The White Chief. A legend of Northern Mexico

Chapter 1

Deep in the interior of the American Con tinent — more than a thousand miles from the shores of any sea — lies our scene. Climb Avith me yonder mountain, and let us look from its summit of snow. We have reached its highest ridge. What do we behold ? On the north, a chaos of mountains, that continues on through thirty parallels to the VOL. I. B THE AVHITE CHIEF. shores of the Arctic Sea ! On the south, the same mountains, — here running in separate sierras, aud there knotting with each other. On the Avest, mountains again, profiled along the sky, and alternating with broad tables that stretch between their bases. Now turn avc around, and look eastward. Not a mountain to be seen ! Far as the eye can reach, and a thousand miles farther, not a mountain. Yonder dark line rising above the plain is but the rocky brow of another plain — a steppe of higher elevation.

Where are we ? On what summit are Ave standing? On the Sierra Blanca, known to the hunter as the " Spanish Peaks." We are upon the western rim of the Grand Brairie.* Looking eastward, the eye discovers no * For explanatory notes the reader is referred to the Appendix at the end of the third volume. signs of civilisation. There are none within a month's journeying. North and south, — mountains, mountains. Westward, it is different. Through the te lescope we can see cultivated fields afar off, — a mere strip along the banks of a shining river. Those are the settlements of Nuevo Mexico, an oasis irrigated by the Rio Del Norte. The scene of our story lies not there. Face once more to the eastward, and you have it before you. The mountain upon which we stand has its base upon a level plain that expands far to the east.

There are no foot hills. The plain and the mountain touch, and at a single step you pass from the naked turf of the one to the rocky and pine-clad declivities of the other. The aspect of the plain is varied. In some places it is green, where the gramma grass has formed a sward ; but in most parts it is sterile as the Saara. Here it appears brown, where the sun-parched earth is bare ; there it is of a sandy, yellowish hue ; and yonder the salt effervescence renders it as white as the snow upon which we stand. The scant vegetation clothes it not in a livery of verdure. The leaves of the agave are mottled with scarlet, and the dull green of the cactus is still further obscured by its thickly-set spines. The blades of the yuccas are dimmed by dust, and resemble clusters of half-rusty bayonets ; and the low scrubby copses of acacia scarce offer a shade to the dusky ayama and the ground rattlesnake.

Here and there a solitary palmetto, with branchless stem and tufted crown, gives an African aspect to the scene. The eye soon tires of a landscape where every object appears angular and thorny ; and upon this plain, not only are the trees of that character, but the THE AVHITE CHIEF. plants, — even the very grass carries its thorns ! With what sensations cf pleasure we turn to gaze into a lovely valley, trending eastward from the base of the mountain ! What a contrast to the arid plain ! Its sur face is covered with a carpet of bright green, enamelled by flowers that gleam like many coloured gems ; while the cotton -wood, the wild china-treej the live-oak, and the willow, mingle their foliage in soft shady groves, that seem to invite us. Let us descend ! We have reached the plain, yet the valley is still far beneath us — a thousand feet at the least — but, from a promontory of the bluff, projecting over it, we command a view of its entire surface to the distance of many miles.

It is a level, like the plain above; and gazing down upon it, one might fancy it a portion of the latter, that had sunk into the earth's crust, so as to come within the influence of a fertilising power, denied to the higher region. On both sides of it, far as the eye can reach, run the bordering cliffs, stepping from one level to the other, by a thousand feet sheer, and only passable at certain points. There is a width of ten miles from cliff to cliff; and these, of equal height, seem the counterparts of each other. Their grim savage fronts, overhanging the soft bright landscape of the valley, suggest the idea of a beautiful picture framed in rough oak-work. A stream, like a silver serpent, bisects the valley, — not running in a straight course, but in luxuriant windings, as though it loved to tarry in the midst of that bright scene.

