Portugal and Gallicia, with a review of the social and political state of the Basque Provinces; and a few remarks on recent events in Spain

Chapter I

Voyage to Lisbon — Steam Packet — Lisbon — View over the Tagus — Cintra — Bay of Colares — Marialva Palace — Mr. Beckford's Villa — Irish Maternity — Portuguese Games. 1

Chapter II

Road to Mafia — Convent of Mafra — Convent of Alcobaca — Monastic System considered — The ill-fated loves of Don Pedro and Inez de Castro — Politics of the Monks — Their social habits — Gloomy magnificence of the Convent of Alcobaca — Convent of Batalha — Society at Coimbra — System pursued at the University — The Garden of Tears — Melancholy Convent of the Carmelites — Spanish anomalies — History of the beautiful Bride of Oporto — Arrival at Oporto ... 22

Chapter III

Count and Countess of Villa Flor — Portuguese society — Effect of the recent changes on the Portuguese Character — Author leaves Oporto — Tremendous Storm — Fall of Locusts — Descrip- A CONTENTS. Paffe tion of the Traz os Montes — The Valentoines — Feudal man ners of the Nol'les— Dinner at the Capitan Mor — Character und Mansion of the venerable Senhor Joaquim — Lamego — Hospitality of Senhor Ferreira — Superstition of the Enchanted Mooress — Return to Oporto ...... 59

Chapter IV

Author leaves Oporto a second time — Portuguese Authorities alaimed — Exquisite Beauty of the Entre Minho — Joyous Manners of the People — Dramatic Dances — Author loses his way in a Foicst — Terrible Superstition of the Bruchas — A Valentoine— Camioha — Author enters Spain — Antiquated Landlady of Caldas — Old-fashioned Inn at Santiago — Shrine of St. Jago de Compostella — Field of Corunna — Influence of the Monks — Passionate Patriotism of the Gallicians — Ferrol . 96

Chapter V

Curious Costume ofthe Maragattos — Don Felippe Moreda — The Author arrested — State of Parties in Spain — Anecdote of King Ferdinand— Journey to Santiago with the Royalist Volunteers — Ruinous Building — Robber Tales of the Spaniard — Superstitions of the Portuguese — The Escolar, or Wolf-impeller — A truly loyal Dame — Superstition of the Negro — Ludicrous discomfiture of an Alcalde — Author released . 133

Chapter VI

Author arrested again — Description of Eguia, then Captain- General, now the famous Carlist Chief commanding in Biscay — Eguia's Tribunal — Author Examined — Remains in Santiago on Parole — State of Public Feeling — Immense Power of the Clergy — Spanish Notions of Religious Freedom — Love and Devotion in Spain — Vigilance of the Police — Sefior Atocha Eguia's Tribunal — Author restored to Liberty — Re-enters Portugal CONTENTS. V Page 314

Chapter VII

Tlie Author becomes six years younger than he was in the last Chapter — Distracted state of Spain in 1822 — Carnage of the Royalists at Cervera — Leaves Barcelona — Visits the famous Convent of Montserrat — The fated town of Vilia destroyed that very day — Wild charge of a Guerilla baud — Made prisoner — Roar of the distant fight — Precarious situation of the Author Fidelity of his young Guide — Desolate Venta — Guerilla band and Chief described — The ludicrous Shock . . . 224

Chapter VIII

First impressions confirmed — Surpassing beauty of the Entre Minho — Superstition of the Bento — Convent of Thibaim — Guimaraens — Inhabitants of the Minho and Mountaineers of the Traz os compared — Breakfast in the Convent-parlour — Monkish flattery — Return to Lisbon ..... 263

Chapter IX

Opening oi the Cortes — The Chambers — Dom Miguel's arrival in the Tagus — Swears to maintain the Charter — Tumults — Melancholy Parry at Bemfica — Progress of the Revolution — Policy of the Court — Emigration of the Imperialists — Interview with Count Villa Flor on board the Frigate — Visit to Costa — A Night's Adventure ...... 281

Chapter X

Assassination of the Professors of Coimbra — Costa — Midnight Adventure — Visconde Sa da Bandeira — Departure of the English Army— Sir William Clinton — Dom Miguel

