhausted by minds of every calibre, and books of Oriental travel have become a mere drug, i It therefore looks like a AA'ork of supererogation, — a squeezing of the squeezed lemon, — to endeavour to extract a new idea from so worn-out a theme, or attempt to add a word to that which has already been so often and so Avell said. /-But, such is the incorri gibility of human nature, — of female human nature, above all, — that, with the pages of King lake and Warburton staring one in the face, VI A AVORD TO THE PUBLIC. and appearing silently to forbid all — competition was I going to say ? but that were impossible ! — the Biddy Fudge spirit will not be kept under ; and not a woman turns her face, Hadji-like, to- AA'ards the far East that does not fancy she is bound to add her mite to the general fund of knoAvledjre or entertainment, to record some im pression AA-hich may have escaped a mightier mind, or correct some mistake which may have been perpetrated by a more careless one.

And, con sequently, every fair wanderer who trusts herself to the Great Oriental at Southampton, or to the French steamers at Marseilles, for conveyance to the land of the Pharaohs, would as soon think of embarking Avithout her sac de nuit as AA'ithout a certain mysterious-looking little clasped volume, carefully closed Avith a Bramah lock, of which the tiny key is appended to her watch-chain, and whose blank leaves are destined to receiA'e the " concentrated essence " of observations which are at a later period to be diluted into two or three respectable-looking octavo volumes. I speak from experience ; for, although I do not plead guilty to the locked album, and that I protest to having left home under a solemn vow and promise to myself, that nothing but the in evitable duty of writing family letters should in- A AVORD TO THE PUBLIC.

Chapter II

Voyage. — Arrival. — Port of Alexandria. — Landing. — Alexandria. — Fellahs. — Pompey's Pillar. — Cemetery. — Cleopatra's Needles. — Ancient Alexandria. — Field of Battle. — Political Views. — Fortifications — The Viceroy's Palace.— Date Palms. — Soiree.

Chapter III

First Impressions . — Travelling Companions. — Canal Boat. — The Nile. — Pyramids. — Sunset on the Nile. — Arrival at Cairo. — Egyptian Donkeys. — Aspect of Cairo. — Oriental Costume. — Bazaars. — The Citadel. — View of Cairo. — Court of the Memlooks. — Rencontre. — Self-Con trol. — Vice-Regal Escort. ....

Chapter IV

The Memlooks. — Massacre of the Memlooks. — Amyn Bey. — The last Memlook. — Mosque of Sultan Hassan. — Gama Tayloon. — Mosque of Amr. CONTEXTS. PAGE 77 107 131 157 184

Chapter V

Cairo. — Cairo Mission. — Climate. — Plagues of Egypt. — Projected Marriage. — Mohammed Bey Defterdar. — Bridal Palace. — Wedding Processions. — Tombs ofthe Memlook Kings. — El Kaitbey. — The Viceroy's Tomb. — Overland Mail. — Affecting Event. — The Good Samaritan. Railroad to Suez. — Dr. Abbott's Museum. — Egyptian Antiquities. ......

Chapter VI

Departure from Cairo. — The Swift. — Arab Crew. — Arab Music. — Arab Dances. — River Scenery. — A Breeze. — Egyptian Cavalry. — Life on the Nile. — Arab Temper ance. — Arab Misery. — Crocodiles. — A Meeting.

Chapter VII

Kenneh. — Arab Filial Affection. — A Visit. — A Ride. — Nile Birds. — The Ghawazee. — Egyptian Scenery. — Luxor. — Bright Ideas. — Temple of Luxor. — Egyptian Architecture. — An Antiquary Arrival at Esneh. — Temple of Esneh. — Disenchantment. — A Shoal of Croco diles. ......

Chapter VIII

Passing Glimpses. — Preparations. — Es-souan. — Quar ries of Syene. — Desert Cemetery. — The Berbers. — Mixed Population. — Pleasures of Polygamy. — Elephantina. — The First Cataract. — Reis Hassan. — Success. — Mahatta. Slave Boat. — View of Philæ.

Chapter IX

Progress up the River. —Nubian Scenery. — Korosko. •Course of the Nile. — Taxation. — A Battle-royal I brim. CONTENTS. XIII PAGE 204 225 249 263 278

Chapter X

Ghebel Addeh. — Temples of Ibsamboul.— Derr. — A Nubian Palace. — A Nubian Prince. — A Nubian Hareem. High Life in Nubia. . . . . .

