Recollections of four years service in the East, with H.M. Fortieth Regiment

Front matter

RECOLLECTIONS OF FOUR YEARS' SERVICE IN THE EAST WITH H. M. FORTIETH REGIMENT. London PiBentlfr. ¥ew Burling ) RECOLLECTIONS OF FOUR YEARS' SERVICE IN THE EAST WITH H.M. FORTIETH REGIMENT: COMPRISING AN ACCOUNT OF THE TAKING OF KURACHEE IN LOWER SCINDE, IN 1839; OPERATIONS IN UPPER SCINDE IN 1840 AND 1841; AND THE OPERATIONS OF THE CANDAHAR DIVISION OF "THE AVENGING ARMY OF AFFGHANISTAN" IN 1841 AND 1842; UNDER MAJOR-GENERAL SIR W. NOTT, G.C.B. By J MARTIN BLADEN NEILL CAPTAIN IN THE FORTIETH REGIMENT. LONDON: RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET fa ©rfcmavB to Sltr fHajeSt-D. 1845. LONDON: Printed by S. & J. Bkntley, Wilson, and Fley, Bangor House, Shoe Lane. TO LIEUT.-COLONEL HIBBERT, C.B., 40th REGIMENT. My dear Colonel, I know no one to whom I can more appro priately inscribe the following pages than to the Officer who, with but one short interruption, com manded the 40th Regiment during the period of which I attempt to treat, and who held the proud position of being its leader, when to its other glorious achievements were added " Candahar" — " Ghuznee"—" Cabul,"— 1842.

I beg you will accept the dedication of this Narrative to you as a slight acknowledgment of the numerous kindnesses I have received at your hands during the many years we have served together, and as a grateful recollection of the facilities afforded me by these kindnesses in the per formance of my duties as Adjutant in the field, during an eventful period, and under circumstances of no ordinary difficulty. I am, My dear Colonel, Yours most sincerely and faithfully, J. Martin Bladen Neill. Army and Navy Club, St. James's Square, June 2nd, 1845.

Preface

. The following pages would perhaps be more appropriately entitled " Random Recollections" — of Associations connected with the great and eventful Military Operations, in which the writer had the peculiar good fortune to participate. Upwards of two years have now elapsed since General Nott made his glorious and successful advance from Candahar ; and it is with a regret akin to shame that the writer finds, that among the many officers in the Candahar army, no one, not even from the General's Staff, has been found to come forward and give a Military account of the Administration of Affairs in western Affghanistan in 1841 and 1842, by one of the most distinguished men whose deeds have for years shed a lustre over our actions in the East. The Author is keenly alive to his own inability to do justice to the reputation of his General, and he hopes that the very imperfect and inadequate attempt which he makes to depict events connected with the name of " Nott," may be the means of

PREFACE.

. VIII rousing from lethargy some one of higher talent and more extensive information, who will, in doing justice to the " illustrious dead," confer a benefit on the public, by giving a faithful and detailed account of the actions of the Candahar Army and its distinguished leader. Should such a result be effected, the Author will feel that although his labours have been but slight they will not have been in vain. During the period of which he attempts to treat, the Author kept a journal, in which he carefully recorded, as they occurred, all incidents worthy of note. This journal was carried off with his baggage by the enemy in the Khyber Pass, when the campaign in Affghanistan might almost be said to have closed ; and he was thus deprived of the best means of refreshing his memory. Finding, however, on his return home, that many of his letters written in India and Affghanistan had been preserved, he amused himself by devoting his leisure hours to the compilation of the following narrative, the perusal of those letters having suggested the possibility of his not altogether failing in an attempt at authorship.

While engaged in his work, he was fortunate enough to supply some of the deficiencies in his letters, from a journal of events connected with the advance of the army from Candahar, by his friend Lieutenant Carey, 40th ; and since the work has gone to press, he has been enabled to make some slight alterations, at the suggestion of his old

PREFACE.

