Ancient Streets and Homesteads of England ... Introduction by ... J. S. Howson ... With ... illustrations, etc

Introduction

BY THE VERY REV. J. S. HOWSON. D.D DEAN OF CHES WITH ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY ILLUSTRATIONS FROM DRAWINGS BY THE AUTHOR ENGRAVED BY J. D. COOPER 3L o n D o n MACMILLAN AND CO .877

Preface

. IT cannot with truth be said that monumental history is treated in our day with scanty regard. Never, perhaps, were such permanent and forcible memorials of the past as the Arch of Titus in Rome, the Pont du Gard in the south of France, and the Porta Nigra of Treves, visited and gazed upon with warmer interest or a deeper sense of their value. We all feel the power that is exerted over us by the ruins of great Castles and great Abbeys. And in another way is this strong feeling of our times very widely manifested. I refer to the restoration of Cathedrals and Churches — not only in our own country now for many years — but, more recently, in France. This restorative work may not always have been conducted with faultless taste or perfect judgment, but (to say nothing of religious motives) it testifies to a high appreciation of the importance of history written in stone. There is, however, what may be termed a minor monumental history, which has not by any means VI

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. always received its due attention. Our country is full of historic scenes, where the past is visibly re corded, and where, a few years ago, it was more visibly recorded than at present. Old states of society, old modes of living, obsolete habits of the people, are commemorated in many a small building which attracts little notice from the ordinary passer by. The lives of eminent persons, public events of high significance, have left their mark in villages, and market towns, and wayside places, where these recollections ought to be cherished, and where, if possible, the hand of the destroyer ought to be arrested. It should be added that nearly all such scenes and such fragments are pleasing in their aspect and worthy of the artist's pencil as well as of the historian's pen. Under the influence of mixed feelings, made up partly of delight in what remains of this kind, partly of sorrowful regret for what is lost, I cannot hesitate to recommend these drawings by Mr. Rimmer, which he has illustrated by a running commentary.

I do not commit myself to all his conclusions, which embrace a great multiplicity of subjects connected with very various parts of our country. The plan of the book is, of necessity, somewhat de sultory ; but I think there is some advantage,

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. VII as certainly there is no fatigue, in rambling with him irregularly from county to county, through towns and hamlets, and using his eyes as we travel. We cannot all literally see these places ourselves ; and if we were to see them, we might easily, through the want of some guidance, fail to observe their true character and expressive meaning. It should be remembered, too, that large numbers of such historic and picturesque buildings as Mr. Rimmer here delineates have been destroyed, or are in danger now of destruction. It is something if drawings preserve for us in one sense what in another sense (and a very melancholy one) is irre parably lost. Such views, too, and such pages as these, may help us to set a higher value on that which survives. On the whole, it seems to me evident that this book is a very useful contribution to what I have termed minor monumental history.

I will exemplify what I mean, and what I under stand Mr. Rimmer to mean, by one or two inde pendent illustrations, that suggest themselves to my memory ; and if, in some degree, I appear to differ from him as to the resources of this kind which are afforded by different parts of the country, this only shows that, with all his care and diligence, he has not exhausted his subject.

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. Two illustrations shall be taken from the northern counties : and the first shall be the town of Kendal, which our author dismisses as containing hardly any architectural reminiscences of the past. To this I somewhat demur. Kendal, indeed, has no ancient houses, but its ground-arrangement is very singular ; and this must be very ancient. It consists almost entirely of one broad winding street a mile in length, from which narrow lanes, which are not properly streets, open to the right and left, each being entered by a very small passage. Such narrow passages could very easily have been defended, in case of forays from the Scottish border; and it might be conjectured that they were planned with this danger in view. This question, indeed, must be dismissed as a puzzle nearly as great as that which is connected with the origin of the Chester Rows.

The point of historical interest, for the sake of which Kendal is here brought forward, is this, — that through this broad winding street, where the ground rises and falls very boldly, and where even now the houses are so varied in character that on days of light and shade they supply many good subjects for pictures, the troops of Charles Edward marched or straggled in 1745, both on the way to Derby and on their return.

