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Travels in India, including Sinde and the Punjab; ... translated from the German, by H. E. Lloyd

Leopold von Orlich · 1845 · Scanned text

164,266 words · about 11 h 30 min to read

Period artwork: Interior of the Bodleian Library, 1845
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About this book

Author
Leopold von Orlich
Language
English
Published
1845
Length
164,266 words · about 11 h 30 min
Sections
21 reader sections
Text
Scanned text, read from page scans by OCR; may contain errors
Rights
Public Domain Mark 1.0

 

Contents (21)

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Front matter

TRAVELS IN INDIA. VOL. I. NOTICE. The Publishers of this work beg to state that it is private property, protected by tbe late Copy right Act, the 5 & 6 Victoria, c. 45. They beg also to state that any person having In his pos session, within the United Kingdom, for sale or hire, one or more copies printed abroad of any English work protected by the Act referred to, is liable to a penalty, which, in cases affecting their interests, they intend to enforce. The Public are farther informed that the Act 5 & 6 Victoria, c. 47. s. 24. prohibits the im portation of all works printed in foreign countries, of which the copyright is not expired. Even single copies, though for the especial use of the importers and marked with their names, are excluded, and the Customs officers in the different ports are strictly enjoined to carry this regulation into effect.

N.B. — The above regulations are in force in all British colonies and dependencies, as well as in the United Kingdom. London : Printed by A. Sfottiswoode, New- Street. Square. 'IB? Bt____ t^____a___W fHiNTEO IN CoiOUBS >» HULUUANDfl a WALTON THE CUTLEB MINAR, OR COLUMN ERECTED BV THE. EMPfltOB CUTLEB AB DE.EN. IN ll**»3 TRAVELS IN INDIA, INCLUDING SINDE AND THE PUNJAB. BY CAPTAIN LEOPOLD VON ORLICH. TRANSLATED FROM THE CERMAN, P.Y H. EVANS LLOYD, ESQ. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, AND LONGMANS, PATERNOSTER-ROW. 1845. Notwithstanding the numerous works of every description which treat of India, notwithstanding the marvellous phenomenon presented by the rise, progress, and colossal magnitude of our Indian empire, it was, on the whole, too long before the English nation took an interest in the subject in any degree commensurate with its im portance.

The affairs of that country were re garded as the concern of the East India Company rather than as involving any national interest: — India, in fact, was looked upon as an El Dorado, where persons, enjoying the patronage of the Com pany, might acquire immense fortunes ; and when public attention was drawn to abuses, real or supposed, it was, as in the' case of Warren Hast ings, rather to forward the views of a party than to vindicate the honour or to promote the interests of the mother-country. Meantime the labours and indefatigable researches of many men of eminent learning and A VI ability were gradually revealing to Europe, not only its natural wonders, its surpassing fertility, its richness in every production that can contribute to the support, the comfort, and the happiness of man, but likewise the treasures of its learning, the condition of its people, and, alas! independently of its absurd general idolatry, the Tantra and Sakta worship, which necessarily brutalised and enslaved a part of its people.

Preface

. Three years ago, when the disastrous events in Cabool were first made known, it was generally believed that a lengthened and serious war must be the inevitable consequence. The Author of the following work participated in this opinion, and anxiously wished to be present at the approaching campaign, for the purpose of acquiring, in the ranks of the British army, that military experience, which a long peace had prevented him from obtaining in the army of his own country. His Sovereign was graciously pleased to grant the Author's request ; but the necessary negotiations with the British Government delayed his departure for India, while the rapid succession of military events in the seat of war surpassed every expectation. In consequence of this unavoidable deten tion, the Author only joined the British army at Ferozpoor on its return from its glorious campaign, when he saw, indeed, how well the laurels graced the brows of the victors, but with the mortifying reflection that he had come too late to witness how they had been won.

The main purpose of his journey having un happily been thus defeated, by circumstances over author's preface. XII which he had no control, it seemed to be an imperative duty to do all that was still in his power to make himself acquainted with that remarkable country, which has been visited by very few of his countrymen. If he has not taken the fullest advantage of the favourable op portunity which he enjoyed, the fault must be attributed to the shortness of the time rather than to any remissness on the part of the Author, who met with treasures far beyond his hopes, which, though fully able to appreciate, he could not in every case turn to account. He relates plainly and faithfully, what he saw and felt, and, to supply the deficiency of actual observation, he has added other matter which he heard and learnt from men of unimpeachable credit.