Chapter XI

Leaves Lisbon — Moita — Luxuriant Vegetation — Setuval — Wild scene of Midnight Revolution —Arrabida Convent — Melides — Simplicity of the People — Santiago— The Capitan Mor — Want of Communication— Villa Nova— Sierra de Monchique — Beauty of a Portuguese Heath — Senhor Joaquim (Corregidor of Lagos) ; his kindness aud hospitality . . . DEDICATION. My dear Lord Egremont, The greater portion of this work has been long written, and was originally intended to have been incorporated with a political treatise on Portugal published some years ago, of which it was only a part and continuation. In that treatise I endeavoured to give my readers some insight into the laws of Portugal, the municipal and judicial system of that country, the existing tenures of property, the actual state of her trade, and the relative strength and po sition of the political parties which then divided the kingdom.

That work referred exclusively to those deeper and drier considerations, which, however fraught with interest to the politician, are, comparatively, little congenial to the taste of the general reader; but this narrative of my journey through Portugal, hitherto unpublished, is of a lighter cast, containing some sketches of society, mixed up with personal adventures, and occasionally alluding to those peculiar habits, superstitions, and opinions DEDICATION. upon which the political changes of the last few years can have, as yet, produced no sensible impression. There was One, indeed, who had consented to receive this tribute of filial affection. To that be loved Parent I should have offered this little work with a full consciousness of its many imperfections, but with an earnest hope that it might shed a transient gleam of pleasure over some of those weary hours that marked the progress of declining strength.

Circumstances, however, prevented its appearance at that time, and I subsequently dropped the inten tion of publishing it at all. But the stirring events that have lately taken place, and are still occurring in the northern provinces of Spain ; the extent to which the interests of Great Britain have been committed in this most unhappy struggle ; and, more than all, the deep interest which I feel in the welfare of the virtuous and high-minded Basques, are cir cumstances which have induced me to resume my pen, and give some brief account of the social and political state of Biscay. I was, at one time, well acquainted with that country, and learned, at an early period of life, to admire the character and appreciate the institutions of a DEDICATION. IX people little known to the British public, but, per haps, the noblest, though now the most oppressed, in Europe.

As my old Portuguese manuscript was still in existence, I determined to combine, in the same work, my observations on Biscay and the narrative of my journey through Portugal and Gallicia. I felt that, although the political condition of Por tugal has materially changed since my residence in that country, and my narrative may not, therefore, be found to possess the eager interest inspired by a detail of passing occurrences, still the period in question was marked by a crisis permanently affecting the destinies of that kingdom ; and, although the subjects alluded to in these separate parts of the same work are not precisely similar, still there are many points of interest common to both ; for, indeed, no political circumstances affecting Spain can fail of exercising, perhaps an indirect, but still a certain influence on the sister kingdom.

The extraordinary state of our present relations with Spain has induced me to enter at some length into the actual politics of that kingdom. The Basques, whose records are fraught with interest, and, politi cally speaking, I may almost say with wonder to a3 X DKDICATION. every reflecting mind, although extremely influential from their character, their vicinity to the frontier, and their almost impregnable country, occupy but an inconsiderable portion of the Spanish territory. From this cause, perhaps, no constitutional history exists of this most interesting people ; and the growth of their privileges, from the establishment of some elementary principles of liberty in the twilight of the middle ages, to the system of well-regulated, but almost unbounded freedom which they have since enjoyed, is only to be traced through many documents, and in notices, copious enough, it is true, but scattered through the works of many historians.

I have endeavoured to draw up a brief, but, I hope, connected statement of their gradually improv ing laws and liberties ; and have referred my reader for every fact of moment to the chroniclers and his torians of the time. To the man who thinks that the justice of a great political question should in some degree affect the policy of his Government, this statement may not be wholly destitute of in terest ; while in the occasional notices of ancient manners and opinions, visible in the record of old transactions, the antiquarian may perhaps find mat ter of amusement. DEDICATION. XI With respect to Portugal, I have dwelt but slightly on the cities, the churches, and the palaces ; objects whicii generally, and justly, occupy so large a space in a work of this nature ; because I felt that every building of importance, and almost every cir cumstance of note in the great towns of Portugal, have been accurately described by preceding authors within the last few years.

