To the Snows of Tibet through China ... With illustrations and a map

Front matter

TIBET PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE LONDON THE AUTHOR IN CHINESE TRAVELLING DRESS. TO THE SNOWS OF TIBET THROUGH CHINA BY A. E. PEATT, F.E.G.S. GILL MEMORIALIST 189I AUTHOR'S CHINESE NAME WITH ILLUSTRATIONS AND A MAP LONDON LONGMANS, GEEEN, AND CO. AND NEW YORK : 15 EAST 16lh STREET 1892 All rights reserved TO J. H. LEECH, Esq. B.A., F.L.S., F.Z.S., F.R.G.S., &c. A DISTINGUISHED ENTOMOLOGIST THIS VOLUME IS GRATEFULLY DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOR PEEFACE It was not until after my return to Europe that the thought occurred to me of putting the notes of my ex periences in China into the shape of a book, which is now presented to the reader. The work makes no pretension to be anything more than a straightforward, unvarnished account of trips into very little known parts of China and Tibet.

I have avoided, as far as possible, descrip tions of places and scenes which have been previously described, and have also done my best to withstand the temptation to generalise from limited experience, to which travellers in China seem peculiarly liable. I avail myself of this preface to express my deep obligations to many friends who have helped me in one way and another. Especially I would offer my thanks to Mon seigneur Biet, of Ta-tsien-lu, for much kindness on the occasion of both my visits.

Preface

To Lieut. Alexander Cochran, E.N., I also owe my thanks for his assistance in compiling this work from the rough notes of my journeys. Space will not permit me to do more than briefly express my thanks to the three following members of the Consular Service, Messrs. Gregory, Fraser, and Cockburn, late British Resident of Chung-king ; also to the Rev. George Cockburn and Dr. A. Henry of Ichang, Bishop Benjamin, Peres Soulie, Dejean, Mossot, and other fathers ; Mr. Thomas Wood of Messrs. Drysdale, Ringer, & Co., Shanghai, the Rev. Benjamin Ririe, the Rev. Joshua Vale of Kia-ting-fu, and the Rev. John Htkes and Dr. Underwood of Kiu kiang, from all of whom I received great courtesy, and all the help they could give me. A. E. PRATT. 12 Winton Street, Ryde, Isle of Wight : February 26, rA&B 1 14 CONTENTS

Chapter I The

"YANG-TZE AS FAE AS ICHANG Object of journey — Departure from England — Arrival at Shanghai — Kiu-kiang — ' Little Orphan ' — Lu-shan Hills — Flowers — Temples — Rainfall — New snake — Collector bitten — Silver work — Hankow — Passport obtained — Leave for Ichang — Sunday Island — House rented — Cesspool — House-boat hired — San-yutung — Joss-house — New papilio — Perns and plants — Fishermen — Birds and monkeys — -Wild goats — Flying squirrel — Chinese mountaineers — General aspect of glen — Return to Ichang

Chapter II Iohang

Packing collections — Packing-cases — Curiosities — Trade of Ichang — Imports — Communication with Hankow — Missions and missionaries — Festival of New Year — Beggars, their misery and harsh treatment— Procession to pray for rain — Joss-house to bring luck — Golden pheasants — Fish of the Yang-tze — River porpoise — Otters for fishing — Cemetery — The Dome — Floating lamps ........ CONTENTS X PAGE 27 40

Chapter III Expeditions To Chang-yang And Sin-tan Rapid

Want of forest near river — Chang-yang — Journey to— Description of Country — Pigs and leopards— Jungle — Reeves' pheasant — Return to Ichang — Enormous creepers — Soap trees — Ichang Gorge — Pin-san-pa — Mu-tan Rapid— Ta-tung Rapid — Curiously worn rocks —.Crews of large junks— Lu-kan Gorge — Shale — Sin-tan Rapid— Me-tan Gorge —Insults at Sin-tan — Chinese monopoly of steam navigation — Steps up precipices — Nan-too — ' Needle of Heaven ' — Arrival at Ichang

Chapter IV Chang-yang

Preparations for trip to Chang-yang — Hiring coolies — Passport- Start with Dr. Henry — Description of House — Robbery of cash — Collecting Coleoptera — Pony killed by tiger — Tigers common. but no man-eaters — Poisoning tigers — Wild pigs — Boars' tusks offered for sale as tigers' teeth — Deer- -Porcupines — Pheasants — Plants and flowers— Hostility of natives — I complain at Ichang — Punishment of agitators — Excursion to the South — Deep ravines — Etu River — Varnish tree — Method of collecting varnish— Trade of district — Edible fungus — Heavy damages — Preparation for return to Ichang . . . .

