A Woman's Journey round the World ... Illustrated, etc

Front matter

THE NATIONAL ILLUSTRATED LIBRARY, IN MONTHLY VOLUMES, CONTAINING 320 PAGES AND 60 ENGRAVINGS. Price 2s. 6d. fop. 8vo, handsomely bound in cloth, top edgea gUt s ■*\ 2 > "wiTd adventure mat cannot ian to usionisii me reaupi. — neuauiy menrary. The author of this wc.fk seems to have treated tlie subject with fairness and impartiality, and the publishers have added the attractions of excellent typography and nicely-excouted woodcuts.— Nottingham Journal. A narrative of these extraordinary and unaccountable beings will be found to posseis far greater interest than is generally supposed.^Reading Mercury. The Orbs of Heaven ; or the Planetary and Stellar Worlds : a popular Exposition ofthe great Discoveries and Theories of Modern Astronomy. Illustrated with Nebulæ, Portraits, Views, Diagrams, &c. The subject, indeed, is a theme for eloquence.

Like other works of the k;nd Mr. Mitchell's book is likely to have an extended popularity ,— 'Economist* NATIONAI ILLUSTRATED LIBRARY. Pictures of Travels in the South of France. From the French of ALEXANDER DUMAS. Fifty spirited Engravings on Wood. Tlie *-reat charm of these impressions, however, is their off-hand cleverness, and the lively ease with which the story slows.— Atlas. Full of interest, — historical incidents, anecdotes, &c. — Glasgow Post. Unabridged Edition. Hue's Travels in Tartary, Thibet, and China, in 1844, 5, and 6. Translated by W. HAZLITT. Vol. I. (to be completed in two volumes), with numerous Daguerreotyped Illustrations, and a Map of the above Countries, with the Route of the Travellers MM. Hue and Gabet clearly indicated. M. Hue is a most agreeahle narrator. AVe give our readers a specimen of this really charming book, though it is one which most of our readers will he sure to purchase and treasure up for themselves.

We could fill columns with amusing extracts, but it is best to send our readers to the book itself.— Daily News. The National Illustrated Library of which these Travels form the ninth volume, is without a rival in the beauty of its engravings and the extreme lowness of its price. The Travels in Tartary, Thibet, and China, form an extraordinary narrative of events which befel MM. Gabet and Hue, two Lazarists. The work was published in Paris by M. Hue, and is now translated for the benefit of the English public, by whom we hope it will he generally read. — York Herald. On the 1st of January, A Woman's Journey round the World. Translated from the German of Madame PFEIFFER. In One Volume. Unabridged Edition. Illustrated with full-size page Engravings, printed in two tints. VOLUMES IN PREPARATION.

Preface

. I hate been called, in many of the public journals, a " professed tourist ; " but I am sorry to say that I have no title to the appel lation in its usual sense. On the one hand, I possess too little wit and humour to render my writings amusing ; and, on the other, too little knowledge to judge rightly of what I have gone through. The only gift to which I can lay claim is that of nar rating in a simple manner the different scenes in which I have played a part, and the different objects I have beheld; if I ever pronounce an opinion, I do so merely on my own personal ex perience. Many will perhaps believe that I undertook so long a journey from vanity. I can only say in answer to this — whoever thinks so should make such a trip himself, in order to gain the con viction, that nothing but a natural wish for travel, a boundless desire of acquiring knowledge, could ever enable a person to overcome the hardships, privations, and dangers to which I have been exposed.

