Travels in Central Africa, and explorations of the Western Nile tributaries

Preface

. MANY and deep are the obligations we are under to friends who have given us their sympathy, and who have felt a lively interest in our undertakings in Central Africa : to them are due our sincere thanks. Of these true and tried supporters, some have passed away; "In Memoriam," their cherished names we first recount. To the late Madame Tinne for the welcome accorded to us at a time of sickness and depression, in the Bahar il Gazal, and for manifold subsequent acts of kindness, we are particularly indebted. The sincere friendship of her sister, Ma demoiselle Adrienne, Baronne de Capellan, who unfortunately succumbed at Khartoum, will never be forgotten by us. To Dr. Hodgkin, M.D., F.R.G.S., who died whilst accompanying that noble philanthropist, Sir Moses Montefiore, on a mission to the East, and to Mr. Thomas Brookin, F.R.G.S., we owe also our sincere acknowledgments.

Dr. Jenzig, many years a resident at Khartoum, and Monsieur de Pryssenaere, who died in the rainy season of 1865, on the Blue Nile, whilst engaged on a scientific exploration of the northern and eastern territories of the Sobat, we grieve to record as no more. Of the living, our near relatives, Mr. and Mrs. Me Quie, of Blundell Sands, near Liverpool, claim a first place for our acknowledgments for their more than brotherly and sisterly devotion to us and our interests during our absence in Africa. To Mr. John Tinne, of Briarley, near Liverpool, and Mr. James Macqueen, of Kensington, we cannot pay too high a tribute for the valuable services and various acts of kindness of which we have been the recipients during our travels and since our return. To the former we are also indebted for photographic views of Gondokoro and

PREFACE.

. VI the Bahar il Gazal ; and to the latter more particularly for his labours in editing some articles which appeared in the columns of the "Morning Advertiser," and subsequently, jointly with Captain Burton, now Her Majesty's Consul for Damascus, in a work entitled " The Nile Basin." To other friends, whose names are unrecorded here, we none the less sincerely and gratefully offer our acknowledgments for kind services and warm sympathy. Our thanks we also beg to proffer to the directors of the Penin sular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company for the liberal manner in which they responded to our application for supplies from their well-furnished stores at Suez. At the desire of our relatives, who wished to entertain and see the last and first of us, we embarked and disembarked at Liverpool ; and as we were not passengers in the Company's boats, we have the greater pleasure in recording this disinterested act of liberality on the part of the directors.

To attempt to eulogize the scientific contributions to these volumes by Dr. Gray, P.Z.S., F.R.S., and Dr. Gunther, F.R.S., of the British Museum, would appear unseemly. The known ability of these able writers amply justifies us in the conclusion that their respective papers will be as warmly recognized by the readers of this work as they are acknowledged by ourselves. Since writing the above, the painful intelligence has reached these shores of the death of that accomplished and daring traveller, Miss Tinne, who has fallen a victim to her zealous desire to explore the savage regions of Bournou Her sad end will be widely and deeply lamented wherever human sympathy can appreciate exalted views coupled with gallant enterprise. In the form of an Appendix, as being of less general interest than a description of travel, is placed an account of Consul Pethe rick's connection with the Royal Geographical Society, and duties as envoy of that Society to succour the Zanzibar Expedition under Captain Speke.

Whether his services in that capacity have been misrepresented or not, he ventures to appeal to the judgment of his fellow-members of the Royal Geographical Society and the public at large. CONTENTS. Page Introduction — Petherick as ivory trader and Cousular Agent in Central Africa — Obtains leave of absence to visit his native land — " Egypt, the Soudan, and Central Africa" 1 Petherick's engagement with the Royal Geographical Society — Intends to effect a meeting with Captains Speke and Grant — OS the Portuguese coast — First glimpse of Africa 2 A cry of " Fire ! fire !

" on board — The superstitions of sailors — A day in Malta 3 The wonderful Catacombs of Civita Vecchia — The Governor's Garden — Our reception at Alexandria i Arrive at Cairo — Visit the ruins of Karnac, Thebes, &e. — Surprising tale of a Crocodile 5 Hospitality of the Roman Catholic Missionaries at Santa Croce — Miani, the Italian traveller, visits us .......... 10 We arrive at Korosko — The Nubian or Abu Hamad Desert — An interview with Sheikh Achmed 11 My husband regarded as benefactor of Korosko — An account of an interview Petherick had with the Viceroy on a previous occasion . . . .12 Korosko — The chamseen — Loading of camels — Dispatching baggage to Berber — Our fowls attacked by wild cats, &c. — No demand for backsheesh . 13 A description of the women of Korosko — A woman's malediction on the despoilers of her fruit trees — Taxation of the Egyptians . . . .14 Scarcity of food — The rising of the Nile — A dewdrop — Off Boulac — The river changes its colour 15 We launch our India rubber punt — The " whitebait " of the Nile — Annoyed by scorpions — An audience with a fortune-teller 16 An account of our stay at Assouan — The soldier's story — The desert cart . 17 Excessive heat — The "promise" — Busy stowing away luggage . . .18 CONTENTS.

