Buenos Ayres, and the Provinces of the Rio de la Plata: their present state, trade and debt, etc

Front matter

5pt3 mra in Sco cSt. ' CIjc gooii olin; anD famuse man," ifttastcr grchasttnn ©alum, Lansdowne MSS. " Coulsi me tfjat I)r teas torn at 33r*jstotoe." Richard Eden. After a picture by Holbein, in the King's Collection, temp. Henry VIIL, lately in possession of Charles Joseph Harford, Esq., and engraved in Seyer's 'Memoirs of Bristol,' 1825. Fronti spiect BUENOS AYRES AND THE PROVINCES OF THE RIO DE LA PLATA FROM THEIR DISCOVERY AND CONQUEST BY THE SPANIARDS TO THE ESTABLISHMENT OF THEIR POLITICAL INDEPENDENCE. WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF THEIR PRESENT STATE, TRADE, DEBT, ETC. ; AN ArPENDIX OF HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL DOCUMENTS; AND A DESCRIPTION OF THE GEOLOGY AND FOSSIL MONSTERS OF THE PAMPAS. BY SIR WOODBINE PARISH, K.C.H., F.R.S., G.S., VICE-PRESIDENT OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON, AND MANY YEARS CHARGE D'AFFAIRES OF H. B.Br.

AT BUENOS AYRES SECOND EDITION, ENLARGED, WITH A NEW MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS. LONDON- JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1852. London : Printed by W. Clowes and Sons, Stamford Street. CONTENTS. INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER .... page xxiii

Chapter I The Discovery Of The Rio De La Plata

Page De Solis, the first discoverer, killed by the Natives .... 3 Cabot disappointed in England . . . . . . . . 4 Invited to Spain by Charles V. 4 Appointed Piloto Mayor 4 Sent on a Voyage to the Spice Islands 4 His Officers mutiny off Brazil 4 Proceeds up the Parana^ 5 Builds Fort San Espiritu 5 Explores the River Paraguay 5 Defeats the Indians near the Vermejo ...... 6 They bring him Silver, and accounts of Peru <> Blamed for naming the River " La Plata " 8 The Emperor approves his conduct ....... 8 Pizarro's arrival in Spain from Peru 9 Delays the sending aid to Cabot 9 He returns in consequence to Europe 10 Resumes his old office of Piioto Mayor 10 News received of the Conquest of Peru 11 Spirit of Enterprise in consequence . . . . . • .11 Armaments for Peru and the Rio do la Plata . . . . .11

Chapter II. The Conquest

Mendoza's Armament for the Rio de la Plata 12 His agreement with Charles V 12 a CONTENTS. VI Page Joined by Persons of Rank 13 The Fleet sails for Brazil 14 Osorio the General put to death 14 Disgust of the People in consequence 15 Reach Buenos Ay res and land there 15 Hostile attack upon the Natives 16 The Adelantado's Brother slain by them 16 Dire Famine among the Spaniards ....... 17 Besieged by the Indians . . . . . . . . .17 Ayolas obtains Food from the Timbiis ....... 18 Builds a Fort on the Carcarana . . . . . . . .18 Mendoza proceeds there . . . . . . . . .18 Terrible mortality amongst his Followers . . . . . .18 Ayolas, sent up the River, does not return . . . . . .18 The Adelantado sails for Spain and dies ...... 18 His secret Instructions to Ayolas . . . . . . .18 Ayolas killed by the Payagua Indians ...... 21 Yrala elected Governor ......... 22 The Spaniards established in Paraguay ...... 22

