A Journal from the Year 1811 till the Year 1815, including a voyage to, and residence in, India, with a tour to the North-Western parts of the British possessions in that country, under the Bengal Government

Front matter

A JOURNAL FROM THE YEAR 1811 TILL THE YEAR 1815, INCLUDING A VOYAGE TO AND RESIDENCE IN INDIA, WITH A TOUR TO THE NORTH-WESTERN PARTS OF THE BRITISH POSSESSIONS IN THAT COUNTRY, UNDER THE BENGAL GOVERNMENT. BY MARIA, LADY NUGENT. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON.— MDCCCXXXIX. SONNET, ON READING THE JOURNALS OF LADY NUGENT. Thou pure and gentle Spirit! as I trace The' unstudied page that pictures forth thy mind. Each virtue I behold in thee combined, The wife, the mother, and the friend, to grace. Pity was thine for all of mortal race, And pious zeal, from bigot rage refined, A humble heart, to God's behest resigned, And faith, whose power the gloomiest thoughts could chase. All vanished! — But 'twere sinful to deplore, Blest soul ! thy second aud immortal birth ! The cares of this dim, troublous spot are o'er, And now the' Almighty Father crowns thy worth With endless bliss. — Yet scarcely art thou more In heaven an angel than thou wast on earth ! R. A. Davenport. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Arrival at the Isle of Wight. — Birth of a Son. — Lines to my Children. — Departure from England. — Touch at Madeira. — Brilliantly luminous appearance of the Sea. — Theatricals on board. — Crossing the Line. — Festivities of the Sailors. — Preparations against Enemies. — Heavy Gales. — Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope. page 1

Chapter II

Landed at Cape Town. — Vineyard of Constantia. — The Government Gardens. — Appearance of Cape Town. — Dutch Style of eating. — Newlands. — Review of the Troops. — Departure from the Cape. — Disputes on Board. — Terrible Swell of the Ocean. — A number of Whales seen. — Baffling Weather. — Violence of the Captain. — A Duel. — Approach the Coast of Bengal. — Saugur Island. — First View of the VOL. I. (I CONTENTS. VI Natives.— Remove to the Pilot Vessel. — Ascend the River Hoogly. — Human Sacrifices at Saugur. — The Pilot's Toilette. — Go on Board the Soonah Moohe. — Arrive at Calcutta. page 40

Chapter III

Ceremonies of reception at Calcutta. — Musquitoes. — Native Prejudices. — Ball at the Government House. — State of religious Feeling at Calcutta. — Conversation with a Brahmin. — Jackalls. — An infant Bride and Bridegroom. — Another Conversation with a Brahmin. — Dying moments of Hindoos. — Pleasant Stratagem of a Brahmin. — A Hindoo holiday. — Hookahs. — The Evening Drive. — The Great Bazaar. — A Calcutta Breakfast. — The Black Hole. — Hurricanes. — Indian Temples. — Mildness of the Hindostanee character. — Bhesties page 82 page 82

Chapter IV

Tatties. — Mrs. Palmer and her Hookah. — Punkahs. — The Orphan School Ball. — Storms. — Shock of an Earthquake. — Birds' Nest Soup. — A Toujou. — Visit from the Nabob of Chitpore. — Use made of their Toes by the Indians. — Dancing- Snakes. — Dinner given to the Nabob of Chitpore. — Splendid CONTENTS. VII Nautch at the Nabob of Chitpore's. — Dancing Women. — A singular Guest. — Fireworks. — Persian Paper. — Preparing for a Tour to the Upper Provinces page 119