I have chosen a humbler path, and have endeavoured to lead my reader over ground not wholly void of interest, though compara tively unexplored ; to make him acquainted with the fairy fields of the Minho, with the gloomy supersti tions of the wild districts of Alentejo, with the feudal state of society still existing in the Traz os Montes, and to give him some insight into the peculiar habits of the virtuous but almost unknown Gallicians. This little work will not assist the traveller through Portugal and Gallicia as a guide, and has no preten sion to that character ; but is rather a record of events that befel the author during his journey through the country at a very critical period, and of observations growing out of that peculiar state of things. My mode of travelling was calculated to secure the kind of information I wished to obtain.

From DEDICATION. Corunna to Cape St. Vincent my journeys were invariably performed on horseback, and I was thus enabled to deviate at pleasure from the high road, and penetrate into the most secluded districts, encountering at times great hardships, and even considerable peril, mixing with all classes, and often joining the peasantry as they collected around their evening fires. These habits, combined with thc distracted state of the times in which my expeditions were generally undertaken, occasionally involved me in suspicion, and led me into situations of considerable embarrassment ; but perhaps enabled me to obtain some know ledge of the popular feeling, — a knowledge which in moments of political disturbance can seldom be acquired except by personal and somewhat severe experience. I must also admit that I may have been involved in adventures not strictly defensible on the score of prudence; but it will be remembered, I trust, that many years have elapsed since their occurrence, and I was then at a time of life when difficulties to be surmounted, and dangers to be braved, are rather a source of pleasurable excitement, than of wise and careful avoidance.

DEDICATION. XIII Unacquainted, my dear Lord, with your feelings on the political points to which I have alluded, but knowing your general love of literature, I have ven tured to request your acceptance of this little work in its present shape, and shall feel gratified if its perusal affords you an hour's amusement. I remain, dear Lord Egremont, Yours, most sincerely, The Author. Tanhurst, 1836.

Preface

TO THE SECOND EDITION. Since this Work first appeared, it has undergone the ordeal of a large portion of the reviewing litera ture of the country, and I may thank the reviewers, with scarcely an exception, for the friendly nature of their criticism. A pamphlet has, however, appeared, entitled " Policy of England towards Spain, considered chiefly with reference to the Social and Po litical State of the Basque Provinces," disputing many of the positions laid down and facts ad vanced in my Basque chapter, and, indeed, calling into question the general accuracy of my state ments. The Pamphlet, written with great ability, was at first attributed to an individual, distinguished by the high position he occupies in the Government, and by his acknowledged talents. Lord Palmerston has, indeed, denied the imputed parentage, but, at the same time, has so completely adopted the facts, opinions, and principles contained in the Pamphlet, and the belief in its official origin is so universal, that, considering it in this light, I

PREFACE.

. > have felt myself bound to repel the charges of mis statement, or at least of unpardonable inaccuracy, which it directly urges against me. I have also made a few comments on the dangerous views of foreign policy, briefly but strongly unfolded in the Pamphlet, thrust out, I think, as feelers, to ascer tain how much the public mind will bear, and which, though not embodied in the language, appear to have received the sanction of our Noble Secretary for Foreign Affairs. I am far from wishing to disparage the Pam phlet of my opponent; on the contrary, I readily admit that it is couched in temperate language, and proceeds from a man of talent and gentlemanly feeling; from a writer evidently having the resources of the Foreign Office at his disposal, and possessing much of that skill and practice which enable an acute man of the world to give a sem blance of justice to a really indefensible policy, by a clever use of his materials, by evading the main points of his adversary's case, by implying where he does not venture to assert, and by general assertion where he cannot specifically prove.

I must also beg my readers to recollect, that much of the information transmitted through his pages to the public, has been supplied by that Spanish Government which is supported by (he stock-jobbing interest, kept in place for stock-jobbing purposes, and noto-

PREFACE.

. XVII riously identified with the views of speculators on the Exchange. Any representations, therefore, flowing, indirectly it is true, and through a respect able channel, but still flowing from such a source, must be received with deep suspicion. Had his Majesty's Ministers shown any disposition to revert to a sounder policy, during the late Parliamentary discussions on Spanish affairs ; had they even stated that the honour of Great Britain was not to be outraged by a renewal of the act of injustice and oppression, the Order in Council, I should not have trespassed upon the public, at least at present, by the insertion of any new matter. Un questionably my opponent impugned my credit, by questioning the accuracy of my statements, and when his views were openly adopted by men high in official station, some fresh observations, on my part, became almost necessary in self-defence.