. IX friend and comrade Lieutenant Alex. Nelson, — an officer who performed the duties of Sub-assistant Commissary-general to the Bombay Troops in the Candahar Army, during the most stirring and arduous period embraced in the Author's narrative, with a zeal and abilitv which contributed much •* to the comfort and efficiency of the troops, and secured for him the marked approval of his General. The Author is at a loss to express the sense he entertains of the obligation conferred upon him by Mr. Thomas Brigstocke, in permitting an engraving for his book to be taken from this distinguished artist's admirable portrait of General Nott, now exhibiting in the Royal Academy. He is fully alive to the extent of the kindness of that per mission, and feels assured that the value of his work is much enhanced by the circumstance that, embodied with it is the portrait of the gallant and lamented Commander of " The Veterans of Candahar."

The writer is aware that he has entered on ground which has been frequently and well de scribed. Should he in any part of his narrative echo sentiments which have already appeared be fore the public, he is entirely unconscious of the plagiarism, and in such case he trusts that some satisfaction may be derived by his predecessors from the fact, that they are not singular in their views and opinions. X

PREFACE.

. The Author is vain enough to hope that, not withstanding the many faults, imperfections, and perhaps puerilities, which may be found to abound in his work, it will not prove altogether uninter esting to the general reader ; he will, therefore, make no apology for intruding it on the public, but would crave leave to remark, that in the hurry and bustle of active military service, a soldier can spare but little time from the performance of his duties for collecting information unconnected with them, and that consequently — " In vain sedate reflections he would make, When half his knowledge he must snatch — not take." June '2nd, 1845. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Page

Order to March. — Consequent Joy and Excitement. — Unnecessary Accumulation of Baggage.— Regrets at De parture. — Present System of Officers purchasing Houses : Expense and Inconvenience caused to Officers thereby — Hospitalities at Deesa. — March from Deesa. — Visit of Rajah of Rahdunpoor. — His Palace. — Famine in Cutch. — Exorbitant Charges for Camels, (fee. — Run of Cutch. — Mirage. — Anticipation of Active Employment at Kurachee. — Good Conduct of the 40 th Regiment. . . . 1

Chapter II

Arrival at Mandavie. — H. M. S. Wellesley. — Artillery and Sepoys awaiting us. — Ordered to proceed on board Flag ship. — Embarkation. — Reception from Officers of Welles ley. — Anxiety on Account of Disappearance of Three Officers. — Sail for Kurachee. — Arrival there. — Anchor off Minhora — Capture of that Fort. — Surrender of Kurachee. — Bivouac at Minhora. . . . . . . .14

Chapter III

Proceed to Kurachee. — Appearance of Kurachee. — Description of. — Force employed on Fatigue Duty. — Mug ger Talloa. — The Hot Springs.— Departure of H. M. S. Wellesley Severe Squalls at Kurachee. — Melancholy Event in Sir J. Keane's Army. . . . . .26

Chapter IV

Brigadier Valiant proceeds to Tatta. — Decides on its unfitness for a Cantonment. — Camels carried off. — Cholera breaks out in Camp. — Its Ravages. — Murder of Captain Hand. — Cholera continues to rage. — Death of Colonel Powell and Lieutenant Mag-nay. — Night Attack. CONTENTS. PAGE

Chapter V

Orders to hut the Men. — Difficulty in procuring Wood. ■Officers determine generally on living in Tents. — Dust Storms in Scinde.— Sickness of the Troops. — Rumours of War. — Excessive Heat in May. — Death of Mr. Irwin. — Departure of Brigadier Valiant. — Setting in of the Mon soon. — Bad Construction of Pendalls. — Cause of Sickness. — Execution of Chaka Kalifa. — Storm and Capture of Ghuznee. — Sickness at Tatta. ....... 48

Chapter VI

Communication by Sea re-opened. — Capture of Khelat. — Cholera at Sukkur. — Arrival in Camp of Officers from the Advance. — Officers ordered off on Court-martial Duty to Sukkur. — Queen's Royal Regiment arrive in Camp. — Relieved from Duties of Adjutant. — -Arrival of Lord Keane. — Presents New Colours to 40th Regiment. — Departure of Lord Keane. — Arrival of H. M. 17th Regiment. — Depar ture of Queen's Royals. — Wreck of the Transport " Hannah." . . * 59