Chapter V

Commencement of the Tour. — Novelty of the Scene. — Barrackpore. — Chandernagore. — Chinsurah. — Miraculous Image at Hooghly. — Scenery at Culna. — A Brahmin College. — Picturesque Scenery. — Funeral Piles on the Banks of the River. — Expiring Hindoos. — Visit to the Battle-Field of Plassy. — Arrival of Messengers from the Nawaub of Moorshedabad. — The Dewans of the Nawaub arrive.— Presents. — Burhampore. — Review of the Troops. — Annoyance from Insects. — Arrival at Moorshedabad. — Tombs of Suraja ul Dowlah and Ali Verdi Khan. — Appearance of Moorshedabad. — Breakfast with the Nawaub. — Visit to the Begums. — The Munny Begum. — The Wallady Begum. — Visit from the Nawaub. — Visit from " the Merchant of the World." page 150

Chapter VI

Departure from Moorshedabad. —Jungipoor. — Silk Manufactory.- — Natives painting themselves. — Enter the Ganges. — CONTENTS. Odoonullah. — Rajamahal. — Palace of Sultan Sujah. — Dan ger from Whirlpool and Alligators. — Cascade and Invalid Establishment of Sicligully. — Province of Bahar. — Tomb at Pointee. — Legend respecting it. — Picturesque Prospect from Colgong. — Land at Baugulpore.— Mr. Cleveland and his Monument. — Hill Rangers. — Rock of Janguira. — The Setacoon Well. — Arrival at Monghir. — Family of Vizir Ali. — Monghir described. — The Singing Well. — Monkey and Goat. — Swimming Buffalos. — Amphibious nature of the Natives.- — Unhealthiness of the Dandies or Boatmen. — Windings of the Ganges. — Patna. — Hindoo Piety. — Ap pearance of Patna. — Land at Bankipore. — Mansion of Mr. Wilton. — Immense Granary at Bankipore. — Monument at Hajeepore. — Horse Fair at Hinbar Chilte page 185

Chapter VII

Departure from Bankipore. — Dinapore. — Cantonment at Dinapore — " Memory Middleton." — The Druids called to mind by the Scenery. — Insufferable Swarms of Insects. — Fortress of Buxar. — Grief of a Widower. — Numerous dead Bodies floating in the Ganges. — Visit to Mr. Sweetland. — Inspection of Troops. — Monument to Earl Cornwallis. — Ruins of the Nawaub's Palace. — Monkeys numerous. — Pass the river Goomty. — Arrive at Benares. — Description of the City. — Temple of Vis Vesha. — Benares a sacred City. — Maho- CONTENTS. IX metan Mosque. — Antiquity of Benares.— Religious Proxies. — British Cantonment of Secrole. — Visit to the Cavalry Cantonment at Sultanpore. — Fort of Chunar. — Docility of Elephants. — Receive Melancholy Tidings. — Arrive at Allahabad page 231

Chapter VIII

Review and Inspection of Troops. — Gunpowder Mills. — Gigantic Trees. — Mirzapore. — Cantonment of Turrah. — Situation of Allahabad. — The Fort. — Subterranean Temple. — Human Sacrifices here. — Intricacy and Difficulty of the Navigation of the Ganges. — Beautiful Scenery of Dalmow. — The Javassan Plant. — Enter the Territories of the Nawaub of Lucnow. — The Country apparently not flourishing. — Visit from a singular Fakier. — Childish Amusements of the Natives. — Instances of Tyranny. — Sheorajpore. — A Sepoy going to Dinner. — Nujufgurh. — Sepoy Oblation to the Ganges. — Funeral Rites. — Arrival at Cawnpore. — Visits, Reviews, and Dinners. — Jugglers. — Preparations for visiting- Lucnow page 262

Chapter IX

The Visit to the Court of Lucnow. — Cross the Ganges. — Living X CONTENTS. Telegraphs. — Poverty of the Villages. — The Nawaub's En campment. — Swarms of dexterous Thieves. Viciousness of the Horses. — Caught in dishabille.— Visit from the Nawaub's two Sons. — Breakfast with them. — Cavalcade to meet the Nawaub. — The Meeting. — Proceed to the Nawaub's Palace. — A Dervise. — Presents. — Painted Elephants. — Palaces of the Nawaub and his Sons. — Visit from the Nawaub and his Sons. — Character of the Nawaub. — The Nawaub's Mena gerie.—Fighting Rams. — Revenge of an Elephant. — State Carriages. — The Nawaub's Country House. — An extraordinary Oriental Custom. — Torch Bearers. — Breakfast with the Nawaub. — Constantia. — General Martine. — Gigantic Elephant. — Visit to the Nawaub. — Wonderful Garden. — Splendid Fireworks page 293

