The City of the Sultan, and domestic manners of the Turks in 1836

Front matter

i> a ji fe i-A^lie li ____• io the _L__g TTIEIE <3m_S_._P__5 3_d ®3F THIie TPlffaSf^T SS© _£___. __&^I_. ©._____._?. . "-Mir*.! Pas due (Lei. THE CITY OF THE SULTAN; AND DOMESTIC MANNERS OF THE TURKS, IN 1836. BY MISS P A R D O E, AUTHOR OF " TRAITS AND TRADITIONS OF PORTUGAL." THE MAIPKN's TOWEK. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON : HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1837. LONDON : F. SHOBF.RL, JUN., LEICESTER STREET, LEICESTER SQUARE. TO HER TO WHOM PROFESSION AND PANEGYRIC WERE ALIKE SUPERFLUOUS ; AND FROM WHOM, DURING MY SOJOURN IN THE EAST, I WAS FOR THE FIRST TIME SEPARATED — TO MY LOVED AND LOVING MOTHER, I DEDICATE THIS WORK.

Preface

. In publishing the present work I feel that 1 should be deficient in self-justice, did I not state a few facts relatively to the numerous difficulties with which I have had to contend during its compilation. The language of Turkey, in itself a serious impediment from its total dissimilarity to every European tongue, naturally raises a barrier be tween the native and the stranger, which is to the last only partially removed by the intervention of a third person ; who, acting as an Inter preter, too frequently fritters away the soul of the conversation, even where he does not wil fully pervert its sense. But this drawback to a full and free intercourse with the natives, irritating and annoying as it is, sinks. into insigni ficance, when compared with the myriad snares laid for the stranger, (and, above all, for the literary stranger) by party-spirit and political VI

PREFACE.

. prejudice. The liberal-minded and high-hearted politician of Europe, even while he is straining every nerve, and exerting every energy, to sup port and strengthen the interests of his country, disdains to carry with him into private life the hatreds, the jealousies, and the suspicions, which, like rust on metal, mar the brightness of the spirit that harbours them. He does not reject a friend because his political tenets may be at variance with his own ; nor overlook the amiable traits of his character, to dwell only upon his opposing prejudices and interests. The height to which party-spirit is carried in Constantinople ; or I should rather say, in the Frank quarter of Constantinople, would be laughable were it not mischievous. Even females are not free from the malaria which hovers like an atmosphere about the streets and " palaces" of Pera ; and a traveller has not been domesticated a week among its inhabitants, ere he almost begins to believe that the destinies of the whole Eastern Empire hang upon the breath of a dozen individuals.

With one party, Russia is the common sewer into which are poured all the reproach and the vituperation of indignant patriotism — with the other, England is the land mark towards which is pointed the finger of

PREFACE.

. VII suspicion and defiance. All this may be very necessary, and very praiseworthy, as a matter of diplomacy ; I suppose that it is both the one and the other. I have no opinion to offer on the subject. I merely venture to question the pro priety of suffering such anti-social feelings to intrude into the bosom of private life ; and to question the soundness of the judgment which would universally create a bad man out of a rival politician ; and make the opening of one door the signal for the closing of another. It is said that the three plagues of Constantinople are Fire, Pestilence, and Dragomen ; j udging from what I saw and heard while there, I should be inclined to add a fourth, and to designate it, Politics. Certain it is that the faubourg of Pera always reminded me of an ant-hill ; with its jostling, bustling, and racing for straws and trifles ; and its ceaseless, restless struggling and striving to secure most inconsequent results.

That the great question of Eastern policy is a weighty and an important one, every thinking person must concede at once ; but whether ite final settlement will be advantageously accele rated by individual jealousies and individual hatreds is assuredly more problematical. " He who is not for me is against me," is the motto of

PREFACE.

. VIII every European resident in Turkey ; for each, however incompetent he may be to judge of so intricate and comprehensive a subject, is never theless a loud and uncompromising politician. And, if the temporary sojourner in the East be resolved to belong to no clique, to pledge him self to no party, and to pursue a straight and independent path, as he would do in Europe, without lending himself to the views of either, he is certain to be suspected by both. These are the briars which beset the way-side of the stranger in Turkey. He has not only to contend with the unaccustomed language and manners of the natives — to fling from him his European prejudices — and to learn to look can didly and dispassionately on a state of society, differing so widely from that which he has left — but when the wearied spirit would fain fall back, and repose itself for a while among more familiar and congenial habits, it has previously to undergo an ordeal as unexpected as it is irritating- ; and from which it requires no inconsiderable portion of moral courage to escape unshackled. Such are the adventitious and unnecessary difficulties that have been gratuitously prepared for the Eastern traveller, and superadded to

PREFACE.