Chapter VII

State of Upper Scinde and Affghanistan. — Destruction of Lieutenant Walpole Clarke's Detachment. — Wing of the 40th detached to Upper Scinde. — Defeat of Major Clibborn at Nuffoosk. — Fall of Khelat. — Head-Quarters of the 40th ordered to Upper Scinde. — Difficulty of procuring Camels: — Limited Number allowed to Troops. — 40th and Artillery march for Sehwan. — Arrival of H. M. 41st at Kurachee. — Country between Kurachee and Sehwan. Gorban Pass. — Misfortune to Cattle. . . . .68

Chapter VIII

Sehwan.— Its Scenery, Position, and Principal Buildings. — The Castle of Sehwan.— Right Wing of 40th engaged at Cunda.— Dadur relieved by Major Boscawen. — Escape of CONTENTS. XIII FACE 82 105 124 Nussur Khan. — Murder of Lieutenant Loveday. — Artillery and Heavy Baggage proceed by River to Larkhana. — 40th cross the Arul. — Country between Sehwan and Larkhana. — Arrival at Larkhana. — Description of Larkhana. — Lieu tenant Sealy with Artillery rejoins Detachment. — March to Sukkur. — Arrival there. — Defeat of Dhost Mahommed.

Chapter IX

Sukkur. — Defeat of Nussur Khan by Colonel Marshall. — Clibborn Commission. — Rumours of Extended Operations. — March of Army under General Brooks from Sukkur. — Shikarpoor. — Hawking. — H. M. 41st and Artillery directed to return to Sukkur. — Desert March. — Attempt at Hog Huntingv — Right Wing of H. M. 40th rejoins Head-Quarters.— The Scinde Boil 93

Chapter X

Force under Colonel Wilson proceeds to Kujjuk. — Defeat of our Troops. — General Brooks proceeds with Reinforce ments to the Scene of Disaster Enemy evacuate Kujjuk. — Storm. — Night March. — Description of Kujjuk.

CHAPTER XL

Detachment occupies Kujjuk. — Death of Colonel Wilson. — Sale of Prize Property at Kujjuk. — Destruction of Kujjuk. — Musket and Bayonet. — March for Dadur. — Dadur. — Bolan Pass 113

Chapter XII

Quettah. — Deaths among the Cattle from a Poisonous Herb in lucerne. — Bursting of a Water-course. — Adventure to a Party of " Skinner's Horse." — Dreadful Sickness at Quettah. — Expedition under Colonel Soppit. — Command of Force assumed by Brigadier England. — Sanatory Report on the State of Quettah. — Savage Murder of Mrs. Smith. — Nusseer Khan. — Departure of Major Bosca wen." CONTENTS. XIV PAGE

Chapter XIII

March from Quettah.— Kooshlac Pass.— Hyderzye.— Hykulzie.— Syed Rokun Kagote. — Arumbee. — Killa Abdoolah. — Kojuk Pass. — Country between Kojuk Pass and Canda har. — Disturbances in North of Affghanistan. — Candahar Cantonments. — Ukrum Khan. — Candahar. — Brigade under Colonel Mac Laren marches en route to Cabul. — Brigade returns. — Bengal Sepoys. — 16th Regiment. . . .133

Chapter XIV

Colonel Mac Laren's Brigade detained at Candahar. — Disaffection of the Affghans. — Alarm on Christmas-Day. — Mur der of Lieutenant Golding. — The Jan Baz. — Defeat of Jan Baz by Captain Leeson. — Prince Sufter Jhung joins Enemy's Camp. — Difficulty in obtaining Supplies. — Battle of Ur ghundaub. — General Nott receives Instructions to evacuate Candahar. . . . . . . . . . 152