Chapter III. The Spaniards In Paraguay

— THEY REACH PERU. Yrala : his character and first measures ....... 23 Commencement of the City of Assumption ...... 23 Improved position of the Spaniards in Paraguay . . . . .24 Industry of the Guarani Tribes ........ 24 The Spaniards intermarry with them ....... 23 A Guarani Woman saves them from a Conspiracy .... 25 Cabeza de Vaea appointed Adelantado ... .26 His march from St. Catherine's ........ 28 Reaches Assumption in safety ...... 30 Chastises the warlike Guaycurus ..... 31 His Ships arrive by the Parana 32 Earthquake on the passage up .... . 32 The Adelantado sets out for Peru 33 Reaches the Xarayes during the Inundation ... 33 The People attacked by Sickness, Mosquitoes, and Vampires . 34 Oblige Cabeza de Vaca to return ... 34 Conspiracy against him .... 35 He is imprisoned and sent to Spain ... 35 Yrala again chosen Governor ... og Puts down a Rebellion of the Indians ... 36 Projects a new Expedition to Peru ... 36 Crosses the Country of the Chiquitos . 37 Schmidel's account of the March CONTENTS. vii Pane Intelligence of Pizarro's Rebellion 39 Yrala sends Messengers to La Gasca 39 Who orders him back to Paraguay . . . . . .39 Dissatisfaction of his Followers 40 They take with them the first Sheep and Goats 40 Disturbances in Paraguay ......... 40 Yrala restores Peace 41

Chapter IV. Yrala And De Garay

— THE LATTER FOUNDS BUENOS AYRES. Yrala's conquest of La Guayra .*...... 42 The encroachments of the Paulistas ....... 42 To make Slaves of the Indians ........ 42 The Emperor makes Yrala Captain-General ..... 43 The first Bishop reaches Paraguay ....... 43 Telegraphic Signals used by the Natives ...... 43 Repartimiento of the Indians ........ 44 Regulations regarding their Vassalage ....... 45 Subsequent measures of the Jesuits 47 Nuflo de Chaves sent up the Paraguay ...... 47 Death of Yrala 48 Succeeded by his Sons-in-law ........ 48 Chaves reaches Peru .......... 48 Founds Santa Cruz de la Sierra 49 He returns to Paraguay ......... 49 Persuades the Governor to go to Peru ....... 50 The Bishop and a large Retinue accompany him 50 Is deprived of his Government by the Audiencia ..... 50 The Viceroy appoints Zarate in his place . . . ' . . .51 Caceres returns to Paraguay as his Lieutenant . . . . .51 The Bishop heads a Party against him 51 He is imprisoned and sent to Spain ....... 51 De Garay founds Santa Fe 52 Receives news of Zarate 52 Rescues him from the Charruas ........ 52 Zarate reaches Paraguay and dies ....... 52 De Garay appointed Lieutenant-Governor ...... 52 And made Guardian of his Daughter ... .... 52 He founds new Settlements in Paraguay 53 Re-establishes that at Buenos Ayres 54 Signally defeats the Querandis ........ 54 Is slain by the Indians three years after ...... 55 Yrala and De Garay the Heroes of the Conquest . . . . .56 Government of the Rio de la Plata founded in 1620 . . . . CONTENTS. VIII

Chapter V. Commercial Restrictions Of Spain

— BUENOS AYRES MADE THE SEAT OF A VICEROYALTY. Page Paraguay, Buenos Ayres, and Tucuman 57 Divided into Three Governments . . . . . . .57 Restrictive policy of the Mother Country ....... 58 The Treaty of Utrecht gives the English the Asiento .... 59 A pretext for Contraband Trade ........ 59 The Portuguese obtain Colonia 60 Their Smuggling Trade 60 Monte Video founded in 1726 62 Treaty between Spain and Portugal of 1750 ..... 62 Colonia exchanged for the Uruguay Missions . . ... .62 The Indians resist their occupation ....... 62 The Viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres established in 1776 .... 64 Cevallos sent out with 10,000 Men 64 Takes St. Catherine's and dismantles Colonia ..... 64 Peace restored in 1777, by the Treaty of San Udefonso ... 65 Which gives Colonia for ever to Spain ...... 65 Spain opens the Colonial Trade ........ 66 The Free Trade Regulations of 1778 66 Founded on Protection to Spanish Industry ...... 67 Consequent complaints of the South Americans ..... 67 Increase and prosperity of Buenos Ayres ...... 69