But since the publication of that Pamphlet, the author of a recent article in the Quarterly Review has refuted its leading errors, and exposed the mischievous con sequences of our foreign policy, on such broad grounds, and in so masterly a manner, that, for the sake of my poor friends, the Basques, and as far as my own character was concerned, I might have remained perfectly satisfied with such a powerful ex position of their case, and justification of my state ments; but a feeling, stronger in its effect upon

PREFACE.

. XVIII my mind than any reasoning, — a vivid recollection of former days in Spain and former kindness re ceived, and an irresistible sympathy with the op pressed against the oppressor, — compelled, rather than induced me to take up my pen again in their sacred cause. * My opponent errs in supposing that party motives inclined me to advocate that cause. In that cause I felt a real interest, before events had given it the prominence it now assumes, when it was little known in England, and little connected with those party sympathies which so often unite thc minds of men on great public questions, and sometimes lend success to the efforts of the feeblest advocate. I wage no party war with his Majesty's Ministers; I fight the battles of no party. God knows that in every word which I have spoken, in every line which I have written upon this sub ject, I have been swayed by one feeling alone, — by the deep-rooted conviction, that we are labouring in a most oppressive and unchristian course, and are sacrificing permanent interests, and honourable reputation, to please the foreign democracy of the day, to crush the weak and to gratify * More recently, Mr. Walton's answer, in detail, to the ministerial Pamphlet has appeared, and a very able work it is ; nor can we forget the •' Reply to the Policy of England towards Spain", by a Nobleman, whose pen it must be hoped, for his country's sake, has not been exer cised for the last time in her cause.

PREFACE.

. XIX the thankless. I could not endure to think that the country where, in my early days, the British name had been almost worshipped, and the British stranger received with joy and affection, should now be given up to the violence of British invasion, and that the blessings once heaped by a grateful people upon my native land should be exchanged for curses loud and deep. I could not bear to think that England, the free, the mighty, and once the just, should trample on the liberties of a people as independent as her own, because, unhappily, they have less power to resist aggression. But British interests are not assailed, the privi leges of Biscay are only nominal, — the reader may exclaim in the language of the Pamphlet. Let him, then, devote five minutes' leisure to the examination of that subject ; let him judge, not from my state ments, but from the recorded opinions of the ene mies of the Biscayan cause : and if he come to the conclusion that British blood and treasure are now expended in subverting, not promoting, the inte rests of freedom, — in oppressing a people who once loved and respected us, — and in assisting those who do not value our support, — let him remember, that the period allotted for the operation of the Order in Council is about to expire, and that, con sequently, his Majesty's Ministers may withdraw, without compromise or dishonour, from that perilous

PREFACE.

. XX part of their policy, which sanctions the employment of an irregular force in the affairs of Spain. Under these circumstances, it becomes the wise as well as the generous, to consider well the probable results of the dangerous course we are pursuing, before they encourage by their approbation, or tolerate by their indifference, a continuance of that war of ag gression which is now carried on by our Govern ment, as much, I fear, from passion, as from erroneous views of policy, and which is inflicting the deepest stain that ever yet obscured the honour of England. London, May 25, 1837. PORTUGAL AND GALLICIA.

Chapter I

Voyage to Lisbon — Steam Packet — Lisbon — View over the Tagus — Cintra — Bay of Colares — Marialva Palace — Mr. Beckford's Villa — Irish Maternity — Portuguese Games. I embarked on board the Duke of York steam packet, on the evening of the 28th of July, 1827, and quitted the harbour of Portsmouth at six o'clock. We glided rapidly along the coast of Hampshire ; the wind fell; the night was fine, and there was little motion on the water. I paced the deck till a late hour, and was joined by a gentleman, whose conversation, replete with Eastern lore, attracted my attention. I afterwards heard him announced as Mr. Wolff, the celebrated missionary, then pro ceeding with his wife, Lady Georgiana, to the Holy Land. I was introduced to her in the evening, and could not but admire the ivnhesitating devotion with which she renounced her native country and her natural connexions to follow her husband's fortunes, and promote her religious faith in a distant and barbarous land.

