Camping and Tramping in Malaya: fifteen years' pioneering in the native states of the Malay peninsula

Preface

Comparatively little has hitherto been written about the Malay Peninsula, and possibly it may be of interest to describe the early days of a country which has just emerged from a state of barbarism, slave - dealing, and disorder, into a prosperity under British protection that has been seldom equalled in so short a space of time. I have endeavoured to convey to the reader a fair and accurate idea of the country, its people, and the events that have assisted this awakening and enlightenment, by conducting him through the Western Native States of the Malay Peninsula, which I traversed many times as a humble worker in the spread of civilization and pioneer of progress. I will only add that any absence of literary skill is to be excused by the fact of my hand being more accustomed to wield the parang, for cutting my way through the jungle, than the pen, and that my study was chiefly confined to the forest, and the life found therein, where the points of the compass were my only guide.

I have gratefully to acknowledge the assistance I have obtained in the corroboration of various facts and the verification of events from the papers and reports in the Colonial Office Library, and in that of the Royal Asiatic Society. I am specially indebted to my friend Mr. D. H. Wise, Secretary to the High Commissioner of the Protected Malay States, for the numerous photographs, taken by himself, which he has kindly placed at my disposal for the illustration of this book, and which add very materially to its interest. AMBROSE B. RATHBORNE. 27, Evelyn Gardens, London, S.W. March gt/t, 1898. PAGE I-l6 17-3S 39-62 CONTENTS

Chapter I

The Malay Peninsula — Arrival at Singapore — General Description — Chinese Population — Suburban Residences of Merchants — Straits of Johore — Spirit and Opium farmers — Chandu Farm — Sailing and Rowing in Malay boat — Helmsman with an evil repute — Pepper Garden — Gambler Plantation — Coolies' house and Opium smoker — Return to Singapore — The late Sultan of Johore . . . .

Chapter II

The late Sir Frederick Weld, g.C.m.G. — Departure from Singapore — Squall at sea — Arrival at Malacca — Malacca and its Malays — The Malacca Baba — Interior of Malacca — Paddy fields, houses, and inhabitants — Villages, trades, marriages, and divorces — Tapioca planting — Tenure of Agricultural Lands . . . . . . :

Chapter III

Departure for Sungie Ujong — Striking upon sunken rocks — Journey up river — Crocodiles — Captain Murray, R.N., Her Majesty's Resident — Honourable Martin Lister — Black panthers — Rantau — Seremban — Gunong Brembong — Coffee planting — Native Labour — Characteristics of Malays — Pay days . . . . . . . ;

Chapter IV

Monkeys — Flying squirrels and lizards — Wild dogs — Jakuns — Benighted — The jungle — Birds — Wild beasts — Leeches — Ticks — Snakes— Fish — Scenery — Coffee planting — Cholera — Fall over rocks — Waris families — The Chief of Sungie Ujong — Sword dance — Berok monkey — Malay attacked by tigress — Death of tigress and cub — Growth of coffee — Difficulties of labour — Government dilatory — Abandonment of estates ...... 63-87 CONTENTS VIII PAGE IO4 124 140 166

Chapter V

Exploring and Surveying — Rassa — Events which caused British Intervention — Man-eating tiger — Camping in the jungle — Sleeping man seized and carried off by tiger — My syce killed and partially eaten by tiger — Placing spring guns — Alone with a tiger — A shot at a tiger — Village of Lukut — Port Dickson — Cape Ricardo . . . . 88-

Chapter VI

S'tul — Brennang — Samunieh — Pudu — Kwala Lumpor — Frequent fires — The Capitan China — Secret Societies — Events which caused British Intervention — Kwala Selangor — Lombong tin mining — Winning, sluicing, and smelting of tin ore — Division of profits — Miners' houses — Sheds for dying coolies . 105

Chapter VII

Gambling houses — Hua-Hoey lotteries — Lampan working — Superstitions regarding tin ore — Malay Pawang — Dwellers around mines — Malay wood-cutters, felling, sawing, and squaring of timber — Buffaloes at work — Charcoal burners — Buffalo carts — Reverberatory furnaces — Alluvial deposits, and the lode formation of tin and gold . .125