Chapter XI

Nubian Ballet. — Ostrich Eggs.— Desert Dromedaries. — Ababde Arabs. — Wady Sebooa. — Dakkeh. — Second Editions of Temples. — Ghirsche Housseyn. — Dandour. — Egyptian Mercury. — The Vendetta. — Rahaba. — Kalabs chi.—The God Malouli. — Bet-oually.— Debod.

Chapter XII

Philæ. — Ruins. — Augustan Era of Egyptian Art. — Temple of Isis. — Portrait of Cleopatra. — Pharaoh's Bed. — An Arrival, — Rencontre. — Descent of the Cataract. — Another Rencontre. — Egyptian Pebbles.

Chapter XIII

Koom Ombos. — Ghebel Silsilis. — Temple of Edfou — View. — El Kob. — Tombs. — Banished Ghawazee. — Sofia. — Tallyho. ......

Chapter XIV

Arab Greetings. — Christmas Cheer. — Tipsy Turkey. — The Vocal Memnon. — Medinet Habou. — ■ Pharaonic Architecture.— Egyptian Mythology. — The Rhamesseium Tombs. — The Assassief.— Relics. — Biban El Moluk.— Belzoni's Tomb.— The Hall of Beauty.— Bruce's Tomb. — The Harpers. — Allegories. — Amulets. CONTENTS. PAGE 303 315 336 356

Chapter XVIII

Nile Voyagers — Invalids. — Puff Anticipatory. — Cro codiles. — Beni Hassan.— Paintings. — Sepulchral Archi tecture. — Bedrechein. — Castles in the Air. — Colossal Statue. — Memphis. — Ibis Mummies. — Pyramids of Sak kara. — Sarcophagus. — Last Day on the Nile.— Our Crew. Mohammed. — Return to Cairo. ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Iacade of the Great Rock Temple of Ibsamboul, Nubia . . .to face the Title. Tombs of the Memlook Sultans, near Cairo (Wood-cut) 91 Dahabieh, or Boat on the Nile . . do. 112 Interior of Great Rock Temple of Ibsamboul 210 Island of Philoe .... (Wood-cut) 251 Colossal Statues on the Plain of Thebes do. 281 Ruins of Thebes — Karnak .... 304 Hypostyle of Karnak . . do. A PILGRIMAGE TO THE TEMPLES AND TOMBS OF EGYPT, &c.

Chapter I. Malta

—VALETTA. CASAL CRENDI. HAGIAR CHEM. PHŒNI- CIAN IDOLS. — MELITA. PREPARATIONS. Malta, Oct. 15, 1845. Safely landed at Valetta ! Let those who suffer physically and morally in the same degree that I do at sea imagine the delightful contrast of finding oneself in the clean, spacious, airy rooms of a Malta Hotel, after being " cabined, cribbed* confined," three mortal days and nights in the berth of a steamer, even although that steamer should be a first class English Mail packet. True that the one AA'hich conveyed us hither from Mar seilles, left nothing to be desired on the score of accommodation, good living, and the kindest and most gentlemanly attentions, on the part of its VOL. I. B MALTA commander, Lieutenant Aplin, of the Royal Navy, (to whom I must ever feel deeply indebted, for the considerate forethought with which he administered to my comfort on board the Ache ron) ; but alas ! such are the absorbing effects of sea-sickness, that nothing is thought of for the time being, but one's own selfish quota of sufferings, and it is only when they are over, that one remembers gratefully how much was done to alleviate them.

We were fortunate in haA-ing a fair wind ; it bleAv what seamen call " half a gale," but to me it appeared that we were driAren on by a couple of hurricanes tacked together; such was the motion of the vessel, that everything moveable in my cabin was dashed to the ground ; and my dressing-case and carpet-bag, the only objects that escaped the general destruction, danced the Polka throughout the whole of the first night, amidst the fragments of cups and glasses, scattered about by the first tremendous lurch of the steamer ; and when, at the end of thirty-six hours, I ventured to creep out of my berth, my sides were black and blue from the effects of the rude rocking Avhich had accompanied that stormy lullaby. Very happy Ave all were to find ourselves in the harbour of Malta, at ten o'clock on Tuesday night ; and as VALETTA. we stepped ashore at Valetta, I thought that the city of the warrior-monks had never looked so beautiful as in the silence and repose of that calm moonlight hour.