Chapter VI. Independence Established

Effect of the British Invasions of 1806 and 1807 .... 70 Arrival of the Prince Regent in Brazil ..... 70 Offers to take the Buenos Ayreans under his protection . . 71 Their spirited Reply stops his Pretensions .... 71 Joseph Bonaparte declared King of Spain . . tj Treatment of his Messenger by the Buenos Ayreans . 71 Loyal feeling in favour of Ferdinand VII. . . . 70 Effect of the French occupation of Spain . . 72 Distrust of the Viceroy Liniers . 70 Elio sets up a Junta at Monte Video . 70 A similar attempt at Buenos Ay res put down in 1809 70 Cisneros sent from Spain to replace Liniers Is obliged to open the Trade ... Alarmed by the French successes in Spain . 74 Convokes a Public Meeting . . Which establishes a Provisional Junta (1810) ' ' • -. • .74 CONTENTS. ix Page Anger and violence of the Cortes of Cadiz ...... 74 Civil War in consequence ......... 75 Subsequent Obstinacy of King Ferdinand 75 The Buenos Ayreans appeal to Charles IV. ..... 75 Propose to set up Don Francisco de Paula ...... 75 Finally proclaim their Independence in 1816 76

Chapter VII. Extent And Government Of The New Republic

Page Extent of the New Republic 79 Population and Political Divisions 80 Government established at Buenos Ayres 80 Geographical Divisions 80 The Riverine Provinces 80 The Upper Provinces 80 The Provinces of Cuyo 80 Greater extent of the old Viceroyalties 81 Necessity of subdividing them ........ 81 Separation of Paraguay, the Banda Oriental, and Bolivia ... 82 Cry raised for a Federal Government 83 Supremacy of Buenos Ayres from 1810 to 1820 84 Victories achieved by San Martin 85 Rejection of the Constitution 86 The Congress and National Executive dissolved 86 French Plan for a Monarchy for the Duke of Lucca .... 86 Every Province sets up for itself (1820) 87 The Buenos Ayreans establish a Provincial Administration ... 87 Failure of another Constitution (1827) 87 Decline of the Provinces in a state of isolation ..... 88 Buenos Ayres charged with their Foreign Relations .... 89 Extensive Powers provisionally vested in General Rosas ... 89 Want of a definite League between the Provinces 89 The South Americans under Spain 91 Ignorant of, and unfitted for Self-government ..... 91 Their first measures and difficulties 92 Slow growth of Constitutional Freedom in all Countries ...

CONTENTS. X Page Policy of the Ministers of Great Britain Their Warnings unheeded by Spain 94 Mr. Canning's Treaties with the new States 95 And justification of their necessity 95 France and other Countries follow ....... 96

Chapter VIII. The Rio De La Plata And Buenos Ayres

Arrival at Rio de Janeiro ......... 97 Reach the Rio de la Plata 98 Pampero off Monte Video ......... 98 Enormous extent of the River ........ 98 Voyage up — Shoals — Wrecks — Currents 99 Anchorage off Buenos Ayres ........ 99 Passengers carted on Shore ........ 100 Great want of a Landing-place ........ 100 First impressions of the City ........ 101 Public Buildings and private Dwellings ...... 102 Primitive arrangements of the latter . . . . . . .103 Improvements since introduced ........ 104 Windows protected by iron gratings . . . . . . .105 Water scarce and dear ...:..... 105 State of the Streets and Pavement ....... 106 Country-houses and Gardens . . . . . . . .107 English and Scotch gardeners ........ 107 Indigenous and other Plants, Maize, &c 108 The Aloe, its flowers and juice, Pulque ...... 108 Humming Birds capable of being tamed — instances of . . . .109