. IX the natural impediments of the locality ; and of these he has infinitely more reason to complain, than of the unavoidable obstacles which meet him at every step in his commerce with the natives. That the Turks as a people, and par ticularly the Turkish females, are shy of making the acquaintance of strangers, is most true ; their habits and feelings do not lend themselves readily to a familiar intercourse with Europeans ; nor are they induced to make any extraordinary effort to overcome the prejudice with which they ever look upon a Frank, when they remember how absurdly and even cruelly they have been misrepresented by many a passing traveller, possessed neither of the time nor the opportunity to form a more efficient judgment. When my father and myself left Europe, it was with the intention of visiting, not only Turkey, but also Greece, and Egypt ; and we accordingly carried with us letters to influential individuals, resident in each of those interesting countries, whose assistance and friendship would have been most valuable to us.

And, for the two or three first months of our sojourn in Constan tinople, while yet unwilling to draw deductions, and to trust myself with inferences, which might, and probably would, ultimately prove erroneous, VOL. I. A X

PREFACE.

. I suffered myself to be misled by the assertions and opinions of prejudiced and party-spirited persons, and still maintained the same purpose. But, when awakened to a suspicion of the spirit thrall in which I had been kept, I resolved to hazard no assertion or opinion which did not emanate from personal conviction, and I found that I could not prove an honest chronicler if I merely contented myself with a hurried and superficial survey of a country constituted like Turkey. To this conviction must consequently be attri buted the fact that the whole period of my so journ in the East was passed in Constantinople, and a part of Asia Minor. But my personal disappointment will be overpaid, should it be conceded that I have not failed in the attempt of affording to my readers a more just and complete insight into Turkish domestic life, than they have hi therto been enabled to obtain. Bradenham Lodge, Bucks, May 1837. CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

Chapter I

The Golden Horn — Stamboul in Snow — The Serai Bournou — Scutari — Galata — First View of Constantinople — St. Sophia and Solimanie — Pera — Domestication of Aquatic Birds— Sounds at Sea — Caiques — Oriental Grouping — Armenian Costume— Reforms of Sultan Mahmoud — Dervishes — Eastern Jews — Evening — Illuminated Minarets — Romance versus Reason — Pain at Parting — Custom House of Galata — The East versus the West — Reminiscences of the Marseillois Functionaries — The British Consul at Marseilles — The Light-house at Syra — The Frank Quarter — Diplomatic Atmosphere — Straw Huts ■ — Care of the Turks for Animals — Scene from Shakspeare Page 1

Chapter II

Difficulty of Ingress to Turkish Houses — Steep Streets — The Harem —The Tandour — The Mangal— The Family — Female Costume- Luxurious Habits — The Ramazan — The Dining-room — The Widow — The Dinner — The Turks not Gastronomers — Oriental Hospitality — Ceremony of Ablution — The Massaldjhe — Alarm in the Harem — The Prayer — Evening Offering — Puerile Questions — Opium — Primitive Painting — Splendid Beds — Avocations of a Turkish Lady — Oriental Coquetry — Shopping — Commercial Flirtations — The Sultana Heybetoullah — A Turkish Carriage — The Charshees — Armenian Merchants — Greek Speculators — Perfumes and Embroidery . . . . . . . 16

Chapter III

Turning Dervishes — Appearance of the Tekie — The Mausoleum — Duties of the Dervishes — Chapel ofthe Convent — The Chief Priest A CONTENTS. — Dress of the Brotherhood — Melancholy Music — Solemnity of the Service — Mistakes of a Modern Traveller — Explanation of the Cere mony — The Prayer — The Kiss of Peace— Appearance of the Chapel — Religious Tolerance of the Turks — The French Renegade — Sketch of Halet Effendi, the Founder of the Tekie . 40

Chapter IV

Merchants of Galata— Palaces of Pera— Picturesque Style of Building — The Perotes — Social Subjects — Greeks, European and Schismatic — Ambassadorial Residences — Entree of the Embassies — The Carnival — Soirees Dansantes — The Austrian Minister — Madame la Baronne —The Russian Minister— Madame de Boutenieff— The Masked Ball — Russian Supremacy — The Prussian Plenipotentiary — The Sardinian Charge d' Affaires — Diplomacy Unhoused — Society of Pera . . . . . . 56