The Author has had the privilege of adding to his kind patrons and friends at home, many others both in England and in India, and a grateful re membrance of them will be for ever impressed on his heart. THE AUTHOR. CONTENTS or THE FIRST VOLUME.

Letter I. Addressed To Alexander Von Humboldt

Departure from London to Southampton. — Embarkation on the Tagus steamer. — Falmouth, Gibraltar, Malta, and Alexandria. — Voyage on the Mahmudie canal to Atfeh. — Steam navigation on the Nile. — Cairo. — Journey across the Desert to Suez. — Voyage in the Berenice war steamer, on the Red Sea to Aden, and thence, on board the Cleopatra, to Bombay. — Entrance into the harbour on the 6th August. - Page 1

Letter II. Addressed To Alexander Von Humboldt

Bombay: the town and harbour. — Native town. — Bazars. — Merchants and artisans. — Colabah. — Domestic establishments of Englishmen of distinction. — Excursions in the environs and to Malabar Point and Pareil. — Burning the dead. — The Parsees. — Gymnastic exercises of the Indians and their Jugglers. — Journey to Poonah. — The chain of Ghauts. — Poonah. — Festivities of the natives in honour of the governor. — Bayaderes. — Mode of life of the English. — Parbutty and the palace of the Peishwa. — Return to Bombay. The rainy season. — Preparations for our journey to Kurrachee. — Establishment of the governor. - - - - 3 CONTENTS.

Letter III. Addressed To Carl Ritter

Embarkation in the war steamer Zenobia, and departure for Kurrachee.— Fearful ravages of the cholera.— Dangerous landing on the coast at Kurrachee. — Kurrachee. — Alligator Pond, Maggar Talao.—- Sinde under the Hindoo princes. — Dominion of the Moguls. — The Ameers of the family of the Talpooris. — Inhabitants of Sinde. — The Belooches. — Life and mode of government of the Ameers. — Language of the inhabitants of Sinde. — The English residents. — Voyage to Garrah. — March to Tatta. — Embarkation on board the Satellite steamer. — Hyderabad. — Audience of the Ameers. — Journey to Sehwan and Sukkur. — Inhabitants. — Projected for the journey to Ferozpoor. - - Page 74

Letter IV. Addressed To Alexander Von Humboldt

Preparations for the journey to Ferozpoor. — Departure for Roree. — Ruins of Allore. — Wedding fete near Sangeram. — March through the desert. — Celebration of the 15th October in the village of Retee. — Passing the boundary of Bhawulpoor. — Ahmedpoor. — Hospitality of the inhabitants. — Khaunpoor. — Welcome of the Khan by an escort. — Entry into Ahmedpoor. — Audience of Bhawulkhan at his country-seat in the desert. — Bhawulpoor. — Journey to Memdot. — The Khan of Memdot. — Dangerous illness of one of our party. — Arrival at Ferozpoor. - 124

Letter V. Addressed To Alexander Von Humboldt

The Punjab. — The Sikhs Runjeet Singh. — His government and position relative to the English. — Suttees. — Burning of the corpse of Runjeet Singh with eleven of his wives. — Dheean Singh and the Fakir Uzeezoodeen. — Maharaja Kurruck Singh and the Rani-Chand-Kour. — Sheer Singh. CONTENTS. XV — Ferozpoor. — Entry of the commanding general into the camp. — Hospitality. — Elephants. — Arrival of the Governor- General Lord Ellenborough His camp and baggage. — The army of reserve. — General Sale passes the Sutlej. — Generals Pollock and Nott. — Present from the Indian government of one of the cannon taken at Kabool to the King of Prussia. — Camp at Ferozpoor. — Entrance of the Rajah Heera Singh, and on the 10th December of the crown prince, Perthaub Singh, accompanied by Dheean Singh. — Grand review and festivities. — Departure of an extraordinary em bassage to Lahore under Mr. Maddock, Member of the Supreme Council. — Journey thither. — The city, and re ception by the Maharaja. — Festivities in Lahore. — Mauso leum of Shah Dura. — Grand review of 60,000 men and 200 pieces of artillery. — Chase. — Farewell audience at Shahlimar. ..... Page 158

Letter VI. Addressed To Carl Hitter

The Anglo-Indian army. — The Sepoys. — The Hindoo and Mussulman. — The European soldier Strength and divisions of the army. — Pay. — The corps of officers. - - 239

Letter VII. Addressed To Alexander Von Humboldt

Return from Lahore to Ferozpoor. — Journey through the protected Sikh states to Samanah. — Chase of the antelope with a leopard. — March with the Governor-General to Dathal, Saqun, Keythul, and Karnaul. — Visit to Paniput and view of the town and of the field of battle. — Haunt of elephants. TRAVELS IN INDIA.

