The Magyars: their country and institutions ... With maps

Preface

. It were the merest affectation to pretend that I do not expect many readers and more critics among the Hungarians themselves. To them I would only observe that I have aimed at candour and impartiality, and, if occasionally I have had to dwell upon their failings, it has been in no unfriendly spirit. This book contains no wilful misrepresentation of facts, although it may contain — doubtless does — many unintentional errors. For these my only excuse is the extreme difficulty which the most impartial observer experiences in endeavouring to comprehend a foreign people. At the same time, this book is written not for the Hungarian, but for the English reader. Considera tions of space have necessarily compelled me to VI

PREFACE.

. publish only a selection from the materials I had collected. It is hoped that the choice has been made sufficiently varied to interest several classes of English readers who may wish to make themselves acquainted with a country to which recent events have given increased importance. As the book combines the results of residence, travel, and study, it will be found to contain suggestions for the intending tourist as well as information for those who at home would study new forms of social and political life. I have given most prominence to those parts of the subject in which I myself am specially interested, merely indicating those to which, from a deficiency of know ledge or taste, I was unable to do justice. What an author has written as task-work his readers instinc tively skip. Where I do not speak from personal experience and private information, my knowledge is generally derived from native authorities.

At the same time I have not thought it superfluous to refer to my predecessors in Hungarian travel, whether English or foreign. The reader will find several references to the books of Mr. Paget and Mr. Boner, both on points in which I agree with, and on those in which I differ

PREFACE.

. vi i from them. I have also to acknowledge my obliga tions to the works of M. de Gerando, and to the admirable treatise on Hungarian Agriculture, by Dr. Ditz. And here I would seize the opportunity of thanking my numerous Hungarian friends, who, either in conversation or by correspondence, have assisted me in writing this book. As the Magyar or Hungarian language is but very little known in England, three tables are subjoined ; giving the sounds of the Hungarian alphabet ; the meanings of the Hungarian words occurring in geo graphical proper names ; and a list of such towns and rivers mentioned in this book as have different appellations in German and Hungarian. London, November, 1869. THE HUNGARIAN ALPHABET. The Hungarian Alphabet contains no sound which is not heard in the English or French languages, but it represents them by different letters from those which represent them in the languages of Western Europe.

As the Hungarian orthography is much more rational than either English, French, or even German, a few rules will enable the reader to pronounce the Hungarian words occurring in the following pages with tolerable closeness. The accentuated or emphatic syllable of each word is in almost every instance its first syllable. The accents printed over the vowels are merely signs of quantity, and show that such vowels are long. The letters which require notice are the following : — (I.) Vowels a has the sound of o in not (nearly). a ,, ,, a in father. u ,, ,, u in hu\\. ii ,, ,, oo in pool. ii and y'are the short and long sounds of the French eu and the German o. ii and u are the short and long sounds of the French u and the German ii. IT The remaining vowels are to be pronounced as in French. (2.)

Consonants. — c or cz has the sound of ts in its, like the German e. cs ,, ,, ch in church. g „ „ if hard, asin^et. j ,, „ y in jet. s ,, ,, sh in shin. sz ,, ,, -f in«n. b VOL. I. THE HUNGARIAN ALPHABET. X v \ are pronounced as in English. zs has the sound of s in pleasure or z in azure, like the French j. 10 with the sound of v\ are only used in proper y " " ' [ names. th „ „ tl ly i filial. ny are the sounds J new (nyoo). ty ' heard in 1 tune {tyoon). gy j (.dew (dyoo). IT All the remaining consonants are to be pronounced as in English. HUNGARIAN WORDS OCCURRING IN THE NAMES OF PLACES, ETC al [iu composition) lower banya mine ersek archbishop salu village fcher white sckete black fel {in composition) upper so head sold land, earth fured, surdo bath, watering-place halom mound, hill hegy mountain hely place kis little k(_ stone, rock kiit a well magyar Hungarian mezo' meadow, pasture nagy great nemet German 6 old olah Wallacli orszag realm, country patak brook piispok bishop sar mud saros muddy sebes swift, rapid szabad free, privileged szasz Saxon szeg corner szek seat szent Saint sziget island tot Slovack, Slavonic udvar court uj new var fortress varad fortified town varos town, city vas iron vasar market ) COMPARATIVE LIST OF HUNGARIAN AND GERMAN NAMES OF TOWNS, DISTRICTS AND RIVERS Hungarian.

