A Summer in Spain

Chapter I. Page

Doubts and Difficulties — Custom-house — Troops at Zumarraga — Arrival at Burgos — Las Huelgas — Cartuja of Miraflores — Tomb ofthe Cid — Cathedral . . . 1

Chapter II

Comforts and Discomforts — Prices — Politeness — Arrival at Valladolid — Cathedral — San Pablo — Colegio of San Gregorio — San Miguel — House of Columbus — Museum — Plaza Mayor — Journey to Avila — Cathedral — San Tomas — San Segundo — San Vicente — Granite Bulls — Costume . . 17

Chapter III

Journey from Avila — Wild Flowers — Guadarrama — Eirst Impressions of Madrid — Puerta del Sol — Plaza Mayor — The Spanish Veil and Spanish Fashions — the Prado — Climate — Society — Picture Gallery .... 41

Chapter IV

Academy of San Fernando — Palace of the Duke of Alva — Plaza de Oriente — Royal Stables and Coach-houses — Unpopularity of King Amadeus — St. Antonio de la Florida — Atocha — Bull-fights — Fete Dieu ... Contents. VI FAGE

Chapter V

Toledo — Casa de Huespedes — First Impressions of the Cathedral — San Juan de los Reyes — St. Maria la Blanca — El Transito— Jews of Toledo — Old Palace of the Moorish Kings — A Tagus Eel — Experiences of Sketching — Pet Animals — Chapels in the Cathedral — Alcazar — Zocodover — El Cristo de la Luz — Puerta del Sol — Hospital of Santa Cruz — Aranjuez .... 95

Chapter VI

A Spanish Diligence — Mountain Road — La Granja — Gardens — Palace — Marshal Serrano — Waterworks —An Active Tortoise — Snakes — Drive to Segovia — Old Amphitheatre — Cathedral — Little Manuela — Alcazar — Mint — Santa Cruz — San Domingo — San Esteban — Aqueduct — Parral — Vera Cruz — Provincial Museum — Journey to Escorial — Church — Royal Sepulchres — Library — Pictures — Back to Madrid 123

Chapter VII

Journey to Granada — First Visit to the Alhambra — Arabic Inscriptions — Legends — Cathedral — Gipsy Town — San Nicholas — Pigs — Cartuja — Casa de Tiros — Generalise—Oleanders — Garden of the Adarves . . . 170

Chapter VIII

Spanish Protestant Church in Granada — Schools — Villa Bella Vista — Mosque — Tower of the Captive — Tower of the Infantas — Cuarto Real of San Domingo — Artist's Studio — Museum — Vineyard — Spanish Agriculture — Political Dinner — A House in Granada — Monte Sacro — Fountain of Tears — Funerals — Farewells — Journey to Cordova Contents. VII PAGE 328

Chapter IX

The Court of Oranges — The Mosque — Cordovan Silver — Recently discovered Mosaic — Juan De Mena — Necromancy — Palace of Azzahra . . . . . . 247

Chapter X

Arrival at Seville — Cathedral — Crocodile — Giralda — Alcazar — Ruby of the Red King — Gardens — Museum — Hospital of La Caridad — Library — Palace of the Duke de Montpensier — Las Delicias — House of Murillo — Palace of the Duke of Alva — Casa O'Lea — Casa de Pilatos — Fruit-market — Protestantism in Seville — Cartuja — Italica . . . . . . . .271

CHAPTER XL

Cadiz — Church of the Capuchins — Murillo's last Pictures — Cathedral — Polite Boys — Journey to Algeciras — Sugar-canes — First view of Gibraltar — Bambles on the rock — Monkeys 309

Chapter XII

Voyage to Tangiers — Custom-house — Market— Costume — Hareem — Jewels — Tangerine Tea — Roman Bridge — Palace of the Pasha — Garden of the Swedish Consul — Moorish Lilies — Country Walk — Bazaar — Jewish Feast of Tabernacles — Synagogue — Back to Gibraltar .