Letter I. To Alexander Von Humboldt

Departure from London to Southampton. — Embarkation on the Tagus steamer. — Falmouth, Gibraltar, Malta, and Alexandria. — Voyage on the Mahmudie canal to Atfeh ; Steam navigation on the Nile. — Cairo. — Journey across the Desert to Suez. — Voyage in the Berenice war steamer, on the Red Sea to Aden, and thence, on board the Cleopatra, to Bombay. — Entrance into the Harbour on the 6th August. Bombay, August 8. 1842. After a prosperous voyage of thirty-seven days, I arrived on the 6th inst, in this land of wonders ! The fact that I have been conveyed in so short a time into a new world seems like a dream, and I should doubt its reality did not all things around convince me of the truth. However, though my imagination is most powerfully excited, and I have an interminable succession of occupation, I will at once attempt to give you a sketch of my voyage hitherward.

I passed my last day in London with our hospitable Consul-General, Mr. Hebeler, who had invited VOL. I. B EMBARK AT SOUTHAMPTON. some of our countrymen to meet me, and whose amiable lady gave a charm to the social entertainment by her graceful and animated conversation. I was unfortunately obliged to decline an invitation from the Duke of Sussex, with whom I had previously had a long and very interesting conversation ; little thinking that it was the last time that we should meet in this life, for I had to leave London that same day, and, attended by the good wishes of our ambassador, I started by the railway for Southampton. Spite of the sailor's prejudice I embarked on Friday, 1st July, on board the splendid steamer the Tagus, of 350 horse-power. The morning was unpleasant ; light showery clouds driven by the wind covered the sun, and I was wet through before I reached the vessel.

Here all was bustle and activity : while the roaring and hissing of the steam announced our speedy departure, goods of all kinds were hastily put on board, and the porters and sailors ran backwards and forwards, stowing the luggage and making other preparations. Most of the passengers were on deck surrounded by their friends ; here was a father giving his last advice and blessing to his son ; there brethren and friends bade each other a long adieu, while husband and wife parted, perhaps for ever; and a farewell salute was given to others by friends amon"- the crowd assembled on shore. I alone stood like an isolated being ; there was none to press my hand and take my last fond wishes to my friends at home ; but in spirit I sent a thousand kind remembrances to those I love. At six o'clock the first gun gave the signal for separation, and a few minutes afterwards a second announced our departure.

The Tagus, which was intended for the passage to Lisbon only, was FALMOUTH. 3 now setting out for her first voyage to Egypt, in the place of the Oriental, which was under repair • as we passed this fine vessel the crew gave us some hearty cheers, which were warmly re-echoed by our sailors. Our company consisted of between fifty and sixty persons, chiefly officers who were going to join their regiments in India, several naval officers, merchants, and a clergyman with his family, who were bound for Malta. The spacious deck, and the splendidly furnished saloon, which was provided with a library and newspapers, were far preferable to our small uncomfortable cabins, and we all accordingly amused ourselves either with promenading the deck, or with reading, writing, and conversation. While steering our course between the French coast and the lovely Isle of Wight, the sky cleared up, and a light fresh breeze blew ahead ; but the rolling of the vessel compelled many ofthe passengers to pay an involuntary tribute to Neptune ; I, too, felt very uncomfortable, though I did not suffer from sea-sickness either then or afterwards.

On the 2d July, at nine in the morning, we came in sight of the rocks which enclose the harbour of Falmouth. Shortly before entering it we took a pilot on board, who conducted us through the narrow channel, leaving on the left hand a reef of rocks, on which stood a small black tower, and at half-past nine o'clock we cast anchor at about 800 paces from the town. Here we had to wait for the India mail, which was not brought on board till four o'clock, and consisted of fifty-six large chests of letters, and other packages. We immediately weighed anchor, and before sunset we were on the wide Atlantic, bounded on all sides by the bright blue canopy of heaven. B LIFE ON BOARD. A ship life, unless broken by some special circum stances, is so regular, monotonous, and, in long voyages, often so wearisome, that in giving a de scription of one day I make you tolerably well acquainted with the general tenour of our life.