In exactly the same manner as the artist feels an invincible desire to paint, and the poet to give free course to his thoughts, so was I hurried away with an unconquerable wish to see the I-REFACE. world. Ill my youth I dreamed of travelling — in my old age I find amusement in reflecting on what I have beheld. The public received very favourably my plain unvarnished account of " A Voyage to the Holy Land, and to Iceland and .Scandinavia." Emboldened by their kindness, I once more step forward with the journal of my last and most considerable voyage, and I shall feel content if the narration of my adventures procures for my readers only a portion of the immense fund of pleasure derived from the vovage bv THE AUTHORESS. Vienna, March 16, 1850. With the hope that we may forward the views of the authoress, and be the means of exciting the public attention to her position and wants, we append the following statement by Mr. A. Petermann, which appeared in the Athenæum of the 6th of December, 1851 : — • "Madame Pfeiffer came to London last April, with the intention of undertaking a fresh journey ; her love of travelling appearing not only un abated, but even augmented by the success of her journey round the world.

She had planned, as her fourth undertaking, a journey to some of those portions of the globe which she had not yet visited— namely, Australia and the islands of the Asiatic Archipelago ; intending to proceed thither by the n.ual route round the Cape. Her purpose was, however, changed while in London. The recently discovered Lake Ngami, in Southern Africa, and tho interesting region to the north, towards the equator — the reflection how successfully she had travellcl among savage tribes, where armed men TREFACE. V hesitated to penetrate, how well she had born alike the cold of Iceland and the heat of Babylonia— and lastly, the suggestion that she might be destined to raise the veil from some ot tho totally unknown portions of the interior of Africa — made her determine on stopping at the Cape, and trying to proceed thence, if possible, northwards into the equatorial regions of the African Continent.

" Madame Pfeiffer left for the Cape, on the 22nd of May last, in a sailing vessel — her usual mode of travelling by sea, steamboats being too expensive. She arrived safely at Cape Town on the 11th of August, as I learned from a letter which I received from her last week, dated the 20th of August. From that letter the following arc extracts : — " ' The impression which this place (Cape Town) made on me, was not an agreeable one. The mountains surrounding the town are bare, the town it self (London being still fresh in my recollection) resembles a village. The houses are of only one story, with terraces instead of roofs. From the deck of the vessel a single tree was visible, standing on a hill. In short, on my arrival I was at once much disappointed, and this disappointment rather in creases than otherwise.

In the town the European mode of living is entirely prevalent — more so than in any other place abroad that I have seen. I have made a good many inquiries as to travelling into the interior ; and have been, throughout, assured that the natives are everywhere kindly dis posed to travellers, and that as a woman I should be able to penetrate much farther than a man,— and I have been strongly advised to undertake a journey as far as the unknown lakes, and even beyond. Still, with all these splendid prospects and hopes, I fear I shall travel less in this country than in any other. Here, the first thing you are told is, that you must purchase waggons, oxen, horses, asses, — hire expensive guides, &c, -See. How far should I reach in this way with my £100 sterling ? I will give you an example of the charges in this country : — for the carriage of my little luggage to my lodgings I had to pay 10s. 6d. !

I had previously landed in what I thought the most expensive places in the world — London, Calcutta, Canton, &c. — had everywhere a much greater distance to go from the vessel to my lodgings, and nowhere had I paid half of what they charged me here. Board and lodging I have also found very dear. Fortunately, I have been VI

PREFACE.

. very kindly received into the house of Mr. Thaewitzer, the Hamburgh con sul, where I live very agreeably, but do not much advance the object which brought me here. I shall, in the course of the month, undertake a short journey with some Dutch boers to Klein -Williams ; and I fear that this will form the beginning and the end of my travels in this country.' "From these extracts it will be seen that the resolute lady has at her command but very slender means for the performance of her journeys. The sum of f 100, which was granted to her by the Austrian government, forms the whole of her funds. Private resources she has none. It took her twenty years to save enough money to perform her first journey ! — namely, that to the Holy Land. WTiile in London, she received scarcely any encourage ment ; and her works were not appreciated by the public, or indeed known, till she had left this country.