Chapter XIII

Voyage to Malaga — Castle— Cathedral — Raisins— Gorge of the Guadalhoree — Insecure Bridge — Arrival at Alicante — First Impressions — Esplanade — Pomegranates — The City of Palms — Journey to Valencia — Cathedral — Colegio del Patriarca — Dies Iræ — Museum— Gallery of the Marquis de Casarojas — Grao . . . Contents. VIII PAGE 400

Chapter XIV

Lonely Sea-coast — Mistakes of Travellers — Tortosa — Cathedral of Tarragona — San Pablo — Cyclopean Walls — Roman Aqueduct — Tomb of the Scipios — Museum of Antiquities — Palace of Augustus — Roman Amphitheatre — Carlists — Detention and Difficulties — Hasty Departure — Barcelona — Cathedral — Roman Remains — Monjuich — San Pablo del Campo — Casa de la Disputacion — Danger from Brigands — Farewell to Spain

Chapter I

Doubts and Difficulties — Custom-house — Troops at Zumarraga — Arrival at Burgos — Las Huelgas — Cartuja of MlRAFLORES — ToMB OF THE ClD — CATHEDRAE. Often had we wished to make a tour in Spain, but, unfortunately, it had never happened that the country was quiet when we could go. After the accession of King Amadeus, we, believing in the rose-coloured view of things at that time prevalent in Italy, thought the suitable time had come. But one's Eomanwinter home is too pleasant a thing to leave without due consideration ; and we greatly dreaded carpetless rooms, chimneyless houses, and discomforts in general. There was our bright Eoman life on the one hand ; on the other, the glories of the Madrid gallery ; the Moorish memories of Cordoba; the orange-groves of Seville; Cadiz, rising like Venus from the sea ; the palm-forests B of Elche ; our own Gibraltar, and, fairest of all, the Arabian Alhambra.

But the cold of travelling in Spain in winter! What was to be done ? It is so pleasant to see things ! Yet it is so disagreeable to be uncomfortable, and especially to break up one's winter home one's house, to the manifold inconveniences of which one has got accustomed; one's old and trusty servants, to whose shortcomings one has become positively attached ! At length the idea occurred to me, "If it be objec tionable to go in winter, why not go in summer ? " Certainly, in that case, we should not suffer from the cold, whatever else might be our miseries. But, then, it might be too hot. "Well, we had spent summers in Italy, and it was rather hot; yet I don't think we ever regretted it. We could go to the Pyrenees if Spain were too hot. At least, I said so ; but privately I had it in my mind to spend the hot months quietly at Granada ; only I did not say so, for fear of being told it was impossible.

Why, it was almost Africa. Accordingly, we decided that we should leave Eome soon after Easter, 1872, and take advantage of the apparently peaceable state of the country. We sent for a Spanish master ; and were provided, Doubts and Difficulties. 3 by the kindness of our friends, with letters of intro duction for Madrid and elsewhere. All was prosper ing, when just as our things were packed up, came the news of the Carlist insurrection. It was exceedingly provoking ; and we were obliged to delay our departure a little. If they would only have kept quiet for six months more ! We very nearly abandoned our project ; but a friend, who had lived long in Seville, advised us to take courage, saying, " If you don't like revolutions, why did you ever plan a tour in Spain ? " At last we determined to go on and trust to Fortune.

We might possibly be able to get in if we went to the frontier ; at any rate, it was quite cer tain that unless we went there, we had no chance. If things were very bad, we could stay at Biarritz, or go to the Pyrenees for the summer ; and perhaps in autumn we might get across the Bidassoa. And there was always the hope that the newspaper accounts might be exaggerated ; which, as we after wards found, was very far from being the case. On the 25th of April we started, and got on pros perously till we arrived at Bayonne, where the news greeted us that the rails were cut, there was fighting along the line, and nobody could go into Spain. At the station no tickets were issued. b2 Next day it was reported that the way was clear. But the accounts were so conflicting that we went to the English Consul to ask his opinion.

He prudently said he did not exactly like to advise people to go on, when the country was in such a state ; but it certainly was possible to pass, others having gone without meeting with any inconvenience. On further inquiry, he said that one of the stations, Zumarraga, was in the hands of the Carlists ; but that there seemed to be a kind of understanding that as long as the trains brought only passengers, and not troops, nor material of war, they would be allowed to pass. That evening, however, the trains were again at a standstill. We therefore thought it best to go on to Biarritz, and wait for calmer times. There we were fortunate enough to meet friends coming out of Spain, who said they had found no difficulties to signify, and strongly urged us to go on. We were quite willing to follow this advice ; the only obstacle was, that the trains did not go.