Its frequent curves and gentle current show that it passes over a surface almost plane. Its banks are timbered, but not continuously. Here the timber forms a wide belt, there only a fringe scarce shadowing the stream, and yonder the grassy turf can be distinguished running in to the very water's edge. Copse-like groves are scattered over the ground. These are of varied forms ; some perfectly circular, others oblong or oval, and others curving like the cornucopias of our gardens. Detached trees meet the eye, whose full round tops show that Nature has had her will in their development. The whole scene suggests the idea of some noble park, planted by design, with just timber enough to adorn the picture without concealing its beauties. Is there no palace, no lordly mansion, to correspond ? No. Nor palace nor cottage sends up its smoke.

No human form appears within this wild paradise. Herds of deer roam over its surface, the stately elk reposes within the shade of its leafy groves, but no human being is there. Perhaps the foot of man never Stay ! there is one by our side, who tells a different tale. Hear him. " That is the valley of San Ildefonso. Wild though it appears, it was once the abode of civilised man. Near its centre you may note some irregular masses scattered over the ground. But for the trees and rank weeds that cover them, you might there behold the ruins of a city. "Yes! on that spot once stood a town, large and prosperous. There was a Bresidio with the flag of Spain flying from its battlements ; there was a grand mission-house of the Jesuit Padres ; and dwellings of rich miners and ' haciendados ' studded the valley far above and below.

A busy populace moved upon the scene ; and all the passions of love and hate, ambition, avarice, and revenge, have had existence there. The hearts stirred by them are long since cold, and the actions to which they gave birth are not chronicled by human pen. They live only in legends that sound more like romance than real history. "And yet these legends are less than a century old ! One century ago, from the summit of yonder mountain could have been seen, not only the settlement of San Ildefonso, but a score of others — cities, and towns, and villages — where to-day the eye cannot trace a vestige of civilisation. Even the names of these cities are forgotten, and their histories buried among their ruins ! " The Indian has reeked his revenge upon the murderers of Moctezuma ! Had the Saxon permitted him to continue his war of retalia tion, in one century more — nay, in half that time — the descendants of Cortez and his con querors would have disappeared from the land of Anahuac ! " Listen to the ' Legend of San Ildefonso ! ' '

Chapter II

Perhaps in no country has religion so many devoted days as in Mexico. The "fiestas" are supposed to have a good effect in Christian izing the natives, and the saints' calendar has been considerably enlarged in that pseudo-holy land. Nearly every week supplies a festival, with all its mummery of banners, and proces sions, and priests dressed as if for the altar scene in " Pizarro," and squibs, and fireworks, and silly citizens kneeling in the dust, and hats off all round. Very much like a London Guy-Fawkes procession is the whole affair, and of about like influence upon the morals of the community. Of course the padres do not get up these ceremonial exhibitions for mere amusement — not they. There are various little " bless ings," and " indultos," and sprinklings of sa cred water, to be distributed on these occa sions — not yratuitously — and the wretched be liever is preciously " plucked " while he is in the penitent mood — at the same time he is promised a short and easy route to heaven.

As to any solemnity in the character of the ceremonials, there is nothing of the sort. They are in reality days of amusement ; and it is not uncommon to see the kneeling devotee struggling to keep clown the cackle of his fighting-cock, which, full-galved, he carries under the folds of his serape! All this under the roof of the sacred temple of God ! On days of fiesta the church genuflexions are soon over ; and then the gambling-booth, the race-course, bull-baiting, the cock-pit, and various minor amusements, come into full ope ration. In all these you may meet the robed priest of the morning, and stake your dollar or doubloon against his, if you feel so inclined. " San Juan" is one of the "fiestas princi pales" — one of the most noted of Mexican ceremonials. On this day — particularly in a New Mexican village — the houses are com pletely deserted.

