By Land and Ocean; or, the Journal and letters of a young girl who went to South Australia, etc

Front matter

BY LAND AND OCEAN LONDON : PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO.. NEW-STREET SQUARE AND PARLIAMENT STREET Frontispiece THE BOTANICAL GARDENS, ADELAIDE (LAKE VIEW BY LAND AND OCEAN OB THE JOURNAL AND LETTERS OF A YOUNG GIRL WHO WENT TO SOUTH AUSTRALIA WITH A LADY FRIEND, THEN ALONE TO VICTORIA, NEW ZEALAND, SYDNEY, SINGAPORE, CHINA, JAPAN, AND ACROSS THE CONTINENT OF AMERICA HOME BY FANNY L. RAINS NEITHER RASHLY, NOR TIMIDLY' LONDON SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON CROWN BUILDINGS, 188 FLEET STREET 1878 A If rights reserved PBEFACE. It is with great reluctance and many sinkings of heart that I have yielded to the oft-repeated requests of my friends, and have prepared for print this rambling ac count of my joumeyings, for there are so many books of travel written now-a-days with skilful and well-trained pens, that I fear how mine will stand the ordeal of public criticism.

No thrilling incidents nor wonderful adventures are here recorded, but the whole may serve to show with what enjoyment and comparative ease a lone damsel travelled the greater part of the way round the world, without even a maid. One other remark I would make, which is, that my stay in any one place was too short for me to gain aught but a cursory knowledge of the manners and customs of vi

Preface

. the people, or of the countries through which I passed, and I therefore express with diffidence the thoughts and opinions I have formed en passant, and would re mind my readers that they lack the authority to be gained from a more lengthy sojourn and greater expe rience. F. L. E. CONTENTS. CHAPTER PAGB I. To Adelaide . . . . . .1 II. Adelaide . . . . . . . 16 III. Melboukne and New Zealand . . .28 TV. Melboitrne, Sydney, Singapore . . . . 50 V. Singapore and Hongkong . . . .84 VI. Canton and Yokohama . . . . . 120 VII. Yokohama, San Francisco, Yosemite Valley, and Salt Lake City ..... 161 VIII. Chicago, Niagara, Philadelphia, New York, and Home . . . . . . . 2?4 ILLUSTEATIONS Government House and Grounds, Adelaide. The Botanical Gardens, Adelaide — Lake View. Sydney. Hongkong. A Chinese Boat. Street in Canton. The Willow Pattern Bridge, Canton.

Chapter I. To Adelaide

It was a bright sunny day, July the 26th, that we started, my friend and I, in a sailing vessel bound for Adelaide. We went on board in the docks, preferring to begin our journey at the starting-point. To the tender farewells which took place, I will not allude further than to say that we were all very brave, and even tried to indulge in some feeble jokes as we stood on deck watching our friends get indistinct in the distance. When they were no longer visible we retired to our cabin to try and put things therein a little ship-shape before night. It appeared pretty nearly air-tight by the time we and our goods and chattels were all stowed away, and I began to realise that I had done what I believe some ships are said to do — viz., ' slip their anchor and run out to sea ; ' my travels really had begun although we were only in the Eiver Thames.

The evening was uneventful, and we retired early, but not to sleep ; for what with the tread is of the watch, and the remonstrances of the cow and other live stock on board against the position in which they found themselves, there was not much chance of rest. The Captain, too, with his wife and some friends, arrived at 11 p.m., which somewhat added to the commotion. At 3.30 a.m. the noises began again with swinging of compasses, followed by washing of decks — in fact, there was such a variety of sounds, and all so startling, that I began to think that after a little such training I should be able to sleep at the mouth of a cannon. At last, in desperation, I got up and dressed, and at 8.30 emerged from my cabin and made acquaintance with our skipper. Wednesday morning found us speeding along at a fine rate, and we expected to be at Plymouth by the next day ; but the treacherous wind suddenly fell and left us becalmed off the Isle of Wight.