Chapter IX. Statistics Of The Population

Estimated Population in 1778, 1800, and 1822-25 ... Ill Classification in 1778 ..... 113 Diminution of the Coloured Castes .... 114 Prohibition of the Slave Trade since 1813 .... 114 Kind treatment of their Slaves by the Spaniards . . 115 They fight for their Masters .... jjg System for their gradual Emancipation - jg Has made the Free Blacks industrious . . 116 Increase of the White Population . . . 1)7 Great influx of French and English Rights of the latter secured by Treaty . I Rosas gives them ground for a Church Their Marriages with the Natives . , CONTENTS. XI Page The Buenos Ayrean Ladies— their taste for Music . . . .118 The Men — their education and habits . . . . . . 119 Decline of the Priests and Lawyers 119 Rise of the Military, and its baneful results 120 Employments of the lower Classes 120 Work for all, and cheap Food 121 Fish and Birds caught on Horseback 121 Everybody rides — even Beggars 122

Chapter X. Climate, And Its Influences

Climate of Buenos Ayres influenced by the Winds .... 123 Effects of a North Wind 124 Case of Garcia, a Murderer 1*25 Consequences of a Pampero . . . . . . . .126 Dust-Storms and Showers of Mud 127 Violent Thunder and Lightning 128 Lockjaw and Mai de Siete Dias 129 Mortality amongst Children 129 Ravages of the Small-pox 130 Introduction of Vaccination . . . . . . . .130 Extended to Indians by General Rosas . . . . . .131 Mitigates Hooping-cough also . . . . . . . .131 Cases of Longevity 132

Chapter XI. Settlements Of The Spaniards On The Coast Of Patagonia

Falkner's account of Patagonia 133 Stimulates the Spaniards to Survey the Coast ..... 133 Piedra's Expedition in 1778 134 Settlement formed at San Joseph's . . . . . . .135 The River Chupat, a better site, unknown to him .... 135 Don Francisco Viedma's, at the Rio Negro 137 Don Antonio's, at San Julian's 137 The Santa Cruz River and its Source examined 139 Friendly Character of the Indians 141 San Julian's abandoned ......... 142 Desolate aspect of Patagonia generally 143 Want of Enterprise of the Spaniards 144 They neglect the Fisheries ........ 145 Villarino's exploration of the Rio Negro . . .... 146 The Neuquen, erroneously called the Diamante . . . . .151 Sufferings of the People . . CONTENTS. XII Page They reach the Cordillera 153 Disputes amongst the Indians . . . . . • • .155 Villarino obliged to return . . . . . . • • .156 Is aided by the Rising of the River . . . . . • .156 Results of the Voyage kept secret . . . . . • .157 Piedra replaced in command at the Rio Negro . . . . .157 Is killed by the Indians ... ........ 157 Don Leon Rosas made Prisoner . . . . . . . .157 Obtains an influence over them, and restores Peace . . . .157 The Settlement neglected by Spain ....... 158 Export of Salt from Carmen . . . . . . . .158 The Population increased of late years ...... 159

Chapter XII. Explorations Of The Interior By The Old Spaniards

Malaspina's Scientific Expedition and Surveys . . . . .160 Suppression of his Reports ......... 161 His Manuscripts in the British Museum ...... 161 Bauza's journey from Chile ......... 161 Maps the Country across the Pampas ....... 161 Positions of Towns in the Interior fixed ...... 162 Cruz crosses the Pampas from Antuco ....... 163 His track to Buenos Ayres ........ 164 Account of the Diamante and other Rivers ...... 165 His Geological observations . . . . . . . .169 Account of the Customs of the Indians ...... 170 Bowlegged from riding, and hardly able to walk . . . . .173 Taken up a Staircase, and on board Ship ...... 174 Their names of persons and places significant 175

Chapter XIII. Progress Of Inland Discovery Since The Independence Of Buenos Ayres