Chapter VIII

Communications in Selangor — Forest — Rattan — Journey to Klang — Timber— Night in the jungle — Wood-cutters — Kwala Lumpor, its central position — Resident-General — Leaving Kwala Lumpor — Travelling northward — Limestone hill and caves — Soil — Wild animals — Rogue elephant — Former denizens of the jungle — Camp — Insects — Scorpions — Horse leeches — Crossing Pass— Ulu Yam — Benighted on horseback — Bathing — Sunset — Remains of Siamese tin workings CONTENTS IX TAGE 191 217 34 ■253

Chapter IX

Ulu Selangor — Destroyed by dam bursting — Trade — Kalompong — Ulu Bernam — River — Mountains — Herd of elephants — Kwala Slim — Crossing swamps — Kwala Galeting — Death of the only Europeans in this district — Fish-hook ants— Trollah — Crute — Small-pox — Sungkai River — Kwala Lepis — Catching wild elephants — Jungkau — Tapah and country round — Hanging over precipice — Sakais . . 167-

Chapter X

Chanderiang — Night at Malay miners' camp — A Sikh policeman and his prisoner — Kwala Dipang — Sungie Rya — Ipoh — Gunong Meerut — The Sensitive Plant — Coolies' loads — Kwala Kangsar — The Regent — Sir Hugh Low, G.CM.G. — The Perak War — A journey down — Birds — Fish — The Sultan — Road to Thaiping — Charged by a rhinoceros — Seladang — Herd of wild pig — Pass in the hills — Bukit Gantong — Events which caused British intervention and the Perak War — Slavery . . . . .192

Chapter XI

Thaiping — Introduction of Pumping Machinery — Orderly behaviour of Chinese miners — Outbreak of Secret Societies, punishment and stampede — Hospitals — Rhinoceros visiting a ward — Sanatorium — View from the hills above Thaiping — Return to Thaiping — Tamil Festival — Churches — Town Life — Government Offices — Theatres and plays — Storms and lightning — Malay running amuck . . .218

Chapter XII

Leaving Thaiping — Journeying on elephants, their obedience and sagacity — The Kurow River — Nearly drowned — Ijuk — Wild elephants — Salamah^- Attacked by wasps — Red ants — Elephants wander, and start delayed — Ascent of Gunong Inas — A disagreeable night — Descent — Janing — Shooting Rapids on the Perak River — Bruar — Kwala Plus — A thunderstorm — Ipoh — A Coffee Plantation, death of manager, typical of many others — British sense of duty . CONTENTS X PAGE ■271 294 -317 339

Chapter XIII

Pigeon shooting — Krian — Snipe shooting — A Tamil ruse — Buffaloes — Nipa palms, and making attaps — Province Wellesley sugar planting, and Indian immigrants — Penang — Its Botanical Gardens and hills — The dwellers in the Island on the Esplanade — Drying and salting fish — Fishing stakes ...... 254-

Chapter XIV

Island of Pangkor — Dutch Fort — Pirates — District Officer murdered — Station moved to Lumut — S'tiawan — Pandah Karim — Start upon a Survey — Tamil boy murdered — Three weeks in a swamp — Thorns and mosquitoes — A tiger — Kota Stia — Rowing up the Perak River to Teluk Anson — The bridle path to Tapah — Poling up the Kinta and Tapah Rivers, and descending them . . . 272

Chapter XV

Mr. Noel Denison — An arduous exploration through floods — Destruction of gutta trees — Method of collecting gutta by Dyaks — Through the floods of the Bernam River — Fever-stricken followers— Rembau, its stockades, politics, and inhabitants — Tampin — Johol — Jempol — Ulu-Moar — S'trimenanti— Exploring— A message from the Datoh— Small-pox —A cock-fight — Coffee trees — Fruit trees — Irrigation- Graves — Earn Tuan of S'trimenanti — Bukit Putus, its defence and capture— Meeting between Sir Frederick Weld and Chiefs — Appointment of Resident 295