All pfeople turn out, and proceed to some well-known localitv, usually a neighbouring plain, to witness the sports — which consist of horse-racing, " tailing the bull," "running the cock," and the like. The intervals are filled up by gambling, smoking, and flirtation. There is much of republican equality ex hibited on these occasions. Rich and poor, high and low, mingle in the throng, and take part in the amusements of the day. It is the day of San Juan. A broad grassy plain lies just outside the town of San Ilde fonso, and upon this the citizens are assem bled. It is the scene of the festival, and the sports will soon begin. Before they do, let us stroll through the crowd, and note its component parts. All classes of the community — in fact, all the community — appear to be present. There go the two stout padres of the mission, bustling about in their long gowns of coarse serge, with bead-string and crucifix dangling to their knees, and scalp-lock close shaven.

The Apache will find no trophy on their crowns. There is the cura of the town church, con spicuous in his long black cloak, shovel hat, black silk stockings, pumps, and buckles. Now smiling benignly upon the crowd, now darting quick Jesuitical glances from his dark ill-meaning eyes, and now playing off his white jewelled fingers, as he assists some newly arrived "senora" to climb to her seat. Great " ladies' men " are these same black-gowned bachelor-churchmen of Mexico. We have arrived in front of several rows of seats, raised above one another. Let us observe who occupy them. At a glance it is apparent they are in possession of the "familias principales," the aristocracy of the settlement. Yes — there is the rich " eommcrciante," Don Jose Rincon, his fat wife, and four fat sleepy looking daughters.

There, too, is the wife and family of the " Alcalde," and this magistrate himself with tasselled official staff; and the Echevarrias — pretty creatures that they think themselves — under care of their brother, the beau, who has discarded the national costume for the mode de Baris ! There is the rich " haciendado," Senor Gomez del Monte, the owner of countless flocks and broad acres in the valley; and there are others of his class with their seiioras and senoritas. And there, too, observed of all, is the lovely Catalina de Cruces, the daughter of Don Ambrosio, the wealthy miner. He will be a lucky fellow who wins the smiles of Catalina, or rather, perhaps, the good graces of her father — for Don Ambrosio will have much to say in the matter of her marriage. Indeed, it is ru moured that that matter is already arranged ; and that Captain Roblado, second in com mand at the Presidio, is the successful suitor.

There stands he, in full moustache, covered with gold lace, back and front, and frown ing fiercely on every one who dares to rest eye for a moment upon the fair Catalina. With all his gold lace and gallant strut, Cata lina displays no great taste in her choice; — but is he her choice? Maybe not— maybe he is the choice of Don Ambrosio ; who, him self of plebeian origin, is ambitious that his blood should be mingled with that of the military hidalgo. The soldier has no money — beyond his pay ; and that is mortgaged for months in advance; but he is a true Gachu pino, of " blue blood," a genuine " hija de al"o." Not a sin<ndar ambition of the old miser, nor uncommon among parvenus. Vizcarra, the Commandante, is on the ground — a tall colonel of forty — laced and plumed like a peacock. A lively bachelor is he ; and while chatting with padre, cura, or alcalde, his eye wanders to the faces of the pretty poblanas that are passing the spot.

These regard his splendid uniform with asto nishment, which he, fancying himself " Don Juan Tenorio," mistakes for admiration, and repays with a bland smile. There, too, is the third officer — there are but the three — the teniente, Garcia by name. He is better-looking, and conse quently more of a favourite with both poblanas and rich senoritas, than either of his superiors. I wonder the fair Catalina does not give her preference to him. Who can tell that she does not ? A Mexican dame does not carry her soul upon her sleeve, nor upon her tongue neither. It would be a task to tell of whom Cata lina is thinking just now. It is not likely at her age — she is twenty — that her heart is still her own ; but whose ? Roblado's ? I would Avager, no. Garcia's ? That would be a fairer bet. After all, there are many others — young "haciendados," employes of the mines, anda few merchant dandies of the town.