VOL. I. B [CH. I- VOYAGE TO PORTUGAL. We had passed the coasts of Hampshire and Dor setshire during thc night, and now saw, a few miles distant, but full in view, the dark-red shores of Devonshire. Immediately before us the Exe poured its noble stream into the Channel : we skirted the picturesque coves of Dawlish, but an unfriendly mist concealed them from our sight; we glided by Berry head ; we passed the furze-covered heights of Ash erne ; and Start Point, stretching boldly into the ocean, was the last British headland that greeted us over the deep. We then bore straight towards Ushant in a south-westerly direction, passed that island during the following night, and entered the Bay of Biscay. The ideas of storm and dread, which thc old song and nursery associations have so long connected with this famous bay, were not, upon this occasion, weakened by any unusual calm ; we were only impelled, it is true, by a light and favourable breeze, but the waters were sufficiently ruffled to contrast advantageously, in point of grandeur and size of wave, with the Channel which we had just left, A windy day was succeeded by a fine starlight night.

The following morning was calm, and the sea had a fine blue tinge. I finished, with regret, that de lightful picture of Eastern manners, the " Epicurean," one of the most fascinating works of an author who never fails to transport his readers into the scenes and climates he describes, as much by the justness as by the beauty of his imagery. On the lst of August we were skirting the bold and mountainous coast of Gallicia; we saw the light- CH. I.] THE BERLINES. 3 house of Corunna in the distance; we passed the picturesque island of Cisargas ; and the high hills in the background mingled well with occasional glimpses of tlie intervening sea : we were borne rapidly along by Monte Boa Villana, and Cape Finisterre celebrated as the limit of the renowned Bay of Biscay. The hills are barren, and have that sandy appearance so characteristic of Spanish scenery.

The villages are few ; and there is little wood on the coast, which we sometimes approached so nearly that we saw and heard the waves breaking upon its granite rocks. On the evening of the following day we saw the large and little Berlines, two groups of bold and peaked crags, standing far out in the sea. Soon afterwards we hailed a ship proceeding to Gibraltar, and n a few minutes left her far behind. It is difficult to de scribe the effect produced on the mind by the rapidity of steam navigation in the neighbourhood of striking and varied scenery : objects fatiguing to the sight, if dwelt upon too long, appear enchanting when they pass before the eye in rapid succession, like shifting scenes on the stage. We were now in latitude 39°, and its influence was perceptible. We enjoyed the heavenly stillness of a southern evening, yet were not retarded by the universal calm.

The setting sun shed a fine glow on the waters, illuminated the distant sails of the ship we had lately hailed, and shed its last glories on the Berline crags, which presented themselves in many different but always in pictu resque points of view, and at length sank beneath the horizon. b2 [CH. I. VOYAGE TO PORTUGAL. Early on the following morning I saw immediately a-head the rock of Lisbon : the hills of Cintra rose finely in the background, and the neighbouring coast was studded with villas intermingled with olive and orange groves. The entrance of the Tagus is fine : on one side the shore is crowded with palaces; on the other, the hills, though neither very bold or varied, possess sufficient elevation to give character to the scene. The fort of Belem is curious, picturesque, and irregular, but without architectural beauty.

We passed by the house of the British Admiral, Lord Amelius Beauclerk, and the palace of the Cardinal, a spacious edifice, with many turrets, but a very un pleasing display of slate roof. As we sailed up the river, the beauty of the view increased. The noble but unfinished palace of the Ajuda crowned the summit of a neighbouring steep ; and then the whole city of Lisbon, built on its seven sloping hills, and overhanging the Tagus, gradually revealed itself; and as its palaces and convents, interspersed with gardens, were seen rising above each other, it cer tainly formed a most imposing object from the water. Entering one of the numerous boats by which we were besieged, and rowing across the Tagus, I landed at Pampoullia, and ascended a steep hill that leads to Reeves's Hotel. Our voyage had only lasted six days, and was considered prosperous.