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. IX d hrough this circumstance, especially if we combine it with stories current in the neighbourhood con. cerning that time, this dull Westmorland street acquires a new and lively interest. A second example is supplied by village after village in that wide-spread country of the dales which lies south-east of Kendal. Through Airedale and Ribblesdale, from Bradford to Lancaster, and northward to some considerable distance, there are a multitude of specimens of a curious kind of doorway, which I do not recollect to have seen elsewhere. These doorways generally consist of two curves, more or less regular, and more or less enriched with ornament, and with the initials of the families of some now forgotten dalesmen : the dates range from about 1630 to 1730: the earlier forms are simpler than those which follow ; and after the later period they seem to cease suddenly.

However this provincialism of rural architecture is to be explained, it is a social and artistic fact worthy of being observed and permanently recorded. Turnings now to the Midland Counties, I will again illustrate the subject by a couple of instances. Mr. Rimmer most accurately notes that the ancient Roman way of Watling Street passes along the north-eastern frontier of Warwickshire : but beyond X

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. this he does not make much use of a county which is by no means poor in historical associations. One place which would have given him excellent materials for description and for drawing, and not far from that part of this county, where, to quote the old rhyme, From Dover to Chestre goth Watlyn-Street, is the village of Polesworth. My attention was especially called to its picturesque and suggestive aspect, because I happened to visit the place just when I was within reach of the opportunity of inspecting some of the manuscripts of that prince of archæologists, Sir William Dugdale. The historian of Warwickshire remarks that "for Antiquitie and venerable esteem," the village of Polesworth " needs not to give Precedence to any in the Countie ; " and indeed there is a charming impression of age and quiet dignity in its remains of old walls, its remains of old trees, its church, and its open common.

Not far off, on an eminence commanding a delightful view, is Pooley Hall, the Lord of which " by Reason of the Floods at some time, especially in Winter, which hindered his Accesse to the Mother Church," obtained a license from Pope Urban IV. to build a chapel within the precincts of his lordship.

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. XI And here, in the garden of this modest hall, is a little chapel of comparatively late architecture, but doubtless built on the site of the old one ; and here, full in view, on the level ground below, with the village beyond, is the river, evidently liable to floods. I give this scene merely as a specimen of the wealth that our English counties contain for the historian who is also an artist. The other county of which I am thinking is Bedfordshire. Of course Mr. Rimmer does not fail to take notice of the town of Bedford, and its neighbouring* village of Elstow, and their still visible associations with John Bunyan ; but there still remain some things to be added to those which he has so well described. I fear it must be admitted that the prison, in which the author of the Pilgrim's Progress spent those days and nights that have enriched the world, was not on the bridge over the Ouse, but in another part of Bedford.

The jailor's door, by a most curious accident, survives, built into the wall of a granary, and with quite enough of character to deserve an engraving on descriptive pages. As regards the village of Elstow, there is abundant material of this kind in the isolated church tower, containing the very bells in the rino-ing of which Bunyan rejoiced and afterwards

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. XII trembled ; in the curious building, undoubtedly con temporary, upon the green where he danced ; and, above all, I must mention what appears till recently to have escaped attention. The "wicket-gate" of the Pilgrims Progress is commonly represented as a garden-gate or a turnpike-gate ; but really the term denotes a small doorway, cut out of a large door ; and concealed behind a tree at the west end of Elstow Church, is just such a small doorway in the broad wooden surface of the great door. Through this lowly opening Bunyan must often have passed when a boy ; and if it were simply drawn and engraved, I believe we should have a correct picture of that which was before his imagina tion when he described the early steps of Christian's pilgrimage. It is natural to both Mr. Rimmer and myself, with such thoughts in our minds, that we should make much of the ancient and striking city where we happen to dwell.

He begins with Chester : and I will end with some words concerning it by a recent American traveller. Those who come for the first time from the United States to Europe frequently hasten to Chester with a feeling of extraordinary interest, partly because it is the nearest cathedral city, partly because it is a walled city. This writer

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. XIII is describing the walls. " Chester has everywhere," he says, " a rugged outer parapet, and a broad hollow flagging, wide enough for two strollers abreast. Thus equipped, it wanders through its adventurous circuit ; now sloping, now bending, now broadening into a terrace, now narrowing into an alley, now swelling into an arch, now dipping into steps, now passing some thorn-screened garden, and now reminding you that it was once a more serious matter than all this, by the occurrence of a rugged ivy-smothered tower. Every few steps as you go you see some little court or alley boring toward it through the close-pressed houses. It is full of that delightful element of the crooked, the accidental, the unforeseen, which to American eyes, accustomed to our eternal straight lines and right angles, is the striking feature of European street scenery.