It is to be regretted that the want of a little pecuniary assistance should deter the enterprising lady from carrying out her projected journey in Southern Africa. Though not a scientific traveller, she is a faithful recorder of what she sees and hears ; and she is prepared to note the bearings and distances of the journey, make meteorological observations, and keep a careful diary — so that the results of her projected journey would perhaps be of as much interest as those of other travellers of greater pretensions." CONTENTS. CHAPTER T. The Voyage to the Brazils. PACE Departure from Vienna— Stay in Hamburgh— Steamers and Sailing Vessels — Departure from Hamburgh— Cuxhaven— The British Channel— Flying-fish — The Phisolida — Constellations — Passing the Line — The "Vamperos" — A Gale and Storm — Cape Trio — Arrival in the Port of Pao Janeiro . . . 1-14

Chapter II

Arrival and Sojourn in Rio Janeiro. Introduction— Arrival — Description of the Town— The Blacks, and their Relations to the Whites — Arts and Sciences — Festivals of the Church — Baptism ofthe Imperial Princess— Fete in the Barracks— Climate and Vegetation — 3Ianners and Customs — A Few Words to Emigrants 15-28

Chapter III

Excursions in the Neighbourhood of Rio Janeiro. The Waterfalls near Teschuka— Boa Vista— The Botanical Gardens and their Environs — The Corcovado Mountains, 2,253 feet above the level of the Sea — Palaces of the Imperial Family— The newly-founded German Colony of Petropolis— Attempt at Murder, by a Marroon negro 29-36

Chapter IV

Journey into the Interior of the Brazils. The Towns of Morroqueimado (Novo Friburgo) and Aldea do Pedro — Plantations of the Europeans — Burning Forests— Last Settlement of the Whites— Visit to the Indians, also called Puris or Rabocles — Return to Rio Janeiro . . 37-J2

Chapter V

The Voyage round Cape Horn. Departure from Rio Janeiro — Santos and St. Paulo — Circumnavigation of Cape Horn— The Straits of Magellan— Arrival in Valparaiso— Sth December, 1846, to 2nd March, 18-47 53-G2

Chapter VI

Arrival and Residence in Valparaiso. Appearance of the Town— Public Buildings— A few Observations on the Manners and Customs of the Lower Classes— The Eating-houses of Polanka— The Cherub (Angelito)— The Railroad— Gold and Stiver Mines .... G3-G9 CONTENTS.

Chapter VII

The Voyage from Valparaiso to Canton, via Tahiti. p&oi Departure from Valparaiso— Tahiti— Manners and Customs of the People— Fete and Ball in Honour of Louis Philippe— Excursions— A Tahitian Dinner— The Lake Vaihiria— The Defile of Fantaua and the Diadem— Departure- Arrival in China 70-33

Chapter VIII

China. Macao— Hong-Kong— Victoria— Voyage on board a Chinese Junk— The Si-Kiang, called also the Tigris— Whampoa— Canton, or Kuangtschcu-fu — Mode of Life pursued by Europeans — The Chinese Manners and Customs— Criminals and Pirates — Murder of Vauchee — Promenades and Excursions . . . 89-11.5

Chapter IX

The East Indies— Singapore. Arrival in Hong-Kong— The English Steamer— Singapore Plantations— A Hunting Party in the Jungle— A Chinese Funeral— The Feast of Lanterns— Temperature and Climate 1 1G— 127

Chapter X

The East Indies— Ceylon. Departure from Singapore— The Island of Pining— Ceylon— Pointe de Galle— Excursion into the Interior— Colombo— Candy — The Temple of Dagoha— Elephant Hunt— Return to Colombo and Pointe de Galle .... 128-138

Chapter XI

Madras and Calcutta. Departure from Ceylon— Madras— Calcutta— Mode of Life of the Europeans — The Hindoos— Principal Objects of Interest in the Town — Visit to a Baboo — Religious Festivals of the Hindoos— nouses of Death and Places for Burning the Dead— Mahomedan and European Marriage Ceremonies . . . 139-153