The weather was glorious and the view lovely, but we failed to appreciate it as hour after hour went by and we swayed to and fro on the placid water. The next day, however, the wind awoke, and, with all sail set, our ship flew over the water, and on Friday night, just at the time we were advertised to leave Plymouth, we arrived, and let go the anchor. The next morning before breakfast the mail bag was brought on board. How those letters were en joyed ! all the more because they were the last we should have for three months. Most of the passengers landed for a few hours, but by 4 p.m. all were on board, and we were once more under way. The next day was occupied in settling in and making the acquaintance of those of our passengers who had but lately joined us, and we easily fell into the routine of life on ship-board.

The hours for meals were rather inconveniently close to gether, thus allowing the sea air no chance of giving us an appetite — breakfast being at nine, tiffin at twelve, dinner at four, tea at seven, and sandwiches and biscuits at half-past nine. Lights had to be put out in the saloon at ten o'clock, and passengers were obliged to extinguish theirs at half-past ; a most irksome and tantalising regulation, especially on moonlight nights in the Tropics, when we should have liked to have stayed later on deck. We unfortunately found at first some occupants of our cabin who, I feel sure, did not pay any passage money ! otherwise our quarters were most comfortable, and as time went on, the ac commodation they afforded seemed to increase and be come even extensive. On the second Sunday out we were again becalmed, the sea really looking like a sheet of glass, and some black specks were discerned upon the water, very suggestive of turtles.

The Captain gave orders for one of the boats to be lowered that an attempt might be made to catch some — no easy matter, as when visible, they are asleep upon the water ; but imme diately they are disturbed and become aware of danger, sink out of sight and reach. Cautiously keeping to windward of them, however, the men contrived to catch two, over which there was great rejoicing. Just about this time our nights were by no means sacred to sleep ; the wind being so light" the ship had to be ' bouted ' very b often, one night even as many as four times. This was a very lively ceremony, the machine used giving forth the most excruciating sounds. On fine evenings the phos phorescent appearance of the sea was most beautiful. Numbers of fish followed the ship one day, the sailors call them Albachors ; they are about the size of small cod, but with beautiful coloured scales.

The gentle men tried to hook some, but were so long making their arrangements that only one remained, and that one ' didn't see the fun,' as the Captain said. We also saw lots of Mother Carey's chickens, and the gentlemen made strenuous efforts to catch them with black thread, but only succeeded in entangling themselves. The time passed swiftly away, for with work, reading, writing, music, cards, quoits, and croquet the hours could scarcely drag heavily. The sailmaker made us our croquet balls of cork covered with leather, flat top and bottom ; and with the wickets fixed into holes in the deck, the game was not only possible but very enjoyable in the long bright evenings. One afternoon one of our fellow-passengers asked some of us to a kettledrum in her cabin. We went and found everything most snug and comme il faut.

A little Etna stood in the wash hand bason, the tea things on the chest of drawers, and the hostess was seated on a box ready to do the honours of the occasion. Our officers and midshipmen were most kind and pleasant, the third officer, a very funny fellow, reminding one of a soda-water bottle with the cork just drawn, for he was in a perpetual state of effervescent nonsense and continually perpetrating the most horrible jokes. On the 6th we had a head wind, which made our vessel roll miserably ; we could scarcely get dressed for dinner, being alternately sent almost flying out of the port and then back against our berths ; and these excursions, combined with the laughing they caused, rather hindered our toilet. P'rom that time till the end of our journey the fiddles, as the contrivances for keeping the crockery on table are called, were almost always in use at meals.

