Life, Scenery, and Customs in Sierra Leone and the Gambia

Front matter

HISTORY AND BIOGRAPHY. MEMOIRS OF THE REIGNS OF EDWARD VI. AND MARY. By Patrick Fraser Tytler. 2 vols., Svo., 24s. NAVAL HISTORY OF GREAT BRITAIN, with a Continuation of the History to the Present Time. By W. James. 6 vols., Svo., 54s. MEMOIRS OF THE REIGN OF GEORGE THE THIRD. By Hoiutio, Loud Orford. Edited, with Notes, by Sir Denis Le Marchant, Bart. 4 vols., Svo., 5Gs. BENTLEY'S COLLECTIVE EDITION OF THE LETTERS OF HORACE WAI.POLE. G vols., 63s. LETTERS TO SIR HORACE MANN. By Horace Walbole. Second Seties. 4 vols., Svo., 5(is. CHARACTERISTIC SKETCHES OF ENGLISH SOCIETY, POLITICS, ANU LITERATURE, comprised in a Series ok Letters to the Countess of Ossorv. By Horace WAtroiE. Edited by the Right Hon. It. Vernon Smith, M.P. 2 vols., Svo., 30s. MEMOIRS OF THE COORT OF ENGLAND DURING THE REIGN OF THE STUARTS.

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Preface

. The following narrative is little more than a transcript of my Journal, kept for private re ference, and which was not originally intended for the press. It has been my aim through out to give a faithful delineation of Life, Customs, and Manners in this interesting Colony, so far as my own personal experience extended. London, November, 1850. page 1 6 CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Feelings on leaving England for Africa. — Preparations for sailing. — Parting with my family. — Troubles in Dock. — Last night, and miseries on board. — At last fairly off .

Chapter II

View of the English coast down Channel. — Peak of Teneriffe. — Cape Blanco, and beautiful phosphoric ap pearance of the sea. — A calm and its disagreeables. — Land visible. — Bullom shore and cape. — The Carpenter rocks. — Danger and folly of not employing pilots. — First interesting view of Free-town, Sierra Leone. — Past dan gers and troubles. — Pleasure of arrival, and appearance of the harbour. — The landing-place ; its animated scene. — Fishers. — Lower Commissariat store, and bustling life on the wharf. — Meetings and greetings on board. — Landing and first acquaintances .......

Chapter III

First night on shore. — Morning beverage. — Coolness of the air. — Delightful situation of my first abode. — The Parade ground and Fort. — Unprotected and dangerous CONTENTS. VI page state of the Parade ground.— Appearance of this spot at this early hour— Character of men, women, and children ; their dress, occupation, and articles of sale.— Greegrees, or charms.— Women, and their curious method of carry ing, or totting, such things as bottles and basins on their heads.— Their singular and unnatural use of the hand.— Partiality of the men for guns and weapons.— A group of Natives at ease.— Breakfast.— The Piazza ; the idle hour, and evil of the " open house" system . • • • ••',

Chapter IV

Government house.— Money expended on it.— Approach to it ; interior.— Fine prospect from the piazza- Introductory interview with Mr. Fergusson, the governor, and remarks on appointments.— Career and rise of Mr. FeroTisson to the governorship. — Anecdote of him. — First specimen of a long residence in Sierra Leone . . .27

Chapter V

Chaplaincy duties. — Obstacles to usefulness. — First visit to the Gaol. — Interior of the prison yard. — General appearance of prisoners.— Prison building.— Want of order and discipline. — Female prisoners. — Anecdote illustrat ing female character of Natives. — The Police and their in efficiency. — Gaol officers, and remarks on their efficiency for their duties.— Behaviour of prisoners at Divine service 35

Chapter VI

Effect of climate on the spirits, and remedy in change of scene. — Wilberforce and Regent. — A character. — Sessions and unceremonious way of judicial proceed- CONTENTS. VII page ings.— Court business. — Crimes. — Prevalency of theft. — A reflection. — Mode of punishment and chain gang. — Necessity of severe measures against stealing. — Cases of theft, and clever cross-examination, by a Native, of a witness, charged with the offence. — Bob Krew, the no torious thief and African Jack Ketch ; anecdotes of him . .,4