Chapter XV

Steeple Chase at Candahar.— Fives Playing. — Force ordered out to attack Enemy's Head-Quarters. — Prevented by sudden Fall of Snow — Sickness at Candahar. — Want of Medicines. — Cholera. — Death of Lieutenant Armstrong. o — Force under General Nott takes the Field. — Operations during Six Days. — Desperate Night Attack on Candahar. — Its Fortunate Repulse. — General Nott's Policy. — Moral Effect Marches 168

Chapter XVI

Continued Disaffection of the Affghans.— Attempts to murder Europeans — Fatal Effects of Disobedience of Orders. — Summary Revenge on an Affghan Arrival of Lord Ellenborough — Affair at Baboowalla. — Fall of Ghuznee. Defeat of General England — Success at Jellalabad.—Colo nel Wymer marchgs for Kojuck Pass.— Arrival of General CONTENTS. XV PAGK England. — Death of Shah Soojah. — Brigade marches for Relief of Kelat-i-Gilzie. — Defence of Kelat-i-Gilzie and Re pulse of Ghilzies. — Destruction of Kelat-i-Gilzie. — Affair near Candahar.— Return of Relieving Brigade from Kelat-i- Gilzie . . . .187

Chapter XVII

Preparations for leaving Candahar. — Dehra Ishmael Khan. — Troops leave Cantonments. — Explosion. — Evacuation of Candahar. — Advance on Cabul. — Affair at Killa Azeem. — Death of Captains Bury and Reeves.- — Goaine. — Huzaurehs. — Capture of Ghuznee. — Jubbur Jhung. — Description of Ghuznee. — Rosah. — Tomb of Mahmood. — Gates of Somnauth 208

Chapter XVIII

March from Ghuznee. — Destruction of Fort where Captain Woodburn had been killed.- — Attack on Camp. — Beni- Badam. — -Recovery of some of the Cabul Prisoners. — Sir Richmond Shakespeare. — Candahar Division arrives at Ca bul. — General Pollock comes over to Candahar Camp. — His Interview with General Nott. — General Sale marches with a Brigade en route to Bamean. — Return of the Prisoners. — General Nott. — Cabul. — Tomb of the Emperor Baber. — Cabul Valley. — Lady Sale and the Female Captives. — Force pro ceeds to Istaliff under General MacCaskill. — Victory at Istaliff. — Destruction of Cabul Bazaar. ..... 244

Chapter XIX

March from Cabul. — Khourd Cabul Pass. — Tezeen. — Re lief of Rear-Guard. — Major Saunders. — Sheh Baba. — Kut tey Sungh. — Award of Medal and Batta. — Jugdulluk. — Soorkaub. — Gundamuck. — Neemlah. — Futtey-Aboud. — ■ Sultanpoor. — Death of Captain Ravenscroft. — Jellalabad. — Ali-Baghan. — Battee Kote-Bussole. — Dukka. — Khyber Pass. — Rear-Guard Duty in Khyber Pass. — Loss of Guns with CONTENTS. XVI PAGE General MacCaskill's Division. — Loss of Camels in Khyber Pass. — Ali-Musjid. — March from Ali-Musjid and Destruc tion of that Fort. — Lieutenants Terry and Chamberlain wounded. — Candahar Army encamped in Plains of Pesha wur. — Achievements of " Army of Afghanistan." — Attacks on the Army by the Press. . . . . . .270

Chapter XX

Death of Lieutenant Terry. — General Avitabile. — Peshawur. — Army marches en route to India. — Attack. — Incident to Lieutenant Seymour. — Rawul Pindee. — Small-pox breaks out in Army. — Maunicyaula. — Rhotas. — River Jheelum (Hydaspes). — River Chenab (Acesines). — River Ravee (Hy draotes.) ■ — River Sutledge (Hypasis). — Candahar Division marches into Ferozepore. 299

Chapter XXI

Lord Ellenborough's Government — Grand Review of the Forces at Ferozepore. — Breaking up of the Army. — Farewell Address of General Nott to the Candahar Force. — Receive Orders to return to England with Colonel Hibbert, &c. — Departure. — Lieutenant Henry Seymour 315 Appendix ....... , 323 ERRATUM. Page 1 31 , line 10, for " one of the few decidedly efficient men," read " decidedly one of the most efficient men,*" &c. RECOLLECTIONS OF FOUR YEARS' SERVICE IN THE EAST WITH H. M. FORTIETH REGIMENT.

