Information relative to New Zealand, for the use of Colonists

Front matter

INFORMATION RELATIVE TO NEW-ZEALAND, FOR THE USE OF COLONISTS. LONDON: JOHN W. PARKER, WEST STRAND. M.DCCC.XXXIX. CONTENTS. CHAP. PAGE. Preface -------- _v I. Position and Extent of New-Zealand — Mountains — Face of the Country - 1 II. Rivers and Harbours _._.__ 4 III. Climate and Soil ------ 10 IV. Natural Productions — Timber, Flax, Corn, and other Vegetables. — Minerals. — Animal Kingdom — Birds, Fish --------- jg V. The Native Inhabitants — Their Numbers, Character, and Manners. — Their Capacity for Civilization and Disposition towards British Settlers — Opinions in Favour of the Introduction of a British Colony 35 Former Attempts to Colonize New-Zealand. — Existing VI. State of British Intercourse. — The New- Zealand Association of 1837- — The New-Zealand Land Com pany of 1839 — Its Objects and Proceedings. — Terms of Purchase of Lands in the First Settlement. — Principles of Colonization. — The First Colony 59 List of Publications relating to New-Zealand and Colonization -------80

Preface

. The following pages have been compiled with the view to convey, within a small compass, to the reader who may have paid little attention to the subject, such infor mation as may enable him to form a general notion of the advantages which the islands of New-Zealand now offer as an emigration-field. Our notices are necessarily brief, and often very imperfect ; but they may still suffice to afford the requisite preliminary knowledge to those who are desirous of making further inquiry for them selves. At the end of this Pamphlet is a List of Works relative to New-Zealand, and to the principles of Colo nization, which may usefully be consulted ; and to which the reader is referred for supplying the want of what we have not been able to make room for here. There is one point of some importance to colonists, to which we should gladly have adverted more explicitly, viz., the course intended to be pursued by the Queen's Government for the permanent establishment of British Law within the Settlements now forming in New-Zealand.

Early in the present Session, notice was given by a Member of Parliament connected with the Company, of a motion for leave to introduce a Bill to effect this object. At the request of the Secretary of State for the Colonies the motion was withdrawn, upon a distinct understanding that some measure tending to the accom plishment of the same desirable end, should be adopted on the part of the Crown, with the least practicable

PREFACE.

. VI delay. The Government has thus expressly recognised that the duty has devolved upon it of affording the protection of English laws and institutions to the intended Colony. Whilst we write, the Settlers are making preparations for their departure, and are on the point of transporting to the spot most favoured by nature in the southern hemisphere, the manners, — the arts, — the enterprise, — and, we may hope, also, the moral feelings, and public spirit, of their native land. The plantation of a Colony has been called a heroic work, and we believe systematic colonization to be emphatically the want of our age. But let none be seduced by the enthusiasm of noble thoughts to embark in an enterprise, of which he may not have maturely weighed the motives and probable results. The Colonist is deeply to blame if he does not make himself master of all the information which he can possibly acquire relative to the country which he is inclined to choose for his future home.

Let him carefully read, and well digest, all that concerns both the promised land, and the causes upon which the success, or failure, of Colonies is dependent. He will then discover that Colonization, in spite of much misunderstanding of its theory, and manifold abuses of its practice, is nevertheless in itself a means of adding largely to the happiness of our race, both in the present generation, and in those that are to follow. London, '.lih June, 1830. NEW-ZEALAND.

Chapter I

position and extent of new-zealand — mountains — face of the country. There is, probably, no part of the world which presents a more eligible field for the exertion of British enterprise, or a more pro mising career of usefulness to those who labour in the cause of human improvement, than the islands of New Zealand. The relative position of those islands, their soil, climate, rivers, harbours, and valuable natural productions, — all invite Englishmen to settle there. And it is obvious that great benefits may be conferred upon the natives, by the introduction among them of the habits and arts of an orderly and civilized British community. The New Zealand group consists of two large islands, called the Northern and Southern, — a smaller island, called Stewart's, to the extreme south, and several adjacent islets.