Chapter VII

Williams the penitent murderer. — A reflection. — Last hours in prison. — Contrast of character in another murderer. — Mode of executions, and some remarks thereon. — The executioner's way of disfiguring himself. — Interest manifested in the case of Williams, and feeling against his female accomplice. — Popular error in respect to the execution of women. — What the effect of the punishment of death in tending to the diminution of crime in Sierra Leone .......... 73

Chapter VIII

Streets. — Houses. — Water-street. — Sea-view from the piazzas. — The Market-place. — Custom-house. — Police office. — Fish-market. — The shark; boy killed by one while swimming near King-town. — The Colonial Church, St. George's. — Enormous expenditure in its building. — Strano-e mistake in the Commandments within the altar railings. — Pews. — First time of officiating at St. George's, and my feelings on the occasion 92

Chapter IX

Free-town by moonlight. — Brief account of King Tom's, the Wesleyan Missionary establishment. — The Church CONTENTS. PAGE Missionary college, and some remarks on education.— The party at sea.— A living character.— The card-table, and a piece of good fortune.— Supper-table.— Eloquence, and separation

Chapter X

The slavery question mooted. — Consequences of the at tempts to abolish slavery not sufficiently examined in de tail.—The present system in use to suppress it, productive of increased sufferings to the slaves.— Inducements to the trade the same. — Increased misery to the slaves when their captors are pursued.— Their ill-treatment be fore being shipped.— Slavery carried on in Free-town, or its vicinity.— Proofs of this fact.— The success of the Intervention system but partial. — This proved from the chances of escape. — Anecdote of a successful stratagem in evading capture. — Proposed means of abolishing the slave trade. — Interesting recognition of a brother by a young slave brought into Free-town.— Adjudication system considered. — Illicit attempts to dissuade from emigration. — Closing remarks 1*26

Chapter XI

Imposing effect from the fruit-trees about the town. — Unhealthiness from numerous small lots and overgrown succulents ; proposed remedy. — Filthy habits of Natives, and necessity of strict regulations for observance of cleanliness. — Dilapidated houses. — Stores and grog-shops. — Melancholy examples of the effects of dram-drinking. — To what extent intemperate habits prevail. — Most frequent and fatal with English merchant sailors. — Fatal case of the Captain with whom I first sailed to Sierra Leone. — Total abstinence from any fermented liquors not prudent in such a climate as Sierra Leone .... CONTENTS. IX PAGE

Chapter XII

Sameness of daily life. — Means of relief in change of scenery. — A ride to Godrich ; Kroo-town. — A remarkable natural object ; the white-necked Crow. — Street occupations ; curious medley of goods and natural products. — Kroomen's tastes and habits ; their fancy for flags. — Chapel. — Dangerous state of Bridge at the end of Kroo town. — View from it. — African laundresses, and their mode of washing.— Ride to King Tom's. — An agreeable friend. — Ride round the Point. — An evening to be re gretted. — The romantic grave, and faithful dog. — Coal shed, garden, flowers, night-moth and night-bird. — Pupils. ■ — Evening devotions . . . . . . .164

Chapter XIII

Ride to Wilberforce. — The Ferry. — Method of crossing it — New Bridge. — View from it. — Fishes. — Ascent of the road. — Prospect. — Gardens. — Rice-birds and their nests. — Road to Lomley. — Progress of cultivation. — The wise providence of Nature shown. — The twin trees. — Lomley. — The village constable. — A Night in native town quarters, and rustic supper ....... 180

Chapter XIV

Disagreeable companions. — Crossing the Creek, and water sights. — Alligators; native ideas about them. — A friend's fears. — Use made of the alligator's flesh. — Con tinuation of journey and localities. — The "squatting" system considered. — Swamps. — The Waterfall. — The village of Fonchia. — Occupations, amusements, customs. — Idolatry and indolence of the men. — Godrich. — Its approach. — The Market shed.— My quarters. — Retirement X CONTENTS. page 191 209 of the spot.— Contrivances. — Morning beverage and bathing.—Pine fruit ; parasite plants ; prolificness of Nature. —Colour of the sea-water at a certain season.— Sea-gulls, — Bush fires.— The African pedagogue and Native avarice — A walk. — A storm, and scenery whilst it lasted .