Her choice may be some one of these. Quien sabe ? Let us on through the crowd ! We see the soldiers of the garrison, Avith VOL. I. c tinkling spurs and long trailing sabres, mingling fraternally Avith the serape-clad tradesmen, the yambucinos, and rancheros of the valley. They imitate their officers in strut and swagger — the very character of which enables one to tell that the mflitary poAver is here in the ascendant. They are all dragoons — infantry Avould not avail against an Indian enemy — and they fancy that the loud clinking of then spurs, and the rattle of their steel scabbards, add greatly to their importance. They have their eyes after the poblanas, and the sweet hearts of the poblanas keep their eyes after them in a constant vigil of jealousy. The " poblanas " are the pretty girls of the place; but, pretty or plain, all the girls are out to-day in their best and gayest appa rel.

Some wear enayuas of blue — others of scarlet — others of purple ; and many of them tastefully flounced at the bottoms Avith a trimming of narroAv lace. They wear the embroidered chemisette, with its snow-white frills, and the blueish reboso gracefully arranged, so as to conceal neck, bosom, arms, and, in some cases of coquetry, even the face ! Ere night this jealous garment will have lost half its prudery. Already the prettier faces peep forth ; and you may see, from the softness of the complexion, that they have been just washed free of the " allegria " that for the last tAvo weeks has rendered them hideous. The " rancheros " are in their full and beautiful costume — velveteen trousers, wide at the bottoms and open up the sides ; botas of unstained leather; jackets of tanned sheepskin, or velveteen richly embroidered ; fancy -Avorkecl shirts underneath, and scarfs of rich red silk around the waist.

Over all the broad-brimmed sombrero, of black glaze, Avith silver or gold band, and tags of the same, screwed into the crown. Some have no jacket, but the serape, hanging negligently from their shoulders, serves in place of one. All of these men have horses with them; and on then feet may be seen spurs full five pounds in AA'eight, with roAvels three, four, and even five inches in diameter ! The " gambucinos," and young men of the town, the smaller trades-people, are very si milarly attired ; but those of higher class — the officials and " commerciantes " — are clad in broad-cloth jackets and pantaloons, not ex actly of European cut, but approaching it — a sort of compromise between Paris fashions aud the native costume of the country. Another costume may be noticed, Avorn by manv of the crowd.

This is the dress of the native "Pueblos," or Indios mansos — the poor labourers of the mines, and the neophytes of the mission. It is a simple dress, and consists of an upper garment the tiluia, a sort of coat without sleeves. A coffee-sack Avith a hole ripped in the bottom for the head to pass through, and a slit cut in each side for the arms, would make the "tilma." It has no waist, and hangs nearly to the hips without other fastening than the support at the shoulders. The tilma is usually a piece of coarse rug — a cheap woollen cloth of the country called " gerga," of a whitish colour, with a few dyed threads to give the semblance of a pattern. This with a pair of dressed sheepskin breeches and rude sandals — yuaraches — con stitutes the wear of most of the " Indios mansos " of Mexico.

The head is bare ; and the legs, from the knee to the ankle, shine forth in all their copper-coloured nakedness. Of these dark aborigines — the " peons " of the mission and the mines — there are hundreds stalking about, Avhile their wives and daughters sit squatted upon the ground in rear of their petates ; upon Avhich are piled the fruits of the soil — the tunas, petahayas, plums, apricots, grapes, sandias, and other species of melons, with roasted nuts of the pinon-tree, the produce of the neighbouring mountains. Others keep stands of dulces and ayua-miel or limonada; while others sell small loaves — pilonfillos — of cornstalk sugar, or baked roots of the agave. Some squat before fires, and prepare tortillas and chile Colorado ; or melt the sugared chocolate cake in their urn-like earthen olios.

From these humble " hucksters," a hot peppery stew, a dish of atole, or a boAvl of pinole, is to be had for a feAv clacos. There are other stands where you can buy cigarillos of punche, or a drink of the fiery aguardiente from Taos or El Paso; and these stands are favourite resorts of the thirsty miners and soldiers. There are no " booths," but most of the hucksters protect themselves from the sun by a huge screen of palmetto mat {petate) placed umbrella-like over their heads. There is one class of persons yet to be spoken of — an important class at the festival of San Juan — they who are to be competi tors in the sports — the real wrestlers in the games. fhese are young men of all grades in society, and all of them mounted — of course, each in the best way he can. There they go, prancing over the ground, causing their gaily caparisoned steeds to caper and curvet, especially in front of the tiers of seated seiloritas.