The group extends in length, from north to south, from the 34th to the 48th degrees of south latitude, and in breadth, from east to west, from the 166th to the 179th degree of east longitude. The extreme length exceeds eight hundred miles, and the average breadth, which is very variable, is about one hundred miles. The surface of the islands is estimated to contain 95,000 square-miles, or about sixty millions of acres, being a territory nearly as large as Great Britain, of which, after allowing for mountainous districts and water, it is believed that at least two-thirds are susceptible of beneficial cultivation. Even without assuming any extraordinary degree of fertility, New Zealand is thus capable of maintaining as large a population as the British isles, which, however, it far surpasses in respect of soil and climate.

This fine country was first seen by the Dutch navigator, Tasman, in 1642, but, as he never landed, supposing it to form part of a great southern continent, the honour of its discovery belongs to Captain Cook, who first proved it to consist of islands by circumnavigating the group, and surveying the coasts with such remarkable accuracy, that the surveys have been relied on up to the present day. Captain Cook was the first to appreciate the advantages derivable from the mere geographical position of New Zealand, which is the land nearest to the antipodes of England. The distance of Queen Char lotte's Sound, on the southern shore of Cook's Straits, from Sydney and Hobart Town, is, in round numbers, about 1200 miles, — from the New Hebrides and Friendly Islands, about the same, — from the Marquesas about 3000, — from the Sandwich Islands 3600, — from South Australia 1800, — and from China, or Valparaiso, about 5000 miles.

The length of the voyage from England is about the same as that to New South Wales, or South Australia. The westerly winds blowing steadily in those latitudes for about nine months in the it position and extent of new-zealand — year, the distance northward from Bass's Straits to Port Jackson is practically greater than from the same point of separation to Queen Charlotte's Sound. On return-voyages to Europe by way of Cape Horn, the whole distance between the places mentioned is gained by ships coming direct from New Zealand, over those from any part of Australia, which pass usually through Cook's Strait. In the not im probable event of the establishment of regular steam-communication across the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, with land-passage by railway over the Isthmus of Darien, it is easy to foresee that the voyage from England to New Zealand may be reduced at no distant day to the compass of a few weeks.

And the recent formation of a company for steam-navigation between the various Australian colonies appears likely to increase the immediate facilities of intercourse between New Zealand, and those settlements. Although we have not yet any minute geographical description of New Zealand, a mass of information has been collected, from which the natural features of the islands are, in a general sense, sufficiently known. A chain of lofty mountains intersects the whole of the southern, and a great part of the northern island. These mountains, like the Alps, are covered with perpetual snow ; some of them reach the height of more than 14,000 feet above the level of the sea, and their whole appearance is described as strikingly rich and grand. Their sides are clothed with forest-timber. Besides the chain which forms, as it were, the back-bone of the islands, there are outliers, and subordinate ranges of hills, covered for the most part with wood up to the verge of the continual snow, but in some instances clothed with fern.

Like most of the South Sea Islands, New Zealand appears to be of volcanic origin. In the interior there are several volcanoes in active operation, and a very high mountain on the west coast, called Taranakee, or Mount- Egmont, is also a volcano in an active state. There is, however, no reason to believe that the country is subject to earthquakes, there being no record of any within the memory of man. Many extinct volcanoes are visible, especially towards the north of the northern island, and there are hot springs rising some times to the temperature of boiling heat. " The tops and sides of these hills are studded with caves, deep, dark, and frightful. * * Their openings are overgrown with brushwood, so luxuriant as to reach from side to side, and cover the mouths of the cave. * * * We rolled large stones into one of the caves, which bounded from shelf to shelf, till the echo was lost in the distance, or distinguished in the last sounds by the splash into a spring of water, into which they had fallen at the bottom, and which discharges itself into the lake at the base of the hill. * * * * The whole of these caverns are of precisely the same description, and terminate in the same opening to the lake.