Chapter V

The Greek Carnival — Kassim Pasha — The Marine Barrack — The Admiralty — Palace ofthe Capitan Pasha — Turkish Ships and Turkish Sailors — More Mistakes — Aqueduct of Justinian — The Serai — The Arsenal — The " Sweet Waters " — The Fanar — Interior of a Greek House — Courteous Reception — Patriarchal Customs — Greek Ladies at Home — Confectionary aud Coffee — A Greek Dinner — Ancient and Modern Greeks — A Few Words on Education — National Politeness — The Great Logotheti Aristarchi — His Politics — Sketch of his Father — His Domestic History — A Greek Breakfast — The Morning after a Ball — Greek Progress towards Civilization — Parallel between the Turk and the Greek ..... 65

Chapter VI

Difficulty of Obtaining an Insight into Turkish Character — Inconvenience of Interpreters — Errors of Travellers — Ignorance of Resident Europeans — Fables and Fable-mongers — Turkey, Local and Moral — Absence of Capital Crime — Police of Constantinople — Quiet Streets— Sedate Mirth — Practical Philosophy of the Turks — National Emulation — Impossibility of Revolution — Mahmoud and his People Unpopularity of the Sultan — Russian Interference — Vanity of the Turks — Russian Gold — Tenderness of the Turks to Animals Penalty for Destroying a Dog — The English Sportsman — Fondness of the Turks for Children— Anecdote of the Reiss Effendi — Adopted Children — Love of the Musselmauns for their Mothers Turkish indifference to Death— Their Burial-places — Fasts — The Turks in the Mosque — Contempt of the Natives for Europeans — Freedom of the Turkish Women — Inviolability of the Harem — Domestic Economy of CONTENTS. XIII the Harem — Turkish Slaves — Anecdote of a Slave of Achmet Pasha— Cleanliness of Turkish Houses— The Real Romance of the East ....... 8fi 86

Chapter VII

The Harem of Mustafa Effendi — The Ladies of the Harem — Etiquettical Observances of the Harem — Ceremonies of the Salemliek — Jealousy of Precedence among the Turkish Women — Apartment of the Effendi — Eastern Passion for Diamonds — Personal Appearance of Mustafa Effendi — The little Slave-girl — Slavery in Turkey — Gallant Present— The Dinner— Turkish Cookery — Illuminated Mosques— The Bokshaliks— The Toilet after the Bath— History of an Odalique — Stupid Husbands — Reciprocal Commiseration — Errors ofa Modern French Traveller — Privacy of the Women's Apartments — Anecdote ofthe Wife ofthe Kiara Bey— The Ba'iram Bokshalik— My Sleeping-room — Forethought of Turkish Hospitality — Farewell to Fatma Hanoum — Dense Crowd — Turkish Mob— Turkish Officers — Military Difficulty — The " Lower Orders" — Tolerance of the Orientals towards Foreigners — Satisfactory Expedient . . 109

Chapter VIII

Bath-room of Scodra Pasha — Fondness of the Eastern Women for the Bath — The Outer Hall — The Propiietress — Female Groups — The Cooling-room — The Great Hall — The Fountains — The Bathing Women — The Dinner — Apology for the Turkish Ladies . 129

Chapter IX

Cheerful Cemeteries — Burial-ground of Pera — Superiority of the Turkish Cemeteries — Cypresses — Singular Superstition — The Grand Champs — Gr^ek Grave-yard — Sultan Selim's Barrack — Village of St. Demetrius — European Burial-ground — Grave-stones — The Kiosk — Noble View — Legend of the Maiden's Tower — Plague Hospital of the Turks — The Plague-Caique — Armenian Cemetery — Curious Inscriptions — Turkish Burial-place — Distinctive Head-stones — Graves of the Janissaries — Wild Superstition — Cemetery of Scutari — Splendid Cypresses — Ancient Prophecy — Extent of Burial-ground — The Headless Dead — Exclusive Enclosures — Aspect of the Cemetery from the Summer Palace of Heybetoullah Sultane — Local Superstition — The Damned Souls . . . 138

