The Alhambra and the Kremlin. The South and the North of Europe

Front matter

THE GENERALIFFE. THE Alhambra and the Kremlin. THE SOUTH AND THE NORTH OF EUROPE. BY SAMUEL IRENÆUS PRIME, AUTHOR OF " TRAVELS IN EUROPE AND THE EAST." NEW YORK: ANSON D. F. RANDOLPH & COMPANY, 770 Broadway. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1873, by ANSON D. F. RANDOLPH AND COMPANY, In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. ■Giabsry of £)rr&» of ROBERT RUTTEK, JOHN WILSON AND SON, Cambridge. 82 and 84 Beekman St., New Vor h. Tn MRS. E'LOUISA L. PRIME THIS VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED. The South ancl the North of Europe are contrasted in this volume. Not by any formal comparison of the morals and manners, the institutions and condition of the peoples in different latitudes, but by candid statement and description, I have sought to give a fair view of life as it is in Spain and Scandinavia.

Since the journey was made, the Queen of Spain has fled, and the Emperor of France has perished from among men. But the social life of the nations remains the same from age to age.

Preface

. The Alhambra is a type of the South. The Kremlin is a symbol of the North. Both of them are fortresses enclosing palaces: the glory of Spain in ruins, the pride of the North in its strength and beauty. Vague and indefinite ideas of these wonderful edifices, and of the countries they represent, have been entertained by many, who may find in these pages pictures of things as they are, which the writer trusts are faithful and portable. The Generaliffe Frontispiece. Bridge, Gateway, and Cathedral of Burgos 16 The Cid 17 The Escorial 22 The Royal Palace, Madrid 40 Toledo 54 The Alcazar 59 Cordova 82 Court of Oranges, Cordova 87 The Great Mosque, Cordova 89 " La Geralda," Seville 93 She wept and told her Beads . 96 The Bull-Fight 101 The Picador 106 In the Alameda, at Malaga 118 The Diligence 125 Outer Wall of the Alhambra 130 Portion of a Door , 138 The Vermilion Tower 142 The Alhambra '56 Geneva and the Rhone '66 Merle d'Aubignd 167 D'Aubignd's Birthplace and Residence 169 Lausanne, and the Lake of Geneva '71 X LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGH Castle of Chillon '73 The Lake and City of Geneva r75 Cathedral and Platform at Berne 1°2 On the Lake of Thun l84 Pilatus, Lake of Lucerne '9° Monument to the Swiss Guard. (By Thorvaldsen) 195 Tell's Chapel, Lake of Lucerne 198 Swiss Horn Blowers 211 Peasants of Eastern Switzerland ■' 212 Female Costumes in Appenzell . . 217 Death of the Chamois 231 On the Rhine 241 Aix-la-Chapelle 245 Frankfort Dining-Table 269 Polish Peasants 283 Scene at Railway Station 294 A Rauiy Day in a Russian City 309 Street Scene in a Russian City 315 A Russian Porter 321 The Kremlin 331 Plan of the Centre of Moskva City 335 The Russo-Greek Service 342 Helsingfors 383 Stockholm Steamers 396 Upsala 4'3 Costumes of Sweden 421 Roxen Locks 435 Travelling in Carioles in Norway 457 Palace of Frederiksberg 462 A Domestic Scene in Denmark 469 Fagade of the Thorvaldsen Museum, Copenhagen 471 Portrait of Thorvaldsen. (By Horace Vernet) .... ... 473 Hamburg 480 Home Again Page CONTENTS

Chapter I. Granada

Lodgings at the Alhambra. — Restoration. — Webs of Falsehood. — The Sierra Nevada Mountains. — Fruits. — Progress of the Peasantry. — The Moors. — Adam's Visit to Spain. — Expulsion ofthe Moors. — Decline of the Empire. — Railroads. — Mines. — Early Settlers. — Iberians. — Phœnicians. — Goths. — Moors. — Waning of the Crescent. — Capture of Cordova. — Flight of the last Moorish King I

Chapter II. Out Of France Into Spain

— THE BASQUE PROVINCES. Biarritz. — Chateau Eugenie. — Dangerous Coast. — Breakwater. — The Virgin's Partiality. — Btathing Grounds. — Couriers. — Antanazio. — His Honesty and Zeal. — Crossing the Boundary. — Island of Conference. — Spanish Courtesy. — The Basque Provinces. — Peculiar Customs. — Ancestry. — The Language. — Spanish Stupidity. — La Fayette. — St. Sebastian. —Duke of Wellington's Sack of the City. — Bull-ring. — Likeness of the Country to Switzerland. — Physique of the Inhabitants. — Productions. — Industries. — Primogeniture. — Tolasa. — Vittoria. — Wellington's Victory. — Miranda. — Roderick, the last King of the Goths 6