The diameter of the mouth of one which we measured, (and our observation told us they were nearly all of the same dimensions,) was nearly thirty-three feet. * * * * That there are in the bowels of the earth abundant materials for producing heat, is evident from the numerous hot springs, and springs of diluted sulphuric acid, which here and there bubble up within a MOUNTAINS FACE OP THE COUNTRY. 3 few miles from the base of these hills. * * * * Some of the springs on the margin of Roturoa* are higher than boiling heat, and most of them of a sufficient temperature to cook any kind of native food. A bituminous and sulphuric matter floats on the surface of these springs, and the water is all more or less tainted with it. There is one spring of a very remarkable quality ; it is to the touch as soft as oil, and without the use of soap, or any alkali except what the water itself contains, will cleanse the dirtiest garments, removing every particle of grease, however sullied they may be with it : the lake itself is quite cool, and in the middle of it is a rapid stream : the water also is truly excellent-f-."

" The soil," says Mr. Darwin, " is volcanic ; in several parts we passed over slaggy, and vesicular, lavas, and the form of a crater could clearly be distinguished in several of the neighbouring hills J." Another tourist in the northern island gives the following description of the country about the river Waitangi, and in the neighbourhood of Waimate, the inland mission-station: "As I went up the valley, I saw a continual succession of falls. There are a few huts on each side of the falls; the whole country is up and down hill, evidently volcanic, as you see continually extinct vol canoes, with a thin crust. People, that have chosen to go up inside, say they are like a wine-glass or funnel ; and in one or two of them there is water at the bottom. You can hear a stone rolled down to an immense distance if you put your head to the ground.

The whole country is a rich volcanic soil, composed of tufa, or pumice stones, and I should say, admirably adapted to the vine. The natives, in some places, where the stones seem most abundant, have cultivated them for ages. They pile up the stones in the same way as in the Isle of France, to get rid of them ; and I have seen a look-out put up in a Jcumera garden, upon a heap of tufa rock, six feet high, and a beautiful soil for vines or hops. I had to cross the Waitangi eight miles above the falls and I found it deep, — a very pretty country, — till at last I got Waimate §." These accounts remind us of the soil of Italy, the wines of which, such as the famous Lacryma-Christi grown near Vesuvius, as well as other wines of the south of Europe, would without doubt be easily produced in New Zealand.

There is also a striking resem blance between the entrance to the Bay of Naples, and that into Cook's Straits, With Mount- Egmont in the horizon. The scenery at the Bay of Islands (of which a panorama was last year exhibited in Leicester Square) is also highly picturesque. The mountains are less elevated, and the foliage somewhat finer, and more variegated, than in the southern districts. * An extensive lake, from twelve to fifteen miles across, near the centre of the northern island. .„„,,,„ „, ,.__ T _..,__ ,ooc t An account of New Zealand, by Rev, William Yate, London, 1835. i Narrative of the Surveying Voyages of H. M. S. Adventure and Beagle. London, 1839 vol. hi.; by Charles Darwin, Esq., naturalist to the expedition, chap. xx. tj'From a M.S. account of a residence in New Zealand, in 1834, communicated to the Company. B

Chapter II. Rivers And Harbours

In the mountains described, are the sources of numerous streams and rivers, flowing on either side to the sea. The rivers do not, of course, run to any great length. Their courses vary from one to two hundred miles. The waterfalls are not only picturesque, but im portant as affording mechanical power in all parts of the country. The falls of the Kerikeri, near the Bay of Islands, are of the height of ninety feet perpendicular. " The Waianiwaniwa, or ' waters of the rainbow,' a singularly beautiful mountain-stream, afterwards passes swiftly through a deep ravine for nearly the space of a mile, when it joins another stream, and rolls peaceably on for a few hundred yards; the united streams then fall over another rock about thirty feet high, and then rushing with great velocity till it reaches the Kerikeri Settlement, it dashes down a fall of ten feet, and grum blingly mingles itself with the waters of the Southern Ocean*."