Chapter X

Continuation of the Visit to Lucnow.— Lines to Dervise Nawaub. — Lines on a Visit to Lucnow. — Description of the Nawaub's Zenana. — The Nawaub's Sleeping-House. — An Elephant Fight. — Visit from the Nawaub. — Feats of activi ty by Nautch Women. — Some Customs of the Natives. — Breakfast with the Nawaub. — Buildings of Lucnow. — Palace of the Nawaub. — Revolt in the Zenana. — The Roman Gate. — Drawings sent by the Nawaub. — Departure from Lucnow. — Tricks of a Conjuror. — Fight between a Mon- CONTENTS. XI goose and a Serpent. — State of the Nawaub's Territory. — Return to Cawnpore. — Set out on a grand Tour. — Number of Wells. — Acbarpore. — Sagacity of Elephants. — Picturesque Horsemen. — Indian Style of Travelling. — Ajeetmull. — Etawah. — Extraordinary Ravines. — Jeswuntnughur. — Shekhoabad. — Fyrozabad. — Travelling on Cows. — Pagoda, and Tomb, at Ommeidpore. — A Female Assassin. — Arrive at Agra page 320

Chapter XI

Agra depopulated by Shah Jehan. — The Tomb of the Etymad Dowlah. — The Gardens of Acbar. — The Palace of Mirrors. — Dinner at the Palace. — Visit to the Taaje Mahal. — The Fort of Agra. — Lines on seeing the Taaje. — Lines, by a Gentleman, on visiting the Taaje, with Lady Nugent.— The Jumna Mosjud. — Visit Secundra. — The Tomb of Acbar. — Leave Agra. — Carowlee. — Great Gun of Agra. — Buildings in the Fort at Agra. — Description of the Taaje Mahal. — Tombs in the Taaje.— Palace of Acbar at Futtypore Sicri.— Pilgrimage of Acbar and his Consort.— Imperial Amusements.— Letter from Bhurtpore. — Colonel Pohlman. — Arrive at Muttra. — Ice-making.— A magnificent Tomb. — Departure from Muttra page CONTENTS.

Chapter XII

Holy City of Bindrabund. — Sacred Monkeys. — Temples. — Jowar. — A Caravan of Merchants. — Hindoo Superstition with respect to charms.— Coel. — Indian Plough. — Irrigation. —A Thief captured. — Fort of Allyghur. — House of General Perron. — Review of the Seventeenth Foot. — Picturesque Cavalcades. — Women of the Country. — Ruins of Secundra. Crossing a Nullah. — Putpurgunge. — Battle-field of Delhi. — Fording the Jumna. — Enter Delhi. — The Jumna Musjeed. — Relics in the Musjeed. — Tomb of Humaion. — Other Tombs. — Visit to the various Parts of Delhi. — Festival of the Eade. — Return of the Mogul from the Festival. — Ivory Model of the Taaje. — More Rambles through Delhi. — Superstition respecting one of the Gates. — Presentation to the King of Delhi. — Visit to the Zenana. — Painting in the Hall of Audience. — Intrigues of the Palace • • ■ • page etc. etc.