Chapter XII

Benares. Departure from Calcutta — Entrance into the Ganges — Rajmahal — Gur — Junghera— Monghyr— Patna— Deinapoor— Gesipoor— Benares— Religion of the Hindoos— Description of the Town— Palaces and Temples— The Holy Places The Holy Apes — The Ruins of Saranth — An Indigo Plantation — A Visit to the Rajah of Benares— Martyrs and Fakirs— The Indian Peasant— The Missionary Establishment 15G-173 CONTENTS. IX

Chapter XIII

Allahabad, Egra, and Delhi. rva Allahabad — Caunipoor— Agra— The Mausoleum of Sultan Akbar, Taj-Mehal— The Ruined Town of Fattipoor-Sikri— Delhi— The Main Street— Public Processions—The Emperor's Palace— Palaces and Mosques— Old Delhi— Remarkable Ruins— The English Military Station 174-191

Chapter XIV

Journey from Delhi to Bombay. The Thugs or Stranglers— Departure— Cattle-market — Baratpoor— Biana— Wells and Ponds — Good-nature of the Indians — Poppy Plantations — The Suttis — Notara — Kottah — Description of the Town — The Royal Palace of Armornevas — Amusements and Dances — The Holy Village of Kesho-Rac-Patum . 192-20.")

Chapter XV

Journey from Delhi to Bombay, Continued. Travelling on Indian Camels — My Meeting with the Burdon Family — The Different Classes of Women among the Native Population in India — Udjein — Captain Hamilton — Introduction at Court — Manufacture of Ice — The Rock Temples of Adjunta — A Tiger Hunt — The R.ock Temples of Elora — The Fortress of Dowlutabad 20G-229

Chapter XVI

Continuation of Journey and Sojourn. Auranjabad — Puna— East Indian Marriages— The Foolish Waggoner— Bombay — The Parsees, or Fire-Worshippers — Indian Burial Ceremonies — The Island of Elephanta— The Island of Salsetta 221-234

Chapter XVII

From Bombay to Baghdad. Departure from Bombay — Small-pox — Muscat — Bandr-Abas — The Persians — The Kishma Straits — Buschir — Entrance into the Schatel-Arab — Bassora — Entrance into the Tigris— Bedouin Tribes— Ctesiphon and Seleucia — Arrival at Baghdad 235-244

Chapter XVIII

Mesopotamia, Baghdad, and Babylon. Baghdad — Principal Buildings — Climate — Entertainment at the English Resident's — Harem of the Pasha of Baghdad — Excursion to the Ruins of Ctesiphon— The Persian Prince, Il-Hany-Ala-Culv-Mirza— Excursion to the Ruins of Babylon— Departure from Baghdad 245-258 X CONTENTS.

Chapter XIX

Mosul and Nineveh. PAGE Journey of the Caravan through the Desert— Arrival at Mosul— Curiosities- Excursion to the Ruins of Nineveh and the Village of Nebbi Yunus— Second Excursion to the Ruins of Nineveh— Tel-Nimroud— Arabian Horses— Departure from Mtfsul 259-271

Chapter XX

Persia. Journey of the Caravan to Ravandus— Arrival at and Stay in Ravandus— A Kurdish Family—Continuation of the Journey— Sauh-Bulak— Oromia— American Missionaries— Kutsc hie— Three generous Robbers— Persian Khans and English Bungalows— Arrival at Tebris ,..;... 271-290

Chapter XXI

Sojourn in Tebris. Description of the Town— The Town— Period of Fasting— Behmcn-Mirza— Anecdotes of the Persian Government— Introduction to the Viceroy and his Wife — Behmen-Mirza's Wives — Visit to a Persian Lady — Persecution of the Lower Classes, of the Christians, and of the Jews— Departure . . . 291-299

Chapter XXII

Asiatic Russia — Armenia, Georgia, and Mingrelia. Sophia— Marand— The Russian Frontier — Natschivan— Journey of the Caravan — A Night's Imprisonment — Continuation of the Journey — Erivan— The Russian Post — The Tartars— Arrival in Tiflis— Sojourn there— Continuation of the Journey— Kutais— Maraud— Trip on the Ribon— Redutkale 300-317