The Wairoa, another stream, falls at least sixty feet; and the Hararu, and others in the northern island, are throughout, a succession of rapids. There are also some fine fresh-water streams in the southern island. The Knowsley, which discharges itself at the south-western extremity, is said to be a majestic river with numerous branches, one of which winds its course into a beautiful lagoon, and another may be navigated upwards of seventy miles, through a country which, for grandeur of scenery, is unri valled. About forty miles from the lagoon, in a northerly direction, is a fresh-water lake, of from sixty to seventy miles in circumference. In an easterly direction, about thirty miles from the latter is the splendid " Lake of Greenstones," so called from the presence of the green substance which will be afterwards noticed*]-.

The mouths of the rivers mostly form harbours, which in number, size, and depth of water, are not only unsurpassed, but appear to excel those of any country in the world, of similar extent. Commencing to the northward, the harbour of Wangaroa, lying twenty-five miles north-east of the Bay of Islands, is beautiful and capacious, the expanse being about two miles. The entrance is narrow, with deep water, and, within, the harbour is able to contain the largest fleet in anchorage from five to eleven fathoms, and com pletely sheltered from all winds. It is thickly wooded, and is the seat of a considerable native population. This harbour was surveyed by H. M. S. "Alligator" and " Buffalo," in 1834. The Bay of Islands, properly so called from the number of rocky islands with which it is studded, is a remarkably fine and capacious harbour, affording security for an almost unlimited number of vessels, in all weathers, and in all seasons of the year.

Ships enter with perfect ease and safety, the width of the mouth being eleven * Yate's New Zealand. r ilA°bT"rm" m New ZrmAlanyby T?ml*£ M'Dohkem.' R. N.; London, 1834; published in the transactions of the Geographical Society. ' r miles, and he at anchor at three different places; Tipuna, Kororatrika, and Kaua-Kaua. At Kororarika there is a small beach Ihe water is deep close to the shore. This is the spot which has hitherto been most frequented by Europeans, who occupy much of the surrounding land. A great number of whalers, and other shipping, are in the habit of touching here for supplies The total number of ships which entered the Bay of Islands in the year m\,WD 151' exclusive of sma11 craffc engaged in the coasting-trade. The Bay of Houraki, or the Frith of the Thames, contains within it several well protected harbours, with good anchorage.

Amongst these is a harbour called Kaihu, towards the head of the bay • a second well-sheltered harbour called Waitemata; and a third called Coromandel, or Waihu. The tide flows to the height of from eight to ten feet. There are several surveys of Houraki Bay : the latest is that by H. M. S. Buffalo, 1834. ' The Bay of Plenty, as it is termed, on the north-east coast is an immense roadstead, affording a great extent of anchorage, and comprising the harbour of Tauranga and others, resorted to for the shipment of flax aud other produce. Proceeding southward, Poverty Bay is remarkable as being tho first place where Captain Cook landed, accompanied by Banks and Solander on Sunday evening, the eighth of October, 1769, and is described by that great navigator as a safe anchorage. Hawke's Bay comprises an extensive line of coast and is sheltered from the north and north-east winds.

According to recent surveys the soundings show from six to twenty-seven fathoms water in the bay. Port Nicholson, at the southern extremity of the northern island, is one of the best harbours in the world. It is at least twelve miles long, and upon an average three miles wide. The shelter is perfect, and ships may enter, or leave the harbour, with all winds. The depth of water in the harbour is never less than from seven to eleven fathoms. The river Haritoua, which falls into the port, is said to bo navigable for nearly a hundred miles. The banks of the river rise to a considerable height, and are clothed with wood. This part of tho country is inhabited by the Kapiti tribe, one of whom, Naiti, the younger brother of a chief, has resided in England for two years, and has iately returned in the ship " Tory," in the service of the New Zealand Land Company.

On the west coast of the northern island, the prevalence of westerly winds seems to have made all tho ports more or less barharbours, but they are notwithstanding extremely valuable to navigation. Wangapai, for instance, near the north end, is described as a beautiful bay, narrow at the mouth, but running several miles inland, and surrounded by a fertile country. It has been very little visited by Europeans. The river and harbour of Hokianga, more to the southward, are better known, and are surrounded by a population of at least 5000 souls. The harbour may be considered as extending thirty miles inland, as the tide flows that distance ; and receives many small rivers, the principal of which are the Mangamuka, the Waima, the Widinake, and the Waihou. The banks of these are partially culti vated.