Our captain is a grave, reserved man, and has little inter course with his officers except on matters of duty. At sunrise the crew begin cleaning and scouring the deck ; the ship's bell indicates the hours, and when it strikes nine we assemble in the great saloon, at breakfast, which, according to English fashion, consists of hot and cold meats, &c. After breakfast, and again at about twelve o'clock, the captain and his officers regularly determine the position of the ship, and the passengers eagerly inquire how many miles we have made in the last twenty-four hours, and what is our latitude and longitude ? On Sundays and holydays, we all assemble about eleven o'clock for divine worship, which is performed by the clergyman : when there is no clergyman on board the captain reads prayers. On other days we each pursue our own occupations, or seek exercise and recreation on deck.

At twelve o'clock, we take a second breakfast, and at four o'clock the steward summons us to an exceedingly good dinner which consists of three courses, and a variety of wines. After this we generally spend the evening on the quarter-deck, where tea and conversation while away the time. If the weather be fine, the pure air and the brilliancy of the starry heavens keep many of us on deck till midnight. The only interruptions to our life in its monotonous flow are passing vessels, shoals of dolphins, or a storm of wind. We encountered a heavy squall which drove MAFRA, CINTRA, CAPE TRAFALGAR. our ponderous steamer as if it had been a plaything, towards the coast of Spain, which came in sight on the morning of the 5th of July ; and, when we were off Cape Finisterre, a brisk north wind swelled our sails, so that by the aid of wind and steam we pro ceeded at the rate of ten miles an hour.

Among my fellow-passengers I was particularly interested with Colonel M'Neile, Captain Forbes, of the Madras army, and Lieutenant Miaulis, a son of the celebrated Greek admiral, who was educated at Munich, and is now serv ing in the British navy. His frank, cheerful manners greatly attracted me ; we mutually communicated our little adventures to each other ; and the enthusiastic Greek, with sparkling eyes and animated gestures, recounted the deeds of his heroic father. On the 7th and 8th we enjoyed serene weather and pure air under the lovely blue of this southern sky. On the preceding day, about noon, we met several Por tuguese schooners, as we were passing between the wild rugged Berlinga rocks, of whose proximity the navi gator is warned by a lighthouse in the little Fort St. Goa, and, at three o'clock, descried the once celebrated Mafra, whose large monastery, situated on an eminence near the city, is visible at a great distance.

Soon after wards we passed Cintra ; and at seven o'clock Lisbon rose before us, like a panorama, in its entire extent and all its beauty. From this point we kept at a greater distance from the coast, which we did not see again till the following morning. Several vessels passed us, one of which had lost its foremast in a storm. At sunset we sailed by the celebrated Cape Trafalgar, and approached the Straits of Gib raltar : it was a remarkably fine evening, the air was warm yet refreshing, the sky resplendent with innu- B STRAITS OF GIBRALTAR. merable stars, the sea slightly agitated, and profound silence prevailed on board our vessel. This, and the expectation of soon entering another sea, induced me to remain on deck till we should reach the harbour of Gibraltar. About eleven o'clock a stormy wind suddenly arose, which -several times extinguished our lantern, and we were very near coming into collision with another vessel, the crew of which set up a loud cry.

Their apprehensions were, however, groundless, for notwithstanding the darkness of the night, we had fortunately perceived their ship in time to avoid any accident. The nearer we approached the lighthouse, the more violent did the storm become ; but as soon as we had passed it, and were in the Straits, a complete calm suddenly succeeded. About half past three o'clock on the following morning, a gun was fired as a signal to the inhabitants of Gibraltar that we had cast anchor in the road. We were not able to observe the solar eclipse which afterwards took place, as the sun was obscured by clouds. Gibraltar lies at the foot of a rock 1437 feet high, which declines, more or less abruptly, towards every side ; on the east it rises from the sea like a wall, and runs out in a rugged promontory nearly 500 paces in length into the Mediterranean.