Chapter XXIII

European Russia. Departure from Redutkale— Attack of Cholera— Anapka— Suspicious Ship — Kertsch— The Museum— Tumuli— Continuation of the Journey — Theodosia (Caffa)— Prince Woronzoff :s Palace— The Fortress of Sewastopal— Odessa . 318-328

Chapter XXIV

Constantinople and Athens. Constantinople— Changes— Two Fires— Voyage to Greece— Quarantine at Ægina —A Day in Athens— Calamachi : the Is thmus— Patras — Corfu . . . 329-33S LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. ATHENS Frontispiece . CAPE HORN Title. EIO JANEIRO Page 14 A STORM IN THE ATLANTIC 58 CHINESE FEAST OF LANTERNS 127 HINDOO ABLUTIONS AT BENARES 166 THE TAJ-MEHAL 173 THE ROCK TEMPLES OF ELORA 218 JOURNEY WITH AN ARAB CARAVAN 234 TEBRIS 291 A MIGRATING HORDE OF TARTARS 20S CONSTANTINOPLE WORLD

Chapter I. The Voyage To The Brazils

Departure fuom Vienna — Stay in Hamburgh—Steamers and Sailing Vessels — Departure from Hamuukgh — Cuxhaven — The British Channel — Flying-pish — The Phisolida — Constellations — Passing the Link — The "Vamperos" — A Gale anip Storm — Cape Frio — Arrival in the Port of Rio Janeiro. On the first of May, 1846, I left Vienna, and, with the exception of slight stoppages at Prague, Dresden, and Leipsic, proceeded directly to Hamburgh, there to embark for the Brazils. In Prague I had the pleasure of meeting Count Bcrchthold, who had accompanied me during a portion of my journey in the East. He informed me that he should like to be my companion in the voyage to the Brazils, and I promised to wait for him in Hamburgh. I had a second most interesting meeting on the steamer from Prague to Dresden, namely, with the widow of Professor Mikan.

In WOULD. .-> the vear 1817, this ladv had, on the occasion of the marriage of the Austrian Princess Lco'paldiiic with Don Pedro I., followed her husband to the Brazils, and afterwards made with him a scientific journey into the interior of the country. I had often heard this lady's name mentioned, and my joy at making her personal acquaintance was very great. In the kindest and most amiable manner she communicated to me the results of her long experience, and added advice and rules of conduct, which proved afterwards highlv useful. I arrived in Hamburgh on the 12th of May ; and, as early as the 13th, might have embarked on board a fine fast-sailing brig, which, besides, was christened the " Ida," like myself. With a heavy heart 1 .aw this fine vessel set sail. I was obliged to remain behind, as I had promised my travelling companion to await his arrival. \\ eek after week elapsed, with notliing but the fact of my staying with my relatives to lighten the dreariness of suspense; at last, about the middle of June, the Count came, and shortly afterwards we found a vessel — a Danish brig, the " Caroline," Captain Bock, bound for liio Janeiro.

I had now before me a long voyage, which could not be made under two months at the least, and wliich, possibly, might last three or four. Luckily I had already lived for a considerable period on board sailing vessels during my former travels, and was therefore acquainted with their arrangements, which are very different from those of steamers. On board a steamer everything is agreeable and luxurious ; the vessel pursues her rapid course independent of the wind, and the passengers enjoy good and fresh provisions, spacious cabins, and excellent society. In sailing vessels all this is very different, as, with the exception of the large East Indiamen, they are not fitted up for passengers. In them the cargo is looked upon as the principal thing, and in the eyes of the crew passengers arc a troublesome addition, whose comfort is generally very little studied.