And beautiful it is, whether in the brightness of the noonday sun, when its streets are filled Avith a population rendered motley by the mix ture of English uniforms and native costumes, that show there in picturesque contrast, or, in that more subdued light just alluded to, when the oriental aspect of the buildings, half-illumined by the moonbeams, half-buried in shadovAr, assume tbe characteristics of an exquisite theatrical deco ration, and scarcely a living creature is to be seen in the high-ways or bye-Avays to break the deep stillness of the scene. One might then almost fancy oneself transported two centuries back to the palmy days of the Knights of St. John, and expect to be challenged from the bastions by some steel-clad soldier of the Cross, instead of the Highland sentinels pacing backwards and for wards there.

But, indeed, whether in sunshine or moonlight, such is the peculiar charm of Valetta, that I do not think it yields in beauty, to the fairest cities of Italy or Spain. When I was here three years ago, the heats of July precluded my visiting any of the remarkable b CASAL CRENDI. sites that the island contains ; they are but feAA', and certainly when compared with the monuments possessed by other lands are deficient in artistical merit ; yet not to see them would argue an apathy foreign to my nature. Accordingly one of our first excursions has been to Casal Crendi, a Maltese village seven miles from Valet ta, in the neighbourhood of which, (that is to say about a mile and a half further,) is to be seen at once the greatest antiquity and the greatest no velty contained in the island. Within the last five or six years excavations were made there under the direction of the late governor, Sir Henry Bouverie, which brought to light the re mains of AA'hat is supposed to have formed part of either a Phœnician Temple, or a place of sepulture, — probably both, since the human bones and the rude stone altars discovered in some of the chambers would infer that it had been devoted to either purpose.

No inscription has been found to give any data of these remains, but their Druidical form, (or, what is technically termed, Cyclopean architecture,) argues the remotest an tiquity. The chambers are oblong in form, and the larger ones rounded at one end ; the walls and partitions composed of huge blocks of stone placed upright on the ground ; the windows and CAS.4L CRENDI. 5 doors are of the rudest construction, and there are no attempts at either architectural or sculptu ral ornament, beyond the surface of the stone of wliich the altars and seats are composed being irregularly punctured with small holes. The spot where these remains were discovered has for time immemorial, been indiscriminately called by the Maltese, Hagiar Chem, (the stones of Chem,) and Gebel Keem, or, " the mountain of worship."

The latter denomination proves the existence of some traditionary record of their original purpose, and corresponds with the opinion pronounced by most of the scientific men who have visited the place, namely, that Hagiar Chem AA*as the religious temple of some Phœnician city, which once existed in the immediate neighbourhood, and the vestiges of which may hereafter be brought to light as this curious remnant of bygone ages has been. As no inscription or hieroglyphic was discover ed in this rude temple, it may be inferred that its construction dates to a period prior to the use of letters ; and yet one is bewildered to account for the raising and superposing of such enormous blocks of stone, without the aid of such mechani cal powers as would argue an advanced stage of civilization. There is, however, no attempt at HAGIAR CHEM. art or symmetry, or even regularity, at Hagiar Chem ; no arch, no column ; the apertures evidently meant for doors and windows are shape less orifices, formed only of two large, upright monoliths, surmounted by a third, laid across them.

I fear that you will not be able to make anything out of this confused description; but, like most persons who have just visited something curious, and whose minds are still full of what they have seen, I am apt to fancy that I can paint in words, and through those vehicles image forth my own impressions to others ; whereas, I ought to remember that I have never yet received any correct idea either of picture, prospect, or monu ment, from mere description, even though that description were couched in language the most vivid and elaborate, — that in such eases one stroke of the pencil is AA-orth a thousand of the pen, — one glance of the eye worth all the pencils in the world, — and, consequently, all written de scriptions worth little more than so much waste paper. Yet, if we wanderers did not attempt description, we should be accused either of seeinono- o thing, or of travelling without profit to ourselves and others ; therefore, in order to convince you that I am not to be classed among those who PHŒNICIAN IDOLS. 7 think only of taking their ease in their inn, I shall continue " to bestow my tediousness upon you " without compunction, whenever an opportunity occurs.