It was a difficult matter, too, to avoid being sent out of one's berth, and I was rather like a chrysalis in a card box, as I could by no means contrive to fix myself so as to prevent rolling on to my nose. The heat now began to be great, the thermometer in my cabin standing at 78° in the morning when the port had been open all night. We were not able to sight Madeira, being obliged to take too westerly a course. This was a disappointment. August 1 3th we came in sight of Palma, one of the Canary Islands, but it was so distant it only looked like a cloud on the horizon. The dampness of the atmo sphere was most peculiar, especially in the evening — everything was as wet on deck as if a sharp shower of rain had just fallen, and our clothes hung limp about us. August 16th was a day of calm, the night having been the very reverse, during which I had been kept awake from fear of falling out of my berth, while through the open door of the cabin, left so on account of the great heat, came a full chorus of noises caused by the creaking of the mizenmast, together with that of the swing trays and the jingling of tumblers and glasses innumerable.

We were in the veritable tropics, and dolphins were following in the wake of the ship looking like moving rainbows. On the 17th we were off the Cape Verd islands, and the weather was oppressively hot, reminding us forcibly of Sidney Smith's impossible desire to ' take off his flesh and sit in his bones.'* Active ex ercise was out of the question, and one sometimes felt too hot even to think. The evenings were lovely, there being a full moon. On the 20th the wind got up again, and the ship recommenced her sort of intoxicated walk through the waters, making us look at one another dubiously, and preventing us from doing full justice to the meals, though I must do everyone the credit to say that they did not actually disgrace themselves as sailors. We had left the region of North-East Trade Winds, and were now subject to squalls, light showers, uncertain winds, and other disagreeables of that sort.

One of the steerage passengers had caught a flying fish, which we bought of him and had it cooked. I tasted a morsel, and found it most delicious. On the 21st we had rain, and plenty of it — a tropical shower in good earnest. The sailors were soon busy, hurrying to and fro with buckets to catch the rain water. The ducks and geese were let out on the quarter deck to enjoy a run and bath. They seemed thoroughly to know what our intensions were towards them, and were not slow in making use of their advantages. HaviDg been penned up for a month, this sudden piece of good luck must have been almost more than they could realise. After this followed an uneventful time, our progress being very slow, as what wind there was was foul, making the Captain rather savage. On the 26th there was a vessel in sight, beating about in the same helpless way as ourselves, waiting for the favourable breeze which did not come ; and on the 28th a homeward bound vessel passed us, but not near enough to ' signalise,' much less to send letters by her.

That same day, too, we crossed the Line, though without feeling any bump ! The old practical jokes which sailors used to play on these occasions upon the poor unfortunate passengers are now very much restricted, and the gentlemen on board our ship had therefore to undergo a very mild edition. Two more vessels passed in sight homeward bound, and with them fled our last chance of sending letters — a grievous disappointment. Then came days of somewhat rough weather with sudden squalls. Much amusement was caused by the way our things would persist in slip ping about, notwithstanding the praiseworthy efforts we made to lash them or wedge them securely, and many an excursion did we make unwittingly into cabins not our own. August 31st we passed a vessel close enough to signal her — to most of us a novel and interesting sight.

We made out her name to be ' Wheatlandside,' of Glasgow, going from Cardiff to Aden with a cargo of coals, and of 1,090 tons register. We gave our name and destination, and wished them a safe and pleasant voyage, to which they replied, 'Thank you.' Each vessel then hoisted the ensign, and having dipped it three times the conversation ended. Among other pastimes on board I learned to box the compass, the names of all the sails, and even tried my hand at sail-making. September 7th there were several whales disporting themselves at some distance from the ship, but too far for us to see much more than their clumsy gambols in the spray that was dashed up. We were then out of the Tropics, and 24° 55" south of the Line. About this time the Southern Cross became visible, the Pointers having heralded its rising some time before.