The captain is the only person who takes an jinterest in them, since a third or even the half of the passage money falls to his share. The space, too, is so confined, that you can hardly turn yourself round in the sleeping cabins, while it is quite impossible to stand upright in the berths. Besides this, the motion of a sailing vessel is much stronger than that of a steamer ; on tho latter, however, niany affirm that the eternal vibration, and the disagreeable odour of the oil and coals, are totally insupportable. For my own part, I never found this to be the case ; it certainly is unpleasant, but much casier to bear than the many inconveniences always existing on board a sailing vessel. The passenger is there a complete slave to every whim or caprice of the captain, who is an absolute sovereign and holds uncontrolled swajover everything.

Even the food depends upon his generosity, and although it is generally not absolutely bad, in the best instances, it is not equal to that on board a steamer. The following form the ordinary diet : tea and coffee without milk, bacon and junk, soup made with pease or cabbage, potatoes, hard dumplings, salted cod, and ship-biscuit. On rare occasions', ham DEPARTURE FROM HAMBURGH. 3 eggs, fish, pancakes, or even skinny fowls, are served out. It is very seldom, in small ships, that bread can be procured. To render the living more palatable, especially on a long voyage, passengers would do well to take with them a fe\*f additions to the ship's fare. The most suitable are : portable soup and captain's bis cuit — both of which should be kept iu tin canisters to preserve them from mouldiness and insects — a good quantity of eggs, which, when the vessel is bound for a southern climate, should first be dipped in strong lime-water or packed in coal-dust ; rice, potatoes, sugar, butter, and all the ingredients for making sangaree and potato-salad, theformer being very strengthening and the latter very cooling.

I would strongly recommend those who have children with them to take a goat as well. As regards wine, passengers should take especial care to ask the captain whether this is included in the passage-money, otherwise it will have to be purchased from him at a very high rate. There are also other objects which must not be forgotten, and above all a mattress, bolster, and counterpane, as the berths are generally unfurnished. These can be purchased very cheaply in any sea port town. Besides this, it is likewise advisable to take a stock of coloured linen. The office of washerwoman is filled by a sailor, so that it may easily be imagined that the linen does not return from the wash in the best possible condition. When the sailors are employed in shifting the sails, great care must be taken to avoid injury by the falling of an}' of the ropes.

But all these inconveniences are comparatively trifling ; the great est amount of annoyance begins towards the end of the voyage. The captain's mistress is his ship. At sea he allows her to wear an easy neglige, but in port she must appear in full dress. Not a sign of the long voyage, of the storms, of the glowing heat she has suffered, must be visible. Then begins an incessant hammering, planing, and saw ing; every flaw, every crack or injury is made good, and, to wind up, the whole vessel is painted afresh. The worst of all, however, is the hammering when the cracks in the deck are being repaired and filled up with pitch. This is almost unbearable. But enough of annoyances. I have described them merely to pre pare, in some degree, those who have never been to sea. Persons residing in sea-port towns do not, perhaps, stand in need of this, for they hear these matters mentioned every day ; but such is not the case with us poor souls, who have lived all our lives in inland cities.

Very often we hardly know how a steamer or a sailin g vessel looks, much less the mode of life on board them. I speak from experience, and know too well what I myself suffered on my first voyage, simply because, not having been warned beforehand, I took nothing with me save a small stock of linen and clothes. At present I will proceed with the progress of my voyage. We embarked on the evening of the 28th of June, and weighed anchor before daybreak of the 29th. The voyage did not commence in any very encouraging manner; we had very little, in fact almost no wind at all, and compared to us every pedestrian appeared to be running a race : we made the nine miles to Blankenese in seven hours. is Luckily the slow rate at which we proceeded was not so disagreeable, as, at first, for a considerable period we beheld the magnificent port, and afterwards could admire, on the Holstein side, the beautiful country houses of the rich Hamburghers, situated upon charming eminences and surrounded by lovely gardens.