There is a bar at the entrance, the soundings over which at low water are from three to three and a half fathoms; but the tide rises twelve feet, and the soundings deepen to seventeen fathoms within the mouth of the harbour. Ships of five hundred tons burden and up wards, continually enter the river, and proceed as high up as Lieut. M'Donnell's dock-yard, thirty miles from the mouth. The lands adjoining the Hokianga, and its tributary streams are represented as a rich alluvial soil, with much fine timber. The waters abound with fish. It is on both sides of the Hokianga that are situated a part of the lands purchased by the New Zealand Land Company from Lieut. M'Donnell, and which will be hereafter adverted to. The following sailing directions, compiled by experienced nautical men, are extracted from a recent work* : — " Hokianga, a harbour on the western coast of New Zealand, is situated in latitude 35° 32' south, and longitude 173° 27' east, variation 14° 46' east.

It is 24 leagues s. e. of Cape Maria Van Dieman, and may be known by a sand-hill on the n. w. side, and a black head on the south, both moderately high. The land for five or six miles to the north is sand, not a black spot to be seen, and terminates with high black mountains. The land to the south is black and rocky. About six or seven leagues to the south there is a very high perpendicular cliff which overhangs the sea. This kept open will clear the whole coast of Hokianga, which is generally flat, but soundings regular, and may be approached by the lead in thirty fathoms water, at a convenient distance from the shore. In running in for the harbour, come no nearer the heads than three miles, or the high cliff above mentioned will open off the land until the s.e. cape of the harbour bears e.n.e. or e. by n. j n. at a distance of three miles from the heads; then steer in e.n.e. so as to pass the s.e. cape at half a cable's length, gradually hauling for the east side of the harbour, but be careful to avoid a rock lying two cables' length n.w. from the s.e. cape, with only three fathoms on it at high water.

After you pass the s.e. head, continue to haul over towards the east side of the harbour, until one cable's length from the shore, then steer up the river about n. by w. There are three fathoms on the bar at low water, and the tide flows, at the full and change of the moon, 9 hours 45 minutes; rises from ten to fourteen feet ; and runs from five to six knots. The bar should not be taken with an ebb tide." About seventy miles south of Hokianga is the noble harbour of Kaipara, thirty miles at least in length, and affording secure shelter against all winds. Three principal rivers discharge themselves into this harbour, — the Kaipara, from which it takes its name, — the Wairoa, — and the Otamatea. The distance between the two heads of the harbour is about six miles. At the entrance are two sand banks, between which is tl}e broad channel.

Between the north sand, and the land, is another narrower channel, but which may be taken with a leading wind, either in or out. The depth between the sands is such, that a ship of any tonnage, even a three decker, can work either in or out of the harbour at dead low water, The * Yate's New Zealand. breadth of the channel for shipping within the heads is about three miles. The following are recent directions for entering the harbour: — " Sailing into Kaipara, middle channel, go well to the southward of the south head; then steer in e.n.e. for a green patch on the sandy laud, until you bring the middle green patch on the northward n. by e. | e., steer in that course until you are clear of the north end of the inner sand bank, then steer direct for the inside point of the north head*." The banks of this fine harbour are generally so deep that ships may go close up to them ; and a ship of four hundred tons may proceed seventy miles up the Wairoa at half-flood.

The plains in this vicinity are peculiarly rich, and it is one of the principal districts of the Kauri, or pine forests. The New Zealand Land Com pany has made an extensive purchase in this quarter from Lieut. M'Donnell, and it is unquestionably one of the most eligible spots for settlement in the whole country. The harbour of Manukau, to the south of Kaipara, is also a fine, well-sheltered bay. There is a bar at the entrance, with deep water on each side; the southern channel is of the depth of from nine to twelve fathoms. A few miles below Manukau is a harbour at the mouth of the Waikato river, whose bar precludes the entrance of large ships. But it is believed, that by means of the river Awaroa, which reaches to within a mile of Manukau harbour, that harbour might be made the receptacle of the Waikato and its tributaries, and an outlet be thus obtained for the produce of the rich undulating country, through which the Waikato flows for about 150 miles, including the tract surrounding the inland lake Roturoa, one of the most valuable in the islands.