I was much disappointed with it, but I believe this is the general feeling of travellers. I consider it an insignificant constellation in comparison with Orion and the Great Bear. It does not form by any means a perfect cross, nor are any of the stars of the first mag nitude. September 8th it blew half a gale, and gave us some experience of rough weather. We had such fun, much more than the sailors, I expect ; but, as we told them, they could hardly believe how nice it was from our reserved seats in the saloon to look out on the spirited scene before us. How I wish I could describe it ! The sailors, rigged in their tarpaulins, reefing and furling GOVERNMENT HOUSE AND GROUNDS, ADELAIDE. sails and hauling ropes, but every now and then pausing to hold on while a wave came sweeping over their heads and the main and quarter decks like a huge waterfall.

They could scarcely get about, the lurching of the ship and the slipperiness of the decks making locomotion very difficult. Most of them resigned themselves to skating, and the gracefulness of their gyrations called forth much laughter. After dinner the weather cleared sufficiently for the ladies to go up on deck, the rain abating, though the wind was still high. We arrived in time to see a gloriously stormy sunset, all grey and gold, and a beautiful rainbow. We stayed till tea time, holding on for dear life, or like grim death, whichever you please, watching the waves come rolling towards the ship's stern like moving mountains. September 10th. Such a night as we had of it ! the wind being aft, the ship rolled dreadfully, and the con sequences were most unpleasant. I think there is a poem which says ' night is the time for rest,' but at any rate it does not hold good at sea.

It appeared to me that we only went to bed to work hard at keeping in our berths, and to indulge in a few athletic sports by way of amusement. Dressing in the morning was a most ludicrous accomplishment, resulting in a feeling of soreness and aching decidedly unpleasant. A flock of Cape pigeons was following the ship ; they are about as large as sea gulls, black and white in colour ; the breasts are entirely white, and they have long beaks. I was astonished to find that birds caught at sea suffer from sickness immediately they come on deck. By this time we were experiencing cold weather, the thermometer falling daily, and should have been glad of a cheerful fire, also the pleasant exercise of walking on deck to warm ourselves, but that was impossible, the weather being so squally. Sunday, the 13th, was memorable as affording us the great treat of a sight of land, the Island of Tristan da' Cunha.

At 5 a.m. the Captain tapped at my cabin door and called out ' Land ahead ! ' I hurried on deck and was greeted with the very keenest of south-west winds, equivalent to a north-easter in England. The land was still some distance off, but looked beautiful in the early morn. The sun had not yet risen, a grey mantle wrapped everything round, and heavy masses of cloud like white curtains stretched down to the horizon. About eight o'clock we came under lee of the land, and the Captain gave orders to stand by and see if the inhabitants would put off to us. For some time we waited, but as it seemed in vain, till, through a tele scope, we could discern that they were manning boats. Now I will put down as much as I know of this island and its strange little company of settlers, severed as they are from the outside world.

They number about eighty-two all told, and comprise fourteen families. There used to be a Governor, Mr. Glass by name, but he is dead, so the oldest inhabitant, Peter Green, who has been there forty years, is now the chief. They possess cattle, and succeed in raising potatoes and other vegetables. They also grow apples, figs, and peaches. Penguins are plentiful, and many kinds of fish, but for flour, tea, sugar, coffee, tobacco, rice, clothes, and many other necessaries of life, they depend upon passing ships, for which they keep a sharp look out, and when, as often happens, there are long intervals between these visits, their stock becomes very low and sometimes even exhausted. The passengers contributed whatever they could spare, such as clothes, writing-paper, tapes, buttons, cottons, playing cards, books, newspapers, scented soap, __c, and the Captain gave some of the ships' stores, getting in exchange four sheep, some geese, potatoes, and a quantity of eggs, mostly penguins', and last, but not least, a little pig possessed of very good lungs.

Peter Green's daughter was about to be married, and the bridegroom elect, who was one of the number who came off to the ship, was anxious to get some scented soap and a bottle of eau de cologne as gifts for his bride. Newspapers they are always glad of. A few years ago a gentleman subscribed a sum of money for a clergyman to be sent to them for five years ; now they conduct worship in one another's houses occasionally, but for marriages, christenings, &c, they secure the services of a clergyman from a passing vessel. They appear not to care to see the world, some having been as far as the Cape in a whaler, but preferring to return. There are three other islands near but uninhabited. Two Germans landed on one called the ' Inaccessible,' and remained for some time, but were afterwards taken off by a vessel.