In the little museum of the government-library here, I saw eight images, which were discovered in the temple at Hagiar Chem, and are supposed to be either Phœnician idols, or images of the dead who were interred there. They are small, of the most uncouth workmanship, the most grotesque forms, and are all headless. Two of them are com posed of terra cotta ; the remainder are of Malta stone. Although without heads, their incomplete state does not arise from any mutilation, as the construction of the necks, and sundry holes bored in them, show that heads could be affixed to them with strings, or rivets, at will ; and it may from thence be presumed, that AA'henever the race to whom they belonged were either expelled, or migrated from their settlement, they carried Avith them the heads of their idols.

But who were they, the dAvellers of that rude spot? A human skull discovered in the same place with the statues, and deposited also in the government-library, is, by its peculiar formation, evidently of the Ethiopian race, which would mi litate against the received opinion, that the Phœ- PHŒNICIAN IDOLS. nicians were the first people who colonized the island of Malta. Curiosity has, in this instance, nothing to grapple with but conjecture ; the skull may be that of a slave, or of a sacrificed captiA'e, and not of a colonist ; but, if one so igno rant as myself might venture a surmise, where so many learned persons have refrained from offering an opinion, I should place the date of these ruins to a far earlier period even than Phœnician colonization, which, Avherever it transported itself, left indications of a more adA'anced progress in the arts than is here discoverable.

For instance, if Ave admit for a moment that side of the vexata quœstio Avhich attributes those mysterious monu ments, the Round Towers of Ireland, to Phœnician origin, it is impossible to reconcile the idea that the shapeless temple of Hagiar Chem could haATe been coeval with, or constructed by, a people who were the artificers of those beautiful and symme trical monuments. In short, its A'ery uncouth ness authorizes the inference that it was the first attempt of an untaught people in architectural or monumental art. Are you tired of my disquisition ? if you are not, I am ! I find that I haA-e been SAvimmino out of my depth, Avithout being furnished with the cork -jacket of science to keep me afloat ; and MELITA. 9 if I do not make the best of my Avay back to the point from whence I started I must surely sink.

Nevertheless, I must own to you that I have already plunged headlong into another controversy, which is not only a subject of deep and sacred interest to the Maltese, but one in which their national amour propre appears to be closely involved. I allude to the locality of St. Paul's shipwreck, and to how far argument preponde rates in favour of the Melita of the Adriatic Sea over the Melita of the Mediterranean. The Mal tese will listen to no argument that does not point out their own island as the theatre of that event in tbe great Apostle's life ; however, there is a considerable majority against them among more disinterested disputants ; and I confess that when I was last here I inclined to the Adriatic side of the question, my opinion being founded upon St. Paul's own words (Acts, chap, xxvii, v. 27).

But, on my recent passage from Marseilles to Malta I had an opportunity of overhearing the question most ably and dispassionately discussed by an English gentleman employed under govern ment in the island ; and there appeared to be so much reason and probability in his vieAv of the question, that my own preconceived notions have been greatly staggered by them. MELITA. You have only to look over the map to judge of Iioav far Mr. S.'s argument (which I herewith give you) deserves consideration. When St. Paul departed from the island where he had been ship- AA'recked, (Acts, chap, xxviii. v. 11 — 13,) he embarked in a vessel that had wintered at that island on its way from Alexandria to Puteoli (Naples). Now for that vessel to have gone to the Melita of the Adriatic, which lies off the Dalmatian coast, would have been immensely out of the way; whereas Malta is exactly in the direct course between Alexandria and Puteoli.

Moreover, Malta was a place of trade, and in all probability the vessel discharged there a cargo of wheat from Egypt, and took in a cargo of cotton, for the groAvth of which Malta was then noted. Besides, St. Paul mentions that in their progress they touched at Syracuse, which would have been again out of the way for a vessel voyaging from the Adriatic Melita to Puteoli. For assuming- © that he sailed from the Adriatic Melita, it Avould have been unnecessarily dipping down to the soutliAvard to touch at Syracuse, and from thence he must have again steered northward in order to regain the course by Reggio and the Straits of Messina ; Avhereas Syracuse lies in the direct and unavoidable course from Malta to those Straits, PREPARATIONS. 11 through which, under either supposition, St. Paul decidedly passed.