Chapter XVI

Jellebu — Crossing the Mountains — Tigers — Kanaboi — Tin Kwala Klawang— Earn Tuan— Terrified elephants— Bukit Tanah— Exploring hills— Road-making— Malays— Chinese- Tamils— The Malay Peninsula— Geology— Climate and rainfall—Some of its products, flora, fauna, and minerals— Its inhabitants, education, and administration — Comparisons of Revenue and Trade . . . ,,g LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGF. A Malay Hill Mine .... Frontispiece Malay Woman Husking Paddy . . . 29 Liberian Coffee . . . ... 47 A Group of Malays . . . . . 51 Tamils . . . . ... 85 The Sultan of Selangor and Followers . . 113 Lombong Mining . . 119 Bullock Cart . . . . . . 145 Bathing a Captive Elephant . . ... 181 Sakais with Blow-Pipes . . . . . 187 Sakais Playing Flute . . . . . 190 A Bag of Wild Pig . . . . . 211 Elephant and Riders . . ... 237 A Street in Penang . . . . . . 261 Chinese Fishing Village . . ... 269 River at Tapah . . . . . . 291 Malay House . . . ... 297 Earn Tuan of S'trimenanti and Followers . . .313 A Road through the Jungle . . ...

Chapter I

The Malay Peninsula — Arrival at Singapore — General Description — Chinese Population — Suburban Residences of Merchants — Straits of Johore — Spirit and Opium Farmers — Chandu Farm — Sailing and Rowing in Malay Boat — Helmsman with an Evil Repute — Pepper Garden — Gambier Plantation — Coolies' House and Opium Smoker — Return to Singapore — The late Sultan of Johore. My first experiences of the East were gained in the island of Ceylon, where I spent some years before proceeding, in January, 1880, to the Native States of the Malay Peninsula, and acquired know ledge that was to be most useful to me in my after life of pioneering in that new and hitherto un developed country, amongst a people unaccustomed to intercourse with Europeans and unused to the trammels of civilization. The Malay Peninsula is a long strip of land, a continuation of British Burmah and Siam, extending southward almost to the equator, and separated from the island of Sumatra by the Straits of Malacca, which is used by steamers proceeding to China and Japan, as well as by numbers of small B trading craft.

The strongly-fortified coaling depot of Singapore, situated at the southern extremity of the peninsula, is one of the principal British strongholds between Aden and the Far East, and together with Malacca, the Dindings, and the island of Penang, form the Colony of the Straits Settle ments , the rest of the peninsula is divided into numerous native states, each ruled by a chief, who is now either under British or Siamese control, these two nations having each their agreed-upon sphere of influence in Malaya. Formerly the greatest anarchy prevailed in these native states, inhabited by Malays ; and it was for the security and the preservation of the small trading schooners, the suppression of piracies and internal disturbances, which were becoming of frequent occurrence, that active steps were taken to put a stop to the prevalent lawlessness, and to exercise more direct control over their affairs by an administration of British officials, as owing to their geographical position (bordering on the Straits of Malacca), and their propinquity to the colony, a continuance of this chronic unrest and pillage was intolerable.

The first circumstances that strike the traveller on reaching Singapore are the bustle and stir going on around, the busy Chinese hurrying hither and thither, the air of prosperity pervading all, and the rich greenness of the vegetation caused by the moist heat and the constant showers, for through out the year there is but seldom any prolonged period of drought. The houses are substantially built, and the godowns of the European merchants are fine ; SINGAPORE. 3 there are here not only many black races, but numerous white nationalities as well, each and all happy and flourishing under the British flag, which makes no difference between them, permitting all to trade and compete without distinction of race, to pay the same taxes, and to be in every wav equal. The Government buildings are palatial, an excel lent club-house overlooks the outer harbour, which is a fine natural anchorage sheltered from the pre vailinawinds, and facing the China Sea, and full of ceaseless activity, cargo boats going backwards and forwards, a perfect fleet of steamers trading with every part of the world, embarking and discharg ing goods, and a constant succession of small boats, carrying passengers, plying to and fro.

Chinese junks with their great brown sails, and sailing craft of every description, which trade between the numerous small and thriving villages dotted round the shores of the many surrounding islands, are busy going and coming, or anchored in the distance off the beach, where the native quarter of the town reaches down to the sea. Singapore is a city of considerable size ; one portion of it is taken up by the European and business community, another by the Chinese traders and retail dealers ; Tamils, Javanese, and Malays occupy other portions, and the rest of the town is composed of a polyglot collection of inhabitants with more than a pro portionate number of Chinese, as the shopkeeping and local trade of the country is principally carried on by them. At night they are still to be seen hard at work when others' shops are closed, for they are strenuous and indefatigable when toiling for their own gain.