Chapter III. Burgos

— THE ESCORIAL. A sleepy Town. — Origin of the Name. — Fusion of the Crowns of Leon and Castile. — The Coffer of the Cid. — Swindling a Jew. — Moorish Lies. — Hotels. — A Change of Base. — The Cathedral. — Statues. — Carvings. — Verdict of Charles V. and Philip II. — Devil beating the Railroad. — Carving by Nicodemus. — Miracles. — Castle. — Engineer hoisted by his own Petard. — Burgos Taverns. — Philip II. His Character. CONTENTS. — Conception of a Palace, Monastery, and Tomb. — The Escorial. — Dimensions. — St. Lawrence. — Turning-point of his Life. — Description ofthe Palace. —Death of Philip II. — Mausoleum.— The Segrario. — A toe-tal Loss. — Cellini Crucifix. — Library JS

Chapter IV. Madrid

— A SABBATH -AND A CARNIVAL. A polyglot Valet. — Missionary Schools. —Foreign Chaplains. — The Church Militant. — Upper Chamber. — Religious Intolerance. — Inquisition. — Persecution. — Spanish Sabbath. — Devotion. — Infidelity. — The Prado. — Bull-ring. — Wine Shops. — Frolicking. — Dancing. — Cheap Wines. — Carnival. — Costumes. — Politeness. — Maskers. — - Ancient Belle. — Hobbling Monk. — Pope. — Natural Goose. — Devil. — Orang-outang. — General Abandon. — Religion and Folly. — Good Humor 29

Chapter V. Madrid

— PALACE BANK. — PICTURE-GALLERY. Napoleon's Epigram. — Royal Palace. — Cavalry. — Military Parade. — Plains of Castile. — Armory. — Swords of Gonzalo de Cordova, Ferdinand, and Charles V. — Armor of Boabdil. — Revolvers. — Mighty Men of War. — Toledo Blade. — Stables. — Spanish Horses. — Merino Sheep. — Royal Equipage. — Crazy Jane's Carriage. — Her Effigy. — Mischievous Display. — French Language and Influence. — Slow Coaches. — Cheap Labor. — Architecture. — Banking-house. — Bank of Spain. — Rtepose of Manner. — Gold at last. — Railroads. — Post-office. — Personal Identity. — Rebel General. — Lost Letters. — Telegraphs. — Progress- — Picture-gallery. — The Immaculate Conception. — Vibion of St. Bernard. — Christ sinking under his Cross. — Equestrian Portrait of Charles V. — Titian. — Correggio. — Mary in the Garden. — Bias del Prado. — Hidden Gems. — Murillo. — Material and Ideal Art 39

Chapter VI. Toledo

— ITS FLEAS, LANDLORDS, ANTIQUITIES, AND LUNATICS Progress. — Hotel Lino. — The wicked Flea. — Easy Manners. — Breakfast. — Model Landlord and Waiters. — Toledo Butter. CONTENTS. XIII — City set on a Hill. — Monuments of departed Peoples. — Romance. — Architecture. — Oldest City in the World. — Mythic Founders. — Perfidy of Roderick. — Reign of the Archbishops. — Decline of Power and Glory. — Cathedral. — Descent of the Virgin. — A fair Penitent. — Orthodoxy ofthe Priesthood. — Burning of the Missals. — The Muzarabe The dead Lion better than a living Dog. — Eloquent Epitaph. — Honors paid the Virgin. — The Alcazar. — Derivation of Mango. — Spanish Pride. — Peacocks. — Foreign Impres sions. — Moorish Gates. — San Juan de los Reyes. — Thank offerings. — St. Florinde. — Cave of Hercules. — Legend of the Cid. — Cafe. — Toledo Blades. — Virtues of the Tagus. — Sword of Boabdil. — Lunatic Asylum. — Don Quixote. — Crazy Editors. — Statistics. — Causes of Insanity. — Spanish Slowness and Temperance. — Sophomores 53