Chapter I

Order to March. — Consequent Joy and Excitement. — Unnecessary Accumulation of Baggage. — Regrets at Departure. — Present System of Officers purchasing Houses : Expense and Inconvenience caused to Officers thereby, — Hospitalities at Deesa. — March from Deesa. — Visit of Rajah of Rahdunpoor. — His Palace. — Famine in Cutch. — Exorbitant Charges for Camels, &c. — Run of Cutch. — Mirage. — Anticipation of Active Employment at Kurachee. — Good Conduct of the 40th Regiment. In the month of December 1838, H. M. 40th Regiment, then stationed at Deesa, on the north west frontier of Guzerat, received instructions to hold itself in readiness to proceed to Lower Scinde. There it hoped to form part of the corps d'armee of Scinde, which, towards the end of that year, had been assembled at Bombay under his Excel lency the Commander-in-chief of the Presidency, Lieutenant-general Sir J. Keane, for the purpose of carrying out the policy of the Governor-general, B as embodied in his Lordship's celebrated Manifesto, of the 1st of October 1838* The arrival of the order to which I have referred, caused no slight degree of excitement in the lines of H. M. 40th Regiment, and diffused among us considerable joy, in the anticipation that we were yet to share in the honours and perils of the active corps d"armee.

Such joyous hopes of good fortune were, however, but short-lived; for, long ere leaving Deesa, we received the too certain intelligence that the 40th was destined to form part of a corps de reserve which was to be assembled at Kura chee, (a sea-port in Scinde, to the westward of the Indus,) under Brigadier Valiant, K. H., and which was to be stationed in Lower Scinde at different points, as circumstances might render expedient. Continued inactive service, particularly in the East, where regiments are permitted to remain so long at the same station, is apt to produce and encourage indulgence in comforts and luxuries most unnecessary and expensive : it is, in conse quence, surprising how great is the accumulation of articles, supposed at the time of their acquisition to have been essentials, which, when the order for march arrives, are found not only perfectly use less, but in every way cumbersome and vexatious.

In this, as in other things of equal and greater im portance, experience teaches, not wisdom. It would be well were officers, both on their own * Appendix A. WITH H. M. 40TH REGIMENT. 3 account and that of their men, ever to bear in mind the necessity, and compel the observance, of the rule, that nothing is more essential — nay, more im peratively called for, than that the establishments of the members of a corps, individually and collec tively, should be kept in that state which would best enable them at once to take the field; and I feel assured that nothing would more conduce to the attainment of this object, and be of greater ser vice to all classes, than not only the restriction by Government of officers and men to a certain num ber of baggage-cattle, but the strict enforcement of an undeviating adherence to such an order.

It is no unusual circumstance for subalterns, in time of war, to have five or six camels for the carriage of their baggage ; and when such is the case, and other ranks travel in a proportionate degree of grandeur, it is easy to conceive what an unwieldy mass the baggage of an Indian army becomes, — and, as a natural result, how much the duties and anxieties of a rear-guard are increased. Those officers wdio have ever borne part in the preparations for moving a corps in India, even from one station to another, — much more for equipping it for immediate active service, — must remember, with aught but feelings of pleasure or satisfaction, the delays, annoyances, and consequent squander ing of valuable time caused by the arrangements necessary for the disposal of superfluous stores, kit, &c, and the difficulty in procuring the requisite B quantity of carriage for the transport of overgrown baggage.