I Kis . 1 Klein j men Szekelfdld Szeklerland Duna Donau (Danube) Tisza Theiss Ipoly Eipel Olt Alt Zsil Schyl ERRATA. Volume I, p. 2, line id, for "north-east " read " north-west.' Volume I, p. 164, line l, for "wram " read "uram." Volume 2, p. 120, line 2, for " third Prince Sigismund " read " la»t Prince Gabriel. " Volume 2, p. 233, line 6, for " Haromszek " read "Haromszek." Volume 2, p. 234, line 25, for " Borszek " read "Borszek." CONTENTS OF VOL. I. Chapter I.

Introduction

. PAGE. Origin of the present Work — My Three Visits to Hungary — Limits of my Wanderings in that Country — Knowledge of the Magyar Language — Peculiar Character of this Book — The Magyars little known in England — Importance of the Subject — New Organization of the Austro- Hungarian Empire — Superior Compactness of Hungary — Austrian Reichsrath and Hungarian Diet — The "Delegations" — Statistics of Territory and Population — The Magyars, their Number and Position — Magyar Conquest of Hungary — Meaning of the Word "Magyar" — "Nationality" denned — Present material Development ofthe Country — Hungary as a Field for Tourists ; for the Antiquarian ; for the Sportsman — Scenery — Natural History — Politics and Sociology — Hungary and Russia I Chapter II. FIRST IMPRESSIONS — BUDA-PEST. First Entry into Pest — Gentlemen's Costume — Terra Incognita — Spring Weather — Streets of Buda-Pest — Shops — View from the Fortress — Blocksberg — Storming of Buda in 1849 — The various Quarters of Pest — Bridges and Steamers — Hot Baths — A Moslem Shrine — Pilgrims — The Suspension-Bridge — The new Quay — Buildings on the River — Hungarianism of Pest — German Origin — National Theatre — National Museum — Town Park — Unhealthiness of Pest CONTENTS.

XIV Chapter III. OUTLINES OF HUNGARIAN HISTORY. PACK Aspect of the Country— Unscientific Ethnology— Exposed Position of the Country— Successive Layers of Turanian Population—Conversion of the Magyars— The Cumans and the Mongols—Turkish Occupation of Hungary— Zrinyi' s Apologue- Justified by Events — Patriotic Sentimentality — Progress of the Austrian Connection — Negative Character of Plungarian History — Effects of Turkish Occupation— Fate of Bohemia- Hungarian Constitutionalism — Its Defects — Opposition to the Austrian Constitution — Bulla Aurea — "Nobles" — Freedom from Taxation — Extenuating Circumstances — Constitutional Reform — Unfavourable Geographical Position of Hungary — Persecution of Protestantism by the Habsburgs — Magyars and Wallachs compared— Causes of Inferiority of Eastern Europe — Hungary and Poland — Advantages of the Habsburg Connection 46 Chapter IV.

THE GREAT HUNGARIAN PLAIN. Limits of the Alfold — The Principal Magyar Area — The Great and Little Plains — Dr. Ditz — Hungarian Agriculture — Its Uniform Character — Want of Wood and Stone — Bad Roads — Imperfect Drainage — Fertility of the Soil — Cultivated Deserts — Continental Climate — Want of Moisture — Canals and Plantations — Want of Fuel — Wells — Subterranean Granaries. 74 Chapter V. ALFOLD SCENERY. How one should see Alfold Scenery— Baron Edtvds' Description— Pettfsi's Little Cumania — The Wilderness in Winter— The Stork— Parallel Description by M. de Gerando CONTENTS. XV Chapter VI. ALFOLD CITIES — DEBRECZIN. I KG] Distribution of Population on the Alfold — Villages and Market — Place-s — Royal Free Cities — Statistics — My own Experiences — Nyiregyhaza — Debreczin — Its Great Fairs — Railway Communication — The Calvinist's Rome ; its Streets ; its Industry — Wood and Water — Origin of Debreczin — Magistrates as a Church Body — Territories of Alfold Cities — Importance of Debreczin — Typical Character of its Citizens — Municipal Jealousies — Conservativism — Declaration of Independence in 1849 — The Great Calvinist Church icS Chapter VII.