Chapter VII. La Mancha

— ANDALUSIA. Smoking. — Cigarettes at Dinner. — Taking Sanctuary. — Retort. — Tobacco Culture. — Cuban Monopoly. — Chewing tabooed. — Early Smoking. — Children and Ladies Tobacco Factory. — Cigareras. — Flavored Cigars. — Potash. — Soda. — Opium. — Intemperate Clergyman. — La Mancha. — Don Quixote. — Treeless Landscape. — Sheep Corn. — Primitive Ploughing. — Husbandry. — Primogeniture. — Lands of Church and Crown. — Agricultural Schools. — Periodicals. — Sierra Morena Mountains. — Cautious Engineer. — Manzibar. — Pickled Chicken. — Moving on. — Perfumes of Arabia. — Resting-place. — Transatlantic Indigestion. — Andalusia. — Ignorance and Crime. — Government Education. — Statistics. — Salamanca. — Influence of Climate. — Population. — The Aloe and Olive. — Oranges and Lemons. — Hills of Andalusia. — Sheep 69

Chapter VIII. Cordova

Cleanliness. — Paved Streets. — Bridge over the Guadalquiver. — Age of the City. — Wholesale Butchery. — Government.— Mosques. — Baths. — Inns. — Schools. — Library. — Rural Fete. — Departed Glory. — Palace of Abdurhama. — Beautiful Evergreens. — Fruits. — Interior of an Ancient House. — Moorish Style. — Cathedral. — Converted Mosque. — Gate of CONTENTS. XIV Pardon Court-yard.— Orange Grove.— Fountains. — Gold Fish. — Elders in the Gate. — The Mecca of Europe. — Holy Shrine. — Symbolism. — Indulgences. — Bronze Orna ments. — Inscription in Gothic and Arabic. — Dimensions. — Precious Stones. — The Mihrab.— The Kalif's Oratory. — Mosaics. — Devout Mussulmans. — Chapels. — Etching on Stone. — Impressive Monuments 83

Chapter IX. Seville, Its Cathedral And Bull-fights

Delicious Climate. — Customs. — Exile of the Moors. — Consequent Decay. — The Alcazar. — Barbaric Splendor. — A Christian Kingdom. — Cathedral. — A House of God. — Giant Columns. — High Mass. — Unconscious Worshipper. — Beautiful Women. — Venus-worship. — Port of Saville. — Fruits. — Don Juan. — Barber of Seville. — Murillo's House. — Mosaics — .Moorish Castle. — Auto-da-fi- — The Quema daro. — Field of St. Sebastian. — Circulation of the Bible — . Tower of Gold. — Treasure House. — Prison. — Bins of Gold. — Decline and Fall of Spain. — Demoralizing Influences. — Corruption and Robbery. — Yellow Fever. — Guadalquiver. — Amphitheatre. — A Delicate Lady. — Warlike Husband. — Her Description of a Bull-fight — The Ring. — Spectators. — Trumpet-blast. — Picadors. — Entrance of the Bull. — Charge. — Horseman — Terrible Sight. — Chulos. — Ban derilleros. — Squibs. — Matador. — Applause. — The Ladies. — Different Tastes. — Squeamish Husband 92

Chapter X. Seville

La Caridad. — Art Treasures. — St. John. — Miracle of the Loaves and Fishes — Moses striking the Rock. — Recovery of Pictures at Waterloo. — French Thieves. — Venus de Medici. — Thoughtful Amateur. — Museum Fees. — Guardian Angels of Seville. — Martyrdom. — Murillo's Pages of the Gospel. — Old Masters. — Decay of Art. — Bull-fighting. — The Season. — Exaggeration. — Curious Development. — Effect on the National Character. — Street-plays. — Feats. — Demoralization. — Spanish Pride. — Morality. — Contrast between the North and South of Europe. — Costume of Andalusia. — Fashion. — Life of the People. — Price of Labor. — CONTENTS. XV 107 Food. — Climate. — Beer. — Wine cheaper than Water. — Sack. — Intemperance. — Physical Circumstances. — Social Bur dens — Beautiful Trait. — Obedience. — Veneration ofthe Aged

Chapter XI. Malaga

An ill Wind that blows no Good. — Curious Excuse for Crime. — Old World like the New. — Resort for Invalids. — Genial Clime. — Range of Thermometer. — Mineral Waters — Sunshine. — Rainfall. — Heavenly Skies. — Advice to Consumptives. — Grapes. — Raisins. — Wine and Oil. — A Sabbath. — Service at the British Consulate. — Mrs. Partington. — English Chaplain. — -Sermon. — Narrow Streets. — Sweet Memories of Cologne. — Picturesque Moors. — Cathedral. — High Mass. — Florid Architecture. — Fruits. — Prayer ofa Dying Moor. — Florinde. — Chronicles of Washington Irving. — Luxuries of Travel. — Diligences. — Out of Malaga. — Obstinate Mules. — Night. — Mountains. — Setting Sun. — Lovely Scenery. — Orchards. — Armed Guards. — Gentlemen of the Road. — Loja. — Inn. — Flock of Fleas. — A Stimulant. — Setting out for Granada. — Santa Fe'. — Its History. — Granada at Last. — In the Grounds of the Alhambra .... 118