I think I have given you enough and too much of description for one day, and I shall therefore release you for the present, and resume when the day of my departure from Malta is decided upon. October 24th. I have been perforce drawn away from the con templation of Cyclopean remains and Scriptural controversies, to plunge into the vulgar details of the commissariat preparations which our approaching voyage to Egypt necessitates, and have literally been over head and ears in portable soup, bottled porter, soda water, potted meats, maccaroni, rice, hams, tongues, pickles, fish-sauces, sugar, tea, wine, and I know not what else besides, with which we must provide ourselves previous to com mencing the ascent of the Nile, where, it would appear that fertile as that country is, provisions, and all sorts of Christian comforts are scarce.

We are also obliged to take with us from hence, beds, bedding, and household linen ; in short, our preparations have already swelled to such formid able proportions that we look as though vA'e were bound for India. And yet much more remains to be procured at Alexandria and Cairo in the PREPARATIONS. shape of breakfast and dinner canteens, kitchen utensils, &c. &c. &c. But the first and most in dispensable acquisition for Egyptian travellers is a •rood Dragoman, and we have secured the services © O * of one who has been highly recommended to us, and bears excellent testimonials from the persons he has already attended in that capacity. He is an Egyptian Turk, his name is Mohammed Abdul Atti, preceded by the title of Hadji (for he has performed the pilgrimage to Mecca, and no Mos lem who has done so would forfeit the proud pre rogative contained in those five letters), and he appears to be a most respectable, intelligent young man, and has already shoAvn himself of great use by the judicious directions he has given us con cerning the quantity and quality of stores that we are to take to the African shores.

So much for the creature-comforts which, alas ! earth-born as we are, form so preponderating a consideration in all the arrangements into AA-hich mankind enter for their amusement or gratifica tion. But other preparations of a higher nature have been required in the shape of books and maps relating to the regions I am about to visit ; and in these I have derived the most valuable assistance from Mr. Muir of the library here, Avhose hints have been of the greatest possible use PREPARATIONS. 13 to me in many ways. Not only has his judgment been serviceable in pointing out "what I ought to elect, and what to reject ; but he has, in the most disinterested manner, lent me books which he might naturally have tempted me to purchase, and has indeed placed his whole library at my dispo sition ever since I have been here.

Among other kindnesses, Mr. Muir has lent me an English side-saddle to take with me, an object which, in the ignorance of what would be required in such a journey, I neglected providing myself with on leaving home ; indeed, his zeal and obliging at tentions have been unceasing, and can never be sufficiently commended by me ; and I should be ungrateful indeed did I not eagerly testify to my grateful sense of them, and of the obligations they have laid me under to him. We have secured our passage in the French steamer L'Alexandre, w'hich will arrive here from Marseilles, on the 27th, and is to leave on the evening of the same day for Alexandria ; and these preliminaries having been all settled, we shall subside into a state of idle repose during the remainder of our stay here. Farewell then, until I reach the shores of Egypt ! VOYAGE.

Chapter II. Voyage

— ARRIVAL. PORT OF ALEXANDRIA. LANDING. ALEX- ANDRIA. FELLAHS POMPEY'S PILLAR. CEMETERY. CLEO PATRA'S NEEDLES. ANCIENT ALEXANDRIA.— FIELD OF BATTLE. — POLITICAL VIEWS. — FORTIFICATIONS. — THE VICEROY'S PA- LACE. DATE PALMS. SOIREE. Alexandria, Nov. 1, 1845. We embarked in L'Alexandre French sioamer at Valetta in the evening of the 27th of October, and at midnight left the port. A magnificent vessel fitted up with an elegance and comfort for merly unknoAA'n in such craft, very few passengers, and those feAv most agreeable ones, a transparent atmosphere, and a placid sea, gave us a fair promise of a prosperous and pleasant voyage, which was fully realized, for not one cross event occur red, not one dark cloud arose to mar the general harmony. For the first two days we did not be hold a sail, or the appearance of any living thing upon the wide Avaters except ourseh'es; but on the third morning some visitors reached us in the shape of two little birds, land-ones, driven from VOYAGE. the African coast, which, after fluttering coquet tishly about the rigging for a short time, perched upon the lower ropes, and at last grew so familiar as to descend to the deck, and hop about in search of flies.