Chapter X

Character of the Constantinopolitan Greeks — The Greek Colony at the Fanar — Vogoride, Logotheti, and Augiolopolo— Political Sentiment — Chateaubriand at the Duke de Rovigo's — Biting Criticism — Greek CONTENTS. XIV Chambers — " What's in a Name ?"— Custom of Burning Perfumes —The Pastille of the Seraglio — Turkish Cosmetics — Eastern Beauty ....... 157

Chapter XI

The Kourban-Bairam — Politeness of Mustafa Effendi — Depressing Recollections — Unquiet Night— Midnight March — Turkish Coffee— A Latticed Araba— The Mosque of Sultan Achmet— Beautiful coupd'œil— Dress of the Turkish Children— Restlessness of the Franks — The Festival of Sacrifice — Old Jewish Rite — The Turkish Wife— Sun-rise — Appearance of the Troops — Turkish Ladies — Group of Field Officers —The Sultan's Stud — Magnificent Trappings — The Seraskier Pasha — The Great Officers of State — The Procession — The Sultan — Imperial Curiosity — The Cheik-Islam— Costume of the Sultan — Japanese Superstition — Vanity of Sultan Mahmoud — The Hairdresser of Halil Pasha — Rapid Promotion — Oriental Salutations — Halil Pasha— Sa'id Pasha — Unruly Horses—The Valley of the " Sweet Waters "—Pera .... 171

Chapter XII

The Military College — Achmet Pasha and Azmi Bey — Study of Azmi Bey — His grateful Memories of England and the English — The Establishment — The Lithographic Presses — Extemporaneous Poetry — Halls of Study — Number of Students — Mathematical Hall — The Sultan's Gallery— The Mosque— The Mufti— The Turkish Creed — The Imperial Closet — The Gallery of the Imperial Suite — The Retiring-Room — The Printing-Office — The Hospital — The Refectory — The Professor of Fortification — Negro Officers — Moral Condition of the College — Courtesy of the Officers — Deficiencies of the Professors — The Turks a Reading People -—Object of the Institution — Reasons of its Failure — Smiling Enemies — Forlorn Hope — Russian Influence — Saduk Agha — Achmet Pasha — Azmi Bey — Apology for my Prolixity . . . . . . 594

Chapter XIII

Invitation from Mustapha Pasha of Scodra — The Caique, and the Caiquejhes — How to Travel in a Caique — Hasty Glances — Self- Gratulation — Scutari — Imperial Superstition —The Seraglio Point — Dolma Batche — Beshiktash — The Turning Dervishes — Be^lierbey— The Kiosks — A Dilemma — A Ruined Palace — An Introduction—A Turkish Beauty — A Discovery —A New Acquaintance The Buyuk Hanoum — Fatiguing Walk — Palace of Mustapha Pasha — The Harem — Turkish Dyes — Ceremonies of Reception Turkish Establishment— The Buyuk Hanoum — Turkish Chaplets CONTENTS. XV The Imperial Firman — Pearls, Rubies, and Emeralds — The Favourite Odalique — Heymine Hanoum — A Conversation on Politics — Scodra Pasha — Singular Coincidence — Convenience of the Turkish Kitchen — Luxury of the Table — Coquetry of the chibouk — Turkish Mode of Lighting the Apartments — Gentleness towards the Slaves — Inte resting Reminiscences — Domestic Details — Dilaram Hanoum — A Paragraph on Pearls — A Turkish Mirror — A Summons — Scodra Pasha — Motives for Revolt — The Imperial Envoy — Submission — Ready Wit of the Pasha's Son — The Reception Room — Personal Appearance of the Scodra Pasha — Inconvenient Courtesy — Conver sation on England — Philosophy — Pleasant Dreams — The Plague- Smitten ....... 216

Chapter XIV

Procession of Betrothal— Preliminary Ceremonies — The Mantle of Mahomet — The Palace of the Seraskier Pasha — The Palace Square — Picturesque Groups — An Interior — Turkish Children — Oriental Curiosity — Costume of the Turkish Children — Military Music — The Procession — Hurried Departure of the Crowd — The Seraskier 's Tower — The Fire Guard — Candidates for the Imperial Bride — Imperial Expedient — Said Pasha — Policy of the Seraskier — An Audience — The Biter Bitten — Ingenious Ruse — Sublime Economy — Brilliant Traffic — The Danger of Delay — The Marriage Gifts — An Interesting Interview ..... 255