Chapter XII. The Alhambra

The Paradise of tbe West. — Rivers of Eden. — New Damascus. - Granada. — Origin of tbe Name. — Fruits. — Mountains. — Skies. — Moorish Empire broken. — Zawi Ibu Zeyri. — Alhambra. — Meaning ofthe Name. — Extension ofthe Castle. — Original Grandeur. — Its first Prince. — His Improvements. — Roads. — Colleges. — Hospitals. — Canals. — Arts. — Sciences. — Degeneracy. — Intrigues and Murders. — Ruin. — Final Overthrow of Mooiish Power. — Ferdinand and Isabella. — Columbus. — Fleas and Cake. — Blessing and Gold — New World in the West. — Bookstore. — Irving's Tales. — Gate of Judgment. — Plateau. — Desolation. — Court of Myrtles. — Court of Lions. — Boabdil. — Abencerrages. — Treachery. — Hall of Ambassador. — Bensaken. — Walking Cyclopedia. — Prudence. — Washington Irving. — Dolores. — Queen's Garden. — Hall of Two Sisters. — Harem. — Lindaraka Gardens. , — Queen's Dressing-room. — Gypsies. — Perfume Bath. — Water Bath. — Governor's Court. — Bowed Slab. — The Morning Star CONTENTS. I5S

Chapter XIII. The Alhambra

(continued). The poor Cobbler of Granada. — Spanish Rule of Living. — Xan- .tippe. — Search for Gold. — Messenger Dove. — Dreams. — Landslip. — Fever cured. — Conversion. — The Watch Tower. Magic Bell. — Parapanda Mountains. — Reign of Law. — Gift to the Duke of Wellington. — Bloody Pass. — Vega. — Water Gates. — The Last Sigh of the Moor. — His Mother's Reproof. — Moorish Race. — Political Prisoners. — Birthplace of Eugenic. — The GeneralirT;. — Ancijnt Tree. — Suspected Queen. — Women of Spain. — Sins of Climate 144

Chapter XIV. Granada

Troubadour and Gypsy Life. — Dwarf. — Horse. — Fair. — Physique ofthe Gitanas. — Habits. — Habitations. — Moral Principle. Chastity. — Swindling. — Superstition. — Fortune-tellers. — Credulity. — Trickery. — Parisian Spiritualist. — Gypsy Creed. — Musings. — Causes of Astonishment. — Paintings and Cathedrals. — Unworthy Ambition. — Silence in Church. — Cathedral of Granada. — Chapel Royal. — Tomb of Ferdinand and Isabella. — Tomb of Philip and Crazy Jane. — Obliging Priest. — Fees. — Leaving Granada. — Disguised Thief. — Seizure and Imprisonment. — Out of Granada . .

Chapter XV. Geneva

— FREYBURG. — BERNE Geneva. — Color ofthe Rhone. — Cæsar's Wall. — Cathedral. — Calvin. — Lady Jane Grey. — Rousseau. — Voltaire. — Madame de Stael. — Byron. — Jura. — Mont Blanc. — Celebrities. — Coppet. — Ninon. — St. Protais. — Lisus. — Morges. — Grand Muveran. — Diablerets. — Mont Rosa. — Mont Blanc. — Lausanne. — St. Anne. — Sacred Rat. — Catliedral. — Convention of Reformers. — Gibbon. — Classic Ground. — Chillon. — Bonnivard. — Torture Chamber. — Hotel Byron. — Railroad. — Ice. — Swiss Valleys. — Freyburg. — Suspension Bridge. — Great Organ. — Cathedral. — Wonderful Music: its Power and Sweetness. — Berne. — Morat. — Burgundian Custom. — Public Bears. — Unfortunate Englishman. — Curious Clock Market Women. — Federal Palace. — Swiss Cantons. — Bernese Alps. — Thun. — Jungfrau igr CONTENTS. XVII

Chapter XVI. The Brunig Pass

— LUCERNE. Pleasant Ride. — Interlaken. — Lakes Thun and Brienz. — Abendberg. — Faulhorn. — Giesback. — Illumination. — Ascent of the Brunig. — Vale of Meyringen. — Falls of Reichenbach Lungern. — Splendid Courage. — Cheap Suffering. — Modern Reformers. — Mount Pilatus. — Myths. — Lucerne. — Population. — St. Leger. — Service. — Crucifix. — A Devotee. — Mass. — Organ. — Cloisters. — Lake Lucerne. — Lion of Lucerne. — Dance of Death. — Striking Scenery. — Gersau. — Brunnen. — Bay of Uri. — Sir James Mackintosh. — Swiss Patriots. — Chapel of Tell. — Cascades. — Fluellen. — Altorf. Captain Lott 186