ALFOLD CITIES— SZEGED. Szeged — Its unorganized Appearance — Water-Supply — A Local Dish — Learning Hungarian — Dolce far niente — The Cholera — St. Rosalia — An English Sportsman — The Town-House — " Nobles " wanted — An Army Contractor as Lord-Lieutenant — Magyarized Germans — Municipal Subservience — Passports for Horses — Magyar Thieves — Drought and Famine — Government Relief — Increased Taxation 130 Chapter VIII. THE MAGYAR PEASANT. Definition of a Peasant — Pride of the Magyar Peasantry — Extra Hungarians non est vita — Non-Peasant Classes — A Horse-racing Agriculturalist — The Un-peasant-like Character of the Magyar Peasant — Dr. Ditz on Indolence — Causes of Hungarian Indolence — Doubtful Blessings of Nature — Cunning and Suspicion of the Peasant — Magyar Politeness — Subjection of Women — Patriarchal Relations — Hospitality — National Faults — Aristocratic Prejudices — Professor Ansted's Oriental Blood — Magyar and German Industry— M. Arany's Magyar Misi — A Peasant's use of Words CONTENTS.

XVI Chapter IX. THE MAGYAR PEASANT— Continued. PAGE. The Alfold the Special Habitat of the Magyar — Appearance of" their Villages— Proximity ofthe Churches— Spurious Ethnology —The Cottage of the Magyar Peasant— Of the Magyar Squire —Shortness of Peasant Life— Alleged Sterility— Magyars and Wallachs compared — Magyar Recruits — Costume of the Peasant — Of the Gentry — Of the Peasant Women — Rationale of Peasant Costume and Modern Fashion — Costume of Kalota-szeg — Ofthe less civilized Nationalities— Linen and Sheepskin — Holiday Dress — The Magyar as a Horseman — The Csardas — The Gipsies — As Musicians — Their Hungarian Feelings — The Tilinka — Garibongyi — Four Classes of Herdsmen — Magyar Melancholy — German Vulgarity 173 Chapter X. PEASANTS AND BRIGANDS. The Word Betydr — Betydrismus and Deutschthiimlerei compared — "Poor Lads" — Hungarian and Austrian Military Conscriptions — Sympathy with Outlaws — The Death of a Brigand — Conservative Prejudices — Statarium — Soldiers on Leave — Effect of Military Service 206 Chapter XI.

VALERIA. Hungary and Pannonia — Valeria — The Monastery of Mons Pannoniæ — Birth-Place of St. Martin — Foundation and Restoration — Used as a Fortress — Monastic Hospitality — Architecture of the Church — St. Stephen's Seat — An Extensive Prospect — The Library — The Benedictines in Hungary — Exceptional Privileges — Flight into Silesia— Joseph II. and Francis II.— Educational Work— Lake Balaton— Tihany — Turkish Raids — Fiired — Ruined Castles —Importance of Lake Balaton— Veszprim — A Cistercian Convent— An Aristocratic Bishop — Bakonybel COsVTENTS. XVII Chapter XII. HUNGARIAN CONSTITUTION BEFORE 1S48— COUNTRY SQUIRES. PAGE. Aristocratical and Federal Character of the Old Constitution — Francis II. — A Hungarian County — Hungarian Noblemen — Noble Corporations — " Congregations " — Elected Judges — Good Effects of County Organization — County Magistrates — The Counties and the Government — " Particular Congregations " — The County Rate — The Tablabiro — His Character — Compared with Squires Western and Allworthy — Contrast of their Political Opinions — His Library — His Omniscience — Baron Eotvos on the Tablabiro— Peti'fi's Mr. Paul Pato— A Transylvanian Country Gentleman, drawn by M. Gyulai — Baron Eotvos on a Szolgablro _ 247 Chapter XIII.

HUNGARIAN CONSTITUTION BEFORE 1848.— Continued. THE OLD DIET. The Municipia — Their Rights and Privileges — The Honoratiores — The Counties and the Government — An Election Anecdote — Unequal Distribution of Nobility — Size of the Counties — Polish Refugee — The Counties in the Diet — Other Members of the Diet— The Royal Free Cities — Votes Weighed, not Counted — The Gallery— Mr. Paget's Evidence — The Dicasteria — Gravamina 2$° Chapter XIV. THE REFORMS OF 1S48 AND 1866. Revolution and Reform— M. Michael Horvath — The Office of Palatine— The Abolition of Privileges — Parliamentary and Municipal Reform — Hungarian Parties— Paralleled in America and England — New Electoral Laws — Qualification of Electors — Already Obsolete— Imitation of France— Influence of Nobles — Exaggerated Suspicion of the Opposition — Necessity of Modernizing the Country — Patriot Conservatives — The Delegations — M. Mocsary — Patriotic Obscurantism — Austrian Influence still feared— How to Oppose it CONTENTS.