There was nothing for it but to enjoy ourselves at Biarritz. Sketching, scrambling about the cliffs, and walking on the sands by that delicious green sea. So pleasant was it, that I think we were almost sorry when we were told that we could now have tickets for Spain. The Custom-house. 5 Tickets for Spain ! How strange it sounded ! We started for Burgos on the 15th of May, by the midday train, and almost immediately, as it seemed to me, crossed the Bidassoa. Of course, we were stopped at the frontier to have our luggage examined. The solemnity of the Custom-house officers wap something appalling ; my heart died within me as ] advanced with my keys. The boxes were opened, and the douanier very gravely and very slowly drew on a pair of perfectly clean white gloves, and then proceeded to turn over my dresses with the utmost care and minuteness.

No waiting-maid could have handled them more daintily. But everything was examined : what he expected to find I don't know ; he made no remark, replied only by a bow to my attempts at Spanish conversation, and when he had carefully looked at every thing in my box, he motioned me to open my bag. I did so ; and the same process was gone through. At last he drew out a new sponge-bag which I had bought at Bayonne, and holding it cautiously between his finger and thumb, asked what it was. I explained as best I could. He looked graver than before, and politely requested me to open it. I did so ; and he shut one eye, and looked in with the other, holding it, however, at arm's length, as if he feared it would explode. Seeing that he was not satisfied, I offered to take out the sponge, that he might examine it at his ease.

"It would be better," he said. On the sponge being extracted, he asked " of what use that could possibly be ? " I tried to explain the use of a sponge, as well as my limited command of Spanish would permit. He listened courteously, but with evident disbelief, saying, "It might be so; but he had never seen such a thing before." However, he did not confiscate the article, perhaps because he was so persuaded of its uselessness ; and at last I was allowed to depart. We should have much liked to stop at San Sebas tian, and also at Pasajes, where the harbour is ex ceedingly curious ; it is like a Scotch loch or a Nor wegian fiord, only more completely landlocked. But in the present state of things, we thought it wiser to pass through the Carlist bands as quickly as possible, and go straight to Burgos.

The sky was grey, the country was wooded, the trees just breaking out into their first fresh leaf, Little valleys lay quietly among the hills, little clear streams ran sparkling below the green boughs ; all was cool, not to say cold ; and the roads, when there were any, were exceedingly muddy. There was no dust, no Troops at Zumarraga. 7 glare, no sun ; nothing that one had been accustomed to think Spanish ; not even a donkey to be seen. The Pyrenees had disappeared in a most extraordinary manner ; indeed, of all the mountain ranges I have ever encountered, they are generally the most per sistently invisible. Those green valleys must be most excellent cover for Carlists and other guerilla bands. No regular troops would have a chance there. We now under stood why it was that the Carlists kept appearing and disappearing, never any the worse for being defeated ; if, indeed, they were defeated.

We went on slowly, but comfortably enough, till past five o'clock, when I knew we ought to be approaching the dreaded station of Zumarraga. At first, we had been so triumphant at crossing the Bidassoa, that we were recklessly indifferent to what might happen next. Now, however, we began to wonder how it might be ; and just at that moment we perceived a small hole, the unmistakable mark of a rifle bullet, in most un pleasantly suggestive proximity to the passengers' heads. While we were considering attentively the mark of the bullet, and wondering if it had passed through the carriage yesterday or the day before, and whether it had done mischief or not, the train slackened speed ; we were coming to a station. I looked out, it was the dreaded name Zumarraga, and the platform was crowded with very dirty soldiers.

However, they turned out to be the royal troops, who had re-taken the station the night before. It was well we did not arrive in the midst of the fighting. Some of the soldiers were wounded ; and all looked disconsolate and much dilapidated. None of them had stockings, nor shoes either, in our acceptation of the word. They had only sandals ; not the picturesque sandal of the Abruzzi *peasant, but simply a very ill shaped bit of leather (or rather of the skin of some animal, for it scarcely merited the dignity of being called leather), caught up, toe and heel, with a dirty rag, and tied round the ankle. We were told that this was a classical and historical chaussure, and exceed ingly comfortable besides : it certainly was particularly ugly. We went on again, much faster tban before. I fancy they had feared being thrown off the rails, as was often done by the Carlists, and had therefore gone very slowly ; consequently, we were a good deal behind time.