There are miners among them, and young haciendados, and rancheros, and vaqueros, and ciboleros, and young merchants Avho ride Avell. Every one rides Avell in Mexico — even the dwellers in cities are good horsemen. Nearly a hundred are there of these youths Avho intend to take part in the various trials of skill in equitation. Let the sports begin !

Chapter III

The first exhibition on the programme was to be the colco de toros, which may be rendered in English as " tailing the bull." It is only in the very large cities of Mexico AA'here a regular plaza de toros, or arena for the bull-fight, is to be found ; but in every village, hoAvever insignificant, the sport of bull-tailing may be Avitnessed, as this only requires an open plain, and as Avild a bull as can be procured. The sport is not quite so exciting as the bull-fight, as it is less perilous to those engaged in it. Not unfrequently, however, a gored horse or a mutilated rider is produced by the "coleo;" and fatal accidents have occurred at times. The horses, too, sometimes stumble, and both horse and rider are trampled by the others crowding from behind, so that in the pell-mell drive awkward accidents are anything but uncom mon.

The coleo is, therefore, a game of strength, courage, and skill ; and to excel in it is an object of high ambition among the youth of a New Mexican settlement. The arrangements having been completed, it Avas announced by a herald that the coleo Avas about to begin. These arrangements were simple enough, aud consisted in collecting the croAvd to one side, so that the bull, when let loose, would have a clear track before him in the direction of the open country. Should he not be allowed this favour he might head toivards the crowd, — a thing to be appre hended. In fear of this, most of the women were to be seen mounting into the rude carretas, scores of Avhich Avere upon the ground, having carried their owners to the spectacle. Of course the seiloras and seiioritas on the raised benches felt secure.

The competitors were now drawn up in a line. There were a dozen detailed for this first race, — young men of all classes, who were, or fancied themselves, "crack" riders. There were rancheros in their picturesque attire, smart arrieros, miners from the hills, townsmen, haciendados of the valley, vaqueros from the grazing farms, and ciboleros, Avhose home is for the most part on the wide prairies. Several dragoons, too, were arrayed with the rest, eager to prove their superiority in the maneye of the horse. At a given signal the bull Avas brought forth from a neighbouring corral. He was not led by men afoot, — that Avould have been a dangerous undertaking. His conductors THE AA'HITE CHIEF. were Avell-mouuted vaqueros, who, Avith their lazoes around his horns, Avere ready, in case of his shoAving symptoms of mutiny, to fling him to the earth by a jerk.

A vicious-looking brute he appeared, with shaggy frontlet and scoAvling lurid eye. It Avas plain that it only needed a little goading to make him a still more terrible object ; for he already swept his tail angrily against his flanks, tossed his loner straight horns * Do in the air, snorted sharply, and beat the turf at intervals with his hoofs. He was evidentlv one of the fiercest of a fierce race — the race of Spanish bulls. Every eye Avas fixed upon him Avith in terest, and the spectators freely commented upon his qualities. Some thought him too fat, others alleged he was just in the con dition to make a good run — as in the coleo, speed, not courage, is the desirable quality. This difference of opinions led to the laying of numerous wagers on the result, — that is, the time that should elapse from the start until the bull should be " tailed " and " throAA-n." The throwing of the bull, of course, ends the chase.