Chapter XVII. The Black Virgin Of Einsiedeln

— LIFE IN SWITZERLAND, ETC. The Hermit Meinrad. — His Black Virgin. — Murder. — Detective Ravens. — Monastery. — Miracle. — Shrine. — Pilgrims. — Revenue. — A Barefooted Penitent. — Village Church. — Fountain. — Gallery. — Abbot. — Hospitality. — Library. — College. — Monastic Life. — Adieu. — Pleasant Quarters. — Meals. — Hotel Life. — John Bull. — A Charming Couple. — Americans. — A National Feature. — Slang. — Language. — Manners. — An Elegant Lady. — Selfishness. — French and Swiss Railroads. — Improvements. — Accidents. — Accommodations ' 200

Chapter XVIII. Canton Appenzell

— SWISS CUSTOMS. Trogen. — Convent. — Memento mori. — Scenery. — Religion. — German Service. — Curious Custom. — Constance. — Martyrs. — Dividing Line. — Remarkable Change. — Cause. — Pillory. — Evening Bell. — Watchman's Song. — Bridal Custom. — Athletic Sports. — Democracy. — Assembly. — Office Seekers. — Council. — Roads. — Taxation. — Schools. — Foreign Pupils. — Pedestrians. — Moral Culture. — Treatment of Women. — Cows. — Farm Work. — Manufactures. — Mechanics. — God's Acre — Graves. — Funeral Ceremonies. — Simplicity. — Lonely Burial. — Unpleasing Custom. — Costumes. — The Upper Classes. — Refinement and Culture. — Manners. — Patriotism. — A Challenge 212 b CONTENTS.

Chapter XIX. German Watering-places

— BINGEN ON THE RHINE. A German Watering-place. — Land of Salt. — Salt Works. — Last of the Barons. — Homburg. — Kursaal. — Palace. — Gaming. — Kreusnach. — Spas.— Salt Springs.— Cure-house. — Kissingen. — Baths. — Cures. — Long Sledge-ride. — Princess of Mecklenburg. — Clerical Postman. — Whey-cure.— Grape-cure. — Rest. — Rheingraffenstein. — Ebernburg. — Relics of Reformers. — French Cannon Balls. — The Bingen of Poetry. — The Real Bingen. — Bishop Hatto's Tower. — Maiise-thurme. — Southey. — Ehrenfels. — Rudesheimer Vineyards. — Wine-making. — Shallow Soil. — Johannisberg Vineyard. — The Rhine. — Mayence. — Printing. — Guttenberg's Statue. — Cathedral 232

Chapter XX. Pilgrimage To Aix-la-chapelle

Tomb of Charlemagne. — The Dead Emperor. — Cathedral. — Consecration. — Holy Shrine. — Healing Waters. — Palace. — Holy Relics. — Remarkable List. — Septennial Exhibition. — Sultan of Turkey. — Crowd. — Order and Devotion. — Sultan and Suite. — Stolidity. — Priests and Women. — A Crush. — Pageant opened. — Procession. — The Relics. — Puseyite Priest. — On the Road to Rome. — Superstition. — Pictures. — Virgin's Garment. — Modern Style. — Holy Shirt. — Other Relics. — Pilgrims. — - Revenue. — Waters. — Fountain. — Music. — Invalids. — Kurhaus. — Social Ease. — Baths. — Sulphur Water. — Antiquities. — Tower of Granus. — Statue of Charlemagne. — Bust and Skull 245

Chapter XXI. Frankfort

Graveyard. — Childish Plays. — Cheerful Graves. — Grave of Goethe's Mother. — Inscription. — Lovely Sentiment. — Coffin of Goethe. — Wealthy Jew. — Humiliation. — Ancient Glory. — Ariadne. — Elegant Cars. — Smokers. — Pine Forests. — Women's Rights. — Beer Drinking. — A Good Arrangement. — Frankfoit-on-the-Oder. — Krewz. — Dinner. — Gardens. — Scenery. — Nakal. — Bromberg. — Wedges. — Attentive Servant. — Frontier. — Passports. — The Vistula. Poland. — Warsaw 2g. CONTENTS. XIX