These observations par parenthese. In a short time, by the exercise of considerable ingenuity and perseverance, our kits were reduced to what we thought marching condition, and we looked anxiously and impatiently for the day on which we were to leave cantonments. Sol dier-like, after having sojourned three years at Deesa, we desired a change of scene ; and yet our joy at leaving this station was mingled with no small share of regret in the contemplation of our approaching separation from the different corps composing the Deesa field-brigade, with whom Ave had been so long and happily associated, and be tween whose officers and ourselves there had sub sisted a more than usual degree of kindness and unity of feeling. Those of the 40th who served at Deesa during 1836, and the two following years, will always recur to these years with lively emotions of pleasure, and, though not the most eventful, will class them among those connected with the most plea surable reminiscences of their Eastern life, — em bittered though the recollection be with the sad conviction, that death has been more than usually busy among the members of the old Deesa brigade, and that many a young and gallant heart which then beat high in life and hope, now rests in the silent tomb, — calm, motionless, unknowing, but not for gotten.

WITH H. M. 40TU REGIMENT. 5 Considerable loss, and no little annoyance, were experienced at this time by the officers of many of the corps which now took the field, from their being obliged to leave the houses they had purchased on entering cantonments, — with no immediate, and but little distant, hope of being able to dispose of them. The system which at pre sent obtains in India, of requiring officers to pro vide themselves with houses in cantonments at their own expense, I cannot but view as objection able. In such a view, I am aware I am far from being singular ; and in embodying my opinions on this, as well as on many other subjects, I shall doubtless say much that has already been said, and in a better and more forcible manner. It must ever be the policy and intention of Go vernment to guard its servants, so far as consistency and a regard for the public interest will permit, against loss : and I conceive that not only would this object be effected, and thereby a great boon conferred on .the officers of the army, but an im mense saving would eventually be made by Govern ment, were all houses in cantonments made public property, and the officers charged a moderate rent, on the same principle as that pursued in garrison.

It is urged by many, that the increased allow ance given to officers in the field is to repay them for any additional expense they may have to incur in the purchase of houses at out-stations ; but I maintain that it can only be viewed as the means of providing them with camp equipage, and of en abling them to defray the increased expense for necessary supplies, caused by the distance at which field-stations are from the Presidencies, whence those supplies generally proceed. To suppose that officers at field-stations should dwell in tents, is to entertain an idea of the practi cability of a measure amounting almost to an im possibility, as not one constitution in a thousand would be able to withstand the enervating influence of such exposure to the heat ; and regiments would thus be deprived of the services of their officers, whose superintendence of, and intercourse with, the men are so essential to uphold the discipline and well-being of the army.

That it is not the intention of Government that officers should be exposed to the risk of thus ruin ing their constitutions, is evident from the fact that at every permanent cantonment, comfortable bar racks are built for the men, and that, on the establishment of new cantonments, officers are entitled to a certain advance from Government, to enable them to build bungalows, — such advance being refunded by deductions from the pay of those officers who take advantage of this Government indulgence. It rarely happens that an officer can rent a house in cantonments ; he is therefore compelled to pur chase one, which seldoms costs less than from 2000 to 3000 rupees, or from 2001. to 3001. : it becomes, WITH H. M. 40TII REGIMENT. 7 therefore, a matter of very serious inconvenience, particularly to the junior ranks, when a regiment is ordered to take the field, and no other is sent to relieve it, as was the case in 1838 with the Queen's Royals at Belgaum, and H. M. 40th at Deesa ; for the proprietors of houses are thus not only deprived of the sum they expended in their purchase, and which, on the eve of a march, would be most ac ceptable, but they are also put to the expense of keeping up a guard, or species of private native police, to look after and keep in repair the property during their absence, or until an opportunity presents itself for its disposal.

All these annoyances would be removed by Go vernment taking the officers' bungalows into their own hands; the deductions for house-rent would soon repay the sum expended in their building or purchase, and very little extra trouble would be entailed on the barrack -master department in the event of the houses becoming unoccupied. Add to all this, there would not be the same inducement for officers to incur (needlessly, I grant,) the very great expense many do in the outward and inward adorning of their houses, — numbers of which are furnished in a style that would not disgrace the drawing-room at home of a gentleman of good for tune. It is frequently absurd — the extent to which the spirit of emulation in furnishing their houses neatly — perhaps with more truth it may be said efeminately— is carried among some officers, and might form a fruitful theme for commentary for those who interest themselves in the cause of extravagance in regimental messes.