Chapter V Sha-shih And Pa-chow

Excursion to Sha-shih — Large town with considerable trade — Ravages of cholera - Ho-sia — Try to find lakes, but fail — Trouble at a village — False information — Further insults — Treachery of coolies — Arrival at boat — Sturgeon — Stopped by head wind — Washing for gold— Tiger's Tooth Gorge— Loss of silver-laden junk —Return to Shanghai with Mrs. Pratt- Purchase cases for collections and duck-guns — Wild-fowl on Yang-tze — Return to Ichang — Floods — Decrease in size of river above Tung-ting CONTENTS XI PAGE 51 71 85 Lakes — Arrive at Ichang — Contract for boat to be built — Delay in building — Trip to Pa-chow — Cranes and storks at Hope Island — Geese at Pa-chow — Etu — Return to Ichang — Depar ture of Mrs. Pratt and children for England — Description of boat and arrangements on board ....

Chapter VI Through The Gorges Of The Yang-tze

Captain and crew of boat — Trackers — Stores taken — Start up the river — Ta-tung Rapid — Life-boats — Wreck passed — Sin-tan Rapid — An anxious night — Mo-tan Gorge — Kwei — Yeh-tan Rapid — Pa-tung-hsien— Wild rose — Absence of birds — Wu-shan Gorge — Fung-sien Gorge —Accident in a rapid — Striking scenery — Chinese coffins — Road making— Brine springs — Quei-chow-fu — Examination of passports — Trade of the place — Escort — Dog overboard — Bad rapid — Riverside villages — Wan-hsien — Opportunity to send letters — Orange trees — St. George's Island — Lung-chau . .

Chapter VII Journey Up The River Continued

Necessity of haste — Intricacy of channel — Pagodas — Gold washers — Fu-chau — 'Weigeren' boat — Meet Mr. George — Collecting larvæ and Coleoptera — Arrive at Chung-king — Visit Resident — A large and important town— Change in crews — Disagreeable incident — Leave Chung-king — Fine scenery — Bamboos and llamoo trees — Heronries — Vexatious delay — Cedars— Hostility at a small town — Poppies and tobacco — We land but are obliged to return — Robbery on board — Rise in river — Boat in danger — Man overboard — Lu-chau in ruins — Meet Mrs. Riley — Arrive at Sui-fu — Beautiful place — Natives Mahommedan principally and well disposed to foreigners — Large trading place — Upper Yang-tze — Leave for Kia-ting-fu — Fishing with cormorants — Ancient caves — Chien-wei-hsien — Brine wells — Suicide of soldier — Chu-ken-tan ........ CONTENTS l'AGE 102 120

Chapter VIII Kia-ting-fu To Wa-shan

Arrival at Kia-ting-fu— Attack by students— Stone throwing Retreat to a safe position — Message from Tao-tai— Am prisoner in boat— Prepare for overland journey— Assistance from missionaries—Instructions to lowban- Adopt Chinese dress — Colossal image— Visit from Tao-tai— Reports about boat- Explanations— Difficulty as to route— Leave for Wa-shan— Su-chi— Dendrobium seen— Omei-hsien— Wax insect, how made use of— Yang-tsun— Hsin-chang— Robbers outside inn— Lolo houses— Dangerous paths—' Times ' of 1877 at Lulu-ping— Tung River— Antelopes at Chin-kou-ho— Arrive at Ta-tienchih— Pere Martin— Wild animals and birds in district— Fruits and flowers— Trip to base of Wa-shan— View — Icicles Tributary Lolos— Collections— Arrival of mail— Description of Mount Wa ....

Chapter IX Wa-shan To Ta-tsien-lu

Decide to visit Ta-tsien-lu— Preparations for journey— Coolies' loads — So-i-ling Pass— Huang-mu-chang— Pere Martin— Chin-ki-za —Fu-lin— Its trade and produce— Inhospitality— Trouble about horses and coolies— Procure mules but lose them at Ni-tou— Fei-yueh-ling Pass— Pines and rhododendrons— Magnificent view— Dirt and discomfort at Leng-chi— Valley of the Tung River— Suspension bridge at Lu-ting-chiao— Cha-pa— Welcorned by missionaries— A flood in a watercourse —Bad road- Ruined houses— The Tung in flood— Traffic on the read— Fruit at Wa-ssu— Road to Ta-tsien-lu— Zones of vegetation— Single rope bridge— Ai-rival at Ta-tsien-lu— Kindness of Bishop Biet .