The party on board exhibited a curious assemblage of persons, en tertaining very dissimilar ideas, and distinguished by very different manners ; an assemblage that could hardly, under any other circumstances, have been CH. I.] LISBON. 5 brought together; and this discrepancy of tastes, habits, and opinions sometimes gave rise to amusing and not altogether uninstructive scenes. Besides Lady Georgiana and Mr. Wolff, Mrs. Burgoyne was also a passenger, a lady of great taste and ac complishments, then sailing to Lisbon to join her husband, Lieutenant-Colonel Burgoyne, whose ac quaintance I had afterwards the pleasure of making in that city, and am indeed indebted to their society for many delightful hours. There was also a niece of Romero Alpuente's, who was said to be dying, and two other ladies : one simplicity itself, and the other more remarkable for her beauty than for that youthful quality.

I secured rooms at Reeves's, and remained sta tionary till the evening, when I was joined by my friend Sir Arthur Capel de Brooke, a young man of ancient family, and at that time well known in the literary world by his published travels ; since that period he has largely added to his reputation by his " Journey into Morocco," a work exhibiting an un usual talent for observation, with a quick appreciation of the beautiful, and great general powers. The view from my windows extended over Lisbon, over the river, with its numerous shipping, and a thousand latine sails glittering on its surface, and now lighted up by the last rays of the setting sun : few objects strike the beholder with greater admira tion than these peculiar sails, which are exquisitely beautiful when seen in profile ; and when beheld in front resemble a butterfly perched on a dark ground.

I. 6 LISBON. with wings expanded. Soon afterwards the moon rose, and we rambled through the city by a light peculiarly favourable to every natural or artificial object that is grand in its proportions but defective in detail. On the 9th of August I went with Mr. Forbes, to whose kindness I was indebted on a thousand occa sions, to see the Aqueduct, which is perhaps un equalled in boldness and grandeur of effect by any similar monument of art. It supplies Lisbon with water ; it traverses a deep valley, near the beautiful village of Alcantara ; and as I stood beneath the centre arch, and gazed upwards, it appeared absolutely stupendous : unfortunately, the arches are not uniform ; some are in the Gothic and pointed style, while others are semicircular, adiscrepancy which mars the general effect, but less than might be supposed.

Although this aqueduct stretches across the country for many miles uninterruptedly, no great extent of unbroken range can be seen from any particular position, on account of the extreme inequality of the ground. That evening at dinner I found myself seated next to thc Count da Puente, who was just nominated Secretary for the war department, upon the retirement of Count Saldanha. He possessed great con versational powers and considerable talent for debate, and at that time acted with the moderate and well judging body of the Constitutionalists : and here, for the first time, I met Count Villa Flor, the repre sentative of an ancient house, a man of high inte- CH. I.] 7 COUNT VILLA FLOR. grity, and universally looked up to by the staunch adherents of the Charter. In the beginning of the year he had commanded the Constitutional forces against the Miguelites, and the most distinguished success had attended his military exertions.

On thc following day I again met him at Sir William Clin ton's, where a large party was assembled to celebrate the birth-day of King George the Fourth, at which entertainment our host judiciously contrived that the band should play Portuguese airs during dinner. The " Bridge of Creus," a piece of music so called, after the action gained by Count Villa Flor, and composed almost on the field of battle, evidently excited some emotion among the chiefs, who were then present, and had fought on that day. Late in the evening I wandered over the General's garden, laid out in the old taste of straight walks, parterres, fountains, and statues ; fragrant shrubs abounded ; creepers hung over the trelisses in pro fusion : the scene was peaceful, and lit up by a splendid moon. I returned home, and retired to rest; but the incessant assaults of the mosquitos banished sleep.

These vampires found me, unfortunately easy of access, as the heat of the weather had induced me to keep every door and window open : had they only devoured me, I might have patiently endured the infliction ; but they kept up a perpetual war-song in my ears, an insulting accompaniment to their human repast. After some restless hours, I rose and paced my room. The view from my window was lovely. I looked upon the Tagus, with all its [CH. I. 8 CINTRA. shipping, from the frigate to the little latine sail, the opposite hills softened, yet distinctly shown, by the full moon, and the great city itself buried in deep repose. On the 13th of August I quitted Lisbon, and took the road to Cintra, with Colonel Lambert, of the Guards, a friend long known and much esteemed. In consequence of sundry ingenious delays on the part of my domestic, we did not start till five o'clock in the morning, too late by an hour at least to com mence, at that sultry time of year, a journey in Por tugal.