Having participated largely in the hospitalities of our friends at Deesa, and having been paid the com pliment of being publicly entertained at dinner by Major-general Brooks commanding, and the officers of the brigade, we marched out of Deesa en route to Mandavie on the morning of the 4th of January, 1839. The depot, consisting of a few sick men, and the women and children of the regiment, were left behind under command of Brevet-captain Stamford. On leaving Deesa, the 40th mustered six hundred and fifty bayonets, and I will venture to say there was not a smarter or more ' service-like' corps in the different armies assembled at this time. Our route at first lay through a part of Guzerat, and resem bled the other portions of this province we had had already seen, being alike distinguished for its generally bleak appearance and vast extent of bauble jungle.

At about forty miles from Deesa, we encamped close to the walls of Rahdunpoor, a place formerly doubtless of consequence, but now possessing little importance. The Rajah, who resides here, and whom we had frequently seen at Deesa, came out in the afternoon to visit us. He drove up to our mess-tent in what had been some hundred years ago a handsome curricle, but which possessed little of the beauty and elegant lightness of the carriages of the present day. His Highness, a handsome delicate looking youth, drove himself ; and seated beside him in his curricle was his minister, a bloated, disgusting, sensual-looking piece of mortality. His retinue was composed of the most perfect rabble I ever saw. Being apprized of his intention to visit us, a guard of honour, composed of the grenadiers of the regiment, was drawn up in front of the mess tent, where on his arrival he was received by Co lonel Valiant, who presented the officers to his Highness.

Before taking his leave, he invited us to a Nautch at his palace in the evening, and all off duty attended, — more for the purpose, however, of seeing the royal abode, than in the hope of deriving amusement or gratification from this most tiresome, discordant, and uninteresting source of native enjoyment and gaiety. At this distance of time, I am unable to give any but a most imperfect description of the interior of the palace ; so far, however, as my recollection serves me, it was even more paltry than the palaces of petty Rajahs generally are, — well stocked with de tached portions of old European furniture — pro bably procured at the sale of some deceased officer's effects — a superfluity of execrable prints, and an un limited supply of very small and exceedingly dis torting mirrors. The citadel was fast going to decay, but as far as I could judge from the hurried inspection I made, it must have been a place of considerable strength.

The town differed in no essential particular from those I have seen in the East, being like them distinguished for narrow streets and close bazaars, and decidedly inferior to none in filth. Shortly after leaving Rahdunpoor, we entered the province of Cutch. Here we found supplies of everything scarce and dear, owing to the dreadful famine of which this land had been the scene, con sequent on there having been, for two seasons, such a very slight monsoon. For miles, hardly a blade of grass was to be seen, and seldom did a symptom of cultivation meet the eye. The gaunt haggard appearance of the natives, spoke painfully and for cibly of the miseries they had endured, and under which they were still labouring. Noble exertions had been made throughout India to raise funds for procuring the necessaries of life for the starving population of this and similarly afflicted districts ; and although much was effected by the princely sum realized by the subscriptions of those possessed of such means of relief, yet, as in all similar cases, it was vain to hope to minister to the wants of all.

Sickness, ever the attendant on famine, was making dreadful ravages; hunger was the incitement to crime; and well authenticated cases of mothers offer ing their children for sale from actual want, were not unfrequent. From the proximity of Deesa to Cutch, it was natural to suppose that we should suffer to some small extent from the influences of the famine with which this neighbouring province had been visited. This we experienced not only in the difficulty found in procuring cattle in sufficient num bers to move the camp-equipage of the 40th, but also in the enormous charges for them, each camel costing us upwards of a rupee per diem, while those of the Bengal division under Sir H. Fane were, we understood, procurable for nine rupees per mensem, — a rate of hire which I believe in the northern provinces is considered rather exorbitant.