The lower classes of Chinese live closely crowded together, earning a livelihood by many forms of manual labour, and the celerity with which ships coal in the harbour is due to their work, for they follow one another in quick succession, a seemingly endless chain of men carrying baskets full of coal on their backs from the sheds to the ships, and returning with them empty in their hands for fresh loads. As a community they are hardworking and generally law - abiding, but should any rule or regulation be issued by the Government which is not to their liking, they become riotous and violent, making the occasion an excuse to satisfy their innate love of a row, to insult Europeans, and do a little looting on their own account. Those who take part in these tumults possess no houses or wives, have deposited their earnings in safe keeping, and have nothing to deter them from joining in the fun and fray, knowing that at most a broken head, which they do not mind, or a term of imprisonment in jail, where they have better food and are more comfortable than they are outside, is all that usually falls to their lot if they get within reach of the police, as directly severe measures for repression are taken these disturbances quickly cease.

The better class of Chinese usually have nothing to do with these outbreaks, for there is an excellent and salutary law that provides for the deportation of any person not a natural-born subject of Her Majesty, who at any time may be proved to be associated with secret SUBURBAN RESIDENCES OF MERCHANTS. 5 societies dangerous to the peace, or to be an instigator or participator in any riots or disturb ances ; so that those who have anything to lose think twice before intriguing and runninothe risk of being sent out of the country. They are hospitable and friendly, pressing their visitors to drink brandy and champagne instead of the ubiquitous tea. They are fond of reiterating emphatic expressions of their own opinions, and this appears to be their most popular form of argument. Many of them speak English, but Malay is the universal language of this part of the world, and forms the medium of conversation between the different races.

The only master they recognize is superior force, and our system of administering justice is so different to what they have been accustomed to, that they are filled with delight to think that so long as they keep within the law, no one else can interfere with them, and this subject forms an oft-recurring source of conversation. They are fond of their children, and liberal in subscribing to local sports and amusements. The suburban residences of the merchants are situate at some little distance from the town, and are good substantial houses, each one built on a portion of the many small hills which are so numerous on the island of Singapore. They stand sequestered in their own grounds amongst beautiful and shady trees and well-kept lawns, forming a pleasing and home-like prospect ; and it is to these comfortable and attractive dwelling-places, with their cool, lofty rooms, that the merchant returns in the evening after his day's work is done, driving thereto along a smooth and well-watered road, passing beneath an avenue of trees which makes the way agreeable and shady even on the hottest days.

Singapore is now the principal town of the Malay Peninsula ; its early history is somewhat obscure, but the island is supposed to have been devastated by the Javanese about 1252, and to have remained almost uninhabited after that time, until it was taken possession of by Sir Stamford Raffles in 18 19, by virtue of a treaty with the Johore princes, when the present city was founded. Desirous of visiting the neighbouring state of Johore, I drove across the island till I reached the straits of that name, at a place situated opposite to the present palace of the Sultan, which can be distinctly seen across the water. On the way I passed many dead nutmeg trees, all that now remained to indicate that a flourishing plantation had previously covered the hillside, for disease and blight had completely killed the trees, and destroyed the industry.

In former times the passage through the Straits of Johore was both tedious and dangerous for sailing ships. The narrow fairway allows but little room for tacking ; the breezes are most fitful ; and the ships, either drifting helplessly with the current, or anchored, waiting for a change of tide or wind, afforded a tempting prey to the piratical inhabitants who lived along the coast and lay in hiding amongst the numerous creeks, from which they would suddenly row out in their long, swift prahus, and SPIRIT AND OPIUM FARMERS. 7 appear at the side of the ill-fated ship almost as soon as an alarm could be given. Then ensued a fierce struggle, ending in certain death to those attacked if overcome. As the boat which I had arranged should meet me had not as yet arrived, I awaited it at the police station, which, like many others, consisted merely of a couple of rooms — one on each side, an open space in the middle, at the far end of which was the lock-up, somewhat resembling a cage with wooden bars in front placed close together, so that the prisoner could not squeeze through whilst wait ing to be taken in to headquarters ; a verandah with a table and a couple of chairs, a stand of arms and cutlasses, and a sentry walking up and down, completed the picture.