Away we went through the gathering dusk ; the scenery grew magnificent; extraordinary peaks and pinnacles seemed about to fall on us : it was like the chaos of an unfinished world. Arrival at Burgos. 9 But soon it grew too dark to distinguish anything, and at 11 p.m. we found ourselves in Burgos. That same arrival in Burgos was rather more alarmingly Spanish than anything we had as yet met with. What a dirty omnibus it was ! In Spain, as in some parts of the south of France, the hotels have not yet reached the luxury of a conveyance of their own ; and private carriages are, as a rule, even more unattainable ; so the only means of getting to or from the station is the common street omnibus, which is far from select in its inmates, as we perceived on this occasion. However, we were really exceptionally for tunate, for in one corner was an English lady travel ling quite alone.

This greatly reassured us, as she had fearlessly come up through the whole of Spain in perfect safety, if not always in absolute comfort. The hotel (Fonda del Norte) did not look very inviting ; the stair was dark and dirty ; and, as is always the case in even tolerably good Spanish inns, nobody came out to meet us, far less to relieve us of our hand-luggage. With difficulty somebody was found, who looked a good deal surprised to see us, but at last showed us a very wretched bedroom. We were too tired, however, to care much, and soon were asleep. It is a curious sensation to waken for the first time in Spain, in Burgos, the very name of which brings grand old memories of Edward the First of England, and his heroic wife, his chere reine Eleanor, or, as I suspect she was called in Spain, Leonor : and longer ago and grander still, the tales of the Cid him self, Euy Diaz of Yivar, the Campeador of Spain.

But on first opening your eyes in this chivalrous city, it is more curious than pleasing to observe the many specimens of entomology which have been familiarly associating with you during the hours of darkness. It was fearful ! The floor was black with beetles, one of which ran out of the sleeve of my waterproof cloak when I put it on. The walls were spotted with yet more evil insects. I am bound to state, however, for the honour of Spain, that this, as it was the first, was also the last really dirty inn we suffered from in the whole of our Peninsular travels. In fact, on the whole, Spanish inns are cleaner than Italian ones used to be in old vetturino days. Even here, there was next our bedroom a tolerably clean and comfortable little sitting-room, where they said we might have our chocolate.

Accordingly, we had some of that excellent chocolate, which is the staff of life in Spain, and set off in a curious, old-fashioned, high-hung hackney coach (the only vehicle in the Las Huelgas. 11 town except the railway-omnibus) to the tomb of the Cid, and other interesting places round Burgos. We first went to Las Huelgas, where Edward of England was knighted by Alonso the Wise, the astronomer-king, who ventured to doubt the sun moving round the earth, and was very nearly struck by lightning in consequence ; so say the monkish historians. Dante, too, blames this learned monarch, not on account of his lax astronomical opinions, but because he neglected the earth for the starry heaven. Las Huelgas was, however, not the scene of Alonso's astronomical studies, nor of any such hetero dox theories.

All here was most orthodox, most Spanish : the nuns in their black and white robes, sitting on the floor and listening in that icy cold church to a solemn reading ; the crucifixes clad in blue or pink silk petticoats ; the represention of Sant iago on his white horse, as he appeared fighting against the Moors at Clav'ijo, when the worthy chronicler, Bernal Diaz, who fought in the same battle, remarks, "No doubt it was so; but it was not given to me, a sinner, to see him." Some of these nuns wore a very peculiar head-dress, like horns ; it put me in mind of the crescent moon on the forehead of the Egyptian goddess Athor. We asked why they were not all dressed alike ; and were told that those with the moonlike tire were the original nuns of Las Huelgas, and were of high rank ; they, therefore, walk into the choir before the hornless ladies, who were not noble, and had been brought here from another convent.