An American strolling in the Chester streets finds a perfect feast of crookedness — of those random corners, projections, and recesses, odd domestic interspaces charmingly saved or lost, those in numerable architectural surprises and caprices and fantasies, which offer such a delicious holiday to a vision nourished upon brown stone fronts." The pleasure which I feel in having anything to do with a book like this is very much increased by

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. the reflection that American readers are likely to take the warmest interest in the visible reminiscences of history, in which " the country that they recognise as their mother-land still abounds. J. S. H. The Deanery, Chester, October 6, 1876. PARRY'S ENTRY, CHESTER. r.\GE i 106 CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Remains of Street Architecture in England — Chester : Various Theories of the Rows — Reminiscences of Ancient Houses in Chester — Wirral — Congleton — Nantwich — Whittington .

Chapter II

Oswestry — Shrewsbury — Battle of Shrewsbury — Wenlock — County Towns as Centres of Exclusive Society — Italian Architecture — Bridgenorth — Hereford — Ross — Monmouth — Worcester — Gloucester : New Inn — Condition of Roads — Tewkesbury — Cornwall . . -37

Chapter IX

Moore Rental — Isle of Man — Beresford Hope's Remarks — Expression in Architecture — Remarks by Godwin — Contract for building St. Mary's Church, Chester — General Principles Greek Architecture — Conclusion . . _ ,OI Wrexham Tower Frontispiece. PAGE Parry's Entry, Chester xiv At the Cross, Chester i The Rows, Chester To face 4 Chester ......... 5 Scene in a Chester Row 8 Court connecting Watergate and Northgate Rows i i Old Lamb Row, Chester 13 Ancient Front, Chester ...... 14 The Dark Row, Chester 16 Stanley House, Chester 17 Julius Cæsar's Tower, Chester . . . . 19 Bridge Street, Chester 23 Whitefriars, Chester 24 Bidston Village 26 Congleton Inn 28 Nantwich 29 Green Man, Ellesmere, Oswestry . . . . 32 Whittington Village 33 Chester : Interior of old Room .... 36 Oswestry To face 37 Shrewsbury 39 Old Houses 4° Shrewsbury 4* LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE On Battlefield Road, Shrewsbury . . . • 42 Head Quarters of Henry VII. on his road to Bosworth Field . . . . - • • 45 Eccleston .......•■- 47 Lodge to Much Wenlock Abbey .... 50 Market Place, Wenlock ...... 51 Wenlock . 53 Shiffnal, Salop 54 Bridgenorth*. House where Bishop Percy was born 62 Butcher's Row, Hereford ...... 64 Outhouse : Nell Gwynne's Birthplace, Hereford . 66 Market Place, Ross 68 Gate on Monmouth Bridge ..... 69 Market Place, Monmouth . . . . . 70 Friar Street, Worcester 72 Worcester 73 Worcester ......... 74 Close in Worcester . ...... . . . 76 New Inn, Gloucester 78 Gloucester 81 Tewkesbury ......... . . To face 83 Black Bear, Tewkesbury . . , .. . . 84 Tewkesbury . To face 86 Old Market, Penzance . ... . . . 86 Crampton, near Shrewsbury . . .... 90 Goldsmith Street, Exeter . . . . . 9!