Chapter XXII. Warsaw

Historic Legend. — The Jesuits. — Partition. — Last Insurrection. — Nationality crushed out. — Attempted Insurrection. — Defeat. — Warsaw. — Armed Despotism. — Discontent. — Precarious Prosperity. — Russian Rule and Language. — Fate of a Spy. — Consequence Russian Soldiery. — Ill-manners. — Botanical Gardens. — Observatory. — Palace. — Sobieski's Monument. — Grave Error. — Illumination. — Streets. — Drunkenness. — Climate. — Lutheran Church. — Relics of Romanism. — Mendicants. — Jewish Quarter. — Hospital. — War of Religions. — Statue of the Virgin. — Little Russia. — Funeral. — English Cock 273

Chapter XXIII. From Warsaw To St

PETERSBURG. Pretentious Hotel. — Splendid Bridge. — Polite Ticket-seller. — Cars. — Prairie. — Wretched Peasantry. — Jews. — Railroad Employes. — Lapy. — Mother and Son. — Bialystok. — Grodno. — Diet of Poland. — Last King of Poland. — Jewish Holiday. — Lithuania. — Plains. — Napoleon's Hill. — Monument. — Wilna. — Ruins. — Insurrection. — Babel. — Dunaberg. — Captive. — Short Night. — Serfs. — Reform. — Board of Arbitrators. — Emancipation. — Pskof. — Lady Smoker. — St. Petersburg 284

Chapter XXIV. St

PETERSBURG. Searching Process. — Peculiar Costumes. — Rough Streets. — Russian Bath. — Dinner. — Model Guide — Elegant Diction. — Peter the Great. — Catharine I. — Striking Contrasts. — Accommodating Weather. — Palace of the Emperor. — Column of Alexander. — Statue of Peter the Great. — Boy Czars. — Peter's Lawyers. — Devotion. — Cathedral. — Trophies. — Isaac's Cathedral. — Amazing Splendor. — Worship. — Offerings. — Holy of Holies. — Behind the Scenes. — Careful Husbands. — Greek and Romish Churches. — Lent. — Sabbath. — Exorcism. — Honors paid the Virgin CONTENTS. XX 3 = 2

Chapter XXV. Russian Art, Customs, And Manners

Winter Palace. —Ways of Royalty. — Crown Jewels. — Orloff Diamond. — Hermitage. — Art Galleries. — Curious Code of Laws. — Royal Museum. — Peter's Walking-stick. — Art Culture. — Condition of the Masses. — Laborers. — Mechanics. — Prices. — Rent. — Food. — Dress. — Peculiar Custom. — Polite Bankers. — Despot. — Justice. — Verdicts. — Story of LabanorT. — Siberia. — Abuses. — Academy of Science. — Zoological Museum. — Sunset on the Neva. — Boatman. — Light at Eveningtide 310

Chapter XXVI. From St

PETERSBURG TO MOSCOW. American Engineers. — Sleeping Arrangements. — Newspapers. — Drama. — Courtesy. — Lubanskaia — Dinner. — Villages. — The Volga. — Murdered Bishop. — Sleeping Car. — Ladder. — Russian Jargon. — Pathetic Appeal. — Board. — Refreshments. — Greek Ecclesiastic. — Patriarch Nicon New Jerusalem. — Profanity. — Tyranny — Revolt. — Pope of the North. — Emperor's Slight. — Nicon's Humility. — Banishment. — Patriarchates. — Dead Level. — Flight of Freedom .

Chapter XXVII. The Kremlin And The Bells Of Moscow

A Swiss Landlord. — Fleas. — Shrines. — Palaces, Cottages, and Churches. — The Moskva. — Circular City. — Kremlin Walls. — Gates. — Chief Entrance. — Picture of the Redeemer. — Respect. — Cannon. — Miracle. — Splendid Scene. — Tower of Ivan. — Bells. — Medium of Worship. — Holy City. — Pilgrims. — Bellmaking. — Precious Metals. — Silver Bells. — Chapel of the Betrothed. — Music of the Bells 330

Chapter XXVIII. The Churches Of Moscow

Cathedral of the Assumption. — Bones of the Patriarchs. — The Iconastasis. — Sanctuary. — Archbishop's Throne. — Coronation Ceremony. — Tombs. — Cathedral of the Archangel CONTENTS. XXI 359 Michael. —Religious Freedom. —Churches. —Cathedral of St. Basil. — Archangel Cathedral. — Pilgrims. — Golgotha. — Sacristy. — Religion. — Holy Oil. — Baptism. — Making of the Holy Chrism 340