The Tristan da' Cunhas tried to persuade them to come over to their island, and even built houses for their accommodation, but in vain. The news of the Germans having left only reached them subsequently through an English newspaper. The island is very rocky, rising precipitously from the sea to the height of 3,000 feet, and attaining in one part to 8,000 feet. The summit is covered with snow till late in the spring. The circumference is so small that a man can walk round it in one day. On the evening of the 13th we had the most ex quisite sunset I have ever seen, and afterwards moonlight clear enough to see to read by — and small print, too. The run in the past twenty-four hours had only been twenty-one miles, and the second officer told me that in the night the ship would scarcely steer at all, but went all round the points of the compass.

About this time we began to get up charades and concerts for our amusement, and they proved creditable considering our slender resources. Wednesday, 22nd, we were off the Cape, and that night it blew half a gale, and we had a rare time of bumping and jerking. The sailors' quarters were filled with water sufficient to float their chests, the anchor weighing two tons was moved seven or eight inches, and the skylight on the forecastle was washed away. The second class passengers on the weather side had their cabins flooded. On Sunday, October 3rd, we caught a shark, a small one, about six or seven feet long. I was up on deck to see the sport. The bait was a piece of pork weighing about 4 lbs., which he managed to swallow without getting hooked, so another piece was supplied and that proved successful.

The men then threw loops of rope round him especially to make sure of his tail, and hauled him up on the deck, where everyone took care to give him a wide berth. It was an ugly looking fish, and one telt anything but anxious to have a rencontre with him. With shouts of triumph he was drao-o-ed down to the main deck, and his tail cut off. His heart, which was still beating, was shown to me some hours after, and, according to sailors' belief, would continue to beat till sun-down. Some of the fish was cooked for dinner, and I tasted it, much to the astonish ment of the other ladies. It was tender as plaice, but rather strong in flavour. The greatest storm we experienced was on Friday, October 8th. For several days the barometer had been so remarkably low that the Captain had his forebodings, nevertheless the gale was not so heavy as we had feared it would be, though quite bad enough for us.

All sails but three were taken in, and the ship hove to for several hours. Without these precautions our bulwarks would most probably have been carried away, and the saloon filled with a green sea. On the following night our list of passengers was increased, a little girl being added to the number. Friday, 15th, we began to feel something like school children at the end of a term, for we were within a few days of landing, and excitement ran high. Heaving the log was almost as anxious an operation as taking the temperature of a sick person, and the Captain was plied with endless questions as to when we might arrive. The usual sweepstake was got up among the passengers. The next day, Saturday, we reached the Semaphore and let go the anchor. There we were obliged to remain for the night, and until four o'clock in the afternoon of the next day.

A boat came off to us, however, bringing our pilot and some friends of the passengers, also a bundle of newspapers, from which I eagerly gathered English news. It was quite strange to think how the world had kept on wagging, notwithstanding we had been, as it were, out of it ! We went to bed but not to sleep, I especially having my mind full of speculations as to what kind of reception I should have from those to whom I took letters of introduction, and what friends I might make during my sojourn on that side of the globe. Of introductions I had a goodly number, and many of them to influential people in Adelaide. I had also received from the friends of my friend and fellow passenger a hearty invitation to stay with them for a time until I should be able to mature my plans. I felt this to be particularly kind as I was a perfect stranger to them ; nor was their goodness merely tem porary, for they made me use their house as mv head quarters during the three months I remained in Adelaide, and loaded me with kindness.