Chapter XV

Fine Scenery — The Coast of Asia — Turkish Cemeteries — The Imperial Serai — The Golden Horn — Mount Olympus — The Arabajhe — The Araba — The Persian Kiosk — The Barrack of Scutari— The Mosque of Selim III. — The Slipper of the Sultana Valide — The Imperial Guard — Military Material — The Macaroni Manufactory — Sublime Targets — A Major of the Imperial Guard — Triumph of Utilitarianism — The Rise of the Vines — The Holy Tomb — Encampments of the Plague-smitten — The Setting Sun — Return to Europe — The Square of Topp-hanne . . . . . . . 276

Chapter XVI

Turkish Superstitions — Auguries — The Court Astrologer — The Evil Eye — Danger of Blue Eyes — Imperial Firman — The Babaluk — The Ceremony — Sable Pythonesses — Witchcraft . . 289

Chapter XVII

Imperial Invitation — Disagreeable Adventure — Executed Criminal — Efficacy of Wayside Executions — Tardy Conversions — Mistaken CONTENTS. XVI Humanity — Summary Mode of Execution —The Palace of Asme Sultane— Entrance of the Harem— Costume of the Slaves— Nazip Hanoum — Ceremonious Reception— The Adopted Daughter—Cos tume of the Ladies of the Serai— Beauty of the Slaves—Extraordi nary Arrangement — Rejected Addresses — The Imperial Lover — Sacredness of Adoption in Turkey — Romantic Correspondence — Ladies of the Household — The Mother of the Slaves— Perousse Hanoum — Crowded Audience— The Imperial Odalique— Music of the Harem —The New Pet— The Kislar-Agha— Tlie " Light of the Harem "—The Poetical Sultan— Indisposition of the Sultana — The Palace Gardens— The Imperial Apartments — The Dancing Girl- Reluctant Departure — Ballad by Perousse Hanoum . 298

Chapter XVIII

Kahaitchana— The Barbyses— The Valley of the Sweet Waters— Imperial Procession — National Interdict —Picturesque Scene — The Princess Salihe and her Infant — Forbearance of the Sultan — The Toxopholites — Imperial Monopoly — Passion ofthe Sultan for Archery — Record-Columns — The Odalique's Grave — The Lost One — Azme Sultane — Imperial Courtesy — A Drive through the Valley 321

Chapter XIX

Easter with the Greeks — Greek Church at Pera — Women's Gallery — Interior of a Greek Church — The Sanctuary — The Screen — Throne ofthe Patriarch — The Holy Sepulchre — Singular Appearance of the Congregation — Sociability of the Ladies — L'Echelle des Morts — Shipping — Boats and Boatmen — Church of the Fanar — Ancient Screen — Treasure Chests — The Sanctuary — Private Chapels — A Pious Illumination — Priests' House — Prison — Remedy against Mahomedanism — Midnight Mass — Unexpected Greetings — The Patriarch — Logotheti — Russian Secretaries — Russian Supremacy in Turkey — Affinity of Religion between the Greeks and Russians — The Homage — Pious Confusion — Patriarch's Palace — Lovely Night- Scene — Midnight Procession — Serious Impressions — Suffocating Heat —Dawn ....... 332

Chapter XX

Feasting after Fasting — Visit to the Patriarch — Gorgeous Procession — Inconvenient Enthusiasm — Indisposition of the Patriarch — The Ceremony of Unrobing — The Impromptu Fair — The Patriarch at Home — The Golden Eggs . . . - . . 353

Chapter XXI

High Street of Pera — Dangers and Donkeys — Travelling in an Araba CONTENTS. XVII — Fondness of the Orientals for their Cemeteries — Singular Spectacle — Moral Supineness of the Armenians — M. Nubar — The Fair — Ar menian Dance — Anti-Exclusives — Water Venders — Being a la Franka— Wrestling Rings— The Battle of the Sects . 360

Chapter XXII

The Mosques at Midnight — Baron Rothschild — Firmans and Orders — A Proposition — Masquerading — St. Sophia by Lamplight — The Congregation — The Mosque of Sultan Achmet — Colossal Pillars — Return to the Harem— The Cheik-Islam— Count Bathiany— The Party— St. Sophia by Daylight — Erroneous Impression — Turkish Paradise — Piety of the Turkish Women — The Vexed Traveller — Disappointment — Confusion of Architecture — The Sweating Stone — Women's Gallery — View from the Gallery — Gog and Magog at Constantinople — The Impenetrable Door — Ancient Tradition — Leads of the Mosque — Gallery of the Dome — The Doves — The Atmeidan — The Tree of Groans — The Mosque of Sultan Achmet — Antique Vases — Historical Pulpit — The Inner Court — The Six Minarets— The Mosque of Solimanie — Painted W.indows — Ground-plan of the Principal Mosques — The Treasury of Solimanie — Mausoleum of Solyman the Magnificent— Model of the Mosque at Mecca ■ — Mausoleums in General — Indispensable Accessories — The Medresch — Mosque of Sultan Mahmoud at Topp-hanne .... 373