Chapter XV

A visitor. — Reflections on retirement.— Inconveniences. — Stupidity of servants. — Short commons. — " Papa," or Pilot Elliott and his visit. — Native cookery.— An odd say ing. — Superstition. — Return to Free-town. — The old sol dier, and a bit of rivalry. — Sherbro hamlet. — Sherbro village. — Canoes. — Fine sands. — Palm-trees, their beauty and utility.— The Cape. — "Papa's" house. — An ad venture, and narrow escape. — Light-house. — Marooning spot, and mournful recollections. — Aberdeen. — The Creek. — Dan ger from quicksands, and accident. — Natural objects. — The snake. — The "Bug-a-bug" hills. — Lizards and cha meleons. — A lizard fight. — The black ant, and its destructive powers. — The African wasp. — Bees ; swarming in the cupboard ........

Chapter XVI

Visit to Regent, and view of Free-town from the ascent of the road as you go to Gloucester. — Burial-ground and neglected state of it. — The village of Gloucester ; Regent. — The Missionary Clergyman's residence. — First glass windows. — The Church. — Old buildings and old doings. — The Market house. — The day School. — The first Church Missionary institution at Regent. — Governor M'Carthy's times. — Prosperous course of missionary labour here. — Native superstition. — Interesting anecdote of Native anxiety to learn. — The Sugar loaf and height of it. — Lei- CONTENTS. XI 262 PAGE cester mountain.— An excursion to the Sugar loaf.— The party.— The bivouac at friend Thomas's.— The ascent up it.— Its top.— View from it.— The hour of refreshment— Proofs of loyalty.— The wild stranger.— The descent, and close of the day's pleasure.— Sad mistake . . .229

Chapter XVII

Ride to Bathurst and Charlotte.— Missionary house and Church at Bathurst.— Manager's house at Charlotte- Reflections.— Village churchyards. — Funerals. — Unbecoming manner of removing corpses from lodging-houses. — Some suggestions on the subjects .... 254

Chapter XVIII

Subject of Funerals continued.— Sad accident from ex plosion of rockets. — Opinions on climate. — Provisions against sickness. — Medical departments. — Hospitals and Lunatic asylum. — My first fever. — Effects of it on mind and body. — Some suggestions about leave of absence

Chapter XIX

Some singular features in my first illness. — Inducing causes to fever, and remarks thereon. — The social con dition of the colony hostile to mental quietude and therefore to health. — Society generally considered . . . 278

Chapter XX

Private residences. — Improvements in building. — Dan ger from the present practice of roofing huts and small houses. — The Race course. — Road to the village of Kissy ; CONTENTS. PAGE Kissy village. — Reflections. — Village children. — Bush fires. — Waterfall. — Village burial places, and reflections on them. — Neglect of Pagan liberated Africans in their sepultures —The hospital at Kissy. — Lunatics. — Military hospital, its supervision and arrangements. — Reflections upon it as a sphere of ministerial labour.. — Capabilities of the African for a soldier's profession — Garrison schools. — Want of elementary books. — Discipline and state of the soldiers

Chapter I. Feelings On Leaving England For Africa

PREPARATIONS FOR SAILING. PARTING WITH MT FAMILY. TROUBLES IN DOCK. LAST NIGHT, AND MISERIES ON BOARD. AT LAST FAIRLY OFF. It was in the year 1845 that I embarked for that part of the world, not less infamous for its nefarious traffic in slavery than proverbial for the deadly unhealthiness of its climate. My feelings on this occasion were probably those of most other men who are proceeding to such a place as Sierra Leone, so fatal to Europeans, and not inappropriately called by a resident there, " a lovely charnel-house." For I must inform my reader, that the country is no less remarkable for a peculiar kind of beautiful scenery than its hostility to human life. Great, therefore, as my curiosity might be to see the Western Coast of Africa, it was not without mingled sensations of hope and VOL. I. b fear that I took leave of my native country, and bade farewell to those, with whom I might never again, perhaps, exchange the pleasures of friendship or endearments of home.