When not on duty, the sergeant, or corporal in charge, and his few men occupy quarters close by, where each married man is apportioned a good-sized room. Their duties are not severe ; smuggling troubles them but little, as the port and island of Singapore is free to all goods excepting spirits and opium, for each of which there is what is locally termed a farm. This means that they are let during a term of years to a Chinaman, or syndicate of Chinese, who for a stipulated monthly payment are allowed under certain conditions to have the entire control of the collection of the duty on these articles, and receive every assistance on the part of the Government to enable them to carry on the business. The spirit farmer collects the duty on all im ported spirits, no shopkeeper being able to dispose of a bottle without giving to the purchaser a pass to show that the duty has been paid.

He also manufactures a native spirit called samshu, made from rice, not only intoxicating, but, like absinthe, peculiarly mischievous in its permanent effects. The opium farmer has the sole right of cooking opium, that is, preparing it for smoking — a rather peculiar process. The opium is moistened, boiled, and stirred, then mixed with water, the solution being evaporated until of the consistency of a thin treacly extract, known locally as chandu, which the farmer retails at a certain fixed rate, much higher than its intrinsic value. Half the revenue of the colony comes from these two farms, and the profits of the farmer would be seriously interfered with were there much smugg-linpor illicit manufacture, OO O so he employs a large number of detectives who are constantly on the look-out. When the time approaches for these farms to be renewed the excitement is intense, and the com petition between the different sects of Chinese most keen ; and deservedly. so, for the possession of them gives to the successful competitors an all-pervading influence for a term of years.

Upon their good faith in great measure depend the strength and quality of the spirit, and the purity of the pre pared opium. Their detectives search and examine their countrymen on arrival, thrusting their hands into the pockets of their clothes, and ransacking their bacraaee. OO o This system of chandu farming is not confined to the island of Singapore, but extends to the coast districts of the native states, where an attempt to introduce it into the mining districts of the interior SAILING AND ROWING IN MALAY BOAT. 9 provoked such serious riots and discontent that the endeavour had to be abandoned, and the duty is now collected upon the unprepared opium as it arrives, leaving its preparation to the smokers themselves. The whole principle of farming revenues is per nicious in the extreme, and unbefitting a strong and stable government ; for in times of prosperity the opium farmer makes large profits, but when the reverse occurs the loss ultimately falls upon the Government, as the farmer fails to pay the instalments when due, necessitating the cancelling of his contract and realization of his pledges.

Eastern races have but small appreciation of punctuality ; but at last all was ready, and I em barked on a long, shallow boat, crank and narrow, with only about six inches of freeboard. The crew consisted of five Malays, the helmsman, a fine, strongly - built, powerful - looking man, pleasant mannered, decided and energetic, a worthy de scendant of the pirates of former times ; he was an amusing companion, an excellent sailor, and we made many expeditions together. Some years afterwards he was tried and acquitted of the charge of murdering a Chinese trader ; not the only victim by any means, if report can be credited. His method in each case was supposed to be very similar. He ingratiated himself into the confidences of some unsuspecting Chinese trader, and having persuaded him of the profits to be obtained, they would start together in a boat for some of the numerous islets and creeks along the coasts.

The Chinaman who brought the money to pay for his purchases was never heard of again, and the Malay returned to his home with the story that his Chinese companion had travelled on to some neighbouring village. The fact of each side of these waters being under different jurisdiction made the suppression of such crimes difficult, especially so in the case of a Chinese life, which was not regarded of much value by the Malays, who naturally did their best to screen their countrymen and co-religionists. As there was a favourable breeze we hoisted sail, and in order to keep the boat upright and in trim as she scudded along, ropes were fastened to the mast, having loops on the lower end in which some members of the crew sat, with their feet on the gunwale, and at every stronger puff of wind they would push themselves out from the boat with their toes, craning their bodies over the water, and with their weight counteracting each gust and preventing the boat from turning turtle.