Old Houses, Exeter Close ..... 93 Guildhall, Exeter . . . .. .. . . 04 Wells Cathedral, from Bishop's Garden . To face PAGE Glastonbury Tribunal . . .. . . . 101 Sherborne, Dorset .... To face 104 Passage in Exeter Cathedral Close . . . 105 Cardinal Beaufort's Gate and Ancient Brewery, Winchester . . . . . . . . 106 Winchester Gate . . ... . . . 108 Street in Close, Winchester . . . ... no Guildford, Surrey . . . . . . 114 Salisbury: Cathedral Close . . . . . 115 Salisbury Old Gateway, High Street . . . 116 Salisbury To face 116 Old Houses, Salisbury 117 Salisbury, from Bridge . . . . . . 118 Salisbury Market . . . . . . . 119 Canterbury . . . . ... . To face 120 Falstaff Hotel, Canterbury 122 Rochester 126 Old Houses, Rye . . 128 East Grinstead 130 Pinner .......... 132 Street in Canterbury 133 Ancient House near St. Albans ..... . 134 Picturesque Gable, Hertford ..... 135 St. Alban's Clock Tower . .... 136 Aylesbury, Bucks .... . . 139 King's Head Inn, Aylesbury ..... 140 Gable in Ockwells, Berks ... 142 Banbury : Cromwell's Parliament House 144 Old Gables, Banbury .... .146 XX PAGE Old Houses, Oxford *47 Magdalen College, Oxford ....

To face 148 Grove Street, Oxford 149 Merton College Chapel, Oxford . . . . 151 Entrance Gate, Magdalen College. . . . 154 Oriel College, Oxford . . . . . . 155 Norwich Precinct Gate and Ferry. . . To face 158 Abbot's Bridge, Bury St. Edmunds . . . . 159 Brick Gable, Grammar School, Hull . . . 166 Ancient Brickwork, Lincoln's Inn . . . . 169 House where Wilberforce was born . . . 172 Window in Old Farm-house near Salisbury . . 174 Market Place, Peterborough 175 Entrance to Close, Ely 177 Plough Inn, Ely 180 Road leading to Ely Close 181 Ancient Bridge, Huntingdon ..... 185 Old George Inn, Huntingdon 186 Leicester Abbey To face 187 Lady Jane Grey's House, Leicester . . . 188 Gateway at Newgate Street, Leicester . . . 190 Elstow, Bedford ....... 192 Jews' House, Lincoln . . . . . . 198 On the Witham, near Stone Bow . . . . 205 Church Street, Grantham 209 Grantham To face 209 House with Norman Door, Stamford . . . 210 Gables, Stamford . . . . . . . 211 George Hotel, Stamford . . . . . .

PAGE Market Place, Oakham . . . . 215 Window, Gainseorough . . . . . 216 Saracen's Head, Southwell . . . . . 217 Chimney at Southwell . . . . . 222 Southwell, Notts . . . . . . 224 Market Square, Newark . . . . . . 226 Chimneys in Newark. ..... 228 Lord Leicester's Hospital, Warwick . . . 231 Porch with Bow-window under, outside Warwick Gates ......... 233 Oblique Gables in Warwick . . . . 234 Coventry Gateway . . . . . . . 235 Coventry, Warwick . . . ... 236 Street in Coventry ....... 238 Bablake's Hospital, Coventry ..... 239 Iron Gate, Derby ....... 240 Samson Square, York ....... 255 Street in York . . . . . . . . 257 Richmond, Yorkshire 263 Ripon, Yorkshire 267 Wakefield ......... 269 Edward IV.'s Chapel, Wakefield Bridge . . 271 Old Buildings leading to Pontefract, Yorkshire 273 Doorway in Cottage, with Royal Arms, Pontefract 276 Lamp in Entrance to Close, Durham . . . 278 Entrance Gate to Beverley, Yorkshire . . . 279 Market Square, Beverley, Yorkshire . . . 280 Hexham ......... 290 Hexham .........

PAGE Black Gate, Newcastle 292 Durham, from an old Homestead on the Wear To face 294 Durham, from Wear Bridge 297 Kepier Hospital Gateway, Durham .... 298 Road through Cathedral Close, Carlisle . To face 298 Buttress, Carlisle 299 Old Houses, Hexham 300 Castle Square, Lancaster . . . . . 301 Lord Winmaleigh's House in Warrington . . 309 Old Row in Manchester 310 Old Market, Warrington 311 Higham Ferrars, Northants 316 Staircase in Author's Residence, Chester . . AT THE CROSS, CHESTER.