Ignorance of the Buenos Ayreans of the Lands to the South 1 76 Expeditions to the Salt Lakes ... 17 Garcia placed in command of one . , 77 yjai^ia piact-u 111 cuiiiuianu oi one . . ■.->. Fixes the Latitude of points on the Road ... j-8 The Laguna del Monte ... ._ The Sierra de la Ventana .... tu,-. r>«„~.,~i~,, „„j U..-.1-.1 t_j- _ * • ''" The Ranqueles and Puelches Indians Ti... r- — . ci. t_i__ ' * * • 180 The Great Salt Lake .... R ..'«,. ~s ~u "D..:u: * • 180 Ruins of old Buildings ■■«.... jgi Gareia's plan for a Frontier 1 '..._ lOl '""■■•• 181 The Buenos Ayreans extend their Estancias &.sl ......T-...1 K.. +!.« T..j:«.,„ • ' 0*£ Are attacked by the Indians ' CONTENTS. XI 11 Page Want of protection on the part of the Government .... 183 Garcia again employed 183 Sent on a Mission to the Indians 184 Fixes Latitudes of several points 185 Reception by the Natives . . . . . . . . .186 Their warlike display . . . . . . . . .187 Parlamento with the Caciques . . . . . . . .187 Scene of confusion .......... 188 Distribution of Presents 188 Martial air of the Huilliches 189 The Ventana Mountains 190 Filthy habits of the Indians 191 Influence of their Machis, or Wizards 192 Christian Women in captivity . . . . . . . .192 Attempt to release them fails . . . . . . . .193 Excitement in consequence . . . . . . . . .194 Height of the Ventana and adjoining Hills . . . . . . 194 Further Negotiations end unsatisfactorily . . . . . .195 Garcia returns to Buenos Ayres . . . . . . . .195

Chapter XIV. Extension Of The Frontiers To The South

Extension of the Frontier resolved upon 196 March of the Army assembled for the purpose 196 Misled by the Guides 197 Swamps and Fire-storm ......... 198 The Troops escape from destruction in a Lake ..... 198 Risks of Warfare in the Pampas . . . . . . . .198 Guanacoes — Deer — Armadillos ....... 198 Fort built on the Tandil 199 Treachery of the Indians 200 Hostages carried off by them ........ 201 The Vuulcan Mountains — Cape Corrientes 202 Old Jesuit Establishment on the Coast ...... 202 Frontier extended to Bahia Blanca 203 Don Manuel Rosas employed ........ 204 His influence with the Indians and its Results 204 Is called off by Lavalle's Mutiny ....... 204 Assassination of the Governor Dorrego 205 Rosas takes the Field against the Rebels 205 Re-establishes the legal Government 205 Is himself raised to power and elected Governor 205 Makes War on the hostile Indians 206 Prohibition of Sale of Arms to the Indians 206 Contrasted with the Policy of England 206 Results of the War with the Indians 207 Extension of the Buenos Ayrean Territory CONTENTS. XIV

Chapter XV. Geology And Fossil Monsters Of The Pampas

Page The Pampas an alluvial formation 209 The River Plata silting up 210 Bed of ancient Ocean beneath . . . . . . . .211 Evidences in fossil Marine Remains ....... 212 Beds of Sea Shells— Potamo-Mya . 213 Extensive Saline deposits . . . . . . . . .214 Speculations as to their origin ........ 214 Fossil Monsters of the Pampas . . . . . . . .215 The Megatherium — how discovered . . . . . . . 215 The Glyptodon a gigantic Armadillo ....... 217 Their Bones — how preserved ........ 217 Now in College of Surgeons ........ 218 Skeleton of the Mylodon . ,219 Strange Structure of these Monsters ....... 220 Speculations as to their habits and food ...... 222

Chapter XVI. The Rivers Paraguay And Parana, And Their Affluents

The River Paraguay rises in Cuyaba ...... 224 Lagunas of Xarayes ........ 225 The Pilcomayo not navigable . . . . . . . 227 The Vermejo navigated from Oran ..... 228 Voyages down it by Cornejo and Soria .... 228 The Parana and its Falls ...... 03O The Paraguay navigable throughout ..... 230 Periodically flooded, like the Nile 231 Rivers lost in the Pampas ...... 232 The Western Affluents saline ..... 933 The Eastern fresh . ..... 000 The Uruguay and its Tributaries .... 233 Spanish Surveys of the Parana .... 90. oyainsn Quivep Ul Lue 1U1.JU;| .... 90 . Capt. Sulivan's Charts .... ,„, ouiivau s "wnans .... 9Qs*. The ' Alecto ' passes up it to Corrientes . . ao- Proves its fitness for Steamers . ' „„, 1 iwico no ULiicoa iui uieuiiieis . , . Unsuitableness of Sailing Vessels yjt waning vessel 235 Impolicy of their attempting it . . . _. Buenos Ayres should promote Steam Navigation Its great importance to the whole Republic CONTENTS. XV PART Hi. THE PROVINCES. THE RIVERINE PROVINCES.