Chapter I

Arrival at the Isle of Wight. — Birth of a Son. — Lines to my Children. — Departure from England. — ■ Touch at Madeira. — Brilliantly luminous appearance of the Sea. — Theatricals on board. — Crossing the Line. — Festivities of the Sailors. — Preparations against Enemies.— Heavy Gales. — Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope. 1811. Saturday, June 1st. — After passing the whole of the month of May in London, fatigued with preparations for, and agitated by the thoughts of, my voyage to India, I arrived at the George Inn, Portsmouth, on my way to the Isle of Wight, expecting in a few days to be confined VOL. I. there ; Miss Macnamara, now Countess M. T. Macnamara, kindly accompanied me. — Before dinner I saw Captain Templar, of the Baring East Indiaman, and made many arrangements for our voyage &c. &c. ; dined at 8, and went to bed at 1 1 o'clock.

Sunday 2d. Did not get up till 12 o'clock, having had a sleepless night. — Miss Macna mara and her maid went to mass — Captain Carpenter, (Sir J. T. Duckworth's Flag Captain), came to say the Admiral's barge would be ready at any hour I wished, to convey me to Ryde ; he brought also a message from Sir Roger Curtis, offering his cutter for that purpose. The wind very high, and the rain, with thunder and lightning, so continual, that in spite of my anxiety to arrive at my destination I found it quite impossible to stir, and therefore appointed 12 o'clock the following day for our voyage. — Dear Miss Macnamara and I passed a quiet day by ourselves, conversing of my beloved children and friends, and laying plans for the future. Monday 3d. Soon after 12 o'clock went in the landau to Portsmouth Point, and embarked in Sir J. T. Duckworth's barge, which conveyed us to Sir Roger Curtis's cutter.

The wind and sea were frightfully high and tempestuous, but I did not like to delay going, for fear of being taken ill at the Portsmouth inn. After many attempts, we found we could not get into Ryde, and therefore tried to land at Nettlestone. The tide, however, was so far out we could not get near enough to the shore, but we fortunately met with the Medusa's barge, going for Captain Bouverie, which took us close to the shore, but then we were obliged to get into a small fishing boat to be hauled up upon the beach, when Miss Macnamara and I both got a very awkward tumble. They were all much alarmed for me, but we both landed quite safe, and were most kindly received by Captain and Mrs. Bouverie. — (Captain Bouverie is Lord Radnor's second son.) The gentlemen of our party walked on to Ryde, and sent a chaise for us, and a cart for our baggage. — On our arrival at that place, we found two dinners prepared for us, but we only partook of one, b at the Union Tavern, that being the inn most pleasantly situated.— At 8 o'clock Captain Car penter took his leave, and Captain Templar attended us to our lodging. —We found all in confusion, and it was 12 o'clock before we got to bed, but not to sleep, for we were both sadly fatigued, and our beds were hard and uncomfortable.

However, I thanked God that I was thus far safe, and felt that I had more cause for gratitude than complaint. Tuesday 4th. Rose nearly half dead, from want of rest, and the fatigue I have lately undergone ; but the morning was fine and our little white cottage quite beautiful. Miss Mac namara most kindly exerted herself to obviate any inconvenience or disaster that might arise from my being taken ill before a proper attend ant was secured, or the arrival of my nurse &c. Saw the medical man and made all the necessary arrangements, and then busied myself in pre paring for the arrival of my dear children, whom I expect to join me here in a few days. Went to bed at 11 o'clock, after receiving a letter from my good husband. Wednesday 5th. A better night — both of us more prosperous to-day. — Captain Bouverie &c. called. — Wrote letters, or conversed all day with Miss Macnamara.

Thursday 6th. Unwell during the night. — My mind very much agitated by letters. — Miss Macnamara was employed in her usual kind offices ; I try to repay her by being cheerful, and complaining as little as possible. Friday 7th. My mind was relieved by more comfortable letters, my dear Nugent has had an explanation with the Duke of York, and all is amicably settled about the wicked business in the House of Commons. — The day quiet, and more composed and satisfactory than usual. Saturday 8th. A happy day. — My dear brothers J. and C. surprised me with a visit, before I was up ; I dressed while they took their breakfast; the day spent in conversation. — I almost forgot all my cares — India — -my voyage — and leaving all I so devotedly and fondly loved behind me, in this dear country. — Went to bed at 12 o'clock.