XVIII Chapter XV. THE EMANCIPATION OF THE LAND IN 1848. PAGE. Abolition of Robot and Aviticitas— Noble and Non-noble Land— Curialists and Urbarialists —The Urbarium — Russian Serfage — The Peasant's Two Masters — Peasant Holdings — Minute Legislation— Reforms of 1848— Curialists and Urbarialists confused—Consequences of Emancipation — Aviticitas explained — Village Administration— Judges and Notaries— " Self Government " — Pusztas— Commassatio — Peasants and Gentry 31S CONTENTS OF VOL. II. Chapter XVI. HUNGARIAN SOCIETY. PAGE Hungary and America — Utilitarian Conversation — Sciolism — Difference between America and Hungary — Mediæval Remains — Young and Old Hungary — Rude Plenty — Disregard of Foreign Opinion — Influence of French Wars — Petofi's Sarcasms— Recent Origin of Pest — Of Hungarian Literature and Society — A Practical Joker — The Dissipated Club — A Hungarian Jew in America — Cost of a Carriage-Pole — Neologisms — The Latin Language — Noble Predicates — Agricultural Habits I Chapter XVII.

HUNGARIAN SOCIETY— Continual. Magnate Deputies— Position of the Upper House— Influence of the Magnates — Courtiers become Patriots — Public Services of the Magnates — Patriotic Liberality — Magnates and Squires CONTENTS. XIX PAGE — Spain and Hungary contrasted — Politics as a Topic of Conversation — Why French is learnt — Hungarian Snobbish ness — Anglo-Mania — Ladies' Newspapers — The Language fit for a Gentleman — Foreign Languages a Necessity — Disadvan tages of their Study — Educational Charlatans— Idleness and Patriotism — Former Educational System — Concentration of Literary Class — Magyar Opinion of Foreigners — Importance of Turkish Railways 19 Chapter XVIII. THE NATIONALITIES. Remarkable Intermixture of Nationalities in Hungary — Its Inconvenience — The Vicinity of the Capital — St. Stephen's Maxim- Ethnological Areas — Changes of Nationality — Rules and Exceptions — The Census of 1851 — Anecdotes — German Hungarians — Saxons of Transylvania — Continental Position — Turkish Wars — The Latin Language — Conservative Regrets — Maria Theresa and Joseph II 43 Chapter XIX.

THE NATIONALITIES— Continued. The Future of the Nationalities — Influence of Prosperity — Of Democracy— Supposed Mutual Animosity — Nationalities and Churches — Lutherans — Magyarisation of Germans — Three Classes of German Colonists — The "Hungarian Religion" — Ruthenians— Serbs — Wallachs — The German Nationality in Austria — The "Nationality Fever" — A Democratic Movement — Conditions of Magyar Supremacy — The Magyar and German Languages — Statistics 7 1 Chapter XX. HUNGARIAN PROTESTANTISM. Political Character of the Reformation — Hungary and Bohemia contrasted — The Word Kurucz — Turkish Oppression of Catholicism _ The Friends of the Refonnation in Germany — In XX CONTENTS. PAGE France and Hungary — Lutheran Burghers and Calvinist Nobles — Protestantism in Transylvania — Religious Influence of Feudal Lords— Switzerland and Szekel-land— The Mass in Magyar — Neutral Character of Hungarian History — The Protestants and the Crown — Joseph II. 's Edict of Toleration — The Johannites — The Nazarenes — Compared with the Quakers and Mennonites — Hungarian Toleration — Its Imperfect Character — Persecution of the Sabbatarians — Decentralized Public Opinion — Proposals of a Calvinist Synod — Its Misrepresentation of History — Catholic Reaction 96 Chapter XXI.