These are only a few of the harbours in the northern island. The harbours of Waingaroa, Aotea, Kawia, Mokou, and several others, are likely to become of more or less importance to navigation and commerce. The Southern Island also contains several magnificent harbours. Commencing with Cook's Straits, we find in succession, Blind Bay, Admiralty Bay, Port Hardy in D'Urville's Island, Port Gore, and Queen Charlotte's Sound, the last of which runs thirty miles inland. There is also, at the north-western extremity of the southern island, Cloudy Bay, one of the localities which appears to offer peculiar attractions to European settlers. This bay runs inland about fifteen miles, and its average width is about four miles. The land is high, and the water deep, and the soil is represented as very rich.

Cloudy Bay is one of the best stations of the black whale fishery. The natives are principally of the Kapiti tribe, as on the opposite coast, and among them a few British settlers have already fixed their residence. The shores of Cook's Straits appear to be a highly desirable emigration-field, not only on account of the uniform fertility of the soil, including much rich pasturage, but from the excellent anchorage to be found in its harbours, and from its position in the direct homeward voyage of many merchant-ships from Australia, and of vessels engaged in the whale fishery. * By the Master of the schooner " Fanny," in 1835, With respect to the south-east side of the southern island, but little is accurately known. Captain Cook describes Lookers-on Bay, as apparently a fine harbour. About a hundred miles further south ward is a safe and excellent harbour called Angaroa, in Banks's Peninsula, which is connected with the main land by a very narrow isthmus.

From a recent American survey, it appears that the soundings off the heads shoal from forty-five to thirty ; between the heads from fifteen to twelve; and in the numerous smaller bays inside the harbour, from seven to five*. Further southward on the eastern coast is Port Otango, a bar-harbour, but with seven fathoms low water inside. Knowsley Bay, at the southern extremity, forming the estuary of the river of that name already mentioned, and Dusky Bay, after rounding the south-west cape, are both fine, spacious harbours, with deep water, and containing within them many well sheltered coves, or smaller bays. Stewart's, or the southern island, also boasts a fine harbour, stated to be superior to that of Sydney, and commanding three safe entrances. The line of the western coast from Dusky Bay to Cape Farewell has not been thoroughly explored, but it is known to contain many inlets and creeks in which shipping may obtain shelter.

The above brief enumeration of some of the New Zealand harbours will suffice to point out these islands as the natural seat of a maritime population, and the natural centre of a vast maritime trade, which last would supply in its maturity, as in its progress it had engendered, the wants of millions at present strangers to the civilizing influence of commerce. On all sides, there are safe and convenient outlets for the shipment of produce, brought by water carriage from the interior. Whether we look at Port Nicholson, and Cloud}' Bay, in the centre, — to the Bay of Islands on the north cast coast, — or to Kaipara harbour on the west, we are warranted in saying that ports of greater security and convenience are not to be found in the world. In this respect, New Zealand has greatly the advantage over both South Australia, and New South Wales.

Then, it is important to bear in mind that New Zealand lies in the heart of the southern whale fisheries*!* ; and that so serviceable are these islands to that now extensive and rapidly growing branch of industry, as a place for refitting and obtaining provisions, and also for hiring native hands as sailors and whalers, that, what with the foreign demand for New Zealand potatoes, wheat, flax, * British Colonization of New Zealand. London, Parker, 1837. t The southern whale fishery consists of three distinct branches; first, that of the sper maceti whale; second, that of the common black whale of the southern seas; and third, that of the sea elephant, or southern walrus. The spermaceti, and black whale, both frequent the coasts of New Zealand. An interesting statement of the extent to which the southern whale fishery has been carried on from the year 1800 to 1834, will be sound in the Supplement to U'Culloch's Commercial Dictionary, (December, 1836.)