Apart from historical interest, there is not much to see at Las Huelgas, and we went on to the Cartuja, or Carthusian convent, of Miraflores, with its exquisite alabaster monument of John the Second, the founder, and his Queen, Isabel of Portugal, the father and mother of Isabella the Catholic. It is impossible to imagine anything more fairy-like than the delicate carving ; one could have spent months in studying those lovely designs. The vine-foliage 'en circling the kneeling figure of their son, the Infante Alonso, is also especially beautiful. But the alabaster blossoms and leaves within the church are all that now entitle the place to the epithet of Miraflores ; without, it is desolate and absolutely flowerless. Next we went to San Pedro de Cardena, where the bones of the Cid once lay, and where his tomb still remains.

What a strange, dreary wilderness that country is round Burgos ! The fields were brown, and the sky was black, and the road (when there was one) blinding white ; while the wind howled The Tomb of the Cid. 13 wildly over the wide treeless plain. And yet this was in what elsewhere would have been the merry month of May ! But can any month be merry in Old Castile? I wonder if it looked like that when the dead Campeador was brought here on his war-horse, Bavieca. Certainly, the road, when we saw it, was much fitter for a horse than for any sort of carriage. No words can convey an adequate idea of the state it was in. Between the deep ruts and the high wind, I cannot think how we escaped being upset. However, we arrived in safety at that lonely church in the desert. There lies the armed figure of the Cid on his now empty tomb; and in truth the sacristan, and an old friar aged eighty-eight, who showed it to us, seemed scarcely more alive than he.

They were anxious for news from the outer world; but were rather behind in foreign politics. The friar was surprised and grieved to learn that the house of Bourbon did not now reign in Naples. We, on our parts, were equally surprised to hear that the Carlists were in the Sierra, close to us, march ing upon Burgos, which was to rise next day. Upon this, we reproached our guide with bringing us into danger, saying, he ought to have informed himself before coming. The reply was, " Madame, I was perfectly aware of it ; but I am a Carlist captain, and you are safe with me." How it would have been had the Carlists appeared, I don't know. Probably, we should have met with perfect politeness ; and I really believe, even without the Carlist captain, we ran no risk whatever ; but, as it was, we saw no Carlists, nor indeed any other living thing, the whole way (five miles) back to Burgos.

There, too, we were much struck with the utter loneliness and silence of the streets. On asking why there was nobody visible, the answer was, " Because ail the Carlists are obliged, on pain of a fine, to keep within doors." The inference was that the whole population were Carlists, which we were assured was really the case. In the afternoon we went into the Cathedral, that gorgeous Cathedral, too rich, too sumptuous, be wildering in its variety of ornament. It is a pity that here, as almost everywhere in Spain, the choir so completely blocks up the interior that no good general view can be obtained. The plan of a Spanish cathedral is a house within a house. But the details are exquisite, especially in the chapel of the Condestable, built for Don Pedro Fernandez de Velasco, hereditary Constable of Castile.

The Cathedral. 15 This chapel was built in 1487, by John of Cologne, who also designed the Cartuja of Miraflores, and the west front of the Cathedral, with its delicate spires. The tombs of Don Pedro and his wife are very beauti ful. Yet, after walking through all those gorgeous chapels, one leaves them with eye and mind weary rather than satisfied. Outside, however, the Cathedral is perfect, especially when seen in the early morning from the railway station. We went also to the Casa de Ayuntamiento (Town Hall), to see the bones of the Cid and of Ximena, which are kept in a glass case. Better had they been left in his beloved San Pedro de Cardena, in the tomb erected for them, six hundred years ago, by Alonso the Wise. On the whole, Burgos, with all its dreary desolation, its strange, bleak loneliness, exceeded my expectations.

I had been told it was quite a French -looking town, and so perhaps it may appear to those who come from quiet old Cordoba, where it is difficult to believe that Abdarrahman is dead ; or from that Oriental bazaar, the Alcaiceria of Granada. To us, who had just left comfortable Pau, the very perfection of dull luxury, and bright little brisk Biarritz, the con trast was striking; and the silent streets, with their projecting miradors, seemed quite Spanish enough. It was the old story of the two travellers, one ascending, the other descending the mountain. However, as before our departure we heard that the Carlists really arrived at San Pedro de Cardena a few hours after we left it, I think we were rather glad to leave Burgos behind us.