Chapter XVII. Santa

FE— ENTRE RIOS — CORRIENTES — THE MISSIONS — AND PARAGUAY. Page By whom settled . 241 De Garay founds Santa Fe ........ 242 Meeting with Spaniards from Peru 243 Santa Fe separates from Buenos Ayres 245 Old Trade of Santa Fe" 245 Population fallen off 246 Advantageous situation for transit trade ...... 246 Importance of Steam Navigation ....... 247 ENTRE RIOS. Extent and boundaries ......... 248 The Bajada the seat of the Government ' . 248 Population — Cattle — Gauchos 248 CORRIENTES. Population — Government — Productions 250 Must be collected at Buenos Ayres 251 Not worth fetching in foreign ships 251 Lake Ybera — Pigmies and Giants 251 Ants — Locusts — Musquitoes 252 OLD MISSIONS OF THE JESUITS. Now in ruins ........... 256 False notions of these establishments ....... 256 The Jesuits beloved by the Indians 257 Memorial of those of San Luis ........ 257 Bucarcli's false alarms . 259 Expulsion of the Order, and consequences CONTENTS.

XVI PARAGUAY. Page Former trade in Yerba Mate and Tobacco 261 Separates from Buenos Ayres 262 Francia made Governor 264 His cruelties and despotism 264 Releases foreigners .......••• 265 Excepts M. Bonpland 266 Francia's death ........... 260 His successor, Lopez, little better ....... 267 Present state of the country ........ 268 Mr. Graham's Report 268 Small inducements to Foreigners to go there 269 THE UPPER PROVINCES.

Chapter XVIII. Cordova

— RIOJA — SANTIAGO — TUCUMAN — CATAMARCA — SALTA. Discovered by Spaniards from Peru . . . . . . .271 They oppress the Indians ......... 272 Abandon their first Settlements ........ 273 Found Santiago, Tucuman, Esteeo ....... 273 Cordova, Salta, Jujuy .*....... 273 Population of these Towns in 1775 and 1825 274 Earthquakes and Inundations ........ 274 Distances between the Provincial Capitals ...... 275 Tucuman Waggons, and Cost of Transport by .... . 276 CORDOVA. Population — Boundaries — Rivers ....... 278 End of the Pampas — the Sierra de Cordova 279 Foundation of the City, in 1573 279 Jesuit Establishments — Library ........ 280 See of a Bishopric ...... 281 Simple manners of the people ...... 282 Bigotry — Miracles . . 282 Well situated for inland trade .... 283 Indians — Frontiers — Defences . . ... 283 LA RIOJA.

Divisions — Population — Productions .... 284 Mineral range of Famatina ...... 285 Remote and inaccessible ..... 285 Consequences of isolation ..... 286 Original Provincial Divisions ..... CONTENTS. XVII SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO. Page The Travesia a Sandy Zone 288 Dr. Redhead's Barometrical Observations ...... 289 Geology on the Road to Peru 289 Situation of Santiago — Productions ....... 290 Cochineal — Honey — Wax 291 The Gran Chaco — Mass of Iron found there ..... 291 How obtained — now in British Museum 293 Similar Iron from Atacama ........ 294 Dr. Turner 's Analysis of it . . 294 Opinions as to its origin — Baron Humboldt's 296 TUCUMAN. Situation — Climate — Fertility 297 Gaucho Life and Independence 298 Productions — -Sugar — Tobacco — Tafi Cheeses 298 Independence declared there in 1816 299 CATAMARCA.