VIII /■■,!■■ A terrific thunderstorm, tents blown down— Anticipation of the desert journey 19 Increase of the Nile— Arrival of a caravan from Berber— Scarcity of water— The destruction of a lahjeh 20 The landing of Said Pacha's disbanded negro soldiers at Korosko— Petherick 's impatience at their rudeness — A busy scene 21 A soldier volunteers to serve Petherick— A novel present— Kheir Allah's wife — Description of a camel -driver 22 Preparations for the start — A fanatic Mussulman — Arrival of Dr. Murie in the " Kathleen " — A pleasant meeting 23 Good news from home — The Doctor decides to accompany us across the desert — Arrival of the Doctor's daMbyeli—kn English " hip, hip, hip, hurrah I " 24 Preparing for our journey — The " Kathleen " sails — Mustapha and the sheep — Hearty adieux at Korosko 25 Ride through a ravine — European graves — A stand-still 26 My first ride on camel-back — A halt at Sichreeg — Novel sight — Mustapha's chase after runaway sheep 27 My dress for the desert journey— My husband instructs me how to mount a camel — Our long march begins 28 A halt at the " Msibarak't il Naga" — Description of same — Our guide's story 29 The halt at sunset— Our men expect aesha — Mode of living en route . . 30 A long march — The midnight halt — Hogab il Gourab — Tradition respecting a freebooter of that place . . . 31 Koult il Guss, or the Janissaries' hillock — The Constellation of the Southern Cross— A wild dance by the camel-drivers — The " valley without water " — We repose in the caves of Rouakib 32 A bivouac — Desert flowers '. . 33 We halt in a beautiful valley — The Doctor takes photographic views . . 34 A visitor in the desert — We sojourn at Suffur — A description of same . . 35 The garden of the desert — We reach the wells of Murrat . . . .36 Rest at Bergab il Alwan — Camel-drivers' amusements . • . . . .37 The Sphinx 38 Our guide's story — A wearyiDg march — We arrive at Abu Hamad . . .39 Our drooping spirits revive — A Sheikh's present 40 The hunter's story — A wonderful bird 41 An exciting elephant hunt 42 A wreck — We meet Monsieur Sponee — A collection of animals and birds . 43 A stricken-down camel-man — A ride by moonlight 44 Terrific heat — A Christian's grave ...... 45 We visit the tomb of the stranger .46 A youthful Shiekh — A cordial reception .47 Great gale of wind and damage — Petherick's shooting adventure . . .48 The " happy valley " — Safi's promise CONTENTS.

IX Page An early ride— We bivouac on the borders of a creek of the high Nile — Teachers of the Koran 50 The legend of Sheikh Abd il Majid — We cross the " Moor of the Donkey " — Akab't il Homar — Meet a caravan of slaves 51 We are expected at Khartoum — The " Moor of the, Hippopotamus" . . 52 We arrive at Berber — A hearty welcome —The Governor invites us to partake of his hospitality- 53 Intolerable heat — The Governor visits us— Report of the death of Dr. Peney . 54 We part with our guideaand camel-man — Affecting scene — My horse " Luxor " 55 A fall from a camel — Preparations for departure — A night ride through the town 56 Our arrangements on board — Make friends on board — A hearty salute, led by Tetherick and the Doctor 57 Our butterfly hunter — The Doctor visits the " Lady of the Nile " — Petherick at the helm 58 Petherick meets Abd il Majid, his principal agent — Negroes atrociously used by traders— We receive news of the assassination of Ismail Pasha . . 59 A terrible retaliation — Rocky scenery — A dangerous cataract . . . .60 Khartoum sighted — Petherick's /eZacea sailing towards us with old friends on board — A hearty welcome from all 61 Letters arrive — Mournful intelligence, Petherick's father dead — A propensity to cannibalism . .62 Khartoum — Gross superstition — My maid Halima 63 I endeavour to civilize Halima — A desperate encounter 64 My parrot " Polly " — I am disappointed ......... 65 A description of my African home — The Consulate house and buildings . 66 Our servants— Negro amusements, dances, &c 67 The Kordofanese and Neam Neam dances — A pantomimic display . . .68 The routine of our life at Khartoum — Intellectual amusements , , .69 Khartoum and its inhabitants — My pet animals — A sunset stroll . . .70 Petherick secures the services of the Negroes to man the boats — Their mistrust — Departure of the boat for the south 71 A vexatious delay— Petherick dispatches a messenger in search of the " Kathleen " — The funds subscribed in England nearly exhausted . . .72 Roman Catholic missionaries arrive — We assist at a mass in memory of Dr. Peney 73 Halima doubts the truth of our faith — A " happy new year " . . . .74 A wedding ceremony — Mother and bride visit me — Description of bridal dress 75 Petherick adjusts a matrimonial difficulty — We receive an addition to our menagerie 76 The disinterment of Arakil Bey — An imposing sight 77 A touching sermon — Petherick's agent Abderachman — The " Ramadan " .78 CONTENTS.