Chapter XXIII

Antiquities of Constantinople — Ismael Effendi — The Atmeidan — The Obelisk — The Delphic Tripod — The Column of Constantine — The Tchernberle Tasch — The Cistern of the Thousand and One Columns — The Boudroum — The Roman Dungeons — Yere-Batan-Sera'i — The Lost Traveller — Extent of the Cistern — Aqueduct of Justinian — Palace of Constantine — Tomb of Heraclius — The Seven Towers — An Ambassador iu Search of Truth — Tortures of the Prison — A Legend of the Seven Towers .... 405

Chapter XXIV

Baloucle — TheNew Church — Delightful Road — Eyoub — The Cemetery —The Rebel's Grave— The Mosque of Blood — The Hill of Graves —The Seven Towers— The Palace of Belisarius — The City Walls — Easter Festivities — The Turkish Araba — The Armenian Carriage — Travellers — Turkish Women — Seridjhes — Persians — Irregular Troops — The Plain of Baloucle — Laughable Mistake — Extraordinary Discretion — The Church of Baloucle — The Holy Well — Absurd Tradition — The Chapel Vault— Enthusiasm of the Greeks CONTENTS. — A Pleasant Draught — Greek Substitute for a Bell — Violent Storm 434

Chapter XXV

Figurative Gratitude of the Seraskier Pasha — Eastern Hyperbole — Reminiscences of Past Years— A Vision Realized — Strong Contrasts — The Marriage Fetes — Popular Excitement — Crowded Streets — The Auspicious Day — Extravagant Expectations — The Great Cemetery — Dolma Batche — The Grand Armoury — Turkish Women — Tents of the Pashas— The Bosphorus — Preparations — Invocation — The Illuminated Bosphorus— A Stretch of Fancy— A Painful Recollection — Natural Beauties of the Bosphorus — The Grave-Yard — Evening Amusements — Well Conducted Population . 446

CHAPTER XXVL

Repetition — The Esplanade — The Kiosk and the Pavilion — A Short Cut — Dense Crowd — A Friend at Court — Curious Coup d'Œil — The Arena — The Orchestra — First Act of the Comedy — ■ Disgusting Exhibition — The Birth ofthe Ballet — Dancing Boys — Second Act of the Drama — Insult to the Turkish Women — The Provost Marshal — Yusuf Pasha, the Traitor — Clemency of the Sultan — Forbearance of an Oriental Mot. — Renewal of the Ballet — Last Act of the Drama — Theatrical Decorations — Watch-dogs and Chinese — Procession of the Trades — Frank Merchants — Thieves and Judges — Bedouin Tumblers — Fondness of the Pashas for Dancing — The Wise Men of the East ....... 460

Chapter XXVII

Succession of Banquets — The Cheik Islam and the Clergy — Sectarian Prejudices— The Military Staff— The Naval Chiefs — The Imperial Household— The Pashas— The Grand Vizier — Magnificent Procession—Night Scene on the Bosphorus — The Palace of the Seraskier Pasha — Palace of Azme Sultane — Midnight Serenade — Pretty Truants—The Shore of Asia — Ambassadorial Banquet— War Dance Beautiful Effects of Light . . , 475

Chapter XXVIII

Monotonous Entertainments — Bridal Preparations— Common Interest —Appearance of the Surrounding Country — Ride to Arnautkeui Sight-loving Ladies— Glances and Greetings— Pictorial Grouping — The Procession—The Trousseau— A Steeple-Chase 488

CHAPTER XXXI.