Sunday 9th. Left my room at 10, and passed day in strolling about and in conversation — anxiously looking out for the arrival of my dear husband and little ones. — Waited tea for them till 10 o'clock, and then, just as I had given up the happy hope of seeing them to night, heard their dear little voices calling out " Mamma!" Precious children! how soon shall I be deprived of this music ! Gave them their supper and saw them all safe in bed. Too happy to sleep myself, but alas ! soon I shall want sleep from far different feelings ! but I will try not to think of it. Monday 10th. This is my excellent husband's birthday. — May God bless and grant him many happy returns of it ! All well and happy around me. — My treasures are full of health and spirits, delighted with every thing, and I with them. — Towards evening my happiness was a little damped, by finding that my dear brothers had stolen away, and without taking leave of me.

Perhaps it is best, that I should be spared the painful pleasure of bidding them farewell. — God bless them ! and grant us all a happy meeting once more in this world. — Passed the greatest part of the day with my little ones. Forbid myself to look forward, and try to enjoy the present, with hope and thankfulness, and with out murmuring. Tuesday 11th. A visit from Lady William Bentinck— she is soon to sail for the Mediter ranean with Lord William ; she too regrets Eng land, but she leaves no children behind ! From this day to Saturday the 15th spent with my children, now and then Sir George taking them to Newport &c. in the mornings, and shewing them all that would amuse them, and in the evenings composing pieces for them to perform for our amusement, and even dear little Emily, scarcely so much as eighteen months old, having a disguise on to play her part.

In short, we made ourselves as happy as possible, till Satur day the 15th, on that day, after a restless night and uneasy day, with continual pains and symp toms that I concealed, having written my letters as usual, as well as made many arrangements, I sat down to dinner at 6 o'clock with Sir George and Miss Macnamara. But my illness in a very short time becoming serious, I consented to have doctor sent for, and all things prepared ; Mrs. Badcock my nurse, and the Indian woman, called an Ayah, having most fortunately arrived from town on Thursday. — About 10 minutes before 8 o'clock my precious little boy was born. May God make me always thankful for this blessing, and for the many and great mercies He has bestowed upon me ! Sunday IGth. All things prosperous, and my dear baby a stout and healthy child.

Monday 17th. Sir George set off for town, where he has a great deal of business to settle, about his command in India &c, and is to attend the grand Fete given by the Regent, on the 19th. He was absent till the 4th of July, and, during that tirne, I saw no company, but confined my self to the society of good Miss Macnamara and my dear children, and reading and writing letters &c, when I was allowed. Mr. Sneyd the cleroy man visited me often, and was a great comfort. My baby continued most prosperous, but I suffered sadly myself, from violent pains in my head, from want of sleep, and my eyes became very weak in consequence. The doctor says, it is all nervous, and so perhaps it is, and no wonder. Saturday July 6th. Our dear little boy was baptised by the names of Charles Edmund — Sir John and Lady M. Murray, Lord Cobham, and Lady Fortescue, being sponsors.

I returned thanks just before he was christened, and our whole party received the Sacrament. — The even ing was quietly passed by ourselves, and without admitting visitors. From this time till the 20th watching: the winds, but they continued adverse to our sailing. My feelings mixed and various — sometimes quite happy with my children, and seeing the dear baby thriving so well — then again, almost in despair, at the idea of parting with them. On Saturday the 20th we embarked on board the Baring East Indiaman — but I wish to forget all I felt on that day. Passed a wretched night, and on Sunday, the 21st, the wind came round to its old point, and we returned once more to our dear ones, with whom we spent another almost happy week — it seemed to me as if the spell were broken, and this return was a delightful omen of our getting safe back in some five or six years ; — but what a space of time ! we must try and not think of it !