Chapter XXIX. Palace And Institutions Of Moscow

Royal Palace. — Empress's Drawing-room. — Empress's Cabinet.— Hall of St. George. — Hall of St. Andrew. —Gold Court. — Napoleon's Descent. — Treasures. — Historical Curiosities. — Precious Orb. — Foundling Hospital. — Mortality of Foundlings. — Orphan Asylum. — Sheep's Clothing. — Harvest Season. — Jews. — Peasants. — Riding School. — Wax-show. — Ethnological Society. — Travel. — Sydney Smith's Stick 350

Chapter XXX. From Moscow To St

PETERSBURG. Commercial Travellers. — Sparrow Hills. — Church of the Saviour. — Simonoff Monastery. — Novo-Devichi Convent. — The Moskva. — A Holiday. — Napoleon's March. — Borodino. — Evacuation of Moscow. — French Enthusiasm — Triumphal Entry. — Surprise. — Incendiarism. — Return ofthe French. — Horrors ofthe March. — Russian Barbarism. — Public Kissing. — From Moscow to St. Petersburg. — Fussy Ladies. — Klin. — Dinner. — Tver. — Beggars. — Night without Darkness. — The Fussy Ladies again. —Sunrise. — Marriage Customs

Chapter XXXI. Finland

Americans. — Cronstadt. — Fortifications. — Vessels. — Smoking. — Wyborg. — Saw-mills. — Channel. — Ruined Tower. — Submission of Finland. — Religion. — Government. — Harvests. — Famines. — Army. — Wages. — Fens. — Lakes and Islands. — Drosky. — Huge Stones. — Excursion. — Eden in the North.— Serpent in the Garden. —Long Bills. — Attentions paid Strangers. — A Finnish Lady. — Fishermen. — A Killing Man. — Gulf of Finland. — Fredericksham. — Sclava. — Hard Case. — Social Customs CONTENTS.

Chapter XXXII. Finland

(continued). Helsingfors. — Sweaborg. — Fortified Islands. — Society House. — Ducal Palace. — Finnish Gentlemen. — Senate House.— University. — Observatory. — Library. — Literature. — Kalewala. — Schiller and Shakespeare. — Language. — Congress. — Coats of Arms. —Botanical Garden —House of Refreshment.— Health Establishment. — Mineral Fountain —Rocky Islands. — Fishing. — Peasantry. — Abo. — Hotel. — Good Manners. — Castle. — Cathedral. — Tombs. — Conflagration. — Carriole. — Kibitka. — Bondkara. — Finns 383

Chapter XXXIII. Sweden

Harbor of Abo. — Swedish Customs. — Eating and Drinking. — Climate.— The Baltic. — Stockholm. — Porters. — Hotel Rydburg. — Pleasant Quarters. — Scandinavia. — Odin. — Sagas. — Christianity. — Lutheran Religion. — King. — Congress. — Hospital. — Physicians. — Clergymen. — Education. — Religious Toleration. — The Press. — Cost of Living. — Vice. — The Riddarholm's Kyrkan. — Tomb of Gustavus Adolphus. — Reformation. — Royal Palace. — Picture Gallery. — Library. — Codex Aureus. — King of Sweden. — Mimic War. — Standing Army. — Order. — Thieves 394

Chapter XXXIV. Sweden

(continued). Drottningholm. — Lake Malar. — Sigtuna. — Odin. —Superstition. — Pirates. — Rural Life. — Professor Olivecrona — Islands. — Chateau. — Commercial Life. — Manuscripts. — University of Upsala. — Codex Argenteus. — Icelandic Literature. — Standard of Education. — Students. — Costume. — Cathedral. — Statue of Thor. — Old Upsala. — Mora Stone. — Mass Meetings. — Graves of Pagan Deities. — Temple of Odin. — Ancient Tower. — Battle-field of Faith. — Deer Park Restaurant. — Social Customs. — Swedish Homes. — Content. — Moral Progress 409

Chapter XXXV. Sweden

(continued) Steam Canal. — The Oscar. — View of Stockholm. Sodertelje. St. Olas — The Gota Canal. — Castles and Legends. — So- CONTENTS. XXIII derkoping. — Tavern Breakfast. — ■ Sabbath in Sweden. — Church. — Costumes. — Service. — Snuffing and Nasal Sing ing. — Watering-place. — Physician. — College of Health.— Baths. — Mineral Waters. — Emigration. — Lodging and Board 423