I had naturally enough cherished the hope that, after five years' exposure to a tropical sun in the Bahamas, where duties of the most arduous and trying nature had wrought their severe effects on my constitution, I should have enjoyed some little rest and tranquillity in Old England ; but a new and more extensive field of usefulness appeared in the designs of Providence to await me; and although not very credulous in attaching more than ordinary importance to the common casualties of life, I could not help attributing some weight to the circumstance connected with my appointment to the chaplaincy on the coast ; as it had been already, on a former occasion, in my power to have accepted it, but was then consi dered by me little better than a stepping-stone into an unnatural grave. Glad, however, as I should have been to have had but a brief enjoyment of the otium cum digni tate in Europe for a few months, I remained in England only a few weeks ; and then, in obedience to orders, took my passage for what has been called by one, who has himself fulfilled his own saying, " The White Man's Grave."

I cabined LAST EVENING IN ENGLAND. 3 myself, accordingly, in a dirty, heavy timber vessel, called the Soundraporvy, in the month of August, being the only passenger; but cheered by the hope, that, whatever might befal me, my expe rience — which, by the by, had been dearly bought — of the mode of thinking and feeling among the negro population and black troops (to whom I had been schoolmaster and chaplain), as well as their general habits and character, would fit me, in some degree, for the difficult work I had volun teered. Oh, how well do I remember the last evening which I passed in England at that time ! " Ah ! why look back, though all is left behind ?" True, the bitterness of parting with my family was over — my last token of love to them was a kiss impressed on the innocent brow of my sleeping and unconscious infant, whom I should have deemed it an act of selfishness to have allowed even the tear that was gathering in my eye to awake.

I had, too, passed through the heart trying ordeal of bidding adieu to a few old and long-endeared friends. But my patience had yet to be tried before I fairly started. It was not until the time for passing the lug gage was " up " that I gained the London Docks, where the vessel was anchored in the Basin. c After considerable delay, and "much ado about nothing," on the part of the porter, in suffering my " traps" to be moved forward with me, I succeeded in overweighing his scruples by simply telling him that, with or without them I must go ; but as they contained Government documents which must be delivered by myself to the proper authorities on my landing, he might do as he pleased. So saying, I moved forwards ; my punctilious friend yielded, either moved by my stoical indifference, or judging there was no chance of a crown, which I was too old a traveller to be fool enough to give him.

" Tricks upon travellers " in dock, are not a no velty ; but every one does not know this. At last, I was on board the craft which was soon to bear me far away ; and no situation could be much more deplorable than mine, that night. Only one miserable creature was on deck; cook, or mate, or what he was, I knew not. Nothing could be procured to eat or drink : but I was both hungry and thirsty, for I had been about all day. Every thing was in disorder ; it was a perfect picture of confusion; and my berth was filthy, and full of rubbish. In vain I tried, like a sound philosopher, to reconcile myself to my lot by walking, as well as I could, about the deck, then down into the cabin, then into my dormitory, then counting the minutes, ticking on to the hour when the captain MASTER OF THE VESSEL. 5 was to make his appearance.

At last, I threw myself on my mattress, and had just fidgeted my self into a half-sleep, when the master of the ves sel made his appearance. He bore about him all the characteristics of a good-natured, burly sea man, sadly alive to the possibility of getting an African fever, should he succeed in taking us into port. But I was glad of his company. Loneli ness, under circumstances such as I was placed in, was too trying ; and, as my appetite had been for some time very uneasy, I readily accepted what he ferreted out for a supper. Having done ample justice to the homely fare, I betook myself to my berth, and did not open my eyes until we were out of the basin the next morning. Then I was started on deck by the clanking of chains and hollowing of sailors, to see several handkerchiefs waving to us, as we quietly slipped through the flood-gates into the bed of the river, down whose stream a gentle yet favouring breeze took us soon into the Downs.