Saturday 27th. Embarked once more ! a dreadful night indeed, but I will determine to conquer myself, and be a comfort to my dear husband, if possible. — Got up and joined the party on deck at 4 o'clock — dined in the great cabin, and walked on deck in the evening — I see my dear Nugent suffers as much as I do, but he does not indulge his grief, and I must endeavour to follow his example. — My greatest, my only consolation is in prayer, and I find my self able to put on a calm appearance often, when my heart is nearly breaking. — All day at anchor in the Falmouth Roads. The hour is past— Oh hour of woe ! Children beloved, a long adieu ! But, though to distant climes I go, A mother's heart remains with you. Nor shall that heart know rest or peace, Nor shall that heart forget its care, Nor shall, while absent, ever cease Thy tender mother's fervent prayer.

And may that God who sits on high, Who every thought and wish can see, The secret sob, the smothered sigh, The bitter tears oft shed for thee ; In mercy may He grant me this, The only blessing I implore, The dear delight, the heartfelt bliss, To see my darling babes once more ; Once more in Westhorpe's shades to roam, The dear ones sporting by my side, And never more I'll quit my home, For India's glory, India's pride. And oh ! may he, whose manly care Chases my grief in accents sweet, My happiness be doomed to share, And make that happiness complete ! Monday 29th. The wind fair and we got through the Needles. Wednesday 31st. Spoke some ships coming up the Channel — wrote letters &c. Thursday August 1st. Got into the Bay of Biscay — the ship rolling sadly and poor Sir George not at all well. — Lat. 48.

Friday 2d. The wind against us, and the weather drizzly and thick. — The six or seven following days we were standing along the coast of Spain and Portugal, and trying to weather Cape Finisterre. Friday 9th. The wind more favourable, and we hope soon to steer our course direct for Madeira. Saturday 10th. Last night we ran a great risk, the wind came suddenly round to the N. E. and took the ship aback with all her sails set, but the goodness of Providence preserved us, and the wind is now again in our favour. Sunday 11th. The Rev. Mr. Colman read prayers, and gave us a very good sermon in the cabin, as the wind was too high for us to assem ble on deck. Monday 12th. The wind more moderate, and we hope to find all the vessels, we parted with during the night of the 10th, safe at Madeira. Tuesday 13th.

Looking out for Porto Santo all day, and hope to reach Madeira to-morrow. Wrote letters to our dear friends in England, which we hope to despatch from that place. Wednesday 14th. Saw Porto Santo, at day light this morning, and Madeira soon after, with the two great rocks called the Desertas, lying to the south of that beautiful island. Landed about 1 o'clock at Funchall, and were received by a large party of gentlemen, who conducted us to the house of a Mr. Gordon. All day receiving visits &c. Thursday 15th. Saw all the public buildings — the college, now a barrack — the cathedral &c. — Called upon Mrs. Byrne and her daughter Mrs. Shuter (Miss Coote that was) she is married to an old physician of the island, and much against the wishes of Sir Eyre Coote ; afterwards, we went up the mountains, to the church of Our Lady ; this being the anniversary of its dedica cation, almost all the population of Madeira were assembled there, and crowds had slept the night before in the open fields &c. The road all the way, was quite like a bower, hung with grapes in immense clusters ; — in short, it was altogether a gay and novel scene.

Lady Char lotte Murray and I went up in palanquins, (an odd sort of conveyance, something like a hammock, or cot, slung on men's shoulders.) Sir George was the only gentleman who walked, and at night, in consequence, was sadly tired ; for he kept up all the day with the palanquin bearers, whose pace was a real trot. We attended the service in the church, and heard High Mass performed. — My Ayah, with several other penitents, walked up the body of the church, to the altar, on her knees, carrying two large can dles. — Afterwards, we took luncheon with a Mr. and Mrs. Waudrope, and then dined with Mr. Gordon, who has a house on the top of the mountain ; and then came down to Funchall at 1 1 o'clock. — A large party of gentlemen, but only a few ladies. Friday 16th. Up very early — walked out to execute commissions, purchase fruit &c. for the voyage.