HUNGARIAN PROTESTANTISM —Continued. Protestant Grievances — Army Chaplains — Conversions — Mixed Marriages — Protestant Liberalism a Source of Weakness — Divorce — Changed Character of Catholic Clergy — Lutherans and Calvinists — The Patent of 1S59 — Protestant Self-Government — Statistics — Interiors of Churches — Clergy and Laity — Foreign Culture among the Catholic Clergy — Their Superior Social Position — Infrequency of Conversions — Probable Increase of Catholicism — Isolated Position of Hungarian Protestantism — State Aid — Superiority of Protestant Schools — Changed Position of the Crown — Proposed Catholic Autonomy 121 Chapter XXII. THE HUNGARIAN LANGUAGE. The German Language in Hungary — Advantages of Knowing Hungarian — Practice of Speaking Foreign Languages — Hungarian and Russian Languages compared — The Area of the Hungarian Language — Its Improved Position— Spoken by the Sovereign — Dying out in Moldavia — A Scheme of Matthias Corvinus — Making a Language— The use of Latin Words — Of English Words— Slav Words in Hungarian— German and CONTENTS.

XXI PAGE Latin Words used by Peasants — Relation of Hungarian to Turkish — The Turks and the Finns — Sajnovits and Gyarmathi — Theories of Philologists — Castren — Csoma — Reguly — Hun garian Grammars — Sound of the Language — Its Terseness — Advantages of its Study — Mr. Max Muller on Finnish — The Future of Hungarian — Language and Race — Agglutinative and Inflected Languages — The Hungarians as Linguists — An Obstacle to the Germanization of Hungary 149 Chapter XXIII. HUNGARIAN LITERATURE. Hungarian Exaggerations — The Hungarian Language in Past Centuries — Protestant Exiles — Joseph II. — The Noble Guard — Statesmen and Poets — Petofi — Unoriental Character of Hungarian Literature — Obstacles to its Progress — Smallness of Reading Public — Its Recent Origin — Want of Literary Cultivation — Newspapers — Poverty of the Country — Patriotism — Protection in Literature— Science — Competition of Foreign Literatures — The Hungarian Academy — Kisfaludy Society — The Censorship of the Press — The Provincial Position of the Country 1 79 Chapter XXIV.

TRANSYLVANIA. Mr. Boner's Book on this Country — Transylvania compared with Switzerland — Its Three Nationalities and Three Political Nations — Its Past History — Partition of the Hungarian Kingdom — A Miniature Poland — Mutual Relations of the Three Political Nations — Transylvanian Diet — Position of the Roumans — Union of Hungary and Transylvania — Annulled by the Austrian Government — Renewal of the Union — Peculiarities of Transylvanian Character — Terra Incoguitior 200 Chapter XXV. KOLOZSVAR— THE SZEKELS. Three Routes into Transylvania — My own Route — Kolozsvar or . Klausenburg — Society — Population — Museum — The Great CONTENTS. PAGE Church— The Zapolyas— The Unitarians— Religious Fluctua tions—Privileges ofthe Szekels — Their Father Attila— Szekel Emigration— Opinions of Tourists — Primitive Watering-Places — Borszek — Political Importance of Szekels — Their Action in 1848-49— The Szekel Character 21S Chapter XXVI.

ENYED. Importance ofthe Place — The College ofthe Reformed — Agitation among the Wallachs — Atrocities committed by them — Feelings of their Peasant Neighbours and Landlords — Fortunes of Enyed in 184S — The Advance of Bern — Burning of Enyed — Losses of the College — Despondency of the Hungarians — Poor Scholars — The inexorable Tax-gatherer — College Statistics 240 Chapter XXVII. THE SAXONS OF TRANSYLVANIA Date of their Settlements — Their " University" — Mr. Boner's View of their Privileges — St. Stephen's Maxim — Their Democratic Constitution — The *' Regulations" of Francis II. — The "Patricians" — The Lutheran Clergy — A .Mediæval Democracy — Subject Communities — The Saxons in 1S4S-49 — Saxon Timidity — Dialect and Peculiarities — Little Influence exercised by them — Their Conservatism — Diminution of the Population — Saxon Peasants 259 Chapter XXVIII.

HERMANNSTADT AND THE DIET IN 1S64. Miihlbach— F'irst View of Hermannstadt — Grass-grown Streets — German Clothes— Bruckenthaler Museum — The Provincial Diet in 1864 — Schmerling's Schemes — A new Electoral Law — Attitude of the Hungarian Party — A Trilingual Legislature — Appearance of the Assembly — A Soldier's Child — The New Regalists— The Debate — Subsequent Changes 27S CONTENTS. XXIII Chapter XXIX. KRONSTADT. PAGE Hotel No. I — The Pavement — The Market-place — Romantic Situation of the Town — The Kapellenberg — A Russian Monument — Panoramic View — Manufacturing Industry — The Dom Kirche — Crosses, Vestments, and Chalices — Date of the School — Brasso and Kronstadt — Fortunes of the Town — Pacificator of the World— Szekler Influence — Striking Contrasts of the Town and Neighbourhood — Adventure of a Saxon Sportsman 292 Chapter XXX.