The Bridal Day— Ceremony of Acceptance— The Crowd— The Kislar CONTENTS. XIX Agha and the Court Astrologer — Order of the Procession — The Russian Coach — The Pasha and the Attaches — The Seraskier — Wives of the Pashas — The Sultan and the Georgian Slave . 500

Chapter XXX

A New Rejoicing — Scholastic Processions — Change in the Valley — The Odalique's Grave — The Palace of Eyoub — The State Apartments — Return to Pera ..... ILLUSTRATIONS. VOL. I. PAGE Frontispiece. Chapel of the Turning Dervishes The Maiden's Tower Vignette Title-page. Military College 196 Palace of the Sweet Waters A Street in Pera 324 361 Column of Constantine and Egyptian Tripod The Seven Towers . 407 421 VOL. II. Yere Batan Serai . . . Frontispiece. Tower of Galata . . Vignette Title-page. Ruins of the Imperial Palace . . .28 Roman Bridge at Broussa . . 36 Roof of Oulou Jam. from the Garden of the Greek Church . 40 Turkish Mausoleum ... 53 The Seraglio Point . . . . .159 Part of the Valley of Guiuk-Suy . . . 244 Castle of Mahomet . 256 Column of Theodosius . . , 3gg View near Fanaraki, in Asia .... 40g THE CITY OF THE SULTAN.

Chapter I

The Golden Horn — Stamboul in Snow — The Serai Bournou — Scutari — Galata — First View of Constantinople — St. Sophia and Solimanie — Pera — Domestication of Aquatic Birds— Sounds at Sea — Caiques — Oriental Grouping — Armenian Costume — Reforms of Sultan Mahmoud — Dervishes — Eastern Jews — Evening — Illuminated Minarets — Romance versus Reason — Pain at Parting — Custom House of Galata — The East versus the West — Reminiscences of Marseillois Functionaries —The British Consul at Marseilles — The Light-house at Syra — The Frank Quarter — Diplomatic Atmosphere — Straw Huts — Care of the Turks for Animals — A Scene from Shakspeare. It was on the 30th of December, 1835, that we anchored in the Golden Horn ; my long-in dulged hopes were at length realized, and the Queen of Cities was before me, throned on her peopled hills, with the silver Bosphorus, gar landed with palaces, flowing at her feet !

It was with difficulty that I could drag my self upon deck after the night of intense suffer ing which I had passed in the sea of Marmora, and, when I did succeed in doing so, the vessel VOL. i. b STAMBOUL IN SNOW. was already under the walls of the Seraglio garden, and" advancing rapidly towards her anchorage. The atmosphere was laden with snow, and I beheld Stamboul for the first time clad in the ermine mantle of the sternest of sea sons. Yet, even thus, the most powerful feeling that unravelled itself from the chaos of sensa tions which thronged upon me was one of un alloyed delight. How could it be otherwise ? I seemed to look on fairy-land — to behold the embodiment of my wildest visions — to be the denizen of a new world. Queenly Stamboul! the myriad sounds of her streets came to us mellowed by the distance ; and, as we swept along, the whole glory of her princely port burst upon our view !

The gilded palace of Mahmoud, with its glittering gate and overtopping cypresses, among which may be distinguished the buildings of the Serai', were soon passed; behind us, in the distance, was Scutari, looking down in beauty on the channel, whose waves reflected the graceful outline of its tapering minarets, and shrouded themselves for an instant in the dark shadows of its funereal grove. Galata was beside us, with its mouldering walls and warlike memories ; and the vessel trembled as the chain fell heavily into the water, and we anchored in the midst of the crowd of shipping that already thronged the harbour. On the opposite shore clustered the painted dwel- VIEW OF CONSTANTINOPLE. lings of Constantinople, the party-coloured gar ment of the " seven hills " — the tall cypresses that overshadowed her houses, and the stately plane trees, which more than rivalled them in beauty, bent their haughty heads beneath the weight of accumulated snows.

Here and there, a cluster of graceful minarets cut sharply against the sky ; while the ample dome of the mosque to which they belonged, and the roofs of the dwellings that nestled at their base, lay steeped in the same chill livery. Eagerly did I seek to distinguish those of St. Sophia, and the smaller but far more elegant Solimanie, the shrine of the Prophet's Beard, with its four minarets, and its cloistered courts ; and it was not without reluctance that I turned away, to mark where the thronging houses of Pera clomb with magnificent profusion the amphitheatre of hills which dominate the treasure-laden port. As my gaze wandered along the shore, and, passing by the extensive grove of cypresses that wave above the burying-ground, once more followed the course ofthe Bosphorus, I watched the waves as they washed the very foundation of the dwellings that skirt it, until I saw them chafing and struggling at the base of the barrack of Topp-hanne, and at intervals flinging themselves high into the air above its very roof.