Fortescue and Fraser meanwhile run ning about and enjoying themselves, amused with all they saw, and the novelty of every thing. — Went to the Convent of Santa Clara, and had a good deal of conversation with the nuns, through the grating. — There are 200. — This is the only convent on the island ; there is a monastery, with as many friars, I believe. — The cathedral is a large building, and is richly orna mented. — The late bishop died about three years ago, another has been appointed, but has not yet arrived. This afternoon, we all embarked again from the beach, and were carried to our boats, in the same manner that we had been brought on shore, upon men's shoulders, for the surf is so high it is impossible for the boats to approach near. — Captain Gordon, (who commands the Laurusti nus, and is our commodore,) weighed anchor, just as we did, and ran foul of the Baring, and the scene of confusion that ensued was most alarming ; however, we soon got clear of each other, and without suffering any injury, but the wind would not take us off the shore before dark, and we all had rather an anxious night. — To know, however, that others were awake, as well as myself, was a comfort to me, for I have scarce ly been conscious of sleeping since I left Eng land; certainly, the first night I got any rest was when we landed at Funchall, but still it was but a sort of disturbed sleep, and not at all refreshing.

This shakes my nerves sadly, but I hope time will enable me to forget all, and take my rest as usual. — I cannot leave Madeira, without saying how beautiful and refreshing the first sight of it was, nor with what regret we lost sight of its hospitable shore. — Funchall is built upon the slope of a hill, and was nearly washed into the sea, seven or eight years ago, with three or four hundred of its inhabitants, who were drowned by a water-spout, or cloud, bursting over it, which occasioned two great torrents to pour down from the mountain, through the city ; and the people assured us, the whole place would have been destroyed, had not the bishop arrested the progress of the waters, by holding up a gold cross. 17th. Still in sight of the island, but far enough from the shore for our safety — -a calm the whole day, and many sharks about the ship. — Sir George tried to read to me, but our thoughts were too much engaged, to allow us to attend to any book, and we passed the greatest part of the time in talking of our children, and many dear friends, in happy England. 18th.

Rather calm, but a light breeze sprung up, and we lost sight of Madeira before the evening. An awning was spread, and Mr. Col man performed divine service on the quarter deck. — Sir George and I distributed prayer books to the cadets, and all the soldiers and sailors who could read, and they seemed very much pleased with them. — After the service, we invited all the gentlemen and ladies on board to our cabin, and had a luncheon of grapes, cake, and malmsey — Captain Gordon came on board, and dined with us. Lat. 31.7, long. 18. 5. 19th. Looking out for enemies' vessels all day — our greatest danger seems to be off the Cape de Verd Islands. — In a few days, we hope to get clear of all these apprehensions, and then, I am sorry to say, our Commodore will leave us. — We have a brig in company, called the Sir William Burroughs, but she is so slow a sailor we shall soon lose sight of her, and then we shall be all alone in this immense ocean ; yet we ought not to regret the Sir William Burroughs, as there is an infectious complaint among the sailors who form her VOL. i. c crew, and we cannot have any communication.

Still, I should like to see some other living souls, as well as ourselves, on this great sea. — To-day the carpenter began to make a life-buoy — it consists of a round thick piece of wood, about three feet in diameter, with a pole run through the centre four feet below, and five or six feet above the board ; — ten or twelve pounds of lead are fastened to the bottom of the pole, to keep it upright in the water, and life-ropes, with shrouds, are fixed to the upper part of the pole and the board, for the person to lay hold of, and support themselves when they get upon the buoy. — It is to be hung over the stern, with a hatchet near, to cut it loose, in the event of any person falling over board, and I long to see it finished, and in its place. 20th. A good deal of wind all night, and during the day also ; and in the evening it was thought we had made more than two degrees of latitude. 21st. Lat. 26.58, long. 21.5.