One of the officers of the Alexandre, carried away by his love of sport, ran for his gun, and would thoughtlessly have repaid the confidence placed in man by these harmless little wan derers, by depriving them of life ; but a word from us checked the destructive impulse, and the little birds were suffered to claim our hospitality un harmed, while the rifle and its master found better sport in a shoal of porpoises which came within gunshot a short time afterwards. At noon, on the 31st, symptoms of nearing the land became manifest in the number of ships of all sizes and classes which approached us from the direction of Alexandria. Mohammed, perched aloft in the rigging, which he had ascended with the agility of a cat, was the first to salute the African shores ; but so low and flat is the coast of Egypt that we, on the deck, could not distinguish Alexandria itself until Ave were quite near to the entrance of the harbour.

The navigation there being difficult and dangerous, on account of the sunken rocks which abound, an Arab pilot came on board, a fine looking old Moslem, Avhose dark ARRIVAL. countenance, crimson turban, green vest, full white drawers, bronze-coloured legs and arms, and free, graceful movements, contrasted strikingly with the European aspect and habiliments of the Commandant of the Alexandre as they stood side by side on the bridge connecting the two paddle boxes ; the Arab directing the movements of the steamer and carrying on a shouting conversation with the wild looking seamen in his own little boat, AA'hich had been taken in tow by us, and with its occupants was literally drenched by the spray from our paddles ; the Frenchman, with telescope in hand, deferentially listening to him. And now every eye was strained to catch a first distinct glimpse of the .antique " Land of Egypt " — the land of mystery and monuments — the cradle of science and the arts — the fruitful source from whence learning and refinement flowed into other countries to redeem them from the darkness and barbarism into which she herself has fallen after having been the first among the nations of the earth ! and we all asked each other what we felt at the sight ; and, strange to say, the answer from each individual Avas almost the same, and a lack of enthusiasm Avas generally and unblushingly owned to prevail !

Still, the scene was striking as avc entered the port ; and the active and war- PORT OF ALEXANDRIA. like aspect of tbe fine harbour full of shipping, and amongst them many men-of-war, from whose sterns floated the Egyptian flag, with its white crescent and star upon a blood-red ground, impressed us with a favourable impression of the Pasha's navy. To the right stretches a long sandy ridge, bristling AA'ith windmills innumerable, betokening plenty, and therefore beautiful in the eyes of the utili tarian, although unsightly in those of the artist. To the left appears the light-house of Alexandria, occupying the site of the famous Pharos which once was numbered amongst the Avonders of the world. In the centre, overlooking the port and close to the water's edge, is the palace of Mo hammed Ali, a spacious, solidlooking white building; and far behind, towering in solitary grandeur above all the surrounding structures, is Pompey's Pillar, springing from an eminence which once formed the centre of ancient Alex andria, and appearing to the stranger's eye as a landmark of the past — all that remains to attest the bye-gone glories of the fallen city he is about to enter.

Thus far, as you will perceive, nothing Oriental, nothing African, in the physiognomy of the place ; neither Mosque nor Minaret to be descried; and as Ave cast anchor, at five o'clock, immediately opposite the vol. I. c LANDING. Viceroy's palace, a band of music on board of the admiral's ship,* a fine seventy-four, struck up the " Parisienne " most horribly out of tune- This was the first practical proof we received of the supremacy which everything French has attained in this country;— I believe that even had the air been performed with all the precision of a German band, we should have objected to it at that moment, as being out of keeping with the people and the place ; nay, I am not sure that I could have even tolerated " Rule Britan nia" just then, so discordantly did everything European jar with my Egyptian aspirations.

Landing at Alexandria is a most formidable affair. As soon as a steamer appears in sight, troops of camels and asses, with their noisy drivers, hasten down to the landing-place, and before the inexperienced stranger is aware of what is about to happen to him, he beholds his baggage carried off and piled upon one of the kneeling camels by a score of half-naked, one-eyed Fellahs, and finds himself seized in the arms of somebody, and lifted, whether he will or no, upon a donkey, to the ma nifest disappointment of a dozen clamorous ex pectants, who shout forth in English, in a variety of tones : "Want a donkey, sir?" — "Very good * The Egyptian fleet is commanded by Said Pacha, one of the Viceroy's sons. LANDING. 19 donkey, sir, better than a horse." — " Go to Pom pey's Pillar, sir ?" — " Dat donkey go very bad." — "My donkey go faster than steam-boat!!"