On the Spanish side it is perfectly level, and forms a semicircle around the harbour, and, opposite Gibraltar, joins other masses of rock at the entrance. This harbour is one of the finest in the world, and is capable of receiving the largest men of-war. The town and fortress lie on the declivity towards the harbour : the fortress consists of a wall which surrounds the town with salient angles and bulwarks ; they are most extensive on the flanks, and are commanded by some works situated above them, GIBRALTAR. and by several batteries hewn in the rocks, the guns of which hang in chains. Gibraltar is nearly impreg nable by its natural position, and on the Spanish side may be isolated by inundating the plain. Wherever the rocky soil would permit, orange trees have been planted, and gardens laid out.

Cactus and aloes grow luxuriantly to the very summit of the rock, the re treat of herds of monkeys, which, like the Capitoline geese of old, were distinguished during a siege, and consequently have ever since been looked upon as sacred animals, which are not to be molested. Accompanied by several of my fellow-passengers, I took a small boat and went on shore. I cannot de scribe to you the elevating yet melancholy feeling that filled my heart as I trod the beautiful soil of Spain, the most southern point of Europe. The busy life of early morning met us on our landing ; mules laden with vegetables, fruit and corn, driven by peasants in their singular costume ; fine vigorous men with the most expressive countenances, wearing the broad brimmed hat, the cloak, thrown like a toga over the shoulder and presenting a most picturesque appearance, encountered us at every step.

In the markets we were struck with the peculiarities and the animated manners ofthe natives of the South, contrasted with the calm serious deportment of the English in their scarlet uniforms and the Scotch in their Highland dress. We spent some hours in viewing the little town and the fortifications, and while we were amusing ourselves with these scenes, the women and girls riding on heavily-laden asses scrutinised Us coquettishly with their piercing black eyes. Fatigued by the heat and unwonted exercise, we went into the best inn for refreshment: here they B THE AFRICAN COAST. charged us three shillings each for a very indifferent breakfast, and I was therefore not surprised, though rather amused, to hear the Engbsh call these people rogues and scorpions. Meantime our vessel had taken in coals and pro visions for the voyage to Malta.

We hastened on board, and at twelve o'clock we were already in the Medi terranean, which extended before us as smooth as a mirror ; the air was warm without being oppressive, and the sky unclouded. This fine weather continued till Saturday 13th, and our vessel made ten miles an hour. On Friday evening we approached the African coast, where the lofty Atlas chain with its bare, rugged limestone rocks rose above the clouds, and long bore us company. We sailed along these classic lands, rich in traditions and historical interest, where Dido founded her States, whei'e Æneas sought protection, and where Hannibal, Scipio, Jugurtha, Cæsar, the Vandals, the Arabs, the Spaniards, and the French have borne their warlike arms. What ample stores of history, what busy, varying fortunes of nations and individuals were recalled to our minds as we glided rapidly onwards !

On Saturday towards evening the wind had col lected dense black clouds over the mountains : while we were watching their everchanging forms, we sud denly saw a globe of fire fall from heaven ; it was as large as the moon, and bursting in a few seconds, it illuminated the coast and the sea with magnificent though transitory splendour; soon afterwards vivid flashes lightened up the whole scene, so that Mount Atlas often appeared as if standing in an ocean of fire. On Monday the wind and sea became more calm, and we were able to enjoy the view of the coast once more MALTA at our ease. We saw the Bay of Tunis, the site of ancient Carthage, and passed close to the rocky island of Zembra, and the island of Pantellaria, famed for its wine. On Tuesday we had a brisk east wind, and at five o'clock on the following morning we were in sight of Malta.

The entrance into a new harbour in a foreign country is an event full of expectation to a stranger, and we accordingly all came on deck, eagerly making observations and inquiries. Malta has the appearance of a bare, sterile, rocky island, which seems to owe its origin to a recent volcanic convulsion. A few orange trees, some vines and fruit trees, trained against artificial walls, and growing in soil which had been fetched from Sicily, was all that presented itself to our view. Close to the shore, at intervals of 600 or 800 paces, there are towers, some round, others square, each provided with a twenty-four pounder for the defence of the coast. We saw the flags hoisted on the lighthouse at La Valetta, to announce our arrival to the pilots and to the governor. At half past eight we took on board a pilot, who soon conducted us through a narrow channel into one of the most spacious harbours in the world.