Chapter I

remains of street architecture in England — Chester: various theories of the rows reminiscences of ancient houses in chester wirral congleton nantwich whittington. 1 HERE are not many Abbeys or Cathedrals which have not been fairly delineated, and it is a pleasure to add that in this respect few Parish Churches have been neglected. Indeed, if these possess any interest, they are almost sure to secure B a record of their form, and at least one antiquary to publish their history. Ancient mansions also have been lithographed by Habershon and Richard son, and very excellently by Nash. Happily, also, for this class of buildings, they generally belong to some family who take a pride in them, and may fairly be left to attend to their preservation. It is not for such remains as any of the above that a plea is needed ; they have powerful friends, and perhaps no enemies.

But there is another class of architecture that is fast fading away, and that a class which has brightened many a landscape and figured cheerfully in many a tale. Ruskin, in his Oxford Lectures on Art, has said of the architecture of old streets in towns and cities that " it is passing away like a dream, without any serious attempt having been made to preserve it, or indeed even to delineate it." Old blocks of buildings have yielded to the modern innovator in numberless cases where a little ingenuity and care would have adapted them to their new requirements ; and, as Ruskin has eloquently said, " it is difficult to understand the contempt and envy with which future generations will look upon us who had such things and allowed them to perish." Since commencing these pages, not less than HOMESTEADS OF ENGLAND. 3 three street scenes have been destroyed, which would otherwise now figure among our illustrations.

One of them contained four houses that dated back to the reign of Richard III., and these houses have been destroyed, though in an admirable state of solidity, and replaced by others that, as far even as convenience is concerned, have little advantage, and for every other consideration are not to be named in comparison. The wealth of England, however, in ancient remains of all kinds is still very great, and nothing illustrates this more strikingly than the fact that for all the changes and improvements that go on in ancient cities like Chester, Shrewsbury, or Salis bury, we still find the antique character left, even if several years have elapsed since our last visit. The superior beauty of ancient street architec ture has already arrested the attention of many landowners. Gabled cottages with tall chimneys, in a style superior to that which has been often called, not inappropriately, " Cockney Gothic," are built, and the problem of making small cheap dwell ings picturesque is gradually being solved, a problem that was well understood by our fore fathers.

This will be dwelt on at greater length in the last chapter of the book. ' Perhaps no more suitable starting-point than Chester could be found for our researches. It is tolerably well known to most Englishmen either by description or personal inspection. The distinguishing features of Chester are " The Rows " as they are called. These are long covered arcades of unknown origin and antiquity. In familiar language, they resemble such a space as would be formed by removing the storey over the ground floor of a row of buildings through the entire length of the street, and supporting the upper chambers with columns or piers at irregular distances. They differ entirely from those in Berne, or indeed anywhere else, in their form and purpose, and also from the covered passages outside the city, of which an example is here given.

These, indeed, resemble similar structures at Berne, Totness, and other places. Speaking of them, Colonel Egerton Leigh, one of the members of Parliament for Cheshire, has well remarked in a paper read before the Chester Archæological Society : " I really think it would improve the quaint look of the city if the projection of the second floor, supported on pillars (either of wood, brick, or stone) over the pavement, were, under certain necessary regulations and restrictions, encouraged on the Boughton, Hanbridge, and North- HE ROWS, CHESTER gate approaches to Chester. There are several examples of this style remaining in the suburbs, and they are a curious and characteristic introduc tion to the Rows inside the city." The illustration CHESTER. is taken from the Boughton approach to Chester.

One peculiarity may be noticed : the nearest pier of the arcade is enlarged into a kind of buttress capacious enough to accommodate a barber with his stock in trade ; and this is not the only example in the city, there are similar establishments in Bridge Street, Watergate Street, Northgate Street, and in the piers of the arcades. According to Webb, the Rows were built as a refuge to the citizens during any sudden attack of the Welsh, though the mode of building in the more northerly part of England would seem to have been better adapted for any such emergency. However, let Webb tell his own story : " And because these conflicts continued a long time, it was needful for them to build a space before the doors of their upper buildings, upon which they might stand in safety from the violence of their enemies' horses, and withal defend their houses from spoyl, and stand with advantage to encounter their enemies O when they made incursions."