The opposite side, be longing to Hanover, is as flat and monotonous as the other is beautiful. About here the Elbe, in many places, is from three to four miles broad. Before reaching Blankeneso the ships take in their stock of water from the Elbe. This water, although of a dirty and thick appearance, is said to possess the valuable quality of resisting putridity for years. We did not reach Gliickstadt (37 miles from Hamburgh) before the morning of the 30th. As there was not now a breath of wind, we were entirely at the mercy of the stream, and began drifting back. The captain, therefore, ordered the men to cast anchor, and profited by the leisure thus forced upon him to have the chests and boxes made fast on the deck and in the hold. We idlers had permission granted us to land and visit the town, in which, however, we found but little to admire.

There were eight passengers on board. The four cabin places were taken by Count B , myself, and two young people who hoped to make their fortune sooner in the Brazils than in Europe. The price of a passage in the first cabin was 100 dollars (£20 16s. &d.), and in the steerage 50 dollars (£10 8s. 4d.). In the steerage, besides two worthy tradesmen, was a poor old woman who was going, in compliance with the wish of her only son, who had settled in the Brazils, to join him there, and a married woman whose husband had been working as a tailor for the last six years in Rio Janeiro. People soon become acquainted on board ship, and generally endeavour to agree as well as possible, in order to rendcr the monotony of a long voyage at all supportable. On the 1st of July we again set sail in rather stormy weather.

We made a few miles, but were soon obliged to cast anchor once more. The Elbe is here so wide, that we could hardly see its banks, aud the swell so strong, that sea-sickness began to manifest itself among our company. On the 2nd of July, we again attempted to weigh anchor, but with no better success than the day before. Towards evening we saw some dolphins, called also tummler, or tumblers, as well as several gulls, which announced to us that we were fast nearing the* sea. A great many vessels passed quickly by us. Ah! they could turn to account the storm and wind which swelled out their sails, and drove them rapidly towards the neighbouring port. We grudged them their good fortune ; and perhaps we had to thank this specimen of Christian love on our part, that on the 3rd of July, we had not got further than Cuxhaven, seventy-four miles from Hamburgh.

The 4th of July was a beautifully fine day, for those who could remain quietly on shore ; but for those on board ship it was bad enough, as there was not the slightest breath of wind stirring. To get rid of our lamentations, the captain launched out in praises of the charming little town, and had us conveyed to land. We visited the town, as well as the bathing establishment and the lighthouse, and afterwards CUXHAVEN — HELIGOLAND. 5 actually proceeded as far as a place called the " Bush," where, as we were told, we should find a great abundance of strawberries. After wandering about, over fields and meadows, for a good hour in the glowing heat, we found the Bush, it is true, but instead of straw berries, discovered only frogs and adders there. We now proceeded into the scanty wood, where we saw about twenty tents erected.

A bustling landlord came up, and offering us some glasses of bad milk, said that every year a fair is held in the Bush for three weeks, or rather, on three successive Sundays, for during the week days the booths are closed. The landlady also came tripping towards us, and invited us, in a very friendly manner, to spend the next Sunday with them. She assured us that we should " amuse ourselves charmingly ; " that we elder members of the com pany should find entertainment in the wonderful performances of the tumblers and jugglers, and the younger gentlemen find spruce young girls for partners in the dance. We expressed ourselves much pleased at this invitation, promised to be sure to come, and then extended our walk to Bitzebiittel, where we admired a small castle and a miniature park. 5th July.

Nothing is so changeable as the weather : yesterday we were revelling in sunshine, and to-day we were surrounded by a thick, dark fog; and yet this, bad as it was, we found more agreeable than the fine weather of the day before, for a slight breeze sprang up, and at nine o'clock in the morning, we heard the rattling of the cap stan, as the anchor was being weighed. In consequence of this, the young people were obliged to give up the idea of an excursion to the Bush, and defer all dancing with pretty girls until their arrival in another hemisphere, for it was fated that they should not set foot in Europe again. The transition from the Elbe to the North Sea is scarcely perceptible, as the Elbe is not divided into different channels, but is eight or ten miles broad at its mouth. It almost forms a small sea of itself, and has even the green hue of one.