The number of men hanging out depended on the strength of the wind, a one, or two, or more man breeze, as it is termed. Crossing the straits and coasting along the o o o opposite shore, we enjoyed a most exhilarating sail, when, suddenly turning into a narrow creek, invisible from a distance, we found ourselves in a perfect calm, so thick were the mangrove trees on either side. The sail was hauled down, and the boatmen made ready to row. A round piece of twisted rattan, which in this country serves for rope and string, placed over a wooden peg stuck into the side of the boat, was the primitive arrange- PEPPER GARDEN. 1 1 ment that took the place of rowlocks. The oar blades, which were not so large as those of a small scull, were nailed, and tied with rattan, on to straight poles not much thicker than broomsticks, and the handles being passed through the rattan rings the rowers dip these rude oars into the water, and at the end of each stroke they give a mild sort of jerk, which is sufficient to cause the light craft to glide over the water, although so little power is applied.

After a short row up the creek, which gradually became narrower and narrower, until the bushes on either side touched the oars, we reached a roughly constructed landing-stage, to which was fastened a primitive ladder, and climbing up it we found ourselves in a pepper garden, with its gambier plantation adjoining, both cultivations being at the time very profitable occu pations, and much pursued in the state of Johore, being owned and worked by Chinese. These pepper gardens, although small in size, are expensive to open and keep in a proper state of cultivation, and it is necessary to have adjacent a considerable reserve of jungle, where burnt earth can be made, for it is the principal manure used, and has a great effect on the health and productiveness of the vines. When a Chinaman is desirous of making a pepper garden, the first thing he does is to engage Malays to fell and burn the jungle and build a house, the sides and roof of which are covered with attap leaves, cut from that most useful palm, nipa fruti cans.

He then procures Sinkehs; these are Chinese who, wishing to leave their country and seek work elsewhere, are collected and brought to Singapore by some broker, who keeps them in his house until a purchaser arrives, and buys them of him for a certain sum per head. These coolies are then taken to the Chinese protectorate, where they sign articles to work at fixed rates of pay during the period of their indenture, at the expiration of which they are free to go where they choose. Pepper cuttings are next purchased, but are often difficult to procure, as the best kinds are obtainable only when the young vines have to be cut back. After being struck, they are planted against posts, to which they are tied, and up which they climb, and ultimately cover. The vines are perennial, with leaves of a somewhat hard, dark green colour ; and a person walking through the garden seems to be in the midst of a forest of posts encircled with vines of a uniform cylindrical shape, with short lateral branches growing outwards, from which clusters of green pepper corns hang clown in small bunches, speckled and brightened here and there by a few reddening ones riper than the rest, showing that the time for harvesting has arrived, as the vines are injured by allowing the berries to ripen on them, which therefore are gathered when full grown, but before being thoroughly mature, so that they may not lose their pungency, or shed and fall to the ground.

If black pepper is made, the berries are detached from the stem and sun-dried on mats. Should white pepper be required, the bunches are allowed to ripen by keeping them some days in the house GAMBIER PLANTATION. 13 after gathering ; the stalks and pulp are then removed, and the white seeds dried. The Chinese overseer conducted me over the plantation, and passing through a belt of forest we suddenly emerged into an adjacent gambier plantation, which appeared to be in the last stage of productiveness, for the bushes were bare and straggling, with only a few leaves remaining at the end of their branches. This cultivation rapidly exhausts the soil, and as but little care is taken of the trees, whose younger shoots are being continually cut, no wonder that in a few years' time the bush itself becomes choked and dies.

Coolies were carrying bundles of gambier sticks to the shed, where the leaves and the young shoots are put into a large shallow pan with water, a fire being lighted underneath ; and, after sufficient boiling, the leaves are taken out and drained, so O' that none of the liquor shall be lost. When sufficiently evaporated, the liquid is stirred up and down with a piece of soft wood until it thickens, the whole becoming a mass resembling soft, yellowish clay, which is then placed in shallow trays, and when somewhat hardened cut into cubes, dried in the shade, and sold under the name of gambier, being used for tanning and dyeing. The boiled leaves are not wasted, but serve as a top dressing for the roots of the pepper vines. On returning to the house, some tea was at once poured out into small, round, handless cups ; for on the table of every Chinese dwelling a tea-pot invariably stands ready for use, containing a weak fluid with just a flavour of tea, which passers-by are constantly pouring out and taking a sip of.