Chapter X Ta-tsien-lu

Meet Mr. Rockhill-His journey- Missionaries give great assistance — Christian collectors -Hard life and devotion of the missionaries-Description of the inn-Prayer papers- Caravans— CONTENTS XIII PAGE 134 147 Caravan drivers — Their dress — The landlady's wealth — Value of gold — City of Ta-tsien-lu — Its inhabitants — Their dress and arms — Lamas — Funeral rites of a lama — Brick tea — Loads carried by coolies — Trade — Distance travelled by caravans Currency — Sealing-wax — Women's feast — Sanscrit inscriptions — Despatch carriers between Pekin and Lhassa — Departure of Mr. Rockhill — Misfortunes of his men — Tibetan dogs — Expe dition to Chet-tu — Poor lodgings — Crossoptilon Tibetanum seen — Parnassius Imperator — Expedition to the north — Shooting Crossoptilon — Prepartions for departure

Chapter XI Return Journey To Ichang

Departure for Wa-ssu — Difficulty at Fu-lin — Huang-mu-chang — Road lost — So-i-ling Pass at night — Arrive at Ta-tien-chih at midnight — Collectors work — Horses procured — Guard of soldiers — Arrive at Kia-ting-fu — Carelessness with mails — Go to my boat — Very heavy flood — Great loss of life — False rumours concerning the object of my journey — Inspection of boat by Tao-tai — Visit to city — Lowban procures flag — Leave for Ichang — Destruction of village — Boat aground in wrong channel — Pass Sui-fu — Lu-chau — Delayed by heavy rain — Arrival at Chung-king — Delayed by high river at Quei-chow-fu — Wrecks of junks — Pass the Sin-tan and Ta-tung rapids — Waterfalls

Chapter XII Second Journey To Ta-tsien-lu

Arrival at Ichang — Story of the lowban's flag — Despatch collections — Leopard on the river bank — Trip to Hankow — Telegraph line — Official letters concerning my boat — Prepare for journey up river — Boat damaged on rock — Curious pagoda at Shi-pochia — Arrive at Chung-king — Collector sent to Quei-chau— Sui-fu Kia-ting-fu — Prepare for journey — Despatcli coolies to Kia-kiang— Omei-hsien — Wan-nien-tze — Bronze elephant and Buddha— Peculiar tea— Tibetan worshipper— The summit of Motmt Omei — Bronze Temple — Pagoda— Tremendous precipice Tigers on the mountain — Suicides — View of the Snowy CONTENTS XIV PAUK 168 177 205 Mountains — Number of temples and priests on the mountain — Kia-kiang — Arrival at Ya-chow— Bamboo rafts on Ya River — Yung-ching-hsien — Tai-hsiang-ling-kwan Pass — Ching-chi hsien — Bad road — Arrival at Ta-tsien-lu

Chapter XIII Ta-tsien-lu

Excursion to the south-east — Camp at an altitude of 12,500 feet — Rhododendron logs — Crossoptilon — Snow and frost — Search for road — Lake discovered — Salamanders— Mr. Kricheldorff goes to Mou-pin — Execution of Tibetans — Oppression of lamas — Message from Tibetan king — Try to find plateau to the north — Larvæ and pupa of Parnassius Imperator — Departure for neighbourhood of Mo-si-mien — Musk deer — Local king's palace — Ponies and cattle — Meet Tibetan king — King's farm — Hot springs — Pheasants and Ithaginis — Mo-si-mien Pass — Ya-chow-kun — Medicine collectors— Camping-ground chosen — Log hut — Lake discovered — Trip to Ta-tsien-lu — Snow-storm — Fine trees to the southward — Pu-tzu-fong — Black currants and small fruits — Natives excited against foreigner — Collectors at Ni-tou — Return to Ta-tsien-lu — Petition against my return south — Arrival of caravan from Shi-ga-tze — Pere Jeridot — Arrival of Prince Henri of Orleans — His collections — Races — Disturbance in city — Robbery — Breeding Crossoptilon — Lophophorus L'huysii — Tragopan — Parrots — Eagles .

Chapter XIV Mount Omei

Prepare to leave Ta-tsien-lu — Take charge of Prince Henri's collection — Collectors left behind — Departure — Village destroyed by landslip — Lu-ting-chiao — Sick woman — New road — Pass Chih-pan-kow, Fung-ya-ping and San-yan-kwan — Arrive at Yo-so-po — Tai-hsiang-ling-kwan Pass — Huang-ni-po — Shih-chia-chiao Ya-chow-fu — Orders to travel by Hung-ya-hsien — Heavy rain Robbery at Tsi-ho-kia — Hung-ya-hsien— Landlord in trouble Kia-kiang — Kia-ting-fu — Depart for Omei-shan — Wan-nien-ssu — Summit of Mount Omei — Glory of Buddha — Temples easily destroyed by fire — Quantity of bronze on mountain Iron suspension bridges ..... CONTENTS XV PAGffi 221 235 23& 251 266.