WALLACHS, OR ROUMANS. Origin of the Name of Wallach — Meaning of the Word Rouman — The Dacians — Slav Influence — North and South Slavs — Peculiarities of the Wallachian Language — Rouman Area — A Rouman Map — Chances of Rouman Ascendancy — Wallachian- Speaking Magyars — Alleged increase of Roumans— Probable Causes — M. de Gerando on Rouman Courage — Rouman Indolence — Rouman Religion — Superstitions — Stupidity — Cruelty — Jacqueries — Their Causes — Memories of Mutual Injuries — Greatly exaggerated — Incendiarism — Wallachs compared with Serbs and Szekels — Landlords' Neglect of the Wallachian Language — The United Greeks — Strategical Importance of Transylvania 3°S Chapter XXXI. TRAVELLING IN TRANSYLVANIA. Transylvanian Travel — Nagy Varad — Bishop's Bath — Magyars and Wallachs — Cemeteries — On the Road — Szilagy Somlyo — Hungarian Scientific Association — Public Conveyances— Pedestrianism — Into Wallachia— Through the Csik— A Rude Conveyance — Travelling Expedition — A Watering-place — At a Pope's House — On the Moors — Among the Shepherds — With the Savants— Last Words on Szckel-land MAPS Political Divisions ofthe Austro- Hungarian Empire To face chapter I Ethnological Map of the Hungarian Kingdom ,, ,, 18 Map of Hungary in the 17th Century , ,. etc. etc.

Chapter I. Introduction

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Origin of the present Work — My Three Visits to Hungary — Limits of my Wanderings in that Country — Knowledge of the Magyar Language — Peculiar Character of this Book — The Magyars little known in England — Importance of the Subject — New Organization of the Austro-Hungarian Empire — Superior Compactness of Hungary — Austrian Reichsrath and Hungarian Diet — The "Delegations " — Statistics of Territory and Population — The Magyars, their Number and Position — Magyar Conquest of Hungary — Meaning of the Word "Magyar" — "Nationality" defined — Present material Development of the Country — Hungary as a Field for Tourists ; for the Antiquarian ; for the Sportsman — Scenery — Natural History — Politics and Sociology — Hungary and Russia. THE present work is the result of three visits to Hungary of five, eleven, and twenty-three months respectively.

I first entered the country in March, 1862, when the nation was suffering from the disap- VOL. I. pointment of the hopes excited by the convocation of the Diet of 1861. I last quitted it immediately after the coronation of the present sovereign, in the Whitsuntide of 1867. A large portion of the time was spent in the capital, but I also stayed for several weeks together in some of the provincial towns, such as Szegedin, Debreczin, and Miskolcz, and in several country houses. In 1864 I made a tour through Transylvania and the north-east of Hungary. I have thus seen the greater part of the area inhabited by the Magyars, from Presburg on the Austrian frontier to Kronstadt in the extreme south-east of Tran sylvania ; from Munkacs in the north-east to the Lake Balaton in the south-west. I know little or nothing from personal acquaintance of the Slovack area on the north-east, or of the Croatians and Serbs along the southern frontier.

By thus concentrating my attention on the most powerful nationality and the most widely-diffused language of the country, I flatter myself that I acquired a more thorough and better-grounded knowledge of what is really important in its social and political circumstances than if I had endeavoured, during the same space of time, to acquire a superficial acquaintance with the three or four other dialects spoken within its bounds. As I learnt the Magyar language so as to read with ease and to converse with average facility, I was able to derive information from CHARACTER OF THIS

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classes and individuals with whom the majority of travellers from Western Europe could have held no direct communication. To my knowledge of this language I owe the greater part of the information I have collected respecting the finances that distinguish the several classes and parties amongst the Magyars themselves. This book will be found to differ from those which have previously appeared in the English language on Hungary in two particulars. First, it takes into account the most recent events, especially the reconciliation between the nation and the Crown in 1867, Mr. Boner, my latest predecessor, having published his book on "Transylvania" in 1865. Secondly, it considers the national character of the Magyars, and their historical supremacy over the other inhabitants of the land, as the central point from which the social phenomena of Hungary can be best surveyed and understood, and its future prospects may be most correctly divined.