When it is considered that the brute selected is one of the strongest, SAviftest, and fiercest of his kind, and that no Aveapon — not even the lazo — is allowed, it Avill be ad mitted this is a matter of no easy accomplishment. The animal goes at full run, almost as fast as the horse can gallop ; and to bring . him to the ground under these circumstances requires the performance of a feat, and one that demands skill, strength, and the best of horsemanship. That feat is to seize the bull's tail, pass it under one of his hind-leys, and then jerk him over upon his back ! The bull was led out, some two hundred yards beyond the line of horsemen, where he was halted, with his head turned to the open plain. The lazoes, that held him by a leash knot, Avere then cautiously slipped, two or three fire-squibs, pointed and barbed, were shot into his hips, and away he Avent amidst the yells of the spectators !

Next moment the riders spurred after, each shouting in his own fashion. Soon the line was broken, and a confused spread of horsemen, like a " field " of fox hunters, was seen scouring over the plain. Each moment the troop became elongated, until what had started in line was now strun^ out in double and single file to a length of several hundred yards. Still on they went, whipping, and spurring, and urging their steeds to the utmost. The bull, maddened by the arrowy squibs, and terrified by their hissing, ran at the top of his speed in a nearly direct line. The start he had been alloAved Avas not so easily taken up, even by fast riders, and he had got a full mile or more before any one neared him. Then a dragoon, mounted on a large bay horse, was seen pressing him closely, and at length laying hold of the tail.

He was observed to give it a jerk or two, as though endeavouring to fling the brute by sheer strength. It Avas a failure, however ; for the next moment the bull shot out in a side direction, and left his pursuer behind. A young haciendado, splendidly horsed, was next upon his flanks ; but each time he reached forth to grasp the tail it was whisked beyond his reach. He succeeded at length in seizing it ; but the bull, making a sudden lurch, whipped his tail from the rider's hands, and left him also in the rear. One condition of the " coleo " was, that each competitor, after having once failed, should retire from the ground; so that the haciendado and the dragoon were now actually hors de chasse. These AA-ere seen riding back, though not directly in front of the spectators. They preferred making a roundabout thing of it, so that their fallen faces might not be too closely scanned on their return.

On went the bull, and after him the eager and excited horsemen. Another dragoon soon tried his " pluck," and also failed ; and then a vaquero, and another horseman, and an other, Avith like success — each failure being hailed by a groan from the crowd. There were several tumbles, too, at which the spec tators laughed heartily; and one horse was badly gored, haAong headed the bull and got entangled upon his horns. In less than ten minutes, eleven out of the twelve competitors Avere seen returning from the chase. Only one noAv remained to make his trial. The bull had proved a splendid fellow, and Avas already in high favour, and loudly ap plauded by the spectators. . "Bravo, toro ! bravissimo!" Avas heard on all sides. All eyes Avere now turned upon the en raged animal and his one remaining pur suer.

Both were still near enough to be well observed, for the chase had led hitherto, not in one line, but in different directions over the plain ; so that the bull was actually no farther from the crowd than when first overtaken by the dragoon. He was at this moment running in a cross course, so that every movement of both pursuer and pursued could be well observed from the stand. VOL. I. D At the first glance it was plain that the bull had now behind him the handsomest horse and horseman upon the field — Avould they prove the best? That was to be tried. The horse Avas a large coal-black mustany, Avith a long full tail, pointed at the tip, and carried like the brush of a running fox. Even while in gallop, his neck slightly curved, and his proud figure, displayed against the smooth SAvard, called forth expressions of ad miration.

The rider Avas a young man of twenty or over ; and his light curling hair and white red complexion distinguished him from all his competitors — AA'ho were, without exception, dark-skinned men. He was dressed in full ranchero costume, Avith its rich broidery and trappings; and instead of the usual " serape," he Avore a purple many a — a more graceful, as Avell as costlier garment. The long skirts of this he had flung behind him, in order to have his arms free ; and its folds, opening to the breeze, added to the gracefulness of his carriage in the saddle. The sudden appearance of this splendid horseman — for, hanging in the rear Avith folded manga, he seemed not to have been noticed before, — caused unusual attention, and many were heard inquiring his name. " Carlos the cibolero !" cried a voice, loud enough to satisfy all at once.