Pennant, on the contrary, says : " These Rows appear to me to have been the same with the ancient vestibules, and to have been a form of building preserved from the time the city was possessed by the Romans. They were built before the doors, midway between the streets and houses, and were the places where dependents waited for the coming out of their patrons, and under which they might walk away the tedious minutes of expectation. Plautus, in the third act of his Mostella, describes both their station and use : — ' Viden vestibulum ante ædes et ambulacrum ejusmodi.' The shops beneath the Rows were the cryptæ and apothecæ, magazines for the various necessaries of the owners of the houses." Other writers, such as Stukely, confirm the Roman origin of the Rows ; but Lysons, certainly one of the most accomplished and patient antiquaries of England, dissents from the Roman theory.

" Mr. Pennant thinks," he says, " that he discerns in these Rows the form of the ancient vestibules attached to the houses of the Romans who once possessed the city. Many vestiges of their edifices have certainly been discovered in Chester, but there seems to be little resemblance between the Chester Rows and the vestibules of the Romans, whose houses were constructed only of one storey." Hemingway, the historian of Chester, seems to differ very much from Lysons, and refers the Rows to the Roman period. "Nor am I aware," he says, "of any historic data that can disprove an opinion I strongly entertain, that the excavations mentioned, by which our Rows as distinguished from the carriage-road are formed, are the work of Roman hands." The end of a Row in Bridge Street here given will easily illustrate the manner in which these singular pasages are broken, and resumed after SCENE IN A CHESTER ROW. being intersected by a cross street.

Hemingway in another passage says, "It hardly requires a word of argument to show that the pavements in Bridge Street, Watergate Street, and Eastgate Street were originally on a level with the houses standing in the Rows ; for it is utterly impossible to conceive that the present sunken state of the streets, as contrasted with the elevated ground on either side, could be the effect os natural causes. It is most obvious, therefore, that at some period or other the principal streets have been made to take their present form by dint of human art and labour ; and it is not less evident that from the East, West, and South Gates to the Cross, and from the latter to nearly where the Exchange now stands, which is almost the highest part of the city, excavation has been employed. These conclusions, though they are incapable of proof from any existing testimony, seem necessarily to arise from a close observation of the subject, and I believe they have received the concurrence of all our historians and antiquaries.

But some difference of opinion has existed as to the fact whether these excavations were made prior to the erection of the buildings above, or subsequent to them. This question, although involving no important point of history, is worthy of a slight notice, if it were for no other use than a curious speculation. Webb, in Kings Vale Royal, fixes the origin of the Rows at a much later period than the one I am of opinion they were entitled to, and he likewise leans to the hypothesis that they were a kind of afterwork, begun and completed when the buildings in the sunken line of the streets were already inhabited." Much has been written on the origin of the Rows, and much learning has been expended on the subject, which is indeed of exceptional interest, but it is generally considered that only a little light has been thrown upon it.

Of course, at the present time they are so varied in antiquity and form that it is difficult indeed to approach the subject. The curious Row in Watergate Street here given is a very good example of the more ancient forms. This particular building is generally called Bishop Lloyd's Palace, and the front of it to the street, as all visitors to Chester will recollect, is ornamented with grotesque wood carvings ; but it must be evident that it only occupies the site of some more ancient building; indeed, the oldest of the Rows is evidently in the same position, and we must look for their origin in more remote forms. All theories that refer them to some particular date at which they were simultaneously constructed seem to have been abandoned, and chance-medley has probably had more to do with them than we at one time fancied.

An American gentleman of great intelligence, who visited the city for the first time during the progress of this work, may possibly have conjectured something of the origin of the Rows by giving the original builders credit for sufficient sagacity in their work. " Chester," he said, " is far beyond any city we possess in the New World in COURT CONNECTING WATERGATE AND NORTIIGATE ROWS. point of convenience. Country towns are run up there on a uniform plan, and in some of the streets in the cities of the far west are great blocks of pretentious warehouses and stores that look like bankruptcy itself. A tradesman commencing business has but little option — he must either take one of these or else he is out of the world. And if he takes a place that is so much too large for him, he has to purchase more goods than he can pay for when the time for payment comes round.