As I believe that a people can be best judged by a foreigner who has taken the trouble to look at them from their own point of view, I took especial pains, both by study and conversation, to make myself acquainted with Hungarian opinions about things Hungarian. It is hoped that the result will give the English reader a clearer and more life like idea of a people who have so many claims on our interest and our sympathy. To most of us the Hungarians are merely unfamiliar names, mis-spelt in Mr. Reuter's telegrams. To others, again, the word " Magyar " calls up recollections of the diamonds us Prince Eszterhazy, or the revolutionary eloquence of M. Kossuth ; neither of them personages from whom a true idea of the average Hungarian could be formed. The Hungarians are divided into dis tinct social classes, and the national character cannot be rightly understood without including in the com parison not only the lawyer and the magnate, but also the country gentleman, the peasant, and the artisan.

As my subject is somewhat unfamiliar to the English reading public, it may not be superfluous to state precisely its claims to attention. The political mass which we are still accustomed to call Austria — although the more correct expression, Austro- Hungarian Monarchy, is every day gradually becoming more in vogue — has not yet forfeited its claims to be reckoned one of the sive great powers of Europe. In this state the Magyars may be said to have a prerogative vote. Since the reconciliation in 1867 it consists of two closely-allied monarchies, each having equal rights both of internal administration and of control over the policy of the common federal government. One of these monarchies is the King dom of Hungary ; the other, for want of a more correct name, is called the Empire of Austria, and HUNGARY AND CLSLELTHANLA. 5 sometimes Cisleithania.* Theoretically, these two states are equally sovereign, and confederated together on the basis of complete equality ; practically, we shall find the balance of advantages to turn, if at all, slightly in favour of Hungary.

In wealth, population, and civilization, the western, or Cisleithanian half of the federal empire, is de cidedly superior. It is, on the other hand, geographi cally less compact, stretching as it does from the frontiers of Bessarabia to the shores of the Lake of Constance, and inhabited by populations not only differing more widely than those of the Hungarian kingdom in the degrees of civilization they have respectively attained, but also bound together by much fewer ties of either material or ideal interests. The Hungarian kingdom has a common history reaching back for several centuries. The union of the Polish and German provinces of Cisleithania was accomplished by violence at the end of the last century. An even more important consideration is, that the centre of gravity of the Magyars, the domi nant nationality in the Hungarian kingdom, falls within the bounds of the empire ; whereas that of the Germans, the dominant nationality in Cisleithania, falls without those bounds.

And although there is still a large measure of opposition against Magyar * From the Leitha, a small stream, a tributary of the Danube, separating Hungary from Lower Austria. supremacy in Hungary, against that may be set the equally inveterate opposition of the Poles, Slovenians, andTchekhs — especiallyof the latter — against German supremacy in Cisleithania. From these three considerations it is evident that Cisleithania is in greater danger of dismemberment than the Hungarian kingdom. This difference between the two states is reflected in their present constitution, especially in the composition of their sovereign legislatures. The Cisleithanian Reichsrath — of course I mean its Lower House— is composed of representa tives of the several provinces or " crown-lands," called kingdoms, duchies, marquisates, counties, &c. These representatives are elected by the respective diets or provincial legislatures of the crown-lands.

The diet of the kingdom of Bohemia is represented in the Reichsrath by fifty-four deputies ; that of the mar quisate of Moravia by twenty-two ; the diets of the arch-duchies of Upper and Lower Austria send re spectively ten and eighteen ; and so on, even such small legislatures as those of Austrian Silesia, the Bukovina, and Salzburg contributing their several quotas of six, five, and three members to the Reichs rath. There are no less than fourteen such provincial diets in Cisleithania. In Hungary, on the contrary, we find no such complicated arrangement. The Hungarian diet is at once Reichsrath and provincial diet for the whole of Hungary and Transylvania. THE " DELEG A TIONS." 7 The only portion of the Hungarian kingdom which has a separate legislature and a recognized internal autonomy is the small allied kingdom (socium regnum) of Croatia and Slavonia, an exception so insignificant as to throw into stronger relief the rule that Hungary represents unity, and Austria division.