Extent — Population — Productions 300 Wars and Cruelties of the Conquerors 301 Revolt of the Calchaquis ......... 301 They are finally exterminated ........ 302 SALTA. Foundation of the City — View of —Population 303 Sample of a Provincial Government 304 Town of Jujuy, on the northern frontier 305 Former prosperity, and causes of its decay 305 Hot and cold climates in the same latitudes 306 The Salado and its Affluents 306 El Pasage — how crossed 307 Rivers of Jujuy and Tarija 308 Alpacas — Vicunas — Chinchillas 309 Gold-washingc if La Rinconada . . . . . . . . 310 Salt plains of Casabindo 310 Trade in Mules — how propagated 311 Follows the Horse in his habits 312 Bravery of the Male Ass 313 Forest Trees — the Carob and its Bean-like Fruit .... 313 The Aloe and its various uses 314 The Coca — Sugar and Tobacco of Oran 315 Native Labourers the best in these climates 316 Foreigners unable to compete with them CONTENTS. XVIII THE PROVINCES OF CUYO.

Chapter XIX. San Luis

— MENDOZA — SAN JUAN. Page First settled by the Conquerors of Chile 319 Subject to that Government till 1776 319 Then made part of the Viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres .... 319 Importance of the old Cabildos . . . . . . . . 320 SAN LUIS. Poor and scattered Inhabitants ........ 321 Effects of Provincial Independence ....... 321 Position of the Town fixed by Bauza ....... 321 Splendid view of the Andes ........ 322 The Peaks of Tupungato and Aconcagua ...... 322 Gold-washings at La Carolina ........ 322 Road from Buenos Ayres across the Pampas ..... 323 Pampa Posts and Gaucho Guides ....... 324 Their cruelty to horse§ ......... 324 Mares never ridden — kept for food ....... 324 Journey to Mendoza in a 4-wheel carriage ...... 325 Recent march of Frenchmen over the Pampas ..... 326 They defend themselves against Indians and reach Chile . . 327 MENDOZA.

Boundaries of the Province ........ 328 Extensive Lakes and Rivers ........ 328 The Desaguadero, the Diamante, and Tunuyan 329 Produce — Quantities exported . . . . . . . 330 Silver Mines of Uspallata ......... 331 Native mode of working them ........ 331 No other will repay the expenses ....... 332 Population and Government ..... 332 Progress in the state of the People .... 333 The Vine introduced by people from the Azores 333 Climate and position of the City . . . 333 The Inhabitants affected with Goitre . . . 334 The Chlamyphorus described by Mr. Yarrell . 334 SAN JUAN. Extent and Population . . . „„7 Exports of Wine and Brandy and Corn . 3o7 Gold Mines of Jachal . . „„„ T?; ru: . 1 u..i.. .. t> 1 ■"■■•.. 6SB Fine Climate and healti.j* People . . 0,0 Destructive Inundation in 1833 ... CONTENTS. XIX

Chapter XX. The Passes Of The Andes

Page To Atacama, Copiapo, and Coquimbo ....... 339 From Mendoza by Los Patos and the Cumbre 340 The Dehesa and Portillo Passes ....... 341 De la Cruz de Piedra and Peteroa That of Antuco explored by Cruz -T13 Dr. Gillies's journey by Las Damas and the Planchon .... 344

Part IV. Chapter XXI, On The Trade Of The Rio De La

PLATA. Countries accessible through the Rio de la Plata 349 Buenos Ayres and Monte Video the Ports of Entry .... 350 Exports from Buenos Ayres — (Tables) . 353 Produce of the Riverine Provinces ....... 356 Exports doubled in value ......... 357 Greater increase in quantity ........ 357 Effects of Blockades and enlarged Territory 358 Increased production of Wool ........ 359 Comparative Tables of Imports 361 Articles imported from Great Britain 362 from France and other countries .... 364 Shipping employed 369 British Exports to all the new States since 1830 369