X Page Sad news— Dr. Brownell's intioduction— We take leave of the Khartoumers . 79 on Farewell visits— Painful partings Confusion on board— A description of the crew— The final start ... 81 We arrive at the point*— Missing soldiers— Hippopotami 82 The Wallad il Meek— The " Kathleen " endangered—" Sons of Moses " . . 83 The " Hill of the Father of Dogs— Natives bathing— A collision ... 84 Another disaster— The Doctors arrive— A visit from the natives . . . 85 Hellat il Donagla— Petherick goes out shooting— A good " bag " . . .86 An agreeable change — I accompany my husband on a shooting excursion— Ali and his serkych °' Another start — The Island of the Bagaras— Beautiful scenery . . .88 A stranger announced — Mons. Poncet joins our company 89 Monsieur Poncet relates the sad fate of Baron Arnheim 90 Death of Vaudet — Gallant conduct of Daoud 91 We meet some Bagara Arabs — They wish Petherick to come to terms with them — The ambage 92 The " Lady of the Nile " springs a leak — A glimpse of Mahommed Cheir's dahabyeh . . . . • . . . . ■ . . . .93 Unsettled state of country — We are hailed by the Bagaras — They offer their services 94 We fall in with slave boats — A horrible sight — The Shillook territory . . 95 Description of a " tookul " — A razzia against the Shillooks . . . .96 The slave trade — The ibis 97 We anchor at Gourab il Aisch, or " Bag of Grain " — Panic-stricken negroes — Meet a boat from Gondokoro 98 Giraffes — We reach thc Daenab territory — A fearful hurricane . . .99 Faki Mahommed, our favourite sailor — We proceed up the Sobat . . . 100 Violent storms — Boats in sight 101 A start at sunrise— Petherick holds a conference with the Shillooks . . 102 The " strangers' due " — Sailing down the White Nile — A prayer from the Koran 103 Prospect of a long journey — I become alarmed at Petherick's absence . . 104 Petherick appears with new-made friends — A conference with the Jangaes . 105 A description of " round-robin " towing — We arrive at the Bahar il Gazal . 106 Mutinous conduct — The Nouaer territory — A touching incident . . . 107 We lose our pet sailor — Great consternation on board 108 Poor Faki's possessions — Heavy thunderstorms 109 An enormous crocodile — A group of mosses 1 10 A fight between my domestics — A meeting on the Nile Ill A medical consultation — "Blondin" — Petition for pardon . . . .112 "Ali the careless "—AVe pass floating islands of herbage — Petherick and Carlo go out to shoot for a breakfast j!3 CONTENTS.

XI Page Incessant rains, our cabin is deluged — Signor Carlo's narrative of his adventures as elephant hunter 114 An elephant hunt— Dangerous quarters . . 115 A fight with a " heavy tusker " — A close pursuit llfi Attacked by negroes — An unusually dry season 117 Hearty rejoicings and congratulations — Weary towing 118 Our supply of provisions running low — Our dietary scale, new rules, &c. . 119 We reach the Aliab — Our larder replenished— Visited by two Nouaer chiefs — A description of same 120 Chiefs' wives — A singular toilette 121 We await the arrival of the boats — An animated scene — Petherick entreated to decide a domestic difference 122 A chase after a wife — A leakage discovered — The lotus plant .... 123 Boats from Gondokoro — My pet gazelle ........ 124 Petherick's anxious inquiries concerning the travellers — The Doctors' boat arrive — A living armadillo 125 Indisposition of the Doctors — Lovely scenery 126 The sounds of distant firing — I and my husband feel alarmed — An escape from a hippopotamus . . . . . . . . . . . .127 Preparations for another start — A pleasant beverage — The delaeb palm . . 128 Papyrus and mosquitoes — We go on shore — I climb an ant-hill with Petherick 129 A great disturbance on board — A Nouaer in trouble 130 " Gourzet il Kellab " — Some beautiful flies — A disappointment . . . 131 A great demonstration — Sadly disappointed — Sad news for Captain Speke . 132 Slaves on board Abd il Majid's boat — He pleads his cause before Petherick . 133 Our suspicions confirmed — -Petherick in great trouble of mind — Places Abd il Majid under arrest 134 The horrors of slave trading — Touching scene— An eventful day brought to a close 135 Petherick has a difficult task to perform — Abd il Majid's illegitimate trade ' exposed — He is handed over to his Government . . . . .136 The Doctors' boat in sight — Mournful intelligence — The death of Dr. Brownell 137 Our boats need repairs — A fight between Nouaers and Khartoumers . . 138 A slave razzia — The burial of Dr. Brownell 139 Our excess of grief — Sunshine and showers 140 A solemn pledge of friendship — Petherick's agent Mussaad visits us . . 141 The commerce of Gondokoro and Khartoum — Misplaced confidence . . 1 12 We meet Messieurs Pryssenaere and Bartholemy — The " Lady of the Nile " in danger 143 Hasty landing — The cause of the mishap . 144 Nouaar chief's petition to the Queen — Petherick endeavours to console him . 145 I am a witness to the spitting salutation — Unpleasant run on shore . .