Chapter II

Comforts and Discomforts — Prices — Politeness — Arrival at Valladolid — Cathedral — San Pablo — Colegio of San Gregorio — San Miguel — House of Columbus — Museum — Plaza Mayor — Journey to Avila — Cathedral — San Tomas — San Segundo — San Vicente — Granite Bulls — Costume. We left Burgos at 5.30 a.m., after having the un failing cup of chocolate, which there is never the slightest difficulty in procuring, however early the hour. In this respect Spain is much more comfort able than Italy, or France, or indeed any other country I have ever travelled in. Whether you are leaving a large hotel, with waiters on each floor, as at Madrid, or the smallest wayside Posada, without waiters at all, as at Elche, your chocolate, with a bit of excellent bread, is brought to your room half an c hour before you wish to start, even if it be 4 a.m., and so sustaining is this delicious chocolate that you can travel on for half the day without wishing for anything more.

How unlike the miseries of an early start in most countries, where the orders you have given the night before are never attended to till you grope your way into the salle-a-manger, and find all the chairs on the top of the dining-table, while a sleepy, cross waiter looks injured because you ask for a cup of coffee ; which is at last brought, along with the bill full of mistakes, and the announcement that the omnibus is at the door ! All this annoyance is obviated in Spain, partly by the prompt chocolate in your room, and partly by the very convenient system of paying so much a day, agreed on at the moment of entering the hotel. The sum varies much, and there are some times a few extras, always ascertainable beforehand. As a general rule, the higher the charge, the more extras one has to pay ; if the prices are very low, there are no extras at all.

At the Fonda de Paris, in Madrid (the dearest hotel we were in), we paid sixty reals a day each person, a real being about twopence halfpenny of English money, or a quarter of a French franc ; thus the price was about fifteen francs a day each, or indeed rather more, as the peseta (four reals), Prices. 19 which answers to the French franc, is really a more valuable coin ; add to which that the rate of exchange is always very much against English travellers in Spain. This sum of fifteen francs included only a very large and beautifully furnished bedroom, with windows on the Puerta del Sol ; breakfast a la four chette. with tea or coffee and wine, and dinner at table cThote, also with wine, which is everywhere comprised in the daily charge. In some parts of Spain you have to pay for water (that is, if you are particular, which all Spaniards are, about having it very good), for wine, never ; every inn gives that at discretion ; sometimes good, sometimes bad, but always abundant.

Generally speaking, the wine is said to be best in out-of-the way places, where there are few travellers except the muleteers, who won't drink it unless it is good, and where there are so few English that it is not worth while to keep bad wine for them. In Madrid, the morning chocolate (one franc each), service, and lights were extra ; also tea or coffee, if taken at any time but breakfast. At Elche, where the prices were lowest of all, we paid fourteen reals a day, everything — chocolate, lights, and service, in cluded. At Segovia, twenty reals, also everything included. The usual price, however, all over Spain, c2 Spam. 20 except in Madrid, is thirty reals a day ; that is what one ought to offer, on entering most hotels. At the Hotel Siete Suelos, at Granada, we paid thirty-five ; but there we had a very pretty little suite, consisting of two bedrooms and a sitting-room, and there were no extras, except the large marble plunge-baths ; they gave us small baths in our rooms without additional charge.

At Malaga, also, thirty -five was the price ; but there too we had a large sitting-room. In all hotels, even when service is charged in the bill, it is necessary to give something to waiters, chamber maids, and everybody who has or has not done any thing for you. Also, I may remark, that in Spain, much larger gratuities are expected than in France, Germany, or Italy. Not that the Spaniards are greedy ; far from it : they will often give you things for nothing ; even an hotel-keeper will sometimes not charge you for some trifle, saying, "It will be for the next time." But they think it beneath the dignity of a Spaniard to accept a small sum, or to work without a large remuneration. On the whole, the discomforts of travelling in Spain have been greatly exaggerated. In winter I should think cold must be the great evil, judging by Avhat we suffered in that respect in May ; while in all the six months of Spanish summer and autumn, Comforts and Discomforts. 21 we seldom found it very hot, not at all to be com pared with the broiling climate of Italy.