Chapter XXII. The Public Debts Of Buenos Ayres

Origin of the Funded Debt 371 Revenue and Expenses, 1822—1825 372 English Loan spent in war with Brazil 373 The Bank and Paper Currency 374 Effects of Lavalle's mutiny . . . . * . . . . . 375 Increased debt and depreciation of currency 376 Present liabilities of Buenos Ayres 376 Financial results for 1849 and 1850 378 Recent rising against General Rosas, aided by the Brazilians . . 379 Probable effects on the Finances 379 b CONTENTS. XX

Appendix

. HISTORICAL DOCUMENTS. Page 1808. Communication from the Prince Regent of Brazil to the Cabildo of Buenos Ayres upon his arrival at Rio de Janeiro, and their Reply 383 1815. Memorial addressed to the ex-king Charles IV. by the Buenos Ayreans, inviting him to send to them his son, Don Francisco de Paula 386 1819. Correspondence on Proposition of the French Government to set up a Monarchy, under their protection, for the Duke of Lucca . 393 1825. Treaty between Great Britain and the Provinces of the Rio de la Plata 401 1828. Preliminary Convention between Buenos Ayres and Brazil under the mediation of Great Britain 406 1830. Secret Instructions of the Emperor of Brazil to the Marquis of St. Amaro to promote the establishment of Monarchies throughout Soutli America, and the incorporation of the Banda Oriental with Brazil 411 Note thereon 414 Specimen of the Guarani Language 415 STATISTICAL TABLES.

Population of the countries of the Rio de la Plata .... 417 of the city of Buenos Ayres in 1770-78 .... 418 ditto and of the Province in 1825 . 419 Medical Statistics and Foundling Hospital 420 Crime and Public Instruction ........ 421 Meteorological Tables — Buenos Ayres 422 Dr. Redhead's Barometrical data between Buenos Ayres and Potosi, with heights of all the principal places on the road calculated by Mr. Petermann 424 Points fixed by observation throughout the Provinces .... 425 Professor Owen's Account of the Fossil Monsters of the Pampas Megatherium, Mylodon, Glyptodon .... ILLUSTRATIONS. Map of the Provinces of the Rio de la Plata and adjacent Countries. The Arms of the Republic (On the Title page) 1. Portrait of Sebastian Cabot (Frontispiece) 2. Mendoza's first Settlement at Buenos Ayres * . .

Page 22 3. The great Square at Buenos Ayres, drawn by M. de Kretschmar 79 4. The Landing-place and Alameda, by ditto .... 97 5. Portrait of General San Martin 85 6. Cart for landing Passengers at Buenos Ayres . . . 100 7. Calle de la Reconquista, from a Drawing by M. Pellegrini 102 8. Plan of the City of Buenos Ayres 113 9. Beggar on Horseback 122 10. Indian of the Pampas 175 11. The Ventana Mountains, from a Drawing by M. Pellegrini 190 12. Portrait of General Rosas, taken in 1833 .... 205 13. The Megatherium 209 14. The Potamo-Mya of the Parana 213 15. Tooth of the Glyptodon 217 16. Skeleton of the Glyptodon 220 17. Do. of the Mylodon 221 18. Gauchos lassoing Cattle 249 19. Tucuman Waggons 275 20. The Meteoric Iron from Otumpa, now in the British Museum 288 21. View of Salta 303 22. Mendoza Mules 330 23.

The Chlamyphorus 336 24. Tooth of Megatherium, natural size 429 * This view has a particular interest attached to it, inasmuch as it sets at rest two disputed points : the first, as to the precise site of the first settlement of the Spaniards at Buenos Ayres, which, from the position of the vessels, can only be on the Kiachuelo ; and, secondly, whether or not bows and arrows were used by the Querandis, which many authors dispute. The plate in question being drawn for Schmidel, who was one of the besieged party, must, I think, be admitted as good evidenoe on both these questions ; not to mention that in his narr-'ive he specifies bows and arrows amongst their arms. b ERRATA. Page 18, read " 1537 "for " 1557." Page 80, read " 800,000 "for " from 600 to 700,000." Page 94, read " but to establish " instead of " by establishing."