Chapter XXXVI. Sweden

(continued). On the Gota Canal again. — Working-girl. — Lake Asplagen. — Swedish Professor. — Lake Roxen. — Berg. — The Vetra-Kloster. — Graveyard. — Tombs of the Douglases. — School-house. — Dinner on the Canal. — Crops. — Lock-keeper. — Lake Boren. — Motala. — Iron-works. — Lake Wetter.— Wadstena. — Pea-crop. — Peasantry. — Labor. — Cold. — Sunset. — Forsvik. — Russian Gentleman. — Lake Wenner Trout. — Falls of Trollhatten. — River. — Unfortunate Sailor. — Collection. — Hongfel Castle. — Gottenburg. — Cheap Lodgings. — Museum. — Daily News. — Training House for Servants. — Philanthropy 433

Chapter XXXVII. Norway

Embarkation. — Breakfast. — Skager-rack and Cattegat. — Freidericksvern. — Christiania. — Hotel du Nord. — Flowers and Fountains. — Stove. — Norwegian Breakfast. — Museum. — Superstition. — Duel of the Girdle. — Bridal Ornaments. — Heathen Relics. — Learning and Letters. — Lake Mjosen. — English Commercial Traveller. — Boat Library. — Sportsmen Church. — Fat Pastor. — Remnants of Popery. — Costumes. — The Lord's Supper. — Service. — Devotion and Reverence. — Oneness of the Church. — Lillehammer. — Cheap Living. — Cripple. — Christiania. — Carriole. — Post Horses and Boys. — Agershaus. — Robin Hood of Norway. — Benevolent Institutions. — Grave of Bradshaw 447

Chapter Xxxviii. Denmark

Skager-rack and Cattegat. — Magnificent Sunset. — Elsinore. — Toll. — House of Tycho Brahe. — Kronborg. — Treaty of Vienna. — Danish Giant. — Fortifications. — Hamlet's Grave. CONTENTS. 462 — True History. — Royal Castle. — Queen of Christian II. — Touching Prayer. — Royal Forest. — Castle of Peace. — Den mark. — Her History. — Valdemar II. — Schleswig-Holstein. — Christianity. — General Intelligence. — Education. — Co penhagen. — Thorvaldsen's Museum. — Statues. — Vanity. — Hall of Christ. — Gems and Bronzes. — Vor Frue Kirke. — Religion and Art. — Church Service. — Baptism. — Love of Amusement. — Theatres. — Public Gardens. — Museum. — Ruins. — Monuments. — South American Gentleman. — Zea land. — Fleas. — Kiel. — Elmshorn. — Home Again . . . I SPAI N.

Chapter I. Granada

TN the grounds of the Alhambra, the ancient palace of the ■*■ Moorish kings of Granada, what time those conquerors of Spain here held their right regal court, I have come to sit down and to rest. My lodgings are just under the walls of the old castle, in sight of its crumbling towers, in hearing of its many falling waters, and under the shadow of its English elms, which the Duke of Wellington gave to Spain. At any moment a few steps take me into the courts and halls and chambers of the Alhambra. In years past, while this pearl of Arab art and Oriental splendor was silently suffered to fall into ruin, with the lapse of centuries, it has been the habit of some travelled authors more addicted to romance than others, to get the easy privilege of sharing lodgings with the bats in some deserted chamber, and they doubtless fancied themselves inspired with the genius of the place, as they dreamed and wrote where fair sultanas with their charms eclipsed the splendors of the fairy place itself.

As it is no part of my purpose to indulge in romance while writing these sketches of the Alhambra and of Spain, and as the walls of a comfortable inn are much more to the taste of a weary traveller than the stone floors and open windows of a tumbling old castle, it is my preference to take up my abode for the present with the good people in the Alhambra Hotel, and not with the keepers of the palace itself. Besides, there is no choice left. The government has undertaken the work of restoring the Alhambra to its pristine beauty, and this process is now going onward under the direction of Sr. Contreras. He has already displayed so much skill in imitating the arabesque decorations of the walls, that only a practised eye perceives the difference when the ancient and the modern art appear in the same chamber.

Architects as well as amateur travellers from all parts of the civilized world, for centuries past, have made artistic and pleasure journeys hither to study and admire the style that has nothing like it except in Spain, and here only where the Moors held sway. And perhaps no work of art in the whole world has been more frequently and fully described than the Alhambra of Granada. History, poetry, and science have tried their several hands upon it. Romance has been so busy with it that it is not an easy task to disentangle the web of fiction, and get the only part of the tale worth knowing. So dear is truth, the simple, naked truth of history, to every true soul, that he is a great doer of evil who seizes upon history, and while professing to write it, weaves into his story the fancies of his own pro lific genius, and that so deftly and so charmingly that the whole is accepted as veritable history, and the romance as the most credible and interesting of the whole.