South by East. Notes of travel in Southern Europe. ... With illustrations

Preface

. N the following pages I have made no attempt to preserve a special continuity in the treatment of the __i_______________J subjects discussed, or to give a formal description of any of the places mentioned. Such descriptions will be found in guide-books, and in that excellent class of books which has arisen during the last few years, of which Hare's Days in Rome may be taken as a good example. Here I have jotted down ideas and impressions, which presented themselves from time to time while visiting certain well-known places. These chapters are literally what they profess to be, " Notes of Travel," often desultory, but, I trust, seldom inaccurate. Portions of several chapters have appeared from time to time in our school paper, The Marlburian, and the major part of the " Summum Bonum " is from The Cliftonian of 1870.

Nearly the whole of the chapter on Athens was printed in the Dublin University Magazine for July, 1875, and the account of the Tuscan Memorial to Galileo in Nature, for August, 1873. I must express my thanks to Prof. Ehousopoulos for permission to copy the engraving of the heads of Homeric Heroes, from his ETXEIPIAION TH2 EAAHNIKHS APXAIOAOriAS. G. F. EODWELL. Marlborough, May lJith, 1877. CONTENTS. CHAP. PAQE I. — General Impressions of Northern Italy . . .9 II. — Milan ........ 20 III. — Verona, Padua, Venice .... .31 IV. — Bologna, Florence, Pisa . . . . 47 V.— Rome . . . . . . . .70 VI. — The Monastery of Monte Cassino .... 106 VII.— Naples . . . . . . . .137 VIII. — Messina, Taormina, Catania . . . . . 161 IX— Syracuse . . . . . . .170 X. — Palermo and Girgenti ..... 187 XI. — Athens ........ 216 XII.— Cairo . . . . . . .251 Stjtt of $lh$tnthn$.

PAOE Interior of the Cappella Palatina, Palermo — Erected in 1132 (p. 190) ...... Frontisjiiece. Mdan Cathedral . . . . . . . . 20 S. Anastasia, Verona . . . . . . .32 House of the Capulets . . . . . .33 Cathedral of S. Mark, Venice . . .. . . .36 Florence ........ 50 Michael Angelo . . . . . . . .52 Pisa ......... 56 Lake Trasimenus in Roman Times . . . . . .61 Cathedral of Pisa, and the Leaning Tower . . . . 63 Baptistery of Pisa . . . . . . . .64 The Appian Way ....... 70 The Capitol ........ 72 The Forum, Restored . . . . . . .72 Arch of Titus ........ 73 Table of Shew-Bread, &c, on Arch of Titus . . . . 74 The Coliseum . . . . . . '. .74 Columbarium . . . . . . . 76 Hadrian's Tomb, Restored . . . . . .77 Castle of S. Angelo .... . . 78 Piazza and Basilica of S. Peter ... 80 Apollo Belvedere.

Vatican ...... 83 Head of Apollo Belvedere .... .84 Laocoon Group. Vatican .... 85 Zeus of Otricoli . . . . . . . .86 Sleeping Ariadne. Vatican ... . 87 Barberini Juno. Vatican .... .88 List of Illustrations. 7 PAGE Melpomene. Vatican ....... 89 Head of Eros. Vatican . . . . . . .90 Bust of Cronos. Vatican . . . . . .105 The Well, Monte Cassino . . . . . . .110 Entrance to the Church, Monte Cassino . . . . .111 Monte Cassino . . . . . . . .113 Study of Monks' Heads . . . . . . .126 View of the Monastery from the Garden . . . . .128 Naples ......... 137 The Catacombs of Naples . . . . . . .141 Demeter Enthroned. Painting from Pompeii. Naples . . .142 Persephone Enthroned. Painting from Pompeii. Naples . . .143 Farnese Bull. Naples . . . . . . .144 Farnese Hercules. Naples . . . . . .145 Head of Juno.

Naples . . . . . . .146 Pallas Athene. Naples . . . . . . .147 Resting Hermes. Naples . . . . . .148 Terra Cotta Bowl, Bronze Lamps and Stands, found at Pompeii . .149 A Temple at Pompeii . . . . . . .150 House of Pansa, Pompeii . . . . . . .150 The Solfatara . . . . . . . .153 Baiæ . . . . . . . . .157 Cameo of Athenion. Naples Museum . . . . .160 Entrance to the Harbour of Messina . . . . . .161 The Castle of Scilla ....... 162 Messina ......... 162 The Cathedral of Messina ... . . . .164 Taormina . . . . . . • • .165 Ruined Theatre at Taormina . . . . . .166 Calabrian Coast, as seen from Messina . . . . .166 Catania . . . . ■ • • • .168 Greek Theatre at Syracuse . . . • . . .172 Syracuse and its Environs . . . • • .174 Archimedes . . . . . • • • .176 Tomb of Archimedes . . . • • • .177 Charnel-house of the Monastery of the Cappuccini, Syracuse . .182 Papyrus . . . ... • • • • 184 The Island of Capri . . . . . - ■ .187 List of Illustrations. 8 PAGE The Harbour of Palermo, and Monte PeUegrino . . .188 King Roger of Sicily receiving his Crown from the Hands of Christ . 190 Interior of the Cathedral of Monreale . . . . .190 CampanUe of the Church of La Martorana . . . . 191 Cloisters of the Monastery of Monreale . . . . .192 Bronze Ram of Syracuse . . . . , .195 Porta Nuova, Palermo . . . . , _ .196 Grotto of S. Rosalia . . . . . . .198 Temple of Concordia, Girgenti ... . 204 Interior of the Temple of Concordia .... 205 Ancient Distaff stid used in some parts of Sicdy .... 215 The Heroes of Homer . . . . . _ 216 Salamis ••-.... . 228 The Academic Grove, Restored ..... 229 Temple of Zeus Olympius . . . . . .231 Dionusos and Lion.

From the Monument of Lysicrates . 232 Theseus. From the Pediment of the Parthenon . . . 232 The Acropolis, Athens ...... 233 The Acropolis, Restored .... 234 Parthenon and Erechtheum . 235 Erechtheum, Restored .... 236 Caryatide of the Erechtheum .... 236 Arch of Hadrian .... 238 Greek Vases ..... oig The Dodwell Vase preserved in Munich. An Example of early Greek Vase-painting .... 247 Rondanini Medusa. Munich . . , 250 Pompey's Pillar, Alexandria ..... 252 Palm Trees .... 254- Street in Cairo .... okk Eastern Asses .... okc Water-Carriers of the East .... 257 Mosque of the Sultan Hassan .... 261 Pyramids Qf Ghizeh ..... 262 The Sphynx ..... ocq Tombs of the Mamelukes .... 267 Obelisk at Heliopolis ..... ocq Sakieh ...... SOUTH BY EAST.