It consists of the entrance harbour and three smaller ones branching off to the east, and is bounded by calcareous rocks, from 200 to 300 feet in height, on the most westerly of which the city rises in the form of terraces. A fine sight here presented itself to our view ; a large fleet of men-of-war and war steamers, under the com mand of Admiral Owen lying at anchor. The harbour and town are defended by innumerable works and batteries, which are admirably placed and con structed ; the only fault is that there are too many of MALTA them. On the side of the principal harbour, separated from the town, is the quarantine-harbour : I refrain from any further description of this island, interesting in so many points of view, because you are well acquainted with it, and shall content my self with relating the occurrences of the two days which I passed here.

We had scarcely cast anchor, when we were sur rounded by boats, from which our ears were assailed with loud, shrill cries, resembling those of Naples when passengers are about to land. I hired a boat and made for the Queen, in order to look for Lieutenant Johnston, whose father, Sir Alexander, had kindly favoured me with a letter to him. He is a fine young man, full of life and spirit, and bid me a hearty welcome, introduced me to his messmates, and con ducted me over every part of this floating palace. The Queen carrying 110 guns, 204 feet long, 60 broad, and 46 deep, with a crew of 1000 men, had been launched only a few months before, and is probably at this time the largest and handsomest man-of-war in the British navy. Here, where the strictest discipline and order prevail, where simplicity with adaptation to the object are combined in the highest perfection, we are irresistibly impressed with the power of England ; these are the fibres which she throws out on every side, with which she encompasses the earth, as with a spider's web, and appropriates to herself the empire of the seas.

The spacious saloon and dining-room are well supplied with books and maps ; in the officers' cabins a thirty-two-pounder is placed close to each bed, otherwise each is furnished according to the taste of the respective occupant, and here, too, food for the mind is never wanting. As we passed through the magazines, the arsenal, the store-rooms, and the MALTA 11 lazaretto, I had an opportunity of remarking the regularity and order of the crew ; but the finest sight was on the upper deck, where the vessel is seen at once in its entire extent, with its intricate network of cordage and ladders. After we had spent two hours in inspecting the vessel, Lieutenant Johnston took me to the Howe of 120 guns, which, however, is nine feet narrower than the Queen ; we next visited the Indus of 84 guns, which bears on the upper deck, as an admonitory warning, Nelson's celebrated words before the battle of Trafalgar — "England expects every man to do his duty."

At three o'clock, we were again on board the Queen, where I dined in the company of the highly ac complished officers. Johnston afterwards accompanied me into the town, and showed me the palace, for merly belonging to the grand master, now the residence of the governor, the armoury, and the fine church of St. John's. Here we parted : my young friend was obliged by his duty to return to his ship, while I was tempted, by the coolness of the evening, to linger for some time in the town, so that it was dark when I reached the Tagus. The next morning at sun-rise I again went ashore to view the fortifications, and about twelve o'clock returned on board, quite exhausted with my fatiguing excursion. Preparations were already made to put to sea, for the steamer had arrived from Marseilles with the English mail.

Meanwhile,* we amused ourselves with watching the diving of some lively boys, who willingly went to the bottom of the sea, to fetch up some copper coins. The weather was perfectly fine when we weighed anchor at three o'clock in the afternoon, but towards ALEXANDRIA. evening a westerly wind with rain arose. On Friday the 15th, a south-east wind cooled the air, rain alternated with sunshine, and in the evening continued flashes of lightning, in the west, illumined the sky and the sea; on Saturday, the wind abated, a total calm succeeded, and we were surrounded by a glassy sea under an unclouded sky. On Monday, however, at three o'clock in the afternoon, while we were passing the Arab towers, the sea suddenly became greatly agitated, our vessel pitched, heaved, and the waves dashed over her forepart, with such violence that we could not proceed more than seven knots an hour.

We were scarcely eight miles from the coast; a scorching wind passed over the arid plains of Africa, and we saw the hot vapour floating over the dazzling white sand ofthe desert. Shortly afterwards we descried the light-house of Alexandria. About two miles before the entrance into the harbour, which has a sufficient depth of water, but at one point is scarcely 200 paces broad, we had considerable difficulty in taking a pilot on board, near the vicinity of the coast, where some hundreds of small stone windmills are erected. In boarding our vessel this handsome, long-bearded Turk dropped his slippers, and seemed more disposed to leave us to our fate than to lose them. The sun was sinking towards the horizon as we entered the harbour, which presented a very ani mated scene — the Pacha's fleet, consisting of more than twenty men-of-war of various sizes, lying at anchor within it.

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