We rose early the next morning, hoping to be able to go into port directly, but found to our chagrin that the tide would not allow of our doing so till late in the afternoon. Not till 8 p.m. did we really land, and as our friend's house was at some distance, it was 10.30 before we reached it at the end of a long, wearisome, and exciting day. It seemed quite strange to be once more on terra firma, with some thing else around us than the monotony of sea and sky that we had experienced for so many weeks.

Chapter II. Adelaide

Adelaide is situated about eight miles from the sea, with a range of hills in a semicircle, making a pretty back ground, Mount Lofty, 3,000 feet high, being the principal peak. From the summit on a clear day it is possible to see over a distance of eighty miles of beauti ful country washed by the ocean's waves ; and the drive up reminds one a little of Switzerland — but a miniature likeness of course — the roads winding round the spurs of the hills, with lovely gullies between, and command ing splendid views at every turn. When I saw them, as it was early spring, they were green with verdure ; but before I left, nature's coat had been turned into a rusty brown by the scorching rays of the summer's sun. Down in the gullies the lovely maiden-hair and many other ferns grow wild in great profusion.

The port is an uncomfortable place, dreadfully muddy in winter and blindingly dusty in summer, the Australian snow, as it is called, being blown from a long low line of sand hills which skirt the shore. The city exceeded my expectations, possessing as it does many wide streets and good buildings. It was laid out ADELAIDE. 17 by an old Waterloo officer, recommended by the Duke of Wellington. There is a fine Post Office and Town Hall, and the Government Buildings, Club House, and Banks put in a very creditable appearance. It is astonishing how much the suburbs have grown and stretched out on all sides of the town ; but of course these money-making people like their out of town residences, and being proverbially averse to walking anywhere, no doubt they think it more worth while to go well out of town than but a short distance.

The roads leading out into the suburbs are well kept by a road board, money being voted for the purpose from the public revenues. Most of the houses are built all on one floor, with verandahs running right round them, and look very pretty nestled down among the trees. The plan of having no stairs is most charmingly lazy and agreeable. Churches and chapels of every denomination sur round one on all hands of every size and style; and if the power religion has over people is to be judged by the number of sacred edifices they contrive to raise, the Adelaideans must be a pious people indeed. There being no State patronage, each sect stands on an equal footing with the rest, and is self-supporting. The Con gregationalists and Wesleyans appear to have the greater number of adherents and build the finest churches.

The climate is changeable, it being no uncommon thing for one to be able to bear very light clothing at one part of the day, and to require a change to quite c winterly garments at another, from the fickle wind shifting round to the south or south-west, which in that quarter of the globe is equivalent to our north or north-east. The Eucalyptus, or gum tree, of which there are several kinds, the white, the red, the blue, and others, is the tree of the country. The foliage has a very pretty effect from a distance, being tipped with a golden brown, but soon grows wearisome to the eye, being almost entirely unrelieved by any other kind. One longs for the varied tints of an English landscape. The leaves are narrow and pointed, and grow edgewise on the stems, and when crushed in the hand give forth a faint but delicious odour.

The native cherry differs from ours both in leaf and fruit, the latter being very small, with the stone growing outside, and having but little flavour. Fruit is so plentiful that it is thought little of, and often wantonly wasted. Vines grow out of doors, and orange, lemon, and citron tress perfume the air with the delicious scent of their flowers, or bow beneath the weight of the golden fruit. It is quite a pleasure to see with what enjoyment everything seems to grow, and people often prefer to leave their gardens very much to mother nature's sweet free will ; one strong reason for this being, that labour is scarce and dear. In some are beautiful almond tree walks, and groves of lemon, citron, and orange trees, on the latter us which one can see both flowers and fruit at the same time. ADELAIDE. 19 Flowers, such as azaleas, camellias, the india rubber plant, and the like, that must be nursed with such care in conservatories and hothouses in our cold and ungenial climate, are to be seen flourishing in the open air in that sunny land, while aloes grow wild, and arum lilies are so common they are often plucked up as weeds.