Chapter II. View Of The English Coast Down Channel

— PEAK OF TENERIFFE. CAPE BLANCO, AND BEAUTIFUL PHOSFHORIC APPEARANCE OF THE SEA. — A CALM AND ITS DISAGREEABLES. — LAND VISIBLE. — BULLOM SHORE AND CAPE. — THE CARPEN- TER ROCKS. — DANGER AND FOLLY OF NOT EMPLOYING PILOTS. — FIRST INTERESTING VIEW OF FREE-TOWN, SIERRA LEONE. — PAST DANGERS AND TROUBLES. PLEASURE OF ARRIVAL, AND APPEARANCE OF THE HARBOUR. THE LANDING-PLACE J ITS ANIMATED SCENE. — FISHERS. LOWER COMMISSARIAT STORE, AND BUSTLING LIFE ON THE WHARF. — MEETINGS AND GREETINGS ON BOARD. — LANDING AND FIRST ACQUAINTANCES. The passage was a dull and unvarying scene of little more than sea and sky. We were favoured with a beautiful, but transient view of the English coast, rich in all its variety of hill and dale, of woodland and pasture. And as it was harvest time, the fields derived additional interest from the sheaves of corn, which studded them in pleasing regularity — the golden promise of many an anxious month and hard day's toil !

Soon we found ourselves on the wilderness of waters ; and, excepting a distant sight of the Salvage Islands, saw nothing of interest but the Peak of Teneriffe. PEAK OF TENERIFFE. 7 The sight of this magnificent mountain, however, most amply repaid us for the want of other ob jects of attraction. Nothing could be more im posing in effect. Although distant from us — quite as far as twelve or fourteen miles — it opened upon us from within its cloudy mantling with all the grandeur and yet beauty which immortalize it. And, then, it was set off by the brilliancy of a morning sun, and the exquisite colouring of a light, blue, unclouded sky. The weather was very fine, so we were able to coast near the land, and thus had an opportunity of seeing this wonder of the natural world, with all its diversified and highly picturesque objects, to the greatest advantage.

The churches and houses, intersected by the lovely vineyards and verdant slopes, were distinctly visible ; and the continual variations of light and shade, caused by the alternations of the clouds, passing across and repassing the Peak in quick succession, threw around the whole a charm which no description can realize. After losing sight of this noble mountain and its localities, we obtained an indistinct view of Cape Blanco ; but it was scarcely visible, owing to a thick haze which enveloped it. In a day or two Cape Verde rose above the waters. It was at this progress of our passage that I be held the waves illumined to a very high degree by the phosphoric light. The night was unusually dark, and the waves were high and broken. As far as the eye could see around us, the mighty waters were like one rolling mass of liquid fire.

And now it was that the outline of the Western Coast began to show itself. Novelty gives to objects, for the most part, in themselves of trifling character, a power of attraction and interest which they would not otherwise possess ; but my curiosity was far from being increased by the first opportunity of gratifying it. It was a mere out line of the country I saw, nothing more than a long, narrow extremity of the main land, jutting out into the sea, and presenting but a few scat tered palms and dwarf trees, with some low bush. Nor were we in a position very favourable to the enjoyment of that pleasure which fresh scenes generally produce in the mind. For, fixed as though at anchor, by one of those calms so com mon off the shore in these seas, the vessel rested on the still and almost motionless waters with just enough of action to let us know our passage was not over.

The misery of such a situation no one can form an idea of who has not himself been in a like dilemma. The sails of the ship were lazily, yet restlessly flapping backwards and forwards; the pitch was oozing out of the seams of the deck ; and we were all panting and gasping like fish out THE BINANAS. 9 of water. The sea was remarkably clear and bright, and showed beneath its glassy surface objects at a depth scarcely credible. It was my misfortune to be without a fellow-traveller: so that I was in a great measure left to my own resources to wile away the tedious hours. The captain, poor fellow, was evidently too much engaged in his own melancholy apprehensions of fevers and salivations, although an old voyager in these parts, to be communicative or amusing. His bacchanalian mate was quite as useless — his con tinual occupation and delight appearing to be how he might most effectually anticipate what the mas ter so much dreaded by his strong and repeated potations.

Fortunately, a light breeze springing up in our favour, our spirits freshened with the wind ; and the captain himself seemed to forget for a while his fears, in the anticipation of soon reach ing his destination. The appearance of the land, as we continued to make way, now became gradually more marked and diversified ; it disclosed elevations with their levels, and some high and richly wooded country in the back ground. As we gained upon it, bold and spirited irregularities became prominent, until the Binanas, the health-spot of Sierra Leone, the Bullom shore and Cape, soon gave promise that before long, unless beset again by a calm, no un- B usual disappointment, we should be free from the dangers of the sea, whatever we might have to encounter in those on land. But the Carpenter Rocks are visible !

The breakers are dashing wildly and ominously over them !— How they roar and pounce in fearful sport over and over, forming broken and foamy ridges, until they die away on the shore ! Let the mariner look out well for these ; for right up to them the water is treacherously deep. Ordinary care and prudence will preserve him from wrecking his vessel; but the knowledge of impending danger does not always make men the more cautious, as in this instance. Notwithstanding experience has taught persons the absolute need there is of the greatest precaution in approaching the harbour of Free-town, an illiberal disposition and ill-judged thriftiness, or, what is still worse, a culpable fool-hardiness, has in more than a single instance, induced some to risk life and property, solely becase they would evade putting a trifle into the pockets of the pilots, who well deserve their hard earnings.

The appearance of Sierra Leone and Free-town, which may appropriately be called its metropolis, strikes any one very forcibly by its novel style of scenery as he enters the harbour. He sees a real panorama of a singular, yet beautiful kind, pos- APPEARANCE OF FREE-TOWN. 11 sessing a character, as I have heard many expe rienced travellers observe, which is scarcely to be met with elsewhere. It was about five p.m., when, to my satisfaction, I heard the anchor drop into the water ; and never did any human creature, I believe, experience more heart-felt relief than I did at the sound ; for no agreeable prospect had been before me the whole passage. What with the melancholy of the captain, and the half kind of torpidity which affected the mate, from his con tinual potations, besides the smoking to which the latter was equally given, I had some ground for apprehension when I recollected that the Soundra porvy was laden with an undue proportion of gunpowder, not very carefully stowed away.

But these disagreeable feelings yielded to others of a more pleasing nature, when I found that our passage was ended. I was charmed with the first sight of the colony. The harbour was well filled with vessels of every description, men-of-war, merchant ships, steamers, small craft, canoes ; flags of many nationalities, and slavers condemned or only waiting for adjudication. Free-town, which is built on a line with, and extends down to the beach, appeared to great advantage from the spot where we were moored. The landing-place, which you ascend by a flight of ten or twelve steps, was full of animation and bustle. Here all the important business of land ing goods, receiving passengers, and conducting the numerous minutiae of colonial matters is trans acted. Here goods are searched, and duties determined for the Custom ; soldiers and sailors, merchants and clerks, half-dressed Kroomen and unclothed children, chattering women and wrang ling boatmen, throng this rendezvous of humanity.

An unsightly mass of rock-stones piled one on the other, at a little distance from the land in the form of a curve, serves as a breakwater. On the top of these were seated several lanky legged, tall, native children, uncovered, yet indif ferent to the oven-heat of their hard seats, and idly fishing for a dinner, or to get some halfpence, which are better known to them by the name of " coppers." When on the landing-place, you see before you a large and lofty building, which is the Quarters of the junior officers of the commissariat : the lower part and first story contain the stores; the up per apartments, like most of the other buildings in their construction, form the central rooms. These are dull and dreary enough, and are generally used as sleepingrooms; but a lengthy and spacious piazza surrounds them; and this is un questionably the only agreeable and habitable place fit for a rational being to occupy.

From this there is a fine commanding view of the har- COMMISSARIAT STORE. 13 bour and the sea. It has been pronounced un healthy ; but why, it is perhaps difficult to say. I am rather inclined to think that it has been coveted for a colonial purpose, and for that reason has been declared to be unfit for occupation ; I can only say, I wish I had quarters half as good. As seen from on board a vessel in the harbour, this part of the town is an imposing object of curiosity and interest. Besides that it is the nucleus of persons of all characters, and every colour, as well as of all kinds of occupation, from the idle, cigar smoking, store-house clerk, who has more impu dence than manners, and less honesty, frequently, than good sense, to the third-rate gossiping official who deems himself on a par with the formidable pair of epaulettes and the cocked-hat; it is also, the starting-place for boats and canoes, which are always to be seen pushing off with emulous rivalry, the moment a vessel is signalized.